It’s a pleasure to watch a real Sheetmetal man and a very good teacher. I just found your videos today. This is the third one I’ve checked out. Glad to see you have more, hope to watch them all. Thank you.
I have watched 43 of your videos and compiled them all in Notes on my iPad and iPhone. They are all excellent! Also have shared them with other potential Sheetmetal layout men. Your lesson of a drop cheek elbow is great. Will you be doing one on a transition elbow with slant throat? Like in Kaberlein - Triangulation Short Cut Layouts- plate 51. Since 1969, I have fabricated both types of elbows, but 100 more of as we call them “rising throat reverse elbows.”
It's my first time doing any sheet metal work, I have to transition an 8x20 base box opening to an 8x24 return feed as a vertical 90 yet FOB (bottom being the right side in this case). I have only a folding tool and a hand former. So I am trying to get my Pitts to go by hand. Should be a lot of fun! This video will be instrumental in my design calculations.
Well it looks like you got your work cut out for you for your first time doing any sheet-metal. But by the sounds of it you seem to have the dimensions, names and acronyms correct. Good luck you have nothing to lose except perhaps $20 worth of galvanize. 👍😀
Hi. Great videos. Thank you. I just recently found them. 1. Why wouldn't you add hashtags for your videos like #sheetmetal #ductwork #hvac so that others could find them easier? 2. There is 3 day sheetmetal fabrication workshops in US. Don't you have the similar here in Canada? Thanks
Wel done, i use the peewe tape for radius lengths too., Very few folks know trommel pionts, triangulation ,and all the good formulas for layout by hand Anymore...👍
Can you just account for your male end when triangulating, Instead of adding them to your points? So C would technically be at the Edge of your metal and B would be at 4”3/8s? Then after cutting out your elbow scribe off the edge 3/16”in on both heel and throat of the developed pattern?
@@The_Duter Hello Micheal, good question. Most of the time I’ve taken the time to scribe my allowances, more so for clarity. If I understood your question correctly you’re killing two birds with one stone, you are saving on layout time, meaning you’re faster :) But be careful, there will be times when the allowance should only be added after, ex transitions. Again great question.
@ can you please explain, what you mean with transitions? I do the same thing? It’s also seems easier with getting your cut sizes… if it’s 24x16 and needs to reduce to 16x16, FOB C/F. I just cut it 24.5”. Then on the working line on one end, find center and mark 16.5 out from that. Stomp shear it. Same with bottom. Figure the length of your sides with Pittsburg allowance. 18” in height at whatever length it is, and stomp shear it too. Make your Pittsburgh, notch, cross break, run thru locksformer. Ready for assembling.
@@The_Duter it’s hard for me to explain and difficult to prove with the 1/4 “ on the cheek that you mention above. Let’s just say it was a button / snap lock female is 1.25 inches. Using your method you would make the peace 26 1/2 wide then run it through the lock former which will take 1.25”. You would notice what I am talking about if this transition is fairly short. To make a long story short all the allowances should be added at a 90° angle to the fitting finished line. If you have time and are willing to watch one of my transition videos with 3 or 4 sides sloping, pay close attention to when I’m adding the female portion on transitional sides, you will notice that I am adding it at 90° and what happens if you don’t? it will rob a small amount of metal into the fitting, which for some is a minor detail. I sure hope I didn’t complicate things ?
You might wanna try this on a piece of paper. Let’s just say you are making a 6 to 4 transition 3 inches tall on centre and you want to add 1 inch Pittsburgh on each side now go ahead and do it your way and then if you don’t mind redraw that same transition and add the 1 inch to each side but 90° to your fitting lines and you will see that the Pittsburgh lock former has a complete 1 inch on my way and if you do it your way it’ll be less than 1 inch which the lock former will rob from the fitting
Yes Bradley, it is. The amount of drop may be different for both cheeks, depending on the drop of the top cheek and the width or depth of the duct. Great question! 👍
Great question! I’m in NB and we only have one training facility in this province, PEI comes to NB for their training. Rest assure, most provinces offer this trade. Pretty much all trade schools that teach Sheet Metal in Canada are going to follow the guidelines from the National SM curriculum/ course content and will be good. The reason being, it’s an apprenticeship trade and after completing the required hours which is approximately 7200 hours, you will be eligible to write the SM Red Seal Exam, and finally become a Journeyman/Journeyperson.
@@sheetmetalwork Thank you Duane, only seeing this reply now! I am about to layout and fabricate a 14x12 to 16x8" drop cheek 90 with a fish lock on the 14x12" side. This tutorial has been so helpful!
I agree with you👍 the scribed lines are very hard to see 🙈that’s why I have been using markers on my last videos. I guess I’m still trying to see what works best for video tutorials or more importantly make it easier to understand. I promise to try and make it clearer next time👍
It’s a pleasure to watch a real Sheetmetal man and a very good teacher. I just found your videos today. This is the third one I’ve checked out. Glad to see you have more, hope to watch them all. Thank you.
Thanks James, comments like yours do encourage me to make a few more :)
Thanks for the video. Haven’t made one of those in quite a while and this was a great reminder of how to do it. Cheers!!
Your welcome Dan.
This was so much better than using a book from the 70s. Thank you.
Don’t lose that book from the 70s, the theory and methods haven’t changed much. 😀
Thank you for taking you time to show us.
Im happy to hear that Minh, Im hoping to do more.
A true tin knocker. What you don’t want to be the magic marker mechanic? Punch and scribe is all I know. Nice work and I’m glad I found your channel.
Thanks Harry. By the sound of your comment, I’m pretty sure your work is nice and neat.
@@sheetmetalwork I use red pencil to mark holes on spiral
I have watched 43 of your videos and compiled them all in Notes on my iPad and iPhone. They are all excellent! Also have shared them with other potential Sheetmetal layout men. Your lesson of a drop cheek elbow is great. Will you be doing one on a transition elbow with slant throat? Like in Kaberlein - Triangulation Short Cut Layouts- plate 51. Since 1969, I have fabricated both types of elbows, but 100 more of as we call them “rising throat reverse elbows.”
Thanks for your comment James:) One of these days I just might find the time to demo the elbow in question. I really appreciate your comments. Duane
you still have these notes? im starting level 3 night in august but wanna start prepping now.
It's my first time doing any sheet metal work, I have to transition an 8x20 base box opening to an 8x24 return feed as a vertical 90 yet FOB (bottom being the right side in this case). I have only a folding tool and a hand former. So I am trying to get my Pitts to go by hand. Should be a lot of fun! This video will be instrumental in my design calculations.
Well it looks like you got your work cut out for you for your first time doing any sheet-metal. But by the sounds of it you seem to have the dimensions, names and acronyms correct. Good luck you have nothing to lose except perhaps $20 worth of galvanize. 👍😀
Hi. Great videos. Thank you. I just recently found them. 1. Why wouldn't you add hashtags for your videos like #sheetmetal #ductwork #hvac so that others could find them easier? 2. There is 3 day sheetmetal fabrication workshops in US. Don't you have the similar here in Canada? Thanks
Thanks hvacker, This stuff is all new to me and I’m not quite sure on how the Hashtag works. But I will look into it, Thanks!!!
Wel done, i use the peewe tape for radius lengths too., Very few folks know trommel pionts, triangulation ,and all the good formulas for layout by hand Anymore...👍
Thanks,,,,,,,Peewee tape doesn’t lie :)
Just multiply the whatever the radius is by 1.57 and you'll get a perfect answer in one second
@@sheetmetalwork eksik yada kolaykaştırılmış çizim gerçeği daha çok detaylı
Shouldn't there be some kinda flanges on the ends to hook up with ducting?
@@jackdelane 99% of the time yes. But for a new learner, less is more in the beginning.
What is that block you are using when forming the fitting when just racking the Pittsburgh down
Solid flat bar 1” x 1/2” x aprox 6” long
My i ask mr what gadge is this sheet 0,4mm or 0,5
@@PhineasMurinda .5
Could it be done with 24 gauge, or 18 g?
@@PhineasMurinda 24g
@@jackdelane 18 would need a different seam/lock
@@sheetmetalwork is it because it wouldn't roll properly for 18g? What would be the ideal seam for thicker gauges?
Can you just account for your male end when triangulating, Instead of adding them to your points? So C would technically be at the Edge of your metal and B would be at 4”3/8s? Then after cutting out your elbow scribe off the edge 3/16”in on both heel and throat of the developed pattern?
@@The_Duter Hello Micheal, good question. Most of the time I’ve taken the time to scribe my allowances, more so for clarity. If I understood your question correctly you’re killing two birds with one stone, you are saving on layout time, meaning you’re faster :) But be careful, there will be times when the allowance should only be added after, ex transitions. Again great question.
@ can you please explain, what you mean with transitions? I do the same thing? It’s also seems easier with getting your cut sizes… if it’s 24x16 and needs to reduce to 16x16, FOB C/F. I just cut it 24.5”. Then on the working line on one end, find center and mark 16.5 out from that. Stomp shear it. Same with bottom. Figure the length of your sides with Pittsburg allowance. 18” in height at whatever length it is, and stomp shear it too. Make your Pittsburgh, notch, cross break, run thru locksformer. Ready for assembling.
Btw just want to say thanks! No one here really to teach, and was thrown into it. Your videos have really help me progress these last 2 years.
@@The_Duter it’s hard for me to explain and difficult to prove with the 1/4 “ on the cheek that you mention above. Let’s just say it was a button / snap lock female is 1.25 inches. Using your method you would make the peace 26 1/2 wide then run it through the lock former which will take 1.25”. You would notice what I am talking about if this transition is fairly short. To make a long story short all the allowances should be added at a 90° angle to the fitting finished line. If you have time and are willing to watch one of my transition videos with 3 or 4 sides sloping, pay close attention to when I’m adding the female portion on transitional sides, you will notice that I am adding it at 90° and what happens if you don’t? it will rob a small amount of metal into the fitting, which for some is a minor detail.
I sure hope I didn’t complicate things ?
You might wanna try this on a piece of paper. Let’s just say you are making a 6 to 4 transition 3 inches tall on centre and you want to add 1 inch Pittsburgh on each side now go ahead and do it your way and then if you don’t mind redraw that same transition and add the 1 inch to each side but 90° to your fitting lines and you will see that the Pittsburgh lock former has a complete 1 inch on my way and if you do it your way it’ll be less than 1 inch which the lock former will rob from the fitting
Great video, is it the same process for a drop cheek reducing on both cheeks?
Yes Bradley, it is. The amount of drop may be different for both cheeks, depending on the drop of the top cheek and the width or depth of the duct. Great question! 👍
I see, so how do you find the length of the throat and heel, as you don’t have a flat cheek to measure around?
The lengths will comes from the cheek working view, which is the same as a flat cheek. Do you have any SM textbooks on hand? If so which one?
Yes I have a few Kaberlein books but they are sometimes quite confusing to follow. It’s a lot easier to follow along with your videos 👍
But how do you know at what angle to bend on the side of the knee?
Im sorry but there is no knee mentioned in this video 🦵🏻. If so, what minute and second?
Ido! Question... In finding the throat radius and heel radius where did you get the lenght setting of your compass. Thanks
Sir,try to do the work somewhere visible..I cant seem to see the lines with my bare eyes...
I will somehow try to make it clearer next time.
@@sheetmetalwork Thank you sir.
Thanks. I have subscribed. Can you recommend a good trade school? I am Canadian.
Great question! I’m in NB and we only have one training facility in this province, PEI comes to NB for their training. Rest assure, most provinces offer this trade. Pretty much all trade schools that teach Sheet Metal in Canada are going to follow the guidelines from the National SM curriculum/ course content and will be good. The reason being, it’s an apprenticeship trade and after completing the required hours which is approximately 7200 hours, you will be eligible to write the SM Red Seal Exam, and finally become a Journeyman/Journeyperson.
BTW, thanks for subscribing and I hope the info helps you along the way. Do not hesitate to ask if you have questions,
@@sheetmetalwork Thank you Duane, only seeing this reply now! I am about to layout and fabricate a 14x12 to 16x8" drop cheek 90 with a fish lock on the 14x12" side. This tutorial has been so helpful!
Why not give the chosen throat radius, that you have chosen and the theory for it? It's good enough.
@@damienkodaseet5915 the theory for this fitting starts with much simpler triangulation fittings.
The alowance for pgh seam is 15/16" not 1"
No it’s probably more like 31/32”
I’m happy to hear that you paying very close attention to details.
good job
Thank you Enrique.
Pleace clear this vedio
@@FranciscoMacas-pd2sw Please explian to me why you want it deleted.
75 chanal ki description sokar kaise
Or use pa pentel pen to draw a line
Next time please use paper the line didn't see
I agree with you👍 the scribed lines are very hard to see 🙈that’s why I have been using markers on my last videos. I guess I’m still trying to see what works best for video tutorials or more importantly make it easier to understand. I promise to try and make it clearer next time👍