I've been using a set of these on my dayjob as a mechanic almost daily for well over a year maybe even close to 2 years. I do like them a lot, especially the longer than standard hex key length. I do neither love or dislike the sleeves on them. In a rare case I've come across a situation where the sleeve didn't fit. It was for a pulley set screw. The sleeve is indeed narrower as the major diameter of the screw thread. It's the hole that has only clearance of the threads minor diameter. Just took a boxcutter and shortened the sleeve a bit. I care most about not stripping out bolt heads, and they still perform well. Mine do show fading of the lettering tough, at least the ones that get used most. Plain wear or chemicals, don't know. I regularly clean my tools in the parts washer. not sure what chemical is in it, I'ts an industrial degreaser.
It's more than likely HDPE plastic. Consequently that is what most containers designed to hold harsh chemicals are made of. HDPE plastic is UV sensitive and will become brittle. On a side note WERA doesn't offer any warranty on the L-Keys.
You all probably dont care but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost my password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@King Alejandro I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
I have had mine for almost 14 months, since they came out, no wear issues or damage to the sleeves. I find one associates the color with the size after a while. It gets confusing though when using the metric and the imperial size, that have different colors. I think they are the best hex wrenches on the market, well made and very slip resistant.
Using these to setup lathes at my job have been pretty nice. There have been a few of them with nicked up and scraped up sleeves, but it's plastic vs aluminum & steel chuck jaws and tooling etc. To be expected. Only issue was with one of the sleeves being too thick when I tried to undo a hex cap screw deep in a tight bore, I had to shave the sleeve down to get in there. The biggest plus for me is Hex Plus. I have yet find another set of L-keys that engage with barely any play and very solid engagement. All the Bondhus keys around the shop work, but they just don't feel as good when I'm putting torque one it to tighten or loosen up a fastener.
Love wera l-keys been using them at work for over a year. Within the last month snapping ball ends off the sae set like crazy. Was wondering if they offer a full set of SAE with /64th sizes or ones with holding function?
I sometimes move up the scale with solvents I have on-hand while cleaning unknown stuff; Alcohol, Mineral Spirits, Acetone, then Lacquer Thinner. I think Lacquer Thinner will soften most PVC plastics and I avoid using it on tool handles and such.
One argument I have is with the set screw; I have come across a few recessed set screws where the bore narrows to the lowest pitch of the thread and it was a security torx! Needed to purchase a Wiha T15 driver.
I have a set and have had them for approximately a year. Without question the best Allen keys I've ever owned it puts bondhus to shame. However, even though they look lovely when new the identification on the sleeves rubs off within 3 months of heavy use and after 6 months the plastic slips off. The only Allen keys that this hasn't happened to is the 1.5 and 2.5 but that is because they rarely get used. The other issue is that when used now they tend to slip in the hand alot more which has on a couple occasions caused injury. And the other issue is that you can't throw away the sleeves because of the holder bit of a nuisance! If they get used on a regular basis get a set without the sleeves if they do some plus I find I can tell a size of an Allen key by just looking at them if you use them that often. If a hobbyist or used infrequently go for these you'll be more than happy.
I must be doing something wrong with these things. Within a week of use the sleeves were breaking up and damaged. Also I left them in my tool box in the garage and they were completely rusted. I live in a very dry place also very hot. I brought the stainless without sleeves and I’m very happy with them.
Brake cleaner would be my bet for something that could do damage. If you look at, say Grainger’s website for the kind of cleaners industrial techs might use. Hydraulic fluid? Maybe send it to Scoutcrafter..... he’s got *all* the chemicals that tools might be subjected to.
You measured the major diameter of the setscrew but in order for the allen key to fit through the hole it needs to fit through the minor diameter. Personally I got the stainless versions of teses L-keys and I'm very happy with them, the sleeved versions were more expensive and I didn't think to need those sleeves
I would consider trying a brake cleaner, a methylene chloride-containing paint stripper (Goof Off All Purpose at Lowes contains it), and a non-polar solvent such as toluene or xylene (the same Goof Off also has both).
Good call on the brake cleaner and methylene chloride, however, Goof-Off contains Acetone and Xylene as well as Ethylbezene and Methanol per the SDS. Wouldn't hurt to try it non the less.
You wanna see the Bondhus T handle keys. It only take two or three uses, under normal conditions, to make the writing "completely" disappear... no solvent, no nothing!
Some personal experience: my colleague managed to smear the text just a little bit. His hands are constantly covered in emulsion made for CNC machining, while using them for high-torque fixturing. The combination of skin rubbing against it, machining oil and water mixture, and slipping due to torque is able to damage it. The effect is negligible so far but still noticeable. Not a big deal so far.
I have a set of these for Bike repair. The sleeves of the most common sizes got loose and slide off the l-keys. In my opinion the sleeves are not very durable, if used frequently...
These have lifetime warranty. I had the sleeve slip off one of mine; contacted Wera, they gave me an address to send the faulty one to and sent me a brand new one.
Thanks for the tests. I would have suggested a couple others. 1.As mentioned by many brake cleaner. 2. Brake fluid. 3.Plain ole motor oil. I really think repeated handling with greasy oily hands will eventually creep under the thermoplastic sleeve leading to slippage and not necessarily degrading of the material. Had they incorporated a step up at the ends of the sleeve that would probably help to minimize it sliding off but not for spinning. If anyone has had them sliding please comment im curious
@@GermanToolReviews Yes i have read that also. I was thinking more along the lines of it removing the print and doing it probably pretty quickly. I am still curious if these sleeves are susceptible to oil migrating under them and causing problems. I think a large portion of people purchasing these will be using them in an oil ridden environment. Thanks for all your great reviews and to the point presentations. Keep it up. 🙂
Someone may have pointed this out to you already and it's not really that big of a deal in your video as a whole (or even at all), but how you measured the Wiha key is roughly 1.155 time smaller than the actual largest width dimension.
i got a set of those, and i like the coulour coding. although i haven't tested the sleeves in harsh conditions, most annoying thing is: the sleeve catches the hole in the holder. so putting it back in is sometimes rather tricky, and i have thought of cutting it to an angle (like a pencil), to make it easier.
Good video. I was thinking carb and choke (chlorinated) cleaner or as Seth A said, the brake cleaner. Maybe try Muratic acid, though don't know why anyone would get that tool in contact with such an acid. Also wondering about Diesel fuel. Oh, and long exposure to UV, maybe from sitting on a bench with lots of exposure to sunlight.
Muriatic acid is used to clean scale build up off of stainless steel cylinder style ice machines. The top and bottom bearing is secured using hex bolts. The metal is rinsed with water afterward and then sanitized before retiring to service.
Try some real paint stripper. Dichloromethane, also called Methylene Chloride. Also try some Brake Clean. Sodium Hydroxide would be another good test I think. Maybe see how it reacts with calcium Chloride. And Ether, dont forget to try Ether
Yep, on the most common sizes the text is completely gone on mine. I even think it's because of the plastic (folding) holder, it's quite snug. Inserting and putting it back all the time causes enough wear i think. These are my favourite l keys, but i do wish they would've stamped them somewhere. Ink and laser etching sucks. In terms of solvent; brake cleaner and carb cleaner are nasty. Ammonia and hydrochloric acid are also two household chemicals you might put it through (not at the same time though, i think you get toxic gases when you mix those!) Anyway, thanks for your time as always. Really appreciate your videos!
Most of my hex key has lost all the text on the sleeve and to add injury to the insult, on two keys the sleeve slides off. My tools are subjected to mostly, but not only: dirt, solvents, petroleum products, cleaners, heat and various oils. Always cleaned after jobs and treated with Balistol. I do not recommend these keys for medium and heavy industries. Best suited for clean light industries or home workshop.
Yeah for super heavy use, Wera L-Keys might not be the best. Even the non-sleeved ones are laser-etched, which will probably wear off if its used everyday for many years. For something like that, maybe a nickel-plated Wiha would be better suited.
I don't think many plastics react with acids. Polymers normally break down when a plasticizer is leached out by a solvent, and they become brittle or sticky. Which solvent does the trick, and how long it takes, is different for all different types of plastics. If you know what type of plastic this is, you can search the contents of a book called "Compositional and Failure Analysis of Polymers: A Practical Approach" on Google. Acetone was a good choice, but it may take a few applications and a few days to show results. Gasoline and Brakleen are also tough, but evaporate quickly with incidental contact, which isn't a big deal. For hand tools a bigger problem is leaving rubber or plastic with a coating of oil, which has far more time to do damage while they sit in the drawer.
I don't understand why this is such a big deal. I never have to look at my hex wrenches to see what size they are. After using tools for a time, you can just tell by looking. Not to mention with these hex keys in particular the color would be better for identification than writing. Wera could however just make them to where the writing goes all the way through the plastic. That's the way they did the buttons on the Nintendo Switch (watched a JerryRigEverything video on it), so the writing never wears off.
I've been using a set of these on my dayjob as a mechanic almost daily for well over a year maybe even close to 2 years. I do like them a lot, especially the longer than standard hex key length. I do neither love or dislike the sleeves on them. In a rare case I've come across a situation where the sleeve didn't fit. It was for a pulley set screw. The sleeve is indeed narrower as the major diameter of the screw thread. It's the hole that has only clearance of the threads minor diameter. Just took a boxcutter and shortened the sleeve a bit. I care most about not stripping out bolt heads, and they still perform well. Mine do show fading of the lettering tough, at least the ones that get used most. Plain wear or chemicals, don't know. I regularly clean my tools in the parts washer. not sure what chemical is in it, I'ts an industrial degreaser.
Might be paraffin if it's engine wash.
It's more than likely HDPE plastic. Consequently that is what most containers designed to hold harsh chemicals are made of. HDPE plastic is UV sensitive and will become brittle. On a side note WERA doesn't offer any warranty on the L-Keys.
You all probably dont care but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow lost my password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Randy Julio instablaster =)
@King Alejandro I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@King Alejandro it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
@Randy Julio you are welcome :D
I have had mine for almost 14 months, since they came out, no wear issues or damage to the sleeves. I find one associates the color with the size after a while. It gets confusing though when using the metric and the imperial size, that have different colors. I think they are the best hex wrenches on the market, well made and very slip resistant.
Very nice review
This is why you're the best tool youtuber
Using these to setup lathes at my job have been pretty nice. There have been a few of them with nicked up and scraped up sleeves, but it's plastic vs aluminum & steel chuck jaws and tooling etc. To be expected. Only issue was with one of the sleeves being too thick when I tried to undo a hex cap screw deep in a tight bore, I had to shave the sleeve down to get in there. The biggest plus for me is Hex Plus. I have yet find another set of L-keys that engage with barely any play and very solid engagement. All the Bondhus keys around the shop work, but they just don't feel as good when I'm putting torque one it to tighten or loosen up a fastener.
PVC pipe cleaner dissolved the handles on my Knipex cobra's, try that.
Great review hex plus wera
Love wera l-keys been using them at work for over a year. Within the last month snapping ball ends off the sae set like crazy. Was wondering if they offer a full set of SAE with /64th sizes or ones with holding function?
I sometimes move up the scale with solvents I have on-hand while cleaning unknown stuff; Alcohol, Mineral Spirits, Acetone, then Lacquer Thinner. I think Lacquer Thinner will soften most PVC plastics and I avoid using it on tool handles and such.
Can you review Gedore DMU-20?
Do a dissolving test on the sanded area too. There might have been a protective layer before you sanded the material.
One argument I have is with the set screw; I have come across a few recessed set screws where the bore narrows to the lowest pitch of the thread and it was a security torx! Needed to purchase a Wiha T15 driver.
Is the text mark under the plastik too?
On metal?
I have a set and have had them for approximately a year. Without question the best Allen keys I've ever owned it puts bondhus to shame. However, even though they look lovely when new the identification on the sleeves rubs off within 3 months of heavy use and after 6 months the plastic slips off. The only Allen keys that this hasn't happened to is the 1.5 and 2.5 but that is because they rarely get used. The other issue is that when used now they tend to slip in the hand alot more which has on a couple occasions caused injury. And the other issue is that you can't throw away the sleeves because of the holder bit of a nuisance! If they get used on a regular basis get a set without the sleeves if they do some plus I find I can tell a size of an Allen key by just looking at them if you use them that often. If a hobbyist or used infrequently go for these you'll be more than happy.
what about DOT brake fluid? i'll tell you net time i bleed my brakes...
Oven cleaner disolves bone... Hmm good to know 😂
Very nice video.
I must be doing something wrong with these things. Within a week of use the sleeves were breaking up and damaged. Also I left them in my tool box in the garage and they were completely rusted. I live in a very dry place also very hot. I brought the stainless without sleeves and I’m very happy with them.
Brake cleaner would be my bet for something that could do damage.
If you look at, say Grainger’s website for the kind of cleaners industrial techs might use.
Hydraulic fluid?
Maybe send it to Scoutcrafter..... he’s got *all* the chemicals that tools might be subjected to.
Or gasoline/diesel
Brake cleaner (crc brakleen, the red can stuff (chlorinated)).
Diesel fuel.
Brake Fluid (DOT3/4).
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
What he said. Also various oils.
Remember, the hole diameter for a set screw is the minor diameter of the threads, not the OD of the set screw.
Good point
Plutonium slurry?
The sleeve becomes a problem when set/grub screws are below flush which often seems the case with set screws
You measured the major diameter of the setscrew but in order for the allen key to fit through the hole it needs to fit through the minor diameter.
Personally I got the stainless versions of teses L-keys and I'm very happy with them, the sleeved versions were more expensive and I didn't think to need those sleeves
Yeah I realized that after I finished. Was trying to measure the minor diameter, so it would probably hit.
I would consider trying a brake cleaner, a methylene chloride-containing paint stripper (Goof Off All Purpose at Lowes contains it), and a non-polar solvent such as toluene or xylene (the same Goof Off also has both).
Good call on the brake cleaner and methylene chloride, however, Goof-Off contains Acetone and Xylene as well as Ethylbezene and Methanol per the SDS. Wouldn't hurt to try it non the less.
Yes, i have seen brakleen react with many different plastcs. For starters. DONT get it on your phone screen! And it deforms rubber o-rings easily.
Nice video
You wanna see the Bondhus T handle keys. It only take two or three uses, under normal conditions, to make the writing "completely" disappear... no solvent, no nothing!
Some personal experience: my colleague managed to smear the text just a little bit. His hands are constantly covered in emulsion made for CNC machining, while using them for high-torque fixturing. The combination of skin rubbing against it, machining oil and water mixture, and slipping due to torque is able to damage it. The effect is negligible so far but still noticeable. Not a big deal so far.
Good to have you back, I was worried after you skipped last week ;)
Try using aviation hydraulic fluid, jet fuel for aviation techs when changing hydraulic/fuel pumps/solenoids if u can.
I have a set of these for Bike repair. The sleeves of the most common sizes got loose and slide off the l-keys. In my opinion the sleeves are not very durable, if used frequently...
Bono Bo Same here. If the text is gone fine. But sleeves that slide off is unacceptable plus render the tool holder useless.
These have lifetime warranty. I had the sleeve slip off one of mine; contacted Wera, they gave me an address to send the faulty one to and sent me a brand new one.
Skydrol hydraulic fluid used in certain aircraft systems causes that coating to get soft and sticky.
I wondered about that, thanks for the heads up
Brakleen reacts with many different rubbers and plastics. Also would have tried Gasoline and methyl hydrate (methanol).
Thanks for the tests. I would have suggested a couple others.
1.As mentioned by many brake cleaner.
2. Brake fluid.
3.Plain ole motor oil. I really think repeated handling with greasy oily hands will eventually creep under the thermoplastic sleeve leading to slippage and not necessarily degrading of the material. Had they incorporated a step up at the ends of the sleeve that would probably help to minimize it sliding off but not for spinning. If anyone has had them sliding please comment im curious
I had some brake fluid ready to try, but I read that it shouldn't do anything to plastics, just to paint.
@@GermanToolReviews Yes i have read that also. I was thinking more along the lines of it removing the print and doing it probably pretty quickly. I am still curious if these sleeves are susceptible to oil migrating under them and causing problems. I think a large portion of people purchasing these will be using them in an oil ridden environment. Thanks for all your great reviews and to the point presentations. Keep it up. 🙂
Someone may have pointed this out to you already and it's not really that big of a deal in your video as a whole (or even at all), but how you measured the Wiha key is roughly 1.155 time smaller than the actual largest width dimension.
Run for the Cube !!
i got a set of those, and i like the coulour coding. although i haven't tested the sleeves in harsh conditions, most annoying thing is: the sleeve catches the hole in the holder. so putting it back in is sometimes rather tricky, and i have thought of cutting it to an angle (like a pencil), to make it easier.
el uso correcto de esta llave L es longitudinal, no vertical, la llave es para espacios pequeños, se usa el lado pequeño no el lado largo
Chlorinated brake cleaner might dissolve it.
Was gonna just cut mine off when they get too tatty, can spot what size it is from experience so losing the text aint a big deal.
Good video. I was thinking carb and choke (chlorinated) cleaner or as Seth A said, the brake cleaner. Maybe try Muratic acid, though don't know why anyone would get that tool in contact with such an acid. Also wondering about Diesel fuel. Oh, and long exposure to UV, maybe from sitting on a bench with lots of exposure to sunlight.
Muriatic acid is used to clean scale build up off of stainless steel cylinder style ice machines. The top and bottom bearing is secured using hex bolts.
The metal is rinsed with water afterward and then sanitized before retiring to service.
I already put it outside, so we will know soon on how it holds up to UV.
Try some real paint stripper. Dichloromethane, also called Methylene Chloride. Also try some Brake Clean. Sodium Hydroxide would be another good test I think. Maybe see how it reacts with calcium Chloride. And Ether, dont forget to try Ether
Brake cleaner?
¿Gas?
Yep, on the most common sizes the text is completely gone on mine. I even think it's because of the plastic (folding) holder, it's quite snug. Inserting and putting it back all the time causes enough wear i think.
These are my favourite l keys, but i do wish they would've stamped them somewhere. Ink and laser etching sucks.
In terms of solvent; brake cleaner and carb cleaner are nasty. Ammonia and hydrochloric acid are also two household chemicals you might put it through (not at the same time though, i think you get toxic gases when you mix those!)
Anyway, thanks for your time as always. Really appreciate your videos!
PVC primer will go right through that cover.
Whats one thing to be careful of when buying wera tools? Be careful they don't wera way(wear away)! Aht aht aht!
Most of my hex key has lost all the text on the sleeve and to add injury to the insult, on two keys the sleeve slides off.
My tools are subjected to mostly, but not only: dirt, solvents, petroleum products, cleaners, heat and various oils.
Always cleaned after jobs and treated with Balistol.
I do not recommend these keys for medium and heavy industries.
Best suited for clean light industries or home workshop.
Yeah for super heavy use, Wera L-Keys might not be the best. Even the non-sleeved ones are laser-etched, which will probably wear off if its used everyday for many years. For something like that, maybe a nickel-plated Wiha would be better suited.
Wenn Sie das Alles versucht haben, dann sind Sie wirklich Wera nicht wert, Wera ist wirklich TOP!
H2SO4
It weras away.
I don't think many plastics react with acids. Polymers normally break down when a plasticizer is leached out by a solvent, and they become brittle or sticky. Which solvent does the trick, and how long it takes, is different for all different types of plastics. If you know what type of plastic this is, you can search the contents of a book called "Compositional and Failure Analysis of Polymers: A Practical Approach" on Google.
Acetone was a good choice, but it may take a few applications and a few days to show results. Gasoline and Brakleen are also tough, but evaporate quickly with incidental contact, which isn't a big deal. For hand tools a bigger problem is leaving rubber or plastic with a coating of oil, which has far more time to do damage while they sit in the drawer.
Baking soda does it.
fo shizzle?
¿Thiner?
If you're worried about the sleeve you can always get them without the sleeve.
I don't understand why this is such a big deal. I never have to look at my hex wrenches to see what size they are. After using tools for a time, you can just tell by looking. Not to mention with these hex keys in particular the color would be better for identification than writing. Wera could however just make them to where the writing goes all the way through the plastic. That's the way they did the buttons on the Nintendo Switch (watched a JerryRigEverything video on it), so the writing never wears off.
Gasoline, or kerosene.
Destructive tool tests, just make me so sad ;(
beats having to use the wood chipper in the middle of the night, for sure!