Hello Sir John. I am attempting this job on a 2010 cx9. I have to mention the first reason I even clicked on your video is because of our great flag and her glory. I’m about 5 mins into this video and just wanted to say hello and thank you for what seems to be the #1 video for this. Let’s go!
One of the best series of videos out there on this issue. John is thorough, methodical, conservative and the series is easy to watch and understand. Made my pump/chain replacement go really smoothly. John even went by the Ford dealer when I could not find the bolts he recommended for the new chain guide. Super nice of you John! I watched each episode two to three times before actually doing it, and it really made things go well. In case you need them, the Mazda part number for the camshaft pulley bolts is ZZJ112428A. No dealer will have them, they are in the distribution warehouse, so expect two to three days for them to arrive at your dealer. For the chain guide, you can use one each 6mm*45mm, and one each 6mm*30mm, both with 1.0 pitch. I picked up hex washer head in grade 8.9 which is what you need. Regular hex head bolts will be very difficult as they have larger heads. Pay attention to John when he tells you to replace spark plugs, coils, and other items, and you will understand why when it takes you four hours just to get to the back plugs. You should also plan to change the oil after about 20-25 miles just to get residual gunk out of the oil pan. I left the pan plug out and then did a final flush with two quarts of oil before sealing it up. As John notes that power steering pump is a real bugger. But if you don't want to spend $3500 at a dealer, this is the series to watch and John is the man that can fix anything!! Thanks John!
I'm no stranger to turning a wrench but I got to tell you these videos are fantastic. I have enough experience to do this job with just a book, but you're probably saving me a good full day of figuring out the best way to do it myself. Brilliant! Thank you!
Starting a new job on Tuesday I really wanted and worked hard to get and my 2010 cx-9 was losing coolant, had a noise of the timing chain hitting metal on cold start and was getting terrible mileage. I have three days to get this done so I can get to my job everyday and focus on my work. Don't have $3,000 to get this done. So far I'm following right along with you thanks to the time and effort you put into these videos. You're a good man, John. I owe you a debt of gratitude.
Update from my post of two weeks ago. I just buttoned everything up and started the car. It ran like crap until I remembered to plug in fuel injectors for 4 5 and 6. And then it was perfect! Can't thank you enough for these videos. For the record, I'm never changing a water pump again on a duratec motor. HA! HA!
Great video buddy. It will keep many cars out of the scrapyard. You’ve got the most conservative parts replacement mentality I’ve seen. I had only my water pump replaced at 140k. The car is at 225k miles. I’ve got some oil leaks in the rms area but that’s all.
Good day John, may you please send me the link where to buy all the parts e.g. (water pump, seals, timing chains, sprocket etc.) and also the special tools e.g. dual overhead cam brackets holder that fits 3.7 Li engine and the flat wrecker bar and so on. Thanks
Question fine some reason. I can't get the valve cover. On the front. I counted 9 bolts all of them off and still the cover won't come off. Any suggestions. Please 🙏🙏🙏
You reference longer and shorter bolts needed for the updated timing chain guide. I have not been able to find additional information on these. Would you be able to give me additional direction? And your videos are absolutely amazing!
Hello and thanks for these videos. I plan on tackling this job in the next few months. 2013 CX-9 with 165k km and hoping to keep it for 3-4 years more. I was thinking about changing the alternator since the belt would be off and it would be easier to take it off at the same time but I don’t have any indication on the failure rate of the alternator. What would you suggest? I don’t want to have an alternator failure in 1-2 years after this kind of job!
Everything is beautiful shown. Isn't it worth measuring the valve clearance? How's so much work done? glasses pushers can be replaced. Maybe a few pieces do not have good play, but it requires unscrewing the shaft.
Measured valve clearance. There should be 0.30mm-0.40mm on the exhaust shaft. Mine is 0.33 and 0.35mm. I left it. I changed the water pump and timing belt. The pump leaked into the motor but all is well. Pump bearing seized.
Thanks for the great video. You mention a belt tool for installing the power steering belt, but there isn't a link for this tool. Can you advise on what is the correct tool for this process.
This is the one I used. I used this with a zip tie. www.amazon.com/Drake-Off-Road-Stretch-Installer/dp/B00AC60VEC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=19DRV1T2IXFY7&keywords=Mazda+CX-9+belt+tool&qid=1654007636&sprefix=mazda+cx-9+belt+tool%2Caps%2C119&sr=8-1
My mazda cx9 2008 300,000 km mileage. The route is 4 km. The check engine light comes on. It stops for 15 minutes. I'm moving on. Everything works fine, engine shows no temperature increase. Another 2km I hear the cooling fan, after a while again. I turn off the engine, I don't know what's going on. The temperature does not exceed 90⁰C. The engine ran completely silent. There is no fluid under the hood. Mud on the cork. The oil dipstick shows 2-3 liters above the good condition of the oil. The car is at the mechanic now. In a few days I will want to change the water pump and timing belt. Clean the oil pan and valve covers. 2 oil changes and engine flush. I hope I didn't damage the engine. I was driving very slowly. What do you think? Any chance the engine isn't dead?
@@JohnCanFixAnything Measured valve clearance. There should be 0.30mm-0.40mm on the exhaust shaft. Mine is 0.33 and 0.35mm. I left it. I changed the water pump and timing belt. The pump leaked into the motor but all is well. Pump bearing seized.
Hi John, really appreciate you making this video. It's extremely helpful. Quick question... I have a 2013 Mazda CX-9 and there is coolant mixing with the oil. The car only has 58,000 miles so I find it unlikely that it would be the water pump, and I'm thinking it's more likely to be a gasket leak or something like that. My questions for you; - What other issues could it be besides head gasket or water pump? As far as I know those are the only ways oil and coolant can mix. - Is there a way to diagnose a bad water pump vs head gasket leak? As far as I know the symptoms of both are identical.
@@JohnCanFixAnything Awesome. Thanks for the quick response. Thanks again for making these videos, they're well-made and very helpful. Have a good weekend.
@@rje613 I have a 2010 Cx-9 that did the same thing. There is a class action lawsuit filed against Mazda because they knew the water pumps were fouling out causing catastrophic engine failure. It was filed in March 2022 in California. When it happened to me, I was driving on a very busy fast interstate, and it nearly caused a huge accident. I lost all power, steering, and brakes.
@@melindawillis7033 Exactly. I did some research into the law suit when doing this repair and although it’s still ongoing I don’t know if much is going to come of it for quite some time. I believe they’re trying to get a country-wide engine recall which would likely be one of the biggest recalls in history, replacing hundreds of thousands of engines for free. I’d like to think it’ll happen but although I’m sure they’ll succeed eventually, I don’t know if it’ll be anytime soon.
I have a 2010 Mazda cx-9. are these parts the same? I looked up the timing kit from Autozone and its over $400 and the water pump is $111. Are these the same just over priced or is the 2010 3.7 different. I really hope I can do this job. The hardest timing kit I have ever done was a dual cam Toyota rav4 took 8 hours. Do you guys think this job compares to that? Thanks for any advice you can give.
@@JohnCanFixAnything yeah i used your link and it says it does not fit the 2010 for some reason but Autozone shows the same part number for the dayco part for 2009 and 2010 lol. thanks John I will be tackling this task on Friday.
Hello John, Thank you for your comprehensive videos and parts list. Would you recommend replacing the cam sensors since you are working in this area for this project. had these sensors fail on other vehicles in the 100k to 150k range. Your thoughts.
So I'm stuck. I marked the balance but the paint rubbed off. Is the dot on the front of the pulley there to line up with the sprocket timing mark? There are also a set of holes drilled in the front of the balancer. How do I properly align it. Also, how do i install the seal with the cover on. Can i put it on the back of the balancer and push it in or should i use a special tool.
It doesn't matter on the balancer. I marked mine out of habit. It is not conterbalanced so you are fine. I actually brushed mine down and painted it. I don't know what the purpose of the holes are in the balancer. I used a cheap seal tool from Harbor freight. Well worth the money and you will use it several times. Especially if you change out valve cover seals.
I did the first one at 100,000 and it was routine maintenance. The second one I did because I felt the water pump was starting to fail and it turned out to be true. The inner seal was already gone.
@@JohnCanFixAnything how did you know the water pump is going to fail? We also have a CX9 but from 2011 and here in Europe, you cannot get proper informations because they only say what Mazda says and they say "for Europe all is fine, no problems with transfer case, nor water pump blabla"...
Hi John. This is a great video that is really beneficial for us. I owe a 2015 CX9 with over 110K miles. When do you think I should have this maintenance done?
the only thing i can say is holy shit mine is a 2010 cx9 with 94,000 miles on it the dealer wants 3,000 to do it and the car book value says 2,800 but to me its worth more i have no problems with it I'm the only owner i just wanted to do it before anything horrible happens
Hi John, I started hearing rattling noises from my engine (2010 cx-9 with 144K miles). The oil was not frothy (I use synthetic), the heater still worked so I guess water is still circulating. There coolant was low (down to the min line). Coolant did not look oily or dirty. So I think the water pump had gone bad. Is it still worthwhile to get the water pump replaced? I am guessing that a mechanic would charge me $2k for this job after looking at the amount of work involved in your video. I dont have a problem spending the $2k however Im wondering if the little quanity of coolant that has mixed with the engine oil has already destroyed something else? The engine is running smooth. No codes (yet). No loss of power. Im not driving the car anymore though. What do you think? ps. I used your other video to replace the fuel injectors just 6 months ago. Thanks for that!
Hey man thank you for everything In here. I've hit a little snag. Has come time to turn the engine over to line up the timing and the engine won't turn. Been putting a lot of pressure on it and definitely feel like it's too much. Worried about breaking that bolt off in there. Any suggestions?
If the engine will not turn over then do not force it. You should be able to turn it over with a breaker bar a minimal pressure. This can be a big deal and you can damage the valve if you try too hard. If the crank and cam are out of sync the valves can interfere. You can get everything lined back up by setting the crank in a position where all the pistons are down. 90 degrees off of TDC works for this. If you can’t turn it in one direction try the other. Then and only then can you turn the camshaft to get it into timing position. After the cam is set, you can bring the number one piston up to TDC by turning the crank. If you don’t have a lot of experience working with overhead camshaft engines, it’s easy to get into trouble. It may be best to get professional help by contacting a mechanic and having someone look it over and help you figure out what to do.
I've done worse jobs than this but this one looks like a doozy. I just drained the oil in my 2010 cx9 and noticed a little water in the oil. Coolant level is still up there but I know its time to do it. The car has 130,000 miles on it. I didn't even bother putting the new oil in the car because I don't want to risk driving it like this. Other than this, and some routine brakes etc, this car has been a really good car and still drives like its new. I'm dreading it a little because I just wasn't motivated to do it just yet but I knew I was gonna have to do it. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for putting these videos up, I already know it's gonna save me a lot of aggravation.
I’ve talked to the dealer and they mentioned Mazda CX-9’s 2012-2016 use a 37 gauge chain vs a 35 gauge chain in the older models so changing the water pump is not necessary until 250,000 miles. Is this true. I have a 2013 Mazda CX-9 with 126k miles and have never changed it. Should I?
You will not find a factory replacement schedule for any car or truck. You will only find one for scheduled maintenance. When to change the oil, filters, brakes, etc. I base my replacement miles by the parts manufacturers estimates. They will give you the best information on when to replace a part, not the dealers or the factory. Common sense tells me parts wear out on any engine. The chain may very well be capable of 250,000 but what about the guides(which are plastic) or the tensioners or the water pump itself? What kind of oil was used, how frequent were the oil changes, what conditions were being driven in. I don't know how a dealer could say that to anyone in good faith. No vehicle goes with out some kind of engine work well before 250,000 miles.
Hi, thanks for your very helpful video! I'm about to do this job, do you think it's a good idea to also replace the head gaskets while doing this timing job? How long should the head gaskets last on the 3.5? Thanks so much!
Definitely they could be fine but why take the chance? Cheap to replace. Head gaskets can go for many years without failure. My vehicle had a lot of miles on it. I changed them as a precaution.
Hey, John. My son has a 2012 Mazda CX 9. The water pump seem to failed and water got to the engine. My question is, did it damaged the engine? Or replacing the water pump and its components and changing the oil would be ok. Would the engine run ok?
Sorry for the late reply. It all depends on how quickly it was caught. The oil breaks down fairly quickly when water enters into the oil pan. With synthetic oil your chances are much better that all is well. You will have to weight the price of parts and make your decision based on the vehicle worth. A 2012 is still a pretty good ride being only 7 years old.
The biggest special is the crank cam tool holding set. They were about $30.00 and tool rental places usually don't stock them. Don't skimp on a good torque wrench. A set of swivel sockets would be good as well. Especially for that darn power steering pump. A lighted mirror will help as well.
Wow! I am scheduled to buy a 2010 CX-9 tomorrow with 92000k miles. I am now going to ask the owner if the water pump has been replaced before I buy the CX-9. That is, if I buy it at all! I am about to change my mind on the sale. What does it cost to do a routine water pump change? Do you recommend not getting a 2010 CX-9 because of the water pump 'flaw'? .
AeroRamer I like them up to 2014. Changing the water pump is the same as replacing the timing chain. It sets right there in the middle. I would never change the pump without doing all the guided, chains, and tensioners. I would say $1200 to $1500
@@JohnCanFixAnything Thanks for the info. I previously negotiated the price down to the ‘clean trade-in’ value per the Black Book report. But now I will have to offer at least 75% less (of the repair cost) if I want to buy it. I will not buy a car to pay for someone else’s repair problems. At least not in full. And definitely not when they want retail price. That will put you over retail if you have to add $1-2k more for just one repair. I am mechanically inclined. I can do minor stuff and I am sure I could do this job. But no, I would not want to tackle this job. No need to venture unless I get a really discounted car price. I am going to contact a Mazda dealer to run the VIN and check if this has been done already and when. The owner can profit and relief himself from future trouble by selling to someone else not familiar with this.
Thank you for confirming. This video still gives me some confidence to consider DIY. For sure, it has helped me in terms of getting quotes from local mechanics. To share with your audience, I received one quote of around $6k from a local mechanic who was not familiar with this issue and another quote of $4560, from a mechanic who had done this work in the past. I’m on the west coast. Prices have definitely increased during the past 3-4 years.
I did it because of the mileage I had on the vehicle and I was already there to do everything else. It seemed logical not to take any chances that far along in the rebuild.
Hello John, Great detail and precise work! We all appreciate the time you took to make these videos. I have a question about timing with my Mazda CX-9 and maybe you can help... I have codes :P0011, P0016 & P0021. Engine has knocking noise on the top.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
Thanks again John for this video. I don't think I would have been able to complete this task without the added information in this video. Everything is put back together and working great although there is a small oil leak from one of the ocv seals that I think was installed wrong but other than that everything is Excellent thanks again.
I have a rattle coming from crank pulley area under a load at a certain rpm. Worse when ac is on.. I'm pretty sure it's the chain. I started with replacing serpentine pulley.. rattle still there. And keeps getting worse... I shut the car down before the chain breaks. I'm just going to do this. As I have 120k anyways... But what a dang headache this seems... stupid ford engineering I sure rather work on my Toyotas... after this one I have a Mazda cx7 2.3 I have too work on. I'm thinking I will have to do the same thing. Well the cam tool work on a 2.3 turbo?
I am flattered but I have a one-car garage and my lovely wife would kill me for bringing in another project from someone outside. I do the videos because I like to help people and no one seems to take the time to give real details. Regards, John
@@JohnCanFixAnything I think FordTechMakuloco said $2200. I have an '09 Taurus with 3.5L nearing 150k. It has had all the dealer maintenance on schedule. Should I schedule this procedure soon before the internal water pump fails?
Update: I'm only driving around 10k'yr so I flushed the coolant, drained and filled the tranny fluid, and now running synthetic oil. I love the old car but I have higher priorities.
@@JohnCanFixAnything water pump failed at 83,272 miles. Engine quit when we were taking it to the dealer. Milkshake on the dipstick. We bought it certified pre owned with 40,000 miles. Waiting to hear from the dealer today if Mazda will cover the engine being replaced. Supposed to be a 7 year 100,000 mile warranty.
Just a heads up, I ordered the parts recommended here, I of course could have just recieved a bad part but mine leaks horribly after having a mechanic install the parts I ordered (hes a former Ford tech so he's done more than a few of these) I would recommend ordering the part from Mazda, part number CY02-15-010D, they are about $100. I wish I had spent the extra the first time, now I have to pay a lot to have the faulty pump mentioned here pulled and replaced.
@@JohnCanFixAnything stuff happens, just wish it wasnt to me at this time, this vehicle is causing a lot of stress in my life since I now have to pay another 1000+ to do the job again.
$2800 from my newrest mazda dealer! Nope!!! What a stupid place to put a water pump, Ford should be ashamed!! Brings new meaning to found on road dead!
Hello Sir John. I am attempting this job on a 2010 cx9. I have to mention the first reason I even clicked on your video is because of our great flag and her glory. I’m about 5 mins into this video and just wanted to say hello and thank you for what seems to be the #1 video for this. Let’s go!
One of the best series of videos out there on this issue. John is thorough, methodical, conservative and the series is easy to watch and understand. Made my pump/chain replacement go really smoothly. John even went by the Ford dealer when I could not find the bolts he recommended for the new chain guide. Super nice of you John! I watched each episode two to three times before actually doing it, and it really made things go well. In case you need them, the Mazda part number for the camshaft pulley bolts is ZZJ112428A. No dealer will have them, they are in the distribution warehouse, so expect two to three days for them to arrive at your dealer. For the chain guide, you can use one each 6mm*45mm, and one each 6mm*30mm, both with 1.0 pitch. I picked up hex washer head in grade 8.9 which is what you need. Regular hex head bolts will be very difficult as they have larger heads. Pay attention to John when he tells you to replace spark plugs, coils, and other items, and you will understand why when it takes you four hours just to get to the back plugs. You should also plan to change the oil after about 20-25 miles just to get residual gunk out of the oil pan. I left the pan plug out and then did a final flush with two quarts of oil before sealing it up. As John notes that power steering pump is a real bugger. But if you don't want to spend $3500 at a dealer, this is the series to watch and John is the man that can fix anything!! Thanks John!
Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks John!!
You are a mechanic. Professional or not, it doesn't matter. But legit!
I'm no stranger to turning a wrench but I got to tell you these videos are fantastic.
I have enough experience to do this job with just a book, but you're probably saving me a good full day of figuring out the best way to do it myself. Brilliant! Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words.
Starting a new job on Tuesday I really wanted and worked hard to get and my 2010 cx-9 was losing coolant, had a noise of the timing chain hitting metal on cold start and was getting terrible mileage. I have three days to get this done so I can get to my job everyday and focus on my work. Don't have $3,000 to get this done. So far I'm following right along with you thanks to the time and effort you put into these videos. You're a good man, John. I owe you a debt of gratitude.
Message like this are why I make the videos. Thank yo so much for your support and good luck with the new job.
Update from my post of two weeks ago. I just buttoned everything up and started the car. It ran like crap until I remembered to plug in fuel injectors for 4 5 and 6. And then it was perfect! Can't thank you enough for these videos. For the record, I'm never changing a water pump again on a duratec motor. HA! HA!
You are very welcome.
I just bought a Mazda CX-9, so I subscribed to your channel. I will watch all your videos about this vehicle.
Great video buddy. It will keep many cars out of the scrapyard.
You’ve got the most conservative parts replacement mentality I’ve seen. I had only my water pump replaced at 140k. The car is at 225k miles. I’ve got some oil leaks in the rms area but that’s all.
3.7 engine
Good day John, may you please send me the link where to buy all the parts e.g. (water pump, seals, timing chains, sprocket etc.) and also the special tools e.g. dual overhead cam brackets holder that fits 3.7 Li engine and the flat wrecker bar and so on. Thanks
go to the first video and click "Show More" right under my name. All the links are there
Question fine some reason. I can't get the valve cover. On the front. I counted 9 bolts all of them off and still the cover won't come off. Any suggestions. Please 🙏🙏🙏
The front cover is pretty straight forward. Nothing special like the back breather hose. Try prying up on the corners with a flat top, gently
I am going to try tomorrow. Feels like it the spark plug tube seals. Not letting me lift it. Thanks for replying. Will post progress. 🙏
You reference longer and shorter bolts needed for the updated timing chain guide. I have not been able to find additional information on these. Would you be able to give me additional direction? And your videos are absolutely amazing!
Hello and thanks for these videos. I plan on tackling this job in the next few months. 2013 CX-9 with 165k km and hoping to keep it for 3-4 years more. I was thinking about changing the alternator since the belt would be off and it would be easier to take it off at the same time but I don’t have any indication on the failure rate of the alternator. What would you suggest? I don’t want to have an alternator failure in 1-2 years after this kind of job!
I would change it out as well. Best time to do it.
Everything is beautiful shown. Isn't it worth measuring the valve clearance? How's so much work done? glasses pushers can be replaced. Maybe a few pieces do not have good play, but it requires unscrewing the shaft.
Never thought about it but you would be right there to do it. Good catch.😀
Measured valve clearance. There should be 0.30mm-0.40mm on the exhaust shaft. Mine is 0.33 and 0.35mm. I left it. I changed the water pump and timing belt. The pump leaked into the motor but all is well. Pump bearing seized.
Thanks for the great video. You mention a belt tool for installing the power steering belt, but there isn't a link for this tool. Can you advise on what is the correct tool for this process.
This is the one I used. I used this with a zip tie. www.amazon.com/Drake-Off-Road-Stretch-Installer/dp/B00AC60VEC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=19DRV1T2IXFY7&keywords=Mazda+CX-9+belt+tool&qid=1654007636&sprefix=mazda+cx-9+belt+tool%2Caps%2C119&sr=8-1
@@JohnCanFixAnything Thank you
What manuals do you use for the specs and images in your video? I’m undertaking this task and would like to study a bit first.
alldatadiy.com
JohnCanFixAnything Thank you!
JohnCanFixAnything John, if I’m planning to do a head gasket replacement on my CX-9 do I still need the cam holder tool?
The link for the cam locking tools does not state that they fit this Mazda engine in the details, is this the correct tool kit for the cams
Thank you for helping me come to the understanding that I'll need to save up about $2,000 Dollars! I appreciate you soooooooo much at this point !!!!!
Happy to help!
My mazda cx9 2008 300,000 km mileage. The route is 4 km. The check engine light comes on. It stops for 15 minutes. I'm moving on. Everything works fine, engine shows no temperature increase. Another 2km I hear the cooling fan, after a while again. I turn off the engine, I don't know what's going on. The temperature does not exceed 90⁰C. The engine ran completely silent. There is no fluid under the hood. Mud on the cork. The oil dipstick shows 2-3 liters above the good condition of the oil. The car is at the mechanic now. In a few days I will want to change the water pump and timing belt. Clean the oil pan and valve covers. 2 oil changes and engine flush. I hope I didn't damage the engine. I was driving very slowly. What do you think? Any chance the engine isn't dead?
With nothing in the oil there is a good chance. Fingers crossed.
@@JohnCanFixAnything Measured valve clearance. There should be 0.30mm-0.40mm on the exhaust shaft. Mine is 0.33 and 0.35mm. I left it. I changed the water pump and timing belt. The pump leaked into the motor but all is well. Pump bearing seized.
What about changing out the phasers and oil pump while the engine is open ?
All you would have to do is drop the pan.
Hi John what year was the vehicle you were working on. I HAVE A 2010 CX9
Hi John, really appreciate you making this video. It's extremely helpful. Quick question... I have a 2013 Mazda CX-9 and there is coolant mixing with the oil. The car only has 58,000 miles so I find it unlikely that it would be the water pump, and I'm thinking it's more likely to be a gasket leak or something like that. My questions for you;
- What other issues could it be besides head gasket or water pump? As far as I know those are the only ways oil and coolant can mix.
- Is there a way to diagnose a bad water pump vs head gasket leak? As far as I know the symptoms of both are identical.
You have it right. Head gasket most likely. When you do that though the water pump should be changed anyway.
@@JohnCanFixAnything Awesome. Thanks for the quick response. Thanks again for making these videos, they're well-made and very helpful. Have a good weekend.
@@rje613 I have a 2010 Cx-9 that did the same thing. There is a class action lawsuit filed against Mazda because they knew the water pumps were fouling out causing catastrophic engine failure. It was filed in March 2022 in California. When it happened to me, I was driving on a very busy fast interstate, and it nearly caused a huge accident. I lost all power, steering, and brakes.
@@melindawillis7033 Exactly. I did some research into the law suit when doing this repair and although it’s still ongoing I don’t know if much is going to come of it for quite some time. I believe they’re trying to get a country-wide engine recall which would likely be one of the biggest recalls in history, replacing hundreds of thousands of engines for free. I’d like to think it’ll happen but although I’m sure they’ll succeed eventually, I don’t know if it’ll be anytime soon.
I have a 2010 Mazda cx-9. are these parts the same? I looked up the timing kit from Autozone and its over $400 and the water pump is $111. Are these the same just over priced or is the 2010 3.7 different. I really hope I can do this job. The hardest timing kit I have ever done was a dual cam Toyota rav4 took 8 hours. Do you guys think this job compares to that? Thanks for any advice you can give.
There is no difference in the parts up to 2013. Go to Amazon and you will find them much cheaper.
@@JohnCanFixAnything yeah i used your link and it says it does not fit the 2010 for some reason but Autozone shows the same part number for the dayco part for 2009 and 2010 lol. thanks John I will be tackling this task on Friday.
I have a 2012 cx9 with the 3.7 motor, and I need to do the timing as well, is my motor the same that you show on the video?
Natalino Lozada yes
Hello John,
Thank you for your comprehensive videos and parts list. Would you recommend replacing the cam sensors since you are working in this area for this project. had these sensors fail on other vehicles in the 100k to 150k range. Your thoughts.
Yes.
So I'm stuck. I marked the balance but the paint rubbed off. Is the dot on the front of the pulley there to line up with the sprocket timing mark? There are also a set of holes drilled in the front of the balancer. How do I properly align it. Also, how do i install the seal with the cover on. Can i put it on the back of the balancer and push it in or should i use a special tool.
It doesn't matter on the balancer. I marked mine out of habit. It is not conterbalanced so you are fine. I actually brushed mine down and painted it. I don't know what the purpose of the holes are in the balancer. I used a cheap seal tool from Harbor freight. Well worth the money and you will use it several times. Especially if you change out valve cover seals.
How many miles did you replace the first one? Was it failing or preventative on both occasions you changed them?
I did the first one at 100,000 and it was routine maintenance. The second one I did because I felt the water pump was starting to fail and it turned out to be true. The inner seal was already gone.
@@JohnCanFixAnything how did you know the water pump is going to fail? We also have a CX9 but from 2011 and here in Europe, you cannot get proper informations because they only say what Mazda says and they say "for Europe all is fine, no problems with transfer case, nor water pump blabla"...
Hi John. This is a great video that is really beneficial for us. I owe a 2015 CX9 with over 110K miles. When do you think I should have this maintenance done?
the only thing i can say is holy shit mine is a 2010 cx9 with 94,000 miles on it the dealer wants 3,000 to do it and the car book value says 2,800 but to me its worth more i have no problems with it I'm the only owner i just wanted to do it before anything horrible happens
Hi John,
I started hearing rattling noises from my engine (2010 cx-9 with 144K miles). The oil was not frothy (I use synthetic), the heater still worked so I guess water is still circulating. There coolant was low (down to the min line). Coolant did not look oily or dirty. So I think the water pump had gone bad. Is it still worthwhile to get the water pump replaced? I am guessing that a mechanic would charge me $2k for this job after looking at the amount of work involved in your video. I dont have a problem spending the $2k however Im wondering if the little quanity of coolant that has mixed with the engine oil has already destroyed something else? The engine is running smooth. No codes (yet). No loss of power. Im not driving the car anymore though. What do you think? ps. I used your other video to replace the fuel injectors just 6 months ago. Thanks for that!
Hey brother thanks for this major help, is the manifold you take off here is it suppost to have oil inside the manifold?
There is generally a small amount of oil in the manifold but should not be coated or excessive.
Hey glad I found this. I just purchased a 2013 Mazda CX-9, water pump and timing chain has never been done. Should I do it? Or wait until it goes?
How many miles are on it?
@@JohnCanFixAnything 126,000
My 2015 CX-9 with less than 90,000 just came up with a P0016 code yesterday.
Hey man thank you for everything In here. I've hit a little snag. Has come time to turn the engine over to line up the timing and the engine won't turn. Been putting a lot of pressure on it and definitely feel like it's too much. Worried about breaking that bolt off in there. Any suggestions?
If the engine will not turn over then do not force it. You should be able to turn it over with a breaker bar a minimal pressure. This can be a big deal and you can damage the valve if you try too hard. If the crank and cam are out of sync the valves can interfere. You can get everything lined back up by setting the crank in a position where all the pistons are down. 90 degrees off of TDC works for this. If you can’t turn it in one direction try the other. Then and only then can you turn the camshaft to get it into timing position. After the cam is set, you can bring the number one piston up to TDC by turning the crank. If you don’t have a lot of experience working with overhead camshaft engines, it’s easy to get into trouble. It may be best to get professional help by contacting a mechanic and having someone look it over and help you figure out what to do.
I've done worse jobs than this but this one looks like a doozy. I just drained the oil in my 2010 cx9 and noticed a little water in the oil. Coolant level is still up there but I know its time to do it. The car has 130,000 miles on it. I didn't even bother putting the new oil in the car because I don't want to risk driving it like this. Other than this, and some routine brakes etc, this car has been a really good car and still drives like its new. I'm dreading it a little because I just wasn't motivated to do it just yet but I knew I was gonna have to do it. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for putting these videos up, I already know it's gonna save me a lot of aggravation.
I’ve talked to the dealer and they mentioned Mazda CX-9’s 2012-2016 use a 37 gauge chain vs a 35 gauge chain in the older models so changing the water pump is not necessary until 250,000 miles. Is this true. I have a 2013 Mazda CX-9 with 126k miles and have never changed it. Should I?
You will not find a factory replacement schedule for any car or truck. You will only find one for scheduled maintenance. When to change the oil, filters, brakes, etc. I base my replacement miles by the parts manufacturers estimates. They will give you the best information on when to replace a part, not the dealers or the factory. Common sense tells me parts wear out on any engine. The chain may very well be capable of 250,000 but what about the guides(which are plastic) or the tensioners or the water pump itself? What kind of oil was used, how frequent were the oil changes, what conditions were being driven in. I don't know how a dealer could say that to anyone in good faith. No vehicle goes with out some kind of engine work well before 250,000 miles.
My 2015 CX-9 with less than 90,000 just came up with a P0016 code yesterday.
will an aftermarket warranty cover my cx 9 water pump and engine
damage?
It depends on the warranty. Most do cover the water pump and engine damage.
Hi, thanks for your very helpful video! I'm about to do this job, do you think it's a good idea to also replace the head gaskets while doing this timing job? How long should the head gaskets last on the 3.5? Thanks so much!
Definitely they could be fine but why take the chance? Cheap to replace. Head gaskets can go for many years without failure. My vehicle had a lot of miles on it. I changed them as a precaution.
@@JohnCanFixAnything Thanks so much! I'll be changing the head gaskets too.
I don’t see links for parts required can you share?
Click the SHOW MORE link above under my Picture. All the links are there.
Hey, John. My son has a 2012 Mazda CX 9. The water pump seem to failed and water got to the engine. My question is, did it damaged the engine? Or replacing the water pump and its components and changing the oil would be ok. Would the engine run ok?
Sorry for the late reply. It all depends on how quickly it was caught. The oil breaks down fairly quickly when water enters into the oil pan. With synthetic oil your chances are much better that all is well. You will have to weight the price of parts and make your decision based on the vehicle worth. A 2012 is still a pretty good ride being only 7 years old.
What type of coolant did you use to refill?
50/50 Prestone. But Peak is fine or any of the regular brands
Which gasket maker did you use to put the cover back on ?
I use Permatex Ultra Black.
@@JohnCanFixAnything thank you !!
Can you list the special tools you used or rented?
The biggest special is the crank cam tool holding set. They were about $30.00 and tool rental places usually don't stock them. Don't skimp on a good torque wrench. A set of swivel sockets would be good as well. Especially for that darn power steering pump. A lighted mirror will help as well.
Wow! I am scheduled to buy a 2010 CX-9 tomorrow with 92000k miles. I am now going to ask the owner if the water pump has been replaced before I buy the CX-9. That is, if I buy it at all! I am about to change my mind on the sale.
What does it cost to do a routine water pump change? Do you recommend not getting a 2010 CX-9 because of the water pump 'flaw'?
.
AeroRamer I like them up to 2014. Changing the water pump is the same as replacing the timing chain. It sets right there in the middle. I would never change the pump without doing all the guided, chains, and tensioners. I would say $1200 to $1500
@@JohnCanFixAnything Thanks for the info. I previously negotiated the price down to the ‘clean trade-in’ value per the Black Book report. But now I will have to offer at least 75% less (of the repair cost) if I want to buy it. I will not buy a car to pay for someone else’s repair problems. At least not in full. And definitely not when they want retail price. That will put you over retail if you have to add $1-2k more for just one repair. I am mechanically inclined. I can do minor stuff and I am sure I could do this job. But no, I would not want to tackle this job. No need to venture unless I get a really discounted car price. I am going to contact a Mazda dealer to run the VIN and check if this has been done already and when. The owner can profit and relief himself from future trouble by selling to someone else not familiar with this.
Amazing Video Sir! Subscribed and liked. Question, will these parts and steps work on the 2015 Mazda CX-9 3.7L DOHC 2WD?
No, I’m afraid not. They changed everything with the new body style including the engine setup.
Thank you for confirming. This video still gives me some confidence to consider DIY. For sure, it has helped me in terms of getting quotes from local mechanics.
To share with your audience, I received one quote of around $6k from a local mechanic who was not familiar with this issue and another quote of $4560, from a mechanic who had done this work in the past. I’m on the west coast. Prices have definitely increased during the past 3-4 years.
Done this in 8 hours w new vvt and new tensioners on vvt chains .and sprockets. Wp and replace the suction ps hose. They tend to leak.
Why would you need to change the injectors?
I did it because of the mileage I had on the vehicle and I was already there to do everything else. It seemed logical not to take any chances that far along in the rebuild.
Hello John,
Great detail and precise work! We all appreciate the time you took to make these videos.
I have a question about timing with my Mazda CX-9 and maybe you can help...
I have codes :P0011, P0016 & P0021. Engine has knocking noise on the top.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
All those codes basically mean the same thing. They mean your timing is over advanced. Since it is both sides, PO011 is one side and PO021 is the other side I would guess that the cam sprocket was not turned back quite enough and you are probably a tooth off on the timing. Remember you have to move that cam sprocket back at the end. If you don't then the timing will be advanced as this indicates. It is also very easy to slip a tooth when putting everything back together. I always have someone else come take a look at all my marks before I pull the pins. Hope this helps.
U forgot the link to the holding tool
Hello .How many hours can this work be done?
abraham hernandez it took me three days. I did not work on it more that 4 hours at a time.
QUICKIE: Scitoo Timing chain kit fits for 2007-08 TK4198 AT4Z-6306 Is Currently Unavailable as of 8/9/2020
I believe it is good now
How often would you recommend performing this job? - thanks!
over 100,000 miles or if there is an issue with your water pump. There is no reason not to change everything if you go there.
Mazda cx9 Coolant in Eng oil
What can be problem
Khaled খালেদ generally it is the head gasket or the seal on the water pump
Thanks again John for this video. I don't think I would have been able to complete this task without the added information in this video. Everything is put back together and working great although there is a small oil leak from one of the ocv seals that I think was installed wrong but other than that everything is Excellent thanks again.
My pleasure.
I have a rattle coming from crank pulley area under a load at a certain rpm. Worse when ac is on.. I'm pretty sure it's the chain. I started with replacing serpentine pulley.. rattle still there. And keeps getting worse... I shut the car down before the chain breaks. I'm just going to do this. As I have 120k anyways... But what a dang headache this seems... stupid ford engineering
I sure rather work on my Toyotas... after this one I have a Mazda cx7 2.3 I have too work on. I'm thinking I will have to do the same thing. Well the cam tool work on a 2.3 turbo?
Check your guides and make sure you have the right belt and that the teeth are tracking properly.
Would you do this job for a fee ,same engine ? 133000 original equipment on it still , no issues well maintained
I am flattered but I have a one-car garage and my lovely wife would kill me for bringing in another project from someone outside. I do the videos because I like to help people and no one seems to take the time to give real details. Regards, John
good video. hope you can get a better camera. the shaking is hard to watch and the out of focus make it hard to watch also.
I have a new setup now
How much would this cost at a shop?.
Rasean Pitts $1500 to $2000
@@JohnCanFixAnything I think FordTechMakuloco said $2200. I have an '09 Taurus with 3.5L nearing 150k. It has had all the dealer maintenance on schedule. Should I schedule this procedure soon before the internal water pump fails?
Update: I'm only driving around 10k'yr so I flushed the coolant, drained and filled the tranny fluid, and now running synthetic oil. I love the old car but I have higher priorities.
My 2015 CX-9 with less than 90,000 just came up with a P0016 code yesterday.
Ouch.
@@JohnCanFixAnything water pump failed at 83,272 miles. Engine quit when we were taking it to the dealer. Milkshake on the dipstick. We bought it certified pre owned with 40,000 miles. Waiting to hear from the dealer today if Mazda will cover the engine being replaced. Supposed to be a 7 year 100,000 mile warranty.
Just a heads up, I ordered the parts recommended here, I of course could have just recieved a bad part but mine leaks horribly after having a mechanic install the parts I ordered (hes a former Ford tech so he's done more than a few of these) I would recommend ordering the part from Mazda, part number CY02-15-010D, they are about $100. I wish I had spent the extra the first time, now I have to pay a lot to have the faulty pump mentioned here pulled and replaced.
dudefromlaveenaz sorry to hear that happened to you.
@@JohnCanFixAnything stuff happens, just wish it wasnt to me at this time, this vehicle is causing a lot of stress in my life since I now have to pay another 1000+ to do the job again.
Thank you for making this great video!
Thank you
Omg
So slow its best to pull down engine i did for 1 hour only
$2800 from my newrest mazda dealer! Nope!!! What a stupid place to put a water pump, Ford should be ashamed!! Brings new meaning to found on road dead!
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