Hey Taryl Fixes All, Thanks for your videos... I successfully added drain plugs to my 2008 model JD LA 125 with 200hrs on it. Very clean on the inside but now has a fresh charge of oil and it works great! I butted it up to a tree, both forward and reverse will spin the tires. Well Done Mister. Thank You.
Well I am going to give a shout out to Cox Mowers in Australia. They use this transmission in my Ride On and it has the drain plugs already. It even has a filler container and tube under the seat cavity to allow for the refill of oil. No removing the transaxle for me this time. I will do it in future to clean the magnets and change the filter, but not the first time. Gotta love that Coxee.
Hey just recently bought an old Cox Lawn Boss 13HP for a few hundred off a guy that gave up trying to fix it (won't start, electrical issue). I plan to get it going and do a bit of an overhaul on engine top end (obvious signs of leaking through valve cover and possibly cylinder head gasket), as well as service the transmission. I only just got it home and haven't even begun looking at it yet. I did notice though that under seat I do see the expansion/filler container -- completely empty though. Can I assume that my transmission should also have the oil drain plug then as well? Would you recommend me still removing the transaxle and opening it up to clean filter, magnets, and inspect gears, etc?
The biggest issue with K46 - 56 Series TuffTorq units are the lack of oil fill and drain. But don't blame TuffTorq. This problem resides with John Deere, Husqvarna, Cadet, etc. They want the cheapest transmission costs, even if it means saving pennies on the dollar. In almost 99.9% of applications that use the K46 base model, to refill the transmission has to come out of the chassis. At that point, you might as well take the bottom case off as shown to clean, inspect and replace seals, filter and refill with synthetic 5W50. Allot of the times, K46 models will need to replace the power and drive cylinders along with the center-case, if the magnets are packed with metal shavings. I have machined these components with good success if both center-case cylinder faces are not severely scored. This can save $200-$300. (US). Here in Canada, these 3 components can cost upwards of $500.00 + (Cdn) shipping and taxes. What's needed is a top side case fill tube kit that avoids the fan / pulley / belt assembly. I've tried to make a low cost kit without success. Last year TuffTorq introduced a top mount fill reservoir for the latest K46 model. I'm not sure if it retrofits and still fit in older lawn tractor models, let alone modify the rear top deck seat area to get access to it given the placement of most fuel tanks directly below the seat. The key to any kind of extended life for these transmissions is changing the oil every 50 / 100 hours (depending on type of use summer only or year round). Having rebuilt about 200 of these, there are some strange abuses some operators have put these things through. I dunno about Taryl, but I've seen these units begin to fail in less than 150 hours of light use. The average is about 200-225 hours before some kind of failure has occurred. Mainly because the oil hasn't been changed, despite the fact John Deere and others stating these are sealed lifetime units. TuffTorq publishes oil change intervals depending on the model. Using high quality oil and changing it regularly, these units in non-commercial service can easily exceed 300+ hrs before a major teardown is needed. Truth is, *most* consumers keep a lawn tractor less than 7 -10 years and average 20 hours of lawn cutting per year (and no winter use). So many do not carry out any transmitting service unless it breaks. So from John Deere marketing and procurement perspective, why add expensive maintenance options that reduces profit. That's the reality for owners of this class of lawn tractor; it's a throwaway item after 7 - 10 years of light use. A K66 / 72 / 92 costs 3 - 5 times as much and available only on commerical / professional grade tractors.
@@billharris3049 Thanks for the comment. But as you heard in the video, Taryl will cover the common issues and problems with the K-46 in a future video. And I think we all prefer his compared to anyone else's!!
"The key to any kind of extended life for these transmissions is Changing the oil every 50 /100 hours of use" if you have to change the oil that frequent to keep it working as it should than it was junk to begin with. Its supposed to be a sealed units that doesn't require any service for the life of the lawnmower. Hence the not having the ability to change fluid and a filter. These units are NOT CHEAP for what they cost to replace or repair they should be more durable. These units are not subjected to extreme speed or tourqe situations.. it's on a mower powered by a belt that can slip not a shaft that won't give. They over heat and warp then the seals leak out the fluid and then it's burnt and ruined. The blame for the unit failure falls squarely on tuff tourqe. Not the nahcine it's installed on.. their profit margins could take a hit to give consumers what they are paying for without them losing any sleep but they don't. They want to get as much money as they can for their crap with minimal costs to shit it out.
Well I mow acres of fields, 100 hours a year, got 600 hours till the diff gears failed suddenly. Replacement 46 trans at my JD dealer $990. Had one in stock. That tells you it's a fast moving item. Easy 1.5 hour replacement do it yerself X350. Disappointing service life from John Deere.
Planned obsolescence. By the flat areas in the low places on the casting it does look like the engineer who designed it thought of drain plugs. Then it crossed the bean counter's desk, and a GM moment occurred. I say GM moment because a few years ago a co worker bought his daughter a Cobalt, and it didn't even have a transmission dipstick. Throw away world.
Great Video Taryl ! This should be required watching for all Tuff Torque K46 owners be they John Deere, Husqvarna, Cub Cadet or other MTD mower, etc., etc., etc.....
I spoke to the tech support at tuff torq this morning and was informed they no longer support the drain plug option. They recommend an initial oil and filter change at 50 hours and then again every 200 hours after. The advised method going forward is to split the case, clean the magnets, and change the filter. Their service kit is $75 and includes everything you need. Just pull the model and serial number off the sticker on the case and order the correct kit off their website. Hope this helps.
It's nice to have those two drain plugs on the bottom of the transmission, but I have a John Deere with the K46 transmission, and the space above the transmission with it installed in the riding mower is so close I still have to remove the transmission from the riding mower in order to refill the transmission, anyway. So, I just remove the transmission from the riding mower, flip it upside down over the bucket with the fill cap removed and let it drain out over a couple hours, refill and replace the cap and reinstall the transmission into the riding mower. Once you do this it really becomes easy. It will take you 15 minutes to remove the transmission, and 15 minutes to reinstall. While you have it out and draining over the bucket, you can go have a couple beers under the shade tree.
Hi Tarryle. At 12:38 you mentioned two separate cavities silicones Separate. Question: So how would the oil get to both Separate areas from just the one Filler hole by the fan? Thanks very much. Love your channel. Full of great information. I appreciate it.
I wondered the same thing! I suspect there is a cross through hole somewhere that connects the two cavities and the bridge between them is simply for structural strength.
After watching twice I think once the fluid level gets up high enough on the one side it starts to spill over on the other side. Then keep a close eye on it as the other side fills so you don’t spill it all over.
This is the best video on planned obsolesce that has been made. There's a reason that over time things fail. Acute or chronic. What is upsetting is that the transmission manufacturer provided an answer to longevity that a company green deere chose not to use. As to why we all know the answer. If you walk up to a vehicle and you can't check all the fluids, stop and think why? Then walk away Renee.
Interesting. I've been servicing a 2002 Simplicity riding mower. Drain and fill plugs are on it. Drained and filled with 10w30 Rotella T5. 600 hrs and runs great. Use 10w30 Mobil 1 High Mileage oil in B&S Intek V Twin.
My T40A started slipping, saw your vids on messing with this trans with drains. I didn't want to pull the trans so I drilled out the bosses from underneath. What a mess, the drill really flings the oil around :). I tapped out the holes for 3/8 pipe pulgs. I'll use a garden sprayer with oil in it to bottom fill the case until it overflows out the top. Sort of like filling the lower on an outboard motor. Thanks for the ideas.
Oh yeah I remember those days. I decided to look at my Tuff Torqs and it wasn't bad. I wish I would have known about the plugs. But it was great to open it up for the first time to check all the magnets. Mine wasn't that bad though..then ended up doing another transmission for someone. LOL I can't believe the drawing skills of little johnny...lol Grandpa what was that smell...still can't stop laughing...lol
Jiminy crickets!!! I am literally ON THE EDGE OF MY SEAT waiting on you to open that repair kit box!!! Been hoping you would do this for years!!! Hopefully the "later date" you refer to is next week...Thanks so much in advance Taryl. Love you on the interscreen. :-)
This all is nice ! But my question is ,when u drain the unit when in the tractor how are u gonna fill it back up ? Looks really really easy sitting on that bench !
That's machine-specific.. Some will have a fill access hole below the seat. Others will have a filler neck. Yes, some you may need to drop the trans anyway but probably not usually ~
Great video. Says a lot about corporations and the fact they wouldn't spend the quarter to put drain plugs in from the get go. Just sell you a new mower when this one craps out.
They spend a fortune on advertising while word of mouth for doing stupid things keeps making them look like jackasses. I know how they could recoup that quarter on every unit. Raise the price 25 cents. They're already a giant rip-off.
Thanks, just ordered 2ea. drain plugs. You mentioned that the transmission case is divided into 2 sections hence why it has 2 drain plugs. My question is does the oil get to both cavities from one common fill hole? I gather it would also be a good idea to rotate the gearset while at the high mark to aide in that? Or just fill it to the required level and forget about it? Thanks for sharing this VERY informative video!!!
Awesome comic relief. Great info and tips too!! IDK your real name but tyvm for taking the time and effort you put into the videos. Grass rat A-a-ron out.
I replaced a lot of axle seals on those hydros in Cub Cadet mowers. MTD/Cub Cadet has there own kit that comes with axle seals and the rubber plug. At least on the Cub's, the rubber plug is somewhat accessible with the battery ouy.
With the cub im wondering of you could remove the battery pop the cap drop the pan without ever removing it from tractor. Have a xt1 i might just try this out on.
I don't see a way to get to the filter without removing that cover. Did I miss something? Also, if the two halves are sealed from each other why only one fill hole? I guess I could go look for schematics on their web site, but I'm going to take the lazy way and just ask Taryl.
Wow ,you had a great eye for DA TAIL ! I missed that,i used to do R&D and drilled a lot of drain holes in stuff,but i missed that detail myself.HEY TARYL,WHY is that? does the level of the fluid spill over to the other side in spite of the sealer ? There must be be a low spot that the level of oil is high enough to allow 2nd chamber to fill.The 2 drains do make sense,to me though.LITTLE Johnny is spending a little to much time in the bathroom by himself 1/2 hour to pee is just too darn long,Oh wait....he's OK he's got his coloring book.....Hustler...Got if from GRAND PA
When the transmission is sitting right side up it's sealed around the outside and then the axle is sealed separately but has different compartments but they don't go all the way to the top it's like two sinks in a bathroom if one fills all the way up it will overflow into the next sink and well more likely the counter not the greatest example
What's less clear to me is this same trans is used in some models with an oil reservoir above the trans, thus the oil level is up over the gear case, far above the level discussed in the diagram.
Thank you taryl, you do a very good job of explaining how to repair things, I was wondering-since the filter is a screen, could you just thoroughly clean and reuse it?
So You install drain plugs then how do you fill the Gear Box after it's back installed in mower . Is there enough room to get to the plugs to refill Gear Box ?
Another excellent tutorial. Too bad so many manufacturers will spec that transmission WITHOUT drain plugs. The mighty bean counter usually gets the last word and in the end the consumer pays dearly.
After 2 years this video is super relevant! I'm about to do the same to my tuff torq k51A JD Saber 38" mower. Anybody know if I can pull that cover off @ 10:55 while still mounted to the mower???. Looks like from the video I'll have to catch the filter clean it-case and and and reseal yeah? Thanks Taryl fixes all!.
I figure like this. I purchased my LA 115 in 2008. Never had a problem with it at 260 hrs runs great. if I do it one time without putting those drain plugs. I'm headed again of game.
I am missing something. If you need to add 2 drain plugs because the differential and the transmission are separate, how can you fill the unit from just a single opening?
I know this is an old comment but figured in case someone else is here and confused... Two drains are needed because there are two cavities that fluid can settle into. Yes fluid coming in from the fill port (or being pumped around) can come in the top of either of these two wells but it won't be able to exit until the fluid level in the low spot gets up over the wall around it and it can overflow. If you only put in one drain you would leave a bunch of fluid in the other low area of the pan/transmission.
Ok I have a question. The Tranny is a John Deere K46BR. Only 17 hrs and uses JD Hy Gard oil. The filler cap in inaccessible (JD has gas tank in the way). If I add drain plugs at 100 hrs, clean magnets & bottom cover..., can I siphon out using drill pump from vent cap assuming I'll always have to buy a spare vent cap? I like the idea of oil drained from bottom to get rid of debris. Your thoughts. Thanks.
a guy gave me a very nice looking John Deere rider because the dealer told him that the transaxle was shot and you couldn't repair that type of transaxle so the gave it to me, I did some checking and found that the dealer lied to him, I got the part that was bad, replaced it and it worked great and after using it for a year or two, I sold it to someone who just couldn't live with out it so, yes, they can be repaired.
Awesome videos Carol you should be a H.S. shop teacher. Sad today they don't offer small engine classes in H. S. Boy i reminisce my Freshman year 1980 learning how to rip these machines down & put them back together!
You only need to put oil in one hole....use the breather hole...keep in mind, you will need a new breather. The oil will go to both compartments. You still need to remover that cover to clean/change that filter and the internal magnet !....and remove the trans to clean the magnet at the oil fill. It will be deceiving to drain the oil and assume the internal parts are good because of no metal in the oil....remember, its nearly a sealed system...the only contamination the oil can get is metal...no liquids or chunks of dirt...just possibly dust from the breather. Only liquid it could get would be if you take the tractor for a swim.
I sold my LT-166 due to this issue,the hydro was sealed and I was told by the dealer to just run it until it blew up. This didn't set well with me Tayrl and crew,so after the second summer of owning the LT-166,I sold it and bought a new LX-288,this model had a external level reservoir,with drain plug and had the beefier K-66 hydro in it.
I have. Yard machine model 679 . It’s a 1998 model. I had the trans replaced once due to a backyard flood. It’s making some noise from the rear (howling) at higher speeds. It doesent have any drain plugs and I’m trying to figure out how to drain and refill mine. I’m not opposed to adding drain/refill plugs. Just looking for advice. My trans model is 618-0163B.
Long time sub. Hey Taryl, I have a question for ya if you get a chance to think about it ,I have a 62 cc chainsaw and it will sit there and idle on its own for around 8 or 10 seconds then it speeds up a little and then just dies. What do ya think I should look at ,any help will be greatly appreciated. Great channel
I just got a craftsman ys4500 from a friend to mow our new house. Lots of hills and after 30 minutes, the mower loses power up the hill. I tried draining the oil out without removing the Trans and only got .75 qt out and it looked like chocolate milk. Is it worth taking apart to do the drain plug kit or just get a different mower?
Good to see Little Johnny applying his artistic ability! LOL! You would think they would just pre-install those drain plugs when they precast those holes. A lot of work to drain that transmission without those plugs. Good video Taryl, I enjoyed it as always!
But why should I install the drain plugs ? If I want an oil change I also need to change the filter. Either way I have to disassemble, clean and reseal this small tub from the transmission unit, because the transmission filter is inside the transmission Am I missing something please explain.
Great Video and thank you! I installed the drain plugs in a Husqvarna mower with a K46 transmission. Now I'm going to install drain plugs on a John Deer X320. I am thinking about placing a drain plug right under the filter. Any reason that I shouldn't install it there?
Thanks for the info Taryl. Just one question: Even if I can now easily drain the oil, if I then can't easily refill it through the vent and have to pull the trans to get the fan off to get to the refill plug, am I any better off to add the drain plugs?
The drain plugs are pointless on most L series john deers with that trans as you still have to remove the trans just to access the filler. They really needed a reseviour that you can check an top up when required.
Any suggestions on where to add grease in a 1992 Craftsman transmission? Everything works great, shifts smooth, and I really don't want to disassemble it to clean it out, but I figured adding a little more wouldn't hurt. It uses grease and not oil, however.
Drain plugs are nice but there is usually no way to fill the transmission from the top when it's in the tractor. Still have to remove it and fill it anyway which allows you to thoroughly clean the top of the trans where all the debris collects in the cooling fins.
Take the rear left side wheel off use a long flat head driver, then pop off cap with magnet. To fill back up but a pump kit at local parts store that has a pump & hose that mounts on top of oil container now pump oil in!
Wow this is crazy! Almost a year ago I bought a exmark walk behind with a blown up motor and the weekend I was swapping the motor tarly uploaded a video on swapping a motor on the exact mower I was doing it on!! Now this weekend I am working on rebuilding this same transaxle and he post a video on it. 🤔
Exactly. These drain plugs do nothing to help in the refill process. Access to the problematic fill port location pretty much means pulling the trans again.
I have a John Deere LX 277 with a 17 hp Kawasaki that has an oil leak at the crankcase seam, needs that gasket replaced. Do you think I can fix this myself?
Hey Taryl, how do I know what transmission is in my Riding Mower? I have a Bolens, Lawn tractor, with a 13.5hp Briggs and Stratton engine. I am restoring or revitalizing the Lawn Tractor, engine and transmission with cleaning, new seals and oils. However, I can't seem to find out what my transmission is, so I can order parts.
wow taryl nice video that lego toy little johnny had was the same thing i had that race truck thing good work on the videos helpful hints youve saved me a lot thanks
Obviously, this was designed by someone that had been in the Navy - and was left with the idea that preventive maintenance meant tearing everything completely apart - on a routine basis.
Hey Taryl Fixes All, Thanks for your videos... I successfully added drain plugs to my 2008 model JD LA 125 with 200hrs on it. Very clean on the inside but now has a fresh charge of oil and it works great! I butted it up to a tree, both forward and reverse will spin the tires. Well Done Mister. Thank You.
Well I am going to give a shout out to Cox Mowers in Australia. They use this transmission in my Ride On and it has the drain plugs already. It even has a filler container and tube under the seat cavity to allow for the refill of oil. No removing the transaxle for me this time. I will do it in future to clean the magnets and change the filter, but not the first time. Gotta love that Coxee.
Hey just recently bought an old Cox Lawn Boss 13HP for a few hundred off a guy that gave up trying to fix it (won't start, electrical issue). I plan to get it going and do a bit of an overhaul on engine top end (obvious signs of leaking through valve cover and possibly cylinder head gasket), as well as service the transmission. I only just got it home and haven't even begun looking at it yet. I did notice though that under seat I do see the expansion/filler container -- completely empty though. Can I assume that my transmission should also have the oil drain plug then as well? Would you recommend me still removing the transaxle and opening it up to clean filter, magnets, and inspect gears, etc?
The biggest issue with K46 - 56 Series TuffTorq units are the lack of oil fill and drain.
But don't blame TuffTorq. This problem resides with John Deere, Husqvarna, Cadet, etc. They want the cheapest transmission costs, even if it means saving pennies on the dollar. In almost 99.9% of applications that use the K46 base model, to refill the transmission has to come out of the chassis. At that point, you might as well take the bottom case off as shown to clean, inspect and replace seals, filter and refill with synthetic 5W50.
Allot of the times, K46 models will need to replace the power and drive cylinders along with the center-case, if the magnets are packed with metal shavings.
I have machined these components with good success if both center-case cylinder faces are not severely scored. This can save $200-$300. (US).
Here in Canada, these 3 components can cost upwards of $500.00 + (Cdn) shipping and taxes.
What's needed is a top side case fill tube kit that avoids the fan / pulley / belt assembly. I've tried to make a low cost kit without success. Last year TuffTorq introduced a top mount fill reservoir for the latest K46 model. I'm not sure if it retrofits and still fit in older lawn tractor models, let alone modify the rear top deck seat area to get access to it given the placement of most fuel tanks directly below the seat.
The key to any kind of extended life for these transmissions is changing the oil every 50 / 100 hours (depending on type of use summer only or year round).
Having rebuilt about 200 of these, there are some strange abuses some operators have put these things through. I dunno about Taryl, but I've seen these units begin to fail in less than 150 hours of light use. The average is about 200-225 hours before some kind of failure has occurred. Mainly because the oil hasn't been changed, despite the fact John Deere and others stating these are sealed lifetime units. TuffTorq publishes oil change intervals depending on the model.
Using high quality oil and changing it regularly, these units in non-commercial service can easily exceed 300+ hrs before a major teardown is needed. Truth is, *most* consumers keep a lawn tractor less than 7 -10 years and average 20 hours of lawn cutting per year (and no winter use). So many do not carry out any transmitting service unless it breaks. So from John Deere marketing and procurement perspective, why add expensive maintenance options that reduces profit. That's the reality for owners of this class of lawn tractor; it's a throwaway item after 7 - 10 years of light use. A K66 / 72 / 92 costs 3 - 5 times as much and available only on commerical / professional grade tractors.
You sir should do some TH-cam vids on this subject...I would subscribe to that!
@@billharris3049 Thanks for the comment. But as you heard in the video, Taryl will cover the common issues and problems with the K-46 in a future video. And I think we all prefer his compared to anyone else's!!
"The key to any kind of extended life for these transmissions is Changing the oil every 50 /100 hours of use" if you have to change the oil that frequent to keep it working as it should than it was junk to begin with. Its supposed to be a sealed units that doesn't require any service for the life of the lawnmower. Hence the not having the ability to change fluid and a filter. These units are NOT CHEAP for what they cost to replace or repair they should be more durable. These units are not subjected to extreme speed or tourqe situations.. it's on a mower powered by a belt that can slip not a shaft that won't give. They over heat and warp then the seals leak out the fluid and then it's burnt and ruined. The blame for the unit failure falls squarely on tuff tourqe. Not the nahcine it's installed on.. their profit margins could take a hit to give consumers what they are paying for without them losing any sleep but they don't. They want to get as much money as they can for their crap with minimal costs to shit it out.
Well I mow acres of fields, 100 hours a year, got 600 hours till the diff gears failed suddenly. Replacement 46 trans at my JD dealer $990. Had one in stock. That tells you it's a fast moving item. Easy 1.5 hour replacement do it yerself X350. Disappointing service life from John Deere.
Love that deliverance t-shirt Taryl. It's my favorite documentary. 👍
Not doing this at the factory is simply criminal.
Oh, they did on my 2000 K46
Planned obsolescence. By the flat areas in the low places on the casting it does look like the engineer who designed it thought of drain plugs. Then it crossed the bean counter's desk, and a GM moment occurred.
I say GM moment because a few years ago a co worker bought his daughter a Cobalt, and it didn't even have a transmission dipstick. Throw away world.
@@Freedomquest08 Mercedes does it too. lifetime ATF. maybe less warranty issues if dummies can't get in there
@@Freedomquest08 yes cobalts were trash
@@Freedomquest08 same for the early ford PTUs, no drain.......they burn up in less than 100k miles
Great Video Taryl ! This should be required watching for all Tuff Torque K46 owners be they John Deere, Husqvarna, Cub Cadet or other MTD mower, etc., etc., etc.....
I spoke to the tech support at tuff torq this morning and was informed they no longer support the drain plug option. They recommend an initial oil and filter change at 50 hours and then again every 200 hours after. The advised method going forward is to split the case, clean the magnets, and change the filter. Their service kit is $75 and includes everything you need. Just pull the model and serial number off the sticker on the case and order the correct kit off their website. Hope this helps.
Did they say why they no longer recommend the addition of drain plugs?
I think I would just by the bolts washers and do it anyways
It's nice to have those two drain plugs on the bottom of the transmission, but I have a John Deere with the K46 transmission, and the space above the transmission with it installed in the riding mower is so close I still have to remove the transmission from the riding mower in order to refill the transmission, anyway. So, I just remove the transmission from the riding mower, flip it upside down over the bucket with the fill cap removed and let it drain out over a couple hours, refill and replace the cap and reinstall the transmission into the riding mower. Once you do this it really becomes easy. It will take you 15 minutes to remove the transmission, and 15 minutes to reinstall.
While you have it out and draining over the bucket, you can go have a couple beers under the shade tree.
Hey Rob, is it necessary to remove the deck each time?
@@PilotViewProductions No, you don't need to remove the deck to remove the transaxle, just the wheels, and the various linkages.
Hi Rob J - I agree with you, my JD L130 with the K46 transaxle, can't be filled without removing it, hence the drain plugs are useless. YMMV.
Rob, ever wonder about the filter? Or how about stirring up harmless debris on the bottom to get another chance to do damage.. just saying
Taryl voice when imitating critics.........PRICELESS! 🤣
Hi Tarryle. At 12:38 you mentioned two separate cavities silicones Separate. Question: So how would the oil get to both Separate areas from just the one Filler hole by the fan? Thanks very much. Love your channel. Full of great information. I appreciate it.
I wondered the same thing! I suspect there is a cross through hole somewhere that connects the two cavities and the bridge between them is simply for structural strength.
After watching twice I think once the fluid level gets up high enough on the one side it starts to spill over on the other side. Then keep a close eye on it as the other side fills so you don’t spill it all over.
This is the best video on planned obsolesce that has been made. There's a reason that over time things fail. Acute or chronic. What is upsetting is that the transmission manufacturer provided an answer to longevity that a company green deere chose not to use. As to why we all know the answer. If you walk up to a vehicle and you can't check all the fluids, stop and think why? Then walk away Renee.
It looks like the five gallon bucket makes a good transmission stand.
Ya
i just put a old blanket on my plywood table and its done.
Yep 😁
That's more likely what I would have used myself.
Taryl’s makin the big bucks, he can afford the fancy stand and such!
I just suction it out the fill hole on my hydro gear that has no drain and refill with fresh synthetic 20/50. Good enough for me.
Good idea on the drain plugs, and good job Taryl! "Mower on a Turd"...LOL you guys are the best!
Interesting. I've been servicing a 2002 Simplicity riding mower. Drain and fill plugs are on it. Drained and filled with 10w30 Rotella T5. 600 hrs and runs great. Use 10w30 Mobil 1 High Mileage oil in B&S Intek V Twin.
My T40A started slipping, saw your vids on messing with this trans with drains. I didn't want to pull the trans so I drilled out the bosses from underneath. What a mess, the drill really flings the oil around :). I tapped out the holes for 3/8 pipe pulgs. I'll use a garden sprayer with oil in it to bottom fill the case until it overflows out the top. Sort of like filling the lower on an outboard motor. Thanks for the ideas.
Oh yeah I remember those days. I decided to look at my Tuff Torqs and it wasn't bad. I wish I would have known about the plugs. But it was great to open it up for the first time to check all the magnets. Mine wasn't that bad though..then ended up doing another transmission for someone.
LOL I can't believe the drawing skills of little johnny...lol Grandpa what was that smell...still can't stop laughing...lol
Thanks!
Tank You Daryl great detail has always. would of like to see that part number of the seal kit i will look it up. thanks again
Been following yall for a while and sure do enjoy watching the videos. Thank yall!!!!
Jiminy crickets!!! I am literally ON THE EDGE OF MY SEAT waiting on you to open that repair kit box!!! Been hoping you would do this for years!!! Hopefully the "later date" you refer to is next week...Thanks so much in advance Taryl. Love you on the interscreen. :-)
@Taryl Do you have a link for the Drain Plug Kit?
I couldn't find it your links
This all is nice ! But my question is ,when u drain the unit when in the tractor how are u gonna fill it back up ? Looks really really easy sitting on that bench !
My question also.
Ditto. Where’s the video with the DIY fix for that???
That's machine-specific.. Some will have a fill access hole below the seat. Others will have a filler neck. Yes, some you may need to drop the trans anyway but probably not usually ~
Great video. Says a lot about corporations and the fact they wouldn't spend the quarter to put drain plugs in from the get go. Just sell you a new mower when this one craps out.
@@gfriedman99 that made me laugh!
@Richard Daugherty Yes, they do.
They spend a fortune on advertising while word of mouth for doing stupid things keeps making them look like jackasses. I know how they could recoup that quarter on every unit. Raise the price 25 cents. They're already a giant rip-off.
Great info and direction. Teeth and wigs not necessary.
Thanks, just ordered 2ea. drain plugs. You mentioned that the transmission case is divided into 2 sections hence why it has 2 drain plugs. My question is does the oil get to both cavities from one common fill hole? I gather it would also be a good idea to rotate the gearset while at the high mark to aide in that? Or just fill it to the required level and forget about it? Thanks for sharing this VERY informative video!!!
Awesome comic relief. Great info and tips too!! IDK your real name but tyvm for taking the time and effort you put into the videos. Grass rat A-a-ron out.
I replaced a lot of axle seals on those hydros in Cub Cadet mowers. MTD/Cub Cadet has there own kit that comes with axle seals and the rubber plug. At least on the Cub's, the rubber plug is somewhat accessible with the battery ouy.
With the cub im wondering of you could remove the battery pop the cap drop the pan without ever removing it from tractor. Have a xt1 i might just try this out on.
I don't see a way to get to the filter without removing that cover. Did I miss something? Also, if the two halves are sealed from each other why only one fill hole? I guess I could go look for schematics on their web site, but I'm going to take the lazy way and just ask Taryl.
Wow ,you had a great eye for DA TAIL ! I missed that,i used to do R&D and drilled a lot of drain holes in stuff,but i missed that detail myself.HEY TARYL,WHY is that? does the level of the fluid spill over to the other side in spite of the sealer ? There must be be a low spot that the level of oil is high enough to allow 2nd chamber to fill.The 2 drains do make sense,to me though.LITTLE Johnny is spending a little to much time in the bathroom by himself 1/2 hour to pee is just too darn long,Oh wait....he's OK he's got his coloring book.....Hustler...Got if from GRAND PA
When the transmission is sitting right side up it's sealed around the outside and then the axle is sealed separately but has different compartments but they don't go all the way to the top it's like two sinks in a bathroom if one fills all the way up it will overflow into the next sink and well more likely the counter not the greatest example
@@notdirtyflics1067 Nah man it's a good example.
What's less clear to me is this same trans is used in some models with an oil reservoir above the trans, thus the oil level is up over the gear case, far above the level discussed in the diagram.
LOL you can ask but NO answers
The outtakes are hilarious. Keep it up guys. Love what y’all are doing.
Thank you taryl, you do a very good job of explaining how to repair things, I was wondering-since the filter is a screen, could you just thoroughly clean and reuse it?
what is the part numbers for the drain plug and Dealer tool kit i can't find them on the site
Would using 5w50 synthetic oil in a K46 be ok? If not what would happen to the trans? Thanks , Great channel!
Daryl, what's the parts number for the drain plug kit for the tuff torque transmission?? Can't find it on their website.
Love the videos. Watched every one of them.
So You install drain plugs then how do you fill the Gear Box after it's back installed in mower . Is there enough room to get to the plugs to refill Gear Box ?
this is great to have lil johnny back
Another excellent tutorial. Too bad so many manufacturers will spec that transmission WITHOUT drain plugs. The mighty bean counter usually gets the last word and in the end the consumer pays dearly.
After 2 years this video is super relevant! I'm about to do the same to my tuff torq k51A JD Saber 38" mower. Anybody know if I can pull that cover off @ 10:55 while still mounted to the mower???. Looks like from the video I'll have to catch the filter clean it-case and and and reseal yeah? Thanks Taryl fixes all!.
Simply awesome video.
Thanks for making it.
little johnny need to grow into his teeth, but he sure can draw,
I knew it you do watch these videos
I've seen you have the mugs
Mustie are you spying on the competition?.....Hahahahahaha
Mustie1.... where’s your teeth? If ya ain’t got your teeth...then ya can’t eat your dinner!!! LMFFAO!
What good are the drain plugs when you still have to remove the transmission off the tractor and remove the cover to change the filter?
No comment
8 mm 1.25 thread pitch. Time stamp 23:08
@@HB-yq8gy ?
You do have a point there.
I figure like this. I purchased my LA 115 in 2008. Never had a problem with it at 260 hrs runs great. if I do it one time without putting those drain plugs. I'm headed again of game.
the correct way to mount the axle is one stud up through the stand (front one) and the second (rear screw) down through the axle and hold it solid.
WOW...in Australia the dealer just said $1500 for a new tranny , told me it was a sealed unit , glad I googled here ....and now subscribed
I am missing something. If you need to add 2 drain plugs because the differential and the transmission are separate, how can you fill the unit from just a single opening?
I know this is an old comment but figured in case someone else is here and confused... Two drains are needed because there are two cavities that fluid can settle into. Yes fluid coming in from the fill port (or being pumped around) can come in the top of either of these two wells but it won't be able to exit until the fluid level in the low spot gets up over the wall around it and it can overflow. If you only put in one drain you would leave a bunch of fluid in the other low area of the pan/transmission.
Ok I have a question. The Tranny is a John Deere K46BR. Only 17 hrs and uses JD Hy Gard oil. The filler cap in inaccessible (JD has gas tank in the way). If I add drain plugs at 100 hrs, clean magnets & bottom cover..., can I siphon out using drill pump from vent cap assuming I'll always have to buy a spare vent cap? I like the idea of oil drained from bottom to get rid of debris. Your thoughts. Thanks.
a guy gave me a very nice looking John Deere rider because the dealer told him that the transaxle was shot and you couldn't repair that type of transaxle so the gave it to me, I did some checking and found that the dealer lied to him, I got the part that was bad, replaced it and it worked great and after using it for a year or two, I sold it to someone who just couldn't live with out it so, yes, they can be repaired.
Awesome videos Carol you should be a H.S. shop teacher. Sad today they don't offer small engine classes in H. S. Boy i reminisce my Freshman year 1980 learning how to rip these machines down & put them back together!
Nice shirt Taryl!
Great video! I’m going to do this on my husqvarna mower
So how easy or should I say hard is it to get to the fill holes when the trans is mounted in the mower?
Almost impossible.
You only need to put oil in one hole....use the breather hole...keep in mind, you will need a new breather. The oil will go to both compartments. You still need to remover that cover to clean/change that filter and the internal magnet !....and remove the trans to clean the magnet at the oil fill. It will be deceiving to drain the oil and assume the internal parts are good because of no metal in the oil....remember, its nearly a sealed system...the only contamination the oil can get is metal...no liquids or chunks of dirt...just possibly dust from the breather. Only liquid it could get would be if you take the tractor for a swim.
The filler caps like to crack. The one in the video is a prime example. Oil leaks out and dirt goes in.
Thanks, I needed that information for the drain plug locations, keep the videos coming
Terrific idea bud. Top notch 👍
How many hours did that transmission have on it?
The bucket makes a nice shade tree trans stand too
You'd think the drain points would be at the lowest point in the case. Little Johnny would have engineered it that way, that kid has promise!
I sold my LT-166 due to this issue,the hydro was sealed and I was told by the dealer to just run it until it blew up.
This didn't set well with me Tayrl and crew,so after the second summer of owning the LT-166,I sold it and bought a new LX-288,this model had a external level reservoir,with drain plug and had the beefier K-66 hydro in it.
Brilliant video thank you 😀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I have. Yard machine model 679 .
It’s a 1998 model.
I had the trans replaced once due to a backyard flood.
It’s making some noise from the rear (howling) at higher speeds.
It doesent have any drain plugs and I’m trying to figure out how to drain and refill mine.
I’m not opposed to adding drain/refill plugs.
Just looking for advice.
My trans model is 618-0163B.
Mr terl do you have a video where you fix a transmission for a hosquavarna mower
Long time sub. Hey Taryl, I have a question for ya if you get a chance to think about it ,I have a 62 cc chainsaw and it will sit there and idle on its own for around 8 or 10 seconds then it speeds up a little and then just dies. What do ya think I should look at ,any help will be greatly appreciated. Great channel
Yep, likely leaning out. Try turning low speed mixture screw counterclockwise to see if richening mixture resolves problem.
I just got a craftsman ys4500 from a friend to mow our new house. Lots of hills and after 30 minutes, the mower loses power up the hill. I tried draining the oil out without removing the Trans and only got .75 qt out and it looked like chocolate milk. Is it worth taking apart to do the drain plug kit or just get a different mower?
Ya need to put Grandpa on that 5 gallon bucket!
1:40 - Keep an eye on Grandpa. Seemed a little too eager to "help out".
Oh good lawd !
Great video taryl keep them coming
Good to see Little Johnny applying his artistic ability! LOL! You would think they would just pre-install those drain plugs when they precast those holes. A lot of work to drain that transmission without those plugs. Good video Taryl, I enjoyed it as always!
But why should I install the drain plugs ? If I want an oil change I also need to change the filter. Either way I have to disassemble, clean and reseal this small tub from the transmission unit, because the transmission filter is inside the transmission
Am I missing something please explain.
@@ImplantedMemories That's a good point. Why put the filter inside the damn thing?
Sounds like a good time to go take a good long piss...
Yeah, well, I just pour it on the driveway to keep the dust down...
Great Video and thank you! I installed the drain plugs in a Husqvarna mower with a K46 transmission. Now I'm going to install drain plugs on a John Deer X320. I am thinking about placing a drain plug right under the filter. Any reason that I shouldn't install it there?
Was thinking the same. Probably case to thin there. That’s why they have the two bosses.
Thanks So much been looking for a good video on how to do this.
VERY informative video. THANK you for the confidence for me to do this.
My forward pedal is sticking intermitently on husqavarna... any recommendations. 2014
Are all trans equipped with these precast drain ports.
Thanks for the info Taryl. Just one question: Even if I can now easily drain the oil, if I then can't easily refill it through the vent and have to pull the trans to get the fan off to get to the refill plug, am I any better off to add the drain plugs?
That’s what I was thinking maybe you could put the oil back in like adding oil to the lower end of a boat motor. Just pump it back in.
I always look forward to these comedy skits, they are great!
I think your 5 gallon bucket makes a better transmission stand in your transmission stand does
The drain plugs are pointless on most L series john deers with that trans as you still have to remove the trans just to access the filler. They really needed a reseviour that you can check an top up when required.
My 2002 Simplicity has a reservoir but found out it's a K61 Tuff Tork Hydrostatic transmission ~ medium duty; K46 is light duty.
Any suggestions on where to add grease in a 1992 Craftsman transmission? Everything works great, shifts smooth, and I really don't want to disassemble it to clean it out, but I figured adding a little more wouldn't hurt. It uses grease and not oil, however.
Excellent as always!!!
Grandpa couldn't hold his excitment in. 🤣🤣🤣
Or his excrement.
Drain plugs are nice but there is usually no way to fill the transmission from the top when it's in the tractor. Still have to remove it and fill it anyway which allows you to thoroughly clean the top of the trans where all the debris collects in the cooling fins.
Some models have an oil reservoir above the trans. Theoretically you can extend the air vent up with the right connection.
Take the rear left side wheel off use a long flat head driver, then pop off cap with magnet. To fill back up but a pump kit at local parts store that has a pump & hose that mounts on top of oil container now pump oil in!
What's that smell Grandpa? LMAO! little Johnny.
Love your videos, Good job Taryl!
probably a dood idea to paint the plugs to stand out from case bolts
You are the best. Thank you.
When you refill through the fill hole located under the fan, it will fill both compartments. Is that correct?
Wow this is crazy! Almost a year ago I bought a exmark walk behind with a blown up motor and the weekend I was swapping the motor tarly uploaded a video on swapping a motor on the exact mower I was doing it on!! Now this weekend I am working on rebuilding this same transaxle and he post a video on it. 🤔
Great video guys
how do you fill the transmission after it is back in and you have drained it with new drain plugs
Exactly. These drain plugs do nothing to help in the refill process. Access to the problematic fill port location pretty much means pulling the trans again.
Great video Taryl!
What are the extra posts that look like upside down legs on the transmission stand for?
so if you hard mount the trans you can flip the whole thing over and it'll stand still
Wiping my own ass for years now....what a great comeback. lol
taryl for president 2020,, send the hamms to help the cause
Great video. Thanks
I have a John Deere LX 277 with a 17 hp Kawasaki that has an oil leak at the crankcase seam, needs that gasket replaced. Do you think I can fix this myself?
Hey Taryl, how do I know what transmission is in my Riding Mower? I have a Bolens, Lawn tractor, with a 13.5hp Briggs and Stratton engine. I am restoring or revitalizing the Lawn Tractor, engine and transmission with cleaning, new seals and oils. However, I can't seem to find out what my transmission is, so I can order parts.
That was some good info T.
isnt there stuff at the bottom of trans? and by fliping it to drain ure just putting all th egunk on the parts inside the trans?
Where do you find the pages on there site
wow taryl nice video that lego toy little johnny had was the same thing i had that race truck thing good work on the videos helpful hints youve saved me a lot thanks
How does one know what brand and model hydro is in any riding mower? Is it stamped on the casing?
Tuff Torq has a sticker on it. www.tufftorqservices.com/instance1EnvEEdefault/FlatHTML/TransaxleIdentification/LT_K46.htm
Obviously, this was designed by someone that had been in the Navy - and was left with the idea that preventive maintenance meant tearing everything completely apart - on a routine basis.
When does the 10mm show up?? WHEN YOU DON"T NEED IT!!