I own an 84 500sel and you've constantly been an inspiration to me .I'm always looking forward to your new videos . It has helped me with my m117 engine significantly . Keep making history and documenting this !
Thank you Richie. I’m so happy I decided to post this journey on TH-cam. I probably would have quit already if it wasn’t for people like yourself. I can’t wait for this to all come together.
I know this is an older video, but just an FYI, the permatex grit doesn't actually have different size grits in it. It starts as a large grit, and as you are grinding the valve, the grit breaks down to smaller and smaller particles to get the fine finish. It works great.
I have used the Permatex brand many years ago (in the 70’s) and I too was happy with the results. But now I really like the Goodson compound. According to the Permatex package there are 4 grit sizes starting at 120 grit, then 150, 180 and finally 220 grit th-cam.com/video/2S8I5tb0TGE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IyRD9qzLTNgfwHVc&t=28m30s
It´s really a professional work, all your steps to a overhauled engine!!! In my 87 560SL I have to do the same works because my cylinder head gasket has a leakage. The best is to remove the whole engine. I think, a new wiring harness in the engine room could solve some problems in the future. Here in Germany you don´t find a good workshop for vintage mercedes. Some good workshops have a lot of customer and you wait months and months. Also the delivery time of parts will be a problem. I wish you a good progress and a sucessful start of your "new" engine Martin
A link to FCPEuro is in the description, but they are currently out of stock. Here’s a link for the TRW 1300530101 intake valve for the 230 amzn.to/3c403Ka if you need exhaust valves see eBay.
I've heard of people using torque plates when machining seats, as they say leakage could change when heads are torqued down so it resembles a bolted up head for best seal, now I wonder if you were to use this same setup but with heads bolted down with a torqueplate, lap them and put a vacuum on them, might even get that last but of performance but who knows maybe there wouldn't be much of a difference if any.
If you’re cutting new seats then I would leave that up to a good machinist if you can find one. My seats & guides measured like new and they tested good before lapping so no machining was necessary. These days many builders won’t lap the valves because machining is much more precise than in days past and lapping takes too much time for a shop to make money. That said, I would still do a light lapping with a fine compound just to smooth out any imperfections. I’m only cleaning things up and lapping for a visual reference. If you really want to cut the valves & seats right I would think you would need to heat the head up to operating temperature and then cut the valves & seats. If your valves & seats are well cut, lapping with a fine paste will only make it better in my opinion.
@@TonyLiveTV cool, thanks for the tip, I'm new to this and learning as I go, I bought a Chevy SUV with a 5.7 vortec, only 65000 km on rebuilt motor, found out my lack of power and rough idle was from valves bieng preloaded way to much letting the valves hang open, I set them back for best performance, unfortunately it got worse and thought maybe I burned a valve, but a disassembly shows that none of the valves are burnt but some pitting and a dark look to the exhaust valve faces, guides feel new, I also did a water test and both heads had some exhaust valves leaking as well as a few intake valves, I started lapping them with a drill but maybe that wasn't a good idea, now I'm wondering if I should get the seats cut and valves re grinded, then do some.light lapping, either way I will pickup some machinest blue layout fluid and check to see if I really need them recut or not, thanks for the helpful video really pointed me in the right direction I've been struggling stressed out trying to figure this out.
@@TonyLiveTVgrinding seats instead of cutting seats is a much nicer & truer way to finish seats. Alot of shops do lap valves in after they cut the seats becouse its usually not as good as grinding with stones.
Why are you measuring in mm? I guess I'll do the math. For those that want to know what his measurements are take his numbers & devide them by 25.4. It will give you it in inches. His margin at 1.5mm ÷ 25.4=.059
@@jesseduke694 thanks for your question. It’s simple really. It’s because this is a German vehicle with a German manual that does not provide conversions. I am working with reference numbers provided by the manual. I would also be shamed by the R107 community for converting. Why convert when the manual tells you exactly what you want? Make one mistake in a conversion and it can be very costly on these vehicles. If I were working on a Ford or Chevy I would be telling my viewers what’s in the manual and I won’t be converting it mm.
![Save Money And Lap Your Own Valves! [Measured Results]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TPCrR-R7cTY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Save Money And Lap Your Own Valves! [Measured Results]](/img/tr.png)
I own an 84 500sel and you've constantly been an inspiration to me .I'm always looking forward to your new videos . It has helped me with my m117 engine significantly . Keep making history and documenting this !
Thank you Richie. I’m so happy I decided to post this journey on TH-cam. I probably would have quit already if it wasn’t for people like yourself. I can’t wait for this to all come together.
keep going Tony
I know this is an older video, but just an FYI, the permatex grit doesn't actually have different size grits in it. It starts as a large grit, and as you are grinding the valve, the grit breaks down to smaller and smaller particles to get the fine finish. It works great.
I have used the Permatex brand many years ago (in the 70’s) and I too was happy with the results. But now I really like the Goodson compound. According to the Permatex package there are 4 grit sizes starting at 120 grit, then 150, 180 and finally 220 grit th-cam.com/video/2S8I5tb0TGE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IyRD9qzLTNgfwHVc&t=28m30s
It´s really a professional work, all your steps to a overhauled engine!!! In my 87 560SL I have to do the same works because my cylinder head gasket has a leakage. The best is to remove the whole engine. I think, a new wiring harness in the engine room could solve some problems in the future.
Here in Germany you don´t find a good workshop for vintage mercedes. Some good workshops have a lot of customer and you wait months and months. Also the delivery time of parts will be a problem.
I wish you a good progress and a sucessful start of your "new" engine
Martin
Always professional
#valvelapping like a pro
#valveleakdownstandard
I have a 69 Mercedes 230 the shop I had look over it said I have leaky valves at #6 do you know where I could order them?
A link to FCPEuro is in the description, but they are currently out of stock. Here’s a link for the TRW 1300530101 intake valve for the 230 amzn.to/3c403Ka if you need exhaust valves see eBay.
I've heard of people using torque plates when machining seats, as they say leakage could change when heads are torqued down so it resembles a bolted up head for best seal, now I wonder if you were to use this same setup but with heads bolted down with a torqueplate, lap them and put a vacuum on them, might even get that last but of performance but who knows maybe there wouldn't be much of a difference if any.
If you’re cutting new seats then I would leave that up to a good machinist if you can find one. My seats & guides measured like new and they tested good before lapping so no machining was necessary. These days many builders won’t lap the valves because machining is much more precise than in days past and lapping takes too much time for a shop to make money. That said, I would still do a light lapping with a fine compound just to smooth out any imperfections. I’m only cleaning things up and lapping for a visual reference. If you really want to cut the valves & seats right I would think you would need to heat the head up to operating temperature and then cut the valves & seats. If your valves & seats are well cut, lapping with a fine paste will only make it better in my opinion.
@@TonyLiveTV cool, thanks for the tip, I'm new to this and learning as I go, I bought a Chevy SUV with a 5.7 vortec, only 65000 km on rebuilt motor, found out my lack of power and rough idle was from valves bieng preloaded way to much letting the valves hang open, I set them back for best performance, unfortunately it got worse and thought maybe I burned a valve, but a disassembly shows that none of the valves are burnt but some pitting and a dark look to the exhaust valve faces, guides feel new, I also did a water test and both heads had some exhaust valves leaking as well as a few intake valves, I started lapping them with a drill but maybe that wasn't a good idea, now I'm wondering if I should get the seats cut and valves re grinded, then do some.light lapping, either way I will pickup some machinest blue layout fluid and check to see if I really need them recut or not, thanks for the helpful video really pointed me in the right direction I've been struggling stressed out trying to figure this out.
@@dawsonjorgensen3521 have you seen my video on measuring valves & valve stems? th-cam.com/video/up6IxsePvLk/w-d-xo.html
@@TonyLiveTV I haven't but I will check it out
@@TonyLiveTVgrinding seats instead of cutting seats is a much nicer & truer way to finish seats. Alot of shops do lap valves in after they cut the seats becouse its usually not as good as grinding with stones.
Why are you measuring in mm? I guess I'll do the math. For those that want to know what his measurements are take his numbers & devide them by 25.4. It will give you it in inches. His margin at 1.5mm ÷ 25.4=.059
@@jesseduke694 thanks for your question. It’s simple really. It’s because this is a German vehicle with a German manual that does not provide conversions. I am working with reference numbers provided by the manual. I would also be shamed by the R107 community for converting. Why convert when the manual tells you exactly what you want? Make one mistake in a conversion and it can be very costly on these vehicles. If I were working on a Ford or Chevy I would be telling my viewers what’s in the manual and I won’t be converting it mm.
@TonyLiveTV I gathered that after watching for a bit.