You could try digging out the amp and transistors and replace them. If that doesnt solve it then it's pretty much a write off given that the circuit board is encased in epoxy resin and sealing tar. Worth a try!
Output transistor and amplifier may require heat sinks especially if the bell is being run at max volume, thus the amp chip would be working at its limit. It’s the same with any audio amplifier; they all get warm if pushed.
Great video glad you fixed it! These things are EXTREMELY polarity sensitive you gotta be careful at all times when your monkeying with it.
Thanks. It wasn’t a polarity cause though. I accidentally touched the speaker output wires which then overloaded the transistor and amp.
I somehow shorted 3 bells in my entire time or railroading, 2 e bells and 1 mech bell and they still worked flawlessly, Just pure luck I'm guessing XD
I wonder if you'll buy Miller Ingenuity LED gate lights directly from their website
Not at this stage as they were never used in Australia so I don’t have much interest in them. They look cool though.
Interesting. I have a dead "type 3" board that only clicks when power is connected. You think it's fixable?
You could try digging out the amp and transistors and replace them. If that doesnt solve it then it's pretty much a write off given that the circuit board is encased in epoxy resin and sealing tar. Worth a try!
How’d it short? Power wires touch?
Speaker output .
Why do e bells use heat sinks? Do some of the parts heat up inside to the point that they need heat sinks?
Output transistor and amplifier may require heat sinks especially if the bell is being run at max volume, thus the amp chip would be working at its limit. It’s the same with any audio amplifier; they all get warm if pushed.
@@HybridBell ok
My brother owns a WCH bell that happened to he didn’t know how to fix it so I had to
1:53 too fast