Hello Andy, can you clarify the cost? Did vw cover part of it since it went bad a little over 120k miles? Or did it cost $1300 US to fix? How long did it take to fix? Thank you in advance
Hi Brian, great video. I just had my HPFP go out on my 2012 Passat TDI. Has 91K miles on it, was running great and then...shuddered a little, lost power, and glow plug light came on. Had it towed to dealer, who told me of a recall on it for HPFP failure, and that it is $0 expense to me (good news!). I was told everything from the pump, to the fuel line, and injectors would be replaced, and I wanted to research the extent of the repair. Your video is great, does a thorough job of articulating what all is involved. Thank you!
It seems like it happens less starting in 2013 models but it still happens. If you want to prevent it, the Cp3 HPFP is said to be much better than the Cp4 that’s stock on our engines. Mine is a 2013 so I’m going to wait till my second timing belt and do the Cp3 upgrade. The only other common problem I’ve seen is turbos going out due to the wear from emissions gear. The valves don’t seem to get too bad with deposits on these CR TDIs like some CR engines do. I always wanted one since I saw the TDI cup races when the engine was new. I love the way it drives and I’m hoping for 600k miles if not more with no major issue.
Just lost HPFP on 2010 Touareg, so glad the it’s all covered under extended warranty. They told me they are replacing the whole fuel system. 17 parts. Let’s see how it goes.
Classic cp4 pump. Even the new ram trucks are going back to cp3 with a recall. Just sucks with how expensive this is. I do know there is a metering bypass kit which in a scenario where your pump fails it will not send metal to your injectors. All that would need to be replaced is your hpfp and clean the fuel tank out. Unless you get a kit where it has a fuel filter before and after the hpfp.
Coastalguy2010 asked below if you can just replace the pump and nothing else. I just tried that on a customers car because she has to turn it in to VW for the buyback. I needs to run under it own power for them to buy it back ,which make no sense knowing all the issues there having with these HPFP failures. The car is a 2010 golf TDI with 160k so it's not covered. I also change the fuel filter cleaned out the tank and lines. Unfortunately the car just cranks and does not start. I have 10 psi pressure from the in tank pump at the fuel filter and I have 45 psi pressure to the feed line directly at the HPFP. After priming all the pump with the VCDS Then I crank the car and monitor the high fuel pressure in the rail it only reaches 8 bar. So I'm going to replace the injectors tomorrow, what confuses me is that if there were bad injectors (clogged or defective ) I would think the car would still develop the proper high fuel pressure or am I mistaken?
How did u go about cleaning the fuel tank?Id I can get the tank down like u did I would like to clean it the best I can instead of replacing it. I have a dead Sportwagen I'm thinking of gathering as much info before I start this headache.
gmanxray yes it worked just as new after replacing the pumps and injectors and cleaning everything else. The challenging part was priming the fuel system without diagnostic software. For that I just hard wired both electric pumps to run for a bit (20 seconds or so, rested, and again 20 seconds) and it cranked right up.
@@kiellish Wow, that's awesome. Are you a mechanic? Do you have a shop? If so where? Or would you be willing to share the list of all the parts you replaced i can give you my email. By diagnostic tool im assuming you're speaking of vcds. I have it. I have changed the fuel filter before. It was fairly easy to prime the fuel lines with it. I know this is may not be the most convenient way to communicate, would it be easier to communicate by email or phone (id feel better giving you my number by email though)? Im desperate. Anyhow, if you can't, it's cool i understand, the video is more than ive seen, very helpful. Thank you
Hi Brian. I just had this failure on my 2011 VW Jetta TDI. A mechanic said he can clean the injectors. We just purchased the HPFP and filters and hoses. I told him I saw a video where they say the injectors must be replaced. He said no. He will just clean them. How true is what he says? We also purchased the timing belt and water pump.
I took the injectors to a place that specializes in cleaning/building injectors and they did their best, but I had to buy new ones. They told me they couldn’t be salvaged. If you find that they can be cleaned, provide us with some details! Best of luck with your repair. The dealer will replace the fuel tank out of an abundance of caution, if you are reusing it be sure to clean it out really well before installing the new fuel pumps.
There is nothing to orient the piston in the bore. The piston and roller stays oriented in the bore by the pressure and friction of the pump's cam lobe as it spins. It works fine until it doesn't anymore. . You have to add lubricity to your fuel if you live in America or you run the risk of this happening. The quality control of adding lubricity to the fuel as it is delivered from the retail pumps in the U.S. is so poor it's ridiculous. A couple of tankfulls of low lubricity fuel or gasoline contaminated fuel will take out this pump.
if this happens while the vehicle writhing basic factory warranty? mine just started to make the ticking noise not on idle. and I live in Canada. dealership tells me it's normal in Canada and they showed me another car with same mileage making the noise. mine is 2011 with 82km
+donnyguns1 Yours would qualify under the extended warranty. Call your dealer and give them your VIN. They'll tell you if it qualifies for any extended warranties, particularly the HPFP. Also, ask about if the misfueling guard applies to your car. If you want to be covered under that warranty if your pump goes out, then ask about the misfuelling guard to be installed since without it, they won't cover it.
You can remove the lifter assembly on the pump and inspect the cam as well without too much work. It's just four screws and it lifts out and exposes everything. See the breakdown in the video. However, you have some time before the warranty extension expires, so don't worry too much.
hey how's it going. I was watching your video because a friend of mine has a sport wagon with the same fault. It ran but with reduced power, so I replaced the hpfp and bled the system but now it won't start. I'm almost 100% sure the injectors are clogged, it showed ALL of your symptoms. how did you remove the injectors, do I have to get any special tools for that step? thanks.
Vinny B hey man, yea it sounds like the injectors are clogged. They are easy to remove with normal tools - box wrench for the lines and I think a 5mm Allen for the injector screws. They are held down with brackets below the silver plates you see on the top of the valve cover. Remove the small Allen head bolts, twist the silver oil seals 90 degrees and remove the lower retainers, and pull up the plates and injectors together. Remove the lines and connectors beforehand though, and be careful when relieving the pressure in the common rail. Also, basically everything after the pump will have remaining debris that will clog the new injectors, so it's important to disassemble and clean all that out as well.
Brian Kiellish thanx for the reply, yeah I removed the whole thing all the Libes and cleaned them out with brake parts cleaner and compressed air. then I primed the system and attempted to start it, but will not start now. I'm going to check the tank and see if there's any metal in there. she's going g to get injectors for it but I just couldn't figure out how to take them off, its pretty jammed in there.
well the HPFP is filled, the injector rail and lines I primed using the inline pump, but I'm not sure if there is pressuer at the rail. I have no CEL on or anything so I'm guessing that the pressure is right. Is there another way to test the PSI at the rail?
Yeah that Sucks, Buying used one soon md did a lot of research on the CP4 design (Smh) and the issues with lubricity. The CP4 design is only part of the issue. My plan upgrade to a CP3 pump, install a water separator/10 micron pre filter and 2 micron main filter. Still doing research on the best system that can be installed on the vehicle. I plan on contacting Fass diesel systems they have some of the best stuff out there but designed mainly for trucks. The CP4 failure also happening with The Big Three’s pickups also. Address both know issues, the pump and reducing water, air and increasing lubricity. There’s no smoking gun but it you start off on the wrong foot …. rivrdog.typepad.com/files/copy-of-diesel-fuel-additive-version-3.pdf
CP3 Mod makes that engine last forever. change that and all the HPFP problems are gone. Also Biofuels work on that pump as well. at least b20 and such. still would use additive.
My VW Jetta TDI 2010 is experiencing this right now. Happened on June 6, glow plug sensor came on while rolling up to an intersection, and the car died. Wouldn't start again. Towed to dealership where they discovered metal in the fuel, (I've got 134k miles on it and had it since it was new, I've never put gasoline in my diesel). They said the high pressure fuel pump is broken. They "test" the fuel and claimed the fuel is contaminated and so it won't be covered under warranty (VW gave me warranty on the entire fuel system after the emissions scandal). My car has been there ever since and I have a government agency who has collected some fuel to test, and am working to get a sample sent to a third-party. The tricky part is to get it done in a way that VW can't claim I tampered with the fuel, so that's been a headache. Anyway, I have never put gasoline in my fuel, and just the fact I had driven almost 400 MILES on this tank of diesel before the car stalled and died, proves that. Hoping this gets resolved soon and is fixed under warranty because I'm not spending 7k+ Dollars on the entire fuel system when it's just going to break again. I bought this car in 2010 because it was a diesel and these diesel engines are supposed to last 500k miles!!!
I guess we are in the same situation. I'm in Canada and here is my story, I hope we can shame VW in Media. I'm trying to build my case. I got a story for all TDI owner that you would not believe. Just recently I had HPFP failure on my 2013 Passat TDI about 2 months aprox 10,000 kms after the emissions fix. It was the classic failure glow plug lights flashing loosing power quickly to never start again. Searched on the internet and used VCDS to scan the car and confirmed that HPFP has failed. I called the dealership and they said HPFP and fuel system is covered under Emissions fix extended warranty (Canada). The only time it will not covered if they find fuel contamination. I thought I would be extra careful After I heard so much about VW finding an escape goat and not to covering things under Warranty. I drained the fuel tank (which I tested was 100% diesel) and there is no way I will miss fuel my TDI as this is my 3rd TDI. I remember filling up at the ESSO gas station and their was Sprinter guy waiting behind me to finish so that he can fill his tank. Anyways I emptied the tank using VCDS and running the pump. After that I went to another gas station and bought 23 liters of Diesel fuel in the can and dumped it in the tank. Cleaned the fuel filter reservoir and change the filter. Next day I Called VW road side assistance and had the vehicle to towed to the dealer. After couple of days I called the dealer as I had no update from them. The service advisor told me that they smell gas in my tank. I said there is no way and went to see the car. When the showed me the tank with fuel pump removed (under the rear seat), I told them how come it seems like its more than quarter of tank. They said that they had to top it up in order to troubleshoot. I asked them what kind of troubleshooting is this, that it needs more than 1/4 of tank. They insisted that it smell of petrol and it may be that I had put gas instead of diesel in the car. I told them that this car has filler neck to stop a gas nozzle from fueling the car. I asked them to do fuel analysis and let me know the results. I called them a couple of days later and the service rep told me that VW was coming to get fuel for analysis. After that I did not hear back from them. I called them again as its now approaching two weeks since they have my car in the shop and no rental was provided to me. They tell me that the service rep is not at her desk and they will get back to me. So finally at the end of day on Friday I call them again and ask to talk to the service rep and she told me that the car would not covered under warranty as it has contaminated fuel (petrol mixed with diesel). I told them that I need to talk to the service manager. When I talke dto him I had few basic questions for him. How did you come to the conclusion that the fuel is contaminated and why did your shop mechanic felt a need to add more fuel to the tank. I gave the car with 1/4 tank of fuel and now its past 1/2 tank. He had no answers for me and told me to talk to my Insurance company. I went and confronted him and still he had no answers. I asked for report on the fuel and he said they don't have any, all they know is that fuel is contaminated. I had my car towed to my home the same day and started documented everything. I did the fuel test with Styrofoam cup and found that it had petrol in it. I did the same test on original fuel that I had saved and no traces of petrol. I once again drained the fuel and refueled and sent it to different dealership and waiting on the response. I have video tapped everything on draining and drying the tank and then refueling with new diesel. Also have the Styrofoam tests on video. I'm so mad at VW dealership and will be brining out my story to the Media. Hopefully its only one bad dealer and not the VW itself. We will see... I will keep everyone posted. I keep on remembering the VW CEO statement, We have to build the trust again.. yeah right.
The engine is fine it’s just the fuel system. A Cp3 fuel pump upgrade will prevent it. Unfortunately for a few reasons the job isn’t super cheap either unless you do it yourself. Alternatively you can get these engines form crashed cars under 60k miles for $500-900 which is already cheaper than four new injectors and you have a bunch of other spare parts then. The injectors are really great Piezoelectric tech but they are definitely expensive if damaged. The engine is surprisingly easy to work on when you get used to it but most people have to pay someone to do anything past basic maintenance and labor costs are more than the parts.
@@navsidhu4087 I don't know why I'm just now seeing this, but it sounds like to me, that THEY are the ones that added gasoline to your car! In my case, they had my car for almost 90 days. They eventually did a "goodwill" and paid for labor and VW paid for parts but they refused to fix mine under warranty. It's so ridiculous. And as soon as I had the repaired car back, I told them about this weird buzzing sound that wasn't there before. I told them it has to be related to the HPFP fix, because it only started after they repaired it. They misdiagnosed things until I convinced a different VW dealership to look at the fuel line, and lo and behold, they had installed the fuel line BACKWARDS. I'm done buying volkswagen.
@@MLBuckProductions Did the buzzing sound occur only after the engine reached normal operating temperature? We are experiencing a buzzing sound after warmup on our A3 TDI after gas was added to the diesel when refueled by a friend and driven only about 2 miles. No metal filings were found in fuel system. No error codes. Dealer replaced fuel pumps other than the HPFP, removed contaminated fuel, cleaned fuel lines.
just happened to my JSW, i'm in for about a $5000 repair at an independent vw shop since i'm out of the dieselgate warranty. tried to appeal to VW to get some help, to no avail. i think it's a totally insane bill for a jetta. also wasting about a grand on a rental car since parts are delayed due to weather. been such a nice car till now.
If I would have known this before I purchased my 2014 passat I wouldn't had purchased it. I go 16,300 miles right now and I'm going to get rid of this garbage and go back to a Toyota Camry before it is to late. Great video
thx for this video. the same happens to me. they also told me, i used gasoline... this is fucking wrong, this fuel pump ist just wrong construated!!! 90.000 miles -hah!!!
Yes there is "something you can do" to reduce the risk of this happening. Your pump got taken out by low lubricity fuel. The quality control of American diesel fuel sucks. You need to add lubricity additive to every tank or you're simply trusting that "enough" lubricant got added to the fuel at the retail pump. You're crazy if you simply trust the quality control of fuel without adding lubricant. The U.S. 520um fuel scar standard sucks to start with (these pumps live forever on 400um fuel (lower numbers are better) and even our 520um U.S. standard quality control isn't up to snuff.
I'd have to agree, my 09 A4 has the CAHA engine same set up as here, 350,000 kms no problems, im a mechanic here in Ireland the 2.0 CR engines are very reliable. The Bosch cp4 is not as rugged as the cp3 however thats bulletproof. Also the 1.6tdi CAYC engines with the Siemens/ Conti pumps are extremely rugged have a taxi client with 720,000kms on his skoda supreme 2012 1.6tdi. You need to check your diesel, here we only see catastrophic failure after a misfuel condition with petrol.
So the part that started to go out first was the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP). Then how did the metal particles get into the tank to ruin the rest of the pumps? Was it through the return line? If so, is there a filter we can put on the return line to prevent at least the metal from ruining the two lift pumps? It's bad enough to have to replace so much... Is there not a special tool to remove the injectors?
There's no tool to remove the injectors, they're held down by a spring bracket and some small screws with 5mm Allen heads. It would be beneficial to install a filter on the return line to keep the debris out of the fuel tank, but it's not terrible to clean out and in my opinion not entirely necessary to replace. The ideal place for a filter would be right after the hpfp, but the extreme pressures create a problem.
Ugh my 2011 Golf just died today. Started flashing the glow plug light and de-rated. Then the MIL lit up with DTC's P0087,P1004,P1005,P1006,P1007,P0200. Haven't had a chance to look any further yet but no doubt it's the same failure. Sounds like it's going to be expensive. Thanks for the video man, well done!
I just bought a 2011 MK6 TDI 133,200 miles. I've got a HPFP, Inline Fuel Pump, In tank Fuel Pump fuel filter all ready to do the maintenance Monday. Already put in the Amsoil Injector cleaner, 2 bottles on the first tank, I'm running another bottle on the second tank before I drop it off for Fuel system maintenance. It's getting timing belt, water pump Oil pump Chain replace Harmonic balancer replace. Serpentine belt replace to include all tensioners, and associated pulleys. The ticket also includes Neuspeed turbo diffuser delete, and a performance Turbo inlet pipe. Already did the Engine And Transmission Flush, Power Foam intake turbo cleaner sprayed, changed Lubricants to Amsoil. New Air filter, in-cabin filter, Transmission filter, oil filter. New 17/235/45 Continental Tires, Fresh Alignment, Upgraded to Velt Sport Motor Mounts. This bad boy is better-taken care of than Kobe Beef Cows.
You’d think with such an obvious design flaw that VW could at the very least make the parts to replace more affordable. I will always be using a fuel additive and probably will plan to replace the pump at every timing belt change. If the pump frags before that maybe I’ll look into an ALH swap...has that been done on an MK6?
Hey so the same issue happened with my 2012 Volkswagen Jetta TDI and I replaced the HPFP and the car still didn’t start up so I’m getting my fuel injectors replaced now and I’m worried if I replaced those and the car still doesn’t run what else could be the problem then ?
I wish I could fix mine. Been sitting 3 years now because of this. I want to get it back up and running but at this point she’s a goner and I’m just gonna have to scrap it.
They're saying biodiesel is similar effect as the gasoline and early detonation of the fuel pump what do you think because here in California most of our diesel is biodiesel
Many failures reported on TDICLUB.COM for all years. Vw increased/added the pump to 120k mile warranty in october 2015. That car would have been fixed for free if under 120k miles.Great learning experience, thanks for sharing. In addition to the parts you are replacing, the tank and fuel lines are being replaced at dealers,they would not be able to guarantee all metal bits were removed by cleaning, and how will you.?. Get the filter kit from 3micron to catch the metal the next time.. and there will be a next time!
I have 235k miles on 2010 Sportwagen. No issues with the HPFP - yet. I haven't done anything except try and avoid Bio Diesel. Sometimes I have no choice but to use it though.
I'm about to replace the hpfp on my 14 jetta. Are you saying $2500 just in parts? I need to know what all told are required for all this stuff. I need to get this running for the buyback. pain in the ASS!
If you replace all its not needed because they normall wear evenly. But if you replace less and install new one it's better to code them so it adjust to the wear of the others.
Exact same thing happened to my 2011 tdi sportwagen a few weeks ago. Dealership did everything under warranty and I'm at 126k miles. I had the emissions modification done a few years back, not sure if they are related but I'm sure glad all this stuff was covered by Volkswagen!
The pump failed on my A3 a few days ago. My car is set to be turned into VW as part of the Class Action settlement in 15 days. They are requiring that the car be driven in on it's own power. After it's turned in they are required to render it undriveable. Any suggestion on minimal work to get it to work for 15 - 20 mins? Can I just replace the pump and let the rest self destruct?
This is on a VW TDI engine. High Pressure Fuel Pumps (HPFP), Pump a fluid called Fuel, in this case diesel fuel. Your Mini Cooper is probably a little different. Learn how it works and what it specifically has, to then find parts and tools for the job. You are the main tool for the job so sharpen up and the others will fall in. Good luck brother! Also, do you have any exclusive VW stuff down there that you would trade for some American stuff?
You will have to completely empty all the fuel and remove the tank and all sensors/pump. Then manually clean loose debris out and then what I have done is spray degreaser and let it sit for a few minutes. Then wipe or spray it out and repeat until you can take a clean white cloth to it and nothing sticks to it. You will have to be extremely meticulous because you won't want to do this again. Also, fill up with high quality fuel when the tanks at the station at not being refilled or just have been. The sediment that this kicks up in the bottom of the diesel tank at a station is absolutely absurd. This is what causes the wear on these pumps.
@@DenverRoyer No problem at all. It really sucks and that's why I am upgrading to a CP3 pump on my next timing belt service. They do not have the metallurgy issues that our CP4.1 pumps have. The conversion kit is worth the $800 and they flow twice the amount that the stock pump does... not that I plan on racing my daily.
Same exact thing. Glow plug error > shut off > Glow plug error > engine light. Luckily it sounds like no particles got in my engine and it was covered under warranty... would have been a 2.4k repair here in the Carolina's and it happened at around 88k miles. Any thoughts on Turbo failures in these? I'm sure that'll be next..
I put all the fuel system from a 09 jetta tdi to my 11 jetta tdi. parts were identical but now it won't start. it started once for about 5 seconds and died. it sounded pretty healthy like everything was working great for only 5 seconds. now it still cranks healthy but won't start. what could be the issue?
Igor Sirbu It sounds like your fuel system needs to be primed. It can be done with software or some scanners if you have that option. If you're like me, you don't have that expensive equipment. I ran some wires from the battery to both electric fuel pumps and ran them for about 30 seconds. Then shut off, ran again for another 15 seconds or so and repeated this process a few more times. It fired up relatively quickly after this process, about 5 seconds or so of cranking.
Brian Kiellish thank you for quick reply. I primed the fuel with Delphi software and it sounded like both fuel pumps (the aux, and the interior one) were running. did it at least three times before starting. will try to do it manually as you mentioned. maybe the Delphi software is not good enough. thanks again!
Igor Sirbu any time! Listen to the pumps running, you will hear air rushing through and being purged if any remains. If you hear a nice consistent hum from the pumps and lines, it's most likely good to go. If it ran good for 5 seconds and died, it could be a security issue involving the immobilizer. Is the security light flashing?
the issue was in the hpfp itself. it had a microscopic dirt inside it. I removed the head of the pump into pieces, cleaned it up, put it back, primed for 3 times and it started right away. all this thanks to 2micron from tdi club. I would have never thought about this. cheers!
Igor Sirbu great news. Glad you figured it out. That's also the easiest way to examine the condition of the pump - by removing that top assembly. Where was the dirt and what was it blocking?
The reason they fail is that most western countries only allow the sale of low sulfur diesel these days. The sulfur in diesel fuel is the primary source of lubricity. So now its been removed and the common rail systems are working at higher pressures than ever, its no wonder they go out. That and frankly VW just isn't the best quality. The Asian made diesels are pretty much the best these days and even they aren't very good. Probably the best diesel engines on the market are the Honda and the Toyota AD engines (which weren't even that great and are no longer made). Most of the other popular diesel engines are junk. Like the BMW N47 engine that snaps the chain after 70-80,000 miles. BMW claimed to have "fixed" the problem but the chains are still snapping. The reason they snap is a design problem. Toyota have actually signed an agreement with BMW to use this engine in their vehicles... These days the Peugeot (PSA) 1.6 HDI engines are also in Ford vehicles (known as TDCI) and Volvo's. These have a lovely fault where the Turbine in the turbo charger which is aluminium likes to shred into a million pieces and coat the inside of the engine with aluminuim swarf. Which is pretty much a death sentence for the longevity of the engine even with repair. The 1.8 Ford diesel is a pretty weak engine. I don't know anyone who has gotten more life out of one than its 1.8 petrol equivalent. I must admit I'm in the dark about the 2.0 diesel they use. The GM diesel's sold in Vauxhall/Opel vehicles i don't have much experience of. I know a few Mercedes drivers who are on engine No. 2 in vehicles that are less than 10 years old.
***** Honda diesels or the older Toyota AD engine diesels (I believe there were 1.8/2.0 and 2.2 models). If you can find an ancient 1.9 PD engined VW like a Golf or Passat. Those are capable of 300,000 miles generally. Ancient Peugeot's with DW8 diesels were pretty damn good. The older BMW diesels with the M47 was a fairly decent engine. There was also an older 5 cylinder diesel engine made by BMW that was pretty good. In the UK and European market the Landrover Discovery and Defender were made with the TD5 engine. That is probably the best engine that Landrover ever made. Its not great but its an old fashioned design from Rover in the 80's. Plenty of parts in scrap yards in the UK. The engines are well worth rebuilding even though most have had a hard life.
Ftrt Rpih man that sucks. Sorry to hear that. In that case you'll need to perform the repair shown in the video. The only thing you could probably avoid buying is the injector lines as long as you're careful to not damage the mating surfaces. The injectors will surely be clogged if the pump is similarly damaged.
No, the dealer only sells the pump as a whole. You would technically need the camshaft and lifter most importantly. However, other parts of the pump would still be exposed to the floating debris, it's best to replace the whole thing.
Mark Benoit no scan tool required. Just disconnect the battery before unplugging any electrical connectors. A scan tool would make priming the fuel pumps easier, but I did it just by running wires from the battery. I've been told the scan tool software will run the pumps for a period of time, rest and run again to get air pockets out. I didn't really experience any trouble manually running them, I primed them for maybe 15 or 20 seconds at first, rested for a few seconds and then let them both run for about a minute until I heard no air in the system. There's no need to code any parts, everything works as soon as you prime the fuel pumps.
It's a heartbreaking fault. I was very stoked to buy a TDI recently until hearing about the HPFP issues echoed by so many people on forums. Despite how incredible the car was to test drive, I can't risk a repair like that, because I'd planned to drive it to 300k miles or so... even the 2013 models that supposedly have a better HPFP still have been reported to fail. Looks like I'll be getting the 2.5 model instead (sadface)
dude i really dont know what have you been doing like seriously !?!?! WTF on my jetta I have done nothing but regular maintenance and currently i have 285k miles well regular lol i got the car with 113k miles since than did water pump and timing belt at 190 DMF at 200k and jetta drives like a dream ive never had a car least me 300k miles but damn for a good reason wherever I go with my car they call it a yunicorn
VW warranty covers this to 120,000 miles. Ours went out at 120,551 miles in Mexico. cost 13,00 parts and labor to fix there.
Hello Andy, can you clarify the cost? Did vw cover part of it since it went bad a little over 120k miles? Or did it cost $1300 US to fix? How long did it take to fix? Thank you in advance
Hi Brian, great video. I just had my HPFP go out on my 2012 Passat TDI. Has 91K miles on it, was running great and then...shuddered a little, lost power, and glow plug light came on. Had it towed to dealer, who told me of a recall on it for HPFP failure, and that it is $0 expense to me (good news!). I was told everything from the pump, to the fuel line, and injectors would be replaced, and I wanted to research the extent of the repair. Your video is great, does a thorough job of articulating what all is involved. Thank you!
David Ryan how did the car perform post repair?
It seems like it happens less starting in 2013 models but it still happens. If you want to prevent it, the Cp3 HPFP is said to be much better than the Cp4 that’s stock on our engines. Mine is a 2013 so I’m going to wait till my second timing belt and do the Cp3 upgrade. The only other common problem I’ve seen is turbos going out due to the wear from emissions gear. The valves don’t seem to get too bad with deposits on these CR TDIs like some CR engines do. I always wanted one since I saw the TDI cup races when the engine was new. I love the way it drives and I’m hoping for 600k miles if not more with no major issue.
Just lost HPFP on 2010 Touareg, so glad the it’s all covered under extended warranty. They told me they are replacing the whole fuel system. 17 parts. Let’s see how it goes.
Classic cp4 pump. Even the new ram trucks are going back to cp3 with a recall. Just sucks with how expensive this is. I do know there is a metering bypass kit which in a scenario where your pump fails it will not send metal to your injectors. All that would need to be replaced is your hpfp and clean the fuel tank out. Unless you get a kit where it has a fuel filter before and after the hpfp.
Coastalguy2010 asked below if you can just replace the pump and nothing else. I just tried that on a customers car because she has to turn it in to VW for the buyback. I needs to run under it own power for them to buy it back ,which make no sense knowing all the issues there having with these HPFP failures. The car is a 2010 golf TDI with 160k so it's not covered. I also change the fuel filter cleaned out the tank and lines. Unfortunately the car just cranks and does not start. I have 10 psi pressure from the in tank pump at the fuel filter and I have 45 psi pressure to the feed line directly at the HPFP. After priming all the pump with the VCDS Then I crank the car and monitor the high fuel pressure in the rail it only reaches 8 bar. So I'm going to replace the injectors tomorrow, what confuses me is that if there were bad injectors (clogged or defective ) I would think the car would still develop the proper high fuel pressure or am I mistaken?
How did u go about cleaning the fuel tank?Id I can get the tank down like u did I would like to clean it the best I can instead of replacing it. I have a dead Sportwagen I'm thinking of gathering as much info before I start this headache.
Have you heard about a Bosch cp3 pump retro fit kit?
Is this a CP1?
Matt Herold no, it’s a CP4.1
Does the exhaust need to be removed to get the fuel tank out
Great way to end the video.
Hi Brian, i know its been awhile since you made this video, but i want to know, were you able to fix this car?
gmanxray yes it worked just as new after replacing the pumps and injectors and cleaning everything else. The challenging part was priming the fuel system without diagnostic software. For that I just hard wired both electric pumps to run for a bit (20 seconds or so, rested, and again 20 seconds) and it cranked right up.
@@kiellish Wow, that's awesome. Are you a mechanic? Do you have a shop? If so where? Or would you be willing to share the list of all the parts you replaced i can give you my email. By diagnostic tool im assuming you're speaking of vcds. I have it. I have changed the fuel filter before. It was fairly easy to prime the fuel lines with it. I know this is may not be the most convenient way to communicate, would it be easier to communicate by email or phone (id feel better giving you my number by email though)? Im desperate. Anyhow, if you can't, it's cool i understand, the video is more than ive seen, very helpful. Thank you
Hi Brian. I just had this failure on my 2011 VW Jetta TDI. A mechanic said he can clean the injectors. We just purchased the HPFP and filters and hoses. I told him I saw a video where they say the injectors must be replaced. He said no. He will just clean them. How true is what he says? We also purchased the timing belt and water pump.
I took the injectors to a place that specializes in cleaning/building injectors and they did their best, but I had to buy new ones. They told me they couldn’t be salvaged. If you find that they can be cleaned, provide us with some details! Best of luck with your repair. The dealer will replace the fuel tank out of an abundance of caution, if you are reusing it be sure to clean it out really well before installing the new fuel pumps.
Do you know the fuel tank pump pressure specs Jetta tdi ?
Hi It looks like the lifter turned sideways. Was it assembled improperly?
There is nothing to orient the piston in the bore. The piston and roller stays oriented in the bore by the pressure and friction of the pump's cam lobe as it spins. It works fine until it doesn't anymore. .
You have to add lubricity to your fuel if you live in America or you run the risk of this happening. The quality control of adding lubricity to the fuel as it is delivered from the retail pumps in the U.S. is so poor it's ridiculous. A couple of tankfulls of low lubricity fuel or gasoline contaminated fuel will take out this pump.
if this happens while the vehicle writhing basic factory warranty? mine just started to make the ticking noise not on idle. and I live in Canada. dealership tells me it's normal in Canada and they showed me another car with same mileage making the noise. mine is 2011 with 82km
+donnyguns1 Yours would qualify under the extended warranty. Call your dealer and give them your VIN. They'll tell you if it qualifies for any extended warranties, particularly the HPFP. Also, ask about if the misfueling guard applies to your car. If you want to be covered under that warranty if your pump goes out, then ask about the misfuelling guard to be installed since without it, they won't cover it.
You can remove the lifter assembly on the pump and inspect the cam as well without too much work. It's just four screws and it lifts out and exposes everything. See the breakdown in the video. However, you have some time before the warranty extension expires, so don't worry too much.
I really don't see that much value in direct injection ...... To many problems for the tiny bit of efficiency gains!
hey how's it going. I was watching your video because a friend of mine has a sport wagon with the same fault. It ran but with reduced power, so I replaced the hpfp and bled the system but now it won't start. I'm almost 100% sure the injectors are clogged, it showed ALL of your symptoms. how did you remove the injectors, do I have to get any special tools for that step? thanks.
Vinny B hey man, yea it sounds like the injectors are clogged. They are easy to remove with normal tools - box wrench for the lines and I think a 5mm Allen for the injector screws. They are held down with brackets below the silver plates you see on the top of the valve cover. Remove the small Allen head bolts, twist the silver oil seals 90 degrees and remove the lower retainers, and pull up the plates and injectors together. Remove the lines and connectors beforehand though, and be careful when relieving the pressure in the common rail. Also, basically everything after the pump will have remaining debris that will clog the new injectors, so it's important to disassemble and clean all that out as well.
Brian Kiellish thanx for the reply, yeah I removed the whole thing all the Libes and cleaned them out with brake parts cleaner and compressed air. then I primed the system and attempted to start it, but will not start now. I'm going to check the tank and see if there's any metal in there. she's going g to get injectors for it but I just couldn't figure out how to take them off, its pretty jammed in there.
Vinny B as long as you're sure it's fully primed then it's most likely the injectors. I got mine from the dealer for about 250 each.
well the HPFP is filled, the injector rail and lines I primed using the inline pump, but I'm not sure if there is pressuer at the rail. I have no CEL on or anything so I'm guessing that the pressure is right. Is there another way to test the PSI at the rail?
Great info thanks
Shame on VAG VW Audi, they know the issue and do nothing to help their customers, this pump should be replaced within warranty !
Yeah that Sucks, Buying used one soon md did a lot of research on the CP4 design (Smh) and the issues with lubricity. The CP4 design is only part of the issue. My plan upgrade to a CP3 pump, install a water separator/10 micron pre filter and 2 micron main filter. Still doing research on the best system that can be installed on the vehicle. I plan on contacting Fass diesel systems they have some of the best stuff out there but designed mainly for trucks. The CP4 failure also happening with The Big Three’s pickups also. Address both know issues, the pump and reducing water, air and increasing lubricity. There’s no smoking gun but it you start off on the wrong foot ….
rivrdog.typepad.com/files/copy-of-diesel-fuel-additive-version-3.pdf
CP3 Mod makes that engine last forever. change that and all the HPFP problems are gone. Also Biofuels work on that pump as well. at least b20 and such. still would use additive.
My VW Jetta TDI 2010 is experiencing this right now. Happened on June 6, glow plug sensor came on while rolling up to an intersection, and the car died. Wouldn't start again. Towed to dealership where they discovered metal in the fuel, (I've got 134k miles on it and had it since it was new, I've never put gasoline in my diesel). They said the high pressure fuel pump is broken. They "test" the fuel and claimed the fuel is contaminated and so it won't be covered under warranty (VW gave me warranty on the entire fuel system after the emissions scandal). My car has been there ever since and I have a government agency who has collected some fuel to test, and am working to get a sample sent to a third-party. The tricky part is to get it done in a way that VW can't claim I tampered with the fuel, so that's been a headache. Anyway, I have never put gasoline in my fuel, and just the fact I had driven almost 400 MILES on this tank of diesel before the car stalled and died, proves that. Hoping this gets resolved soon and is fixed under warranty because I'm not spending 7k+ Dollars on the entire fuel system when it's just going to break again. I bought this car in 2010 because it was a diesel and these diesel engines are supposed to last 500k miles!!!
I guess we are in the same situation. I'm in Canada and here is my story, I hope we can shame VW in Media. I'm trying to build my case.
I got a
story for all TDI owner that you would not believe. Just recently I had
HPFP failure on my 2013 Passat TDI about 2 months aprox 10,000 kms after
the emissions fix. It was the classic failure glow plug lights flashing
loosing power quickly to never start again. Searched on the internet and
used VCDS to scan the car and confirmed that HPFP has failed. I called
the dealership and they said HPFP and fuel system is covered under Emissions
fix extended warranty (Canada). The only time it will not
covered if they find fuel contamination.
I thought I would be
extra careful After I heard so much about VW finding an escape
goat and not to covering things under Warranty.
I drained the fuel tank (which I tested was 100% diesel) and there is no
way I will miss fuel my TDI as this is my 3rd TDI. I remember
filling up at the ESSO gas station and their was Sprinter guy waiting behind me
to finish so that he can fill his tank. Anyways I emptied the tank
using VCDS and running the pump. After that I went to another gas
station and bought 23 liters of Diesel fuel in the can and dumped it
in the tank. Cleaned the fuel filter reservoir and change the filter.
Next day I Called VW
road side assistance and had the vehicle to towed to the dealer. After
couple of days I called the dealer as I had no update from them. The
service advisor told me that they smell gas in my tank. I said there is
no way and went to see the car. When the showed me the tank with fuel
pump removed (under the rear seat), I told them how come it seems like its more
than quarter of tank. They said that they had to top it up in order to
troubleshoot. I asked them what kind of troubleshooting is this, that it
needs more than 1/4 of tank. They insisted that it smell of petrol and it
may be that I had put gas instead of diesel in the car. I told them that
this car has filler neck to stop a gas nozzle from fueling the car.
I asked them to do fuel analysis and let me know the results.
I called them a
couple of days later and the service rep told me that VW was coming to get fuel
for analysis. After that I did not hear back from them. I called
them again as its now approaching two weeks since they have my car in the shop
and no rental was provided to me. They tell me that the service rep is
not at her desk and they will get back to me. So finally at the end of day
on Friday I call them again and ask to talk to the service rep and she told me
that the car would not covered under warranty as it has contaminated fuel
(petrol mixed with diesel). I told them that I need to talk to the
service manager. When I talke dto him I had few basic questions for
him. How did you come to the conclusion that the fuel is contaminated and
why did your shop mechanic felt a need to add more fuel to the tank. I
gave the car with 1/4 tank of fuel and now its past 1/2 tank. He had no
answers for me and told me to talk to my Insurance company. I went and
confronted him and still he had no answers. I asked for report on the
fuel and he said they don't have any, all they know is that fuel is
contaminated.
I had my car towed
to my home the same day and started documented everything. I did the
fuel test with Styrofoam cup and found that it had petrol in it. I did
the same test on original fuel that I had saved and no traces of petrol.
I once again drained the fuel and refueled and sent it to different
dealership and waiting on the response. I have video tapped
everything on draining and drying the tank and then refueling with new
diesel. Also have the Styrofoam tests on video.
I'm so mad at VW dealership and will be brining out my story to the
Media. Hopefully its only one bad dealer and not the VW itself. We
will see... I will keep everyone posted.
I keep on remembering the VW CEO statement, We have to build the
trust again.. yeah right.
The engine is fine it’s just the fuel system. A Cp3 fuel pump upgrade will prevent it. Unfortunately for a few reasons the job isn’t super cheap either unless you do it yourself. Alternatively you can get these engines form crashed cars under 60k miles for $500-900 which is already cheaper than four new injectors and you have a bunch of other spare parts then. The injectors are really great Piezoelectric tech but they are definitely expensive if damaged. The engine is surprisingly easy to work on when you get used to it but most people have to pay someone to do anything past basic maintenance and labor costs are more than the parts.
@@navsidhu4087 I don't know why I'm just now seeing this, but it sounds like to me, that THEY are the ones that added gasoline to your car!
In my case, they had my car for almost 90 days. They eventually did a "goodwill" and paid for labor and VW paid for parts but they refused to fix mine under warranty. It's so ridiculous.
And as soon as I had the repaired car back, I told them about this weird buzzing sound that wasn't there before. I told them it has to be related to the HPFP fix, because it only started after they repaired it. They misdiagnosed things until I convinced a different VW dealership to look at the fuel line, and lo and behold, they had installed the fuel line BACKWARDS.
I'm done buying volkswagen.
@@MLBuckProductions Did the buzzing sound occur only after the engine reached normal operating temperature? We are experiencing a buzzing sound after warmup on our A3 TDI after gas was added to the diesel when refueled by a friend and driven only about 2 miles. No metal filings were found in fuel system. No error codes. Dealer replaced fuel pumps other than the HPFP, removed contaminated fuel, cleaned fuel lines.
just happened to my JSW, i'm in for about a $5000 repair at an independent vw shop since i'm out of the dieselgate warranty. tried to appeal to VW to get some help, to no avail. i think it's a totally insane bill for a jetta. also wasting about a grand on a rental car since parts are delayed due to weather. been such a nice car till now.
If I would have known this before I purchased my 2014 passat I wouldn't had purchased it. I go 16,300 miles right now and I'm going to get rid of this garbage and go back to a Toyota Camry before it is to late. Great video
thx for this video. the same happens to me. they also told me, i used gasoline... this is fucking wrong, this fuel pump ist just wrong construated!!! 90.000 miles -hah!!!
Yes there is "something you can do" to reduce the risk of this happening. Your pump got taken out by low lubricity fuel.
The quality control of American diesel fuel sucks. You need to add lubricity additive to every tank or you're simply trusting that "enough" lubricant got added to the fuel at the retail pump.
You're crazy if you simply trust the quality control of fuel without adding lubricant. The U.S. 520um fuel scar standard sucks to start with (these pumps live forever on 400um fuel (lower numbers are better) and even our 520um U.S. standard quality control isn't up to snuff.
What additive you recommend
Yes what additive do you recommend?
Biodiesel actually has good lubricity. Hard to find anything other than biodiesel here in IL. But i fuel at a Sam’s Club which claims 5% bio.
I'd have to agree, my 09 A4 has the CAHA engine same set up as here, 350,000 kms no problems, im a mechanic here in Ireland the 2.0 CR engines are very reliable. The Bosch cp4 is not as rugged as the cp3 however thats bulletproof.
Also the 1.6tdi CAYC engines with the Siemens/ Conti pumps are extremely rugged have a taxi client with 720,000kms on his skoda supreme 2012 1.6tdi.
You need to check your diesel, here we only see catastrophic failure after a misfuel condition with petrol.
Thank You for all the Info!! My 2014 Golf TDI… just took a major fuel pump dump!!😡🤬
So the part that started to go out first was the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP). Then how did the metal particles get into the tank to ruin the rest of the pumps? Was it through the return line? If so, is there a filter we can put on the return line to prevent at least the metal from ruining the two lift pumps? It's bad enough to have to replace so much... Is there not a special tool to remove the injectors?
There's no tool to remove the injectors, they're held down by a spring bracket and some small screws with 5mm Allen heads. It would be beneficial to install a filter on the return line to keep the debris out of the fuel tank, but it's not terrible to clean out and in my opinion not entirely necessary to replace. The ideal place for a filter would be right after the hpfp, but the extreme pressures create a problem.
I am replacing my hpfp at 100k miles before it goes bad. on a maintenance interval to forgo all the other parts replacement.
Ugh my 2011 Golf just died today. Started flashing the glow plug light and de-rated. Then the MIL lit up with DTC's P0087,P1004,P1005,P1006,P1007,P0200. Haven't had a chance to look any further yet but no doubt it's the same failure. Sounds like it's going to be expensive. Thanks for the video man, well done!
I just bought a 2011 MK6 TDI 133,200 miles.
I've got a HPFP, Inline Fuel Pump, In tank Fuel Pump fuel filter all ready to do the maintenance Monday.
Already put in the Amsoil Injector cleaner, 2 bottles on the first tank, I'm running another bottle on the second tank before I drop it off for Fuel system maintenance.
It's getting timing belt, water pump Oil pump Chain replace Harmonic balancer replace. Serpentine belt replace to include all tensioners, and associated pulleys. The ticket also includes Neuspeed turbo diffuser delete, and a performance Turbo inlet pipe.
Already did the Engine And Transmission Flush, Power Foam intake turbo cleaner sprayed, changed Lubricants to Amsoil. New Air filter, in-cabin filter, Transmission filter, oil filter.
New 17/235/45 Continental Tires, Fresh Alignment, Upgraded to Velt Sport Motor Mounts.
This bad boy is better-taken care of than Kobe Beef Cows.
You’d think with such an obvious design flaw that VW could at the very least make the parts to replace more affordable. I will always be using a fuel additive and probably will plan to replace the pump at every timing belt change. If the pump frags before that maybe I’ll look into an ALH swap...has that been done on an MK6?
Hey so the same issue happened with my 2012 Volkswagen Jetta TDI and I replaced the HPFP and the car still didn’t start up so I’m getting my fuel injectors replaced now and I’m worried if I replaced those and the car still doesn’t run what else could be the problem then ?
I wish I could fix mine. Been sitting 3 years now because of this. I want to get it back up and running but at this point she’s a goner and I’m just gonna have to scrap it.
They're saying biodiesel is similar effect as the gasoline and early detonation of the fuel pump what do you think because here in California most of our diesel is biodiesel
Thank you for the video Brian! I just found metal shavings in my fuel filter... time for this project to commence.
Why are we replacing the hard lines. Just had this happen. Can they be cleaned?
Do you think that the engine could be ruined from a situation like this ?
Do you think there is a way to just replace the roller on the pump or to rig it to get it to run for a short time to turn it in for the buy back?
Any tips on removing the nut on injector pump pulley
does the field pump have a routine replacement time?
What kind high pressure fuel pump this car used
Many failures reported on TDICLUB.COM for all years. Vw increased/added the pump to 120k mile warranty in october 2015. That car would have been fixed for free if under 120k miles.Great learning experience, thanks for sharing. In addition to the parts you are replacing, the tank and fuel lines are being replaced at dealers,they would not be able to guarantee all metal bits were removed by cleaning, and how will you.?. Get the filter kit from 3micron to catch the metal the next time.. and there will be a next time!
+kent r Good Advice
I have 235k miles on 2010 Sportwagen. No issues with the HPFP - yet. I haven't done anything except try and avoid Bio Diesel. Sometimes I have no choice but to use it though.
Biodiesel actually has good lubricity. Hard to find anything other than biodiesel here in IL. But i fuel at a Sam’s Club which claims 5% bio.
I'm about to replace the hpfp on my 14 jetta. Are you saying $2500 just in parts? I need to know what all told are required for all this stuff. I need to get this running for the buyback. pain in the ASS!
Did you ever fix your car for the buyback? How much in parts was it?
Did you have to code the injectors?
Lou's Auto Repair no need to code them, plug and play
You don’t have to code them I bought some used one off another car and worked
If you replace all its not needed because they normall wear evenly. But if you replace less and install new one it's better to code them so it adjust to the wear of the others.
Exact same thing happened to my 2011 tdi sportwagen a few weeks ago. Dealership did everything under warranty and I'm at 126k miles. I had the emissions modification done a few years back, not sure if they are related but I'm sure glad all this stuff was covered by Volkswagen!
after 9 years it was still covered under warranty??
Rock auto has the rebuilt hpfp for $420
Would the car crank over? or did it sound like it wanted to but wouldnt go one revolution? Thanks
Yeaci was wondering the same this just happened to my car and it wont crank at all
The pump failed on my A3 a few days ago. My car is set to be turned into VW as part of the Class Action settlement in 15 days. They are requiring that the car be driven in on it's own power. After it's turned in they are required to render it undriveable. Any suggestion on minimal work to get it to work for 15 - 20 mins? Can I just replace the pump and let the rest self destruct?
Did you solve the issue without changing all the parts?
I did end up changing all of the parts he suggested. I did buy a lot of them used but still cost about $2,000
Hello Friend. What fluid does hpfp use? I have a mini cooper and I want to do the repair. I'm from Brazil
This is on a VW TDI engine. High Pressure Fuel Pumps (HPFP), Pump a fluid called Fuel, in this case diesel fuel. Your Mini Cooper is probably a little different. Learn how it works and what it specifically has, to then find parts and tools for the job. You are the main tool for the job so sharpen up and the others will fall in. Good luck brother! Also, do you have any exclusive VW stuff down there that you would trade for some American stuff?
You have a link for that puller/holder tool?
How did you clean the tank?? I'm getting ready to do this to my car, and I would like some ideas thanks!
You will have to completely empty all the fuel and remove the tank and all sensors/pump. Then manually clean loose debris out and then what I have done is spray degreaser and let it sit for a few minutes. Then wipe or spray it out and repeat until you can take a clean white cloth to it and nothing sticks to it. You will have to be extremely meticulous because you won't want to do this again. Also, fill up with high quality fuel when the tanks at the station at not being refilled or just have been. The sediment that this kicks up in the bottom of the diesel tank at a station is absolutely absurd. This is what causes the wear on these pumps.
@@iansrving thanks for the reply! I've been cleaning it like crazy, So hoping for the best.
@@DenverRoyer No problem at all. It really sucks and that's why I am upgrading to a CP3 pump on my next timing belt service. They do not have the metallurgy issues that our CP4.1 pumps have. The conversion kit is worth the $800 and they flow twice the amount that the stock pump does... not that I plan on racing my daily.
@@iansrving Where did you get the kit? Is it somewhat easy to do? Will the kit work on a 2013 passat tdi?
Dealer will do it for $4200
Same exact thing. Glow plug error > shut off > Glow plug error > engine light. Luckily it sounds like no particles got in my engine and it was covered under warranty... would have been a 2.4k repair here in the Carolina's and it happened at around 88k miles.
Any thoughts on Turbo failures in these? I'm sure that'll be next..
I put all the fuel system from a 09 jetta tdi to my 11 jetta tdi. parts were identical but now it won't start. it started once for about 5 seconds and died. it sounded pretty healthy like everything was working great for only 5 seconds. now it still cranks healthy but won't start. what could be the issue?
Igor Sirbu It sounds like your fuel system needs to be primed. It can be done with software or some scanners if you have that option. If you're like me, you don't have that expensive equipment. I ran some wires from the battery to both electric fuel pumps and ran them for about 30 seconds. Then shut off, ran again for another 15 seconds or so and repeated this process a few more times. It fired up relatively quickly after this process, about 5 seconds or so of cranking.
Brian Kiellish thank you for quick reply. I primed the fuel with Delphi software and it sounded like both fuel pumps (the aux, and the interior one) were running. did it at least three times before starting. will try to do it manually as you mentioned. maybe the Delphi software is not good enough. thanks again!
Igor Sirbu any time! Listen to the pumps running, you will hear air rushing through and being purged if any remains. If you hear a nice consistent hum from the pumps and lines, it's most likely good to go. If it ran good for 5 seconds and died, it could be a security issue involving the immobilizer. Is the security light flashing?
the issue was in the hpfp itself. it had a microscopic dirt inside it. I removed the head of the pump into pieces, cleaned it up, put it back, primed for 3 times and it started right away. all this thanks to 2micron from tdi club. I would have never thought about this. cheers!
Igor Sirbu great news. Glad you figured it out. That's also the easiest way to examine the condition of the pump - by removing that top assembly. Where was the dirt and what was it blocking?
The reason they fail is that most western countries only allow the sale of low sulfur diesel these days. The sulfur in diesel fuel is the primary source of lubricity. So now its been removed and the common rail systems are working at higher pressures than ever, its no wonder they go out. That and frankly VW just isn't the best quality. The Asian made diesels are pretty much the best these days and even they aren't very good.
Probably the best diesel engines on the market are the Honda and the Toyota AD engines (which weren't even that great and are no longer made). Most of the other popular diesel engines are junk. Like the BMW N47 engine that snaps the chain after 70-80,000 miles. BMW claimed to have "fixed" the problem but the chains are still snapping. The reason they snap is a design problem. Toyota have actually signed an agreement with BMW to use this engine in their vehicles...
These days the Peugeot (PSA) 1.6 HDI engines are also in Ford vehicles (known as TDCI) and Volvo's. These have a lovely fault where the Turbine in the turbo charger which is aluminium likes to shred into a million pieces and coat the inside of the engine with aluminuim swarf. Which is pretty much a death sentence for the longevity of the engine even with repair.
The 1.8 Ford diesel is a pretty weak engine. I don't know anyone who has gotten more life out of one than its 1.8 petrol equivalent. I must admit I'm in the dark about the 2.0 diesel they use. The GM diesel's sold in Vauxhall/Opel vehicles i don't have much experience of. I know a few Mercedes drivers who are on engine No. 2 in vehicles that are less than 10 years old.
*****
Honda diesels or the older Toyota AD engine diesels (I believe there were 1.8/2.0 and 2.2 models). If you can find an ancient 1.9 PD engined VW like a Golf or Passat. Those are capable of 300,000 miles generally. Ancient Peugeot's with DW8 diesels were pretty damn good. The older BMW diesels with the M47 was a fairly decent engine. There was also an older 5 cylinder diesel engine made by BMW that was pretty good. In the UK and European market the Landrover Discovery and Defender were made with the TD5 engine. That is probably the best engine that Landrover ever made. Its not great but its an old fashioned design from Rover in the 80's. Plenty of parts in scrap yards in the UK. The engines are well worth rebuilding even though most have had a hard life.
*****
UK. Where half of our vehicles are diesel. In Europe some countries are more than 75% diesel.
Theyre designed for low sulfur fuel.
is a 2013 jetta tdi under 120k miles under the waranty?
Yes, it should be. Check with your dealership.
No, it only covers 2009-2012. I have a 2013 with 78K miles and VW rejected the repairs.
Ftrt Rpih man that sucks. Sorry to hear that. In that case you'll need to perform the repair shown in the video. The only thing you could probably avoid buying is the injector lines as long as you're careful to not damage the mating surfaces. The injectors will surely be clogged if the pump is similarly damaged.
Can you buy just the piston?
No, the dealer only sells the pump as a whole. You would technically need the camshaft and lifter most importantly. However, other parts of the pump would still be exposed to the floating debris, it's best to replace the whole thing.
I just need this P. O. S. To fire off for 10 seconds for the buyback
VW will fix it for free if the vehicle has less than 120k miles
Bought this dam car not knowing it had dam hpfp that fails
Thanks for the video. Do you need a scan tool to do it?
Mark Benoit no scan tool required. Just disconnect the battery before unplugging any electrical connectors. A scan tool would make priming the fuel pumps easier, but I did it just by running wires from the battery. I've been told the scan tool software will run the pumps for a period of time, rest and run again to get air pockets out. I didn't really experience any trouble manually running them, I primed them for maybe 15 or 20 seconds at first, rested for a few seconds and then let them both run for about a minute until I heard no air in the system. There's no need to code any parts, everything works as soon as you prime the fuel pumps.
It's a heartbreaking fault. I was very stoked to buy a TDI recently until hearing about the HPFP issues echoed by so many people on forums.
Despite how incredible the car was to test drive, I can't risk a repair like that, because I'd planned to drive it to 300k miles or so... even the 2013 models that supposedly have a better HPFP still have been reported to fail.
Looks like I'll be getting the 2.5 model instead (sadface)
dude i really dont know what have you been doing like seriously !?!?! WTF on my jetta I have done nothing but regular maintenance and currently i have 285k miles well regular lol i got the car with 113k miles since than did water pump and timing belt at 190 DMF at 200k and jetta drives like a dream ive never had a car least me 300k miles but damn for a good reason wherever I go with my car they call it a yunicorn