It’s not my file to share, it’s someone else’s design which I found and purchased online and printed it myself. if you google wave 2 ducting adapter 3-D prints you should find the same listing I did.
I bet your glad you have it in ya van this week. 32'c in the UK. Hotter inside a dark coloured van. Thanks for testing. Take care, only 3-4 months till your next cold adventure.
Does the power usage ramp down as it approaches the temperature set point? I'm curious if it would behave like other inverter ACs where it will reduce the power of the compressor so that it doesn't short-cycle. I can see that it uses less power in eco mode, so that is encouraging. Is the temperature swing adjustable? I like my ACs to keep the temperature of my space steady.
An incredible design stupidity is the placement of the hot air outlet in close proximity to the fresh air inlet (using tubes that have outlets on the plate right next to each other). I see this in a number of TH-cam videos for this unit (EcoFlow Wave 2) and can't help but wonder. There is even something similar supplied from the manufacturer as a backing. Are there that many people with such incredibly poor knowledge of the elementary laws of physics? You wonder what happens when a fan pushes air into some space that is effectively identical to the place from which the air is drawn back. Logically, at the point of discharge of the pump, there is an increase in pressure that rapidly expands in all directions, but preferentially to areas of lower pressure. Thus, if there is underpressure in close proximity caused by the air conditioner intake pipe, then much of the hot air from the outlet will be drawn back into the air conditioner inlet. All this can of course be verified and clearly seen, e.g. by colouring the air flow. Of course, by sucking hot exhaust air back into the system, the efficiency of the whole system decreases. It's unbelievable how such stupid designers could make such a good air conditioner. 🙂 Whose stupid idea was it to have those two pipes ending in holes right next to each other? I can't believe the designers themselves could come up with that. Maybe the engineers were on vacation and the cleaning lady filled in. 🙂 She may have come up with this joke that everyone fell for. It would be much more efficient to use only a one pipe with a hot air outlet to the outside and leave the intake of air from the interior, i.e. air that is already partially cooled. The underfloor pressure in the room itself will already take care of the air supply from other places, e.g. from the corridor or through vents from the rooms, which can be chosen in places where the air is cooler.
There isn’t any change of air pressure inside the vehicle with this unit When using both ducts. No air is getting pushed into the space, the compressor in and out are isolated from the air mass inside It’s not a fresh air inlet, it’s an air inlet to cool the compressor and a hot compressor exhaust. the conditioned air intake is on the inside so it’s already heating or already cooling conditioned air depending which mode you are using The In and outlets can be ducted, so it’s the end User, can placed them near or far from each other. Even in my set up with quite close, there isn’t much between each of them. You can see if the thermal camera there isn’t that much getting re-sucked. When it’s standing alone which isn’t for room cooling. The duct on the top of the unit point up, the other at the back and bottom.
depends on your battery capacity and chemistry. The inverter is just converting DC to AC power. The capacity of your battery bank is the important factor for how long something will run
@@MispronouncedAdventures I have a semi with 4 AMG deep cycle batteries. Would love to get something like this but want to make sure it’ll run for atleast 6-8 hours. Or if we could keep the battery bank plugged in to charge while in use would probably work. Thanks for replying
Great run through - not bad consumption really is it. Keep being tempted by one of these- shame they couldn’t do a slightly more compact one which would fit under a bench seat for semi permanent install 🤔 All the best, David 👍
Yeah, I thought the Power consumption was pretty reasonable for a medium to large campervan’s electrical system, compared to some of the rooftop ones which can be 800-1000w or more standard portable units but then again the Btu output is near double. And it’s a great looking unit just not the most convenient for permanent install in a van unless you’re particular designing around it
VAN Life Benefit, Water Maker: The EcoFlow Wave 2 in cooling mode/full fan speed, @ ~50% relative humidity, produces ~1.5 - 2 gallons of water (for cleaning or filtration), @ ~2500 to 2700 watts or watt hours per ~6 hour runtime/cycle. Product: EcoFlow Wave 2 # of Units: 1 Setting (Temperature): Cooling Settings (Fan Speed): Manual, Fans set to full speed Customer Add-On: 4" Inline Fan with App control (AC Infinity) to manage the EcoFlow Wave 2 compressor heat/improving efficiency. Relative Humidity: ~ 50% (humidity in the surrounding air) Runtime/Cycle: ~ 6 hours Power Source: EcoFlow Delta Pro Power: AC or DC, both tested with DC ~ 10% more efficient than AC Power Used: ~ 400-500 Watts/hour Power Usage: ~ 2.5 to 2.7 Kw (2,500 to 2,700 watts or watt hours) per runtime/cycle Water Production: 1.5 - 2 Gallons, or 5.67812 to 7.57082 litres/liters, per 6 hour runtime/cycle @ ~ 50% relative humidity Note: Exhaust vent tube/duct MUST be INSULATED (hvac insulated flexible vent duct, wrap heavy towels, etc to contain and vent ~ 120-140* F (48* C to 60* C) from the living space) Currently running four (4) EcoFlow Wave 2's, powered by six (6) individual EcoFlow Delta Pro's. This product line/ecosystem is simply amazing. @EcoFlow - Recommendation: Alex NEEDS at least 1 (or more) EcoFlow Delta Pro's to fully demonstrate the full potential of this product line (mobile/permanent install).
Haha. I am honestly surprised at how much liquid this unit produces. If you run on external drain mode or how quickly you can fill the reservoir, even in not the most humid environment. I haven’t drunk the condenser water, but I presume if really wanted to there isn’t much of reason you couldn’t 😂
SUPER useful. I'm trying to see how long I can run this unit to cool a lightweight camper I plan to install on a Ford Lightning EV pickup. Apparently the outlets available in the truck bed will not work if it's too hot or too cold. So I have to prevent the camper from getting too hot while I'm driving or when I arrive I will have no A/C or heat. Also I can only get limited power from the bed outlets when I'm driving. HOWEVER, based on your results I see that I will be able to run the EcoFlow on eco mode while I'm driving because the power draw is so low. Thanks MUCH for the video. Solved a big problem for me!
Thank you fir the info, so now im wondering is there optional clip in battery pack 12v dc or 24v dc ? and bout those extra pins on connector, are they on both ends of that cablle ? cause if not i might still be able to grt away with buying there cable cutting off one end n making cable ? Thry might just be jumpers for one side only ? Still cutious bout there clip on battery 12 or 24 v ? Amy info would greatly be appreciated. (BTY, i got a kick out of you using that one battery as A Swing seat...😅)
@@MispronouncedAdventures I see, Thank You for info. I have a simple 12v dc set up with solar and a Bluetti pack. I'll just have to adapt, Great Great info here on this channel plus Nazzahl icecy dripsss,
Well done on a practical review. Is it possible to fabricate a 12v Cable so i could use my campers 2 12v @ 230Ah batteries for overnight AC or heating? Cheers, Eric
@MispronouncedAdventures oh, ok. I misunderstood & thought that related to the solar input. I was hoping I could make a cable that connected to the DC input that the EchoFlow Delta was using. Thx, Eric
Thanx Alex for that. Some ideas on that Wave2: I would position the whole one outside in a box and only inner intake and outlet to touch and pass the van's wall. So no unlikely losses inside the van because of the whole tubing stuff. Second, I would then prefer an external heat sensor to plug in, so u get the temp from inside the van for all the regulations. Maybe to make a quasi autarc separate energy source with a second generator located at the vans engine and only use it (switch on) when the van is gliding to a traffic light or while engine breaking rolling down hills. Beside saving fuel. ;) Cheers
With the exterior idea, there is no reason you couldn’t do that amount in a rear box or something. Although strangely, they don’t actually provide a ducting adapter for the internal air intake. Although I believe someone’s already produced a 3-D printed one
If it worked off normal 12/24v Lithium batteries I'd have bought one at launch but they were very clever to force you to buy into their eco-system if you want it to run DC. I didn't realise it uses roughly the same consumption on AC and DC this is the only review I can remember showing that.
Yes, I think most people for a campervan use would like it to run natively off the DC system. Which is just not possible on this model ( whilst different companies units do ), although I’m not surprised 12 V, pulling up to 500 W. It would require some thicker cables and beefing up of the internal components. Although I was surprised to see the AC and DC consumption was next to no real difference
I believe if you buy their cable cut off their eco battery connector snd and ypur choice for standstd 12v battery pack using the connector eith proper polarity and you have a modified spaecial cable, Just verify your connections.
@la3819 that isn’t going to work. the DC port / Solar polar is just a stand XT60 connector, so no need to make anything special there. To connect up a normal 12V battery but the DC port is limited to fan mode or recharging the battery pack. The special “eco battery connector”. It’s at 48V DC. So connecting 12 V that isn’t going to do much, additionally, in that special cable, there appears to be multiple other pins which will be communications based, so unlikely to function at all without data on the data pins
@@MispronouncedAdventures Thanks! Did not see anything on their web site either. I ask because larger heat pump units have a dehumidfy mode without much cooling. Always thought that would be handy on rainy high humid days. Those don't happen much in the arctic, so not an important featue for you in the van.
Thank you for your testing. I was tempted to try and get an ecoflow brand battery just to have the efficiency of the DC connection. Since there is little difference in power consumption ac vs dc I am going to just get a cheaper brand of battery and run it off ac.
Hi, thank you for your video, quick question: In the winter the air intake part which is outside towards the cold environment will get frosted and will covered with ice , how could it still suck the air inside then ? even if it is connected to outside through the duct I'm pretty sure in cold winter it will still get covered with ice and frost. my question is , can it still operate in that situation or no, I'm living in NYC and I need an unbiased opinion from some one who actually lived in cold environment.
I haven’t yet used this unit in the cold yet, however, when you add the in and out ducting the unit acts as more of a mini split so cold air drawn in from the outside is only used for cooling the compressor and then exhausted outside again. It does not enter the internal space. As for frost forming on air conditioning mode the exhaust is more humid because the water has been evaporated into it so frost would happen. However I would presume in the winter you’d be using on heating mode instead and I don’t know if any moisture is produced on heating model.
Wouldn't not using the fresh air input be "best" for cooling ? - Would be like using recirc in a car A/C. In your test, drawing in warmer air from outside..the unit has to consistently cool the air inlet. If recirculating the inside air, at some point the compressor time would dramatically decrease. Thanks
The air which is being conditioned / air cooled is drawn in from the front of the unit and out to the top of the front of the unit. The unit is recirculating the already cooled air. The air intake from the outside is only used for cooling the compressor and then exhausted.
@douglasmontgomery6315 no worries. This units can be a bit confusing as most portable air con units only use one tube for exhaust and not a second for intake
@@billibandz1761 If you only use 1 exhaust pipe, and use the AC'd air to cool the compressor, you are now shooting air out of your space, while adding none in. I (believe) it creates a vacuum in whatever space you are in, causing you to pull in outside air from elsewhere (which might be ok in a hot car at first, but if it is a hot car then it would be better to cool the compressor with outside air hose anyway, rather than hot car air) I am still thinking about messing around with that anyway for other reasons.
True, they could be spaced further apart or directional vents to make sure that didn’t happen, but looking at the thermal camera, it doesn’t seem that much or any heat exhaust is taken back in by the intake
@@MispronouncedAdventures Sure, but there could be a small amount of leakage. There might be a small increase in intake temperature and that slightly reduces the efficiency of the system. Diverting the exhaust works too but that would need a bulky structure outside. I think spacing it is the easiest and lowest profile.
I don’t think it would be suitable for some of the extreme cold temperatures I go to use a 5 kW diesel heater for that. let alone the power consumption of it would make it completely unviable for battery. but if you are on a campsite with hook up then I’m sure it would be able to keep a van of my size warm in reasonable cold weather.
If the engine is running, then my DCDC chargers produce more power than it would consume, but if the engine is running, the cabin heaters are far more powerful heat generating wise
Do not buy this product! I spent over $1000 on this air conditioner and it is horrible. It blows cold but doesn’t cool my car. It also leaks huge amounts of water everywhere. This product sucks.
The average Car built AC unit is 10000-17000 BTU / 3 to 5kw. The Wave 2 is 5100 BTU / 1500W. It’s a smaller less powerful unit. As for the leaking, that depends on humidity. Although I agree, mine makes quite a lot of water, but I have the tube attached to it drains.
@@MispronouncedAdventuresCould be great to use for showering (not drinking) and still adding filters in between. So when you drain it, you pump it to a small external water tank, and then circulate the water to shower, then after shower, drain/pump it to gray water tank 😛
@@MispronouncedAdventures Not sure why, just overflow excess water to Gray water tank. And the rest to small shower tank. I don't know but it seems like some simple solanoid valve and some water level detection and it should be OK to do. Not sure of it's worth it. But here is pretty humid climate.
@@MispronouncedAdventures thanks i do have a question though. In a normal ac inverter, it is not good when the compressor is not reaching the target temp because compressor will not stop. Is this apply to wave 2? Like when using duct for the air outlet, how would the machine know that the ambient is as per the target temp?
Cracking review Alex 👍
Cheers! Glad it was good for you
Hey man :) great video, lots of info thank you, i wanted to know where you got the 3D models formthe window, it just looks perfect how you made it :)
I just searched them online. there are a few models to pick from and then I printed them myself
Would you be willing to share your 3D print file for your duct adapters?
It’s not my file to share, it’s someone else’s design which I found and purchased online and printed it myself. if you google wave 2 ducting adapter 3-D prints you should find the same listing I did.
You didn't test the heat in eco mode?
I bet your glad you have it in ya van this week. 32'c in the UK. Hotter inside a dark coloured van.
Thanks for testing. Take care, only 3-4 months till your next cold adventure.
It’s definitely been a put to good use this last few weeks! That’s for sure! I can’t wait until the next Arctic trip
Does the power usage ramp down as it approaches the temperature set point? I'm curious if it would behave like other inverter ACs where it will reduce the power of the compressor so that it doesn't short-cycle. I can see that it uses less power in eco mode, so that is encouraging. Is the temperature swing adjustable? I like my ACs to keep the temperature of my space steady.
An incredible design stupidity is the placement of the hot air outlet in close proximity to the fresh air inlet (using tubes that have outlets on the plate right next to each other). I see this in a number of TH-cam videos for this unit (EcoFlow Wave 2) and can't help but wonder.
There is even something similar supplied from the manufacturer as a backing. Are there that many people with such incredibly poor knowledge of the elementary laws of physics? You wonder what happens when a fan pushes air into some space that is effectively identical to the place from which the air is drawn back. Logically, at the point of discharge of the pump, there is an increase in pressure that rapidly expands in all directions, but preferentially to areas of lower pressure. Thus, if there is underpressure in close proximity caused by the air conditioner intake pipe, then much of the hot air from the outlet will be drawn back into the air conditioner inlet. All this can of course be verified and clearly seen, e.g. by colouring the air flow.
Of course, by sucking hot exhaust air back into the system, the efficiency of the whole system decreases. It's unbelievable how such stupid designers could make such a good air conditioner. 🙂 Whose stupid idea was it to have those two pipes ending in holes right next to each other? I can't believe the designers themselves could come up with that. Maybe the engineers were on vacation and the cleaning lady filled in. 🙂 She may have come up with this joke that everyone fell for.
It would be much more efficient to use only a one pipe with a hot air outlet to the outside and leave the intake of air from the interior, i.e. air that is already partially cooled. The underfloor pressure in the room itself will already take care of the air supply from other places, e.g. from the corridor or through vents from the rooms, which can be chosen in places where the air is cooler.
There isn’t any change of air pressure inside the vehicle with this unit When using both ducts. No air is getting pushed into the space, the compressor in and out are isolated from the air mass inside
It’s not a fresh air inlet, it’s an air inlet to cool the compressor and a hot compressor exhaust. the conditioned air intake is on the inside so it’s already heating or already cooling conditioned air depending which mode you are using
The In and outlets can be ducted, so it’s the end User, can placed them near or far from each other. Even in my set up with quite close, there isn’t much between each of them. You can see if the thermal camera there isn’t that much getting re-sucked. When it’s standing alone which isn’t for room cooling. The duct on the top of the unit point up, the other at the back and bottom.
How long will it run AC powered on an inverter?
depends on your battery capacity and chemistry. The inverter is just converting DC to AC power. The capacity of your battery bank is the important factor for how long something will run
@@MispronouncedAdventures I have a semi with 4 AMG deep cycle batteries. Would love to get something like this but want to make sure it’ll run for atleast 6-8 hours. Or if we could keep the battery bank plugged in to charge while in use would probably work. Thanks for replying
Don’t buy it. Waste of money…
Did you not likes yours? I’ve been using mine for air conditioning and heat since the summer
I love mine . lol
I would be tempted in purchasing a set of the adapters if your considering making more of them 👀
Great run through - not bad consumption really is it. Keep being tempted by one of these- shame they couldn’t do a slightly more compact one which would fit under a bench seat for semi permanent install 🤔
All the best, David 👍
Yeah, I thought the Power consumption was pretty reasonable for a medium to large campervan’s electrical system, compared to some of the rooftop ones which can be 800-1000w or more standard portable units but then again the Btu output is near double.
And it’s a great looking unit just not the most convenient for permanent install in a van unless you’re particular designing around it
Really??? Can’t you put it behind your passenger/driver seat? 👊🏾🇳🇬🇺🇸
VAN Life Benefit, Water Maker: The EcoFlow Wave 2 in cooling mode/full fan speed, @ ~50% relative humidity, produces ~1.5 - 2 gallons of water (for cleaning or filtration), @ ~2500 to 2700 watts or watt hours per ~6 hour runtime/cycle.
Product: EcoFlow Wave 2
# of Units: 1
Setting (Temperature): Cooling
Settings (Fan Speed): Manual, Fans set to full speed
Customer Add-On: 4" Inline Fan with App control (AC Infinity) to manage the EcoFlow Wave 2 compressor heat/improving efficiency.
Relative Humidity: ~ 50% (humidity in the surrounding air)
Runtime/Cycle: ~ 6 hours
Power Source: EcoFlow Delta Pro
Power: AC or DC, both tested with DC ~ 10% more efficient than AC
Power Used: ~ 400-500 Watts/hour
Power Usage: ~ 2.5 to 2.7 Kw (2,500 to 2,700 watts or watt hours) per runtime/cycle
Water Production: 1.5 - 2 Gallons, or 5.67812 to 7.57082 litres/liters, per 6 hour runtime/cycle @ ~ 50% relative humidity
Note: Exhaust vent tube/duct MUST be INSULATED (hvac insulated flexible vent duct, wrap heavy towels, etc to contain and vent ~ 120-140* F (48* C to 60* C) from the living space)
Currently running four (4) EcoFlow Wave 2's, powered by six (6) individual EcoFlow Delta Pro's. This product line/ecosystem is simply amazing.
@EcoFlow - Recommendation: Alex NEEDS at least 1 (or more) EcoFlow Delta Pro's to fully demonstrate the full potential of this product line (mobile/permanent install).
Haha. I am honestly surprised at how much liquid this unit produces. If you run on external drain mode or how quickly you can fill the reservoir, even in not the most humid environment.
I haven’t drunk the condenser water, but I presume if really wanted to there isn’t much of reason you couldn’t 😂
The SNOTSCICLE is a thing of beauty ! 👍✌🍻
It was magnificent
SUPER useful. I'm trying to see how long I can run this unit to cool a lightweight camper I plan to install on a Ford Lightning EV pickup. Apparently the outlets available in the truck bed will not work if it's too hot or too cold. So I have to prevent the camper from getting too hot while I'm driving or when I arrive I will have no A/C or heat. Also I can only get limited power from the bed outlets when I'm driving. HOWEVER, based on your results I see that I will be able to run the EcoFlow on eco mode while I'm driving because the power draw is so low. Thanks MUCH for the video. Solved a big problem for me!
Thank you fir the info, so now im wondering is there optional clip in battery pack 12v dc or 24v dc ? and bout those extra pins on connector, are they on both ends of that cablle ? cause if not i might still be able to grt away with buying there cable cutting off one end n making cable ? Thry might just be jumpers for one side only ?
Still cutious bout there clip on battery 12 or 24 v ?
Amy info would greatly be appreciated. (BTY, i got a kick out of you using that one battery as A Swing seat...😅)
The add on battery is 1154wh / 50.4v @ 23Ah. So pretty much a “48V” battery
@@MispronouncedAdventures
I see, Thank You for info. I have a simple 12v dc set up with solar and a Bluetti pack. I'll just have to adapt, Great Great info here on this channel plus Nazzahl icecy dripsss,
In case anybody's wondering you can power it with solar and use heating and AC but you have to have the battery attachment for it to work
Aye you do. Another plus point of the battery as well
THANKS for your detailed information 👍 ❤
Glad you found it helpful!
Well done on a practical review.
Is it possible to fabricate a 12v Cable so i could use my campers 2 12v @ 230Ah batteries for overnight AC or heating?
Cheers, Eric
The 12v DC input side isn’t enough to run the air-con unfortunately. It’s for running fan mode or charging the battery
@MispronouncedAdventures oh, ok. I misunderstood & thought that related to the solar input.
I was hoping I could make a cable that connected to the DC input that the EchoFlow Delta was using.
Thx, Eric
Finally, someone doing a proper test in dual hose configuration.
Those using it in single hose always makes me 🤦♂️
Cheers, I felt it’s possible to test it in its proper, most efficient use case
Awesome video Alex, interesting test
Thank you guys!
Thanx Alex for that. Some ideas on that Wave2: I would position the whole one outside in a box and only inner intake and outlet to touch and pass the van's wall. So no unlikely losses inside the van because of the whole tubing stuff. Second, I would then prefer an external heat sensor to plug in, so u get the temp from inside the van for all the regulations. Maybe to make a quasi autarc separate energy source with a second generator located at the vans engine and only use it (switch on) when the van is gliding to a traffic light or while engine breaking rolling down hills. Beside saving fuel. ;) Cheers
With the exterior idea, there is no reason you couldn’t do that amount in a rear box or something. Although strangely, they don’t actually provide a ducting adapter for the internal air intake. Although I believe someone’s already produced a 3-D printed one
If it worked off normal 12/24v Lithium batteries I'd have bought one at launch but they were very clever to force you to buy into their eco-system if you want it to run DC. I didn't realise it uses roughly the same consumption on AC and DC this is the only review I can remember showing that.
Yes, I think most people for a campervan use would like it to run natively off the DC system. Which is just not possible on this model ( whilst different companies units do ), although I’m not surprised 12 V, pulling up to 500 W. It would require some thicker cables and beefing up of the internal components.
Although I was surprised to see the AC and DC consumption was next to no real difference
I believe if you buy their cable cut off their eco battery connector snd and ypur choice for standstd 12v battery pack using the connector eith proper polarity and you have a modified spaecial cable, Just verify your connections.
@la3819 that isn’t going to work. the DC port / Solar polar is just a stand XT60 connector, so no need to make anything special there. To connect up a normal 12V battery but the DC port is limited to fan mode or recharging the battery pack.
The special “eco battery connector”. It’s at 48V DC. So connecting 12 V that isn’t going to do much, additionally, in that special cable, there appears to be multiple other pins which will be communications based, so unlikely to function at all without data on the data pins
@@la3819that won’t work because this does not run on 12v. It runs on 24v.
It’s 48V not 24v
Can you charge the add on wave 2 battery with solar without having it attached to the wave 2?
No, the add on battery must be connected to the Wave 2 in order to charge. I have 2 add on batteries and this is a huge limitation.
Wave two battery has to be plugged into the wave two or one of the Delta line
Instant subscribe I love your vibe man
Thank you very much! hope you like the rest of my stuff!
@@MispronouncedAdventures I'm sure I will thanks mate!
Good review, interesting device. Curious if it has a mode that is dehumidify only?
I don’t know if there is a DC to dehumidify mode itself. But it will dehumidifier when running on Aircon mode.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Thanks! Did not see anything on their web site either. I ask because larger heat pump units have a dehumidfy mode without much cooling. Always thought that would be handy on rainy high humid days. Those don't happen much in the arctic, so not an important featue for you in the van.
Thank you for your testing. I was tempted to try and get an ecoflow brand battery just to have the efficiency of the DC connection. Since there is little difference in power consumption ac vs dc I am going to just get a cheaper brand of battery and run it off ac.
That would definitely be the better option for capacity.
Hi, thank you for your video, quick question:
In the winter the air intake part which is outside towards the cold environment will get frosted and will covered with ice , how could it still suck the air inside then ? even if it is connected to outside through the duct I'm pretty sure in cold winter it will still get covered with ice and frost. my question is , can it still operate in that situation or no, I'm living in NYC and I need an unbiased opinion from some one who actually lived in cold environment.
I haven’t yet used this unit in the cold yet, however, when you add the in and out ducting the unit acts as more of a mini split so cold air drawn in from the outside is only used for cooling the compressor and then exhausted outside again. It does not enter the internal space.
As for frost forming on air conditioning mode the exhaust is more humid because the water has been evaporated into it so frost would happen. However I would presume in the winter you’d be using on heating mode instead and I don’t know if any moisture is produced on heating model.
Wouldn't not using the fresh air input be "best" for cooling ? - Would be like using recirc in a car A/C. In your test, drawing in warmer air from outside..the unit has to consistently cool the air inlet. If recirculating the inside air, at some point the compressor time would dramatically decrease.
Thanks
The air which is being conditioned / air cooled is drawn in from the front of the unit and out to the top of the front of the unit. The unit is recirculating the already cooled air. The air intake from the outside is only used for cooling the compressor and then exhausted.
@@MispronouncedAdventures , Ah..thanks for clearing that up.
@douglasmontgomery6315 no worries. This units can be a bit confusing as most portable air con units only use one tube for exhaust and not a second for intake
Wouldn't the logic still stand with using air condtioned air to cool the compressor though? I would imagine it would result in colder temps
@@billibandz1761 If you only use 1 exhaust pipe, and use the AC'd air to cool the compressor, you are now shooting air out of your space, while adding none in. I (believe) it creates a vacuum in whatever space you are in, causing you to pull in outside air from elsewhere (which might be ok in a hot car at first, but if it is a hot car then it would be better to cool the compressor with outside air hose anyway, rather than hot car air)
I am still thinking about messing around with that anyway for other reasons.
We need van window adapters for the exhaust.
Like the ones I 3D printed in the video?
@@MispronouncedAdventures yes! I’ve got a Toyota Coaster (mini bus) I need them for. Haha
I think you need more space between the exhaust and intake. You don't want to suck in the hot exhaust.
True, they could be spaced further apart or directional vents to make sure that didn’t happen, but looking at the thermal camera, it doesn’t seem that much or any heat exhaust is taken back in by the intake
@@MispronouncedAdventures Sure, but there could be a small amount of leakage. There might be a small increase in intake temperature and that slightly reduces the efficiency of the system.
Diverting the exhaust works too but that would need a bulky structure outside. I think spacing it is the easiest and lowest profile.
Will you be testing the heating feature in negative degree weather? Or, is it just not feasible, due to lack of power generation in your situation?
I don’t think it would be suitable for some of the extreme cold temperatures I go to use a 5 kW diesel heater for that. let alone the power consumption of it would make it completely unviable for battery. but if you are on a campsite with hook up then I’m sure it would be able to keep a van of my size warm in reasonable cold weather.
If the engine is running, then my DCDC chargers produce more power than it would consume, but if the engine is running, the cabin heaters are far more powerful heat generating wise
Do not buy this product! I spent over $1000 on this air conditioner and it is horrible. It blows cold but doesn’t cool my car. It also leaks huge amounts of water everywhere. This product sucks.
The average Car built AC unit is 10000-17000 BTU / 3 to 5kw. The Wave 2 is 5100 BTU / 1500W. It’s a smaller less powerful unit.
As for the leaking, that depends on humidity. Although I agree, mine makes quite a lot of water, but I have the tube attached to it drains.
@@MispronouncedAdventuresCould be great to use for showering (not drinking) and still adding filters in between. So when you drain it, you pump it to a small external water tank, and then circulate the water to shower, then after shower, drain/pump it to gray water tank 😛
@@renstillmannto be fair I did like the concept of using it for water generation. Although researching into that, it’s not as simple as it seems.
@@MispronouncedAdventures Not sure why, just overflow excess water to Gray water tank. And the rest to small shower tank. I don't know but it seems like some simple solanoid valve and some water level detection and it should be OK to do. Not sure of it's worth it. But here is pretty humid climate.
Is it normal that when using duct on air outlet it gets moist?
I’d say yes. As the unit tries to evaporate via the air outlet
@@MispronouncedAdventures thanks i do have a question though. In a normal ac inverter, it is not good when the compressor is not reaching the target temp because compressor will not stop. Is this apply to wave 2? Like when using duct for the air outlet, how would the machine know that the ambient is as per the target temp?
Where did you get the adapters to vent the horse from pls Alex?
A guy sells the 3-D model files on Etsy and I printed them off myself
@@MispronouncedAdventures thanks Alex 👍
Does the xt100 connector work as extention between wave and its battery if i want to have battery not attached to the bottom of the wave.
Also, it's very well done on your 3D printed intake/exhaust port flanges! You should market them, or sell the design file. 🤔
Cheers, Eric
Not my design, I just bought the file and printed it
@@MispronouncedAdventures excellent thx!