Everything That Goes Wrong With A PORSCHE BOXSTER (986) BUYERS GUIDE
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2024
- ALL the common issues you need to know if you're looking to buy a 986 Porsche Boxster.
Considering Subscribing? Whether you're buying a Ferrari or Ford our Buyers guides will make sure you know what to look out for!
---
Follow us on INSTAGRAM ► / scottishcarclan
Facebook instead? ► / scottishcarclan - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Considering the price bracket the 986 is within, and the very affordable aftermarket parts available, it can hardly go wrong.
IMS & bore scoring, forget about that, just as the cylinder liners dropping. Any 986 still alive is not affected by these issues. As any M96 engined vehicle, if the AOS has not replaced, this needs doing. This is a DIY job.
The 986 is bullet proof !❤
I have a 2001 Boxster S. The color is identical to the one in this video, Zanzibar Red. I’ve replaced the clutch (had some minor chirping) the throw out bearing rear main seal, inner half shaft boots and IMS all at the same time. I also had some water on the floor from rain; it fried the computer. But, the car is a joy to drive. I don’t drive it much (I have 42K miles on it) but make sure that I take care to drive it from time to time and change the fluids regularly.
The original IMS bearing is not lubricated by engine oil. It's a sealed bearing lubricated with grease. The seal can fail through infrequent oil changes, allowing the grease to be flushed out by the hot engine oil which then provides insufficient lubrication, leading to bearing failure.
The hollow IMS shaft is sealed at both ends, during the heat cycling the engine experiences, the air inside the IMS shaft heats up, expands and finds its way out thru the IMS bearing seals. When the engine cools a vacuum is created inside the shaft sucking oil into the bearing dissolving the lubricating grease. Repeated over hundreds of heat cycles the grease is completely washed out being replaced with old oil that never gets changed as it is trapped by the seals. This oil degrades over time and eventually leads to bearing failure. As mentioned in the piece this failure is more common in lightly used cars which have presumably benefited from more frequent oil changes which indicates oil change intervals is not the problem.
I don’t disagree but my facelift 2003 2.7 IMS failed - car had only done 36K & fully serviced 2 owner car. Beware.
After a truly disastrous experience of owning my Boxster S for just 600 miles and a month, check the caps for mayo (both caps). Even though I had mine inspected, the inspector either didn't check this or didn't notice the mayo that had built up on the coolant cap. I had the AOS checked which was fine, meaning that the cylinder head was cracked, requiring an engine rebuild. I also had a lot of water ingress behind the passenger seat. Underneath the passenger seat is a module that controls the cars security systems. Quite an expensive fix if it gets waterlogged. I ended up selling my supposedly "good" Boxster S for a big loss. Be careful, these cars can bankrupt you!
For water infiltration in the car, under the seat, it is necessary to check from time to time that the rainwater evacuation holes are not blocked, otherwise the water overflows from the gutters and enters the cabin. little check easy to do from time to time. If your car is sleeping in a garage, you have little chance that the water drains will clog or that the water will overflow. If she sleeps outside, there you have to check more often.
In order not to be bored with the mechanics, you should not buy a 986 Boxter with a low price, if the previous owner took care of his car, he will not sell it at a very low price. It is necessary to favor well-maintained vehicles, therefore necessarily more expensive. The interior and exterior condition of the car says a lot about its owner.
@@vincentidf2259 hi mate, I did unblock the holes but the problem persisted. However after the engine failure I didn't pursue it further. However I agree I would personally avoid cheap Boxsters'. I've had to learn a very painful and expensive lesson.
@@tameracingdriver Hi
Repair costs and the price of parts are often high, do not allow you to consider a vehicle at a lower cost and then to consider doing the work to upgrade the vehicle.
Frankly, the Boxster is a good vehicle, a reliable car if the interviews are well carried out and the wearing parts replaced on time. Sorry, your experience with this car was unpleasant.
Sounds like your professional ‘inspection’ missed some basics. The cylinder head is a known weakness on these. A basic sniffer test would have detected cylinder head issues. What did the inspector do exactly? Kick the tyres and take it for a drive around the block?
@@Theoriginalramjammer sadly mate my professional inspector was in fact just a glorified tyre kicker as I found out to my cost. Sadly their terms and conditions meant retrieving any money was highly unlikely. A very harsh lesson learned on my part 😔
My compliments on a very good video. I'm considering one of these cars in the states and you've provided very good information with the pertinent items I need to be looking for. Keep up the good work!
Excellent guide - I am currently looking for a 986 so this will give me some useful things to look out for.
Excellent video. Just shopping for an Early car, this gives me confidence in what to look for.
Your accent is awesome
May I say , Thanks for the time
and trouble you have spent on the love of letting us know about how to get a good deal on a P Boxster . Well done 👏
Thanks for a great video with very clear, important buyer's tips. I've always had a soft spot for the Boxster ever since first driving one back around 1998. I am currently looking around for a good one, so this video was spot on.
Just to add the 2.5 is the best, has shorter gearing whereas the 2.7 really feels slow through the gears due to tall gearing. The ‘S’ is not too bad but still has tall gearing and still doesn’t feel that quick.
The 2.5 also had a proper cable throttle, better IMS and is lighter. They also have levers for the frunk as opposed to electric switches for the later models, essential for when you have a drained battery, makes it much easier to get to the battery.
If you fit a 2.7 exhaust to a 2.5 it adds a bit more grunt and response as the 2.5 has smaller bore piping, strangling it a bit, they breathe better with 2.7 exhausts.
With the shorter gearing it’s much better when you add a lightweight flywheel too. Makes it more fun than the 2.7 and 3.2, responding better, revving quicker, and with shorter gearing.
Not quite as quick as a 3.2 but more focussed and more fun for a proper car enthusiast that likes driving and not posing.
Thank you good to know. I'm looking at a 2.5 and thought I was missing out! I'll take the gearing!
Gearing is short in my 1998 986 but you get used to it, I go from 1st to 2nd immediately and if I'm moving at all 2nd is fine. I use 5th over 70mph as well.
The trunk & hood release levers on 2.5L WILL stick in the locked position when the battery dies. There's no emergency power injection terminal in the fuse box on the 2.5. Do extend the emergency hood release wire, hidden behind the bumper cover, so it can be accessed by the town eye socket.
@@sununtaschnittker6469One can quite simply skip 1st altogether....You'll achieve the quickest 0-60 run with no gear shifting
Had two 2004 S boxsters and bro has an 08 987 S
Both faultless but did buy with new clutch/ flywheel/ IMS done both times
First wrecked by a Stag , second hopefully will last longer than 7 years
Fabulous cars and this video covers EVERYTHING you need to know 😎
Thank you very much for commenting mate
😁👍🏼
Just a tip ..I did 160,000 miles in my 987 and never had a clutch , therefore nobody looked at my ims .. My ims didn’t break , lucky me , it started to make a noise .. So even if you don’t need a clutch , 60/70,000 , open it up and check that IMS
Great content! Thank you for taking the time to do this. Very helpful to anyone looking at the 986 Boxster.
A couple of comments about the convertible top… I think a few others have covered it here, but at approximately 8:35 we can see that the convertible top bead is on the outside of the window frame. There are a couple things to look out for on these cars. 1. The problem seen here, is easily rectified by replacing the elastics inside the roof that keep detention on those convertible top beads. 2. If those are left unrepaired water can get into the back area where the convertible top recesses into. If the two drain channels, which are approximately above the side intake and exhale vents for the engine are clogged that water has nowhere to go but under the seats in the main compartment. There are electronics under those seats which can easily get fried… And it’s not an inexpensive proposition to repair them. 3. So it’s always a good idea to blow air down those vents and make sure they are cleaned out. Especially if you leave the car out during weather. 4. The reason for the out of alignment issue on the convertible top, and therefore the popping sound, is that the little plastic cups that are attached to the actuator that raises and lowers the roof can break. If one breaks, then the top goes wonky. They are generally inexpensive to replace, and most people can do it themselves. Best to replace both at the same time as that plastic can get old and brittle. It is made to be sacrificial because those plastic cups snap onto a metal ball joint.
There are a couple of other things I would’ve focused on. The coolant pipes, and the radiators at the front end of the car can get compromised by rocks and corrosion. Always good to give those a look. It’s also always good to give a long look under the car from front to back to check for any damage or missing under panels. There will likely be scrapes under the nose of the car as it’s so low to the ground. That’s not a huge issue especially for cars this age.
As noted by another commentor, sometimes it will cost some money to bring the car up to current spec. Factor that in your overall budget. That might mean spark plugs, coil packs, serpentine belt, replacing tires that have aged out by their date code, brake, flushes, and coolant flushes. It’s all typical stuff, it just needs to be budgeted for and you’ll be a happy Porsche owner.
Thanks for the video and some of the common problems you pointed out. I’ll stay away from this Porsche do to some of this issues are not exactly do it yourself friendly and that means 1000 of dollars in repair bills here in the US.
Great video! I loved my 99 Boxster. Never had a thing go wrong. Oh, wait, that's not true... it needed a new gas cap!
What a beautiful example! Lovely red colour.
I got a 986 in February and its been absolutely amazing! I got it cheap because if small door dents but mechanically its mint. All issues have been fixed and now its my daily driver
how’s it going
@@dooli lmao right bro i doubt we will hear from him abt it
@@Qyy0 fr like if i could daily drive a boxer to college id be the happiest mf alive
@@dooli dead ass
Wonderfully useful video! Also a great car for smaller sized people... thanks for such an informative video. Looking for a Boxter S
I just bought 2003 boxster 3 years ago. Now is 2023. Hmmmm its getting a cruisin classic sports car. 😃 at least for hang out in a coffe shop.
Like this video. I experienced the IMS problem just as you describe it. I had 1997 and 1999 boxster. No problems at all and very reliable. My 2005 987 S's IMS blew out at 70 t km immediately after my prolonged warranty expired after 4 years. Great fun to drive though.
Good coverage of faults - make sure you buy exact part number MAF for year, they changed them and won't run well if mixed. Ignition barrel electric switch faults and on tiptronic selector rusts on overhang at rear of engine. Disconnecting battery and alarm wont stop? Disconnect battery with key on engine off. The two pram ball joint plastic links to the hood break - you can replace with metal ones
I am a huge 986 Boxster fan and finally getting one December (yea I know it’s winter I’m hoping to get a good negotiation strategy together hahahah).
I’ve done a lot of reading and watching of videos and you have done a simply impeccable job of pointing out the basics and WHY the concerns are there in the first place.
One thing you could consider is mentioning the Tiptronic auto gearbox as it’s got a really decent reputation.
These cars are the 944s of 20 years ago. Couldn’t give them away now a decent one is BIG money.
Thanks for the video and a sub from me ! Thanks. Smart E.R.
Ive always had a soft spot for these, i ended up stretching my wallet a bit further and got a 370Z convertible, an excellent alternative, and reliable 😊
Excellent list of tips, thanks! I hope you can find a taller tripod soon! 😆
I was gonna look at an ‘01 but after watching this video I’m not sure if I want to anymore. Too many things can go wrong and I know it’s going to be expensive to fix it. Good video though.
Rear strut mount failures are also common too! You’re hear the suspension clunking. Putting the top halfway up to service mode will allow you to inspect them for cracks!
Another poster already mentioned this, but notice at 8:37 the roof beading sticks out, which is a common problem and a sign that (typically), the tensioning cable is stretched.
I had a 99, 2.5 Triptronic S, fantastic car, in 8 years of ownership driving it daily only two issues were water pump went and stereo not automatically switching off leaving the battery to be drained. Fantastic car.
Brilliant video, the only thing I would have added was the roof drain channels . Where they are and how to make sure they are cleaned out.
Good point !
also rain gutters can get clogged which is what causes the water ingress behind the seats so get those unblocked to save any hassle
I get my 2002 Boxter soon with only 20k km on it, first hand from a family member who knows his stuff. Absolutely amazing car!
I’ve had my ‘98 Boxster for over 7 years now. Got it with 54,000 miles now at 82,000. Only issues so far have been a failed pulley on the serpentine belt. It was an easy fix and quite affordable as well. Heading out today on a sunny Monday here in New York State.
I bought a 2.7 986 4 years ago. My first bill was £2700 to get it up to standard, replacing brake lines, some other bits and pieces.... Service it every 6 months, regardless mileage... Replaced things like radiators , steering wheel squid, etc... Not even sure how much to be honest, although of course I have the invoices, haven't added them up... Now it's at Williams Crawford to do IMS, RMS, and some other things that may show up .when they put the car on the ramp... I'm guessing around £5000... After all that, I still LOVE it, and I do understand that it's a 20 year old car that needs to keep up, and Porsche is not a cheap car to look after..... If we do the maths, it doesn't make any sense, but I don't think that's the point owning a modern classic.. 🤘
P s. ... if I have had a engine failure I would be very crossed... Luckily 2.7s are less likely to bore score... 😜🤔🤞
I’m 18 and was looking at a 986 2.5L, what you said was very relatable for my situation as I’m saving up to buy the car myself and I’m aware how much they cost to maintain but I absolutely love the car. Would you have any advice for me buying one to avoid as much issues as possible (I’m buying the 2.5L as the insurance group is much lower than the 2.7 etc
@@keelanvarley7325 I would say buy a car that has a good service history. If possible do a pre-purchase inspection, so you can negotiate if something shows up. I wouldn't bother to mileage that much... sometimes cars that stay still for too long can have more issues than the ones that are on the move ... Good luck :)
@@inglaterracaipira4357 thanks a lot I really appreciate the help, last thing, ik you say mileage isn’t a big issue but is there any amount where u just wouldn’t bother looking e.g. 150,000+?
@@keelanvarley7325 I think a car that was driven around 5k miles per year should be fine... Therefore, a 20 year old car with around 100k miles I wouldn't consider 'high mileage '...
@@keelanvarley7325 I'd rather buy a well serviced, well maintained tidy car with 150K miles on the clock than a (likely more expensive) badly maintained car with 30k.
Great advice….thanks
I already own a C4 Corvette but I would absolutely love to see this format of video for it too!
C4😮💨😮💨😮💨 what color?
@@OGDeepStroke Aqua Metallic! It’s a very dynamic color at night it’s a deep navy and in the day it’s very Aqua :P if you want you could use mine for a video! I’m out in Utah though.
Had a couple of Boxsters, both a joy to drive and the handling is unbeatable. Interesting bills were ever present but once the hard stuff was done it was usually down to tyres and fuel.
The engineering is in some places very clever, easy out headlights and stuff, in other places oddly poor like the IMS/RMS and as also pointed out the front rads.
I'd have another one any day, but currently EV'ing.
Only gone and bought another one!. Almost everything underneath needs to be replaced - might even start my own channel there's so much work to be done!🤣
@@BlackBuck777do it I just bought one and it would be nice to see someone fixing there's up because I know mine will have problems
Lol guess what, I got another one (2002 2.7)! Full suspension overhaul under way. So much to do but I'm enjoying it. Good luck with yours.
Great video
Thanks!
I got an NC MX-5, very reliable and no worries about engine failure or leaking bearings. After watching this video I think that Boxster's are a potential money pit and are froth with big issues that require constant monitoring by Porsche mechanics ($$$). My MX-5 may not be as fast or as much of a head turner as the Boxster but then again, I am not too hung up on Logos so I don't need the badge to have fun.
Loads of car for the money! Incredible value
Keeps me in check . Not to buy German. Had three bmw and an Audi. Work money and more money thrown at them constantly. I'll stick with Ford or Toyota/Lexus.
Have a 1999 boxster 90,000 miles. Haven't had to deal with any real issues other than maintenance. Just keep them moving. Letting them be garage queens is the reason you get failures. Also, don't be afraid to rev it out, it lubricates the IMS bearing as well. At this point my clutch is going to fail before my bearing. I'll end up swapping that when I do the clutch.
I’m looking at one that has been driven now and again but is 2004 and 35k miles! Should I leave it alone?
@06comment Definitely try to find one that has it replaced preferably with the oil fed bushing solution. There's definitely a risk when buying these cars without a replacement having been done unless it's an earlier dual row bearing car.
The 1999 IMS bearing is a sealed unit, which does not require lubrication ..😊
@thefreedomguyuk True unless you remove the cover for it. Some people do that to allow for oil to get into the bearing and provide the lubrication it needs. Better than trusting the 20 year old grease that's sealed inside.
Seems like nitpicking of such a beautiful car. Looks great in the video but @9:50 I saw the same problem with the roof with the elastic band that I just fixed on mine.
Bought a '99 986 with a 2.5 about 3 months ago.
Love it to death and hoping for the best. 😅
Hi Grant, Thinking of getting an 08 plate Boxster RS60 Spyder special edition. Any problems on them i should worry about?
Cheers,
Allan.
Top Video, well done. Can you lower the background music in the edit for future videos, maybe? It was hard to follow the speech :(
Your roof is busted on the passenger side, that piping is supposed to sit under the plastic. You'll get a soggy passenger carpet and eventually your control module under the seat will corrode to death.
Sorry, small mistake here, but the IMS bearing is a sealed bearing with grease inside, but the seal might get compromised by contaminated engine oil and the grease is flushed out.
That is, when the bearing gets lubricated to a certain extent by the engine oil, but will fail eventually.
Regular oil changes once a year (instead of the two-year service schedule) is a measure to prevent this.
If the seals are not removed the oil in the bearing and shaft itself will never get changed, oil change intervals is not the problem. Ball bearing can live long and happy lives lubricated with engine oil only if it is fresh and clean neither one of which can happen with the oil seals in place.
You are right, the bearing is 'sealed'. Frequent oil changes won't help. Think about this long and hard.
Good guide, but you missed a big problem with the top that is shown right at 9:18 in the video. The top jumps out of the the track for the guide wire.
You can fix this problem easily yourself by tightening the elastic strap on the inner side of the top, or if it’s worn out and broken by sowing or stapling the rear ends of that strap. Several videos of solving this problem on YT! Success fixin’it😉
Beck Porsche 550 Spyder : )
a week to late for me but good video
what year and color is this example?
Problem is the 2000 model has a mixture in different bearings and they did not keep track.
So...........?
Lol I saw this car on parked like a twat Dunfermline 😂😂 some reg and everything haha. Nice one mate
Is the IMS bearing gold in color because it is brass? If so, maybe that's part of the issue. If I remember correctly, brass "work hardens", i.e. the more it wears the harder/more brittle it gets. I feel silly, but I'm having trouble determining what it's made of- after looking it up.
It's steel (steel balls to be precise).
@@lindsaydobson ok, thanks. That makes more sense. 👍
They are nor brass but by the time metal flakes show up in the oil and filter they are discolored by the heat of failure so appear gold.
@@richardcalon3724 thank you 👍 that makes sense.
misfire on 2,3,4,5 and not the other 2 cylinders. What do you think is the reason for this. Obviously be a few things. Tell me what?
Look at the soft top cable it slips over the top as in the final presentation common problem as shown in this example…..how the hell did he miss it…9.52
Nice little cars, but after having tested a few, I have to say the performance is extremely underwhelming, considering the risk you take on when buying one of these cars. At the time I tested them, I owned a C5 Corvette and a 2001 Mustang Cobra, both of which would leave an early Boxster for dead, and for a MUCH more favourable risk/reward ratio. I simply couldn't justify that substantial of a drop in performance from what I was accustomed to, just to inherit a boat load of potential gut punches to my savings. All that said, I still find myself looking at them in the classifieds🤷🏼♂️
Didn’t mention the cylinder bore scoring problem that affects al of them at some point and requires an engine rebuild
Thanks for this, cuz I though it was only affecting the S versions
@@RiotHandI think it effects all BUT the S versions.
It doesn't affect all of them - in fact boxsters have a very low rate of bore scoring. It's the gen 1 Caymans which I think have the highest bore scoring rates (mostly the S models) 2004 to 2009 (also 997 Carrera) - Lokasil II coatings (weaker/thinner) were apparently to blame.
@@FridaysTheBomb The S versions are MORE likely to have it!
Bore scoring really only affects the cars that had forged pistons (2007/2008 Boxster S 3.4L).
The 1997-2006 Boxster and Boxster S (2.5L, 2.7L, 3.2L) used cast pistons and aren't as likely to become bore scored.
All 911s from 1997-2008 are susceptible to bore scoring (some years worse than others due to a cylinder coating change) and all Cayman S cars are susceptible. Basically the 3.4L or larger engines with the forged pistons are susceptible.
The problem was the forged pistons would expand and contract in size more during heavier heat cycles. The cast pistons were more likely to hold their shape longer and therefore put less heat stress on the cylinder walls.
you missed the leaking windscreen left side and the wet floor passenger side ruining the computer under the passenger seat. Also flat battery after car goes into sleep mode and its a pig to start it. Loose keys and you got another expensive problem.
NB MX5
When ims bearing has start to locate on that end of engine? Red arrow pointed??? Real expert.
My experience, 4 years ago bought a 99 Boxster from a lady for $4500.00. Car had 89000 KMS on it but a grenaded engine (IMS failure). Aside from the engine problem the car was what you would expect from a babied low mileage vehicle. Bought a used engine with 10000 kms for $5000.00 complete with all accessories, installed roller IMS bearing, RMS and new clutch, replaced all the fluids. A year latter one exhaust valve spring failed, robbed parts from old engine to fix. Sold old engine for $2000. Car is a joy to drive under the right conditions as I also have Tesla and C6 Corvette for the other occasions. The key to all of this is that I did all the work myself. The resale value of these cars even at today's inflated prices doesn't justify owning these cars unless you can avoid the dreaded Porsche tax for parts and the hideous labor rates at Porsche shops.
4algo
Good cars, handle well, but don’t feel in any way fast or even brisk due to Porsche’s insistence on using long gearing and tall final drive ratios. Such a shame as the tend to feel a bit soft and cater for the masses rather than proper car enthusiasts that like a more raw genuine engine experience.
There is a simple rule, if you can’t afford to maintain it, don’t buy it!
IMS bearing the engine killer.
If you buy one of these are buying a money pit. Before I had an MR2 that was a money pit to. have to wait for all the parts special order two weeks
Thanks for the heads up but I think k I'll stick to my mx5
This video reminds me why I sold my gen 1 Cayman S after only 10 months😂 I hated the anxiety of waiting for the IMS bearing to lunch itself. My AC was crap, so new condensers needed, it hesitated under acceleration and the air/oil separator broke, covering the car in a magicians puff of white smoke as I was parked downwind. I wish the sodding thing had disappeared! Surprisingly unrewarding to drive, with numb steering and not much grip, despite being on very expensive tyres. Which wore out in 6 months. Oh, and it guzzled oil, at about 1 litre in less than 1000 miles which Porsche said was normal. My current mx5 mk1 cost less to buy *and restore* than the running costs of my Cayman S over 10 months and is way more reliable and a hoot to drive and own. Lights up, lights down FTW!
Check out my boxster 21k miles 1999 still on original Michelin tyres 💎💯👍
Death trap if you are running original tires. They are over 22 years old. 6 to 10 years tops for tire life regardless of tread.
@@MDQDZINE car came with original tyres and alloys which I took off in 2007 and replaced with keskin alloys and new tyres 💎👌
They run way too hot and the gearing is too tall for the street like every porsche. They are not worth the money
Porsh-uh
Made this film impossible
Reparse.
Made this filming possible
I had a 986 Boxster and sold it less than a year later. Too many compromises in my opinion. The interior is embarrassingly cheap. The seats were flat, unsupportive and made with really crappy leather. A lot of cheap plastic everywhere. Cupholders are not where they should be. No rear parcel shelf for my dog. I wound up buying a Mini Cooper JCW convertible. It's shorter than a Boxster, seats four, has premium leather, cup holders are front and center where they belong, it handles like a go-kart and the top can be open half-way like a sunroof or completely as a convertible. So if the Boxster doesn't check all the boxes for you, then consider the Mini.
It’s not worth the $$$ risk. Newer examples too expensive for me, older models can’t get a good aftermarket warranty product to cover most of the expenses?
Can we deduce from this that Porsche engineering is s$%t? I've had issues this year with a low mileage, shedule-serviced BMW bike. Unforgivable stuff. My opinion on German engineering isn't what it was.
Would never buy one of these...its not even a real porsche.
What an old, tired take. It's a mid engine, flat six Porsche with a ton of re-used 911 parts. Fun little car, especially for the money.
It’s 100% Porsche from head to toe, but you keep doing you… whatever that looks like.
Because you could never afford one
Correct me if I'm wrong but there are two IMS bearings, the front one is a plain bearing lubricated by engine oil which never fails. The other bearing on the rear of the engine is a sealed ball bearing which is not lubricated with engine oil. The problem is that this bearing has grease lubrication when new but because it is inside the crankcase and subjected to heat cycles and hot engine oil, the seals can and do partially fail, allowing the grease to be washed out. Since the seals only partially fail( see reply to @steveclarke 8169 below) lubruction is by splash trying to work its way thru a seal, not an ideal situation. Porsche tried a number of different bearing sizes in both single row and double row and finally settled on a bearing that cannot be replaced without a total engine disassembly, not ideal. There are a number of aftermarket replacement bearing solutions for the earlier cars that are quite effective with most dispensing with the seals allowing full time oil lubrication.
did i miss the part about the security ECU that lives under drivers seat getting wet from top leaks and disables the car ....?