Great video, great information for Phoenix 9b growers. Nothing like a great Cara Cara! Mine has been in the ground for 3 years now and the fruit is very good, but not at the premium level yet. I think it needs at least a couple more years of maturity. A local citrus expert told me that a Washington Navel takes 5 years to get good fruit, and 15 years to get the premium fruit. Hopefully a Cara Cara won't take quite that long, but it might. Thankfully, I can say with confidence that Mandarins do not take as long as Navels to mature!!
Thanks and good to know about the age. If I were on the East side of town, I would definitely have gone to Greenfield for more size options but went the convenient route on this purchase. You have quite the collection of citrus trees! Looking forward to that unique pink flesh and flavor once this little guy grows a bit.
@@EnlightenmentGarden While I'm waiting for some of my varieties to mature, I still buy great citrus in-season from the local orchards in Mesa. I know that doesn't help you out where you are, but if you are ever in the east valley during citrus season, Orange Patch on Gilbert Road has pretty awesome, Navels, Cara Caras, Minneolas, and various Mandarins.
Thank you so much for these videos! I’m leaning so much from you. I thought I was going to have to give up on my dream to have an exotic fruit orchard in my SFV zone but now Iv got lots of inspiration. Thank you.
This is so helpful ❤, unfortunately I haven’t found this during my search when I planted most of my trees in spring 😢 I still have couple of more trees which I need to do and follow this technique
Absolutely--Gary is the soil guru! Fortunately, my soil has both of these already with 7 years of growing a garden and establishing soil life with mulch. If I was starting on a new lot, I would definitely innoculate it and add some worm castings. For container plantings, I always add some mycorrhizae since the media is completely inorganic.
Hi thx 4 for ur planting way of instructions. Appreciate knowledge. May i ask why not use any other planting soils to your mix? Do you only use sand and pumice mix in with your clay soil? I live in vegas n i have notice working around my yard underneath is caliche n its tough to take out. I have watched your vids in the past with other arizona growers and i truly appreciate knowledge - thx 4 your help bcuz its always appreciated 😊🌎😊
You are welcome! For many years I used to take out half the native soil and replace it with cactus soil but stopped doing that after I learned more about the decomposition process with bagged soils after watching Gary Matsuoka of Laguna Hills describe how detrimental it is to plants over the long term. I now avoid putting anything in the planting hole that will break down. I too had a very hard time digging in my yard initially. 6" of wood chips on top of the area you want to dig with regular irrigation makes this process much easier over time.
Very good video. I have some questions for you. Where did you get the Pumice? It seems to be only for sale online. I just bought a peach in Lowes, Floridaprince, when do you recommend planting it? Now a problem I have is that the water comes out very hot in the irrigation system in the afternoon, don't you have that problem? Thank you for your valuable information and experience on the subject of gardening.
Thanks! Summerwinds (in Glendale) carries pumice. You can use perlite instead but I prefer pumice. A tree from the big box stores likely is not acclimated to our weather and will burn up so I'd wait until Fall unless you plan to provide some shade protection. My emitters are mostly those with a spray pattern versus a dripper so the heat dissipates from the small droplets pushed into the air. You can avoid hot water by watering before sun up or in the evening if using drip emitters
With sandy soil, drainage is no issue so a mound would not be needed for that purpose. If you get lots of rain / flooding, a mound can be helpful to prevent root rot. Planting on mounds are very common in Florida despite sandy soil to help keep the plants from sitting in water
@@RockMeLinda You are welcome. While a mound is not needed, I would still plant your lemon tree slightly above grade like by 2-3" only because trees have the tendency to settle after planting and if you plant it just at grade, it likely will sink below grade in a few years as it settles which could lead to issues like crown rot. Happy planting--perfect weather for it!
@ oh thank you I will do that. I’ll also follow your new watering schedule. Im really nervous, we tried to garden last year and everything died. We’ll see how this goes. Happy gardening, take care!
I have lots of updates and will show everything in the coming fall tour except for low-chill cherries that croaked at the beginning of summer. Mounding plantings and amending native clay with sand is my new consistent way to plant.
@@charlessingletaryiii331 No; it does not harden; I keep it moist in summer irrigating it lightly and daily. I use the Deco-Rock brand all-purpose sand at Lowes in general
Thanks for this video. I have found Richards Garden Center to be good with trees on the correct root stock. What type of spray emitter were you using? I would like to try those out.
You are welcome. Very true; Richards and other nurseries around Phoenix stock trees grown by Sunset Nursery that are grafted onto sour orange. Here are the emitters: www.amazon.com/MIXC-Emitters-Adjustable-Irrigation-Watering/dp/B082VCZ313/
How do u manage that drip timing for young vs grown or midsize unless u have 3-4 different mainlines where we can run one of them 4 times or 5 times a day
The duration is the same for young and old as they are all on the same mainline; however, my emitters are fully adjustable on flow rate so I can drop a lower volume on the younger plants by adjusting down the emitter and also by having one (on a young plant) versus multiple (on an older plant) emitters. The emitters I use are fully adjustable from closed to 20+ gph.
Most people like to plant citrus in the fall when the temperatures cool down and it is pleasant but I find the summer to be a great time to plant almost everything because that's when plants can push a lot of growth.
It's a sign of bacterial leaf spot or shot hole. It's very common on peaches and nectarines. Treat in the fall with a copper fungicide when the leaves drop and prevent in Spring by spraying just before the buds open. You can also spray now but that will only prevent it from spreading further and won't undo the damage on the leaves you see the red blotches.
Will it hurt the tree. I sprayed neem oil with insecticidal soap and water. Will my fruit be OK next year? I did have fruit but it dried up and fell off.
@@putinhynes3848 If left untreated, the bacteria can spread and cause complete defoliation of the tree and will affect the fruit next year. Neem and insecticidal soap don't treat bacterial leaf spot as far as I know. Copper fungicide is the way to go. I spray my peach trees every year now in spring with a copper fungicide as I lost my first peach tree to this disease by ignoring the issue year after year
Great video, great information for Phoenix 9b growers. Nothing like a great Cara Cara! Mine has been in the ground for 3 years now and the fruit is very good, but not at the premium level yet. I think it needs at least a couple more years of maturity. A local citrus expert told me that a Washington Navel takes 5 years to get good fruit, and 15 years to get the premium fruit. Hopefully a Cara Cara won't take quite that long, but it might. Thankfully, I can say with confidence that Mandarins do not take as long as Navels to mature!!
Thanks and good to know about the age. If I were on the East side of town, I would definitely have gone to Greenfield for more size options but went the convenient route on this purchase. You have quite the collection of citrus trees! Looking forward to that unique pink flesh and flavor once this little guy grows a bit.
@@EnlightenmentGarden While I'm waiting for some of my varieties to mature, I still buy great citrus in-season from the local orchards in Mesa. I know that doesn't help you out where you are, but if you are ever in the east valley during citrus season, Orange Patch on Gilbert Road has pretty awesome, Navels, Cara Caras, Minneolas, and various Mandarins.
Thank you so much for these videos! I’m leaning so much from you. I thought I was going to have to give up on my dream to have an exotic fruit orchard in my SFV zone but now Iv got lots of inspiration. Thank you.
You are very welcome! That is so great to hear. Happy growing!
This is so helpful ❤, unfortunately I haven’t found this during my search when I planted most of my trees in spring 😢
I still have couple of more trees which I need to do and follow this technique
You are welcome! It will be a great test to see what works best for your garden
Thank you, great video. Very informative
Hi Natasha…
Nice to see you supporting the logic of Gary M on soil construction and watering. Do you add any mycorrhiza or worm castings?
Absolutely--Gary is the soil guru! Fortunately, my soil has both of these already with 7 years of growing a garden and establishing soil life with mulch. If I was starting on a new lot, I would definitely innoculate it and add some worm castings. For container plantings, I always add some mycorrhizae since the media is completely inorganic.
Hi thx 4 for ur planting way of instructions. Appreciate knowledge. May i ask why not use any other planting soils to your mix? Do you only use sand and pumice mix in with your clay soil?
I live in vegas n i have notice working around my yard underneath is caliche n its tough to take out.
I have watched your vids in the past with other arizona growers and i truly appreciate knowledge - thx 4 your help bcuz its always appreciated
😊🌎😊
You are welcome! For many years I used to take out half the native soil and replace it with cactus soil but stopped doing that after I learned more about the decomposition process with bagged soils after watching Gary Matsuoka of Laguna Hills describe how detrimental it is to plants over the long term. I now avoid putting anything in the planting hole that will break down. I too had a very hard time digging in my yard initially. 6" of wood chips on top of the area you want to dig with regular irrigation makes this process much easier over time.
Very good video. I have some questions for you. Where did you get the Pumice? It seems to be only for sale online. I just bought a peach in Lowes, Floridaprince, when do you recommend planting it? Now a problem I have is that the water comes out very hot in the irrigation system in the afternoon, don't you have that problem? Thank you for your valuable information and experience on the subject of gardening.
Thanks! Summerwinds (in Glendale) carries pumice. You can use perlite instead but I prefer pumice. A tree from the big box stores likely is not acclimated to our weather and will burn up so I'd wait until Fall unless you plan to provide some shade protection. My emitters are mostly those with a spray pattern versus a dripper so the heat dissipates from the small droplets pushed into the air. You can avoid hot water by watering before sun up or in the evening if using drip emitters
Hi there, would you recommend the mound style of planting for more sandy soil as well?
With sandy soil, drainage is no issue so a mound would not be needed for that purpose. If you get lots of rain / flooding, a mound can be helpful to prevent root rot. Planting on mounds are very common in Florida despite sandy soil to help keep the plants from sitting in water
@ I’m west of Phoenix and just picked up a lemon tree. Hopi g to get it planted this weekend. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it’s really helpful!
@@RockMeLinda You are welcome. While a mound is not needed, I would still plant your lemon tree slightly above grade like by 2-3" only because trees have the tendency to settle after planting and if you plant it just at grade, it likely will sink below grade in a few years as it settles which could lead to issues like crown rot. Happy planting--perfect weather for it!
@ oh thank you I will do that. I’ll also follow your new watering schedule. Im really nervous, we tried to garden last year and everything died. We’ll see how this goes. Happy gardening, take care!
Any updates on how the tree took to your new planting method?
I have lots of updates and will show everything in the coming fall tour except for low-chill cherries that croaked at the beginning of summer. Mounding plantings and amending native clay with sand is my new consistent way to plant.
@EnlightenmentGarden have you had issues with the sand and clay hardening. If not what type of sand do you use
@@charlessingletaryiii331 No; it does not harden; I keep it moist in summer irrigating it lightly and daily. I use the Deco-Rock brand all-purpose sand at Lowes in general
Thanks for this video. I have found Richards Garden Center to be good with trees on the correct root stock. What type of spray emitter were you using? I would like to try those out.
You are welcome. Very true; Richards and other nurseries around Phoenix stock trees grown by Sunset Nursery that are grafted onto sour orange. Here are the emitters: www.amazon.com/MIXC-Emitters-Adjustable-Irrigation-Watering/dp/B082VCZ313/
How do u manage that drip timing for young vs grown or midsize unless u have 3-4 different mainlines where we can run one of them 4 times or 5 times a day
The duration is the same for young and old as they are all on the same mainline; however, my emitters are fully adjustable on flow rate so I can drop a lower volume on the younger plants by adjusting down the emitter and also by having one (on a young plant) versus multiple (on an older plant) emitters. The emitters I use are fully adjustable from closed to 20+ gph.
Very nice! Is there an optimum time to plant citrus in your zone?
Most people like to plant citrus in the fall when the temperatures cool down and it is pleasant but I find the summer to be a great time to plant almost everything because that's when plants can push a lot of growth.
Why is my nectarine tree leaves full of red spots on the leaves. It's been in a pot for a little over a year.
It's a sign of bacterial leaf spot or shot hole. It's very common on peaches and nectarines. Treat in the fall with a copper fungicide when the leaves drop and prevent in Spring by spraying just before the buds open. You can also spray now but that will only prevent it from spreading further and won't undo the damage on the leaves you see the red blotches.
Will it hurt the tree. I sprayed neem oil with insecticidal soap and water.
Will my fruit be OK next year? I did have fruit but it dried up and fell off.
@@putinhynes3848 If left untreated, the bacteria can spread and cause complete defoliation of the tree and will affect the fruit next year. Neem and insecticidal soap don't treat bacterial leaf spot as far as I know. Copper fungicide is the way to go. I spray my peach trees every year now in spring with a copper fungicide as I lost my first peach tree to this disease by ignoring the issue year after year