Thank you very much for the briefing, Simon! I found an old pair of tailoring scissors in my father's shop and would like to use them if I can get them sharpened up. They're kind of rusty so I need to do a wee bit of grinding, but that shouldn't be too difficult! Thanks you very much for the help!
Use the same technique to put the edge on BUT, instead of honing on the block, cut the burr off for tailoring shears. Maybe that is another video for another day! Put the edge on ONE blade, keep the blades open and spread them apart. Close them gently without allowing the blades to touch each other until closed (keep them spread as you close them). Now open them normally, this folds the burr back. Sharpen the second blade and do the same to fold the burr back. Then cut the burrs off by using some cloth to cut against, an old tee shirt or similar.
Why do you use that rounded deburring block instead of a flat one (5k stone for example)? In theory, to get rid of the burr, you would also remove the "ride line" surface down to "just a line". Thank you! (I am impressed by your work, and your comments below - I have lots of other questions for you!)
It is for the curvature of the blades. Place the blades of a new pair of scissors on a flat surface and you will see they are not flat, but curved. Using a flat stone removes different amount of material along the length of the ride line. It eventually makes the blades flat, when they shouldn't be. The blades are held at an angle on the block too, and the opposite way for left handers, so as ot follow the curvature of the blade.
Hi Simon thanks for taking the time to make this video, clear concise and informative. A quick question if I may, does the twice as sharp do everything you need? A lot of videos I see they flat hone machines. There is so much information out there, mostly USA, it would be nice to get a British point of view😀. I’ve watched a lot of Wolff videos, did you have hand on training? I’m in Australia and training is thin on the ground here. Thanks in advance
Tony, the videos are a very good starting point. They teach you everything to do standard resharpening - cheaper than going for formal training (hindsight is a wonderful thing!) just buy some cheap hair scissors off e6ay or boot sale... and practice on them. All you really need is confidence that the system does work! The Ookami is perfect for hair scissors and dressmaking shears up to about 10", which is 95% of everything. Flat plate hone is just another way of doing the same job. I prefer the Twice as Sharp and have used papers from an abrasives supplier - they are A4 sort of size and I cut them to size with a guillotine that is ued to use for photographic paper. 3000 and 5000 is ideal.
@@simoneverett6081 Thanks Simon, yes I believe for correct, did my first pair for a hairdresser last week and she was very happy. I struggled with getting the angle from the scratch test “perfect” but after settling for an angle and finished them they turned out fine. I sometimes worry about the other 5% instead of concentrating on the 95%. Thanks for the paper tip. I have the Wolff blocks and like then. Thanks again for taking the time.
@@Tmacn Re the scratch test. I use a loupe (10x magnifier) to help me get the correct angle, but as you do it you will get to know the feel and hear the difference between right and wrong. Use your ears as well as your eyes. When the angle is correct the scratch test runs much more silky smooth, and is quieter, than if the blade is at the incorrect angle. It is also important to ensure the blade is at 90 degrees to the wheel - I mark the wheel with a little spot and if the tip and root are touching the same part of the spot, you're good to go.
I got a question for you I've decided to try to monetize sharpening I'm struggling on getting my name out in my community do you have any ideals that have worked for you to get your name out there quickly
Justin, I think my answer will depend largely to where you are in the world. Here in conservative, middle England my approach will be different to a large conurbation in USA, for example. What I have found is that there are a host of new starters taking shortcuts and doing a shoddy job. These tend to be 'walk in off the street' sharpeners who travel widely. I have had three emergency calls from clients who said, 'OK then, seeing as how you are here'.... Simon, and they admitted what had happened, can you rescue our scissors? The 'walk in' had been rapid, grabbed the money (cheap, about 40% of my price) and gone. Left no card or means of contact.... he had ruined the edges and I had to reestablish them. Do a good, proper job and your name will start to become known and trusted. It has taken me about 5 or 6 years of regular Facebook posts to get to the place I am now. I have been sharpenign for a lot longer. make regular contact with your customers, not just when they need their scissors doing - it is a personal relationship thing that you have to build and that takes time.
@@simoneverett6081 well I am in the US and I do thank you for your time and for the short amount of time that I have been in Salon sharpening I've seen a lot of people complaining about people who claim to be sharpeners and coming in and ruin their shears I usually offer to fix them for free to help them out and help get my name out in the salon
@@wowdancemix Doing it for free is undervaluing your work. I know you have to get their confidence, but get paid for doing a proper job - they paid the guy who ruined their edges! Try telling them you are happy to rescue their scissors, the price will be, whatever you charge, but only if they are successfully sharpened. Offer to do one pair as a trial and if they are happy with them, then you will do the rest - maybe offer a job lot price if there are several pairs. NEVER give discount on the first job, discount is for loyalty. Think about the banks who give treats to new customers, but nothing to their existing ones - how do you feel about being treated 'badly' in comparison to new customers who have given no loyalty to the bank? The same psychology is at work with the salons.
Thank you very much for the briefing, Simon! I found an old pair of tailoring scissors in my father's shop and would like to use them if I can get them sharpened up. They're kind of rusty so I need to do a wee bit of grinding, but that shouldn't be too difficult! Thanks you very much for the help!
Use the same technique to put the edge on BUT, instead of honing on the block, cut the burr off for tailoring shears. Maybe that is another video for another day! Put the edge on ONE blade, keep the blades open and spread them apart. Close them gently without allowing the blades to touch each other until closed (keep them spread as you close them). Now open them normally, this folds the burr back. Sharpen the second blade and do the same to fold the burr back. Then cut the burrs off by using some cloth to cut against, an old tee shirt or similar.
Nice to see a craftsman at work Simon 👍
Thank you.
you made that look so easy . .
Practice makes perfect!
Very good Simon
Cheers chap!
Top job Simon :)
Thank you.
Why do you use that rounded deburring block instead of a flat one (5k stone for example)?
In theory, to get rid of the burr, you would also remove the "ride line" surface down to "just a line".
Thank you!
(I am impressed by your work, and your comments below - I have lots of other questions for you!)
It is for the curvature of the blades. Place the blades of a new pair of scissors on a flat surface and you will see they are not flat, but curved. Using a flat stone removes different amount of material along the length of the ride line. It eventually makes the blades flat, when they shouldn't be. The blades are held at an angle on the block too, and the opposite way for left handers, so as ot follow the curvature of the blade.
What are you using for for your “de-burring block”?
They are curved rubber blocks that hold the abrasive papers in place. They come as part of the kit when you buy the Ookami Gold system.
Hi Simon thanks for taking the time to make this video, clear concise and informative. A quick question if I may, does the twice as sharp do everything you need? A lot of videos I see they flat hone machines. There is so much information out there, mostly USA, it would be nice to get a British point of view😀. I’ve watched a lot of Wolff videos, did you have hand on training? I’m in Australia and training is thin on the ground here. Thanks in advance
Tony, the videos are a very good starting point. They teach you everything to do standard resharpening - cheaper than going for formal training (hindsight is a wonderful thing!) just buy some cheap hair scissors off e6ay or boot sale... and practice on them. All you really need is confidence that the system does work!
The Ookami is perfect for hair scissors and dressmaking shears up to about 10", which is 95% of everything. Flat plate hone is just another way of doing the same job. I prefer the Twice as Sharp and have used papers from an abrasives supplier - they are A4 sort of size and I cut them to size with a guillotine that is ued to use for photographic paper. 3000 and 5000 is ideal.
@@simoneverett6081 Thanks Simon, yes I believe for correct, did my first pair for a hairdresser last week and she was very happy. I struggled with getting the angle from the scratch test “perfect” but after settling for an angle and finished them they turned out fine. I sometimes worry about the other 5% instead of concentrating on the 95%. Thanks for the paper tip. I have the Wolff blocks and like then. Thanks again for taking the time.
@@Tmacn Re the scratch test. I use a loupe (10x magnifier) to help me get the correct angle, but as you do it you will get to know the feel and hear the difference between right and wrong. Use your ears as well as your eyes. When the angle is correct the scratch test runs much more silky smooth, and is quieter, than if the blade is at the incorrect angle. It is also important to ensure the blade is at 90 degrees to the wheel - I mark the wheel with a little spot and if the tip and root are touching the same part of the spot, you're good to go.
I got a question for you I've decided to try to monetize sharpening I'm struggling on getting my name out in my community do you have any ideals that have worked for you to get your name out there quickly
Justin, I think my answer will depend largely to where you are in the world. Here in conservative, middle England my approach will be different to a large conurbation in USA, for example. What I have found is that there are a host of new starters taking shortcuts and doing a shoddy job. These tend to be 'walk in off the street' sharpeners who travel widely. I have had three emergency calls from clients who said, 'OK then, seeing as how you are here'.... Simon, and they admitted what had happened, can you rescue our scissors? The 'walk in' had been rapid, grabbed the money (cheap, about 40% of my price) and gone. Left no card or means of contact.... he had ruined the edges and I had to reestablish them. Do a good, proper job and your name will start to become known and trusted. It has taken me about 5 or 6 years of regular Facebook posts to get to the place I am now. I have been sharpenign for a lot longer. make regular contact with your customers, not just when they need their scissors doing - it is a personal relationship thing that you have to build and that takes time.
@@simoneverett6081 well I am in the US and I do thank you for your time and for the short amount of time that I have been in Salon sharpening I've seen a lot of people complaining about people who claim to be sharpeners and coming in and ruin their shears I usually offer to fix them for free to help them out and help get my name out in the salon
@@wowdancemix Doing it for free is undervaluing your work. I know you have to get their confidence, but get paid for doing a proper job - they paid the guy who ruined their edges! Try telling them you are happy to rescue their scissors, the price will be, whatever you charge, but only if they are successfully sharpened. Offer to do one pair as a trial and if they are happy with them, then you will do the rest - maybe offer a job lot price if there are several pairs. NEVER give discount on the first job, discount is for loyalty. Think about the banks who give treats to new customers, but nothing to their existing ones - how do you feel about being treated 'badly' in comparison to new customers who have given no loyalty to the bank? The same psychology is at work with the salons.
Where can I buy it in India?
I have no idea. It is an American system.
@@simoneverett6081 Can you help me with one question, where is it in America please?
@@hashimp8945 On the internet.