👍 well I'll get Christmas and boxing day off at least. Starting a 222 install tomorrow with one underfloor heating and one rad zone. Got 3 days to pull it off or we've ruined someone's Christmas. So no pressure 😀
@@griffithsheating ah the age old problem of “it’s gotta be done before Christmas” 😂🎄💩 Ah well Chris, keep smiling mate! You’ll soon have two days off. 🤙🏼😳🤦🏼♂️
If there was 3 phase at the property, could you run 3 phase into the wall unit for each element leg or would you need to keep it single phase still with 3 separate ways?
Wowza, thats a beast of an install. That energy consumption is great too. Our house is smaller and uses more than that, even at very good cop (needs more insulation). Good bit of info on the UFH too, that screed transfers more heat. Being ground floor, the 'spreader plate' system is that the pre-routed foam boards with aluminium spreaders? Or is it spreaded plates from below, attached to suspended floor? Will be retrofitting UFH on a suspended floor, looking at options for the biggest thermal transfer
It's pir between joists and then 150mm ally spreader plates over joists with flooring sheets on top. It works fine but not as good as in screed. This unit is currently running at a cop of 4.6
@@griffithsheating Ah I get you, so at that part of the floor there's a cellar or crawl space underneath? I'll probably go with pre-routed chipboard with spreader plates on top, then a thin plywood layer.
Good video. What was the heat loss to require a 16kw pump, it looks like a new build or full refurb? Did you use antifreeze valves with the hex module or instead of?
I can't remember the heat loss to be honest as the job was specced that long ago. Job was a refurb and mega extension. It was a small bungalow converted into a relatively big house. Loads of insulation gone into the walls floors and ceiling. No antifreeze valves. Viessmann said they weren't required because of the defrost buffer design or something 🤷
@@griffithsheating so is it just water in the pipes between the hex and the outdoor unit or glycol? I was told has to be gylcol and a hex, or do away with the hex, use antifreeze valves and regular water most efficient. So many different opinions many not concerned over freezing live far South
The lack of strain relief on the CAN-bus and Plusbus cables might cause problems in future if a service engineer snags one of them. It might be worth adding some.
Could the system be pared with a small capacity gas combi boiler for back up/added capacity in very lowest temperatures? I wish I could get a lower powered combi boiler for my flat, most are powerful enough for houses, apparently not so many small capacity ones available on market. Basically impossible to get the condenser action going if I only want to use one or two radiators seems like. Even with all radiators on and the flow temperature right down at lowest setting it still needs to cycle burner on and off. I only need 17c tops would be OK with around 12c if not for old dog.
I don't know about the bearings to be honest. You'd have to build your own hybrid set up as the 150a doesn't support bivalent operation yet I don't think - there are still quite a lot of firmware updates to come on these units to add functionality.
It's designed to 21 degrees at -2 so anything below that may bring in the heater or miss design temp by a few degrees. The main issue here was the property was not far off freezing inside when we comissioned as it has been unheated and empty for 2 years so it took a bit of heating up.
@@griffithsheating it's just the irony of a so called "green" technology that relies on resistive heating in any way shape or form. Some of these units even use resistive heating to stop the drain from freezing. Seems rather backwards.
@@normanboyes4983 in that box is an expansion vessel, small buffer, pump, 3 way heating/HW/defrost valve and the back up heaters. It also houses the control electronics so there is no external 3rd party wiring 👍
The size of the rad in that bedroom, the 30C flow temp and the 20C room temp tells me there is an awful lot of insulation in this property. It’s thermal performance is clearly well above your typical U.K. housing stock.
@@griffithsheating it’s a bit disingenuous to say “look heat pumps work” when you’ve not installed it in anything like a typical U.K. property. The main gripe is that the majority of U.K. property leaks heat like a sieve.
@@chrisb4009 at the end of the day heatloss is heatloss. As long as you select a pump that can meet your demand at design temp it will work if your house leaks like a sieve or not it will just cost more to run as it would if you were heating with gas. The problems occur when they're retrofitted and flow rates, temperatures and outputs aren't fully considered and calculated. High output combis made the heating industry dumb.
@@griffithsheating I don’t really get the “you just need to do the sums argument”. You get decent COP’s with low MWT’s. But if I sized rads based on a MWT of say 30 or 40C in my sandstone house I’d need a bigger house to fit the rads in. It just wouldn’t be practical. So you have to increase your MWT to reduce rad size as a trade off drastically reducing your COP. I can’t see HP’s ever being a universal product in the way combis are in the U.K.
Nice installation. I like the amount of insulation on the pipes and the good quality ESBE valves.
I went a bit OTT on the lagging. It's proper thick stuff
Thank for taking the time to do the video. Wiring looks easy enough.
I hope you have a relaxing Christmas!! 👍🏼😁
👍 well I'll get Christmas and boxing day off at least. Starting a 222 install tomorrow with one underfloor heating and one rad zone. Got 3 days to pull it off or we've ruined someone's Christmas. So no pressure 😀
@@griffithsheating ah the age old problem of “it’s gotta be done before Christmas” 😂🎄💩
Ah well Chris, keep smiling mate! You’ll soon have two days off. 🤙🏼😳🤦🏼♂️
thanks a lot for your decent video.
Do you know if it's possible to have the cooling and DHW working simultaneously during summer?
You can but you'd need to speak with Viessmann tech about the best way to implement it
If there was 3 phase at the property, could you run 3 phase into the wall unit for each element leg or would you need to keep it single phase still with 3 separate ways?
The cable designation is H07RN-F. It's good for -25C to +85C and UV resistant.
That's the stuff 👍
Wowza, thats a beast of an install. That energy consumption is great too. Our house is smaller and uses more than that, even at very good cop (needs more insulation). Good bit of info on the UFH too, that screed transfers more heat. Being ground floor, the 'spreader plate' system is that the pre-routed foam boards with aluminium spreaders? Or is it spreaded plates from below, attached to suspended floor? Will be retrofitting UFH on a suspended floor, looking at options for the biggest thermal transfer
It's pir between joists and then 150mm ally spreader plates over joists with flooring sheets on top. It works fine but not as good as in screed. This unit is currently running at a cop of 4.6
@@griffithsheating Ah I get you, so at that part of the floor there's a cellar or crawl space underneath? I'll probably go with pre-routed chipboard with spreader plates on top, then a thin plywood layer.
Good video. What was the heat loss to require a 16kw pump, it looks like a new build or full refurb?
Did you use antifreeze valves with the hex module or instead of?
I can't remember the heat loss to be honest as the job was specced that long ago. Job was a refurb and mega extension. It was a small bungalow converted into a relatively big house. Loads of insulation gone into the walls floors and ceiling. No antifreeze valves. Viessmann said they weren't required because of the defrost buffer design or something 🤷
@@griffithsheating so is it just water in the pipes between the hex and the outdoor unit or glycol?
I was told has to be gylcol and a hex, or do away with the hex, use antifreeze valves and regular water most efficient.
So many different opinions many not concerned over freezing live far South
The lack of strain relief on the CAN-bus and Plusbus cables might cause problems in future if a service engineer snags one of them. It might be worth adding some.
Yeah I'm not too keen on the low voltage signal wiring set up. It's quick and easy but looks a bit of a scruffy solution.
How easy to service the bearings and components to keep noise this low please? Clean and new grease job in summer?
Could the system be pared with a small capacity gas combi boiler for back up/added capacity in very lowest temperatures? I wish I could get a lower powered combi boiler for my flat, most are powerful enough for houses, apparently not so many small capacity ones available on market.
Basically impossible to get the condenser action going if I only want to use one or two radiators seems like. Even with all radiators on and the flow temperature right down at lowest setting it still needs to cycle burner on and off. I only need 17c tops would be OK with around 12c if not for old dog.
I don't know about the bearings to be honest. You'd have to build your own hybrid set up as the 150a doesn't support bivalent operation yet I don't think - there are still quite a lot of firmware updates to come on these units to add functionality.
So you're saying that this system requires resistive heating to give full output in very cold weather?
It's designed to 21 degrees at -2 so anything below that may bring in the heater or miss design temp by a few degrees. The main issue here was the property was not far off freezing inside when we comissioned as it has been unheated and empty for 2 years so it took a bit of heating up.
@@griffithsheating it's just the irony of a so called "green" technology that relies on resistive heating in any way shape or form. Some of these units even use resistive heating to stop the drain from freezing. Seems rather backwards.
So it’s an ASHP - so what exactly is the Viessman box (inside the house) with the control panel actually doing - does it house the circ pump?
@@normanboyes4983 in that box is an expansion vessel, small buffer, pump, 3 way heating/HW/defrost valve and the back up heaters. It also houses the control electronics so there is no external 3rd party wiring 👍
@@griffithsheating Thanks.👍
Wouldn't expect much noise from the outdoor unit when system is at or near working temp!!!
The size of the rad in that bedroom, the 30C flow temp and the 20C room temp tells me there is an awful lot of insulation in this property.
It’s thermal performance is clearly well above your typical U.K. housing stock.
Yeah the whole house was pulled apart and a huge amount of insulation was put in.
@@griffithsheating it’s a bit disingenuous to say “look heat pumps work” when you’ve not installed it in anything like a typical U.K. property. The main gripe is that the majority of U.K. property leaks heat like a sieve.
@@chrisb4009 at the end of the day heatloss is heatloss. As long as you select a pump that can meet your demand at design temp it will work if your house leaks like a sieve or not it will just cost more to run as it would if you were heating with gas. The problems occur when they're retrofitted and flow rates, temperatures and outputs aren't fully considered and calculated. High output combis made the heating industry dumb.
@@griffithsheating I don’t really get the “you just need to do the sums argument”.
You get decent COP’s with low MWT’s. But if I sized rads based on a MWT of say 30 or 40C in my sandstone house I’d need a bigger house to fit the rads in. It just wouldn’t be practical.
So you have to increase your MWT to reduce rad size as a trade off drastically reducing your COP.
I can’t see HP’s ever being a universal product in the way combis are in the U.K.