Not to worry about technical recording of your video as likely most viewers watch your channel and videos for your mechanical knowledge and educational ability. Good job brother Kenny. I don't believe the former owner of this engine cared too much about regular maintenance!
Just stripped a 3.5 Hummer engine down to the short block, that looked just like this sludgy mess. Just dropped the reassembled engine back in. Now working on the accessory drives, hoses, and wiring.
Merry Christmas to anyone reading this. If you go back and watch the video when you are turning the motor over that lifter with whatever in it hardly moves my thought is it was a flat lobe on cam but knowing you were going to replace it didn't really matter. Interesting to see something in the valve. Looking forward to see what damage there is to the valve
I did a hydraulic lifter & timing chain replacement on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine,at 337,512 kilometres or about 210,000 miles I removed the cylinder heads because the hydraulic lifters particularly on cylinder number 6 exhaust lifter were jamming up in the lifter bores because they were all mushroomed. I knew that it wasn't an oil burner & that it tested to have good oil pressure so I didn't touch the rest of the engine because it was still alright & I had a budget to stick to as well. The cylinders in mine didn't have a lip on them either & I could still see the factory hone marks as well,I had already replaced the valley cover gasket which was still not leaking oil so I left that alone,I should've replaced both knock sensors & the Knock sensor wiring harness at the same time but I didn't meaning that I had to remove the inlet manifold again to replace them. That's where I learned not to buy a $13 AUD knock sensor from China rather spend $75 AUD per sensor for a reputable brand such as the Wells brand. Note that was when I found a scan tool which would actually read the codes off the LS1's Delphi PCM,a lot of f the cheaper hand held scanners can't, it wasn't until Holden went CAN with the 6 litre L76 V8 engine that the El cheapo scan tools would read the codes off its Bosch PCM. I did notice a bit of scuffing on the cylinder wall of cylinder number 6 so I was worried that the Teflon coating may have worn off the piston skirt,it was a problem in the new LS1 V8 engines in 1999 in Australia when a bad batch of pistons were fitted & caused excessive oil consumption, the fix was to replace the engine or to get the existing engine rebuilt with 0.010" oversized pistons fitted, many people chose the latter because the problem wasn't really fixed up until 2000. I have been driving with a tad of piston slap for a few seconds when cold during winter time which I was told is normal for an alloy engine which is fitted with cast Eutectic pistons,I threw 1 litre (1 pint) of oil into the engine at 5000 kilometres (3000 Miles) after the last service that I did & it seems to be a tad overfull 7000 kilometres into the 10,000 kilometre service interval. Anyhow I replaced the timing chain with an LS2 Rollmaster timing chain & sprocket set as well as fitting an LS2-LS3 timing chain damper & adaptor bracket kit,I needed to remove the timing chain cover anyway because the gasket was leaking oil. I replaced the oil pan gasket after it cracked since some of the aftermarket timing chain cover gasket was bulging out when I tightened up the oil pan to timing chain Cover bolts. I got a local welder to weld up the oil pan for $60 AUD 5 years ago & it's still leak free,I just had to trim the timing chain cover gasket down with a razor blade. So,at 395,000 kilometres or about 245,000 miles it's still going good & the valves weren't leaking when I wet tested them either,I would however at least replace the pistons & fit the later full floating piston pin style pistons & connecting rods if I eventually decide to rebuild it. So I do believe it when you say that they're still going good at 300,000 miles after being regularly serviced !
Greetings from down under kenny love your work as an old mechanic i enjoy your videos and honesty i am glad your wife is on the mend all the best to you and yours for the future Keep on wrenchin!
Crossover pipe, yes for steam, both left to right and front to back. I had 706 heads, I'm told they were prone to porous castings that made them prone to occult coolant leaks. Nice tear down!
Only *Some* of the *Castech castings* had issues. *706's from other foundries are Not affected* - GM's bulletin TSB #06-06-01-019B - Some vehicles may experience a gradual coolant loss over time. A very low percentage of cylinder head(s) manufactured with an embossed Castech logo may develop a porosity crack in a very specific area. Inspect the cylinder head assembly to determine if the casting was manufactured by Castech. This can be accomplished by inspecting for their casting logo located on top of the intake port, under the rocker arm support rail and in the spring deck cavity portion of the cylinder head. Important: If the cylinder head(s) are Not a Castech casting, follow normal diagnostic procedures in SI to determine the cause of the coolant loss. Refer to the following illustrations on how to identify Castech casting and/or the very specific areas of the cylinder head(s) for a coolant leak from porosity.
I know you said you weren't going to hot tank the block but with all that crud in cooling passages, I would. That is some serious buildup that needs to come off. As far as the crosshatch, It looks to me that the engine may have been re-rung at some point. I could be wrong but I've seen enough engines with factory crosshatch still in them and that doesn't look factory worn out, it looks to have been hit with a stone type hone...like I said, I could be wrong. We need to see whatever that was stuck in that valve. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and can't wait to see the inside of that one!
Not a big fan of the the standard trunnion upgrades. I had them on motor with a "medium" cam for 1000 miles, had some serious pitting on the trunnions when I took them apart. There are a bunch of other people on LS1Tech with the same problem. Mine were the CompCams upgrades. I have since moved to a brass bushing, there are a few companies out there that make them. I run the CHE ones, and the Straub ones in another truck.
You can determine CID by measuring distance to BDC with a ruler or tape measure. You probably already know this, I realize. Or this may be planned for part 2. The difference between 4.8 and 5.3 is stroke. Cheers
You NEED to remind people to hit the like button EARLIER in the video, when you do it at the end I don't have time to hit the like before the video ends, If you do it sooner you will get more likes.
My brother has a silverado, 01 i believe, it pings all tthe time he is driving it, he said he replaced the knock sensor, and it still does it, even with premium fuel, any thoughts, have you co e across this problem, i enjoy your videos, thank you😊
Not to worry about technical recording of your video as likely most viewers watch your channel and videos for your mechanical knowledge and educational ability. Good job brother Kenny. I don't believe the former owner of this engine cared too much about regular maintenance!
really lucky so far Kenny , you got a cross hatch and no broken exhaust manifold bolt's ,yea hah !!
Just stripped a 3.5 Hummer engine down to the short block, that looked just like this sludgy mess.
Just dropped the reassembled engine back in. Now working on the accessory drives, hoses, and wiring.
Merry Christmas to anyone reading this.
If you go back and watch the video when you are turning the motor over that lifter with whatever in it hardly moves my thought is it was a flat lobe on cam but knowing you were going to replace it didn't really matter. Interesting to see something in the valve.
Looking forward to see what damage there is to the valve
Wish Kenny was my neighbor. It would be cool to be able to drop by and work on stuff. I enjoy working on pretty much anything. 😂
I did a hydraulic lifter & timing chain replacement on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine,at 337,512 kilometres or about 210,000 miles I removed the cylinder heads because the hydraulic lifters particularly on cylinder number 6 exhaust lifter were jamming up in the lifter bores because they were all mushroomed.
I knew that it wasn't an oil burner & that it tested to have good oil pressure so I didn't touch the rest of the engine because it was still alright & I had a budget to stick to as well.
The cylinders in mine didn't have a lip on them either & I could still see the factory hone marks as well,I had already replaced the valley cover gasket which was still not leaking oil so I left that alone,I should've replaced both knock sensors & the Knock sensor wiring harness at the same time but I didn't meaning that I had to remove the inlet manifold again to replace them.
That's where I learned not to buy a $13 AUD knock sensor from China rather spend $75 AUD per sensor for a reputable brand such as the Wells brand.
Note that was when I found a scan tool which would actually read the codes off the LS1's Delphi PCM,a lot of f the cheaper hand held scanners can't, it wasn't until Holden went CAN with the 6 litre L76 V8 engine that the El cheapo scan tools would read the codes off its Bosch PCM.
I did notice a bit of scuffing on the cylinder wall of cylinder number 6 so I was worried that the Teflon coating may have worn off the piston skirt,it was a problem in the new LS1 V8 engines in 1999 in Australia when a bad batch of pistons were fitted & caused excessive oil consumption, the fix was to replace the engine or to get the existing engine rebuilt with 0.010" oversized pistons fitted, many people chose the latter because the problem wasn't really fixed up until 2000.
I have been driving with a tad of piston slap for a few seconds when cold during winter time which I was told is normal for an alloy engine which is fitted with cast Eutectic pistons,I threw 1 litre (1 pint) of oil into the engine at 5000 kilometres (3000 Miles) after the last service that I did & it seems to be a tad overfull 7000 kilometres into the 10,000 kilometre service interval.
Anyhow I replaced the timing chain with an LS2 Rollmaster timing chain & sprocket set as well as fitting an LS2-LS3 timing chain damper & adaptor bracket kit,I needed to remove the timing chain cover anyway because the gasket was leaking oil.
I replaced the oil pan gasket after it cracked since some of the aftermarket timing chain cover gasket was bulging out when I tightened up the oil pan to timing chain Cover bolts.
I got a local welder to weld up the oil pan for $60 AUD 5 years ago & it's still leak free,I just had to trim the timing chain cover gasket down with a razor blade.
So,at 395,000 kilometres or about 245,000 miles it's still going good & the valves weren't leaking when I wet tested them either,I would however at least replace the pistons & fit the later full floating piston pin style pistons & connecting rods if I eventually decide to rebuild it.
So I do believe it when you say that they're still going good at 300,000 miles after being regularly serviced !
Greetings from down under kenny love your work as an old mechanic i enjoy your videos and honesty i am glad your wife is on the mend all the best to you and yours for the future Keep on wrenchin!
Thanks Kenny
Crossover pipe, yes for steam, both left to right and front to back. I had 706 heads, I'm told they were prone to porous castings that made them prone to occult coolant leaks. Nice tear down!
Only *Some* of the *Castech castings* had issues. *706's from other foundries are Not affected* - GM's bulletin TSB #06-06-01-019B - Some vehicles may experience a gradual coolant loss over time. A very low percentage of cylinder
head(s) manufactured with an embossed Castech logo may develop a porosity crack in a very
specific area.
Inspect the cylinder head assembly to determine if the casting was manufactured by Castech. This
can be accomplished by inspecting for their casting logo located on top of the intake port, under
the rocker arm support rail and in the spring deck cavity portion of the cylinder head.
Important: If the cylinder head(s) are Not a Castech casting, follow normal diagnostic procedures
in SI to determine the cause of the coolant loss.
Refer to the following illustrations on how to identify Castech casting and/or the very specific areas
of the cylinder head(s) for a coolant leak from porosity.
Thanks Kenney, and Merry Christmas
I still haven’t figured out how the stamp gets on the email
Would love to just follow you around and absorb some of that knowledge. You the best!!!
Looks like the end of the dip stick
I know you said you weren't going to hot tank the block but with all that crud in cooling passages, I would. That is some serious buildup that needs to come off. As far as the crosshatch, It looks to me that the engine may have been re-rung at some point. I could be wrong but I've seen enough engines with factory crosshatch still in them and that doesn't look factory worn out, it looks to have been hit with a stone type hone...like I said, I could be wrong. We need to see whatever that was stuck in that valve. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and can't wait to see the inside of that one!
Is there a time limit from utube for videos .i dont mind a long video
Maybe his camera battery dies..could be uploading is a hassle because of slow isp
I really like LS motors and how easy it is to swap heads and make a powerful motor
I am a diyer..i take stuff to the hot tank..yea we listen to the pros. Diy means do all you can at home, not everything. Merry xmas
Merry Christmas Kenny, hope you and your family are safe, sound and healthy.
I'm pretty sure the person that owned that engine didn't have any stock in Exxon/Mobil. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
Dip sticks not only annoy I Do Cars, but Kenny as well....
Most heads you start in the middle and work your way outward in a circular pattern. For torquing also
Great video 👍
You won't believe this but I just swatted at a mosquito on Christmas? It's pretty warm today, anyway again Merry Christmas Mr Kenny
Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas to you and your family 🎄
I'm kinda curious what was stuck under the valve 😊
the valley cover will come off without removing the knock sensors some don't know that
Use oven cleaner on the block and heads
Not a big fan of the the standard trunnion upgrades. I had them on motor with a "medium" cam for 1000 miles, had some serious pitting on the trunnions when I took them apart. There are a bunch of other people on LS1Tech with the same problem. Mine were the CompCams upgrades. I have since moved to a brass bushing, there are a few companies out there that make them. I run the CHE ones, and the Straub ones in another truck.
Please tell us about that valve and screwdriver tip. That's just weird or an another accident.
Why is the thumbs up and down buttons missing?????
You say you never win anything will you have a beautiful wife and kids and grandkids so keep kicking buddy
You can determine CID by measuring distance to BDC with a ruler or tape measure. You probably already know this, I realize. Or this may be planned for part 2. The difference between 4.8 and 5.3 is stroke. Cheers
You NEED to remind people to hit the like button EARLIER in the video, when you do it at the end I don't have time to hit the like before the video ends, If you do it sooner you will get more likes.
When you reinstall the the rockers do you torque them while the lifter is on the base circle only or do you torque them all at the same time?
Junkyard engine might explain all the sludge in the oil pan. I'm thinking someone never changed their oil
That’s ,looks 👀 like a piece of the dip stick tip . 🤷🏻♂️
It is a 5.3.
Get a grandchild to teach you this computer stuff! 😂
Dont feel alone your not the only one who is computer illiterate
My brother has a silverado, 01 i believe, it pings all tthe time he is driving it, he said he replaced the knock sensor, and it still does it, even with premium fuel, any thoughts, have you co e across this problem, i enjoy your videos, thank you😊