Hi Mark. I was trying to send this question to your website, but kept getting a send error. So I'm posting it here. First, I'd like to repeat that your videos have been instrumental in my progress with my CNC. I don't think I would be nearly as comfortable with it if it hadn't been for you. I'm pretty sure you've covered this, but I'm still a little hazy on it. I'm just starting to carve graphics in my signs, and am a little unsure of whether to check the flat depth box in the engraving toolpath setup screen. My understanding is that Vcarve 9.5 adjusts the cut depth according to the width of the line being carved, so the flat depth box should NOT be checked. Is this correct? I don't want to use up a lot of your time, so just a short answer will be fine. Thanks. Jim
First, thanks for the kind words. I do appreciate it. You are correct. VCarve adjusts the cut depth according to the width of the area being cut, based on the angle of the bit you're using. The only time you'll need to check the flat depth box and enter a number is when you want to keep the bit from cutting deeper than the depth you enter. For others who have asked, using the flat depth will NOT force the bit to cut to that depth - it prevents the bit from cutting beyond that depth. If the bit doesn't need to cut to that depth, it won't. Thanks for the question, Jim! (We're aware of the error message you got on the website, and are working on it. Just so you know, I DID get the message - all 3 times you tried to send it.)
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks for the quick reply, Mark. You clarified it quite well, and also answered what probably would have been my next question about limiting the depth of cut. One of my projects is a line drawing of a person. It has a couple of relatively large black areas where the person's hair is. So in this case, i'll leave the flat depth box checked, just in case. Thanks for all you do.
I guess im randomly asking but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost the login password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Killian Kairo I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
All of your content is great... but I am a little “cloudy” on saving the g code file to get it out to the Cnc machine. But you are the best I have found on TH-cam .. 👍👍👍
I demonstrated how to save g-code way back in Episode 4 of the Vectric for Absolute Beginners series. Here's a link to that video: th-cam.com/video/kFIkyl8tUFU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for your excellent Parts1/2/3 V-carving videos. The quality and detail at a speed I could easily follow has taught me a great deal. Most videos go at break neck speed but not yours! Thank you again.
I have never had a need to do a carve this way. I tried the other day and failed but it was a simple fix and just by watching your video pointed out exactly what mistake I made the first time. I just love your videos, thanks!
Mr Lindsay I know others have thanked you for these videos and I too will say thank you for sharing your knowledge with us newbies to vectric. I've been having my xcarve for a while now but am just now able to get vectric desktop and watching your step by step and listening to the information you've been giving me has helped so much. Again sir I thank you.
Well, thank you very much, Chad, but please call me Mark. I'm just a guy in a shed. Glad to hear it's starting to come together for you. Can't wait to see some pics (or video?) of your work!
Thanks Mark for creating these tutorials. I am new to CNC and will be getting my CNC later this year. I will be using your lessons to try and bring myself up to speed. I see I have a lot to learn just to be a novice. I will be going through every lesson. Thanks again for all your work in developing these steps for all of us Newbies to learn this package. Johnny
Awesome job Mark. Your videos are my cnc bible. I bought my machine knowing nothing about cnc routers. It just so happens it came with v carve desktop. So its easier for me to follow. I like your very through. Keep making videos I need them.
Thank you! I have no doubt you could do this - and you would rock it in short order. I've been a fan of your work for quite a while, and can't wait for things to settle down for you so you can get back into the groove. Keep the faith, brother - I am.
I am new to VCarve & Vbit CNCing. You are an outstanding educator. I just watched the first 3 parts for beginners and they were perfect for getting started. I look forward to watching more of your videos. Thank you.
Hey Mark. I saw this Sunday morning, but just now taking time to write. I've loved all of your videos on V-carving (and all the others, too), and this one did me an enormous amount of good. It was like a milestone in my understanding, especially what a finishing, or cleanup, cut actually does and how it does it. I hope you never get tired of making these videos, because I thoroughly enjoy every one of them.
Thank you very much for the kind words, Jim! I do hope folks are finding the videos useful. I'll keep making them for as long as folks still want them.
Thank You Mark for taking it 1 step at the time Yes you have assumed correct that some people have no clue ( I admit I am one of them ) You have no idea how helpful you are . Great educational videos Just got the cnc and the carbide design 3d is very limited Was looking for a decent easy to learn program and I came across v carve pro program and your channel that I"m vary grateful for . Thank You again Cornell N
I really appreciate your videos, Mark. You have a particular skill at teaching for beginners. Good pacing, and clear instruction. I'm using different software, but you include concepts as well as software-specific settings, so I'm able apply what you're talking about regardless. Thanks for the great videos.
Mark, Very Well Done. As for the V carve and Aspire your knowledge in these software and showing us all what some of the things in the software do help understand what to expect from a CNC machine. If it was Fusion 360 that is a completely different method of learning and how to do the same thing using that software tool. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks for the kind words! I have Fusion 360, and it's a great program. It's just the wrong program for what I do with my CNC. It's a pretty big hammer with a correspondingly steep learning curve. That's what I like so much about the Vectric titles. Within a short time of installing them, you can have a project finished and running on your machine.
Fabulous instructional videos Mark, I am not a beginner but I am just starting to use Vcarve Pro I was finding it difficult to come to grips with it but your videos are making it so much easier. thank you and keep up the good work.
I wish I had seen this video last week. When I cut my last project it took forever using a vbit because of the large letters. Now the next project I will use large area bit. Thanks for the video's. I always get something from them I will use.
Thanks for watching, Larry! That's one of the problems I have - SO many topics to do videos on and not enough time to get them all out quickly. Hopefully you can use this one to your advantage. Just keep plugging away at it!
Hi Mark - just love the way you present these videos - the slow pace gives you an opportunity to absorb and really understand what you are doing. I have a question which relates to carving a box from a solid piece of wood. To speed up the process of hogging out most of the material I would like to use a one-inch endmill but as I don't want the corners to have a one-inch radius I assume I would use a much smaller diameter end mill to do the finishing touches. How do you get the smaller endmill to just cover the parts not dealt with by the larger end mill in the same way as the v-carve bit does in the example you show?
Thank you very much! I do appreciate it, and I'm glad to hear you're finding the videos useful. For your question, it depends on which version of the software you're using. When you get into the Pocket toolpath, you'll see that you'll select tools to cut the pocket. In Version 10.0 and up, you can select as many tools as you think you'll need to cut that pocket. The larger diameter tools will mill out most of the material, and the smaller tools will carve away what the larger tools can't reach. In the older versions, you select the smallest tool you want to use first, then check "Use Large Area Clearance Tool," and select the bigger bit to hog out most of the material. No matter which version of the software you use, when you calculate the toolpath, it will calculate a separate toolpath for each bit you use. I know that I have demonstrated that process in several videos, but I can't remember exactly which ones off the top of my head.
I tried selecting a one-inch end mill and then a 1/8th inch end mill but when I pressed the calculate button I got a message reading "The following tools produced empty toolpaths. They may not be able to fit anywhere the previous tool could not with their current parameters. End Mill (1"): Pocket 1 [Clear 3} " Does that message mean that the toolpath would not work properly?
Hi - I've had v-carve for sa few years and had to self teach or use v-carve tutorials etc. None have helped as much as you have! Thank you! I can now use my machines potential much more than it ever was. I'm only a few videos in so far of your series, do you have any of machine and projects in real life - I.E. a real cut piece of material? BUT! Thank you so much- you are brilliant at explaining and showing how to use the program. I'm a fan already! in fact you are the only one I've subscribed to, please keep the videos coming! Best regards, Paul
Thank you very much, Paul! Glad to hear the videos are helping. Yes, I do have several videos int he playlist that include creating real projects on the CNC. There aren't as many of those, relatively speaking, as there are videos about the CAD/CAM side of the process. The focus of the series is to teach the design software, rather than the machine side of things. Mainly because every machine is different, so the way I do things may not be the way you do or should do things on your machine. Over time, I will be adding more project videos, as I'm trying to associate a method or technique with a real-world situation. The best way to do that, in my opinion, is to do a project from beginning to end, without including a lot of boring footage of a CNC going round and round.
@@MarkLindsayCNC , many thanks for your reply Mark, I have used your videos to practice techniques and they have made a huge difference to my projects. PLEASE KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK! I really cannot thank you enough for the way you explain it all in simple to understand terms - many other 'beginner' videos might as well be in Chinese for all the help they gave me - you are a real help. Love watching your videos and I re-watch several times over as every time I will pick up another useful tip. By far the most helpful I've found and so much easier than V-carves own tutorials. they should sponsor you, seriously! best regards, Paul
Hi Mark, Very cool project. Thanks so much for the tutorial. I'm going to attempt it, but I'm going to try and use Duets by Gemini from B.F. Plastics. This, if it works will save having to paint. I'm also will be using the hold down method you explained a while ago, using masking tape. I've used this a few times now and am completely sold. The only difference Is my layout. My CNC a 6040 is not wide enough, so I'm going to lay it out vertically. Thanks again.
Good luck! Let me know how it works out for you! (I would imagine this could be cut in Color Core or similar. I might have to get my hands on some and try it out...)
Thanks a lot for this tutorials. I am confident now to start creating a big welcome sign for a cabine in Austria for a friend. It's a challenge bevause I am going to try to make a big sign ( 1.5 m) on my small C Beam CNC machine. ( 5 tiles) Fingers crossed! 😉 Huub
Hey Mark - Really appreciate your videos. I notice in many of your videos that you keep your feeds and speeds down fairly low. Is that to ensure quality cuts? I see on many of your tools you are around 40/20 or so.
I was taught to start cutting shallow and to set a conservative feed and plunge rate. I use Mach3 control software, and it allows me to adjust the feed rate as the machine is cutting. I start at the feed rates you see in the Tool Database, then adjust the feed rate "on the fly" as I see how the machine is cutting the material. If I increase it to the point that I start hearing the bit chatter, I slow it back down and let it finish cutting at whatever feed rate is running best. So, basically, the feed rate you see in the tool database is seldom (if ever) the actual feed rate I end up cutting at. It's a starting point that I know is safe for most materials.
Hi Mark. Excellent video very instructive and clear language. Thank you.I have a question. What is the ideal spindle speed to cut MDF?. Thank you again.
Thank you very much! I couldn't tell you what is ideal. I use a router, not a spindle, and I have it set to 18k RPMs. I do all of my adjusting with the feed rate, adjusting it up or down as it cuts. It works for me.
Thanks so much for the instruction. I was wondering if painting could be avoided with this design, by using a dark MDF panel, with the surface painted white or some other light color? I’m unsure whether paint chipping could be expected, but perhaps you have tried it?
That method works very well. Just be sure to let the paint dry for a minimum of 24 hours before you carve it - 48 hours is better, depending on the paint.
Mark when you draw with your material centered on your CNC you would have to mount your material in that spot to cut correct? I am used to using datum on the lower left and that's where i mount my material for cutting. I know you mentioned using the center for drawing but didn't know if you changed it later.
Yes Jim. I've mentioned several times in my videos that I set my X, Y, and Z zeros to the bottom left corner outside on the CNC. I set the X Y Datum to the center when I design and draw the pattern. In my videos, I calculate the toolpaths without changing it, but in real life, I go into Material Setup in the Toolpath Tab and change over to the lower left corner before I calculate the toolpaths. I do it this way to keep from confusing folks with too many instructions that may or may not apply to them. I demonstrate that in the Model a 3D Barn Star video that goes live Sunday, April 5th.
Thank You Mark Lindsy.... Very easy instruction to follow. Can you tell me what you use to make sketches (one line drawings) before you bring them into fusion or can you make one line drawings in fusion or should I call them 2D drawings? I was an auto cad user back in the day all though I don't have auto cad anymore lol.
I draw in Aspire, and occasionally in a CAD program called Draftsight. I don't use Fusion 360, and never really have, so I don't know what file types it will import.
Mark. Your videos are awesome! Question can you have more then 1 hogging tool / tool path? Lets say one 1/4 " and then a second at 1/8". Thanks for your hard work.
Yes, Gerald, you can IF you're running Version 10 of the software or above. Starting in Version 10, you can enter multiple bits int he Larger Area Clearance Tool blank. I've personally put 5 bits in there just to see if it would do it. Yes, it will. If you're using a version older than Version 10, you'll have to make separate v-carve or pocket toolpaths, as you have a maximum of 2 bits per toolpath. If you can, I would highly recommend you upgrade to Version 10. It really is worth it.
Hi Mark. Thanks for a good series. What is the decision process regarding the pattern cutout -- It seems to me that the 1/8" cutter is the "roughing" tool and you would want to run that before the v-carve bit. Thanks for any insight.
Good question, Robert. I find that I get a better end result by running the v-bit first. This is especially true when the two toolpaths will result in leaving thin areas that are only supported on the bottom. An example of this would be toward the center of the design in this video. When you carve away the materials that I colored black in the video, the uncolored areas are pretty narrow in the center. If I run the clearance bit first, that'll leave these narrow strips to be carved with the v-bit. There's a huge likelihood that one or more of them will just break off and get sucked up into the dust collector, ruining the project. If I run the v-bit first, it carves the angle into the surface of the flat stock, reducing the likelihood of the strip breaking away. When I then run the clearance pass, the clearance bit will be far enough away from that strip that it shouldn't come into contact with it at all. It's not a 100% guarantee, but it works more often than not. Give it a try on your next v-carve project that uses a clearance pass. You'll probably never go back to running the v-bit after the clearance bit again.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks so much for a quick reply. I have to "turn my brain" sometimes from my conventional machining background. What you describe makes a lot of sense.
Hi there.. is Luis from Mexico City, I really appreciate your explanation, I´m kind of new in CNC router but this video helps me a lot, I´m trying to do an Inlay, does this also works or there´s a better option. Regrads
Thank you, Luis. I really can't answer your question because I haven't done any inlays yet. I'm getting ready to do my first, so it will be a few weeks before I can do a video on the technique.
Mark, I have been learning a lot from watching your videos. you really take the time to explain things well. I have been puzzled for some time on a project. I need some help in v carve pro v10. I make benches that require a 1 inch square hole that is 1 inch deep and one side of the hole needs a 10 degree taper, to hold a square, tapered peg. I know how to cut a square hole with straight sides, but how do i program the 10 degree tapered side?
Hi Mark, I just watched this great video you have just uploaded. I have one question/remark why do you use the post processor that you do? I use the Mach2/3 ATC Arcs (inch) (*.txt) post processor. All tool paths are in one Tool G-Code File to be taken to the CNC computer with my flash drive. It just uses the tool change M6. It stops for the tool change for me in the G code. Thank You for another great Video Mark.
Thanks for the great comment, Jerry. The main reason for my choice of post-processor in these videos is to keep things simple for the viewer. Remember that this is a video series on how to v-carve that's geared toward the person who has never done anything like this before. It would be way, way out of the scope of a video like this to introduce the subject of the ATC post-processor. In fact, it's a good idea for a short stand-alone video of its own (thanks for that!) I have used the ATC post-processor, and it's a great option. I just think a CAD/CAM tutorial on the basics of v-carving would be the wrong place to introduce it. I find that the tutorials provided by most software companies make several mistakes. First, they assume the viewer already knows what they're doing, and just needs help finding the tools in their software. Second, they complicate matters by trying to cram a ton of info into a single video - to the point that you forget which video that one little nugget of info was in. I try to avoid that by focusing on one subject, trying to explain that subject to the best of my knowledge and ability, and assuming the viewer has never done this before, and needs that basic info. Yours IS a good idea, and I will put it on the list for a future stand-alone video. Thanks for watching and commenting! I do appreciate it!
Thank you! I do explain this in later videos, but the gist of it is that I do all of my designing and layout work with the X Y datum set to the center. I change it to the lower left corner before I calculate toolpaths, unless the file I'm creating is just for demonstration purposes. I find it easier to do my designing and layout with the X Y zeros in the center of the material, but that's just me. Feel free to use whichever X Y datum position you prefer.
"Public Domain" simply means the image has no copyright, and is free for the public to use for any reason. As for which image format to download, I usually get the best results with a PNG or SVG file. Those options aren't always available, however. DXF is a vector file format, that can be imported into Vectric software, but it doesn't require tracing. The vectors are already there for you.
I'm new to the CNC world with a new machine: Axiom CNC V5 PRO. I would like to know why on my machine the estimated time to finish the job differs so much from yours. On my machine: V Carve Partner (V Bit 90) the estimated time is 2:00 hs V Carve Partner (Pocket) 2:03hs and Profile Cut out (End Mill) 00:24 min. On your machine it is much less than that, it is about 00:40 min. What did I do wrong? Thanks,
And one other Question... in Fusion 360 there is an option thats called "rest material remove" that is called "flat area clearance" i guess. Is it possible to add more than two bits used for VCarve and the clearance tool? For example i want to reduce the time the VBit would take away the rest material in small/tight corners or areas. Instead of let the Vbit make the work after the clearance toll took away a lot of material but left material in corners etc., i would like to use again just a smaller clearance tool (maybe 1/3 the diameter of that first "flat area clearance tool") before the Vbit takes away the very fine areas! Is that possible in VCarve Pro?! Thanks so much for helping me out ! Regards from Germany!
Hey Mark. I just worked with Fusion360 until now… so sorry for my Questions! I always wonder what the V-Bits tip looks like u are using!? Is it ground without a tip radius to 0,00 / does your VBits have a flat tip, and if yes, what is the flat tip radius and where can i edit the tip radius of an Vbit in VCarve? Thanks so much
The v-bits I use come to a sharp point - they don't have a flat or radiused tip. Check out the Vectric tutorial on the Tool Database, starting at about the 14 minute mark - they show you how to enter a new Forming Tool by creating a vector of the bit. That's how you would enter a new v-bit with a flat or radiused tip. You can get to that tutorial by opening VCarve, clicking the Help menu, then clicking Video Tutorial Browser. In the window that opens, scroll down to the General Topics section and click on the Tool Database Guide tutorial. Thanks for checking out my video!
You're not doing anything wrong at all. It should be there. If it's not, you can draw a rectangle around it to use as the outside border, and size it however you like it.
Hi Mark. I was trying to send this question to your website, but kept getting a send error. So I'm posting it here. First, I'd like to repeat that your videos have been instrumental in my progress with my CNC. I don't think I would be nearly as comfortable with it if it hadn't been for you.
I'm pretty sure you've covered this, but I'm still a little hazy on it. I'm just starting to carve graphics in my signs, and am a little unsure of whether to check the flat depth box in the engraving toolpath setup screen. My understanding is that Vcarve 9.5 adjusts the cut depth according to the width of the line being carved, so the flat depth box should NOT be checked. Is this correct? I don't want to use up a lot of your time, so just a short answer will be fine.
Thanks. Jim
First, thanks for the kind words. I do appreciate it.
You are correct. VCarve adjusts the cut depth according to the width of the area being cut, based on the angle of the bit you're using. The only time you'll need to check the flat depth box and enter a number is when you want to keep the bit from cutting deeper than the depth you enter.
For others who have asked, using the flat depth will NOT force the bit to cut to that depth - it prevents the bit from cutting beyond that depth. If the bit doesn't need to cut to that depth, it won't.
Thanks for the question, Jim! (We're aware of the error message you got on the website, and are working on it. Just so you know, I DID get the message - all 3 times you tried to send it.)
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks for the quick reply, Mark. You clarified it quite well, and also answered what probably would have been my next question about limiting the depth of cut. One of my projects is a line drawing of a person. It has a couple of relatively large black areas where the person's hair is. So in this case, i'll leave the flat depth box checked, just in case. Thanks for all you do.
I guess im randomly asking but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost the login password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Jayceon Arthur Instablaster =)
@Killian Kairo I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Great explanation of v-carve bit/end mill bit and their trade-offs.
Merci pour vos vidéos que je regarde en boucle avant d’acquérir Vcarve
All of your content is great... but I am a little “cloudy” on saving the g code file to get it out to the Cnc machine. But you are the best I have found on TH-cam .. 👍👍👍
I demonstrated how to save g-code way back in Episode 4 of the Vectric for Absolute Beginners series. Here's a link to that video: th-cam.com/video/kFIkyl8tUFU/w-d-xo.html
Great job, very clear and detailed explanations. I really like the pace of your voice, calm... Many thanks!
Thank you for your excellent Parts1/2/3 V-carving videos. The quality and detail at a speed I could easily follow has taught me a great deal. Most videos go at break neck speed but not yours! Thank you again.
Mark, you are an awesome teacher. Love your clear lessons.
I have never had a need to do a carve this way. I tried the other day and failed but it was a simple fix and just by watching your video pointed out exactly what mistake I made the first time. I just love your videos, thanks!
Mr Lindsay I know others have thanked you for these videos and I too will say thank you for sharing your knowledge with us newbies to vectric. I've been having my xcarve for a while now but am just now able to get vectric desktop and watching your step by step and listening to the information you've been giving me has helped so much. Again sir I thank you.
Well, thank you very much, Chad, but please call me Mark. I'm just a guy in a shed.
Glad to hear it's starting to come together for you. Can't wait to see some pics (or video?) of your work!
Thank you Mark. Great help
Thanks Mark for creating these tutorials. I am new to CNC and will be getting my CNC later this year.
I will be using your lessons to try and bring myself up to speed. I see I have a lot to learn just to be a novice. I will be going through every lesson.
Thanks again for all your work in developing these steps for all of us Newbies to learn this package.
Johnny
another video watched. ty again, im learning alot
Awesome job Mark. Your videos are my cnc bible. I bought my machine knowing nothing about cnc routers. It just so happens it came with v carve desktop. So its easier for me to follow. I like your very through. Keep making videos I need them.
I don't have a CNC but still enjoy these videos ,you explain it so well I think even I could do it !!
Thank you! I have no doubt you could do this - and you would rock it in short order. I've been a fan of your work for quite a while, and can't wait for things to settle down for you so you can get back into the groove. Keep the faith, brother - I am.
Great video
I am new to VCarve & Vbit CNCing. You are an outstanding educator. I just watched the first 3 parts for beginners and they were perfect for getting started. I look forward to watching more of your videos. Thank you.
Thank you very much! I'm glad you're finding them helpful.
Hey Mark. I saw this Sunday morning, but just now taking time to write. I've loved all of your videos on V-carving (and all the others, too), and this one did me an enormous amount of good. It was like a milestone in my understanding, especially what a finishing, or cleanup, cut actually does and how it does it.
I hope you never get tired of making these videos, because I thoroughly enjoy every one of them.
Thank you very much for the kind words, Jim! I do hope folks are finding the videos useful. I'll keep making them for as long as folks still want them.
Very informative most helpful channel so far
Thanks Mark for a great series of videos. I’ve been carving with VCarve for 4 years and learn quite a bit from your beginners series of videos.
Thank you for the kind words, and I'm glad you found the series useful!
Thank You Mark for taking it 1 step at the time
Yes you have assumed correct that some people have no clue ( I admit I am one of them )
You have no idea how helpful you are .
Great educational videos
Just got the cnc and the carbide design 3d is very limited
Was looking for a decent easy to learn program and I came across v carve pro program and your channel that I"m vary grateful for .
Thank You again
Cornell N
What a great series, thanks Mark
I love your videos. As a very new person to CNC they are helping me tremendously
Thank you very much! Glad you're finding the videos helpful.
These videos are so helpful. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with others.
Thanks for watching, Austin!
Thanks Mark, excellent video! Really helping me understand VCARVE
I really appreciate your videos, Mark. You have a particular skill at teaching for beginners. Good pacing, and clear instruction. I'm using different software, but you include concepts as well as software-specific settings, so I'm able apply what you're talking about regardless. Thanks for the great videos.
Thank you very much, Barry! I'm glad you're finding them helpful!
I thank you heartily for your help. Here in Brazil we do not have this type of information easily available. Thank you so much.
Thank you for watching! I hope it helps you out!
Far out that's going to be fun to play with. Thanks again Mark.
Thanks for checking it out, Ron. Have fun with it!
Another video that is full of good info ...Great Job Mark
Thanks for watching! I hope they're helping!
Mark, Very Well Done. As for the V carve and Aspire your knowledge in these software and showing us all what some of the things in the software do help understand what to expect from a CNC machine. If it was Fusion 360 that is a completely different method of learning and how to do the same thing using that software tool. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks for the kind words! I have Fusion 360, and it's a great program. It's just the wrong program for what I do with my CNC. It's a pretty big hammer with a correspondingly steep learning curve. That's what I like so much about the Vectric titles. Within a short time of installing them, you can have a project finished and running on your machine.
Fabulous instructional videos Mark, I am not a beginner but I am just starting to use Vcarve Pro I was finding it difficult to come to grips with it but your videos are making it so much easier. thank you and keep up the good work.
Thank you very much! I do appreciate it.
I wish I had seen this video last week. When I cut my last project it took forever using a vbit because of the large letters. Now the next project I will use large area bit. Thanks for the video's. I always get something from them I will use.
Thanks for watching, Larry! That's one of the problems I have - SO many topics to do videos on and not enough time to get them all out quickly. Hopefully you can use this one to your advantage. Just keep plugging away at it!
Thanks Mark I enjoy your video's.
Great video Mark!!!
Thanks, Lyle!
Great job as always Mark. Keep up the good work.
Thank you sir! Hope you find it helpful!
Hi Mark - just love the way you present these videos - the slow pace gives you an opportunity to absorb and really understand what you are doing. I have a question which relates to carving a box from a solid piece of wood. To speed up the process of hogging out most of the material I would like to use a one-inch endmill but as I don't want the corners to have a one-inch radius I assume I would use a much smaller diameter end mill to do the finishing touches. How do you get the smaller endmill to just cover the parts not dealt with by the larger end mill in the same way as the v-carve bit does in the example you show?
Thank you very much! I do appreciate it, and I'm glad to hear you're finding the videos useful. For your question, it depends on which version of the software you're using. When you get into the Pocket toolpath, you'll see that you'll select tools to cut the pocket. In Version 10.0 and up, you can select as many tools as you think you'll need to cut that pocket. The larger diameter tools will mill out most of the material, and the smaller tools will carve away what the larger tools can't reach. In the older versions, you select the smallest tool you want to use first, then check "Use Large Area Clearance Tool," and select the bigger bit to hog out most of the material. No matter which version of the software you use, when you calculate the toolpath, it will calculate a separate toolpath for each bit you use. I know that I have demonstrated that process in several videos, but I can't remember exactly which ones off the top of my head.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thank you for your very prompt response. I am using version 10.507 but I do not see how one goes about selecting multiple tools
I tried selecting a one-inch end mill and then a 1/8th inch end mill but when I pressed the calculate button I got a message reading
"The following tools produced empty toolpaths. They may not be able to fit anywhere the previous tool could not with their current parameters. End Mill (1"): Pocket 1 [Clear 3} "
Does that message mean that the toolpath would not work properly?
Yes it does. Try adding a 1/4 inch end mill between the 1 inch and the 1/8 inch and see if that would work.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks Mark - it works fine
Merci pour ces vidéos! J'ai beaucoup appris!
Nice video and I like the information that you provided. Thanks again
Thank you for watching, Joe! I do hope it was helpful.
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Hi - I've had v-carve for sa few years and had to self teach or use v-carve tutorials etc. None have helped as much as you have! Thank you! I can now use my machines potential much more than it ever was. I'm only a few videos in so far of your series, do you have any of machine and projects in real life - I.E. a real cut piece of material? BUT! Thank you so much- you are brilliant at explaining and showing how to use the program. I'm a fan already! in fact you are the only one I've subscribed to, please keep the videos coming! Best regards, Paul
Thank you very much, Paul! Glad to hear the videos are helping. Yes, I do have several videos int he playlist that include creating real projects on the CNC. There aren't as many of those, relatively speaking, as there are videos about the CAD/CAM side of the process. The focus of the series is to teach the design software, rather than the machine side of things. Mainly because every machine is different, so the way I do things may not be the way you do or should do things on your machine. Over time, I will be adding more project videos, as I'm trying to associate a method or technique with a real-world situation. The best way to do that, in my opinion, is to do a project from beginning to end, without including a lot of boring footage of a CNC going round and round.
@@MarkLindsayCNC , many thanks for your reply Mark, I have used your videos to practice techniques and they have made a huge difference to my projects. PLEASE KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK! I really cannot thank you enough for the way you explain it all in simple to understand terms - many other 'beginner' videos might as well be in Chinese for all the help they gave me - you are a real help. Love watching your videos and I re-watch several times over as every time I will pick up another useful tip. By far the most helpful I've found and so much easier than V-carves own tutorials. they should sponsor you, seriously! best regards, Paul
Hi Mark, Very cool project. Thanks so much for the tutorial. I'm going to attempt it, but I'm going to try and use Duets by Gemini from B.F. Plastics. This, if it works will save having to paint. I'm also will be using the hold down method you explained a while ago, using masking tape. I've used this a few times now and am completely sold. The only difference Is my layout. My CNC a 6040 is not wide enough, so I'm going to lay it out vertically. Thanks again.
Good luck! Let me know how it works out for you! (I would imagine this could be cut in Color Core or similar. I might have to get my hands on some and try it out...)
Thanks Mark!
Thanks for checking it out! I hope it helped!
Thank you a lot !!!
Great video Mark thanks !!!
Thank you, Geert!
Thanks a lot for this tutorials.
I am confident now to start creating a big welcome sign for a cabine in Austria for a friend.
It's a challenge bevause I am going to try to make a big sign ( 1.5 m) on my small C Beam CNC machine. ( 5 tiles)
Fingers crossed! 😉
Huub
You got this! Thank you very much for the kind words!
great
Hey Mark - Really appreciate your videos. I notice in many of your videos that you keep your feeds and speeds down fairly low. Is that to ensure quality cuts? I see on many of your tools you are around 40/20 or so.
I was taught to start cutting shallow and to set a conservative feed and plunge rate. I use Mach3 control software, and it allows me to adjust the feed rate as the machine is cutting. I start at the feed rates you see in the Tool Database, then adjust the feed rate "on the fly" as I see how the machine is cutting the material. If I increase it to the point that I start hearing the bit chatter, I slow it back down and let it finish cutting at whatever feed rate is running best. So, basically, the feed rate you see in the tool database is seldom (if ever) the actual feed rate I end up cutting at. It's a starting point that I know is safe for most materials.
Hi Mark. Excellent video very instructive and clear language. Thank you.I have a question. What is the ideal spindle speed to cut MDF?. Thank you again.
Thank you very much! I couldn't tell you what is ideal. I use a router, not a spindle, and I have it set to 18k RPMs. I do all of my adjusting with the feed rate, adjusting it up or down as it cuts. It works for me.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Than you Mark
Thanks so much for the instruction. I was wondering if painting could be avoided with this design, by using a dark MDF panel, with the surface painted white or some other light color? I’m unsure whether paint chipping could be expected, but perhaps you have tried it?
That method works very well. Just be sure to let the paint dry for a minimum of 24 hours before you carve it - 48 hours is better, depending on the paint.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thank you, sir!
Mark when you draw with your material centered on your CNC you would have to mount your material in that spot to cut correct? I am used to using datum on the lower left and that's where i mount my material for cutting. I know you mentioned using the center for drawing but didn't know if you changed it later.
Yes Jim. I've mentioned several times in my videos that I set my X, Y, and Z zeros to the bottom left corner outside on the CNC. I set the X Y Datum to the center when I design and draw the pattern. In my videos, I calculate the toolpaths without changing it, but in real life, I go into Material Setup in the Toolpath Tab and change over to the lower left corner before I calculate the toolpaths. I do it this way to keep from confusing folks with too many instructions that may or may not apply to them. I demonstrate that in the Model a 3D Barn Star video that goes live Sunday, April 5th.
Thank You Mark Lindsy.... Very easy instruction to follow. Can you tell me what you use to make sketches (one line drawings) before you bring them into fusion or can you make one line drawings in fusion or should I call them 2D drawings? I was an auto cad user back in the day all though I don't have auto cad anymore lol.
I draw in Aspire, and occasionally in a CAD program called Draftsight. I don't use Fusion 360, and never really have, so I don't know what file types it will import.
Thanks for sharing, btw I don’t know how VECTRIC don’t sponsor you! Great tips and demonstrations.
Thank you very much!
Mark. Your videos are awesome! Question can you have more then 1 hogging tool / tool path? Lets say one 1/4 " and then a second at 1/8". Thanks for your hard work.
Yes, Gerald, you can IF you're running Version 10 of the software or above. Starting in Version 10, you can enter multiple bits int he Larger Area Clearance Tool blank. I've personally put 5 bits in there just to see if it would do it. Yes, it will. If you're using a version older than Version 10, you'll have to make separate v-carve or pocket toolpaths, as you have a maximum of 2 bits per toolpath. If you can, I would highly recommend you upgrade to Version 10. It really is worth it.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks
Hi Mark. Thanks for a good series. What is the decision process regarding the pattern cutout -- It seems to me that the 1/8" cutter is the "roughing" tool and you would want to run that before the v-carve bit. Thanks for any insight.
Good question, Robert. I find that I get a better end result by running the v-bit first. This is especially true when the two toolpaths will result in leaving thin areas that are only supported on the bottom. An example of this would be toward the center of the design in this video. When you carve away the materials that I colored black in the video, the uncolored areas are pretty narrow in the center. If I run the clearance bit first, that'll leave these narrow strips to be carved with the v-bit. There's a huge likelihood that one or more of them will just break off and get sucked up into the dust collector, ruining the project. If I run the v-bit first, it carves the angle into the surface of the flat stock, reducing the likelihood of the strip breaking away. When I then run the clearance pass, the clearance bit will be far enough away from that strip that it shouldn't come into contact with it at all. It's not a 100% guarantee, but it works more often than not. Give it a try on your next v-carve project that uses a clearance pass. You'll probably never go back to running the v-bit after the clearance bit again.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks so much for a quick reply. I have to "turn my brain" sometimes from my conventional machining background. What you describe makes a lot of sense.
nice video thanks , you never mention if you have redo the z code when changing bits
Hi there.. is Luis from Mexico City, I really appreciate your explanation, I´m kind of new in CNC router but this video helps me a lot, I´m trying to do an Inlay, does this also works or there´s a better option. Regrads
Thank you, Luis. I really can't answer your question because I haven't done any inlays yet. I'm getting ready to do my first, so it will be a few weeks before I can do a video on the technique.
👍
Mark, I have been learning a lot from watching your videos. you really take the time to explain things well. I have been puzzled for some time on a project. I need some help in v carve pro v10.
I make benches that require a 1 inch square hole that is 1 inch deep and one side of the hole needs a 10 degree taper, to hold a square, tapered peg. I know how to cut a square hole with straight sides, but how do i program the 10 degree tapered side?
Hi Mark, I just watched this great video you have just uploaded. I have one question/remark why do you use the post processor that you do? I use the Mach2/3 ATC Arcs (inch) (*.txt) post processor. All tool paths are in one Tool G-Code File to be taken to the CNC computer with my flash drive. It just uses the tool change M6. It stops for the tool change for me in the G code. Thank You for another great Video Mark.
Thanks for the great comment, Jerry. The main reason for my choice of post-processor in these videos is to keep things simple for the viewer. Remember that this is a video series on how to v-carve that's geared toward the person who has never done anything like this before. It would be way, way out of the scope of a video like this to introduce the subject of the ATC post-processor. In fact, it's a good idea for a short stand-alone video of its own (thanks for that!) I have used the ATC post-processor, and it's a great option. I just think a CAD/CAM tutorial on the basics of v-carving would be the wrong place to introduce it.
I find that the tutorials provided by most software companies make several mistakes. First, they assume the viewer already knows what they're doing, and just needs help finding the tools in their software. Second, they complicate matters by trying to cram a ton of info into a single video - to the point that you forget which video that one little nugget of info was in. I try to avoid that by focusing on one subject, trying to explain that subject to the best of my knowledge and ability, and assuming the viewer has never done this before, and needs that basic info. Yours IS a good idea, and I will put it on the list for a future stand-alone video.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I do appreciate it!
Can I ask why you always work from the center of material?
Is that where you set your x,y at machine(cnc)
Thank you! I do explain this in later videos, but the gist of it is that I do all of my designing and layout work with the X Y datum set to the center. I change it to the lower left corner before I calculate toolpaths, unless the file I'm creating is just for demonstration purposes. I find it easier to do my designing and layout with the X Y zeros in the center of the material, but that's just me. Feel free to use whichever X Y datum position you prefer.
When saving an image on a public domain, what format should it be saved in? svg, dxf?
"Public Domain" simply means the image has no copyright, and is free for the public to use for any reason. As for which image format to download, I usually get the best results with a PNG or SVG file. Those options aren't always available, however. DXF is a vector file format, that can be imported into Vectric software, but it doesn't require tracing. The vectors are already there for you.
I'm new to the CNC world with a new machine: Axiom CNC V5 PRO.
I would like to know why on my machine the estimated time to finish the job differs so much from yours.
On my machine:
V Carve Partner (V Bit 90) the estimated time is 2:00 hs
V Carve Partner (Pocket) 2:03hs
and Profile Cut out (End Mill) 00:24 min.
On your machine it is much less than that, it is about 00:40 min.
What did I do wrong?
Thanks,
And one other Question... in Fusion 360 there is an option thats called "rest material remove" that is called "flat area clearance" i guess. Is it possible to add more than two bits used for VCarve and the clearance tool? For example i want to reduce the time the VBit would take away the rest material in small/tight corners or areas. Instead of let the Vbit make the work after the clearance toll took away a lot of material but left material in corners etc., i would like to use again just a smaller clearance tool (maybe 1/3 the diameter of that first "flat area clearance tool") before the Vbit takes away the very fine areas! Is that possible in VCarve Pro?! Thanks so much for helping me out ! Regards from Germany!
Hey Mark. I just worked with Fusion360 until now… so sorry for my Questions! I always wonder what the V-Bits tip looks like u are using!? Is it ground without a tip radius to 0,00 / does your VBits have a flat tip, and if yes, what is the flat tip radius and where can i edit the tip radius of an Vbit in VCarve? Thanks so much
The v-bits I use come to a sharp point - they don't have a flat or radiused tip. Check out the Vectric tutorial on the Tool Database, starting at about the 14 minute mark - they show you how to enter a new Forming Tool by creating a vector of the bit. That's how you would enter a new v-bit with a flat or radiused tip. You can get to that tutorial by opening VCarve, clicking the Help menu, then clicking Video Tutorial Browser. In the window that opens, scroll down to the General Topics section and click on the Tool Database Guide tutorial. Thanks for checking out my video!
Hi Mark, when downloading the spiral dxf file it imports without the outside border. what am I doing wrong
You're not doing anything wrong at all. It should be there. If it's not, you can draw a rectangle around it to use as the outside border, and size it however you like it.
Mark, I tried to email you, got an error message.
Try it again, Gerry - it's working for me and my webmaster.