I just came across your channel and wow! This is awesome. I've been thinking about buying a choppin block chassis for a 1967 C10 SWB. The frame on it is pretty much shot. This video has definitely helped me make my decision. Choppin block chassis it is for me.
You need a boar gauge it would work great for this . Buy why don’t you just use wilwood parts so it all matches up saved hours of work for you and the customer in labor. Bear makes great stuff and so does wilwood. You yall do great work keep it up im 59 years old been doing metal work since i was 18 . And im still learning . Like your channel.
Just discovered your channel and am really surprised you don't have more subscribers. I think your videos are great! As a DIY fabricator working on my own car and truck projects for the last 30 years I especially appreciate your honesty. You show everything with no apologies. We all go this through this crap. I would get the wheel machined especially for such a high end project. I can't stand it when the wheels are just lug centric and not hub centric.
I know im randomly asking but does anyone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow lost the account password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Cash Lachlan I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out now. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
I would have the hub be two different diameters. Leave the part that touched the rotor the diameter it is and turn down the part that sticks out to the diameter of the wheel
Cool the hub in liquid nitrogen and heat the wheel below to powder coat / rubber temp, then re-torque them. Yeh. They won’t get stolen and then sell it before it needs tires. It is a joke folks, every men is proud of that extra 1/8th of an inch, except when the hub bore don’t fit. This sucks. It is like a new quarter panel for a GTO and it is 1/2” longer. It is the normal fitment issues folks run into daily when built a simple upgraded to anything that is over 40 years old. Either way in this case size does matter. (Tech Tip; apply anti-seize to hub face or wheel mount flange when ever different metals are mated. I have seen 6’ pry bars to sledgehammers w/wood bocks used to break a wheel loose from a hub, even on factory wheels on factory Buicks) Plus, use a torque wrench and not colored toque sticks! Ever! Never! I will find you…🥊
![The Ultimate Ford + Chevy Chassis [FULLY LOADED]](/img/n.gif)
I just came across your channel and wow! This is awesome. I've been thinking about buying a choppin block chassis for a 1967 C10 SWB. The frame on it is pretty much shot. This video has definitely helped me make my decision. Choppin block chassis it is for me.
Well boss, gotta fix the wheel the right way. Machine time
Levi, since you asked I’d probably used the Bridgeport to modify the hats, and possibly the wheels. I would have made a fixture for multiple use.
You need a boar gauge it would work great for this . Buy why don’t you just use wilwood parts so it all matches up saved hours of work for you and the customer in labor. Bear makes great stuff and so does wilwood. You yall do great work keep it up im 59 years old been doing metal work since i was 18 . And im still learning . Like your channel.
Just discovered your channel and am really surprised you don't have more subscribers. I think your videos are great! As a DIY fabricator working on my own car and truck projects for the last 30 years I especially appreciate your honesty. You show everything with no apologies. We all go this through this crap. I would get the wheel machined especially for such a high end project. I can't stand it when the wheels are just lug centric and not hub centric.
Enjoyable video. As a machinist, I would get the wheels machined to fit the hubs. I know -it’s a pain.
I know im randomly asking but does anyone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account??
I somehow lost the account password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Eduardo Elliott Instablaster =)
@Cash Lachlan I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out now.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Cash Lachlan it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
@Eduardo Elliott No problem :D
Hub for sure
I would measure the space back to the hat and Chamfer the hub that far back.
1/8in wheel spacer hub to get the mock up finished. Then when the chassis off to powdercoat have the wheel machined down.
Brian H that’s what I’m
Doing right now but I think I’m going to switch to the corvette hub and machine a hub centric ring adapter.
Grind the wheel
Why dont you just turn down the part of the hub that sticks past the rotor face?
lilpoindexter tried that today actually but can’t get it in the lathe. Tried several different positions and it can’t be done with my setup.
Throw the wheel on a Bridgeport machine and mill it out some??
I would have the hub be two different diameters. Leave the part that touched the rotor the diameter it is and turn down the part that sticks out to the diameter of the wheel
Schmoyer Life thats exactly what we did! Great job!
Cool the hub in liquid nitrogen and heat the wheel below to powder coat / rubber temp, then re-torque them. Yeh. They won’t get stolen and then sell it before it needs tires.
It is a joke folks, every men is proud of that extra 1/8th of an inch, except when the hub bore don’t fit. This sucks. It is like a new quarter panel for a GTO and it is 1/2” longer. It is the normal fitment issues folks run into daily when built a simple upgraded to anything that is over 40 years old.
Either way in this case size does matter. (Tech Tip; apply anti-seize to hub face or wheel mount flange when ever different metals are mated. I have seen 6’ pry bars to sledgehammers w/wood bocks used to break a wheel loose from a hub, even on factory wheels on factory Buicks) Plus, use a torque wrench and not colored toque sticks! Ever! Never! I will find you…🥊
use a hone on the rim..