excellent video. i've been looking for such a video for two years. I have an old wooden stock that I really don't know if it would be 90 degrees. it looks like it was done by hand. buying stacks of tools would be wasteful I suppose if I got it wrong. your articles were also great. thanks. I'll try and borrow a few tools from members at my club and see what I come up with. BTW, the stock was covered in a varnish that was water damaged, it was a bit of a mess and took ages to dry out. I used a cabinet scraper I made from a paint scraper. that worked ok. i then used grist at lower to higher grade to remove scratches. this is a very slow process. And power tools would jut mess it up. again, this was a grat video and the articles were also FAB.
Also, I'm not after perfection just a really nice repair / recutting job. This will be a one off so I'm going to take a slow approach. It seems the stock has changed shape due to the water exposure. I want to see if there is a balance issue or maybe this can be ignored. Humans can adapt to anything and I'm not looking for Olympic qualification, just a nice farm tool for feral pest control. your tips are very handy.
Hey Kurt, I have a unissued fiberglass stock. The checkering is flattened on one side of the forend. I was thinking of freshing the checkering. Even building up the surface with thin coat of epoxy before recutting. Your thoughts?
I just fitted a kickeez on a old Remington 1100 28ga, not really an amazing piece of wood, is it possible to re checker that pressed in checkering, I’ve never done checkering, looks like I just have to chase it out but it doesn’t have continuous lines if that makes sense Thanks -Aaron
You absolutely could recut the checkering and make it look great! However, that is a tough first recheckering job because they aren't continuous your tool will want to jump out of the pattern. Definitely doable though.
I used a paint stripper when stripping the finish and a toothbrush. However, if you are just recheckering you do not need to strip the finish, it would actually be much easier to keep straight lines if you left it on.
Nice featherweight stock. You go good work. Thanks for the video!
excellent video. i've been looking for such a video for two years. I have an old wooden stock that I really don't know if it would be 90 degrees. it looks like it was done by hand. buying stacks of tools would be wasteful I suppose if I got it wrong. your articles were also great. thanks. I'll try and borrow a few tools from members at my club and see what I come up with. BTW, the stock was covered in a varnish that was water damaged, it was a bit of a mess and took ages to dry out. I used a cabinet scraper I made from a paint scraper. that worked ok. i then used grist at lower to higher grade to remove scratches. this is a very slow process. And power tools would jut mess it up. again, this was a grat video and the articles were also FAB.
Oi look
Also, I'm not after perfection just a really nice repair / recutting job. This will be a one off so I'm going to take a slow approach. It seems the stock has changed shape due to the water exposure. I want to see if there is a balance issue or maybe this can be ignored. Humans can adapt to anything and I'm not looking for Olympic qualification, just a nice farm tool for feral pest control. your tips are very handy.
Hey Kurt, I have a unissued fiberglass stock. The checkering is flattened on one side of the forend. I was thinking of freshing the checkering. Even building up the surface with thin coat of epoxy before recutting. Your thoughts?
I am curious what type of finish you use and how to apply it?
I just fitted a kickeez on a old Remington 1100 28ga, not really an amazing piece of wood, is it possible to re checker that pressed in checkering, I’ve never done checkering, looks like I just have to chase it out but it doesn’t have continuous lines if that makes sense
Thanks
-Aaron
You absolutely could recut the checkering and make it look great! However, that is a tough first recheckering job because they aren't continuous your tool will want to jump out of the pattern. Definitely doable though.
How do you strip the old varnish/finish off of the old checkering?
I used a paint stripper when stripping the finish and a toothbrush. However, if you are just recheckering you do not need to strip the finish, it would actually be much easier to keep straight lines if you left it on.
@@kurtthegunsmithThank you for the advice.
Ever try any power checkering?? I made a long form video showing some checkering practice with the Ullman Titan and some hand tools.
I just picked a titan a month ago! Haven’t had much time behind it yet but plan learn it more this spring/summer!
Awesome