Cheap Aftermarket Junk!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2023
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@WrenchingWithKenny @snafuperformance2136 @traditionovertrend2704 #wrenchingwithkenny #wesselmotorworks #keepwrenching - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Can’t agree more! And be NICE to your local parts guy!! I’ve worked 30 years at the dealership parts department, and when you’re nice and respectful, we will do more for you than if you treat us disrespectful!
Well Dave you may be a great guy, but there are buttheads out there too, just like any occupation.
That golden rule applies to just about every situation
@@mph5896 AGREED!
@@partsdave8943 parts guys at dealers are terrific resources. I walk in, say hey I need a ptu seal kit for the pass axle on an explorer. They give me the reseal kit and tell me I need the seal that is sold separately as well. 👍
@@mph5896 some call that an “up-sale”.
I call that “happy customer that didn’t have to return as an uhappy/angry customer for more parts.” He/she WILl return in the future to make more purchases!
I came across your channel 2 weeks ago. I think this is my 5th or 6th video. I appreciate: 1 your experience and knowledge 2. No music and extraneous noise and talk. 3. Straight talk. 4. No watching the OBD download or 5 minutes of wrenching. 6. Showing me what your doing even when the camera makes it impossible. 7. DX, explain, fix. Result. End. Superb in all respects. Thanks. I'll be back.
I'm 47 and have been a mechanic my entire life. I've always put a brush coating of antisieze on every spark plug I have ever installed and have NEVER had a come back, rework, or issue.
Same here
@@PRO4XKEV yeah I know what it says. I'll use it till I find a reason not to after having to remove seized plugs out of heads because people didn't use antisieze, I'll stick to my way. Also it affects torque if you still use a torque wrench. I've been doing plugs since I was a kid and I don't need one. Never had one loose, leak, or over tightened.
@@PRO4XKEV have one seize and rip the threads and you'll change your mind.
@@PRO4XKEV Think of the type and level of oxidation that occurs when you put two dissimilar metals together like steel and aluminum. Go look at any tractor-trailer rig and look at the trailer. The aluminum skin has a layer of plastic between it and the steel frame and supports of the trailer, WHY you ask? Because just with moisture and sunlight the steel and aluminum will react and eat each other to death! NOW factor in the torque, forcing the bond even closer, the MASSIVE amount of acids produced in the combustion process, and the extreme heat! Had some trouble pulling threads when pulling old, untreated plugs? Or maybe you had to work the plug back and forth for 10 minutes just to get ONE plug to unscrew? That stuff that is keeping you from loosening the torque and just spinning the plug out, do you know what that is? That is the oxidation from the steel and aluminum locking the threads up, and possibly even removing what is left of the threads as you pull the plug! The fix is simple, put a dab of anti-seize on the plug, the rotation of installing it will put a super thin layer to protect the threads in the head, won't prevent heat dissipation of the plug, and won't cost you anything except the satisfaction of knowing that you are smart enough to put a bit of protectant on the threads without slathering it on and screwing up the grounding and effectiveness of the plug like NGK thinks you are not!
I've been a mechanic over 40 years and don't use anti seize on any sparkplug except on the 3 valve Ford engines and only on the non thread part per their tsb. Never had a problem. Just have to remove plugs once in awhile. Anti seize is a mess and especially on lugnuts. Use it on exhaust all the time.
I agree, I used NAPA as much as possible and they were invaluable when I was in a bind. In fact I ran an outreach to the community of Denton Texas called Fix My Ride. A group of volunteer techs came together on a Saturday and spent the day fixing safety problems for people who couldn’t afford the repairs. My NAPA manager had a dedicated guy to deliver to us all day, the manager sold everything at his cost as well as getting the various divisions of Genuine Parts Company to donate to the effort. Usually that amounted to over $600.00 in free parts. Every one from that store are like brothers to me, actually they are hero’s for doing above and beyond anything I could have imagined. There is a whole lot more than just parts cost to take into consideration in business. You sir are spot on in this video.
Great idea and a service to those who need help. That's what this world needs.
I once owned a NAPA store for years and they have the best prices for the most quality products period
The others use junk parts and there terrible quality and will give you hell
Sadly some pro mechanics report a number of NAPA parts ain't what they used do be.
@@markh.6687 That is true, the decision on what parts and where to source them was always a question. I decided using the failure rate of the parts., new only means new not necessarily good.
Thank you Kenny. You're a real honest guy and mechanic. Love watching your videos while I sit at my security guard job.
Always keep your old parts, even if a shop does the work, unless the part has a core charge, tell them you want your old parts. That way you make sure certain parts were changed too. In this case, maybe 2 or 3 coils were bad, that is a lot cheaper than buying 8. Just saying... thanks for the video. Let us know the outcome. I'm willing to bet those coils are the problem. What ever cylinder that plug you showed us wasn't firing or not firing properly.
The problem is when you own a shop and you want to send out a quality running vehicle. I personally as a shop owner recommended replacing all coil packs When one is bad. depending on the person's budget I will do just one if that's the problem but if 1 has failed the rest have the same mileage so we might be doing this again in a couple of weeks wasting the customer's money. But I understand that is expensive to just replace all of them. That is the choice that should be left up to the customer with a fair honest warning.
I'm a trained electronic tech as well as repairing cars since I was a teen, there is no way that antiseize will prevent that plug from firing. If nothing else, the bevel where the plug seals will make adequate contact.and you don't risk galling the threads by applying steel plug threads to aluminum head threads.I also make sure that I thread the plug in by hand until it seats.
Glad to hear that I was justified in going for the $40 ea. coils over the $30 for four. I figured the factory coils lasted twelve years, if I spend a decent sum I might get close to that again.
I'll
@@scottfisher9437 ????????????
I'll be home for Christmas
Coils and electronic parts, I now only get OEM at the yard if available. If I have to buy new, it's Napa only.
Thank goodness you were spared from the effects of that Lethal Voltage!
Kenny , maybe the "lethal" coil sticker is accurate ! I'm trying to diagnose this problem and it's "killing me" because of cheap parts !
Sometimes if you have health issues like having a pacemaker, the coils can be lethal. Just saying.
I went to work as a Chevy partsman straight out of HS.
In the 70's I went to the foreign side.
We saw problems with American brand plugs in aluminum heads. I was told Bosch and NGK plugs came with a light coating of antisieze already on them.
When the first Japanese parts hit our shores the English translation on the boxes was comical and they promised everything from more HP to MPG and your car would be a chic magnet :)
@@dalekundtz760 No unless the car is running and maybe you do something dumb like try to pull one off of a plug? Then again some people are dumb and might actually do that. Thus the warnings on lawn mowers not to use to prune bushes.
Thank you Kenny! Another great video with common sense advice and a huge dose of wisdom. You are very wise and back it up with real life experience! Thanks again for sharing.
Lethal wrenching with Kenny !! Ain't he the best !! 😅
I use rock auto for many purchases, unless there is a core charge. Return shipping will consume your core charge pretty quickly, depending on what your core charge is. In those cases, I buy locally and don’t even think twice about it. Keep on wrenching Kenny!
My A/C compressor went out in my truck and the Ford dealership wanted $700 for a new one. Rock Auto had the exact same one for $350 new in the box. Love Rock Auto. No issues with them so far.
Core charge return isn't a ton. Usually under $10 to ship it back. I do my best to return all my cores to get $ back.
I bought a rack and pinion with a $35 core charge and return shipping was $30 so I ended up just having a 5 credit on my account. So in my case it was a wash for all practical purposes. Enough for me to double check shipping versus core charges 👍
I will buy the OEM off rockauto any day, they are awesome, But If you can't afford a real part, go to a junkyard and get a used OEM part. It's way better than a cheap part. (Look at the wear on the rest of the car first you pull it from)
@@elliottscott6179 Heck yeah, salvage parts are the way to go sometimes. I just spent $50 at pick your parts today to help a friend out. $500 worth of parts for $50.
I learned my lesson on cheap parts after replacing the rear wheel bearings on my 03 Mountaineer 2 times in under 2 years. I did the work, and I've been wrenching for 30+ years, so they were done right. It was just substandard materials. I have a Chevy Express now, and I mostly only use GM genuine parts. It's my work vehicle, and it costs me more to have it down than the extra I'm paying for quality parts.
Your right. Spend the $ on quality parts. I'm sure you do quality work. So you're all set. Thanks for sharing your experience & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
I agree completely. I am 75 years old and have been working on my own cars for 60 years. I never buy the cheapest. My favorite saying is 'The cheapest is never the cheapest'. I have proven that true to myself many times over.
That's a great saying! It's so true! Thanks for your comment & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
Thank You Kenny for the true words of wisdom.
Much Love and Hugs
I like oem parts from the junk yard
Good point about using local parts stores I purchased front rotors pads and hoses and hardware for what I thought was a great price for my 97 Ranger 4x4 and the rotors where for a 98 & up. Since I made the mistake of not checking before tear down I was stranded and call the local auto retailer and they delivered the parts to my house for free and after checking the prices "INCLUDING SHIPPING" from the on line store I would have actually paid less if I purchased every thing locally lesson learned.
OEM is always the cheapest, not many reworks
Great content, keeping it real and not bought out! Keep it up.
I bought a set of coils for my '02 F150 4.6 from a company named Araparts for $67 three years ago, and they've worked flawlessly since! They came with a one year warranty, and Araparts guaranteed them to be quality ignition coils, and in my book, they were and still are!! 👍But I know what you mean - I stayed away from those really cheap coils for under $40! Like a lot of us mechanics always say - you get what you pay for!! 🙄
Way to call it out! When I was 17, I was very cost conscious and made those kinds of mistakes having to repeat the repair and learn the hard way. You're right. We are socially responsible as a car owner and a mechanic. Thanks for another great video!!
You ain't no mechanic Bobby...
thanks for the advice
I totally agree! There are a lot of good aftermarket parts out there but some parts should be replaced with OEM. Whenever I do plugs, I stick with Motorcraft for ford, Delco for GM, NGK/ Denso for the Asian imports etc.. The old saying "pay a little now or a lot more later" is true when it comes to junk parts. Good info Kenny!
I used antiseaze for years even on steel heads cause they go in without getting stuck half way in .
Excellent point Kenny, great tip! Factory or name brand performance that have reputable reliability. Yes pay more BUT! No worries and you have a good running engine!
I spent over $500 at O'Reilly's for Made in the USA Borg Warner coils for my V8 2001 Lincoln LS years ago. One of them was dead right out of the box. Another one failed two weeks later and a third one two weeks after that. Yes, of course they immediately gave me new ones, but it was still a hassle to have to keep replacing them not to mention running on 7 cylinders to get home each time.
A few years later I started a small used car lot selling low priced cars. I sold everything inspected and with a three month warranty. Needing to keep costs as low as possible, I bought a set of 8 coils for a Ford on eBay for $38 total with free shipping. Didn't even have a brand label on them. No dead ones, no failures, so I continued to use them on numerous Ford vehicles and never had any of them come back with a failure.
I'm not recommending the cheap stuff. Just pointing out that you cab buy cheap crap or you can buy expensive crap. Either way it's crap and you will have failures no matter what you buy.
I agree with the local parts guys. I use the copper never seize. A tiny dab and carefully pushing around the threads. Never had a problem.
Don't use copper. It reacts with aluminum. Use nickle based. It's high heat and doesn't react with aluminium.
@@stefanpuffer. Correct. I use either depending on the material on anything I want to come apart. Sorry I wasn’t clear
Great points! Buy it right once, not cheap twice.
Here are the rules for the most part when doing tune ups on Fords, especially the Triton engines. Number 1: change the plugs, Motorcraft only. No Autolites either, they are not good for those engines. Number 2: Change the rubber ignition coil boots. I can't stress this enough. The rubber becomes soft and pliable with age causing spark leak through and misfires.
It's possible you could have a coil fail, but it would most likely be a hard misfire that is there all the time. However, bad coils are far less likely to occur than worn plugs or bad coil boots. For the record, those coils you have are junk like you say. I do agree with their statement of "lethal voltage". Coil on plug ignition systems are pushing 100,000 volts, if someone is foolish enough to try removing a coil while it's plugged in and the engine is running, you could be in for a surprise. If someone had an unknown heart condition, 100,000 volts could have dire consequences.
Ifs its a Triton burny burny call insu.lol junk
Awesome video thank you
Luv this man. Excellent video like you were sitting down next the man talking...
More common sense, from the man who brings the knowledge! Sometimes, it seems like common sense just never took hold in some personalities.
Walking TALL in your truth, Kenny! Continue on, with a purpose!! 👍👌👏👏👏
love the way you think Kenny so true all of it!
Good advice
Thank s!!
Good info, sir!
💯 behind you on this. I never buy anything unless it’s dealerships parts . Toyota and Jeep
i use a very light coat of anti seize on the top threads for the spark plugs also i use teflon tape on the oil drain plug
Never had a problem with anti seize on spark plugs. I always try to use OEM ignition parts when possible. I have found the using cross reference plugs between brands often leads to drivability issues. Great video.
OEM on ignition/emission/fuel or its closest equivalent - most everything else aftermarket has served me well for a long time....where I get the parts varies on how soon I need them or if I want a warranty situation...great vid, many younger folk don't know the make of the part matters in application ....
Great video! You get what you don't pay for.
Very Well Put there Kenny......................OFF the HOOK Sir !!!!!
I agree brother! Keep the local stores in business!
Bernie Thompson copper anti seize works the best helps the spark and the grounding he said
I've solved my parts quality issue, I go to the local Ford dealer that gives anyone who orders online a discount of about 20%. When I rebuilt the front end of a 2004 I've since sold the Ford shocks and spring assemblies were actually the cheapest ones I could find that I thought were quality parts. My point being that buying cheap parts is usually more expensive in the long run. Keep the good stuff coming Kenny.
Ford parts counter is actually cheaper on alot of stuff compared to the corporate auto parts stores. 🙃 Quality is 100% better as well.
"My point being that buying cheap parts is usually more expensive in the long run." Precisely! Doing a job twice because you took a chance on El Cheapo (meaning questionable quality) parts is not exactly economical...
Kenny I used the detroit axle parts up here in michigan, great parts got 3 or 4 hub bearings for them so far no issues
Keep your fingers crossed. I used to work for them, and the quality of their parts is questionable at best.
Totally agree about about parts stores. Growing up, it was Toms Auto Parts. Tom never tried to sell you something he didn't think you didn't need. He would also offer technical advice if he thought it would help also. I remember a time I went in to buy batteries for a pickup I owned at the time
He recommended testing my existing batteries. Come to find out they were actually good enough to start a gas engine, however, because they were starting a diesel they were toast. And he recommended 1000 amp batteries instead of the 900 amp batteries I was replacing.
After working 41 years in automotive parts I completely agree with you. In most cases your parts counterman will tell you I’ve got some cheap parts or quality parts.
Very well said
YES! 100%! My local parts store, bends over backwards for me, very helpful people, I always buy from them. Unless they cant get it.
Same rings true in the electrical and plumbing trades as well. Cheap parts invariably cost more. So much so that I will only install them after having them sign that they take full responsibility for parts and labor cost when they fail. Had a Saab 95 Aero wagon, loved that car so much! The coil pack is very special on them and there are cheap ones to be had but they don't function like factory. The factory coil pack also monitors for pinging by monitoring the plug gap impedance in between ignition pulses. If the coil pack is crap this can effect the ignition timing and in bad cases result in engine damage.
Nice video. Everybody knows that placing a sticker with scary warnings and cool graphics on parts make them so much better, stronger, faster, etc. just like putting a racing stripe on a 1970's VW Beetle.
Absolutely true I use my parts store for about everything yep I at tines have to save for it but if it's wrong or doesn't work they usually make it right with no questions . Yes they know me when I walk in and always helpful. Yes I've done things for them too. Like change a headlight or battery taillight when they are short handed and don't have the time to help their customer I personally have no problem with it
Well I bought a set of performance wires for a good price , nice looking , for my 06 Sierra 5.3 and installed them and from the start I had misses . Waited till dark cranked it up and it looked like a fireworks show !! Learned my lesson on this one . Put AC back on ! I’m going to keep the wire set to remind me , if you know what I mean ..
Good video. I just replaced a driverside rearview mirror on my 2003 Taco. OEM $250. Chain auto parts store aftermarket $95 for the most expensive one. Easy changeout, works perfectly. However, down the road at 65 it vibrates so bad it's hard to see. Passenger side OEM rock solid. Can't win for losing.
Thanks for sharing God bless 🙏
Just in case there's someone here who still doesn't know, voltage ( in cars) usually won't kill you. Amperage will kill you. Over my career, I've taken the occasional 30 kv ignition spark hit, sure it hurts like hell, but I'm typing this with the same fingers many years later. On the other extreme, the 400 volts in a hybrid car battery can and will kill you if you let it. 120 volts from your wall outlet can kill you. Also, good advice on the online car parts issue. I usually tell even my co-workers ordering online is great, as long as only order things you wouldn't need to return. Belts, hoses, quality ignition parts, suspension parts, all good things. Just don't plan to return it, and certainly don't plan to return it for money back. It'll drive you crazy. Good job, Kenny!
Yes, did that once and it did hurt. Learned from my mistake. Don't do that.
I have an old 2005 blazer 4x4 winter beater if I need parts , its off to the junk yard .
I remember coming home with parts for a tune-up on my first car. I'd gone to the local discount auto parts store where they only sold junk.
Even though it was MY car, my father would NOT permit me to install the junk I'd bought. He convinced me to return it and then I went to the Ford dealership and paid a LOT more for eight plugs and wires, but the car ran better than before and I never regretted it.
All these years later, after seeing engine after engine with crummy aftermarket parts, I've told this story COUNTLESS times because I have not used aftermarket parts since.
Been wrenching40 + years and this Guy tells the truth in every way which I,ve been saying in all my years
The old saying you get what you pay for or you can pay me now or pay me later applies in our World everyday
02 mountaineer 4.6 put a set of Amazon coils in it. Paid $44.00 for 8 of them and 3 years later sold thr vehicle and not a problem. They are decent ones also
For my 2017 Tacoma the manufacturer recommends anit-sieze for plugs. Many others do as well.
For the most part, I agree with you. Sometimes though, people can't afford the more expensive local parts store brands. Have bought cheaper stuff to get my car running until I could afford the more expensive parts.
You can pay me now or you can pay me later comes to mind. Ok, they buy these cheap parts and they work "Ok" for awhile and then have to be replaced due to failure. So they've wasted the money from the first batch and now for a 2nd? No thanks. There is a reason for quality parts vs some cheap no-name.
I have used RockAuto for years and it’s always been a good experience knock on wood
We used anti seize on all sorts of things on S-58 helos, especially spark plugs and exhaust!
I live in the suburbs of Detroit and Detroit Axle as been around since 1917 I have many family members worked there and some still do, they make quality parts always have
When you read lethal voltage I cracked up laughing kind of like moe in that vid when he pumped the brakes in that chevy van
Completely agree with all points. I support and buy local on the majority of the parts I use on client's as well as my own vehicles, even local dealerships for some items. Like you, I also use Rock Auto for some things on larger projects and only if I can save the client some money but I never use the economy line. I also sift through information on various forums and other avenues of information but I am flabbergasted by the amount of erroneous information that people spew and even more baffled by those who take is as gospel.
Mike
I use rockauto alot, as i have older vehicles. But i always make sure to get name brand like moog, raybestos, standard, ect. A lot of these parts are new old stock, and by buying the name brand, i know im getting decent quality, as these i used in the service shops i worked in so i know what brands had consistent quality
Ordered a Moog ball joint dirt cheap (closeout) from Rockauto and it was missing the boot. They sent another one but took a week.
over the many years of car maintenance, one thing has been made clear to me, the cheapest part will always be oem. when it comes to aftermarket, it can be a minefield
From Leo: Long ago my standard answer at the parts store; "I want the best ones you got" . I have been burned too many times with cheap parts. I am not happy to donate free labor every time a cheapo part fails. Even the best parts fail sometimes, but not nearly as often as the cheapies.
I got an new ac compressor for an S10 with a bad clutch from Rock Auto, in less than a month it was leaking at the case seal ( obvious dye spot)
But because I didn't read the fine print and practically rebuild the system , i couldn't get a refund or replacement.
Long story short I used the good clutch on the old compressor and it's been good for the last year .
I learned a good lesson about online parts and the people who sell them.
Just had a bad deal with a online parts place. OEM parts. Long story. Ended up going down to that Auto parts House that starts with an O. Did not have a problem
Yup, you don't want to cheap out on coils and end up frying your computer. I've always used anti-seize, but with a toothbrush and sparingly.
You're absolutely right 100%a lot time's you have to use OEM
You are 100% correct.
I just put a pinch of antices on my face before going into battle.
And it tast pretty good too.
No auto parts store I know of warranties electrical parts, especially coils.
Nailed it.
I agree 100%. I have a 1978 MG Midget and gradually I'm finding bodged jobs which really annoy me. I don't buy cheap parts. My Midget is a classic car and needs genuine MG parts. Great job Kenny. Cheers from the UK.
I can tell you the Lethal Voltage is 102% true !
My neighbor keeled over this afternoon after trying to install a set in his Chevy Volt.
A good place to get original factory parts is the wreaking yard if the manufacturer has discontinued that part, depending on the part it's a gold mine
RockAuto has name brand parts too.... I bought front struts KYB for 07' Honda Civic Si. As close to OEM as you can get.
I use copper based anti seize compound on my plugs. No grounding issues.
Well said
I bought some front springs for my Freelander 1 and managed to put them on as I am getting old and my strength is not what it used to be and for the past three week every time I turned a corn I got a scraping sound so I got the son in law round and he took them off and looked at them and the paint was worn of the springs he looked at my old ones and said the new ones were too long and too wide and were catching on the inner wing that is the last time I buy of the internet so i know how you feel cheap Chinese are no good, thanks for the video
Antiseize is used on airplane engines. JUST a touch on the spark plug threads. If you paint parts with it, you are waisting it and you will cause problems.
8:45 Sometimes the thermostat is letting the engine run too cold and the vehicle never warms up enough to keep the carbon cooked off!
Modern spark plugs are coated when new and DO NOT need anti seize. The only caveat is it’s one time use. A tiny amount as you use won’t hurt anything however.
Just for the info. Take a good (FLUKE) multimeter, open a can of anti-seize and stick the probes in on the 20 Meg ohm setting - it will read infinity ... it is non conductive. Put the spark plug in the engine, and tighten it down to the torque specs. Now measure from the spark plug base to the engine. Good solid connection. You have less than 1/10,000th of clearance max. It now conducts! Then you put 60,000 volts across it. It will not hurt it. We had industrial furnaces, which were 600 degrees F on the outside, and 3,000 inside. No never-seize? Unheard of. Watched for 45 years as the furnaces ran full spark 24-7, not just a pulse - full time spark. When the ends burnt off, you change them. We used the silver anti-seize. 300-degree higher rating that the gold
When I was young, I remember my Father telling me that people who buy solely on the basis of price get what they so richly deserve. He also used to tell me that "good clean oats are always worth a fair price. Once they've been through the horse, they're considerably cheaper." Damned fine self taught "shade tree mechanic," taught me everything I know, and set me on course for a rewarding career as an Engineer. ...Sure do miss you, Dad!
Like scotty kilmer... he says he is a retired mechanic but have caught him so many times... bro you are exactly right
Scotty's just for fun - 95% of his videos are duplicates, 3% are rehashes, 1% original junk info and 1% original, useful information.
@Shado I agree totally.. I am a retired mechanic of over 30 years..I have caught him many times... if you notice he NEVER fixes anything on camera... only thing he does on camera is flap his arms like a chicken lol
@@davidr208 yep, he was one of the first guys I subscribed to for auto repair. After I found other channels, he got dropped!
Scotty Kilmer is not even an ASE certified technician or master tech. He worked at a service station doing a lot of common repairs like tune ups, brakes, tires, oil changes, suspension, etc.
I completely agree I tell my customers the same thing and I can save you money if you want to wait for me to order parts online. But If there's a problem it will take a long time to get your money back if theres a issue so pay more at your local part store from people you know and talk to everyday Usually pays off in the end. And I do not want to customer provided cheap parts I write it right on the repair order. No warranty on customer supplyed And if I don't like the way they look or have had previous bad experiences with those parts I will not install them.... I also install Detroit axle stuff from Amazon and have not had a problem yes it is not dealer quality but it's for people on a budget. I've not had a bad experience with it. You can order like an entire front end kit. You may not need everything out of it and end up with some spares. To stock.
I certainly have to agree with you about aftermarket, knock-off, Chinese parts! So much junk out there! When I changed out all 8 coils on my '98 Mercury Grand Marquis, the FoMoCo parts were almost twice as expensive as the next lower cost part. I decided to go with Denso coils knowing Denso is a major supplier to many OEMs, so they should be high quality. When I pulled an original FoMoCo coil and put it next to the Denso coil...they were EXACTLY the same (including numbers), except for the FoMoCo and Denso labeling! I guess we know who makes these FoMoCo parts under contract now. They were about only about 40% of the FoMoCo parts and have worked perfectly for the last 80,000 miles.
LOL Those are the exact same COPs I bought on Amazon about seven years ago. They were less than $40. They're still on my 2003 Grand Marquis and still working fine. The car runs better than my GF's 2014 FIesta.
A coil is a coil. As long as the wires aren't broken during winding, there isn't anything to break or wear out. It's wires wrapped around a magnet. Simple. If you want to pay a lot more for some wires wrapped around a magnet, you go ahead.
I have been wrenching my whole
Life, and have put anti seize on all the spark plugs I install and never had it cause issues.
Finding decent parts for imports at the local parts stores can be a struggle
In that case, get the parts from the dealer.
Some dealers sell WorldPac. Sometimes they are oem parts.
I had a fleet of f150s with the 4.6. Experience taught me to use nothing but Motorcraft plugs with a drop of antiseeze. Any other brand wouldn't last. I'm also a firm believer that you get what you pay for.
We used Autolites in our Ford's without concern. Seem to be very similar to the original Motorcrafts. I've been a mechanic for 40 years. Ran AC on GM vehicles if we could.
"Provided the customer wants me to do that because his bill is gonna be getting expensive". Well, how much has he wasted by taking to the other shop and then bringing it to you, plus SOMEONE put those suspect parts in it? How much did all that cost? If it needs to be done to correct the issue, AND prevent FUTURE issues, they would be smart allowing you to do it.
Some parts don't really matter-others there are night and day differences in them. Plus the warranty issues, as you mentioned. You have to find the balance of where to take the chance and where not to.
Great video Kenny!
Hi 😊 I'm an old retired mechanic and I totally agree whith you , ignition coil packs need to be 100% reliable, so I would never buy cheap ones, the agravation you'll get if you lose a cylinder just isn't worth what you saved, in fact that goes for any cheap parts, buy once, cry once. And keep your vehicle safe for you and others. Best wishes to you and your's, Stuart UK.
The moral of the story is you only get what you paid for Raffi and have a blessed day today 🙏