Always worth doing these wear items; and at 50+k miles, perfect timing. It’s a bear of a job, but that makes it all the more satisfying and confidence inspiring. No one will do that kind of work with as much care and attention to detail as you would yourself; to a mechanic, it’s just another car. I don’t even like to take our cars to a dealer for oil changes! Well done!👍
Enjoyed you video production and the volunteering of your son. Just great. My 1999 996 Carrera C2 has 132,750 miles now and can't tell by visual inspection if my IMS is changed or not. Because of the model year I know that I already have the dual row bearing which I am told is a rick solid design. I called MANY dozens of Porsche shops all over the country and was told that they all combined had 4 failing IMS bearings. Something like 3 to 5% near failure rate. They all had boxes full of perfectly fine usable IMS bearings. Most said that if the oil levels are maintained as they should be then no body should see failed IMS bearings.
David Bybee thanks for your kind words and for watching. I enjoy working on the car almost as much as driving it. Recently I’ve been spending time on my winter rig, a 06, Lexus GX 470. Polar opposite to the Carrera. They complement each other quite well.
Great vid, a tip I was given since I have not replaced my 2002/ 25k 996 IMS-B is to send a sample of oil for analysis, depending on results say like finding metal or whatever marker that would give a tell of a posible IMS bearing failure.
Doing the same on mine with 41k miles . Your bearing may have been fine but in a few weeks you'll forget about all the work while your enjoying your 996 and the peace of mind the new bearing provides .Good vid, thanks !
Thanks for posting the video. I've owned many air-cooled VWs and SWB Porsches (and a wasser-boxer-powered Vanagon Westy) over the years and have been wrenching since I was 15. Looking to acquire my first water-cooled Porsche, so your video (as well as some other I've watched) demonstrates how easy the IMS replacement actually is done at home. One thing I didn't understand was the temperature conversion "-17° C = 37° F" ... actually, (-17°C × 9/5) + 32 = 1.4°F) ... which is something I don't have to worry about, being in Southern California and Arizona most of the time ;)
Looks like a fair bit of work but I greatly value seeing people do work like this themselves without sending it off to a shop. I am the same way as it's all doable and leaves money for the many other things one can spend on. The huge satisfaction is a nice bonus when doing it yourself. Well done and great video.
For all of us concerned about the Porsche IMS Bearing issue - I found a very informative article from Autohaus Hamilton in Australia about the IMS. The article also lists all the models and engines (with engine numbers) that are affected. To read the article just type in “Autohaus Hamilton IMS” into google. The Porsche models that are prone to IMS failure and should be replaced are: - All 986 Boxster models. - 987 Cayman & Boxster models up to engine number 61504715 - All 996 models (not including: GT and Turbo models) - 997 3.6ltr with M96/05 up to engine number 6950745
Without having looked up Autohaus Hamilton, I wonder, by chance do they do bearing replacements? Seems a bit like LN Eng who say EVERY bearing should be replaced.. this simply is not true, nor born out by the 1000s of 996s and 997s on the road that have not had the bearing replaced, my car included. Secondary gain is rife within the ranks of those who say the bearing MUST be replaced..
I just found your channel yesterday. Enjoy the videos I have seen so far. My first 911 was a 997 and my second a 991. Miss the 997, especially the colour [Atlas Grey) and looks. Have been thinking of buying a 3rd 911-a 992 in green, but the car is almost too large.
Thanks Gary! I have not been uploading any videos recently but I still have the 996 and enjoy driving it and working on it. At the moment I’m getting an old Lexus GX back into shape for the winter. I agree that the newer 911s are quite big - but they still look great and I’m sure are fun to drive. I’m glad to have a manual transmission as I don’t think they make them anymore. Thanks for the the comment.
Definitely not hating on the OP cuz that's alot of work.. however--ive owned a 996 C4 for around 6 years now, and over that time have read nearly every post/article, watched nearly every video including those on PCA, bought most of the books/manuals, and talked at length with my local Porsche shop, and the conclusion I've drawn is that this issue is WAY over-blown.. To put it simply, the bearing is highly UNlikely to "grenade" and if it were to, it would have likely happened already based on the age and mileage of most of the 996s now on the road. More likely is that you'll start seeing metal and bearing seal debris in your oil filter during filter changes, and maybe on your magnetic drain plug if you use one. Changing your oil twice a year or every 4-5k miles and closely inspecting the filter will give ample opportunity to check your filter for debris. Use a good quality oil like Motul Xcess 8100. This video is a great example of an IMS and RMS that did not need replacing, but now has an IMS bearing that is REQUIRED to be replaced again at the service interval noted by LN Eng or the bearing manufacturer. Also, the oil feed kits supposedly work, but there are issues with the adapter breaking off and causing a sudden catastrophic loss of oil. The upside is that the fear of this issue has made the 996 likely the cheapest sports car value on the used car market today in my (and many others') opinions.
Thanks for watching. I agree with you. Had I known that my car had the dual row bearing I would not have changed it. However, I do believe that the LN ceramic bearing is superior to the original, so I do not regret installing it. Besides, service interval is about the same as clutch and both can be done at same time. Also, I now believe that the AOS is likely a more pressing issue for most 996 owners because it is a plastic part that seems to have a lifespan of about 18 years. Mine was startling to fail and it is possible to change from beneath while the transmission is out. Again, thanks for watching and for your intelligent comment.
@@pacman010 Great point about the AOS, seems like that should be replaced by default anytime the L side of the engine can be accessed. Thanks for the excellent video and reply 👍
I love how the clutch and IMS appear to have been replaced. But that's the cost of doing business plus I always found tearing stuff apart always seems to increase my confidence in the mechanics for future projects.
FoesFlyDennis thanks for watching and glad you found the video helpful. These are exceptionally good vehicles and a pleasure to work on if you enjoy spending time in the garage.
Great video, thanks. Were you surprised to find a dual row bearing in your 2001? Mine was made in March 2001 and I expect to find a single row, we’ll see.
I was, but I knew it was possible as I read that they changed during that period. Mine was March 01 as well. Good luck and thanks for watching! Car is running great and hasn’t needed any work for a hike now. I recommend doing the AOS at the same time - mine needed it.
There is an after market kit which pumps oil into the bearing. I’m considering getting it as so far I understand there is a zero failure rate with it. Replacement IMS bearings will still fail even ceramic ones. The issue is oil getting through the bearing into the intermediate shaft and getting trapped. The heat cycle goes through the oil hot cold etc according to use which basically turns the oil acidic this corrodes the bearing causing the fail. The reason you leave the grease guards off the replacement is to try to allow more circulation of the oil so it doesn’t just sit there going bad. The replacement I mention has a direct oil feed running through the IMS retaining plate feeding cold clean oil directly into the bearing. This will fill the intermediate shaft with oil and promote better circulation to avoid any oil being trapped and turning bad. It is true that most faults occur with the single row bearing however the earlier double row bearing engines are subject to snapped timing chains.
Yes, the oil feed systems look good, but require modifications to run an oil line and they are more expensive than the bearing alone. I figure I will plan on replacing IMS again next time the clutch needs to be changed. My impression is that the issue with the original Porsche bearings is overblown - in the vast majority of cars they last longer than other components.
Nice job! I've owned 10 911s, 1973-1982, and now I am considering buying a 996 after 13 years without a Porsche. I noticed that your new bearing appeared to not be a SEALED Bearing, is this accurate? Also, why did you not use the After-Market "Pressure Feed Bearing." I've been a Diesel Mechanic for over 50 years and this appears to me to be a very good solution to the problem, unless the "Double Row Bearing" is now being supplied without being a SEALED bearing like I think your is, therefore it is lubricated by the engine oil, just not Pressure Feed. Please explain.
Pat Maundrell thanks! The bearing I put in is ceramic, dual row and not sealed. So, it should be better than the original, which was fine in most cars. I think the problem is mostly with single row and can probably be mitigated with frequent oil changes and keeping it at the right level. Oil feed looks good, although not sure it’s needed and it requires modifications to add an oil feed. I think the problem is overblown to begin with, but I’m happy to change it when I change the clutch for peace of mind. Hope you find a good car - they are so much fun to drive, work on and look at!
Are the flywheel bolts one-use bolts? Any others like that? (My manual hasn't arrived yet, but no doubt will tell me). I plan on going through all that this winter. My bearing is the larger one that can't be removed without dismantling the engine, so pretty much all I can do is remove the bearing grease seal to improve splash lubrication, or add a TunerRS kit to spray oil on it.
Good job doing this on jack stands. Thinking about it myself but is hesitant because it looks like really hard work when not using a lift. As I don’t have a lift my other option is having a shop doing it for me. Would you recommend doing it yourself knowing what you now know about how hard it is using jack stands?
Dadbeh Rouhbakhsh I couldn’t hold the camera while doing it, but it is fairly straightforward. You pull it out with a bearing removal tool (purchased with the new bearing) and you push it in with a plastic hammer. Good luck!
Take an LN Engerneering IMS next time, they last long. They also doing a registration on your bill, so even good for the next owner to show when IMS was fixed.
Great job!! I can't imagine working in that cold weather. I'm with you not taking a chance driving the car not knowing about the IMS. My son bought a 2004 Boxster Spyder with 80,000 miles and we had it done immediately. It cost $3,000. Like yours it had not started to go, but unlike yours it was original. How much did yours cost?
Charles Jacobus thanks! I have another video regarding the costs - I don’t exactly remember and it depends what I include in the calculation because I changed a lot of other parts at the same time and also needed some tools. One thing I didn’t change and realized that I should have was the air-oil-separator (AOS). I did that recently and will post a video about it soon. thanks for watching. I hope your sonis enjoy his Porsche and let’s you drive it!
@@pacman010 Look forward to seeing your other videos. It reminds me of my youth when I worked on my own starting with a 1966 911 back in '67. Fortunately, I currently have a couple Porsches of my own to drive. But I will say I used to question Boxsters, but his Boxster S Spyder is very impressive. I like driving it as much as my 993. :-)
Charles Jacobus very cool that you have a collection. These cars are almost as fun to work on as they are to drive. I’m hoping to make a video of a family friend’s 1964 911 and late 1980’s 944 turbo.
@@pacman010 Cool 1964. I had a '66 911 with overflow carbs. Loved the car, hated the carbs. '67 is the best of the early years. '95 993 is the best of the later ones (especially turbo).
Sean Denny i locked the crank from the back, as well as one cam from the front. This was sufficient to keep everything in place while I removed two chain tensioners.
Haha. Thanks. The old one looked fine but up close the new one is clearly a higher quality. It is made with ceramic bearings to withstand heat more and it is open on the front for better lubrication. I intend to replace it again after 80,000 miles. It will be interesting to compare it to the original at that time.
That was a lot of work for anyone, let alone someone who dosent do it for a living. You must really like escaping from the family. Porsche time > family time.
Seth E that’s what my wife said! It wasn’t actually that bad. Spread out over a period of a couple of weeks it’s very manageable. However I would recommend it for anyone who doesn’t like tinkering in the garage. Thanks for watching!
@@pacman010 it is pretty awesome though it was something you set your sights on and not only accomplished the goal, and documented it pretty understandably. Hopefully you get some views on it and maybe make more DADDIY videos ( Dad. DoItYourselfer videos) And if your wife busts your balls like I did, just give her some bullshit about teaching your kids how to set goals and take the steps necessary to accomplish them. Hope you're enjoying the Porsche!
I investigated the IMS death bearing. I read a well studied report, I wish I could find it again. With all the info that this fellow collected there is not an IMS concern. Drive the car hard. I know a lot of Porsche fellows and no one has ever had an issue, though the Fear is there. These fellows have had the bearing replaced " JUST IN CASE". Not a very good move. I don't believe the IMS is any more of an issue than a porsche that sits all week and won't start. This is an alternator issue that won't charge properly but no one seems to talk about the fix, most talk of the issue.
Patrick Lemble thank you. It was quite satisfying to do. The car is so well engineered and working on it really helps one to notice how much goes into designing and building these incredible machines.
Looking to take on the same task on my 4S. Thanks for the motivation and the guideance. I already have the pelican manual and will be scouring it for deatails. What parts specific did you need? I saw a timing tool, clutch alignment tool and the RMS tool you made anything else you needed?
Yes, I'll try to make a video during the next few days to list the parts, but from memory here is what is needed: -clutch kit (this includes: clutch disc, pressure plate, centering tool, grease) -clutch throw-out bearing -flywheel (i resurfaced the existing one, but my car has really low mileage) -flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts -camshaft bore plugs/cylinder head plugs -IMS retrofit bearing and pro toolkit (i bought LN Engineering's retrofit) -slave cylinder (shouldn't be necessary, but mine got damage when taking it out) -rear main seal -sealant and grease That's about it. the cost of parts adds up, but it is much cheaper than paying someone else, it is fun to do, and there is so much satisfaction to be had from completing a project like this. I bought the parts from Pelican Parts and FCP Euro (comparing for best pricing and availability). Have fun and good luck!
..the joys of OC order Crazy: changing the IMS bearing does not prevent future failure, because this is a lubrication issue. So the engine needs running everyday to avoid IMS failure
@@wc7484 yes agreed the kit that does away with the bearing altogether is the way to go but much care required in grinding out an oil feed pipe route. Written pre-job warranty from mechanic required?
Ouch. Yes, its a big job and the bearing is pricey. However, once the transmission is out, you can access the RMS and the AOS, which it is worthwhile changing as they wear out over time. Good luck.
You state you had done research right at the start of the video. Had you researched properly you would know that the age of your vehicle would indicate a double race IMS bearing (barring an engine change). You would also have found out the reason Porsche went from the double race to the single race bearing. It’s because the double race bearing put a lot of torque through the timing chains causing them to stretch and snap. The single race bearing puts the torque onto the IMS bearing which along with bearing seals and lubrication issues causes it to fail. However a relatively straightforward IMS bearing change (with clutch change) is far quicker and cheaper than an engine out and strip down to replace timing chains every 80,000 miles. Most of the reported 1% of double race IMS bearing failures are actually timing chain issues. The results of both are very similar. Unfortunately you don’t get the warning in the oil with a stretched timing chain either. Single race IMS bearing failure is avoidable by following some very simple steps. Change the oil & filter frequently, around 5-6k miles, cut open the old filter check the folds for ferrous deposits, get a magnetic sump plug Do not go above 3k rpm until the engine is properly warmed up then drive over 4k rpm in gears for some time to aid lubrication. (Enjoy this bit!) Avoid very short journeys when the engine is cold. Do not store the vehicle for periods, ideally daily drive the vehicle, certainly don’t store it ‘over winter’. Especially important when coming up to oil change periods, old acidic oil will dissolve the IMS bearing seals as it is semi submerged when resting, this will shorten the time to failure. It’s also why race cars and daily drivers tend not to fail. Approximately 8% of IMS issues are due to single race bearings, of those around 80% have been attended to by Porsche. Of the remaining 20% of the 8% around 70% will have had the IMS bearing replaced (possibly several times) by various owners so the only remaining failures are the following: 1) 30% of 20% of 8% or 0.0048% or just under 1/200 which haven’t had any attention. 2) vehicles with very low mileage and no receipts (a 20 year old vehicle with 20 year old parts) 3) vehicles with no recent service history, DIY servicing is to be expected for a lot of items due to cost efficiency but check the quality of parts and fluids. A service stamp with no invoice or receipts is just a stamp. Also check the mileage between services frequency of tyre changes, frequency of oil changes. Look for periods of inactivity and check against receipts, was the vehicle awaiting parts? If so why, if the owner couldn’t afford parts then basic maintenance may be skipped. 4) vehicles where the IMS bearing was replaced a long time ago and then forgotten, any periods since changing which indicate no maintenance, service stamps, invoices and receipts. Proof of history is invaluable both to the seller and the buyer.
You’re info is correct except that for MY01 it is impossible to know if a car has single or dual without taking it out because during that year they made the switch and for a period they were producing both. I’ve put 20,000km on the car since the change and it is running great. Fantastic machine!
Your comment is the first I've heard regarding the dual row bearing transmitting torque stress to the chains any differently than a single row. I've read quite a bit on the subject and I have an early '00 having the dual row, now with 54k miles. It doesn't make sense that the number of rows of bearings will change the amount of torque applied to the chains. It is the same regardless of bearing. You may be thinking of the 5-chain 3.4 engine vs the 3-chain 3.6 starting in .02. The 3-chain was an improvement for longevity and not related to Porsche decision to stoop to a single row IMS bearing. Additionally, the '02 changed to "VariaoCam Plus" which gradually advanced the timing. Prior the "VarioCam" actuated at 3k rpm abruptly. I will likely just wait about 25k miles and change out the clutch, plate and install an EPS cylindrical bearing. Bore scoring for these engines scares me more than the IMS bearing anyway. When you have it, it is a cancer that is terminal and there is no "retrofit".
@@DSC800 The information I have provided makes absolute sense and it obviously was not discovered first hand by me. You can take it, or leave it, it makes no difference to me. If you think I’m wrong then that’s fine as well. The torque difference between the bearings is a critical factor, along with standing time, service time, oil acidity & condition, driving habits and engine temperature especially when starting from cold. I would like to know why you think Porsche didn’t just go back to the double race bearings, instead persevering through a law suit, replacing thousands of bearings be they faulty or not and compensating owners who had already replaced their bearing if they had a far more reliable bearing available.
Your keen working on the car with just thoses axle stands underneath and hard knock and you would have had a car on your head, but never the less a good video
mac thanks for watching and I appreciate the safety concern. Just FYI, I always test the stands by pushing hard in all directions before getting under + I had wheels under the sides of the car just in case.
Perhaps, but they LN guarantee their product for roughly the interval of a clutch change. Which means I can enjoy the car with peace of mind for a long time. Plus, it’s impossible to eliminate all risks. Many other things can happen also.
@@pacman010 L N has two types of repairs. One is to substitute The original bearing with a replacement bearing. The other is to substitute a bushing for the replacement bearing. Then supply a pressurined source of engine oil to the bushing. The second method will last much longer.
Glenn Wright it was impossible for me to hold the camera while doing so + lots of oil comes flowing out. The extraction is quite easy with the right tool. Just a matter of screwing it onto the bearing center bolt and then wrenching it out. Putting the new one in is also quite easy with a plastic hammer. Good luck.
Kenneth Kassabian sorry to disappoint you. I didn’t set out to make a video; I had a job to do and recorded the different steps as best I could with greasy hands while working in difficult positions. Hopefully it helps a few people.
Always worth doing these wear items; and at 50+k miles, perfect timing. It’s a bear of a job, but that makes it all the more satisfying and confidence inspiring. No one will do that kind of work with as much care and attention to detail as you would yourself; to a mechanic, it’s just another car. I don’t even like to take our cars to a dealer for oil changes! Well done!👍
Robert Rishel thank you! I was thinking the same thing.
i guess it's kinda off topic but does anybody know a good site to stream newly released movies online ?
@Neil Jaxtyn flixportal :D
@Kobe Skyler thank you, I went there and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it!
@Neil Jaxtyn No problem =)
Enjoyed you video production and the volunteering of your son. Just great. My 1999 996 Carrera C2 has 132,750 miles now and can't tell by visual inspection if my IMS is changed or not. Because of the model year I know that I already have the dual row bearing which I am told is a rick solid design. I called MANY dozens of Porsche shops all over the country and was told that they all combined had 4 failing IMS bearings. Something like 3 to 5% near failure rate. They all had boxes full of perfectly fine usable IMS bearings. Most said that if the oil levels are maintained as they should be then no body should see failed IMS bearings.
David Bybee thanks for your kind words and for watching. I enjoy working on the car almost as much as driving it. Recently I’ve been spending time on my winter rig, a 06, Lexus GX 470. Polar opposite to the Carrera. They complement each other quite well.
Great vid, a tip I was given since I have not replaced my 2002/ 25k 996 IMS-B is to send a sample of oil for analysis, depending on results say like finding metal or whatever marker that would give a tell of a posible IMS bearing failure.
Doing the same on mine with 41k miles . Your bearing may have been fine but in a few weeks you'll forget about all the work while your enjoying your 996 and the peace of mind the new bearing provides .Good vid, thanks !
Thanks for posting the video. I've owned many air-cooled VWs and SWB Porsches (and a wasser-boxer-powered Vanagon Westy) over the years and have been wrenching since I was 15. Looking to acquire my first water-cooled Porsche, so your video (as well as some other I've watched) demonstrates how easy the IMS replacement actually is done at home.
One thing I didn't understand was the temperature conversion "-17° C = 37° F" ... actually, (-17°C × 9/5) + 32 = 1.4°F) ... which is something I don't have to worry about, being in Southern California and Arizona most of the time ;)
euro911 thanks for watching. You’re right about the temp. I usually have no idea what it is in F, we are always in Celsius; shouldn’t have guessed.
I'm the previous owner and I did all of this just before you bought it!
Hahah! Funny thing is that I probably didn’t need to do the IMS or the clutch, but the following year I did need to do the AOS.
Looks like a fair bit of work but I greatly value seeing people do work like this themselves without sending it off to a shop. I am the same way as it's all doable and leaves money for the many other things one can spend on. The huge satisfaction is a nice bonus when doing it yourself. Well done and great video.
LQ4 Mustang thank you! 100% agree with you. Subscribed to your channel.
Great job and thanks for sharing! Wonderful that your kids were involved, kudos to the 996 family!
Jav Tower thanks for watching!
Always a good idea to check peace of mind
Good for you man , i'm a mechanic but at 75 my friendly shop owner is doing that same job on my 2000 bosxter. {EPS) ims bearing
For all of us concerned about the Porsche IMS Bearing
issue - I found a very informative article from Autohaus Hamilton in Australia
about the IMS. The article also lists all the models and engines (with engine
numbers) that are affected. To read the article just type in “Autohaus Hamilton
IMS” into google. The Porsche models that are prone to IMS failure and should be
replaced are: - All 986 Boxster models. - 987 Cayman & Boxster models up to
engine number 61504715 - All 996 models (not including: GT and Turbo models) -
997 3.6ltr with M96/05 up to engine number 6950745
Without having looked up Autohaus Hamilton, I wonder, by chance do they do bearing replacements? Seems a bit like LN Eng who say EVERY bearing should be replaced.. this simply is not true, nor born out by the 1000s of 996s and 997s on the road that have not had the bearing replaced, my car included. Secondary gain is rife within the ranks of those who say the bearing MUST be replaced..
Great video. It’s hard not do what you did just for the piece of mind ,good job your work helps the rest of us. Thank you!
I just found your channel yesterday. Enjoy the videos I have seen so far.
My first 911 was a 997 and my second a 991. Miss the 997, especially the colour [Atlas Grey) and looks. Have been thinking of buying a 3rd 911-a 992 in green, but the car is almost too large.
Thanks Gary! I have not been uploading any videos recently but I still have the 996 and enjoy driving it and working on it. At the moment I’m getting an old Lexus GX back into shape for the winter. I agree that the newer 911s are quite big - but they still look great and I’m sure are fun to drive. I’m glad to have a manual transmission as I don’t think they make them anymore. Thanks for the the comment.
@@paulreed3770 m
Definitely not hating on the OP cuz that's alot of work.. however--ive owned a 996 C4 for around 6 years now, and over that time have read nearly every post/article, watched nearly every video including those on PCA, bought most of the books/manuals, and talked at length with my local Porsche shop, and the conclusion I've drawn is that this issue is WAY over-blown.. To put it simply, the bearing is highly UNlikely to "grenade" and if it were to, it would have likely happened already based on the age and mileage of most of the 996s now on the road. More likely is that you'll start seeing metal and bearing seal debris in your oil filter during filter changes, and maybe on your magnetic drain plug if you use one. Changing your oil twice a year or every 4-5k miles and closely inspecting the filter will give ample opportunity to check your filter for debris. Use a good quality oil like Motul Xcess 8100. This video is a great example of an IMS and RMS that did not need replacing, but now has an IMS bearing that is REQUIRED to be replaced again at the service interval noted by LN Eng or the bearing manufacturer. Also, the oil feed kits supposedly work, but there are issues with the adapter breaking off and causing a sudden catastrophic loss of oil. The upside is that the fear of this issue has made the 996 likely the cheapest sports car value on the used car market today in my (and many others') opinions.
Thanks for watching. I agree with you. Had I known that my car had the dual row bearing I would not have changed it. However, I do believe that the LN ceramic bearing is superior to the original, so I do not regret installing it. Besides, service interval is about the same as clutch and both can be done at same time. Also, I now believe that the AOS is likely a more pressing issue for most 996 owners because it is a plastic part that seems to have a lifespan of about 18 years. Mine was startling to fail and it is possible to change from beneath while the transmission is out. Again, thanks for watching and for your intelligent comment.
@@pacman010
Great point about the AOS, seems like that should be replaced by default anytime the L side of the engine can be accessed. Thanks for the excellent video and reply 👍
Excellent job!!! Good idea to read manuals!!! Beautiful porsche!!!
Thank you!
I love how the clutch and IMS appear to have been replaced. But that's the cost of doing business plus I always found tearing stuff apart always seems to increase my confidence in the mechanics for future projects.
Thank you for all the effort you put into sharing your experience with this. Now I am not as concerned about buying a pre 2009 911.
FoesFlyDennis thanks for watching and glad you found the video helpful. These are exceptionally good vehicles and a pleasure to work on if you enjoy spending time in the garage.
Definitely saved a bunch doing it yourself!
Good job sir, I bet this would have been thousands at a dealer.👏👍😁
Great video, thanks. Were you surprised to find a dual row bearing in your 2001? Mine was made in March 2001 and I expect to find a single row, we’ll see.
I was, but I knew it was possible as I read that they changed during that period. Mine was March 01 as well. Good luck and thanks for watching! Car is running great and hasn’t needed any work for a hike now. I recommend doing the AOS at the same time - mine needed it.
Nice work, going to give this a go on a 997T
There is an after market kit which pumps oil into the bearing. I’m considering getting it as so far I understand there is a zero failure rate with it. Replacement IMS bearings will still fail even ceramic ones.
The issue is oil getting through the bearing into the intermediate shaft and getting trapped. The heat cycle goes through the oil hot cold etc according to use which basically turns the oil acidic this corrodes the bearing causing the fail. The reason you leave the grease guards off the replacement is to try to allow more circulation of the oil so it doesn’t just sit there going bad.
The replacement I mention has a direct oil feed running through the IMS retaining plate feeding cold clean oil directly into the bearing. This will fill the intermediate shaft with oil and promote better circulation to avoid any oil being trapped and turning bad.
It is true that most faults occur with the single row bearing however the earlier double row bearing engines are subject to snapped timing chains.
Yes, the oil feed systems look good, but require modifications to run an oil line and they are more expensive than the bearing alone. I figure I will plan on replacing IMS again next time the clutch needs to be changed. My impression is that the issue with the original Porsche bearings is overblown - in the vast majority of cars they last longer than other components.
Nice job! I've owned 10 911s, 1973-1982, and now I am considering buying a 996 after 13 years without a Porsche. I noticed that your new bearing appeared to not be a SEALED Bearing, is this accurate? Also, why did you not use the After-Market "Pressure Feed Bearing." I've been a Diesel Mechanic for over 50 years and this appears to me to be a very good solution to the problem, unless the "Double Row Bearing" is now being supplied without being a SEALED bearing like I think your is, therefore it is lubricated by the engine oil, just not Pressure Feed. Please explain.
Pat Maundrell thanks! The bearing I put in is ceramic, dual row and not sealed. So, it should be better than the original, which was fine in most cars. I think the problem is mostly with single row and can probably be mitigated with frequent oil changes and keeping it at the right level. Oil feed looks good, although not sure it’s needed and it requires modifications to add an oil feed. I think the problem is overblown to begin with, but I’m happy to change it when I change the clutch for peace of mind. Hope you find a good car - they are so much fun to drive, work on and look at!
I love these cars!! Nice job will be nice if you shows all special tools you have made for this project.
Are the flywheel bolts one-use bolts? Any others like that? (My manual hasn't arrived yet, but no doubt will tell me). I plan on going through all that this winter. My bearing is the larger one that can't be removed without dismantling the engine, so pretty much all I can do is remove the bearing grease seal to improve splash lubrication, or add a TunerRS kit to spray oil on it.
Nicely done and well documented.
Great job... Easy to get grey hair with all the maintenance that these vehicles require 😳
Good job doing this on jack stands. Thinking about it myself but is hesitant because it looks like really hard work when not using a lift. As I don’t have a lift my other option is having a shop doing it for me.
Would you recommend doing it yourself knowing what you now know about how hard it is using jack stands?
Tabberacci thanks! No problem with jack stands, just need to get it as high as possible. Good luck!
It would have been nice to see how the IMS is actually removed and replaced!
Dadbeh Rouhbakhsh I couldn’t hold the camera while doing it, but it is fairly straightforward. You pull it out with a bearing removal tool (purchased with the new bearing) and you push it in with a plastic hammer. Good luck!
Great work! Compliments,!
Take an LN Engerneering IMS next time, they last long.
They also doing a registration on your bill, so even good for the next owner to show when IMS was fixed.
the one I installed is an LN ceramic bearing.
car is beautiful! congrats!
Great job!! I can't imagine working in that cold weather. I'm with you not taking a chance driving the car not knowing about the IMS. My son bought a 2004 Boxster Spyder with 80,000 miles and we had it done immediately. It cost $3,000. Like yours it had not started to go, but unlike yours it was original. How much did yours cost?
Charles Jacobus thanks! I have another video regarding the costs - I don’t exactly remember and it depends what I include in the calculation because I changed a lot of other parts at the same time and also needed some tools. One thing I didn’t change and realized that I should have was the air-oil-separator (AOS). I did that recently and will post a video about it soon. thanks for watching. I hope your sonis enjoy his Porsche and let’s you drive it!
@@pacman010 Look forward to seeing your other videos. It reminds me of my youth when I worked on my own starting with a 1966 911 back in '67. Fortunately, I currently have a couple Porsches of my own to drive. But I will say I used to question Boxsters, but his Boxster S Spyder is very impressive. I like driving it as much as my 993. :-)
Charles Jacobus very cool that you have a collection. These cars are almost as fun to work on as they are to drive. I’m hoping to make a video of a family friend’s 1964 911 and late 1980’s 944 turbo.
@@pacman010 Cool 1964. I had a '66 911 with overflow carbs. Loved the car, hated the carbs. '67 is the best of the early years. '95 993 is the best of the later ones (especially turbo).
The dual row bearing you had was perfectly fine, its only the single rows that will crater on you... just FYI for others.
Frank Jeffers agreed. Unfortunately they changed during model year 2001 (which mine is) and the only way to tell for those years is to inspect it.
Did you say you took of all the lock cam timing chain ?
Sean Denny i locked the crank from the back, as well as one cam from the front. This was sufficient to keep everything in place while I removed two chain tensioners.
block camshaft , for distribution,porshe manual savs to block. thanks
Luca Martelli oh, yes. I would block to avoid timing issues. I blocked crank from the back and one cam from front.
Hope the new one doesn't fail. The old one looked better.
Haha. Thanks. The old one looked fine but up close the new one is clearly a higher quality. It is made with ceramic bearings to withstand heat more and it is open on the front for better lubrication. I intend to replace it again after 80,000 miles. It will be interesting to compare it to the original at that time.
Only a question! Do you have 996 Carrera4 Tiptronic?
Because I want to do the same! Thank you if you give me some info!
Hi, mine is manual. Not sure how different it would be with tiptronic.
That was a lot of work for anyone, let alone someone who dosent do it for a living. You must really like escaping from the family. Porsche time > family time.
Seth E that’s what my wife said! It wasn’t actually that bad. Spread out over a period of a couple of weeks it’s very manageable. However I would recommend it for anyone who doesn’t like tinkering in the garage. Thanks for watching!
@@pacman010 it is pretty awesome though it was something you set your sights on and not only accomplished the goal, and documented it pretty understandably.
Hopefully you get some views on it and maybe make more DADDIY videos ( Dad. DoItYourselfer videos)
And if your wife busts your balls like I did, just give her some bullshit about teaching your kids how to set goals and take the steps necessary to accomplish them.
Hope you're enjoying the Porsche!
Excellent video, thank you.
Hulley29 you’re welcome, thanks for watching!
I investigated the IMS death bearing. I read a well studied report, I wish I could find it again. With all the info that this fellow collected there is not an IMS concern. Drive the car hard. I know a lot of Porsche fellows and no one has ever had an issue, though the Fear is there. These fellows have had the bearing replaced " JUST IN CASE". Not a very good move. I don't believe the IMS is any more of an issue than a porsche that sits all week and won't start. This is an alternator issue that won't charge properly but no one seems to talk about the fix, most talk of the issue.
Hats of to you ! some project !
Patrick Lemble thank you. It was quite satisfying to do. The car is so well engineered and working on it really helps one to notice how much goes into designing and building these incredible machines.
Looking to take on the same task on my 4S. Thanks for the motivation and the guideance. I already have the pelican manual and will be scouring it for deatails. What parts specific did you need? I saw a timing tool, clutch alignment tool and the RMS tool you made anything else you needed?
Yes, I'll try to make a video during the next few days to list the parts, but from memory here is what is needed:
-clutch kit (this includes: clutch disc, pressure plate, centering tool, grease)
-clutch throw-out bearing
-flywheel (i resurfaced the existing one, but my car has really low mileage)
-flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts
-camshaft bore plugs/cylinder head plugs
-IMS retrofit bearing and pro toolkit (i bought LN Engineering's retrofit)
-slave cylinder (shouldn't be necessary, but mine got damage when taking it out)
-rear main seal
-sealant and grease
That's about it. the cost of parts adds up, but it is much cheaper than paying someone else, it is fun to do, and there is so much satisfaction to be had from completing a project like this. I bought the parts from Pelican Parts and FCP Euro (comparing for best pricing and availability). Have fun and good luck!
..the joys of OC order
Crazy: changing the IMS bearing does not prevent future failure, because this is a lubrication issue. So the engine needs running everyday to avoid IMS failure
Quintellian what if you use those retrofit kits that have a line that feeds pressurized oil to the bearing ?
@@wc7484 yes agreed the kit that does away with the bearing altogether is the way to go but much care required in grinding out an oil feed pipe route. Written pre-job warranty from mechanic required?
Great job. You deserve a pat on the back.
Henry Ting thank you sir! I’m glad I did it. Beginning to know this car very well.
This is why I got a car lift. It makes miserable jobs..... well, less miserable.
Nice. I wish I had built my garage with higher ceilings and a lift.
Wish you could do mine . They want 4k for that job . Just the bearing .
Ouch. Yes, its a big job and the bearing is pricey. However, once the transmission is out, you can access the RMS and the AOS, which it is worthwhile changing as they wear out over time. Good luck.
You state you had done research right at the start of the video. Had you researched properly you would know that the age of your vehicle would indicate a double race IMS bearing (barring an engine change). You would also have found out the reason Porsche went from the double race to the single race bearing.
It’s because the double race bearing put a lot of torque through the timing chains causing them to stretch and snap. The single race bearing puts the torque onto the IMS bearing which along with bearing seals and lubrication issues causes it to fail.
However a relatively straightforward IMS bearing change (with clutch change) is far quicker and cheaper than an engine out and strip down to replace timing chains every 80,000 miles. Most of the reported 1% of double race IMS bearing failures are actually timing chain issues. The results of both are very similar. Unfortunately you don’t get the warning in the oil with a stretched timing chain either.
Single race IMS bearing failure is avoidable by following some very simple steps.
Change the oil & filter frequently, around 5-6k miles, cut open the old filter check the folds for ferrous deposits, get a magnetic sump plug
Do not go above 3k rpm until the engine is properly warmed up then drive over 4k rpm in gears for some time to aid lubrication. (Enjoy this bit!)
Avoid very short journeys when the engine is cold.
Do not store the vehicle for periods, ideally daily drive the vehicle, certainly don’t store it ‘over winter’. Especially important when coming up to oil change periods, old acidic oil will dissolve the IMS bearing seals as it is semi submerged when resting, this will shorten the time to failure. It’s also why race cars and daily drivers tend not to fail.
Approximately 8% of IMS issues are due to single race bearings, of those around 80% have been attended to by Porsche. Of the remaining 20% of the 8% around 70% will have had the IMS bearing replaced (possibly several times) by various owners so the only remaining failures are the following:
1) 30% of 20% of 8% or 0.0048% or just under 1/200 which haven’t had any attention.
2) vehicles with very low mileage and no receipts (a 20 year old vehicle with 20 year old parts)
3) vehicles with no recent service history, DIY servicing is to be expected for a lot of items due to cost efficiency but check the quality of parts and fluids. A service stamp with no invoice or receipts is just a stamp. Also check the mileage between services frequency of tyre changes, frequency of oil changes. Look for periods of inactivity and check against receipts, was the vehicle awaiting parts? If so why, if the owner couldn’t afford parts then basic maintenance may be skipped.
4) vehicles where the IMS bearing was replaced a long time ago and then forgotten, any periods since changing which indicate no maintenance, service stamps, invoices and receipts. Proof of history is invaluable both to the seller and the buyer.
You’re info is correct except that for MY01 it is impossible to know if a car has single or dual without taking it out because during that year they made the switch and for a period they were producing both. I’ve put 20,000km on the car since the change and it is running great. Fantastic machine!
Your comment is the first I've heard regarding the dual row bearing transmitting torque stress to the chains any differently than a single row. I've read quite a bit on the subject and I have an early '00 having the dual row, now with 54k miles. It doesn't make sense that the number of rows of bearings will change the amount of torque applied to the chains. It is the same regardless of bearing. You may be thinking of the 5-chain 3.4 engine vs the 3-chain 3.6 starting in .02. The 3-chain was an improvement for longevity and not related to Porsche decision to stoop to a single row IMS bearing. Additionally, the '02 changed to "VariaoCam Plus" which gradually advanced the timing. Prior the "VarioCam" actuated at 3k rpm abruptly. I will likely just wait about 25k miles and change out the clutch, plate and install an EPS cylindrical bearing.
Bore scoring for these engines scares me more than the IMS bearing anyway. When you have it, it is a cancer that is terminal and there is no "retrofit".
@@DSC800 The information I have provided makes absolute sense and it obviously was not discovered first hand by me. You can take it, or leave it, it makes no difference to me. If you think I’m wrong then that’s fine as well. The torque difference between the bearings is a critical factor, along with standing time, service time, oil acidity & condition, driving habits and engine temperature especially when starting from cold.
I would like to know why you think Porsche didn’t just go back to the double race bearings, instead persevering through a law suit, replacing thousands of bearings be they faulty or not and compensating owners who had already replaced their bearing if they had a far more reliable bearing available.
Great work!! Even more so for making it a family affair ;)
is it possible to change ims without phasing?
Luca Martelli hi, what do you mean by “phasing”?
Wow...its colder outside than it is in my freezer.
SDMF5000 in effect, and quite a lot colder! Spring is finally here now.
Note to others leave the grease shields off on the new bearing ;)
Your keen working on the car with just thoses axle stands underneath and hard knock and you would have had a car on your head, but never the less a good video
mac thanks for watching and I appreciate the safety concern. Just FYI, I always test the stands by pushing hard in all directions before getting under + I had wheels under the sides of the car just in case.
The only thing that exchanging the IMS bearing with a new one, will be to put it's failure into the future.
Perhaps, but they LN guarantee their product for roughly the interval of a clutch change. Which means I can enjoy the car with peace of mind for a long time. Plus, it’s impossible to eliminate all risks. Many other things can happen also.
@@pacman010 L N has two types of repairs. One is to substitute The original bearing with a replacement bearing. The other is to substitute a bushing for the replacement bearing. Then supply a pressurined source of engine oil to the bushing. The second method will last much longer.
New IMS bearings can fail too. Should have just left the old one in and enjoyed the car.
Yes - the dual row bearing had a very low failure rate to start with, I certainly wouldn’t replace it.
5/5
Shame you did'nt show the bearing being removed!
Glenn Wright it was impossible for me to hold the camera while doing so + lots of oil comes flowing out. The extraction is quite easy with the right tool. Just a matter of screwing it onto the bearing center bolt and then wrenching it out. Putting the new one in is also quite easy with a plastic hammer. Good luck.
Thanks for your prompt response......thought it would be more complicated than that!
I see you under that car I cringe
This video has the shakiest camera I’ve ever seen. Impossible to view.
Kenneth Kassabian sorry to disappoint you. I didn’t set out to make a video; I had a job to do and recorded the different steps as best I could with greasy hands while working in difficult positions. Hopefully it helps a few people.
Pathetic, nothing wrong with the video and certainly not ‘impossible’ to watch
That's your cataracts videos fine