Best Heated Chicken Waterer| DIY Tips| Troubleshooting Instructions
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2020
- We have designed the best, foolproof heated chicken water system so you no longer have to worry about frozen water in the winter. We show exactly how it works, so you can DIY it and we also show troubleshooting instructions if your system isn't working perfectly.
We constantly aim to take all the chores out of keeping chickens and believe along with our walk-in chicken coops, this heated waterer is just another example of our 'set it and forget it' products.
This video was shot outside the Carolina Coops shop in upstate NY on Jan. 9, 2020 when it was 14° F outside.
You can buy our basic poultry water system here:
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You can buy components to make the basic poultry system freeze proof here. You would need the rain barrel (and stand), heat-it thermostatic switch, and the submergible water tank heater. ⬇️
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Thx for suffering through the cold to give us a great video.
thanks for watching
I had dreamed up basically this exact setup and was looking for videos comparable to my idea. Great video, and the provided Amazon list has made my job much easier, thank you for the help!❤
Matt's got straight passion for chicken coops
Nice set up! Interesting.
I just use a cookie tin with a light bulb inside. Set the metal water pan on top and it works great. I like simplicity.
You guys are awesome. Love your designs.
Nice to see your video quality is now better 😁
editing. 😉
Looove your passion! Love your honesty! So impressive!!! I wanted to get one of your coops… best out there
Thoughtful throughout
Thank you!!! You made my day!!!
Something to consider, a bib valve diverter (or some sort of fab'ed pvc manifold) would allow you to bypass the main barrel, and flush the system with a 5 gallon "mini" barrel using a bit of chlorine bleach. Connect to bottom of the flush bucket to the diverter closing off the main barrel feed and then open the line out to the water bars. Do the same to bypass the return and divert it into the bucket. Flush for 30 mins to de-gunk the water bars, then drain the bleach water pumped into a second bucket to dump into your toilet or sink, divert the fresh water from the main barrel back into the system allowing the fresh water to fill the drain bucket 2-3 times 15 gallons) before diverting it back into the main return. Once a month in the spring, summer and fall when the pump may never kick on. May not be a bad Idea to run the pump once a week, or an hour a day on a timer vs the therma switch, just to keep it in proper function as things don't like to sit unused.
TullyRiverQuail
What kind of pump do you use? I noticed that it is not putting out a high volume of water and is able to allow pass through when the temp outlet turns off when it is warm. I was going to turn my watering system into an auto system and was looking for a good pump and was just wondering what one you guys recommend. Thanks allot for your videos, beautiful work you do!
I run a setup that uses a de-icer similar in that it has/had a chew guard, the metal spring like thing on the cord. That needs to be removed in this application as it will rust and contaminate the water. It is a simple removal. I do like your system in as it is very straight forward and should be very easy to troubleshoot even without your explanation and tutorial here. Any system will freeze if the power is off too long but in that event this system should be quick to disassemble and would thaw quickly to be reassembled again.
Thanks for your comments, we hope this will help people. And yes, for this system to work, it requires power.
What metal spring?
@@cgbanny The de-icer, or heater, is intended to be used in watering troughs or buckets for livestock. As such it has a metal chew guard that looks like a spring that is wrapped around the cord. That chew guard will rust in a single season so it should be removed in this application as there is no risk of an animal chewing the cord.
Hiiii
Im making this system… thank youuuuu Amazon questions say the pump is not good safe? I got the one from your link…
Do you have a food safe one? Any issues?
Great video! Have you ever hooked up two separate water bars in the same line? I'm thinking of putting one inside the coop (converted from an insulated shed), and then running the line through the wall for another bar outside. The main thing I can think of is making sure there aren't any places where air can get trapped. Any other tips/thoughts on that?
Water inside the coop is not the best idea. Inevitably it's gonna drip a bit, get spashed around or maybe even spring a leak and soak everything. Moisture in the coop is a bad thing, especially in the winter...can contribute to frozen combs or wattles...
What size PVC pipe is that?
Do you ever have trouble with that pump randomly shutting off for some reason? It might be related to cold temperatures (it's not frozen though) . Starts back up after some period. Not related to power.
I really like your quality coop builds and great videos, thank you! Do you sell the pump for self-builds of this anti-freeze watering system? If not, do you mind sharing make/model?
Hi Keith, we have a list of the replacement parts here.
carolinacoops.com/shop/products-we-love-replacement-parts/
Thanks for watching.
I have similar model in my coop. Your more than welcome to come see. I'm in Berryville arkansas. I have 20 chickens.
I love this water system! Makes owning chickens so easy. Do you recommend putting apple cider vinegar into the rain barrel?
Many people add ACV to their chicken water, and people swear by it, but there is no scientific evidence that it is a benefit for backyard chickens. So it's really a personal preference. Thanks for your comments.
Why run the thermostatic switch and just run the pump 24/7 all winter long?
Can you put the pump on the other side of the water bar?
Can you keep the pump connected in summer, will the water gravity flow without pump running?
Hi I just ran into your
design and it’s definitely smart! Question: why do you need a thermo controlled outlet? Shouldn’t it be on all the time to make sure proper circulation of the water?
There is a thermostatic switch that kicks on and off depending on the temperature. So the system doesn't have to be running when it warms up during the day often times. Thanks for watching.
Are you using pvc bulkhead or brass on the barrel?
What about setting the water barrel a little higher than the water bibs. You’ll use gravity as the best pressure to send water to the coop.
It is essentially a gravity fed system. However, with the pump, it circulates so the rain barrel is on a base and the water feeds into the waterbar and returns back to the barrel. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video. My hose from barrel to pump leaks where it is connected to the pump. The threads are sealed, but the hose leaks where hose connects to its threaded connector as if back pressure is too high. I have tried a few hoses so it is not a defective hose. This leak happens both when pump is on and off. Any suggestions how to resolve this would be greatly appreciated.
We hope to answer this on Video Chicken Live, year end special. Dec. 31st 2021.
Thank you very much for the description! Will the water continue to fill the pipe when the pump isn't running?
Hi Ken, without the pump running, it works as a gravity fed waterbar. So yes, the waterbar will have water in there for the flock.
@@CarolinaCoopsVideos awesome! Building it tomorrow! Thank you very much
I already have a self-made water bar system with the spring loaded cups for the summer months. Our piping is smaller in diameter. Do you recommend a certain diameter pipe with the pump?
I’d be worried about the cups themselves freezing up with water. I’ve used chicken nipples and they seem to work better. Also I just use a 35 gallon tank in the run. The chicken nipples screw into the tank an inch or two up from the bottom and the water heater goes in the tank. No pump needed.
I have this exact set up here in Wisconsin and love it. Worked perfectly even with 55 below wind chills. But this year the water nipples keep freezing. Anyone know why this would happen when the weather is actually warmer than it was last year?
Hi. There are many reasons why your system can be failing. You need to check that the pump is working and kicking on when the temps get lower. Make sure the pump is plugged into the thermostatic switch (Heat-it). Check to. make sure both the Heat-it and the De-icer is working. Also make sure you are getting enough water flowing into the waterbar with the pump running. It's a great system when everything is working properly, but if something isn't right, it can fail.
Thank you! Everything is working well. The only thing I’ll check once the weather warms up is the Submersible Heater. It’s been in the water barrel for about a year and a half now and maybe there is some hard water buildup on it which is not allowing the water in the water barrel and Waterbar to be warm enough to keep the nipples from freezing.
Nice system.
You guys need to update your links though.
Thanks, we just did. Appreciate it.
Why not have the pump circulating the water all the time regardless of temp? Wouldn't that continuous movement help keep the water fresher and not stagnate when it's warm?
Many people do just that Gerry. It's not necessary. Sometimes we advise to run the pump occasionally in the warmer months, or dump the water and fill it up with new water. Many people don't want to tax the pump but having it run all year round or use the electricity to do so. But it's totally an option with this system.
Would it. Or be a bad idea to leave pump on to keep your water cleaner. Also could you not turn the heater on and off at 35 and 45
you can unplug the thermostatic plug and just run it with the pump, yes. We don't feel like it's necessary to do that all the time, but maybe a few times in the season.
I'm in Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada where temperatures can hit -50 celcius. Would you add heat to a chicken coop in these temperatures and do you know of a water system that will work in these conditions?
I had similar questions.
I live in Montana and we do -30f.
I am currently building a small barn for my birds and considering putting in a recirculating system attached to a water heater.
Since I don't want the water to be too hot for the birds it will first run through 500' of pex to cool the water, but give a bit of heat to the barn as well.
Crossing my fingers this will work 😉
I understand that the heater is self regulating. Why do you have the pump on a thermostat? will the water flow on it's own when the temperature is high enough? I would think that the water should flow at all times to keep it from stagnating
Thanks for your comments. The thermostat tells the pump to kick on. Not everyone wants the pump to go 24/7. The chickens should go through the water and if it's coming from rain water, it won't be stagnant all the time. The water in the rain barrel is cleaner than most water you will find chickens drinking from. Anyone who has chickens will tell you, they will drink from a mud puddle.
Assuming the pump lets water through with it's not on, if the pipe with the nipples is angled upward, how does the pipe stay filled when the pump is not on (ie when it's above freezing?
Hi Matt, the system with or without the pump is gravity fed. The pump just circulates the water. Hope that helps.
Why do you need a pump
Do you think this kind of setup would work in a Canadian winter where we will get a few weeks straight of -30C (-22F) and a few -40C/F days?
I don't think it would. We are no where near that cold but at worst -10f We use a base warmer with a four gallon tub, open on top so our rooster can drink too.
Worked for me! Most tank heaters have charts for figuring out what wattage you need for your tank size and climate zone.
Does the snow melt enough water source in the winter time or do you recommend something else?
Since rainfall or snow melt is unpredictable, we always recommend making sure there is enough water in the rain barrel at all times. Especially in the winter, because if there isn't any water in the barrel and the pump kicks on (because of the thermostat) it can burn out the pump. Thanks for your question.
having trouble accessing your website
When the pump is off in warmer months does the water just pass through it into the bar?
Yes. You don't even have to keep it plugged in in the summer, but the thermostatic switch will keep it from running, although some people like to run the pump (just remove the thermostatic switch) once in a while in the summer to keep the water from becoming too stagnant. Thanks for watching.
Can you come to Canada to build a coop?
We do coops in Canada. Just been awhile since Covid. Let us know what you want and we can do it.
6:33 OMYGASH
Would this work without a pump and with a heating strip on the hose instead?
For the water to not freeze inside the waterbar, it needs to circulate, so for that, the pump is necessary.
I would like to get the pump but the link isn't working could you pleas send me a new link to the pump thanks
The pump can be purchased with a link from this page.
carolinacoops.com/shop/products-we-love-replacement-parts/
With the bayite pump listed on your website, will water flow through it freely when the pump is not running?
yes, the system will still work as a gravity fed system when the pump isn't running. The pump is controlled by the thermostatic switch which comes on and off depending on temperature.
Wouldn't pumping the water 24/7 not depending on temp also help with algae in the hot summer temps? Or am I wrong in thinking so? What pump would you recommend for that?
Anyone have an estimate on how many hours in a day is the heater running if its below freezing out?
That depends on where you live. The heater is self regulating, so it will shut off when it's above freezing. If you're in Canada in the winter, that could be never, but if you are in Virginia, it may only be on overnight to mid morning.
Looks awesome! Will this system work with the poultry cups instead of the nipples?? Long time fan of CC!
whats the water temp in tank?
The temperature in the rain barrel will depend on the atmospheric temperature, but with the deicer and pump the water won't freeze, it doesn't heat up, but it doesn't freeze. Hope that helps explain.
Why do you want the pump on the thermostatic control. Wouldn’t you want the heater? Turn the heater on if needed and keep pump circulating the water?
The heater is self regulated, it has a built in thermostat, so it doesn't need a thermostat.
@@columbusmicrofarm Thank you so much for your fast reply
What is the make and model of the pump?
You can see the options for the pump on this page.
carolinacoops.com/shop/products-we-love-replacement-parts/
We have a big problem. Went outside to check on the chickens this morning and the hose that goes into the pipe with the nipples was leaking a lot. We shut off the water from the bottom of the barrel and it stopped but we can't figure out what happened. I know it was cold last night but we had everything plugged in and the water in the barrel is not frozen so we aren't sure what to do
Sorry you are having issues Donna. Please make sure everything is tightened and the gasket is ok. If you still have issues with our poultry water system, please give the office a call at 919-794-3989.
Where can we buy this system?
We sell it on our website. Check it out here:
carolinacoops.com/product/heated-watering-system/
Does system really need heater if water is flowing???
Long Island NY
The heater is to keep the water in the barrel from freezing since it's 55 gallons. It can get cold enough to freeze water in the rain barrel on LI.
How many GPM is that pump?
Rob Rose 2.1gpm
Does the barrel have to be wood or can it be plastic
Food safe plastic is what he said..
Does this flow water to the chicken nipples if the pump isn’t on? Or does the pump not allow water thru unless it’s running
Yes, it works as a gravity fed system, the pump just circulates the water which will prevent it from freezing and keep the water bar water from getting too warm in the summer.
What type of water pump is that and where can I get one?
This page has many of the parts for our heated water system.
carolinacoops.com/shop/heated-poultry-waterer-replacement-parts/
Thank you very much. In upstate NY near the Canadian border we deal with the same temps so I'm definitely building one of these. And of course no one likes carrying water everyday lol
I'm confused. So, is there supposed to be something running all the time? Can you hear the pump running? So far we have not had cold enough weather to have the Heatit kick in. But I'm just not understanding the pump. I assumed it had to be on all the time to circulate the water. Am I mistaken?
HI Donna, the pump is controlled by the heatit, so it will only run when the temperature gets to 38F and then will kick off when it gets to 50F. There is no reason for the pump to run all the time if the temps aren't freezing. You will hear the pump when it's running. Hope that helps.
@@CarolinaCoopsVideos Thank you very much. Found out we had the plugs connected incorrectly and now we understand about the circulation! Thank you so much!
My tank overflowed and wouldn't circulate. The bar froze and busted!!! It survived -20 last week, but after the snow melt right after it filled and froze Tuesday night at only 4 degrees! Second question, with the super cold, when the chickens were drinking, the nipples dripped a little and froze. Any tips or tricks???
Thirdly, after rewatching your video after I built my system, I have my pump funning 24/7. Does it not need to?
Hi Carrie, for this system to work properly, the pump needs to be plugged into a thermostatic switch. The heater in the tank has a built in switch. The switch will tell the pump to turn on before freezing temps and switch off once the temperature is in the 40s. (49 degrees- we believe). So the pump doesn't or won't run continually if it's plugged into the thermostatic switch. So troubleshooting questions would be:
Is there a heater in the tank and is it the appropriate one for the volume and temperatures.
Is the pump plugged into a HeatIT (thermostatic switch). If your pump is running 24/7 then our guess is you don't have it plugged into a thermostatic switch.
Was there power to the system (chickens can sometimes unplug it)
The nipples shouldn't drip much but it depends on the manufacturer. Chicken keeping can be tough in frigid temps for sure. Hope this helps
@@CarolinaCoopsVideos While this answers my question, it gives me a new one. Does the pump not need to run year round? I have my pump plugged into a regular outlet and run it 24/7/365!! My heater is in a heat sensing plug. I've had this set up for 3 years with this year being the first year the barrel is fed by a gutter system. With the tank fuller then where the return hose plugged in, the very top of the tank froze, I believe causing it not to allow the returning water to come in. I have the barrel on a stand, and I believe I had the bar at the same height as you have in your video. How does the bar stay filled if the pump isn't running?
@@carrieleonard1997 The pump doesn't need to run constantly because they can burn out that way. That's why we recommend plugging the pump into the HeatIT- (thermostatic plug) and the heater that goes into the water should not need to be plugged into the HeatIT because it has a built in thermostat, if are using the same products we use and recommend. The water fills the waterbar by gravity. it has two hoses to accommodate circulation.
@@CarolinaCoopsVideos I am going to give it a try! Thank you so much for your responses. You've been so helpful.
@@carrieleonard1997 You're welcome!
We have this system and will be going into our first winter with it. Are there any concerns/issues with the pump running pretty much nonstop all season long? I'm not too far from you guys and as you know, we spend a lot of time below the 50 degree shut off on that HEATIT plug here in upstate/central New York. Thanks
They're bayite pumps which can be found on amazon. Supposedly have a 30k hour lifespan, results likely to vary.
@@feyrband I bought an Inkbird thermostat that has a remote probe and am thinking of either putting the probe in the top level of the water barrel or ideally, if it's possible to do without causing a leak, drilling a hole into the water bar and sealing the probe inside. That way the pump will be triggered by water temperature rather than air temperature. This seems to me to be a more efficient way to run the pump since it is the water temp I'm concerned with more than the air temp.
Flowing water still freezes
Agreed, that's why this set up also has a heater that is in the rain barrel (only used in farm animal troughs)
People always stressing that chickens needs clean water. Why is there not a first flush on that water collection? Birds fly over poop on the roof and rain washer it off into the collection barrel, then people wonder why their chickens sick or die.
that absolutely can happen, however, it's a small target for birds to hit the roof of a chicken coop and for that to be on the side that would go to a gutter that would lead to the rain barrel, but it's possible. Yes, a first flush would be extra reassurance for that. It would add to the cost and installation process. Also, chickens will drink from puddles or any ground water source, so while we do what we can to give them access to fresh, clean drinking water, chickens gonna chicken....and will drink from the ground time and time again. thanks for your comments.
@@CarolinaCoopsVideos Had seen your other videos with the pump in the barrel and was going to do a rain catch on my coop. And thought of it, wasn’t nit picking you. Just after lots of digging on TH-cam there is like 1 guy that did a diy on his coop.
Have you ever made this run completely by a solar power set up?
We haven't. For that to work reliably, you would need a battery and inverter so the pump would work overnight (when freezing temps are most likely), so you would have to ensure the system was reliable. If for some reason it didn't have enough charge to run the pump and the heater, you can risk the waterbar freezing and cracking. So, what we are saying is it can be done, but it needs to be in a way that the electricity coming to the water system is reliable. Thanks for your question.
Thanks!
Did you ever run a set up like this on solar?
A pump and 1000watt heater? I think I will stick with a heated dog bowl for $25
That's good too. We like our waterbar because it keeps the water clean and the chickens busy.
"Food Safe" is NOT Food GRADE. Food Safe means you can put food in it temporarily like when you need to transport it from its original unmanageable container into your kitchen. Food Safe means that toxic gasses are so slight and slow that you can use it temporarily but you cannot STORE (or KEEP, like water) the food/water in it because eventually, the food/water will get a LOT of toxic stuff. Look for Food GRADE.
Hi. Why do you want the pump on the thermostatic control? Shouldn’t it be the heater and the pump always be on?
You should watch this video that you commented on which gives the answer you’re asking for.
- I'll just unscrew it anyway
- Geez
This is too much to manage. KISS principle is needed.
We'll be releasing more content on the heated chicken waterer soon, thank you for your feedback.
I think your heater element should be plugged into the thermostatic plug and the pump on at all times. I viewed this video briefly and I think you have it the opposite.
The heating element is self regulating and the pump is not. That is why the pump is plugged into the thermostatic switch and the heater is not.
This is the most expensive, least efficient system I have ever seen. My furnace uses less than half that many watts. A 100 watt heat lamp will warm your chickens and keep water from freezing. A 65 watt heater with a five gallon waterer will supply 30 chickens for 2 to 3 days and work till negative 40. If you plan to run a pump full time why not just put your water supply indoors and not worry about the heater. It's cheaper to run a pex line than electricity.
I prefer to be managing their food and water on a month to month basis, so something like this works good for me.
I found a cheaper heater on Amazon though.
Also, their system could be made cheaper than they sell it for. But like most people online, their a for profit organization. If you want to make it yourself go ahead, if not then don’t, maybe even buy theirs. At least you can know it’ll work, most likely.
In the video he says the 100 watt heater is thermo regulated, so it only turns on when it needs to, and the pump is plugged into a thermo switch and only runs when it’s cold. This looks like a great system.
@@failingdisciple938 It wouldn't work for my chickens, in my environment without huge costs. It would be much more efficient if the water was buried or indoors. I stand by my previous statement having farmed chickens and worked for chicken farms for over twenty five years. The other problems I have seen many times with systems like this is mold from the heaters, clogged pumps, clogged filters, cracked water barrels, leaking connections, frozen pipes, and over confidence in a system leading to animal death when it goes down periodically. You mentioned it only running when it's cold but in my area it's below freezing for at least 60 days and 160 nights during the winter. To me this looks like a system that would work in the south or maybe Kansas or Nebraska, but up here in Idaho, Utah, Wyoming, Colorado, Montana, I wouldn't waste my money! It's not personal, just practical.
@@matthewbattie1022 ok