Surprising how many seem to take issue with the expression "wake up dead." I've heard that all my life as a tongue-in-cheek warning. Great video, thanks.
In Colorado winter, down comforters, three heat sources, propane furnace rarely comes on because I have a oil radiator heater in bedroom area, space heater going on three years with that little heater and rv stays at 72 degrees and I do have a Polar Package RV. I covered windows with corrugated aluminum rolled insulation and have skylights so get light and one window I uncover during day. Oh I also covered the metal door with Aluminum insulation and put a long insulated curtain on door, so when coming in and out the heat does not just rush out the door.As I write this its 17 degrees outside. Thanks for your video.
Thanks for sharing about the oil radiator. I’ve been thinking about getting one as it seems like the safest option for space heaters. I have a 25’ class C. Do you think one would be enough?
I love how objective and detailed your videos are. I'm not an RVer yet, but really enjoy learning about it as I think about trying it out. Great job guys!
I Think RV Wood stoves should be discussed. There are many people converting their large RV's to marine type galley stoves that have very small fire boxes and are super safe.
I absolutely love wood stoves but when I looked into one for my RV is just wasn't a good idea. It would be fun but far from practical. Fuel cost and storage, safety for so many reasons, hassles with safety devices (CO2, fire detectors ), maintaining heat, cost of CORRECTLY installing, loss of interior space, weight, and don't forget the cost of the stove itself. If you have free access to wood and your RV is more of a permanent cabin it becomes a lot more practical.
@@mcombsemail Wood stove heat requires no expense other than the initial set up and the use of good old common sense. The idea being it gives emergency as well as everyday heat and no or little expense while eliminating dependency on other heating fuels that are often difficult to find or afford. As you travel around you'll find a huge supply of small wood scraps for free. Everywhere i've traveled i've found pallets, tree limbs and even unwanted firewood. I Have a small construction type miter saw box that cuts firewood perfectly to the required tiny size. All it takes is dedicating one storage compartment in your Rv for your wood supply. Safe installation and operation comes down to common sense used just like heating your house, but on a more attentive level. Just make sure you have a fresh air supply for the stove and for you and a fire suppression system and back up. I Added a extra long spray hose on my sink so if i have an emergency i can put the little fire out quickly.
@@RetreatfarmFarmvilleVirginia Please be specific about the make and model of wood stove and how it was installed. I'm also curious about the size of your dedicated fuel storage and how long that supply would last during the winter. My current temp is 29 degrees. Low 40's during the day, mid 20's at night.
I would suggest seeing what might be available with pellet burning frunaces. Don't know is an RV unit is made but the have them for home heating systems. Also small fire places are an option you might look at. Perhaps rigged with a continous pellet feeder. Cheers
@@mcombsemail I Bought a GRIZZLY Cubic Mini Wood Stove for my '90 Winnebago Chieftain and took out the one single lounge chair next to the side door and built a aluminum corner hearth that covered the bottom half of the right window and used that window as a fresh air supply to the stove, then i fire/heat proofed the two corner walls with two layers of fire rated sheet rock and a layer of fire brick veneer and mortar. Then i installed a triple wall 3 inch flue pipe up thru the overhead cabinet and then the edge of the roof right where the roof ends at the flat area, then sealed it to the roof inside and out and then lined the stove and pipe up plumb then bolted it to the hearth. I Also made a small smoke deflector for the leading edge of the pipe cap so if the stove is in operation and i need to move the RV i can without worrying about smoke backing down the chimney from the wind draft. The stove sets a little over 2 foot from any soft fabric or wood combustibles and have one extra layer of fire proof sheet rock as a extra heat protection layer.
Tried a Mr. Heater in an effort to resolve excessive battery use while dry camping, but was not impressed with the odor (aka fumes) that are inescapable. Ended up trying a vented propane heater, but not the expensive variety now on the market. You may recall that small RVs of the 1970s used them under brand names of Duo-Therm and Hydro-Flame. These were termed "gravity furnaces" in some quarters due to their self venting co-axial ducts to the exterior. They had a built-in pilot light and adjustable thermostat with 10 to 15 thousand BTU output while designed to mount in existing cabinet work. Some had a wall thermostat and/or small 12v fan as accessories, but they worked fine without. A small USB powered fan will circulate heat evenly if desired. They can be found in wrecked RVs of that vintage for little cost, and are an ideal solution for this purpose. I use two of them to zone heat my 35ft class A motor home using very little propane and no 12v electricity.
LP spiked in winter last year and never really went down so I bought two Pelonis oil radiators on sale. Using a mix of both I've had one of the most comfortable winters to date.
+dstubby82 Oil radiators are great! No fans, no ignition point to worry about with close by flammables, and they are completely silent! They really are in a class of their own.
Thats my preference too.. I had a few fan driven space heaters and the ones I bought died quick. The oil filled seem to be more reliable and produce a lot of heat though you may need a fan to help direct air to where you need it. I have to move mine around kinda between the bedroom area and the couch.
Keven W The Honda eu2000 puts out a continuous 1600watts, so look for an electric heater that has a 1000watt setting and then you can also power other 110volt appliances.
We lived in our camper for two years in the mountains of WV (above the 3000' line) while we built our house. I decommissioned and removed the propane furnace from the camper because of the dangers of CO poisoning, having heard of the 12+ deaths that year from people using built-in units in their RVs. Instead, we opted for good insulation, consisting first of straw bales placed around the camper to insulate the underneath from cold and wind, then foam insulation for the exposed waterlines in the non-living spaces of the camper, being sure to leave the sides facing the interior clear. During cold weather (our weather station recorded temperatures of -9 F) we left cabinet doors open to allow heat from the main living spaces to radiate out to the plumbing and services (grey/black water). we used standard plug-in 115v forced-air space heaters (2) to keep us warm and kept the cold water supply running on a drip to keep the main water line from freezing. Of course, the grey and black water tanks froze during these periods, but a dose of RV antifreeze after a few days in each kept the system flowing in general and removed ice buildup in the drain lines, which is really the only concern for the RVer. Bottom line: Cold weather is not an issue, if you take reasonable steps..............................
RVgeeks I'm not going to say it was easy, but we did what we had to do to get by. Had I known then what I know now it would have been a piece of cake. Some of the stuff was a no-brainer in retrospect, but I had no clue how cold invades a closed space and forms pockets and zones of freezing conditions within a box that is your living space. One of the basic things one can do is have anything that moves air throughout the camper. Simply mixing the air will eliminate cold-spots and help keep your plumbing and services frost-free. Even if you don't have strong heaters, you'd be amazed at how effective moving air is toward keeping water lines clear. The other point I'd make is that humidity and moister will build up, regardless of measures against it. You will get thick ice coating the lower portions (including the drain port) of your windows and will occasionally need to use a hair-dryer to de-ice windows and even door-jambs in snowy-humid conditions. A window squeegee is a welcome addition to your winter kit for conditions like these. Like anything, experience is your best teacher, but I hope I've helped mitigate the challenges for anyone newly embarking on the life. Safe travels and happy camping to all......
Hello fellow Mountaineer. Live in Bluefield here where -10° hits at least once a winter. I love camping @ Camp Creek State park nearby and hunting in winter. Especially atop Flat Top mountain. The challenge at 67 yo is refreshing. I'm here as I write. Last day of Mountaineer Heritage Season in today.
I use the furnace on high for a good hour then use electric heaters until i feel it get cooler i switch back and forth few times a night and i always open the vents
Re AquaHot hydronic. They're loud, and they have limited capability if you're running off the electric hot water. I've got a 2017 Phaeton 40' with AquaHot, heated floors, electric fireplace, and 3 AC/heat-pump units. I'm way down south at the moment (New Mexico) and it has been in the mid to high 20's at night. The Aquahot pump is quite loud and it cycles frequently, enough that it often wakes me up at night. The air circulation fans also cycle. They're not horrifically loud but definitely louder than forced air in a stick and brick home. I try hard not to use the AquaHot with diesel heat when I'm in an RV park because the burner and pump are plenty loud enough to hear outside. Using the diesel burner for the hot water, the coach stays consistently warm and toasty. Works as advertised, plus unlimited hot water. I've taken 15 minute very hot showers, works great. Using the electric hot water, it runs out of hot water long before it even gets the coach warm, let alone up to temperature (thermostat at 63F). The air circulation fans run briefly but the air quickly becomes lukewarm and so it shuts off until it heats the water up enough to run again...lather rinse repeat. Not a viable option below about 35F. Another pro for AquaHot, the engine preheat also works the other way around. You can turn off both diesel and electric hot water while you're driving and still have scalding hot water when you stop because it scavenges engine heat for the hot water. The heated floors combined with electric fireplace do a brilliant job of keeping the interior nice and evenly warm...with the caveat that they consume electricity like governments consume money. The floors don't have thermostats, they just have settings 1 to 5. I usually don't use the rear, I prefer it cool in the bedroom, but I usually set the front on 2, or if it's going to be really cold out, 3. I stayed a week at a park that metered the electric. It's the first time I've stayed like that so I used only the electric heat and hot water to see how much power they consume. Lowest overnight temp was 26F, highest daytime was 64F. I intentionally kept it warm, and I was less than vigilant, 3 or 4 times I forgot to turn off the floors in the morning until interior temps hit 67F to 73F. In 7 days I managed to burn through 326kWh of electricity! $59/week at $0.18/kWh. That also includes running 3 computers and UPS for them 24x7, jetpack, dash cams and half a dozen other electronic devices. That's also with a 1,600W solar array contributing 100-300Wh each day (it only charges the batteries so it doesn't offset loads that aren't on the inverter) I've only used the heat pumps once, just to make sure they worked. The problem with them is that if you use them at night, you've got to be certain that temps won't go below 40F before morning, otherwise you're going to have to get up and switch heat sources. They seem like they're only a solution for cool summer nights...and then I'd much rather have warm floors under my feet anyway. Thanks for another great video! How about doing one on tricks/tips for planning and driving when your destination is a place you haven't stayed before? How do you find 'em, how do you evaluate them, how do you plan your route? I use allstays, rvparkreviews, and overnightrvparking, and I try to use mapquest or google maps and satellite imagery and such but I sometimes miss turns anyway. I've been lucky so far only had to drop the towed unit once so that I could get turned around. I'm guessing it's mostly because I'm a noob and partly because I'm solo and can't view or adjust routes without pulling over, which isn't always an option.
One thing you might want to mention is plumbing located outside the RV interior is typically kept warm with the RV heater through a series of heated chases. (At least that is the case with my travel trailer). A portable propane heater is great for the interior but will not keep this plumbing from freezing in very cold conditions. I know someone who tried to return his RV because his plumbing froze. The first question the dealer asked was "did you use a portable heater"? Thanks for the well presented information!
We used an Olympian catalytic space heater in our 31ft Class A. We plumbed it into the existing Propane lines with a quick disconnect. It worked great. New just took delivery on a Leisure Travel Vans Unity FX. will plumb the Unity to be able to utilize the Olympian as well. We also carry an electric space heater for when we are on shore power. Love your videos.
So I have never heard of anyone else doing this, but I installed a 500w 110v baseboard heater in the center of my fifth wheel passthrough storage area up against the rear wall. Because it radiates rising heat, it keeps my bedroom and bathroom toasty, uses 1/3 of what most space heaters use, and runs on a thermosat I also installed. I wired directly to its own breaker. Only thing i am careful of is ensuring I have a good 6" of clearance in front of it. Just thought I would share.
My issue right now is cooling .... but in our 1999 Foretravel U320 we have a Aqua hot system that provides hydronic heating and hot water. One of the reasons I went with the U320 model. The main drawback is maintenance. But as long as you keep up with the yearly maintenance schedule, your good to go. It has 3 heat modes, engine waste heat, 120 volt, and diesel. Pretty sweet system. Our coach is propane free and I like that. Even though you haven't used one, you hit the points on the head. Great video as usual. Thanks.
Great vid and timely. I've been a long time RVer, part time only. I recently bought a toy hauler, it's a fixer as I got a steal on the rig and do all my own work. I tested the furnace, it worked when I bought it. We ended up camping in the desert as we do this time of year. The evenings are in the high 40's low 50's at night. We needed the furnace and it wouldn't fire, fan came on went off after 15 seconds, I knew it was going to be a job fixing it and didn't want to deal with it then. We piled on the blankets and in the mornings I would fire the generator up and use our space heater. I also had a catalytic Coleman one burner, we got by. Glad you mention the propane heater, I didn't know much about them, now I know what we need to carry as an extra source.
Uggh, Timmy... nothing worse than having the furnace crap out on you when you need it most! From what you're describing, it sounds like it could be any one of the following problems: (1) the sail switch... it's a safety device that get's triggered when the blower comes on to let the furnace know that the air is moving so it's safe to fire up the burner. If the sail switch goes, the furnace won't fire up because it could overheat. (2) propane supply... could be low propane pressure (how full is your tank?) or an issue with the regulator. Do other propane appliances work as expected? (3) the thermocouple... if that goes, the circuitry doesn't think that the burner has lit, so it shuts down the furnace to keep there from being a fire hazard from non-ignited propane. Hope you find the source of the trouble and get it fixed. But, if not, a heater like the Kozy World we have (or a Mr. Heater Big Buddy or an Olympian Wave Catalytic heater) is a good insurance policy against freezing overnight! ;)
Well I pulled the furnace out today to check it out, ( not easy ), I had read about the tests to do, turns out it was the sail switch, The rig had been sitting for a long time, the switch was sticky, so I removed it clean it and it flops like it's supposed to. I notice on some switches they sell there is a tiny piece of metal on the end to catch more air, about he size of half a dime. I don't know if mine fell off or if it never had one. Being it's such a bear to get out, I am going to glue a tiny square of tin foil on and test it again before reinstalling. Thanks for the tips and tricks, will be ordering a heater as back up, off to Quartzsite next week, warm nights predicted, high 40's low 50's.
I use Big Buddy and it works very well. I have 2 extra CO-2 detectors and besides is CO-2 gets high the heater will and I mean WILL turn itself off. Happy cold camping.
We've heard great things about the buddy heaters, too! Good to hear it works well for you. And we're not generally "cold campers" (we actually hate winter)! We snowbird most of the time. :)
I found the propane heaters to be two factors. First, they didn't have an auto on/off temp setting that could help keep the RV near a set temp. Secondly, they have NO thermal mass to keep the heat radiating for hours after it is shut off. One more thing I didn't hear was the price to install electric heat in AC units which typically runs $450 (per AC unit) and while you don't have to store them the cost does not justify installing them for two reasons. The electrical consumption is not adjustable like on the $45 Lasko ceramic egg heater (750 / 1500 watt) which you can heat just one area or use multiple to heat separate zones while still saving thousands of dollars (if you cannot install the AC heat yourself). Likewise having a space heater allows you to connect to a 110 extension cord if 30/50 amp is not available. Very good video. Thanks again for sharing.
Since I live on a permanent spot, I have a small woodstove that I use all the time. I also have a Mr. Heater, convection heater, an oil radiator heater. I installed a small electric water heater inside so that I don't have to worry about the propane one freezing and bursting (that happened) And I keep an electric blanket on the bed and one on the couch. Staying warm is very important to me!
Sandra Hendricks I just gutted my RV and plan remodel to live in it while I land hunt. What kind of wood stove do you use and in what size space? I am not a fan of even Texas cold! Been starting to shop for heaters and wood stove appeals to me more than anything. Aaand I just scrapped my stove
I thought that the whole purpose of living in an RV is to always be chasing 64.9°. With that, why is this subject even worth mentioning? Get a road map and tepid beverage.
Greetings: Love your channel! We have a hydronic system, in our 2002 Beaver Monterey, and YES once it is down for repairs you in big trouble during freezing temps. Having issues now that need addressed and looking at other options for heat; which is why I went to your site first. A plus is that the hydronic system does have an electric element to assist in heating when the diesel fails. It isn't meant for such issues but does help keep things from becoming ice-sculptors. It looks like we will be doing electric heaters as I fix our hydronic system. Almost purchased a roof heat pump until your video on how it stops working below 40 deg-F. Here in Colorado 40 deg-F can be a heat wave (LoL). Again thank you for the video, and we wish you both safe travels.
Thanks Charles! We have indeed heard about older hydronic systems being more trouble-prone than the newer ones today. We're going to be spending this winter in a cold climate (not as bad as in Colorado though!) but mostly on a 30-amp hook-up. We don't want to have to move the RV to go get propane, and delivery isn't readily accessible here, so we've mad a modification to our rig to allow us to heat entirely on electric, even with only 30-amp service. We have a 2-part video coming out next month all about our secret mod. Stay tuned! ;-)
Great video !!! We use a Mr. Buddy ceramic type heater (portable) which can use the 1lb tanks or operate directly from the onboard propane system.... we do use a filter in the supplyline when connected to a 20lb or larger tank
My Heater Portable Big Buddy Radiant heater/Propane that you can use 1lb canisters or hook up to a larger tank. Has tip over protection, and an oxygen sensor to help protect you from carbon monoxide poisoning.
Our coach has 4 ways. A diesel furnace with hydronic zones. , a heat pump, electric heat and propane heat. One thing we like is an old fashion electric blanket.
I think that the name of hydronic heat is amusing. Sounds complicated and hitech. Except that it been around for a long time in houses. Boilers burning fuel oil that heats a coil with water circulating through it that sends it out to the heating pipes/baseboards. The pipes using fins transfer the heat to the air keeping you toasty warm san fans. They use the passive method of heating that saves electricity. Airstream does the same with their classic models as far as I know.
Didn't know heat pumps don't work under 40 degrees! I like having multiple sources, but not really needed in socal where I do 95% of my rving in winter. Another great video, well researched!
I have a class B RV Campervan so I don't need much heat but a tiny little 1500 watt heats it up real nice. But my furnace does very well also. There are always pros and cons while traveling to dif areas offering dif temps. But I guess I just have it a bit easier in a small class B. I have not made a video on heating.. but sounds like a good idea! THANKS GREAT VIDEO!
Great video. we wintered in Our Class A Discovery (40 ft) . Our basement heat came from the propane. We augmented our heat at night with two ceramic heaters and left the house heat on 55 for the basement heating. we had no problems with freezing inside, and our 100 lb propane tank lasted the entire season. (Memphis, TN and we had temps in the 20's off and on from Nov. to Late Feb. Love the ceramics, but would consider the Hydronic system in the future.
Thanks Bob! Sounds like the weather you had was similar to what we experienced during the winter in the Lower Mainland of British Columbia. We'd also want hydronic heat in any future RV. We're actually spending this winter in a cold climate again.... but on a 30-amp site. We want to run completely off electric for the winter (propane is hard to get where we'll be), and we're making a modification to our RV to make it a lot easier. We've got a 2-part video all about our secret plan coming up in December. Stay tuned! ;-)
There are marine wood stoves that burn wood or pellets depending upon the model. If installed and operated properly they're just as safe in an RV as they are on a boat. You put a convection fan on top of it like they use on the full size wood cook stoves to circulate the air without the need for any electricity at all.
Great information, pros and cons. On the portable propane heaters, deemed safe by so many......Folks do not turn up to high heat, at the same time close up your RV tight. They produce a flame= carbon monoxide....and if safe enough to go to sleep with it on, why the need for detectors ? Too iffy for me to trust. Sleeping bags work great ! Thanks !
We camp in a Hybrid in early spring and late fall. A 120 volt space heater, electric mattresses, and extra blankets, and if needed, supplemented by the furnace, is how we camp. It can get below freezing here in New England during that time.
+RVgeeks I do enjoy the activities that winter brings like snowmobiling and hot tubs on snow filled patios up In the air. But I think I'll be down south this winter. Or will I be at one of them Big 4 parks like you went to down under ? who knows
I have used a cozy world propane heater for 10 years. I have never cracked a window And has never had a problem. I have it plumbed outside to a 7 gallon tank and it works great the only way to heat A trailer.
I bought a Dyna Glo 30,000 BTU vent-less propane heater and installed it about a month ago. I also installed a custom blower motor. I plumbed the heater directly to my main propane line. Fittings and gas line connection hose with shut off valve was expensive but worth it. The unit is controlled by thermostat and it also has a oxygen depletion sensor (ODS) for safety which will turn the unit off if it detects low level of oxygen. I don't get head aches or anything like the Nay Sayers project. It heats up my 35' fifth wheel really fast and a 40lb. tank or 9 gal bottle will last 5 or 6 days depending on the weather. The main draw back is the condensation build up but I use a dehumidifier which cancels out the effect. The main reason I bought it was that I only have one furnace which is located forward of the RV and the living room gets cold. The furnace was working full time and using a hell of a lot of propane. I'm warm and happy now.
I live on property in my rv. I have a small woodstove and I love it! My only problem is the wind blowing the smoke back into the rv, but that does not happen all the time. I need to get a cap for the outside pipe and hopefully that will help.
We know that in very windy areas, like along the Oregon coast, the chimneys on every house have a little device on top that prevent the strong winds from blowing smoke into the house. One of those might be just what you need.
heat pumps are apparently more efficient than space heaters apparently for one kw used a space heater produces 1 kw of heat, but a heatpump can produce 3 to 4 so indeed depends of the moment, and availability what heatsource is most appropriate
Use the electric heater to allow you to lower the furnace temperature. All electric heaters are required to have tip over protection, whether they advertise it as a feature or not
I really like diesel heaters but they do require a decent amount of maintenance to keep them working properly. Know how to maintain and fix one before you buy.
Here in Southern NH we can get a lot of snow.You loose a lot of heat through the roof. Heating an RV and allowing it to cool off can cause water from melting snow to back up, if your roof is not in perfect shape.Also the weight of snow is a consideration and roof will need to be cleared.
yes we run a Alde warm water heating system in the new rigg, it heats thru out, equal, all lines and tanks heated, no fans at all, runs with pump ( solar and Batt) and an Propane or El hook up (3amps) big downside, slow heat up time or response, my previous carado with Propane furnace n fan,,made a rigg warm W/I 15 min...water heating can take hours
We borrowed one of those from a friend once, and it was awesome! If they weren't a little on the large side (for us space-challenged full-timers), we would have bought one. Thanks for adding that into the mix!
You can get oil filled radiators in different sizes; large, medium and really small. Mine's a medium. Add a down-filled quilt to your bed and you'll stay really cozy. Jon
JonTanOsb Thanks Jon! We borrowed one of those oil-filled radiators from friends when we spent a winter on their site, and it was awesome! The only problem for us, as full-timers, is the amount of space they take up in the basement when not being used most of the year (we didn't know they made really small ones, and will have to look into that). We've got the down comforter though (along with flannel sheets, fleece blanket an electric mattress pad! :-D
Hate to break it to you: if you die you will not wake up.LOL!! Not a fan of un-vented propane. I need major heat, that does not use electric, so I went w/ a Williams VENTED propane house heater. I found an RV repair guy that used to do home heating and so he did the modifications for RV. Happy with it, except for one issue the heater in the main room sends all the heat up up up and so the ceiling bakes, along w/ the 5th wheel bedroom-have to leave the bath door open to block the hall, but then the bath gets the heat too. Up side is: do not need to run the other furnace to get the bedroom warm. I am very allergic to cold, so the large unit is good, for most they may want to go w/ a lower BTU or not. RVs are not known for good insulation.LOL I looked into the Dickenson marine heater also, but it had a very poor BTU punch.
If your OEM roof top A/C breaks down, just replace it with a window unit. My 31' TT came with one 15K A/C unit. I RV in the desert SW. To add a second A/C unit would have cost me close to $1800. I went with two window (15K) units for $170 each from Lowes. With extra wiring, breakers, and plugs, my out of pocket was $400. We don't use our OEM roof top unit hardly at all anymore. .
Great video, thanks. If you get a chance, I would like your thoughts on the "Cheap Heat" system if you are familiar with it. Thanks again, enjoy your videos, they are very informative and helpful.
Hi Jeff. We've heard of, and casually looked over, the "Cheap Heat" system before... and it looks like a really interesting option. But since our air conditioners are also heat pumps, we haven't had as much impetus to look further into the "Cheap Heat" unit for our own coach. We're also not sure we'd have the room to install it inline with our existing Suburban propane furnace, since we narrowed that area down when our residential fridge was installed. We had also figured that since our RV only has the one furnace, we'd need the more powerful "Cheap Heat" units that require 50-amp service to operate. But with their new "Two Stage Kit", that allows the unit to operate at lower power draw when hooked to 30-amp service, it might be more compelling!
I like all hose ideas, more about the electric space heater, but im gonna try an oil heater this year. I remember using one in a small room once and we had to turn it down cuz it would get the room too warm.
Another great video, might want ad a short discussion on the cop of your rooftop air conditioners/ heat pumps as an advantage. Typical rooftop unit will have a COP of three ish with some of the best units at 4
Thanks Richard! Great point. One factor is that daily and weekly stays virtually always include electricity. So it's a no-brainer for us that a 45- or 50-night during a short stay will always get warmed up using heat pumps, since propane is NEVER free! Of course when it drops below about 40F, heat pumps are no longer an option.
Excellent! We have a couple of portable electric heaters too (at 43', we need two) that we love. We'll actually be doing a follow-up video to this next month, where we show how we're adding the ability to skew more toward electric heat than propane when desired. Stay tuned! :)
RVgeeks my problem is we are part of a resort system. I have a dilemma to consider. We are allowed to stay for 2 weeks at a time and must leave for at least 1 week before we can come back. I want to keep going through the winter but that week that we are not able to use it is completely cut off from power, water ECT. I think I need to go ahead and winterize my camper and put it into storage until winter is over. What do you think?
Since you mentioned your space heater, I assume you're in a cold climate? If so, it's probably a bit of a challenge to stay on board in the winter in the first place, due to the potential for exposed plumbing underneath, less insulation in the walls, etc. But trying to dry camp when conditions get down to near or below freezing is a real challenge, even for us highly-insulated diesel pusher types. We've spent lots of time dry camping, and lots of time in winter conditions, but rarely both simultaneously. The few times we've been in sub-freezing conditions without power is in transit, when stopping for the night in a Wal-Mart lot (usually on our way to somewhere warm)! We'd suggest that you either find a back-up park with (at least) a power hook-up for each of those weeks that you'll need to be out of your membership park, or winterize and store the RV... or head south if that's an option for you (doesn't sound like it is though). Personally, we can't imagine spending a week dry camping in a travel trailer in winter conditions. If you DO find another park nearby for those weeks you need to be away from your member park, there's also the issue of having to move your rig twice every three weeks, which could be a problem if you get much snow where you are.
I live full time in RV on the coast of BC Canada.. we do not have extreme cold winters like most of the province does but we have cold and tons of rain in fall winter and spring.. I have a propane heater (looks exactly like white one in video at 6:00) it works good to produce heat, it's quiet and pretty fuel efficient.. HOWEVER, it produces tons of moisture, it is only has two temperature production rates.. a) one of two burners.. b) both burners.. usually it gets too hot and needs to be turned to one burner or no burner... there is no thermometer rate to set it to.. there is no fan so there is no real distribution of heat around the RV.. some spots can be too hot and other spots are close to freezing at same time so I need to run a fan anyway.. even when I open window for ventilation is still makes an un-natural smell of air.. not nasty but you can tell right away that it is running.. I do not feel safe sleeping at with it on so I turn it off at bed time and RV is cold in morning.. I do not feel safe leaving it on while I go to work or play so when I get back in RV it's cold too... I'm ordering a "PROPEX 2800".. it runs on propane, is heat exchange type where exhaust is sent out side, it has fan to distribute heat in RV, it runs on thermostat so temp can be set, it is safe to run 24/7 so my RV will be the temp I want all day, all night... and most important it will not cause so much moisture in my RV.. that is my #1 problem with the heater I have.. condensation in my RV is worst problem...
+MrMeanderthal We’ve seem more people talking about Propex units and they look like an interesting option for a more permanent installation. Let us know how you like it.
You commonly find that one person who wants to turn the heat up to 95 while others are more comfortable at 65. In this case I resolved the matter with a 12volt electric blanket since she was sitting near the TV (12 volt outlet) most of the time anyway. Running the thermostat up even a single degree reduces the life of the propane cylinders. I also increased my original twin 30lbs to 40lbs and where at 19 degrees (here in Tennessee) the 30s would last 3 weeks the 40s ran 4-5 weeks. By adding electric fireplaces I was able to turn the 4-5 weeks into 6 months even though the electric bill did go up. Another CON to electric fireplaces is that mechanical chain driven sound that can trudge nauseatingly throughout the night (on cheap models).
+RVgeeks Alternatively an electric mattress pad I have found to be better than an electric blanket as the heat comes from below you , and warms the mattress as well. Of course using either would require shore power or generator use as both are 110 volt ac only as far as I know . A good question would be could an inverter handle the load and if so would batteries last an evening ? I realize there are lots of variables .
heartland96a We LOVE our electric mattress pad, and it pulls such a tiny amount of power that we can easily run it off our battery bank (through the inverter of course, since it's 110-volt) when dry camping. We generally only use it to pre-heat and then shut it off once inn bed, but we could probably leave it on all night without noticeable effect on the batteries, as they weren't too low to start with.
That's great , wasn't sure if I was suggesting something positive or not .Yes the pre-heat alone is awesome you don't expend body heat just to get warm enough to then sleep.
If your RV has two bedrooms and the man and woman sleep apart because of the difference in temperatures that they must sleep with can receive a fairly good nights sleep with a dual zone (or individual) heat pumps (permitting it is not above or below) the operating parameters of the units.
Are there actual DETECTORS that say carbon mono & propane detectors? ... I have Mr Buddy Heaters for emergency at home, but have struggled to find the right kind of detectors.
They won't detect propane, but they will detect carbon monoxide. That's why every RV is equipped with both.... a smoke/CO detector on the ceiling and a propane detector on the wall, low down near the floor, since propane is heavier than air.
as a licensed plumber and gas Journeyman, Please never use the Blueflame ones only use the infrared models which are 98%+ efficient. you will not get a headache but dryed out if no ventilation. the blueflame with the glass panel in front have flames and will cause a headache , which is co. always ventilate, always have the proper detectors and make sure the batteries are on your checklist each month. ty
I know the Infrared are great, I have never used a catalytic, Ill do some research and hollar back. A note to remember reference ANY heater especially gas. AIR EXCHANGE! Any heater which uses gas needs oxygen and you need fresh air exchange in the coach. Please make sure you have some sort of air exchange to keep fresh air in and old air out. some like me have a roof vent in front pulling air IN and a vent in rear pushing air out. it does well. Have a great day and " Keep Traveling"
from what I see there isn't alot of difference between the Catalytic and Infrared-they appear to operate the same and the Effiency rating is excellent. The cost however appears higher where the catalytic ones are concerned. I'll check back if I find out more information from users with them. "Keep Traveling"
I've watched several conversion videos of box style ambulances that in most cases have AC and heat (diesel) installed. Obviously if you're buying new, need more room and/or don't plan on going off road (far) then your options are good. On the other hand, if you're updating a large RV (class A) you may be able to find these units in wrecked ambulances and adapt them to your rig?
Here in Europe we have calor gas pans and it heats water circulation system and radiators all around the van. Or we have gas pan witch warmed air . Circulation water radiator system is silent and really great system and can be used on camping areas or anywhere. But it sure needs 12volt for circulation bump. But amps are so low that it can be used many days without loading batteries. Air heating keeps little more noise but ain't too loud. And we have also Webasto heaters which use diesel or gasoline, but it takes more electric power of batteries so it needs loading more often. You guys have much better vans there in usa like 5th wheel RV s . And I guess that you don't have cassette toilet talk etc. witch are pain in ass because it needs pull out and walk to closet to have it empty. Also you have much more fresh water in your motor homes and caravans etc. Reason for this difference is basically one reason. Our driver license classes are so much different than yours. Class A B is basically only cars and trucks under 3500kg ( about 7 K bound) and if you are not professional truck driver you only have that driver license here. So because of making these RVs and trailer vans for masses of average driver license holders manufacturers need to keep weight down. I personally would want to have fifth wheel RV but those are with electric brakes and are not in law here in Europe. Only one company has patented electronic brakes in Europe and they have done it so well that it is highly impossible to have registered any USA fifth wheel RV here without that company's axels . And they have overpriced those axels all ready. I really hope that it'll gonna change some day, but that same thing I have hope many years already.......
Espar heaters and Wabesto heaters work great also. Those are diesel bunk heaters for semi trucks and personally I prefer espar heaters because it's a little smaller than a shoe box and puts out lots of heat and uses very little current draw and very little diesel
I retired from trucking due to PsA in 2017. I lived in my tractor on the road for weeks at a time. Last one was a 2009 model. Ordered it with a small espar unit. Loved it and have spent many nights in -20° running it. NEVER got cold. There are many portable units in use now in Europe that use the same technology. Also, when I replaced the furnace in my house, I reinstalled another heating oil furnace. Best heat there is. Even in today's fuel fiasco market. In my 18 foot BH camper I use the atwood 20k propane furnace that I have tuned up each season and a couple fan forced portable electrics. The combination keeps it just toasty.
this is my first year in a travel trailer, we are looking at different systems. I am more than likely going to restore my trailer and will more than likely keep the propane furnace, but I am as looking in the use of bunk heaters in certain areas, but before I go and buy a kit I want to see if it is feasible. a second opinion is solar panels on the roof so I can run a couple space heaters. right now I am hook up to a 30 amp service but when I run a second space heater I fear that the fuses will trip, so we see I am more worried about the police giving me a hard time then the heat
Hi Elizabeth. Congratulation on your first year! We're sorry to report that running a space heater off solar isn't really practical for several reasons. First, anything that produces heat from electricity uses a lot of power.... more than would likely be produced by anything less than a lot of panels and a large battery bank to go with it. Very expensive. Second, since heat is most needed in the winter, when days are shorter and the sun stays lower in the sky, that reduces the amount of solar power when it's needed most, especially since it's coldest at night, when zero solar is available. When electric power is limited, propane or diesel is generally the best option. But since diesel most commonly comes in the form of an expensive and complex hydronic heating system (which is generally available as an option on expensive Class A motorhomes), it's probably not practical (or inexpensive) to retrofit. That leaves portable propane heaters like the one we featured in the video as one of the best options for getting heat when electric power is limited. One of the most popular brands for RVers is a Mr. Heater Buddy, like this one: amzn.to/2egFM5f Hope this helps!
Did you ever upgrade your carrier air conditioners heat pumps I am having to do that myself now on my 40 foot Demond Astoria had some questions the new units are furion
Hi Paul. Our Newmar came with two Dometic AC/heat pumps, which we replaced with identical new ones a few years ago. Ours was super simple due to our replacing with the identical units.
Was looking at buying two Furion Ac but I think I might have to run wires through my ceiling since they were WIRELESS before Have a great day and thank you again
Hi RVgeeks, very helpful video except in one key area for me. Why did you not address wood stoves, such as the Kimberly or Cubic Mini that a lot of full timers and boondockers are installing?
My favorite way to heat is with the factory installed unit. I have 2 batteries, so I've never had the 12 volt go out overnight. If the solar isn't keeping up I do have to run the generator a few hours a day to keep the 12 volt charged but that's about it. I also have an electric space heater to reduce propane use when there is shore power. It's not enough to heat the RV, but by having it throw out 10,000 btu more or less constantly it can significantly reduce the amount of time the house heater runs. I would never use a propane portable heater like a Heat Buddy inside, for several reasons. First, even if you can be sure you are venting properly, the green propane canisters are high pressure and should not be used indoors, in case there is a leak. You can go from safe to explosive very quickly. Second, they are very expensive to run on the canisters. The green canisters are typically about 4 times as much money for a given amount of propane as a refillable 20 or 30 lb tank. Third, they aren't that much more efficient than the house heater, which on modern units are typically induced flame so about 80% efficient. There is no way the extra 20% you might get from a catalytic heater overcomes the way higher cost of green bottles and the fact you need to leave a window open. So the only advantage they offer is they don't need 12 volt power. You mentioned that your catalytic heater is warm like a fireplace, and that is another way some RV's can be heated, a propane fireplace, although I don't have one. I do have a natural gas fireplace in my house and it can be run either with or without the fan, although it is more efficient with the fan. I assume RV gas fireplaces are the same. I've also seen some brave souls install small wood stoves in their RV. However that looks like too much hassle and takes up too much space to me. And firewood isn't always readily available. If you have to buy it at the store in those little packages it's more expensive than propane. So in my opinion the best option for most people is to just use the house heater that came with the RV, buy an extra battery so you have at least 2, and add a small electric space heater for when you have shore power. A gas fireplace can also be nice if your RV happens to have one. Everything else is either too expensive to run, dangerous, or a hassle.
Hi Art. While we do a lot of boondocking, we have a number of friends who are even more serious about it than we are, spending much, or all, of most winters out in the AZ desert. The reason that Kozy World heaters are so popular (most of us have them) is because when there is no shore power available, a space heater isn't workable, and the house heater that the RV came with (on-board propane furnace) blasts through propane like there's no tomorrow. Portable propane heaters absolutely rock, providing intense heat while sipping such a small amount of propane that it's amazing. The key is to have a port installed in the RV that allows you to forego the expensive and annoying little gas cylinders and connect directly to the on-board propane tank. People line up to get the shops in Quartzsite to install those ports, but once they're in, the winter dry camping experience is transformed. We can speak from experience - before and after having one - winter boondocking using an on-board furnace vs a portable (Kozy, Buddy, etc) is like night and day. We would never go back. They use ZERO power, sip propane, and having to crack a window is no problem, since the heat they put out is so great, it more than makes up for it. Of course when there IS power available, that's a whole different situation, and electric space heaters are awesome. But there are many choices out there, and as my mother would say: "That's why they make vanilla and chocolate!" 😊
I could see it being a good option if you are using the RV propane and only heating part of the RV. It's the cost of those little green bottles that put me off. You can easily heat the whole RV with the house heater for the same cost! (But you do need 12 volt as well.) I suppose for people who spend enough time winter boon docking getting a connection installed for it would be worth while because it's more flexible and doesn't drain the batteries. I put my RV away when the snow flies. Around here (Canada, fuel is quite expensive compared to the US so I don't even run the BBQ on green bottles if I'm going to be in one spot for any length of time. The bottles are $4 each, whereas it's about a buck a pound to fill a $30 lb tank, less at Costco, so the bottles are 4 times as much. It's the disposable steel bottle you are paying for, plus it's a retail item. You have that solved with your hose but I think that would be the only way it makes sense. That's probably why the installation is so popular with the people you know, that hose will pay for itself pretty quickly.
Hi Guys, If you were getting a new DP what system/setup would you get? What brand of Hydronic system? Heard Aqua-Hot is costly to maintain & repair. Maybe all brands are. Would you go all electric? Hard to beat propane. Be interesting to compare cost of fuels. Thx!!
We would go hands down with the diesel Oasis hydronic system. Heard lots of great things about it, and diesel has many times the BTUs as an equivalent amount of propane. And of course we carry lots of it on board. 😉
Well... not necessarily, as we love a gas stove and wouldn’t want to have to give that up. We know that lots of people love electric, induction cooktops. But we haven’t used one, so can’t say. So we’d have to say we want a “mostly electric” RV. 😉
@@RVgeeks Yes I like cooking with gas too! BTUs. Yes diesel has higher BTU #. But propane is cheaper. Have to figure out cost per BTU. BTW, Does anybody have a website that follows motorhome trends, industry? Thx!!
@@MililaniJag All electric is great if you will always have shore power but what about when you are traveling or parked someplace without shore power? You have to fire up the generator 100% of the time while heating. Not a great choice to listen to that all night. Some form of flame works best over the long haul. We also agree the propane stove and oven is best for the kitchen vs. electric and having the generator run when not around shore power. Some say, "What's the point of boondocking if you have to use that generator often". There are lots of options however, folks simply have to know that any kind of flame inside an RV will require a point of entry for fresh air to come inside and only enough to prevent CO issues so you aren't losing all of the heat generated.
No idea why manufacturers don't, at least, offer supplemental coach heaters that warm by using engine coolant. It's basically free heat while driving, only takes a little extra plumbing and can be plumbed into the existing ductwork. It would take a DIYer a day or so to install one. They can be found at speed shops, truck shops, Amazon, eBay... Ambitious types could also add/build a water heater that's heated by engine coolant as well (it isn't rocket science afterall, just a pipe passing through a five gallon metal bucket with a thermo-valve controlling how hot it gets.) Pull over at the end of the day, stretch out for a bit, take a hot shower...
Hi Guys, I have a question for you, hopefully you might know about this... Have you ever compared a Kozy World propane heater to a Mr. Buddy propane heater? Do they operate and produce heat in the same way? I believe they both can be plumbed into an RV propane system so I'm wondering if either one offers any advantage in cooler weather. Thank you!
Hi Rick! We don't have personal experience with Mr. Buddy, but we know they're very popular and well-rated, and we believe them to be about equivalent. We're pretty sure the Big Buddy ( amzn.to/2eYKDDz ) is closer to ours in output. It includes an O2 depletion sensor (like ours) and a tip-over switch (which ours does not, but we have no kids or pets so don't care). Ours does have a thermostatic control, vs the Mr. Heater only having a low, med and high setting. Both can be plumbed into the RV the same way, Ours seems to come in and out of availability, and is currently available on Amazon for quite a bit more than we paid for it: amzn.to/2ff9XpW The new model from Kozy World that's about to come out to replace ours is also expensive ( amzn.to/2gfvX8a ) and it's not available yet. And both Kozy World heaters require the purchase of legs to use them freestanding on the floor vs wall mounted. We're very happy with out heater, but based on the current pricing, we'd almost certainly give the Mr. Heater a shot if we were shopping for one today. Looks as though a lot of people are very happy with them. One thing we saw is that the Big Buddy is supposedly only effective to about 7,000' elevation. Hope this all helps! :)
This comment actually goes to a different video that you guys did a while back when you guys made that water hose and tried to keep it from freezing you know I was coming around on Amazon couple of months ago well within the within a month and they actually make this water hose that's fully insulated and has one of those heat tape things built into it if you guys ever decide to to go camping in the winter time again you guys should consider getting one it's a really nice
+sherman lassche That’s one of them, Sherman. We’ve also seen another brand that’s also very expensive. We used heat tape because it’s so cheap and does the same thing (although maybe not quite as elegantly). 😉
RVgeeks yeah I guess you guys are right a hundred 70 bucks for a hose is kind of expensive and it's only 4:25 ft I thought it was a little longer then they had this other one that was 40 feet but it was right at $100 I think it's on sale to red one but the video was pretty good I like that video I don't know if I'm how is that drinking water thing doing did you guys ever get one of those tester things and test the water going in and out see exactly how well it's working yes I was the one who made that comment
Our Acuva water purifier is working great! We never thought about how cavalier we were about drinking directly from the fresh water tank until now. Even though the fresh tank is sanitized, we love knowing that we're totally protected now. :)
One question with your propane heater. Does it work fine at high altitudes? The best rated on Amazon says it will not perform well above 7,000, but many of the parks I want to visit are more around 8,500. Would appreciate your input on its performance. (Also the model name if you don't mind)
+Britain Reynolds Hi Britain! Sorry we can't say firsthand how well our heater works at altitude. We spend most winters in the Desert SW, which is where it gets most of its use while we're boondocking in the desert. We have heard that some heaters don't work well at altitude, so we'd have to defer to the manufacturers specs and instructions. Our Kozy World model is the KWP-122: www.worldmkting.com/wall-heater-8
Hi! I used a little buddy heater for a couple seasons but found that at elevations above 7500 feet (alike Great Sand dunes National Park) it was hard to get it to stay lit and not shut down (due to the high elevation thinner air). We changed it a catalytic heater called the Wave 3 and it works great!
I tried to run two space heaters in our 30 foot Class C Rv when we got caught in cold winter weather. One was an infrared space heater for the living room are and the other was a small ceramic heater for the bedroom. Unfortunately, trying to run them both at the same time kept popping the circuit breaker in the RV. So we were only able to use the infrared heater in the living room. Any ideas on why we can't run both the heaters at the same time? Your video indicated that we should be able to with our 30 amp hookup. Thanks for the informative videos!
30 amps should be enough to run two space heaters, but not much else. You'll need to make sure that virtually all other loads of any size are turned off (that doens't include very small draws, such as the water pump, a few lights, etc... just no other big draws... such as water heater and fridge, which should both be set to propane mode). You'll also want to be sure to plug the heaters into outlets that are on different circuits. If you were to plug them into the same outlet at the same time (or into outlets that are on the same ciurcuit breaker), that would likely trip that specific breaker. If ALL of your electric outlets in the RV run off the same circuit breaker, that may indeed prevent you from using both at once. Hope this helps!
IM LEARNING THE BEST SOLUTION IS TO HEAD SOUTH BUT JUST COULDNT UP AND GO BEING A NEWBIE. IM IN A 2004 BOUNDER 35R WHICH THE FURNACE HEATS THE BASEMENT THANKFULLY. I PUT AN EXTEND A STAY TEE ON MY PROPANE SYSTEM. AND USE A SMALL DUAL WATT CERAMIC FOR ABOVE FREEZING BELOW FREEZING I HAVE TO USE THE FURNACE OR FROZEN PIPES. I MADE A HEATED DRINKING WATER HOSE WITH THE SELF REGULATING HEAT CABLE. NO CAMPGROUNDS OPEN IN THE MID ATLANTIC AREA. HOPING TO GET A WORK CAMPING POSITION WITH AN OUTFIT THAT HAS MULTIPLE LOCATIONS SO NEXT OCTOBER I CAN HEAD TO A SOUTHERN LOCATION.
We started out RVing full-time in a 2002 Bounder, breaking free of the Mid-Atlantic region as well. So we wish you the best in getting out of there before next winter. In the meantime, it sounds like you're off to a great start managing your systems.
I HAVE A PROBLEM MAYBE YOU CAN GIVE ME SOME INSIGHT. I HAVE NO POWER GOING TO MY KIB 330 TANK MONITOR IN DASH NO PWER TO PROPANE ALARM NO PWER TO BUILT IN CO2 DETECTOR ALL FUSES ARE GOOD IN BCC. I BOUGHT A PLUG IN CO2. DETECTOR COACH BATTERYS ARE FULLY CHARGED AS WELL AS CHASIS BATTERY READS 13. VOLTS. IM CALLING FLEETWOOD ON MONDAY TO SEE IF THEY CAN GIVE ME THE LOCATION OF A GROUND WIRE FOR THOSE 3 DEVICES EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS BEAUTIFULLY. IVE PULLED AND CLEANED AND SPRAYED ALL BATTERY CABLES AND CONNECTIONS. JUST WONDERING IF I HAVE A DEAD SPOT ON THE INTELITECH BOARD. IF YOU CAN THINK OF SOMETHING I MISSED. THANK YOU
+Greg Wierzbicki The only thing we can think of that all of those circuits might have in common is the chassis battery disconnect. If you check in your engine compartment to make sure it's on, it would eliminate that as a possibility (assuming you have a gas rig, and that they have a main battery disconnect, like our diesels have). Barring that, a common ground could be it.
YES I HAVE THE 8.1 CHEVY ON WORKHORSE 22. THAT IS THE ONE THING I DIDNT CHECK BECAUSE I DISCONECTED THE NEGATIVE ON THE CHASIS BATTERY BECAUSE IVE BEEN SITTING FOR A MONTH NOW I PUT STABIL IN MY GAS TANK. THERES TWO BREAKERS IN THE BOTTOM OF THE BCC BOX IVE GOT TO TEST ALSO. I JUST DONT WANT TO PAY A MOBILE RV TECH UNTIL IVE CHECKED EVERYTHING POSSIBLE THAT I KNOW HOW TO CHECK.. IF I HAD ONE OR TWO TANK SENSORS OUT IT WOULD POSSIBLY BE A CONTACT WIRE ON THE TANK ITSELF. A NEW CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE KIB IS LIKE $36 BUT A WHOLE NEW INTELLITECH BOARD IS $389 AND THAT STUFF I CAN ORDER AND INSTALL MYSELF. I REALLY APPRECIATE YOU GETTING BACK TO ME SO QUICKLY ILL CHECK THOSE DISCONNECTS TOMORROW AND LET YOU KNOW MY PROGRESS. I MADE THE GRAVE MISTAKE OF NOT FLIPPING MY BYPASS ON THE WATER HEATER AND FRIED MY ELEMENT. THAT LITTLE COMPARTMENT UNDED THE WATER HEATER DOESNT GIVE YOU A BUNCH OF ROOM TO WORK. THATS MY NEXT PROJECT IS TO CHANGE OUT THAT ELEMENT. ITS A SCREW IN AND THATS GOING TO BE FUN, FUN, FUN...BUT SINCE I HAVE FULL 30 AMP POWER AND CITY WATER WHERE IM CAMPED UNTIL CASTAWAYS OPENS IN BERLIN. I HAVE A PHONE INTERVIEW SET UP WITH SUN COMMUNITIES FOR A MAINTENANCE TECH WORK CAMPER. SUN HAS 120 PROPERTIES IN FLORIDA ALONE SO THATS MY GOAL TO LAND A POSITION WITH THEM THEN I CAN BOUNCE BACK AND FORTH WITH THE SEASONS. THANKS AGAIN GUYS REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR TIME.
+Greg Wierzbicki Hey Greg. If your chassis batteries are still disconnected, we're guessing there's a good chance that's your problem. Good luck with it!
wish i knew about that hydronic system. I imagine you set it up almost like you would boiler heat? We dont live in the rv anymore so too late now to get one. ps. got a 40' for sale lol
They are indeed like a boiler. But hydronic heat systems have to come from the factory. They're so deeply embedded into the structure of an RV, I can't imagine anyone adding it in later.
We go south almost every winter, so we do agree with you. But sometime there are reasons to stay north, like family, etc. We're headed south right now... late! LOL Our motto is "Winter is a Choice." :)
Except some of us love the cold weather. I love to take my travel trailer up into the local mountains and stay where the snow is. I enjoy the absolute silence when it’s snowing (no wind) while having my morning cup of coffee. Spending a week or two like that calms me so completely that I cannot find the words to describe it.
Question: I just purchased a new fifth wheel with a heat pump. It feels like it's just blowing air around and isn't warm at all. I've heard that the heat pumps don't put out a lot of heat. How do I know if it's broken or just doesn't heat very well? My dealer is a hour away or else I would just take it by there.
Hi Tyler! Heat pumps generally only work down to about 40 degrees (outside temperature). Below that, they can't pull enough heat out of the air to work. If you're trying to use them this time of year in a cold climate, that could certainly be the problem. The odds of a new RV having heat pumps that don't work is unlikely (although certainly possible). The easiest and cheapest way to test is to wait for a day when it's 45-50 degrees outside and try them then. Hopefully you're not in Minnesota though! ;-) One other thing... if you try running the A/C, does it blow icy cold? If so, the coolant is probably okay. Of course if it's 10 degrees outside, you might get icy cold air anyway. If you do get that warmer day to test, it might take a bit fore the air to blow warm. Heat pumps start blowing immediately, even before the air warms up, so you might have to wait a bit before cool air becomes warm air. Hope this helps a bit.
Luckily I live in Georgia we almost never see 10 degrees. When I tried it the first time it was 60 degrees out side and the rv temp didn't change temperature after 20 minutes. I just tried it again tonight with it about 68 degrees outside (you read that right). It was 70 in the RV. Thermostat set on 75 Came back after 20 minutes and it was 69 degrees. It actually went down. I am running a 13K ac off of a 15amp household amp. Maybe it doesn't have enough power but I figured if it didn't have enough power it would just trip the breaker. The AC ran fine.
If it ran fine in AC mode... it should've run in Heat Pump mode, too. Sounds like the reversing valve might be stuck. We assume you're under warranty, since it's new? Sorry to say it looks like you'll need to make that hour trip for warranty work. Maybe you could combine it with a nice weekend road trip... to make it worthwhile? On the 15amp breaker... it's true that it would have tripped the breaker if the heat pump needed more than 15amps. But be careful... relying on the breaker to protect you when using more than it's rated for could lead to trouble. 15 amps is probably just enough to run the air conditioner/heat pump... so if anything else was running (like the battery charger or water heater on electric), it could easily pull more than 15 amps. So you'll want to be sure everything else is shut off.
Heat pumps are the opposite of useless! They rock.... down to about 40F, at which point they won’t work. We love ours. The perfect heat source for fall weather when hooked up at an RV Park.
Michael... we haven't used one, but it seems like lots of people really like the Mr. Heater Buddy & Big Buddy units. You might want to check them out and see if they'll do what you need ( amzn.to/2Hch0js ). They use the small, disposable propane canisters.
Long time ago before I knew more about heat pumps I wanted to have one in my first RV just for the fact there electric. but after I did research around that time, I changed mind completely. Due to the power requirements, and the 40' Useless limits. Honestly My own space heaters just one not even set on high keeps mine in the 70s when its around those temps. Real low temps both my space heaters keep it comfy. I also never put them on full blast ether. One is a standard 1500 watt when on full blast the other is just a 600 watt max. The only parts I have worry about freezing are my waste tanks. The longest water line in the RV while not set up yet, I am gonna hook up an intake fan that pull in heat from the living space, So my water lines should stay above freezing, along with the outside fresh water hose being wrapped in heat tape. Aside thinking about a more proper way to keep my waste tanks from freezing the heating in the living space is always comfy. And my Rigs a 27' Foot Class C, and a very old one at that so not really built with winter living in mind, but it stays nice inside during the winter. The summer has me bothered. The Roof AC Blower motor keeps leaking the 3 in 1 oil I keep putting in it. I need to either rebuild the motor put new seals in it or spend $100 on another motor, but do have a 2nd AC to cool the RV so Should still keep comfy summer or winter. All without complex systems that cost a lot, and Don't plan to do any boondocking unless absolutely necessary, and Then I plan to work on generating my own power and get a nicer Inverter in the future, no fuel generators or shore power. But a nice video for those that are looking for methods other than my own.
I have no doubts that boondocking could provide interesting times provided proper temps. And I would likely not even have a heater on. Spring and fall are the only times I am even comfy. I dun use heat or AC during those times. unless i have something on that puts out a lot heat like when cooking, a lot of electronics on or something. but too cold, or too hot, i just get sick. so spring time and fall are my time. lol So other than them times i would like to be able to control my environment. Which until i have my set up for self generating power all the way set up, boondocking wouldn't be my fav thing to do very often.
![ILLSLICK - THE KING'S LANDING [Freestyle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/feIJJnNkTfk/mqdefault.jpg)
Surprising how many seem to take issue with the expression "wake up dead." I've heard that all my life as a tongue-in-cheek warning. Great video, thanks.
Thanks Phil! We're not sure what this issue is either, but we're definitely hoping to continue waking up alive! LOL
I love the unbiased and honest nature of your information. Thanks for making the videos.
In Colorado winter, down comforters, three heat sources, propane furnace rarely comes on because I have a oil radiator heater in bedroom area, space heater going on three years with that little heater and rv stays at 72 degrees and I do have a Polar Package RV. I covered windows with corrugated aluminum rolled insulation and have skylights so get light and one window I uncover during day. Oh I also covered the metal door with Aluminum insulation and put a long insulated curtain on door, so when coming in and out the heat does not just rush out the door.As I write this its 17 degrees outside. Thanks for your video.
Thanks for sharing about the oil radiator. I’ve been thinking about getting one as it seems like the safest option for space heaters. I have a 25’ class C. Do you think one would be enough?
I love how objective and detailed your videos are. I'm not an RVer yet, but really enjoy learning about it as I think about trying it out. Great job guys!
Thanks! Not an RVer "YET"! Sounds like it's in the works! :)
I Think RV Wood stoves should be discussed. There are many people converting their large RV's to marine type galley stoves that have very small fire boxes and are super safe.
I absolutely love wood stoves but when I looked into one for my RV is just wasn't a good idea. It would be fun but far from practical. Fuel cost and storage, safety for so many reasons, hassles with safety devices (CO2, fire detectors ), maintaining heat, cost of CORRECTLY installing, loss of interior space, weight, and don't forget the cost of the stove itself. If you have free access to wood and your RV is more of a permanent cabin it becomes a lot more practical.
@@mcombsemail Wood stove heat requires no expense other than the initial set up and the use of good old common sense. The idea being it gives emergency as well as everyday heat and no or little expense while eliminating dependency on other heating fuels that are often difficult to find or afford. As you travel around you'll find a huge supply of small wood scraps for free. Everywhere i've traveled i've found pallets, tree limbs and even unwanted firewood. I Have a small construction type miter saw box that cuts firewood perfectly to the required tiny size. All it takes is dedicating one storage compartment in your Rv for your wood supply. Safe installation and operation comes down to common sense used just like heating your house, but on a more attentive level. Just make sure you have a fresh air supply for the stove and for you and a fire suppression system and back up. I Added a extra long spray hose on my sink so if i have an emergency i can put the little fire out quickly.
@@RetreatfarmFarmvilleVirginia Please be specific about the make and model of wood stove and how it was installed. I'm also curious about the size of your dedicated fuel storage and how long that supply would last during the winter. My current temp is 29 degrees. Low 40's during the day, mid 20's at night.
I would suggest seeing what might be available with pellet burning frunaces. Don't know is an RV unit is made but the have them for home heating systems. Also small fire places are an option you might look at. Perhaps rigged with a continous pellet feeder. Cheers
@@mcombsemail I Bought a
GRIZZLY Cubic Mini Wood Stove for my '90 Winnebago Chieftain and took out the one single lounge chair next to the side door and built a aluminum corner hearth that covered the bottom half of the right window and used that window as a fresh air supply to the stove, then i fire/heat proofed the two corner walls with two layers of fire rated sheet rock and a layer of fire brick veneer and mortar. Then i installed a triple wall 3 inch flue pipe up thru the overhead cabinet and then the edge of the roof right where the roof ends at the flat area, then sealed it to the roof inside and out and then lined the stove and pipe up plumb then bolted it to the hearth. I Also made a small smoke deflector for the leading edge of the pipe cap so if the stove is in operation and i need to move the RV i can without worrying about smoke backing down the chimney from the wind draft. The stove sets a little over 2 foot from any soft fabric or wood combustibles and have one extra layer of fire proof sheet rock as a extra heat protection layer.
Tried a Mr. Heater in an effort to resolve excessive battery use while dry camping, but was not impressed with the odor (aka fumes) that are inescapable. Ended up trying a vented propane heater, but not the expensive variety now on the market. You may recall that small RVs of the 1970s used them under brand names of Duo-Therm and Hydro-Flame.
These were termed "gravity furnaces" in some quarters due to their self venting co-axial ducts to the exterior. They had a built-in pilot light and adjustable thermostat with 10 to 15 thousand BTU output while designed to mount in existing cabinet work. Some had a wall thermostat and/or small 12v fan as accessories, but they worked fine without. A small USB powered fan will circulate heat evenly if desired.
They can be found in wrecked RVs of that vintage for little cost, and are an ideal solution for this purpose. I use two of them to zone heat my 35ft class A motor home using very little propane and no 12v electricity.
LP spiked in winter last year and never really went down so I bought two Pelonis oil radiators on sale. Using a mix of both I've had one of the most comfortable winters to date.
+dstubby82 Oil radiators are great! No fans, no ignition point to worry about with close by flammables, and they are completely silent! They really are in a class of their own.
Thats my preference too.. I had a few fan driven space heaters and the ones I bought died quick. The oil filled seem to be more reliable and produce a lot of heat though you may need a fan to help direct air to where you need it. I have to move mine around kinda between the bedroom area and the couch.
Keven W The Honda eu2000 puts out a continuous 1600watts, so look for an electric heater that has a 1000watt setting and then you can also power other 110volt appliances.
We lived in our camper for two years in the mountains of WV (above the 3000' line) while we built our house. I decommissioned and removed the propane furnace from the camper because of the dangers of CO poisoning, having heard of the 12+ deaths that year from people using built-in units in their RVs. Instead, we opted for good insulation, consisting first of straw bales placed around the camper to insulate the underneath from cold and wind, then foam insulation for the exposed waterlines in the non-living spaces of the camper, being sure to leave the sides facing the interior clear.
During cold weather (our weather station recorded temperatures of -9 F) we left cabinet doors open to allow heat from the main living spaces to radiate out to the plumbing and services (grey/black water). we used standard plug-in 115v forced-air space heaters (2) to keep us warm and kept the cold water supply running on a drip to keep the main water line from freezing.
Of course, the grey and black water tanks froze during these periods, but a dose of RV antifreeze after a few days in each kept the system flowing in general and removed ice buildup in the drain lines, which is really the only concern for the RVer.
Bottom line: Cold weather is not an issue, if you take reasonable steps..............................
Nice work Mike! Minus 9 is hard core! Colder than we had to deal with.
RVgeeks I'm not going to say it was easy, but we did what we had to do to get by. Had I known then what I know now it would have been a piece of cake. Some of the stuff was a no-brainer in retrospect, but I had no clue how cold invades a closed space and forms pockets and zones of freezing conditions within a box that is your living space.
One of the basic things one can do is have anything that moves air throughout the camper. Simply mixing the air will eliminate cold-spots and help keep your plumbing and services frost-free. Even if you don't have strong heaters, you'd be amazed at how effective moving air is toward keeping water lines clear.
The other point I'd make is that humidity and moister will build up, regardless of measures against it. You will get thick ice coating the lower portions (including the drain port) of your windows and will occasionally need to use a hair-dryer to de-ice windows and even door-jambs in snowy-humid conditions. A window squeegee is a welcome addition to your winter kit for conditions like these.
Like anything, experience is your best teacher, but I hope I've helped mitigate the challenges for anyone newly embarking on the life.
Safe travels and happy camping to all......
Mike Brown Thanks for adding your expertise to the conversation, Mike. Props!
Hello fellow Mountaineer. Live in Bluefield here where -10° hits at least once a winter. I love camping @ Camp Creek State park nearby and hunting in winter. Especially atop Flat Top mountain. The challenge at 67 yo is refreshing. I'm here as I write. Last day of Mountaineer Heritage Season in today.
I use the furnace on high for a good hour then use electric heaters until i feel it get cooler i switch back and forth few times a night and i always open the vents
Re AquaHot hydronic. They're loud, and they have limited capability if you're running off the electric hot water.
I've got a 2017 Phaeton 40' with AquaHot, heated floors, electric fireplace, and 3 AC/heat-pump units. I'm way down south at the moment (New Mexico) and it has been in the mid to high 20's at night.
The Aquahot pump is quite loud and it cycles frequently, enough that it often wakes me up at night. The air circulation fans also cycle. They're not horrifically loud but definitely louder than forced air in a stick and brick home. I try hard not to use the AquaHot with diesel heat when I'm in an RV park because the burner and pump are plenty loud enough to hear outside.
Using the diesel burner for the hot water, the coach stays consistently warm and toasty. Works as advertised, plus unlimited hot water. I've taken 15 minute very hot showers, works great.
Using the electric hot water, it runs out of hot water long before it even gets the coach warm, let alone up to temperature (thermostat at 63F). The air circulation fans run briefly but the air quickly becomes lukewarm and so it shuts off until it heats the water up enough to run again...lather rinse repeat. Not a viable option below about 35F.
Another pro for AquaHot, the engine preheat also works the other way around. You can turn off both diesel and electric hot water while you're driving and still have scalding hot water when you stop because it scavenges engine heat for the hot water.
The heated floors combined with electric fireplace do a brilliant job of keeping the interior nice and evenly warm...with the caveat that they consume electricity like governments consume money.
The floors don't have thermostats, they just have settings 1 to 5. I usually don't use the rear, I prefer it cool in the bedroom, but I
usually set the front on 2, or if it's going to be really cold out, 3.
I stayed a week at a park that metered the electric. It's the first time I've stayed like that so I used only the electric heat and hot water to see how much power they consume. Lowest overnight temp was 26F, highest daytime was 64F. I intentionally kept it warm, and I was less than vigilant, 3 or 4 times I forgot to turn off the floors in the morning until interior temps hit 67F to 73F.
In 7 days I managed to burn through 326kWh of electricity! $59/week at $0.18/kWh. That also includes running 3 computers and UPS for them 24x7, jetpack, dash cams and half a dozen other electronic devices.
That's also with a 1,600W solar array contributing 100-300Wh each day (it only charges the batteries so it doesn't offset loads that aren't on the inverter)
I've only used the heat pumps once, just to make sure they worked. The problem with them is that if you use them at night, you've got to be certain that temps won't go below 40F before morning, otherwise you're going to have to get up and switch heat sources. They seem like they're only a solution for cool summer nights...and then I'd much rather have warm floors under my feet anyway.
Thanks for another great video! How about doing one on tricks/tips for planning and driving when your destination is a place you haven't stayed before? How do you find 'em, how do you evaluate them, how do you plan your route?
I use allstays, rvparkreviews, and overnightrvparking, and I try to use mapquest or google maps and satellite imagery and such but I sometimes miss turns anyway. I've been lucky so far only had to drop the towed unit once so that I could get turned around. I'm guessing it's mostly because I'm a noob and partly because I'm solo and can't view or adjust routes without pulling over, which isn't always an option.
One thing you might want to mention is plumbing located outside the RV interior is typically kept warm with the RV heater through a series of heated chases. (At least that is the case with my travel trailer). A portable propane heater is great for the interior but will not keep this plumbing from freezing in very cold conditions. I know someone who tried to return his RV because his plumbing froze. The first question the dealer asked was "did you use a portable heater"? Thanks for the well presented information!
+Randy Marlatt Thanks for the great additional tip!
We used an Olympian catalytic space heater in our 31ft Class A. We plumbed it into the existing Propane lines with a quick disconnect. It worked great. New just took delivery on a Leisure Travel Vans Unity FX. will plumb the Unity to be able to utilize the Olympian as well. We also carry an electric space heater for when we are on shore power. Love your videos.
+Gregory Locke Sounds like you’ve got a great setup, Gregory! Thanks for the info and the nice comment. 😊
So I have never heard of anyone else doing this, but I installed a 500w 110v baseboard heater in the center of my fifth wheel passthrough storage area up against the rear wall. Because it radiates rising heat, it keeps my bedroom and bathroom toasty, uses 1/3 of what most space heaters use, and runs on a thermosat I also installed. I wired directly to its own breaker. Only thing i am careful of is ensuring I have a good 6" of clearance in front of it. Just thought I would share.
Awesome idea,but they do use a bit more electricity than a space heater don't they?
I have got a wabasto diesel heater it works well and provides hot water and heat using diesel from the engine tank
My issue right now is cooling .... but in our 1999 Foretravel U320 we have a Aqua hot system that provides hydronic heating and hot water. One of the reasons I went with the U320 model. The main drawback is maintenance. But as long as you keep up with the yearly maintenance schedule, your good to go. It has 3 heat modes, engine waste heat, 120 volt, and diesel. Pretty sweet system. Our coach is propane free and I like that. Even though you haven't used one, you hit the points on the head. Great video as usual. Thanks.
Thanks so much, Bob! Great to hear from yet another satisfied hydronic heat owner. We're sure our next RV will have it, too! 😊
Great vid and timely. I've been a long time RVer, part time only. I recently bought a toy hauler, it's a fixer as I got a steal on the rig and do all my own work. I tested the furnace, it worked when I bought it. We ended up camping in the desert as we do this time of year. The evenings are in the high 40's low 50's at night. We needed the furnace and it wouldn't fire, fan came on went off after 15 seconds, I knew it was going to be a job fixing it and didn't want to deal with it then. We piled on the blankets and in the mornings I would fire the generator up and use our space heater. I also had a catalytic Coleman one burner, we got by. Glad you mention the propane heater, I didn't know much about them, now I know what we need to carry as an extra source.
Uggh, Timmy... nothing worse than having the furnace crap out on you when you need it most! From what you're describing, it sounds like it could be any one of the following problems:
(1) the sail switch... it's a safety device that get's triggered when the blower comes on to let the furnace know that the air is moving so it's safe to fire up the burner. If the sail switch goes, the furnace won't fire up because it could overheat.
(2) propane supply... could be low propane pressure (how full is your tank?) or an issue with the regulator. Do other propane appliances work as expected?
(3) the thermocouple... if that goes, the circuitry doesn't think that the burner has lit, so it shuts down the furnace to keep there from being a fire hazard from non-ignited propane.
Hope you find the source of the trouble and get it fixed. But, if not, a heater like the Kozy World we have (or a Mr. Heater Big Buddy or an Olympian Wave Catalytic heater) is a good insurance policy against freezing overnight! ;)
Well I pulled the furnace out today to check it out, ( not easy ), I had read about the tests to do, turns out it was the sail switch, The rig had been sitting for a long time, the switch was sticky, so I removed it clean it and it flops like it's supposed to. I notice on some switches they sell there is a tiny piece of metal on the end to catch more air, about he size of half a dime. I don't know if mine fell off or if it never had one. Being it's such a bear to get out, I am going to glue a tiny square of tin foil on and test it again before reinstalling. Thanks for the tips and tricks, will be ordering a heater as back up, off to Quartzsite next week, warm nights predicted, high 40's low 50's.
I use Big Buddy and it works very well. I have 2 extra CO-2 detectors and besides is CO-2 gets high the heater will and I mean WILL turn itself off. Happy cold camping.
We've heard great things about the buddy heaters, too! Good to hear it works well for you. And we're not generally "cold campers" (we actually hate winter)! We snowbird most of the time. :)
Who makes the Big Buddy heater?
It’s made by Mr. Heater, and available on Amazon: amzn.to/2UuDxQ6
I found the propane heaters to be two factors. First, they didn't have an auto on/off temp setting that could help keep the RV near a set temp. Secondly, they have NO thermal mass to keep the heat radiating for hours after it is shut off. One more thing I didn't hear was the price to install electric heat in AC units which typically runs $450 (per AC unit) and while you don't have to store them the cost does not justify installing them for two reasons. The electrical consumption is not adjustable like on the $45 Lasko ceramic egg heater (750 / 1500 watt) which you can heat just one area or use multiple to heat separate zones while still saving thousands of dollars (if you cannot install the AC heat yourself). Likewise having a space heater allows you to connect to a 110 extension cord if 30/50 amp is not available. Very good video. Thanks again for sharing.
Since I live on a permanent spot, I have a small woodstove that I use all the time. I also have a Mr. Heater, convection heater, an oil radiator heater. I installed a small electric water heater inside so that I don't have to worry about the propane one freezing and bursting (that happened) And I keep an electric blanket on the bed and one on the couch. Staying warm is very important to me!
Sandra Hendricks I just gutted my RV and plan remodel to live in it while I land hunt. What kind of wood stove do you use and in what size space? I am not a fan of even Texas cold! Been starting to shop for heaters and wood stove appeals to me more than anything. Aaand I just scrapped my stove
6:20 "You'll wake up dead", cracked me up. Great and informational video. Thanks.
Ive woke up at times with a gruesome hangover, that I wished I was dead.
SyberPrepper It is impossible to "wake up dead". Glad you caught it.
I thought that the whole purpose of living in an RV is to always be chasing 64.9°. With that, why is this subject even worth mentioning? Get a road map and tepid beverage.
+Dro Pleckk Not the "whole"purpose. Just "one of" them.
Q
I think a diesel forced air heater might be the best way to go. Just a thought. You might want to check it out.
Greetings: Love your channel! We have a hydronic system, in our 2002 Beaver Monterey, and YES once it is down for repairs you in big trouble during freezing temps. Having issues now that need addressed and looking at other options for heat; which is why I went to your site first. A plus is that the hydronic system does have an electric element to assist in heating when the diesel fails. It isn't meant for such issues but does help keep things from becoming ice-sculptors. It looks like we will be doing electric heaters as I fix our hydronic system. Almost purchased a roof heat pump until your video on how it stops working below 40 deg-F. Here in Colorado 40 deg-F can be a heat wave (LoL). Again thank you for the video, and we wish you both safe travels.
Thanks Charles! We have indeed heard about older hydronic systems being more trouble-prone than the newer ones today. We're going to be spending this winter in a cold climate (not as bad as in Colorado though!) but mostly on a 30-amp hook-up. We don't want to have to move the RV to go get propane, and delivery isn't readily accessible here, so we've mad a modification to our rig to allow us to heat entirely on electric, even with only 30-amp service. We have a 2-part video coming out next month all about our secret mod. Stay tuned! ;-)
Truck House Life does a really good install video of a webasto heater..
By the way Big Buddy has a tip over safety shutoff. and I do connect it to a propane tank outside through a port on the side of the trailer.
thanks for covering all the bases...very informative ..as usual!
Great video !!! We use a Mr. Buddy ceramic type heater (portable) which can use the 1lb tanks or operate directly from the onboard propane system.... we do use a filter in the supplyline when connected to a 20lb or larger tank
My Heater Portable Big Buddy Radiant heater/Propane that you can use 1lb canisters or hook up to a larger tank. Has tip over protection, and an oxygen sensor to help protect you from carbon monoxide poisoning.
Our coach has 4 ways. A diesel furnace with hydronic zones. , a heat pump, electric heat and propane heat. One thing we like is an old fashion electric blanket.
Wow! That’s awesome, Christopher! And we’re with you... our electric mattress pad is our favorite! 😎
I think that the name of hydronic heat is amusing. Sounds complicated and hitech. Except that it been around for a long time in houses. Boilers burning fuel oil that heats a coil with water circulating through it that sends it out to the heating pipes/baseboards. The pipes using fins transfer the heat to the air keeping you toasty warm san fans. They use the passive method of heating that saves electricity. Airstream does the same with their classic models as far as I know.
tHE OLD CAST IRON UNITS WERE THE BEST
Perfect overview of the various systems for rv heating. Thanks!
Didn't know heat pumps don't work under 40 degrees! I like having multiple sources, but not really needed in socal where I do 95% of my rving in winter. Another great video, well researched!
I have a class B RV Campervan so I don't need much heat but a tiny little 1500 watt heats it up real nice. But my furnace does very well also. There are always pros and cons while traveling to dif areas offering dif temps. But I guess I just have it a bit easier in a small class B. I have not made a video on heating.. but sounds like a good idea! THANKS GREAT VIDEO!
Great video. we wintered in Our Class A Discovery (40 ft) . Our basement heat came from the propane. We augmented our heat at night with two ceramic heaters and left the house heat on 55 for the basement heating. we had no problems with freezing inside, and our 100 lb propane tank lasted the entire season. (Memphis, TN and we had temps in the 20's off and on from Nov. to Late Feb. Love the ceramics, but would consider the Hydronic system in the future.
Thanks Bob! Sounds like the weather you had was similar to what we experienced during the winter in the Lower Mainland of British Columbia. We'd also want hydronic heat in any future RV. We're actually spending this winter in a cold climate again.... but on a 30-amp site. We want to run completely off electric for the winter (propane is hard to get where we'll be), and we're making a modification to our RV to make it a lot easier. We've got a 2-part video all about our secret plan coming up in December. Stay tuned! ;-)
Great video, very helpful for a potential full-time RVer.
It's amazing no one is making a pellet stove furnace for RV's. I would rather heat with wood pellets.
I agree my dad used the corn burner to heat his condo.
There are marine wood stoves that burn wood or pellets depending upon the model. If installed and operated properly they're just as safe in an RV as they are on a boat. You put a convection fan on top of it like they use on the full size wood cook stoves to circulate the air without the need for any electricity at all.
oil filled portable heater, smaller than one in a house along with a fan running through it works great
While I have a furnace, electric space heater and a Mr. Buddy Heater, I like the small Big Heat electric the best.
Great information, pros and cons. On the portable propane heaters, deemed safe by so many......Folks do not turn up to high heat, at the same time close up your RV tight. They produce a flame= carbon monoxide....and if safe enough to go to sleep with it on, why the need for detectors ? Too iffy for me to trust. Sleeping bags work great ! Thanks !
Everyone must decide what they are comfortable with, Julio. Sleeping bags are a great alternative.
We camp in a Hybrid in early spring and late fall. A 120 volt space heater, electric mattresses, and extra blankets, and if needed, supplemented by the furnace, is how we camp. It can get below freezing here in New England during that time.
Electric mattress pads rock! Like sliding into a toaster on a cold night. :)
I haven't gone south for winter since my wife has been gone but this will probably be the year I go back.
We always try to live by the saying: "Winter is a choice"
+RVgeeks I do enjoy the activities that winter brings like snowmobiling and hot tubs on snow filled patios up In the air. But I think I'll be down south this winter. Or will I be at one of them Big 4 parks like you went to down under ? who knows
Randy Bobandy
Yaaay Big 4! :)
+RVgeeks You doing that trip next year too?
Randy Bobandy
Next time we go down under, might be RVing in New Zealand. But gotta save up first, so not next year. That month-and-a-half added up!
I have used a cozy world propane heater for 10 years. I have never cracked a window And has never had a problem. I have it plumbed outside to a 7 gallon tank and it works great the only way to heat A trailer.
I bought a Dyna Glo 30,000 BTU vent-less propane heater and installed it about a month ago. I also installed a custom blower motor. I plumbed the heater directly to my main propane line. Fittings and gas line connection hose with shut off valve was expensive but worth it. The unit is controlled by thermostat and it also has a oxygen depletion sensor (ODS) for safety which will turn the unit off if it detects low level of oxygen. I don't get head aches or anything like the Nay Sayers project. It heats up my 35' fifth wheel really fast and a 40lb. tank or 9 gal bottle will last 5 or 6 days depending on the weather. The main draw back is the condensation build up but I use a dehumidifier which cancels out the effect. The main reason I bought it was that I only have one furnace which is located forward of the RV and the living room gets cold. The furnace was working full time and using a hell of a lot of propane. I'm warm and happy now.
Sounds like you have a similar set-up to ours, and we love it, too. :)
I live on property in my rv. I have a small woodstove and I love it! My only problem is the wind blowing the smoke back into the rv, but that does not happen all the time. I need to get a cap for the outside pipe and hopefully that will help.
We know that in very windy areas, like along the Oregon coast, the chimneys on every house have a little device on top that prevent the strong winds from blowing smoke into the house. One of those might be just what you need.
I went to the ER for camping with the Mr. Buddy Portable model. Was deathly sick for a week.
You forgot to have proper ventilation?
heat pumps are apparently more efficient than space heaters apparently
for one kw used a space heater produces 1 kw of heat, but a heatpump can produce 3 to 4
so indeed depends of the moment, and availability what heatsource is most appropriate
Use the electric heater to allow you to lower the furnace temperature. All electric heaters are required to have tip over protection, whether they advertise it as a feature or not
+Arthur Lapalme Got our trusty space heater going right now! 😊
I live in a rv i use a mr heater there beter than elictric got my furness disconected. Been useing it 4 years
when you have a diesel rv take webasto diesel heater the best and cheap to use
I really like diesel heaters but they do require a decent amount of maintenance to keep them working properly. Know how to maintain and fix one before you buy.
Here in Southern NH we can get a lot of snow.You loose a lot of heat through the roof. Heating an RV and allowing it to cool off can cause water from melting snow to back up, if your roof is not in perfect shape.Also the weight of snow is a consideration and roof will need to be cleared.
+Arthur Lapalme Thanks for adding more valuable info to the conversation, Arthur!
yes we run a Alde warm water heating system in the new rigg, it heats thru out, equal, all lines and tanks heated, no fans at all, runs with pump ( solar and Batt) and an Propane or El hook up (3amps) big downside, slow heat up time or response, my previous carado with Propane furnace n fan,,made a rigg warm W/I 15 min...water heating can take hours
We have a 110v Oil filled radiator that we use to subsidize heat when running on shore power in our 33ft trailer. BTW love your videos!
We borrowed one of those from a friend once, and it was awesome! If they weren't a little on the large side (for us space-challenged full-timers), we would have bought one. Thanks for adding that into the mix!
You can get oil filled radiators in different sizes; large, medium and really small. Mine's a medium.
Add a down-filled quilt to your bed and you'll stay really cozy.
Jon
JonTanOsb Thanks Jon! We borrowed one of those oil-filled radiators from friends when we spent a winter on their site, and it was awesome! The only problem for us, as full-timers, is the amount of space they take up in the basement when not being used most of the year (we didn't know they made really small ones, and will have to look into that). We've got the down comforter though (along with flannel sheets, fleece blanket an electric mattress pad! :-D
run a fan through the oil filled heater --my fav way of heating ! (sustained heat
Nice!
Hate to break it to you: if you die you will not wake up.LOL!! Not a fan of un-vented propane. I need major heat, that does not use electric, so I went w/ a Williams VENTED propane house heater. I found an RV repair guy that used to do home heating and so he did the modifications for RV. Happy with it, except for one issue the heater in the main room sends all the heat up up up and so the ceiling bakes, along w/ the 5th wheel bedroom-have to leave the bath door open to block the hall, but then the bath gets the heat too. Up side is: do not need to run the other furnace to get the bedroom warm. I am very allergic to cold, so the large unit is good, for most they may want to go w/ a lower BTU or not. RVs are not known for good insulation.LOL I looked into the Dickenson marine heater also, but it had a very poor BTU punch.
If you have roof top ac units you can set those to fan only to circulate the heat but it does use electric
If your OEM roof top A/C breaks down, just replace it with a window unit. My 31' TT came with one 15K A/C unit. I RV in the desert SW. To add a second A/C unit would have cost me close to $1800. I went with two window (15K) units for $170 each from Lowes. With extra wiring, breakers, and plugs, my out of pocket was $400. We don't use our OEM roof top unit hardly at all anymore. .
That's why I just supposed to get extra solar panel install. and get a portable windmill add it to your supply unit for boondocking.
Great video, thanks. If you get a chance, I would like your thoughts on the "Cheap Heat" system if you are familiar with it. Thanks again, enjoy your videos, they are very informative and helpful.
Hi Jeff. We've heard of, and casually looked over, the "Cheap Heat" system before... and it looks like a really interesting option. But since our air conditioners are also heat pumps, we haven't had as much impetus to look further into the "Cheap Heat" unit for our own coach. We're also not sure we'd have the room to install it inline with our existing Suburban propane furnace, since we narrowed that area down when our residential fridge was installed. We had also figured that since our RV only has the one furnace, we'd need the more powerful "Cheap Heat" units that require 50-amp service to operate. But with their new "Two Stage Kit", that allows the unit to operate at lower power draw when hooked to 30-amp service, it might be more compelling!
I like all hose ideas, more about the electric space heater, but im gonna try an oil heater this year. I remember using one in a small room once and we had to turn it down cuz it would get the room too warm.
Have you tried a portable radiator yet?
@@rodgraham8688 yah that's what I call my oil heater or portable radiator. It works really good and saves on the electric bill!
@@hammbone82 thank you! Have a great day!
Thanx, this video game me something to think about since I am going to be in it in the cold winter.
+zartan We're wintering in the Desert SW, but it still gets cold at night. ;-)
Me and my wife are deaf and live in 5th wheel and we have two toddlers what the safest options ???
Love the video, it has made our decision to find an rv with an aquahot system. Thank you so much. Keep up the great work.
Carol&Thomas
CT-Travels
new subscriber. Thanks for the info. This video is very well made. ☺😎👍👍👍👍👍
+Louie H. Thanks Louie! Glad you liked it.
Another great video, might want ad a short discussion on the cop of your rooftop air conditioners/ heat pumps as an advantage. Typical rooftop unit will have a COP of three ish with some of the best units at 4
Thanks Richard! Great point. One factor is that daily and weekly stays virtually always include electricity. So it's a no-brainer for us that a 45- or 50-night during a short stay will always get warmed up using heat pumps, since propane is NEVER free! Of course when it drops below about 40F, heat pumps are no longer an option.
I got a small 22 foot bumper pull. We use a small space heater and works great for us.
Excellent! We have a couple of portable electric heaters too (at 43', we need two) that we love. We'll actually be doing a follow-up video to this next month, where we show how we're adding the ability to skew more toward electric heat than propane when desired. Stay tuned! :)
RVgeeks my problem is we are part of a resort system. I have a dilemma to consider. We are allowed to stay for 2 weeks at a time and must leave for at least 1 week before we can come back. I want to keep going through the winter but that week that we are not able to use it is completely cut off from power, water ECT. I think I need to go ahead and winterize my camper and put it into storage until winter is over. What do you think?
Since you mentioned your space heater, I assume you're in a cold climate? If so, it's probably a bit of a challenge to stay on board in the winter in the first place, due to the potential for exposed plumbing underneath, less insulation in the walls, etc. But trying to dry camp when conditions get down to near or below freezing is a real challenge, even for us highly-insulated diesel pusher types. We've spent lots of time dry camping, and lots of time in winter conditions, but rarely both simultaneously. The few times we've been in sub-freezing conditions without power is in transit, when stopping for the night in a Wal-Mart lot (usually on our way to somewhere warm)!
We'd suggest that you either find a back-up park with (at least) a power hook-up for each of those weeks that you'll need to be out of your membership park, or winterize and store the RV... or head south if that's an option for you (doesn't sound like it is though). Personally, we can't imagine spending a week dry camping in a travel trailer in winter conditions. If you DO find another park nearby for those weeks you need to be away from your member park, there's also the issue of having to move your rig twice every three weeks, which could be a problem if you get much snow where you are.
I live full time in RV on the coast of BC Canada.. we do not have extreme cold winters like most of the province does but we have cold and tons of rain in fall winter and spring.. I have a propane heater (looks exactly like white one in video at 6:00) it works good to produce heat, it's quiet and pretty fuel efficient.. HOWEVER, it produces tons of moisture, it is only has two temperature production rates.. a) one of two burners.. b) both burners.. usually it gets too hot and needs to be turned to one burner or no burner... there is no thermometer rate to set it to.. there is no fan so there is no real distribution of heat around the RV.. some spots can be too hot and other spots are close to freezing at same time so I need to run a fan anyway.. even when I open window for ventilation is still makes an un-natural smell of air.. not nasty but you can tell right away that it is running.. I do not feel safe sleeping at with it on so I turn it off at bed time and RV is cold in morning.. I do not feel safe leaving it on while I go to work or play so when I get back in RV it's cold too...
I'm ordering a "PROPEX 2800".. it runs on propane, is heat exchange type where exhaust is sent out side, it has fan to distribute heat in RV, it runs on thermostat so temp can be set, it is safe to run 24/7 so my RV will be the temp I want all day, all night... and most important it will not cause so much moisture in my RV.. that is my #1 problem with the heater I have.. condensation in my RV is worst problem...
+MrMeanderthal We’ve seem more people talking about Propex units and they look like an interesting option for a more permanent installation. Let us know how you like it.
ok.. I use it for a month or so and then let you know how it's working..
I really want to fit a hydronic heater to my skoolie I’m building, gets very cold here and will be full time living parked
Newer models have electric fireplaces in them. Pretty affect in keeping the propane off for the most part.
We’d love that! A bit much to retrofit though. Time for a new RV? 😉
You commonly find that one person who wants to turn the heat up to 95 while others are more comfortable at 65. In this case I resolved the matter with a 12volt electric blanket since she was sitting near the TV (12 volt outlet) most of the time anyway. Running the thermostat up even a single degree reduces the life of the propane cylinders. I also increased my original twin 30lbs to 40lbs and where at 19 degrees (here in Tennessee) the 30s would last 3 weeks the 40s ran 4-5 weeks. By adding electric fireplaces I was able to turn the 4-5 weeks into 6 months even though the electric bill did go up. Another CON to electric fireplaces is that mechanical chain driven sound that can trudge nauseatingly throughout the night (on cheap models).
+Me Here Great idea to cover the colder person with an electric blanket! Levels the playing field in the thermostat wars. LOL
+RVgeeks Alternatively an electric mattress pad I have found to be better than an electric blanket as the heat comes from below you , and warms the mattress as well. Of course using either would require shore power or generator use as both are 110 volt ac only as far as I know .
A good question would be could an inverter handle the load and if so would batteries last an evening ? I realize there are lots of variables .
heartland96a We LOVE our electric mattress pad, and it pulls such a tiny amount of power that we can easily run it off our battery bank (through the inverter of course, since it's 110-volt) when dry camping. We generally only use it to pre-heat and then shut it off once inn bed, but we could probably leave it on all night without noticeable effect on the batteries, as they weren't too low to start with.
That's great , wasn't sure if I was suggesting something positive or not .Yes the pre-heat alone is awesome you don't expend body heat just to get warm enough to then sleep.
If your RV has two bedrooms and the man and woman sleep apart because of the difference in temperatures that they must sleep with can receive a fairly good nights sleep with a dual zone (or individual) heat pumps (permitting it is not above or below) the operating parameters of the units.
Very informative. Thanks guys.
how about efficient wood burning ( solid fuel ) stoves made for boats?
+327h Haven't tried that one!
we live in Florida and we cannot keep our rv cool with 2 acs lol its 35 foot... maybe i need a new one ..
FL in the summer in an RV must be brutal. Maybe instead of a new RV, you might need a new location! ;-)
ya its too hot here for sure.. we need a new rv with 3 acs lol or we need to sell our home and move north some lol your right..
Are there actual DETECTORS that say carbon mono & propane detectors? ... I have Mr Buddy Heaters for emergency at home, but have struggled to find the right kind of detectors.
***** I actually called Mr Heater & they told me carbon dioxide detectors won't detect propane, for what it's worth.
They won't detect propane, but they will detect carbon monoxide. That's why every RV is equipped with both.... a smoke/CO detector on the ceiling and a propane detector on the wall, low down near the floor, since propane is heavier than air.
as a licensed plumber and gas Journeyman, Please never use the Blueflame ones only use the infrared models which are 98%+ efficient. you will not get a headache but dryed out if no ventilation. the blueflame with the glass panel in front have flames and will cause a headache , which is co. always ventilate, always have the proper detectors and make sure the batteries are on your checklist each month. ty
+John Meyer Do you play guitar to ? :)
i am a newb still. I want to and will eventually work on starting again. Life demanded I get rid of stuff during trying times.
+John Meyer Are the catalytic infrared and ceramic infrared both good?
I know the Infrared are great, I have never used a catalytic, Ill do some research and hollar back. A note to remember reference ANY heater especially gas. AIR EXCHANGE! Any heater which uses gas needs oxygen and you need fresh air exchange in the coach. Please make sure you have some sort of air exchange to keep fresh air in and old air out. some like me have a roof vent in front pulling air IN and a vent in rear pushing air out. it does well. Have a great day and " Keep Traveling"
from what I see there isn't alot of difference between the Catalytic and Infrared-they appear to operate the same and the Effiency rating is excellent. The cost however appears higher where the catalytic ones are concerned. I'll check back if I find out more information from users with them. "Keep Traveling"
I've watched several conversion videos of box style ambulances that in most cases have AC and heat (diesel) installed.
Obviously if you're buying new, need more room and/or don't plan on going off road (far) then your options are good.
On the other hand, if you're updating a large RV (class A) you may be able to find these units in wrecked ambulances and adapt them to your rig?
Many/most ambulances use engine coolant for heat.
Here in Europe we have calor gas pans and it heats water circulation system and radiators all around the van. Or we have gas pan witch warmed air . Circulation water radiator system is silent and really great system and can be used on camping areas or anywhere. But it sure needs 12volt for circulation bump. But amps are so low that it can be used many days without loading batteries. Air heating keeps little more noise but ain't too loud. And we have also Webasto heaters which use diesel or gasoline, but it takes more electric power of batteries so it needs loading more often. You guys have much better vans there in usa like 5th wheel RV s . And I guess that you don't have cassette toilet talk etc. witch are pain in ass because it needs pull out and walk to closet to have it empty. Also you have much more fresh water in your motor homes and caravans etc. Reason for this difference is basically one reason. Our driver license classes are so much different than yours. Class A B is basically only cars and trucks under 3500kg ( about 7 K bound) and if you are not professional truck driver you only have that driver license here. So because of making these RVs and trailer vans for masses of average driver license holders manufacturers need to keep weight down. I personally would want to have fifth wheel RV but those are with electric brakes and are not in law here in Europe. Only one company has patented electronic brakes in Europe and they have done it so well that it is highly impossible to have registered any USA fifth wheel RV here without that company's axels . And they have overpriced those axels all ready. I really hope that it'll gonna change some day, but that same thing I have hope many years already.......
Espar heaters and Wabesto heaters work great also. Those are diesel bunk heaters for semi trucks and personally I prefer espar heaters because it's a little smaller than a shoe box and puts out lots of heat and uses very little current draw and very little diesel
Thanks Patrick! We’ve heard lots of good things about those heaters.
I retired from trucking due to PsA in 2017. I lived in my tractor on the road for weeks at a time. Last one was a 2009 model. Ordered it with a small espar unit. Loved it and have spent many nights in -20° running it. NEVER got cold. There are many portable units in use now in Europe that use the same technology. Also, when I replaced the furnace in my house, I reinstalled another heating oil furnace. Best heat there is. Even in today's fuel fiasco market. In my 18 foot BH camper I use the atwood 20k propane furnace that I have tuned up each season and a couple fan forced portable electrics. The combination keeps it just toasty.
this is my first year in a travel trailer, we are looking at different systems. I am more than likely going to restore my trailer and will more than likely keep the propane furnace, but I am as looking in the use of bunk heaters in certain areas, but before I go and buy a kit I want to see if it is feasible. a second opinion is solar panels on the roof so I can run a couple space heaters. right now I am hook up to a 30 amp service but when I run a second space heater I fear that the fuses will trip, so we see I am more worried about the police giving me a hard time then the heat
Hi Elizabeth. Congratulation on your first year! We're sorry to report that running a space heater off solar isn't really practical for several reasons. First, anything that produces heat from electricity uses a lot of power.... more than would likely be produced by anything less than a lot of panels and a large battery bank to go with it. Very expensive. Second, since heat is most needed in the winter, when days are shorter and the sun stays lower in the sky, that reduces the amount of solar power when it's needed most, especially since it's coldest at night, when zero solar is available.
When electric power is limited, propane or diesel is generally the best option. But since diesel most commonly comes in the form of an expensive and complex hydronic heating system (which is generally available as an option on expensive Class A motorhomes), it's probably not practical (or inexpensive) to retrofit.
That leaves portable propane heaters like the one we featured in the video as one of the best options for getting heat when electric power is limited. One of the most popular brands for RVers is a Mr. Heater Buddy, like this one: amzn.to/2egFM5f
Hope this helps!
Did you ever upgrade your carrier air conditioners heat pumps I am having to do that myself now on my 40 foot Demond Astoria had some questions the new units are furion
Hi Paul. Our Newmar came with two Dometic AC/heat pumps, which we replaced with identical new ones a few years ago. Ours was super simple due to our replacing with the identical units.
@@RVgeeks Thank you for replying
Was looking at buying two Furion Ac but I think I might have to run wires through my ceiling since they were WIRELESS before Have a great day and thank you again
Hi RVgeeks, very helpful video except in one key area for me. Why did you not address wood stoves, such as the Kimberly or Cubic Mini that a lot of full timers and boondockers are installing?
+David Spittler Never heard of them, David!
Time to learn something new, guys! I've only heard of them recently myself, but I was wondering why you hadn't included them.
My favorite way to heat is with the factory installed unit. I have 2 batteries, so I've never had the 12 volt go out overnight. If the solar isn't keeping up I do have to run the generator a few hours a day to keep the 12 volt charged but that's about it. I also have an electric space heater to reduce propane use when there is shore power. It's not enough to heat the RV, but by having it throw out 10,000 btu more or less constantly it can significantly reduce the amount of time the house heater runs.
I would never use a propane portable heater like a Heat Buddy inside, for several reasons. First, even if you can be sure you are venting properly, the green propane canisters are high pressure and should not be used indoors, in case there is a leak. You can go from safe to explosive very quickly. Second, they are very expensive to run on the canisters. The green canisters are typically about 4 times as much money for a given amount of propane as a refillable 20 or 30 lb tank. Third, they aren't that much more efficient than the house heater, which on modern units are typically induced flame so about 80% efficient. There is no way the extra 20% you might get from a catalytic heater overcomes the way higher cost of green bottles and the fact you need to leave a window open. So the only advantage they offer is they don't need 12 volt power.
You mentioned that your catalytic heater is warm like a fireplace, and that is another way some RV's can be heated, a propane fireplace, although I don't have one. I do have a natural gas fireplace in my house and it can be run either with or without the fan, although it is more efficient with the fan. I assume RV gas fireplaces are the same.
I've also seen some brave souls install small wood stoves in their RV. However that looks like too much hassle and takes up too much space to me. And firewood isn't always readily available. If you have to buy it at the store in those little packages it's more expensive than propane.
So in my opinion the best option for most people is to just use the house heater that came with the RV, buy an extra battery so you have at least 2, and add a small electric space heater for when you have shore power. A gas fireplace can also be nice if your RV happens to have one. Everything else is either too expensive to run, dangerous, or a hassle.
Hi Art. While we do a lot of boondocking, we have a number of friends who are even more serious about it than we are, spending much, or all, of most winters out in the AZ desert. The reason that Kozy World heaters are so popular (most of us have them) is because when there is no shore power available, a space heater isn't workable, and the house heater that the RV came with (on-board propane furnace) blasts through propane like there's no tomorrow. Portable propane heaters absolutely rock, providing intense heat while sipping such a small amount of propane that it's amazing. The key is to have a port installed in the RV that allows you to forego the expensive and annoying little gas cylinders and connect directly to the on-board propane tank. People line up to get the shops in Quartzsite to install those ports, but once they're in, the winter dry camping experience is transformed. We can speak from experience - before and after having one - winter boondocking using an on-board furnace vs a portable (Kozy, Buddy, etc) is like night and day. We would never go back. They use ZERO power, sip propane, and having to crack a window is no problem, since the heat they put out is so great, it more than makes up for it. Of course when there IS power available, that's a whole different situation, and electric space heaters are awesome. But there are many choices out there, and as my mother would say: "That's why they make vanilla and chocolate!" 😊
I could see it being a good option if you are using the RV propane and only heating part of the RV. It's the cost of those little green bottles that put me off. You can easily heat the whole RV with the house heater for the same cost! (But you do need 12 volt as well.) I suppose for people who spend enough time winter boon docking getting a connection installed for it would be worth while because it's more flexible and doesn't drain the batteries. I put my RV away when the snow flies. Around here (Canada, fuel is quite expensive compared to the US so I don't even run the BBQ on green bottles if I'm going to be in one spot for any length of time. The bottles are $4 each, whereas it's about a buck a pound to fill a $30 lb tank, less at Costco, so the bottles are 4 times as much. It's the disposable steel bottle you are paying for, plus it's a retail item. You have that solved with your hose but I think that would be the only way it makes sense. That's probably why the installation is so popular with the people you know, that hose will pay for itself pretty quickly.
Hi Guys, If you were getting a new DP what system/setup would you get? What brand of Hydronic system? Heard Aqua-Hot is costly to maintain & repair. Maybe all brands are. Would you go all electric? Hard to beat propane. Be interesting to compare cost of fuels. Thx!!
We would go hands down with the diesel Oasis hydronic system. Heard lots of great things about it, and diesel has many times the BTUs as an equivalent amount of propane. And of course we carry lots of it on board. 😉
@@RVgeeks So all electric? Thx!
Well... not necessarily, as we love a gas stove and wouldn’t want to have to give that up. We know that lots of people love electric, induction cooktops. But we haven’t used one, so can’t say. So we’d have to say we want a “mostly electric” RV. 😉
@@RVgeeks Yes I like cooking with gas too! BTUs. Yes diesel has higher BTU #. But propane is cheaper. Have to figure out cost per BTU. BTW, Does anybody have a website that follows motorhome trends, industry? Thx!!
@@MililaniJag All electric is great if you will always have shore power but what about when you are traveling or parked someplace without shore power? You have to fire up the generator 100% of the time while heating. Not a great choice to listen to that all night. Some form of flame works best over the long haul. We also agree the propane stove and oven is best for the kitchen vs. electric and having the generator run when not around shore power. Some say, "What's the point of boondocking if you have to use that generator often". There are lots of options however, folks simply have to know that any kind of flame inside an RV will require a point of entry for fresh air to come inside and only enough to prevent CO issues so you aren't losing all of the heat generated.
No idea why manufacturers don't, at least, offer supplemental coach heaters that warm by using engine coolant. It's basically free heat while driving, only takes a little extra plumbing and can be plumbed into the existing ductwork. It would take a DIYer a day or so to install one. They can be found at speed shops, truck shops, Amazon, eBay... Ambitious types could also add/build a water heater that's heated by engine coolant as well (it isn't rocket science afterall, just a pipe passing through a five gallon metal bucket with a thermo-valve controlling how hot it gets.) Pull over at the end of the day, stretch out for a bit, take a hot shower...
Hi Guys,
I have a question for you, hopefully you might know about this...
Have you ever compared a Kozy World propane heater to a Mr. Buddy propane heater?
Do they operate and produce heat in the same way? I believe they both can be plumbed into an RV propane system so I'm wondering if either one offers any advantage in cooler weather. Thank you!
Hi Rick! We don't have personal experience with Mr. Buddy, but we know they're very popular and well-rated, and we believe them to be about equivalent. We're pretty sure the Big Buddy ( amzn.to/2eYKDDz ) is closer to ours in output. It includes an O2 depletion sensor (like ours) and a tip-over switch (which ours does not, but we have no kids or pets so don't care).
Ours does have a thermostatic control, vs the Mr. Heater only having a low, med and high setting. Both can be plumbed into the RV the same way, Ours seems to come in and out of availability, and is currently available on Amazon for quite a bit more than we paid for it: amzn.to/2ff9XpW
The new model from Kozy World that's about to come out to replace ours is also expensive ( amzn.to/2gfvX8a ) and it's not available yet. And both Kozy World heaters require the purchase of legs to use them freestanding on the floor vs wall mounted.
We're very happy with out heater, but based on the current pricing, we'd almost certainly give the Mr. Heater a shot if we were shopping for one today. Looks as though a lot of people are very happy with them. One thing we saw is that the Big Buddy is supposedly only effective to about 7,000' elevation.
Hope this all helps! :)
Thanks Guys.
Down here in Australia I have seen adds about diesel heaters. Have you checked them out yet?
We didn't see anything about them while we were in Australia last year, but we assume they bear some similarity to Aqua-Hot systems in North America.
This comment actually goes to a different video that you guys did a while back when you guys made that water hose and tried to keep it from freezing you know I was coming around on Amazon couple of months ago well within the within a month and they actually make this water hose that's fully insulated and has one of those heat tape things built into it if you guys ever decide to to go camping in the winter time again you guys should consider getting one it's a really nice
+sherman lassche We know about those, but the only ones we’ve seen were crazy expensive!
RVgeeks is that the blue one on Amazon
+sherman lassche That’s one of them, Sherman. We’ve also seen another brand that’s also very expensive. We used heat tape because it’s so cheap and does the same thing (although maybe not quite as elegantly). 😉
RVgeeks yeah I guess you guys are right a hundred 70 bucks for a hose is kind of expensive and it's only 4:25 ft I thought it was a little longer then they had this other one that was 40 feet but it was right at $100 I think it's on sale to red one but the video was pretty good I like that video I don't know if I'm how is that drinking water thing doing did you guys ever get one of those tester things and test the water going in and out see exactly how well it's working yes I was the one who made that comment
Our Acuva water purifier is working great! We never thought about how cavalier we were about drinking directly from the fresh water tank until now. Even though the fresh tank is sanitized, we love knowing that we're totally protected now. :)
Wow, you guys are pro AF. Nice!
AF!! LOL We'll take it. Thanks! :)
One will "wake-up dead" from using a propane space heater...how does that work exactly?
One question with your propane heater. Does it work fine at high altitudes? The best rated on Amazon says it will not perform well above 7,000, but many of the parks I want to visit are more around 8,500. Would appreciate your input on its performance. (Also the model name if you don't mind)
+Britain Reynolds Hi Britain! Sorry we can't say firsthand how well our heater works at altitude. We spend most winters in the Desert SW, which is where it gets most of its use while we're boondocking in the desert. We have heard that some heaters don't work well at altitude, so we'd have to defer to the manufacturers specs and instructions. Our Kozy World model is the KWP-122: www.worldmkting.com/wall-heater-8
Hi! I used a little buddy heater for a couple seasons but found that at elevations above 7500 feet (alike Great Sand dunes National Park) it was hard to get it to stay lit and not shut down (due to the high elevation thinner air). We changed it a catalytic heater called the Wave 3 and it works great!
Very useful info! Thanks!
You forgot heat strips in newer roof AC units.
I tried to run two space heaters in our 30 foot Class C Rv when we got caught in cold winter weather. One was an infrared space heater for the living room are and the other was a small ceramic heater for the bedroom. Unfortunately, trying to run them both at the same time kept popping the circuit breaker in the RV. So we were only able to use the infrared heater in the living room. Any ideas on why we can't run both the heaters at the same time? Your video indicated that we should be able to with our 30 amp hookup. Thanks for the informative videos!
30 amps should be enough to run two space heaters, but not much else. You'll need to make sure that virtually all other loads of any size are turned off (that doens't include very small draws, such as the water pump, a few lights, etc... just no other big draws... such as water heater and fridge, which should both be set to propane mode). You'll also want to be sure to plug the heaters into outlets that are on different circuits. If you were to plug them into the same outlet at the same time (or into outlets that are on the same ciurcuit breaker), that would likely trip that specific breaker. If ALL of your electric outlets in the RV run off the same circuit breaker, that may indeed prevent you from using both at once. Hope this helps!
Only problem with catalytic heaters is it will roast you till well done in an hour. You will be oblivious to outside temperature.
Love my hydronic heater.
IM LEARNING THE BEST SOLUTION IS TO HEAD SOUTH BUT JUST COULDNT UP AND GO BEING A NEWBIE. IM IN A 2004 BOUNDER 35R WHICH THE FURNACE HEATS THE BASEMENT THANKFULLY. I PUT AN EXTEND A STAY TEE ON MY PROPANE SYSTEM. AND USE A SMALL DUAL WATT CERAMIC FOR ABOVE FREEZING BELOW FREEZING I HAVE TO USE THE FURNACE OR FROZEN PIPES. I MADE A HEATED DRINKING WATER HOSE WITH THE SELF REGULATING HEAT CABLE. NO CAMPGROUNDS OPEN IN THE MID ATLANTIC AREA. HOPING TO GET A WORK CAMPING POSITION WITH AN OUTFIT THAT HAS MULTIPLE LOCATIONS SO NEXT OCTOBER I CAN HEAD TO A SOUTHERN LOCATION.
We started out RVing full-time in a 2002 Bounder, breaking free of the Mid-Atlantic region as well. So we wish you the best in getting out of there before next winter. In the meantime, it sounds like you're off to a great start managing your systems.
I HAVE A PROBLEM MAYBE YOU CAN GIVE ME SOME INSIGHT. I HAVE NO POWER GOING TO MY KIB 330 TANK MONITOR IN DASH NO PWER TO PROPANE ALARM NO PWER TO BUILT IN CO2 DETECTOR ALL FUSES ARE GOOD IN BCC. I BOUGHT A PLUG IN CO2. DETECTOR COACH BATTERYS ARE FULLY CHARGED AS WELL AS CHASIS BATTERY READS 13. VOLTS. IM CALLING FLEETWOOD ON MONDAY TO SEE IF THEY CAN GIVE ME THE LOCATION OF A GROUND WIRE FOR THOSE 3 DEVICES EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS BEAUTIFULLY. IVE PULLED AND CLEANED AND SPRAYED ALL BATTERY CABLES AND CONNECTIONS. JUST WONDERING IF I HAVE A DEAD SPOT ON THE INTELITECH BOARD. IF YOU CAN THINK OF SOMETHING I MISSED. THANK YOU
+Greg Wierzbicki The only thing we can think of that all of those circuits might have in common is the chassis battery disconnect. If you check in your engine compartment to make sure it's on, it would eliminate that as a possibility (assuming you have a gas rig, and that they have a main battery disconnect, like our diesels have). Barring that, a common ground could be it.
YES I HAVE THE 8.1 CHEVY ON WORKHORSE 22. THAT IS THE ONE THING I DIDNT CHECK BECAUSE I DISCONECTED THE NEGATIVE ON THE CHASIS BATTERY BECAUSE IVE BEEN SITTING FOR A MONTH NOW I PUT STABIL IN MY GAS TANK. THERES TWO BREAKERS IN THE BOTTOM OF THE BCC BOX IVE GOT TO TEST ALSO. I JUST DONT WANT TO PAY A MOBILE RV TECH UNTIL IVE CHECKED EVERYTHING POSSIBLE THAT I KNOW HOW TO CHECK.. IF I HAD ONE OR TWO TANK SENSORS OUT IT WOULD POSSIBLY BE A CONTACT WIRE ON THE TANK ITSELF. A NEW CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE KIB IS LIKE $36 BUT A WHOLE NEW INTELLITECH BOARD IS $389 AND THAT STUFF I CAN ORDER AND INSTALL MYSELF. I REALLY APPRECIATE YOU GETTING BACK TO ME SO QUICKLY ILL CHECK THOSE DISCONNECTS TOMORROW AND LET YOU KNOW MY PROGRESS. I MADE THE GRAVE MISTAKE OF NOT FLIPPING MY BYPASS ON THE WATER HEATER AND FRIED MY ELEMENT. THAT LITTLE COMPARTMENT UNDED THE WATER HEATER DOESNT GIVE YOU A BUNCH OF ROOM TO WORK. THATS MY NEXT PROJECT IS TO CHANGE OUT THAT ELEMENT. ITS A SCREW IN AND THATS GOING TO BE FUN, FUN, FUN...BUT SINCE I HAVE FULL 30 AMP POWER AND CITY WATER WHERE IM CAMPED UNTIL CASTAWAYS OPENS IN BERLIN. I HAVE A PHONE INTERVIEW SET UP WITH SUN COMMUNITIES FOR A MAINTENANCE TECH WORK CAMPER. SUN HAS 120 PROPERTIES IN FLORIDA ALONE SO THATS MY GOAL TO LAND A POSITION WITH THEM THEN I CAN BOUNCE BACK AND FORTH WITH THE SEASONS. THANKS AGAIN GUYS REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR TIME.
+Greg Wierzbicki Hey Greg. If your chassis batteries are still disconnected, we're guessing there's a good chance that's your problem. Good luck with it!
wish i knew about that hydronic system. I imagine you set it up almost like you would boiler heat? We dont live in the rv anymore so too late now to get one. ps. got a 40' for sale lol
They are indeed like a boiler. But hydronic heat systems have to come from the factory. They're so deeply embedded into the structure of an RV, I can't imagine anyone adding it in later.
Oh no
Furnace fan in my cabover draws too much power to be remotely phesable. Thats with 3 deep cycles and solar.
Great info! Thanks for sharing.
RV living allows the owners to move to improve the climate they have to live in. THAT is the true answer for heating and cooling an RV.
We go south almost every winter, so we do agree with you. But sometime there are reasons to stay north, like family, etc. We're headed south right now... late! LOL Our motto is "Winter is a Choice." :)
Except some of us love the cold weather. I love to take my travel trailer up into the local mountains and stay where the snow is. I enjoy the absolute silence when it’s snowing (no wind) while having my morning cup of coffee.
Spending a week or two like that calms me so completely that I cannot find the words to describe it.
Question: I just purchased a new fifth wheel with a heat pump. It feels like it's just blowing air around and isn't warm at all. I've heard that the heat pumps don't put out a lot of heat. How do I know if it's broken or just doesn't heat very well? My dealer is a hour away or else I would just take it by there.
Hi Tyler! Heat pumps generally only work down to about 40 degrees (outside temperature). Below that, they can't pull enough heat out of the air to work. If you're trying to use them this time of year in a cold climate, that could certainly be the problem. The odds of a new RV having heat pumps that don't work is unlikely (although certainly possible). The easiest and cheapest way to test is to wait for a day when it's 45-50 degrees outside and try them then. Hopefully you're not in Minnesota though! ;-)
One other thing... if you try running the A/C, does it blow icy cold? If so, the coolant is probably okay. Of course if it's 10 degrees outside, you might get icy cold air anyway.
If you do get that warmer day to test, it might take a bit fore the air to blow warm. Heat pumps start blowing immediately, even before the air warms up, so you might have to wait a bit before cool air becomes warm air. Hope this helps a bit.
Luckily I live in Georgia we almost never see 10 degrees. When I tried it the first time it was 60 degrees out side and the rv temp didn't change temperature after 20 minutes. I just tried it again tonight with it about 68 degrees outside (you read that right). It was 70 in the RV. Thermostat set on 75 Came back after 20 minutes and it was 69 degrees. It actually went down. I am running a 13K ac off of a 15amp household amp. Maybe it doesn't have enough power but I figured if it didn't have enough power it would just trip the breaker. The AC ran fine.
If it ran fine in AC mode... it should've run in Heat Pump mode, too. Sounds like the reversing valve might be stuck. We assume you're under warranty, since it's new? Sorry to say it looks like you'll need to make that hour trip for warranty work. Maybe you could combine it with a nice weekend road trip... to make it worthwhile?
On the 15amp breaker... it's true that it would have tripped the breaker if the heat pump needed more than 15amps. But be careful... relying on the breaker to protect you when using more than it's rated for could lead to trouble. 15 amps is probably just enough to run the air conditioner/heat pump... so if anything else was running (like the battery charger or water heater on electric), it could easily pull more than 15 amps. So you'll want to be sure everything else is shut off.
Our heat pump worked just fine while in NY during 5F outside temp, it kept the RV at a comfortable 74F inside. why do they say they are useless?
Heat pumps are the opposite of useless! They rock.... down to about 40F, at which point they won’t work. We love ours. The perfect heat source for fall weather when hooked up at an RV Park.
Can you recommend a portable propane heater with canister?
Michael... we haven't used one, but it seems like lots of people really like the Mr. Heater Buddy & Big Buddy units. You might want to check them out and see if they'll do what you need ( amzn.to/2Hch0js ). They use the small, disposable propane canisters.
Long time ago before I knew more about heat pumps I wanted to have one in my first RV just for the fact there electric. but after I did research around that time, I changed mind completely. Due to the power requirements, and the 40' Useless limits. Honestly My own space heaters just one not even set on high keeps mine in the 70s when its around those temps. Real low temps both my space heaters keep it comfy. I also never put them on full blast ether. One is a standard 1500 watt when on full blast the other is just a 600 watt max.
The only parts I have worry about freezing are my waste tanks. The longest water line in the RV while not set up yet, I am gonna hook up an intake fan that pull in heat from the living space, So my water lines should stay above freezing, along with the outside fresh water hose being wrapped in heat tape.
Aside thinking about a more proper way to keep my waste tanks from freezing the heating in the living space is always comfy. And my Rigs a 27' Foot Class C, and a very old one at that so not really built with winter living in mind, but it stays nice inside during the winter. The summer has me bothered. The Roof AC Blower motor keeps leaking the 3 in 1 oil I keep putting in it. I need to either rebuild the motor put new seals in it or spend $100 on another motor, but do have a 2nd AC to cool the RV so Should still keep comfy summer or winter. All without complex systems that cost a lot, and Don't plan to do any boondocking unless absolutely necessary, and Then I plan to work on generating my own power and get a nicer Inverter in the future, no fuel generators or shore power.
But a nice video for those that are looking for methods other than my own.
Heat pumps are definitely not for real cold winter use, but great in spring and fall. Boondocking is the greatest.... and often free!
I have no doubts that boondocking could provide interesting times provided proper temps. And I would likely not even have a heater on. Spring and fall are the only times I am even comfy. I dun use heat or AC during those times. unless i have something on that puts out a lot heat like when cooking, a lot of electronics on or something.
but too cold, or too hot, i just get sick. so spring time and fall are my time. lol
So other than them times i would like to be able to control my environment. Which until i have my set up for self generating power all the way set up, boondocking wouldn't be my fav thing to do very often.
Very, informative I'm a first time rv'er, ,