I already have a king sleigh bed with flat 1x4's running across the width. Also just bought a new Beautyrest Beyond hybrid mattress that is 14.5" thick and my old sleep number plastic blocks will not work at all and isn't even flat across the top surface to support the new mattress design. Building today a base with 2x4's and good 1/2" plywood. I think I will make in 4 separate sections for easy removal.
Great idea, probably way more durable than any of the ones they sell too! Just a tip, if you ever warranty the mattress and they require the use of their boxspring they may ask for pictures of your foundation. Not sure how to circumvent this, guess if you run into issues you could buy their foundation, swap it out for the pictures then return it once they service it. Lol
We just ordered a sleep number.. I have an existing sleigh bed frame that I want to use. I was considering this design since we can't use a regular boxspring. I wouldn't put in the legs like you did in the video, but rather just set the frame designed in this video on top of the three slats with leg supports that are on the existing bed frame. Do you think that would work? And how you keep the sleep number from sliding on the plywood?
I think that should work fine. We ended up getting a sleigh bed this last year and fortunately the frame fit right inside. The mattress does tend to slide little over time. Not a lot in my experience, but occasionally it gets a nudge one way or another. In hind sight I should have dropped the platform an inch or two lower so the sleigh bed frame keeps it from moving. One commenter mentioned he added a 1x4 frame around the platform to prevent sliding in a similar fashion.
Im going to purchase my first sleep number bed this month and I will be using your video as my guide. Pricing the lumber as we speak. I do live in Florida so I will be using the circular drill to punch holes. Very informative and helpful. Im curious if your bed is still holding up three years down the road?
@@marshalmade1567 I purchased the bed in July and no regrets. I followed your instructions for the most part. I did add a few inches to each side and add trim so it wouldn't move. Thanks.
From the research I've done which includes actually calling the mattress company. They almost all recommended having the ability to have air circulating around / into the bottom part of the foam mattress. In other words, potentially having a holes of some kind cut in your platform to allow for air circulation as foam does not absorb or dissipate body moisture that can build up over time. The mattress companies claim that moisture collects in the mattress. How has your bed & base fared in relation to this matter? Have you checked underneath it to see if there's moisture collection anywhere or mildew of any kind? I am considering making one of these bases very soon and value your input, so your fast reply on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Hi! We did not experience any issues with condensation until moving to the east coast.... If you do not live in a low humidity climate, it is a good idea to drill some holes with a hole saw through the plywood top. There would be no compromise to the strength of the platform if you chose to do something like that.
Yea, I'd recommend holes. I've seen a foam mattress with mold underneath because they didn't put holes in the plywood, though this was in an RV conversion so it was probably exposed to more moisture.
I have a sleep number bed. The past few months I have began to get sucked into the middle of the bed. I just took everything off the bed and found a 3 inch gap between the 2 mattresses. Any experience with this issue or resolutions?
I had the same thing. Talked to Sleep Number and they sent a sawtooth looking piece of foam to place in the middle that did absolutely nothing. Finally ended up get a 2x4 and putting it in the middle then put the foam over that. Not perfect, but heck of a lot better than it was. I would never get the split mattress set up again because of this.
I would just do a google search for your specific mattress dimensions and use those for your base. I did find that drilling 1 - 1 1/4" holes through out afterwards helped with ventilation after moving to a more humid location. Good luck!
Dorothy T As long as it doesn’t sag in the middle that may work. There is the possibility of voiding your warranty if your mattress has a problem and the platform isn’t up to the company’s specifications.
It's about 1/2" or close to that. A lot of times they go down to 15/32" thickness or similar. I would recommend drilling 1"to 1.5" holes through the osb as mentioned in the comments below if your area is not low in humidity.
Great idea and instructions!
I love a man that can build
I already have a king sleigh bed with flat 1x4's running across the width. Also just bought a new Beautyrest Beyond hybrid mattress that is 14.5" thick and my old sleep number plastic blocks will not work at all and isn't even flat across the top surface to support the new mattress design.
Building today a base with 2x4's and good 1/2" plywood. I think I will make in 4 separate sections for easy removal.
Great video! Thank you for showing me this can easily be done. Sleep number wants $500 right now for their base. 😲
Great idea, probably way more durable than any of the ones they sell too! Just a tip, if you ever warranty the mattress and they require the use of their boxspring they may ask for pictures of your foundation. Not sure how to circumvent this, guess if you run into issues you could buy their foundation, swap it out for the pictures then return it once they service it. Lol
We just ordered a sleep number.. I have an existing sleigh bed frame that I want to use. I was considering this design since we can't use a regular boxspring. I wouldn't put in the legs like you did in the video, but rather just set the frame designed in this video on top of the three slats with leg supports that are on the existing bed frame. Do you think that would work? And how you keep the sleep number from sliding on the plywood?
I think that should work fine. We ended up getting a sleigh bed this last year and fortunately the frame fit right inside. The mattress does tend to slide little over time. Not a lot in my experience, but occasionally it gets a nudge one way or another. In hind sight I should have dropped the platform an inch or two lower so the sleigh bed frame keeps it from moving. One commenter mentioned he added a 1x4 frame around the platform to prevent sliding in a similar fashion.
I bought the bed room set from bobs but the slats were not good.The mattress is heavy and all the slats are broken
Im going to purchase my first sleep number bed this month and I will be using your video as my guide. Pricing the lumber as we speak. I do live in Florida so I will be using the circular drill to punch holes. Very informative and helpful. Im curious if your bed is still holding up three years down the road?
Yes, It's still going strong!
@@marshalmade1567 I purchased the bed in July and no regrets. I followed your instructions for the most part. I did add a few inches to each side and add trim so it wouldn't move. Thanks.
From the research I've done which includes actually calling the mattress company. They almost all recommended having the ability to have air circulating around / into the bottom part of the foam mattress. In other words, potentially having a holes of some kind cut in your platform to allow for air circulation as foam does not absorb or dissipate body moisture that can build up over time. The mattress companies claim that moisture collects in the mattress. How has your bed & base fared in relation to this matter? Have you checked underneath it to see if there's moisture collection anywhere or mildew of any kind? I am considering making one of these bases very soon and value your input, so your fast reply on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Hi! We did not experience any issues with condensation until moving to the east coast.... If you do not live in a low humidity climate, it is a good idea to drill some holes with a hole saw through the plywood top. There would be no compromise to the strength of the platform if you chose to do something like that.
Yea, I'd recommend holes. I've seen a foam mattress with mold underneath because they didn't put holes in the plywood, though this was in an RV conversion so it was probably exposed to more moisture.
I moved into my place and bought a memory foam mattress with plans to build a platform for underneath it.
The lumber prices went sky high. I figured I would wait for the prices to come down. Didn't want to get a bank loan to buy a 2x4x8 of pine .
So the mattress went directly on the vinyl floor. (Bad idea)
The air-conditioning ran all the time. The floor was cold.
Well now the mattress has mold on the underside. Cold air-conditioning on the floor and hot body temperature don't mix. Mattress,,, condensation,,,mold,,,fu©kn' sh!t!!!
FOR MY NEW mattress and frame...I'm thinking about making 2 thin mattress platforms stacked on top of each other, maybe 3 platforms stacked on top of each other.
Mattress on top.
NEXT:
Surface with vent holes, sheets of plywood or solid wood. Maybe primed pegboard (?)
NEXT:
1.5" inch airspace (the structural wood framing, flat"2 by 3")
NEXT:
Solid surface, probably plywood no vent holes.
NEXT:
1.5" inch airspace (structural wood framing )
NEXT:
Bottom plywood no vent holes
NEXT: 3.5" airspace (structural framing)
NEXT: plywood no vent holes.
Think of a stack of plywood with 2x4's between each sheet.
Hot surface on top piece which is the memory foam mattress. Cold surface on the bottom piece that comes in contact with cold air.
The only vent holes are where the bottom of the mattress comes in contact with the platform.
2 thermal transitioning airlock platforms boxes underneath made of plywood and 2x3's or 2x4's
Mixing the hot temperature of the mattress and the cold air-conditioning room temperature creating a temperature transition to avoid condensation on the mattress bottom which feeds mold (yuk).
Does this layered box need to have the sides insulated inorder to create air temperature transition?
Can a terminal transition be accomplished with just a single box platform? With or without vent holes? Simplifying the design and build.
Mattress.
3/4" or 1/2" plywood, top
1.5" thickness or turned 3.5" flat ways / airspace, middle.
3/4 "or 1/2" plywood bottom.
All maybe sitting on a support frame or the floor?
My thinking is (perhaps a half baked idea?)
Attempting to prevent the mattress to come in contact with cold air on the bottom.
I'm still not ready for the final design. I have to think if it will actually create different air temperature zones.
Do I have to have the mattress enclosed? Making a thermal transition to cooler air. Or do I want the hot air of the mattress vent out?
Do I have to put a mini fan somewhere in the airtight box platform sucking the hot air away from the mattress?
Do I need to insulate the sides of this layerd platform box where the coldest air meets the platforms?
Or will that make the mattress hotter?
Tons of things to investigate in the design.
A real thermal engineering type person will laugh 😂at first but perhaps give me suggestions when they are done chuckling. I'm still learning 🤔🧰👷♂️📐📕🔨
I have a sleep number bed. The past few months I have began to get sucked into the middle of the bed. I just took everything off the bed and found a 3 inch gap between the 2 mattresses. Any experience with this issue or resolutions?
I had the same thing. Talked to Sleep Number and they sent a sawtooth looking piece of foam to place in the middle that did absolutely nothing. Finally ended up get a 2x4 and putting it in the middle then put the foam over that. Not perfect, but heck of a lot better than it was. I would never get the split mattress set up again because of this.
Great video. I would like to do this, but we have a king bed. Do you know where I can find the right dimensions?
I would just do a google search for your specific mattress dimensions and use those for your base. I did find that drilling 1 - 1 1/4" holes through out afterwards helped with ventilation after moving to a more humid location. Good luck!
@@marshalmade1567 Great, thanks!
I thought we needed a slat bed foundation for a foam bed to dissipate heat.
What if you just put 3/4 plywood on top of the box springs, would that work ?
Dorothy T As long as it doesn’t sag in the middle that may work. There is the possibility of voiding your warranty if your mattress has a problem and the platform isn’t up to the company’s specifications.
What's the thickness of your OSB?
It's about 1/2" or close to that. A lot of times they go down to 15/32" thickness or similar. I would recommend drilling 1"to 1.5" holes through the osb as mentioned in the comments below if your area is not low in humidity.
You guys selling it please let me know
Unfortunate not. It is large and pretty heavy.