Simply awesome. Highly technical stuff in very clear laymen's terms. I have a few big windows with about 5 inch window sills and would love to see how you built out the window plug for your window. The toggle plugs were exactly what I was looking for! But I'd love to see how you built out the inside of this window panel. I know you mentioned a few things about this at the 20 min mark but any other insights would help with this, especially how you made it look flush and seamless! Thanks so much again.
Thanks so much! Yeah, by the time I got to that point of my project I was tired and forgot to film it. I’ve been thinking of making a video about just that because so many people seem to have window issues… Basically, I made strips to go around the inside of the window and attached them permanently. They were recessed just enough so that a 3/4” sheet of MDF would sit flush. Then I put seals all around the strips so when the toggles press the MDF, it seals tight. Behind the MDF is essentially an MDF box that fits just inside those strips and is filled with Rockwool. It’s fairly heavy, so I added a couple of handles to pull it out. That’s it! Hopefully the text explanation makes sense…
@@JackofAllMinistries nice man. Well when and if that video does get made, ill make sure to check it out! An MDF or plywood "box" was originally what i was thinking, kind like the construction of an open cajon, filled with rock wool or fiberglass. Then i considered making modular removal wall units, with the handles and toggles you used, excecpt, instead of MDF, I was thinking of using a dedicated sound deadening drywall such as QuietRock (layered maybe with MLV and i would still fill with fiberglass). Any sound-related reasons you went with mdf or was it primarily for aesthetics for the inner-facing side?
@@mousch033 Good question, I honestly don’t remember. I think it may have been because I didn’t want drywall crumbling over time and I think MDF is better at dampening than plywood because of its density.
@@JackofAllMinistries It helped me decide on my non-structural sound proofing plan. I recently moved into an older wooden frame construction building and can hear my neighbors talk and watch tv from downstairs. My plan is to lay stieco sound absorbing floor underlay (help absorb my footsteps and maybe sound from below?) ontop of the existing carpet/vinyl, then on top of that lay cement board(for mass) Then finish it off with another layer of carpet and vinyl (for comfort). It won't solve all my problems as I have massive windows and a sliding door attached to the wall where my nieghbors tv is mounted. But its a first step. If that isn't good enough I plan to layer some sound absorbing sheet rock on existing walls (I can screw on without violating my lease) to help add more mass. That plus layers of area rugs, wall hangings, heavy furniture and small aquarium for white noise... might do the trick. Thank you if you read this post.
Thank you man, really did help. I’ve been stressing the F*CK out because i only have about $10-15,000 left in my budget and i feel like i need to spend $30,000 to do it but you really helped me realize i don’t need all the fancy stuff, normal stuff is just as good if you know how to apply it!!
I don’t know the answer for sure, but I know that vinyl polymers can have different densities. I’d be interested to test and compare their dampening abilities to their price points.
When you get impact noise from upstairs once it's reach your ceiling, could you then call it airborne noise, I'm just feel if you put resilient channel on existing ceiling for impact noise it's to late because the noise has changed.
I’d say you’re half right. Once the vibration LEAVES the ceiling it becomes airborne, but the purpose of the resilient channel is to create a gap BEFORE it hits the drywall. To install it, you have to tear down the existing drywall and install it in the joists.
Your content is awesome! I'm going to be making a movie theater in the basement and I'm worried that the subwoofer (SVS PB16) wont be controllable to the upstairs. Do you think with rockwool insulation and resilient channel to the ceiling would be a good enough boarder, or for a powerful subwoofer its not worth it? I'm very new to sound proofing.
Thanks for the compliment! Your plan will definitely help, but if I have learned one thing its that low frequencies are very very stubborn. Mass loaded vinyl would also be helpful, but that stuff isn’t exactly cheap. Keep in mind there’s also a good chance sound can work its way around that barrier too. It can go out the door, up the stairs, and leave you with the same headache you started with. Just remember the more mass and the more air tight the better. Good luck!
@@JackofAllMinistries Thanks for your response! I'd definitely add mass loaded vinyl if it would help. I can also do the walls how I do the ceiling as well. I'd rather spend the money I need to on the dampening. I just want to make sure its worth it for the sound that will be coming out.
So I just moved DIRECTLY over a club in downtown. The vibration and noise has caused me several mental and physical health issues. Is there anything I can do?
Honestly, there are things you can do but none of them are easy or cheap. I’m assuming because it’s a club, there’s some pretty heavy low frequency bass coming through the floor. That is incredibly hard to stop, especially with existing construction. I’m also assuming it’s a rental situation, so ripping out the floor would be a no-go? The best thing I can think of (other than moving to a different home) would be to build some kind of an isolation chamber, like in a closet or something big enough to where you can sleep in it. Even then it would cost some $$$ and it would still probably be disappointing. On the cheap, I just got back from a road trip and my noise cancelling headphones were very helpful. Sorry man, wish I could offer up better suggestions.
My problem is upstairs crackheads stomping. Neighbors slamming doors. Low frequency jumping. 24/7 noise. I can't take it anymore. It's causing me to hate coming home.
@raisingreendragonzmyself That is horrible, and definitely one of the hardest things to stop without some serious reconstruction… I hope you find the best possible solution and quickly!
Not really. At that point of the project I wasn’t doing my due diligence with the camera. The footage on my Studio Build Part IV is about the best I got - and I think you already watched that one. Sorry for being so lazy!
@@JackofAllMinistries do you Think I could use the BESSEY STC-HH /70 like you use your clamps? I mean, are they the same type and could substitute the clamps you are using?
Hey you might already have this in the works but I was wondering if you had a video with more information about the air conditioning in your studio, how you set it up, and keeping the soundproofing etc. My other question is about the electrical how your wired it all to be optimal for your studio and what materials are needed to get that job done during the build. Hope to hear back soon loving your content, you do a great job at breaking everything down getting the point across. Keeping everything cost effective too, awesome work keep ‘em coming!
I actually don’t have any plans for that. The reason is that I’m not very happy with the way it turned out. The channel I made in the wall is too small for it and it kicks out the breaker. I plan to get a smaller unit to see if that helps.
Amazing content that isn't easy to find. Nice job! keep it up
Thanks so much!
Simply awesome. Highly technical stuff in very clear laymen's terms. I have a few big windows with about 5 inch window sills and would love to see how you built out the window plug for your window. The toggle plugs were exactly what I was looking for! But I'd love to see how you built out the inside of this window panel. I know you mentioned a few things about this at the 20 min mark but any other insights would help with this, especially how you made it look flush and seamless! Thanks so much again.
Thanks so much! Yeah, by the time I got to that point of my project I was tired and forgot to film it. I’ve been thinking of making a video about just that because so many people seem to have window issues…
Basically, I made strips to go around the inside of the window and attached them permanently. They were recessed just enough so that a 3/4” sheet of MDF would sit flush. Then I put seals all around the strips so when the toggles press the MDF, it seals tight. Behind the MDF is essentially an MDF box that fits just inside those strips and is filled with Rockwool. It’s fairly heavy, so I added a couple of handles to pull it out. That’s it! Hopefully the text explanation makes sense…
@@JackofAllMinistries nice man. Well when and if that video does get made, ill make sure to check it out! An MDF or plywood "box" was originally what i was thinking, kind like the construction of an open cajon, filled with rock wool or fiberglass. Then i considered making modular removal wall units, with the handles and toggles you used, excecpt, instead of MDF, I was thinking of using a dedicated sound deadening drywall such as QuietRock (layered maybe with MLV and i would still fill with fiberglass). Any sound-related reasons you went with mdf or was it primarily for aesthetics for the inner-facing side?
@@mousch033 Good question, I honestly don’t remember. I think it may have been because I didn’t want drywall crumbling over time and I think MDF is better at dampening than plywood because of its density.
JOAM is like a doctor doing a diagnosis. Most sound remediation uses a shotgun approach. This is very well thought out.
That's quite a compliment. Thanks so much for saying that!
Honestly the best sound proofing guide on TH-cam
Thank you so much! Glad it was helpful!
@@JackofAllMinistries It helped me decide on my non-structural sound proofing plan. I recently moved into an older wooden frame construction building and can hear my neighbors talk and watch tv from downstairs. My plan is to lay stieco sound absorbing floor underlay (help absorb my footsteps and maybe sound from below?) ontop of the existing carpet/vinyl, then on top of that lay cement board(for mass) Then finish it off with another layer of carpet and vinyl (for comfort). It won't solve all my problems as I have massive windows and a sliding door attached to the wall where my nieghbors tv is mounted. But its a first step. If that isn't good enough I plan to layer some sound absorbing sheet rock on existing walls (I can screw on without violating my lease) to help add more mass. That plus layers of area rugs, wall hangings, heavy furniture and small aquarium for white noise... might do the trick.
Thank you if you read this post.
Sounds like a solid plan! It’s always tricky when you have to deal with a landlord. Best of luck on being able to live in some peace and quiet!
Thank you man, really did help. I’ve been stressing the F*CK out because i only have about $10-15,000 left in my budget and i feel like i need to spend $30,000 to do it but you really helped me realize i don’t need all the fancy stuff, normal stuff is just as good if you know how to apply it!!
Glad I could help! That whole $$ thing is what got me started looking at alternatives in the first place. So much money is wasted out there…
I feel like MLV and rolled vinyl flooring is the same. Especially if you buy a 5mm floor. It’s just mass right?
I don’t know the answer for sure, but I know that vinyl polymers can have different densities. I’d be interested to test and compare their dampening abilities to their price points.
When you get impact noise from upstairs once it's reach your ceiling, could you then call it airborne noise, I'm just feel if you put resilient channel on existing ceiling for impact noise it's to late because the noise has changed.
I’d say you’re half right. Once the vibration LEAVES the ceiling it becomes airborne, but the purpose of the resilient channel is to create a gap BEFORE it hits the drywall. To install it, you have to tear down the existing drywall and install it in the joists.
Great information! This video was very helpful for me, thank you for sharing.
My pleasure! Glad I could help!
Very informative. Thank you! 😉🤙
Glad it helped!
im gonna try using an exterior door for the inside
The denser the better!
Your content is awesome! I'm going to be making a movie theater in the basement and I'm worried that the subwoofer (SVS PB16) wont be controllable to the upstairs. Do you think with rockwool insulation and resilient channel to the ceiling would be a good enough boarder, or for a powerful subwoofer its not worth it? I'm very new to sound proofing.
Thanks for the compliment!
Your plan will definitely help, but if I have learned one thing its that low frequencies are very very stubborn. Mass loaded vinyl would also be helpful, but that stuff isn’t exactly cheap. Keep in mind there’s also a good chance sound can work its way around that barrier too. It can go out the door, up the stairs, and leave you with the same headache you started with. Just remember the more mass and the more air tight the better.
Good luck!
@@JackofAllMinistries Thanks for your response! I'd definitely add mass loaded vinyl if it would help. I can also do the walls how I do the ceiling as well. I'd rather spend the money I need to on the dampening. I just want to make sure its worth it for the sound that will be coming out.
@@michaelfrank9820 Absolutely! The fun part would be the door. That’s often the weakest point, but there are lots of cool ideas around that.
So I just moved DIRECTLY over a club in downtown. The vibration and noise has caused me several mental and physical health issues. Is there anything I can do?
Honestly, there are things you can do but none of them are easy or cheap. I’m assuming because it’s a club, there’s some pretty heavy low frequency bass coming through the floor. That is incredibly hard to stop, especially with existing construction. I’m also assuming it’s a rental situation, so ripping out the floor would be a no-go? The best thing I can think of (other than moving to a different home) would be to build some kind of an isolation chamber, like in a closet or something big enough to where you can sleep in it. Even then it would cost some $$$ and it would still probably be disappointing. On the cheap, I just got back from a road trip and my noise cancelling headphones were very helpful. Sorry man, wish I could offer up better suggestions.
In the same boat with the lower frequency sounds, the annoying heavy vehicles etc
My problem is upstairs crackheads stomping. Neighbors slamming doors. Low frequency jumping. 24/7 noise. I can't take it anymore. It's causing me to hate coming home.
@raisingreendragonzmyself That is horrible, and definitely one of the hardest things to stop without some serious reconstruction… I hope you find the best possible solution and quickly!
Do you have a video about how you made that window blocker you show at 16:07?
Not really. At that point of the project I wasn’t doing my due diligence with the camera. The footage on my Studio Build Part IV is about the best I got - and I think you already watched that one. Sorry for being so lazy!
@@JackofAllMinistries do you Think I could use the BESSEY STC-HH /70 like you use your clamps? I mean, are they the same type and could substitute the clamps you are using?
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Hey you might already have this in the works but I was wondering if you had a video with more information about the air conditioning in your studio, how you set it up, and keeping the soundproofing etc. My other question is about the electrical how your wired it all to be optimal for your studio and what materials are needed to get that job done during the build. Hope to hear back soon loving your content, you do a great job at breaking everything down getting the point across. Keeping everything cost effective too, awesome work keep ‘em coming!
I actually don’t have any plans for that. The reason is that I’m not very happy with the way it turned out. The channel I made in the wall is too small for it and it kicks out the breaker. I plan to get a smaller unit to see if that helps.