Bought a Honeywell 3RT wireless programmable stat for my Vaillant as the dog chewed the old 1, took a live neutral & earth from the boiler to power the receiver, screwed it to the wall job done, when it came to the 24v at the boiler end the connections weren't the same as the vaillant stat i'd just replaced and the boiler installation manual only showed how to connect vaillant products, the Honeywell guide said to connect to T1 & T2 where in the Vaillant there's no such markings, anyway, called a plumber out who messed about for a while then told me i'd blown the receiver up, mines an Ecotec plus 831, so out of curiosity, found your vid, followed it and bingo boiler & controllers fully functional, Thanks Jon
Thanks for the guide Bob. I Just wired in a Hive thermostat mini to my Vaillant Ecotec Pro28 R2. I was fine working out the 240v, I needed to know where contacts 1 & 3 on the Hive receiver went to on the boiler board. The Hive hub/app took ages to find the thermostat, even though it was paired with the receiver. Once paired, the system worked as intended. The old Vaillant wireless E-Bus unit I just disconnected from the boiler.
Thought I’d comment and say how this instruction video is bob on. Followed this video this morning and it worked a dream for me. Hive heating rocking and rolling. Excellent. Cheers pal.
Hi Just came across your video. I installed mine a few years back but your video is simple to follow and a real gem for those wanting to fit hive to their combi. Keep up the good work!
Hi, thank you for the video, I wired a mini hive to my vaillant eco boiler, and everything works, but the boiler does not respond, any thoughts on this please
Yes the 240v power that I have used there I have used it as a sort of junction box to then send the power to the boiler however if your boiler already has power then there is no need to send a 240v supply from the hive. I have only done this so that the hive and the boiler are running from the Fused Spur that you can see. Please don’t confuse the blue and brown wires that are the COMMAND wires to the boiler…. The COMMAND wires simply send a signal from the Hive unit to the boiler to turn the boiler on or off as required.
@@Jstorfs19 am I right in thinking you don’t have to earth the receiver? But could I just double up the earth at the boiler end as well? My set up is the boiler has a plug running to the socket, so there’s the L N and E connected within the boiler, so my plan was to run a cable from the receiver and double up at the L N and then attach the 1 & 3 to the 24 & RT within the boiler. I wasn’t going to bother with the earth but am I as well doubling that up boiler end?
Nice video and simple to follow. Like a few on here I have already got power to the boiler then have two command cables running to a wireless thermostat. I am planning to put the hive receiver next to the fused spur for the boiler and connect it up to get power for the hive receiver. I actually have a separate fused spur the other side of the hive receiver I could use instead as it doesn’t power anything currently. Just wondering if it’s better to take power from the same spur as the boiler or go from the completely separate spur?
Hi Jason, It matters not really where you take the power from just so long as it has power! Personally mine goes back to a fused spur as in the video. Both the boiler and the hive are connected into the same fused spur but don’t get precious over it. The advantages of having to separate Spurs ie one for the boiler and one for the hive simply means you can turn the hive off without turning the boiler off and vice versa but it really doesn’t matter as the draw is small and both the boiler and the hive can run off the same spur 👍🏼👍🏼
Hola a todos. Tengo una duda, tengo la vaillant turbotec plus VMW ES 21/245/4-5 y en el terminal de RT 24V en vez de tener 2 patillas como en el video, tengo 3, con los numeros 7, 8 y 9. En el video solo se ven dos patillas... Si el termostato solo viene para cablearlo con dos cables... ¿donde los conecto?. Gracias
Hi. Really useful. How does one get a new cable into the boiler unit? Is that what those rubber nipples are for? Should we cut one of them and put the cable for the controller through the hole?
Hi, if you look under the boiler in the back left hand corner you will see a Red Bung! If you put a small cut in it you can push your power cable through it ... that’s what it’s for 👍🏼
@@kelartis hi, have you made sure that the command wires are exactly the same as the video? Because of those command wires ie the two that go to the boiler into the block are the wrong way round the boiler will stay off when it should be on and stay on when it should be off! It’s simply a command wire that takes the signal from the hive unit to the boiler so check to make sure the jumpers are also present where needed and removed where appropriate. You shouldn’t have an additional thermostat connected also. Regards.
If you have used the hive control and thermostat that came with it then it should be fine! But don’t plug in an additional thermostat or if you have one then disconnect it because this could be conflicting with the hive one if the wires are different. If you imagine here all the hive system does is connect upto the mains, then the only thing that happens is the two wires that come out to the boiler are the thermostat command wires which just sends a little signal to the boiler to say ‘turn on or turn off’ A normal thermostat does exactly the same thing…. When you turn the normal thermostat let’s say from 18 -20 as soon as the thermostat registers 20 degrees then it then sends a little message to the boiler through those two small wires that go back to the boiler to turn on it turn off
@@Jstorfs19 Hi. Do you mean the wires for the 1 & 3 terminal? I will check again today, as that does make sense, but I am 100% sure they are the correct way around. I used a .75mm cable for the connectors. Would that cause an issue? I am only using the Hive thermostat, hub and receiver that came with the kit and nothing else. Thanks for the reply.
@@Jstorfs19 hi mate nice video! Just wonder if boiler plus option will work if you connect it like that. As it says you need vr33 module to work on vaillant?
Mike UK hi, It should do because the only thing doing the work here are those two command wires which are connected to the boiler, they effectively bridge the gap from the receiver to the boiler
I have a Honeywell timer but I also have a mains power thermostat in my hall where does the thermostat get it’s power from as I’d need to delete it and then make it safe in regards to its power supply
If it’s mains powered then it will get its power from the mains, that could mean a fused spur or it could be on the same power 240v supply which supplies the boiler… I couldn’t possibly tell you… you could try turning the boiler off and then electrical testing the thermostat to see if the power has gone off which would then mean that the thermostat is taking its power from the boiler and you could then chase the wire back. There will be two wires that go back to the boiler though and these will be a low voltage COMMAND wire which literally sends a little signal back to the boiler to turn it off or on. Best advice really is to contact an electrician and get them to determine where the 240v mains thermostat power is connected too. 👍🏼
hi, i need your help in my case there is 4 connection N,L, OUT1 and OUT2 I can understand N & L but which on will connect to hive 1 and 3. will be great help
Aamir Gondal hi there, N - neutral L- Live then connection 1 +3 simply are command wires ! So that wire connects to you boiler as they send a signal to the boiler to fire up or shut off according to the hive setting
Great video. I have a question on power. You seem to take the live and neutral feed to your boiler via the hive box. My boiler is already installed with power. My question, do I now take the live and neutral feed from the boiler to the hive box. That way the hive box is live when the boiler is switched on? Or is this a separate feed to the boiler via the hive box?
Norman Cooper hi, My boiler had No power going to it at all! So that is why I took a power supply from the hive to the boiler... effectively what I did was basically took another cable from the power going to the hive and sent it to the boiler that’s why I state in the video power is going to the boiler.... Don’t mistake the brown / blue wire which I have used as the command wire though. I just simply used that cable ie the blue and the brown as a way of sending the signal to the boiler from the hive...... so all those two cables do is send an on or off signal to the boiler. So in essence the room thermostat sends a wireless signal to the hive control wall mounted box....this then decides if the boiler should be on or off depending on the wireless signal revived. Then the wall mounted control box sends a signal via those two cables to the boiler which in turn then either turns the boiler on or off. I hope this makes sense to you.. Regards
Norman Cooper so in answer to your question if your boiler already has power then there is no need to take power to the boiler again ! The only reason I took power to the boiler is because my boiler had no power at all. Most people’s boiler already have power so in that case all you need to do is make sure that the hive control box has power then just connect the wires that i connect to the boiler as a command cable!
Great video. I am going to install dual zone as my heating has upstairs and downstairs. My question is do both my communication wires go into the =24v? I have a similar boiler valiant eco sustain. It has a pcb behind the boiler cover and a separate pcb box on the wall. Then remove the communication wires for the old wall mounted thermostats from the bus line leaving one set of communication lines from the boiler to the external pcb to control the zone valves?
Hi mate got mine to wire by the looks of the boiler control panel I cannot get the mains incoming and hive power in 1 terminal will it be ok to wago it in a Junction box then split it to the boiler and the hive
The hive needs power and so does the boiler but they don’t have to come from the hive I just used the terminals as a sort of junction box effectively because I needed a power source to both the boiler and the hive so it was easier for me just to pull a spur from the hive power in! So long as you have a power source going to the hive it doest matter! The main thing is the signal wires, they have to go to the boiler as per the video as they are effectively a command signal cable sending an off / on signal to the boiler
@@gd5129 if you already have power going to your boiler then you could run a separate power cable from the boiler to the hive but I just did it that way as it was easier for me.
Hi Jon, my Vailliant boiler has 5 wires coming out, black, blue, yellow/green, red and yellow. I understand blue is neutral, red is live, yellow/green is earth. Not sure what black and yellow wires are? Can you help? Trying to install it to Hive.
If you are wiring in a hive thermostat like the one on the video and you already have power running to the boiler and also power running to hive then then all you need is 2 wires from the hive unit itself ! As per the video!
Hi, Will this be compatible with th vaillant ecotec 28 proz and what do I do with the manual timer ? Just leave it as it is and just keep it on 24 hours ? Also, if I want to install multiple zones, do I just connect all sets of command wires (signal on and off wires from all the receivers) to the rt connection port together (respective of their 2 locations on the rt connection port)? Thank you.
is this a separate timer? if so I would disconnect it just like I would do if it was a separate thermostat .... the timer will no doubt have 2 command wires that go to the boiler and all you need to do is disconnect those two wires and put the 2 command cables as described in the video into those two ports because in essence all that a timer does is once the timer gets to a point that it is to be on then it just competes the circuit and that is exactly the same as what the hive hub does.... unless it’s a timer which is built into the the device such as the PCB then I would not touch it !
Struggling to find a salus rt500 install live and neutral are fine then comes two more wires black and grey for the rt port then back to the receiver but doesn't seem to be connecting. The old receiver that's currently in place only has standard thermostat so when the boiler kicks in it runs the heating for about 40 mins then shuts of so u have to press the overide button then kicks back in so wondered if can do away with the thermostats and just use the boiler itself Ie would I need to just loop a wire on the grey rt plug
Hi good video BUT you could mention the voltage 24v white connector low voltage switching not 240v on the 240v switch purple connector next to the mains in difference ! Some people mistaking bridge the live in the hive by mistake to send it back.
@@Jstorfs19 I followed exactly as you have done and blew the board right by the low voltage rt. I tool L and N from fused spur and run a signal into 1 and 2 low v RT and connected brown to 1 and blue to 3. Any idea why this could be?
Go Forit hi, did you manage to connect your hive receiver. Did you connect it via the 24V or 230v, I’d be extremely grateful if you could let me know ???
Hi. I only have the 2 connection wires going to the current receiver. Can I just install those and it will work or do I need to connect power the the hive hub?
Hi, you have to have a power cable going to the hive otherwise it will not work! The power obviously powers the hive and the signal wires that are described in the video send the on/off signal to the boiler once the hive tells it too and this is what makes the heating come on and go off as per the app / room thermostat etc .... hope that makes sense
@@Jstorfs19 so just need to connect the signal wires to 1 and 3 in the hub and wire a plug to live neutral and earth in the hub. Guessing I don't need to bother with the link in the boiler?
@@korgscrew2000 that’s correct.... there is no need at all to send a power wire from the hive to the boiler if the boiler already has power! Mine didn’t so it was easier to take a spur from the hive into the boiler if that makes sense
@@korgscrew2000 definitely !! You have to contact it as I have done otherwise the heating will stay on!!! Simply connect those cables exactly as I have... and make sure you remove the red jumper it should look exactly the same as mine
Aaron hall sure you can .... on the control panel you will see two silver buttons just simply push the button in and the boiler fires up in manual mode👍🏼👍🏼
Does it realy need the earth conected , i have conected it without the earth and the burner doesn't go higher stays on minimum and the most tempeture it goes to ,45 degrees, boiler is ecotec pls 824 Thank you
2 wires that are connected to the boiler are only a command wire so if you are just connecting the control box to the boiler than you only need the two wires as illustrated in the video. Are you talking about the power to the Hive Unit? Or the boiler? Either way both should really have an earth….. for safety really. Hope this helps
@@slvs91 have you tried adjusting the burner temperature on the boiler control display? The hive unit does nothing more than tell the boiler to turn on or off….it replaces the thermostat and that’s all it does. Do you still have a thermostat connected?
Can you confirm any issue's related to 230v AC or 24v installation. There appears to be a difference and I'm assuming that this video is for a 24v installation. Seems like this could have consequences if you get it wrong.....
The wires coming from the hive are COMMAND wires I have used blue and brown but they are not connected to 240v They are simply COMMAND wires. They send a signal to the boiler to turn off and turn on nothing more. If you follow this video EXACTLY how it is then you will have no problems at all.
@@Jstorfs19 thank you for your reply. Have followed it and it appears to be working. Your video was much easier and clearer to follow than most of the ones I found. Thanks
I could of done and I did explain that I ran the 240v feed from the boiler and basically used the hive as a connector to wire both before sending it into a fuse spur. The 240v cable was already coming out the boiler into the fuse spur sp It was far easier to run both those 240 cables to the hive and connect them there. 👍🏼
Hi, I was going to install the Tado smart thermostat on my Vaillant Ecotec 831 boiler however I spoke with an engineer who said while it can be done the Ecotec boilers it will not run as efficiently as they would using their own controllers. This is due to vaillant having their own Ebus chip and third party controllers can only control the boiler to be on or off rather than gradual heat control, this wasn't always the case with the previos vr65 which I think were opentherm but since the vr66 this seems to not work aswell with third party. Because of this I decided to only purchase the Tado radiator thermostats which come with the bridge in order to run those as an extra while keeping my Vaillant controller. Please can you or anyone else confirm this to be true?
Hi Jason, I am sorry but I can’t offer any advice regarding this a Tado smart thermostat it’s not something I am familiar with. But I wish you well with it. I’m sure someone on here will be able to help but sadly I can’t. Kind regards.
Muhammad Dilbar If your receiver has a red status light this means it has lost connection to your thermostat. This could be due to poor signal between your devices or flat batteries in your thermostat. You may also see your heating showing as 'offline' in the Hive app. When this happens, you can still turn your heating and hot water on and off by using the buttons on the receiver. When you press the central heating (or hot water) button, a green light will come on indicating that this function is on. However, as the receiver is unable to communicate with the thermostat, it won't know when it has reached a target temperature so the boiler will remain on until you switch it off. You will need to press the relevant button on the receiver again to switch your heating or hot water off manually. Hive Hint: Sometimes the Hive Thermostat will use any Hive Light bulbs you have to route temperature messages. This is normally fine but can cause the thermostat to drop offline . If this happens, just turn your lights off at the wall socket then take the batteries out of the thermostat and put them back in again. You should turn your lights back on once the thermostat has reconnected. If the status light on the receiver remains red, try the below steps: Step 1 If you have an older version of the Hive thermostat then please follow the steps for Thermostat - no rf - Hive 1. Step 2 If you have the newest version of the Hive thermostat then please follow the steps for Thermostat - no signal - Hive 2. Step 3 If the receiver status light remains on red after attempting this then switch the boiler off and then on again at the isolation switch/fuse spur (this should be located near your Hive Receiver next to your boiler). The receiver status light will then turn green. Wait 10 minutes and then go to 'manage devices' in the Hive app where the thermostat and receiver should now be showing as 'connected'. If the receiver status light remains on red you may need to purchase a signal booster.
I had similar installation (not with Hive, but Drayton Wiser), all is good, except heating is constantly ON despite showing turning off in app and thermostat? Followed the documentation shown below for the Single Zone CombiBoiler: Model WT714R, WV714R.. m.media-amazon.com/images/I/A1nSDCNGA7S.pdf Anyone can please suggest what is the cause.. if helps, boiler Black cable in Terminal 1 and Grey in 3. Thanks.
Try putting the black in terminal 3 and the grey in terminal 1 Those wires if you have them the wrong way round then the boiler will be off when it should be on and on when it should be off. So just reverse those two cables! After all they are only a command cable sending a signal to the boiler!
Bought a Honeywell 3RT wireless programmable stat for my Vaillant as the dog chewed the old 1, took a live neutral & earth from the boiler to power the receiver, screwed it to the wall job done, when it came to the 24v at the boiler end the connections weren't the same as the vaillant stat i'd just replaced and the boiler installation manual only showed how to connect vaillant products, the Honeywell guide said to connect to T1 & T2 where in the Vaillant there's no such markings, anyway, called a plumber out who messed about for a while then told me i'd blown the receiver up, mines an Ecotec plus 831, so out of curiosity, found your vid, followed it and bingo boiler & controllers fully functional, Thanks Jon
I’m so glad that you found it useful!
Happy New Year to you 👍🏼
Thanks for the guide Bob. I Just wired in a Hive thermostat mini to my Vaillant Ecotec Pro28 R2.
I was fine working out the 240v, I needed to know where contacts 1 & 3 on the Hive receiver went to on the boiler board.
The Hive hub/app took ages to find the thermostat, even though it was paired with the receiver.
Once paired, the system worked as intended.
The old Vaillant wireless E-Bus unit I just disconnected from the boiler.
Thought I’d comment and say how this instruction video is bob on. Followed this video this morning and it worked a dream for me. Hive heating rocking and rolling. Excellent. Cheers pal.
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment Lee, I am glad that others are benefiting which is the whole idea. Happy Christmas 🎄
@@Jstorfs19 and a happy Christmas to you too pal. Cheers
Hi
Just came across your video.
I installed mine a few years back but your video is simple to follow and a real gem for those wanting to fit hive to their combi.
Keep up the good work!
I am glad you found it useful as it makes it all worth while!
😊
Perfectly explained and good camera view. All i need to do is try it myself now.
I am glad you found it useful as it makes it all worth while!
😊
Found you video clear and simple to follow well done.
Thankyou for taking the time out to comment it’s appreciated and I am glad you found it useful 👍🏼
very helpful, worked for my Vaillant Eco Plus 832
Thankyou and I am glad it was beneficial to you 👍🏼
Great video, this worked perfectly ! thanks for uploading.
You are more than welcome, thanks for taking the time to leave a comment it’s appreciated and makes it all worth while.
Brilliant it works perfectly thank you so much for this tutorial
No problem at all I am just glad that someone appreciates it. Happy Christmas 🎄
Exellent video sir very helpfull inded
Glad you found it useful.
Happy Christmas
Perfectly explained
Hi, thank you for the video, I wired a mini hive to my vaillant eco boiler, and everything works, but the boiler does not respond, any thoughts on this please
Jonny, I have a Vaillant VRT 350 connected to my boiler already, so do I just pull this out as I believe its the VBUS communication??
This is excellent, really well explained instructions!! Thank You
I am glad you found it useful as it makes it all worth while!
😊
Nice one Jim well explained and video was crystal top man 👌
Sherwin Hoss thank you, I am glad you found it useful. If just one person has benefitted from it then it was worth doing.
Kind regards
Where you’ve doubled up the wiring on the N and L within the receiver unit could you simply double them up at the other end instead?
Yes the 240v power that I have used there I have used it as a sort of junction box to then send the power to the boiler however if your boiler already has power then there is no need to send a 240v supply from the hive.
I have only done this so that the hive and the boiler are running from the Fused Spur that you can see.
Please don’t confuse the blue and brown wires that are the COMMAND wires to the boiler….
The COMMAND wires simply send a signal from the Hive unit to the boiler to turn the boiler on or off as required.
@@Jstorfs19 am I right in thinking you don’t have to earth the receiver? But could I just double up the earth at the boiler end as well?
My set up is the boiler has a plug running to the socket, so there’s the L N and E connected within the boiler, so my plan was to run a cable from the receiver and double up at the L N and then attach the 1 & 3 to the 24 & RT within the boiler. I wasn’t going to bother with the earth but am I as well doubling that up boiler end?
@@KeyserSoze5421 I would double up the earth but that’s up to you really 👍🏼
Nice video and simple to follow. Like a few on here I have already got power to the boiler then have two command cables running to a wireless thermostat. I am planning to put the hive receiver next to the fused spur for the boiler and connect it up to get power for the hive receiver. I actually have a separate fused spur the other side of the hive receiver I could use instead as it doesn’t power anything currently. Just wondering if it’s better to take power from the same spur as the boiler or go from the completely separate spur?
Hi Jason,
It matters not really where you take the power from just so long as it has power!
Personally mine goes back to a fused spur as in the video. Both the boiler and the hive are connected into the same fused spur but don’t get precious over it. The advantages of having to separate Spurs ie one for the boiler and one for the hive simply means you can turn the hive off without turning the boiler off and vice versa but it really doesn’t matter as the draw is small and both the boiler and the hive can run off the same spur 👍🏼👍🏼
@@Jstorfs19 brilliant thanks 👍
Hola a todos. Tengo una duda, tengo la vaillant turbotec plus VMW ES 21/245/4-5 y en el terminal de RT 24V en vez de tener 2 patillas como en el video, tengo 3, con los numeros 7, 8 y 9. En el video solo se ven dos patillas... Si el termostato solo viene para cablearlo con dos cables... ¿donde los conecto?.
Gracias
Hi. Really useful. How does one get a new cable into the boiler unit? Is that what those rubber nipples are for? Should we cut one of them and put the cable for the controller through the hole?
Hi, if you look under the boiler in the back left hand corner you will see a Red Bung! If you put a small cut in it you can push your power cable through it ... that’s what it’s for 👍🏼
What type of cable is used for the communication cable please?
You can use normal 240 cable which is what I have done in this case!
Thanks. I have now installed it but my heating is on constantly and I cant turn it off by the thermostat. I have the same boiler too.
@@kelartis hi, have you made sure that the command wires are exactly the same as the video?
Because of those command wires ie the two that go to the boiler into the block are the wrong way round the boiler will stay off when it should be on and stay on when it should be off!
It’s simply a command wire that takes the signal from the hive unit to the boiler so check to make sure the jumpers are also present where needed and removed where appropriate.
You shouldn’t have an additional thermostat connected also.
Regards.
If you have used the hive control and thermostat that came with it then it should be fine! But don’t plug in an additional thermostat or if you have one then disconnect it because this could be conflicting with the hive one if the wires are different.
If you imagine here all the hive system does is connect upto the mains, then the only thing that happens is the two wires that come out to the boiler are the thermostat command wires which just sends a little signal to the boiler to say ‘turn on or turn off’
A normal thermostat does exactly the same thing…. When you turn the normal thermostat let’s say from 18 -20 as soon as the thermostat registers 20 degrees then it then sends a little message to the boiler through those two small wires that go back to the boiler to turn on it turn off
@@Jstorfs19 Hi. Do you mean the wires for the 1 & 3 terminal? I will check again today, as that does make sense, but I am 100% sure they are the correct way around. I used a .75mm cable for the connectors. Would that cause an issue?
I am only using the Hive thermostat, hub and receiver that came with the kit and nothing else.
Thanks for the reply.
Nice one, easy to follow. You Sir are too man 👍👍 thank you.
Dewi Jones I’m glad you found it useful and thank you for your comments 👍🏼
@@Jstorfs19 hi mate nice video! Just wonder if boiler plus option will work if you connect it like that. As it says you need vr33 module to work on vaillant?
Mike UK hi,
It should do because the only thing doing the work here are those two command wires which are connected to the boiler, they effectively bridge the gap from the receiver to the boiler
I have a Honeywell timer but I also have a mains power thermostat in my hall where does the thermostat get it’s power from as I’d need to delete it and then make it safe in regards to its power supply
If it’s mains powered then it will get its power from the mains, that could mean a fused spur or it could be on the same power 240v supply which supplies the boiler…
I couldn’t possibly tell you… you could try turning the boiler off and then electrical testing the thermostat to see if the power has gone off which would then mean that the thermostat is taking its power from the boiler and you could then chase the wire back.
There will be two wires that go back to the boiler though and these will be a low voltage COMMAND wire which literally sends a little signal back to the boiler to turn it off or on.
Best advice really is to contact an electrician and get them to determine where the 240v mains thermostat power is connected too. 👍🏼
Would it be the same way to install a Google nest ? Using a 24v RT connection? What's the difference between 24v rt and BUS connectors? Thanks
Hi will this work on vaillant ecoTEC plus 838??
Need help please. I only have one blue wire. The colours are different for my boiler
hi, i need your help in my case there is 4 connection N,L, OUT1 and OUT2 I can understand N & L but which on will connect to hive 1 and 3. will be great help
Aamir Gondal hi there, N - neutral L- Live then connection 1 +3 simply are command wires ! So that wire connects to you boiler as they send a signal to the boiler to fire up or shut off according to the hive setting
Great video. I have a question on power. You seem to take the live and neutral feed to your boiler via the hive box. My boiler is already installed with power. My question, do I now take the live and neutral feed from the boiler to the hive box. That way the hive box is live when the boiler is switched on? Or is this a separate feed to the boiler via the hive box?
Norman Cooper hi,
My boiler had No power going to it at all!
So that is why I took a power supply from the hive to the boiler... effectively what I did was basically took another cable from the power going to the hive and sent it to the boiler that’s why I state in the video power is going to the boiler....
Don’t mistake the brown / blue wire which I have used as the command wire though.
I just simply used that cable ie the blue and the brown as a way of sending the signal to the boiler from the hive...... so all those two cables do is send an on or off signal to the boiler.
So in essence the room thermostat sends a wireless signal to the hive control wall mounted box....this then decides if the boiler should be on or off depending on the wireless signal revived. Then the wall mounted control box sends a signal via those two cables to the boiler which in turn then either turns the boiler on or off.
I hope this makes sense to you..
Regards
Norman Cooper so in answer to your question if your boiler already has power then there is no need to take power to the boiler again !
The only reason I took power to the boiler is because my boiler had no power at all.
Most people’s boiler already have power so in that case all you need to do is make sure that the hive control box has power then just connect the wires that i connect to the boiler as a command cable!
@@Jstorfs19 Thanks thst makes sense.
Great video. I am going to install dual zone as my heating has upstairs and downstairs. My question is do both my communication wires go into the =24v? I have a similar boiler valiant eco sustain. It has a pcb behind the boiler cover and a separate pcb box on the wall. Then remove the communication wires for the old wall mounted thermostats from the bus line leaving one set of communication lines from the boiler to the external pcb to control the zone valves?
Yes that would be the way to do it
Legend mate cheers for that I’ll get it done tomorrow and let you know how it goes! Thanks for the video your a life saver
Hi mate got mine to wire by the looks of the boiler control panel I cannot get the mains incoming and hive power in 1 terminal will it be ok to wago it in a Junction box then split it to the boiler and the hive
The hive needs power and so does the boiler but they don’t have to come from the hive I just used the terminals as a sort of junction box effectively because I needed a power source to both the boiler and the hive so it was easier for me just to pull a spur from the hive power in!
So long as you have a power source going to the hive it doest matter!
The main thing is the signal wires, they have to go to the boiler as per the video as they are effectively a command signal cable sending an off / on signal to the boiler
@@Jstorfs19 ok thanks will prob have to do it the same way then as I cannot get the two cables into one terminal thanks for ur help
@@gd5129 if you already have power going to your boiler then you could run a separate power cable from the boiler to the hive but I just did it that way as it was easier for me.
@@Jstorfs19 that’s way I mean tho I cannot get the hive cable into the boiler terminal not enuff room I wud send a picture but carnt on here
@@gd5129 I see, in that case then do it just as I have done and use those terminals as a power to the hive and also a power to the boiler! 👍🏼
Hello,can you help me to wire vaillant erelax vsmart to boiler ?
Hi
I have a main boiler so how would I connect hive to main boiler?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Jon, my Vailliant boiler has 5 wires coming out, black, blue, yellow/green, red and yellow. I understand blue is neutral, red is live, yellow/green is earth. Not sure what black and yellow wires are? Can you help? Trying to install it to Hive.
Email me a picture
If you are wiring in a hive thermostat like the one on the video and you already have power running to the boiler and also power running to hive then then all you need is 2 wires from the hive unit itself ! As per the video!
@@Jstorfs19 I see, the boilers black and yellow cable (see email) are for Hive terminal 1 and 3?
@@Jstorfs19 Thanks Jon for the explanation and help via email. Much appreciated.
Hi,
Will this be compatible with th vaillant ecotec 28 proz and what do I do with the manual timer ? Just leave it as it is and just keep it on 24 hours ?
Also, if I want to install multiple zones, do I just connect all sets of command wires (signal on and off wires from all the receivers) to the rt connection port together (respective of their 2 locations on the rt connection port)?
Thank you.
is this a separate timer? if so I would disconnect it just like I would do if it was a separate thermostat .... the timer will no doubt have 2 command wires that go to the boiler and all you need to do is disconnect those two wires and put the 2 command cables as described in the video into those two ports because in essence all that a timer does is once the timer gets to a point that it is to be on then it just competes the circuit and that is exactly the same as what the hive hub does....
unless it’s a timer which is built into the the device such as the PCB then I would not touch it !
Struggling to find a salus rt500 install live and neutral are fine then comes two more wires black and grey for the rt port then back to the receiver but doesn't seem to be connecting. The old receiver that's currently in place only has standard thermostat so when the boiler kicks in it runs the heating for about 40 mins then shuts of so u have to press the overide button then kicks back in so wondered if can do away with the thermostats and just use the boiler itself Ie would I need to just loop a wire on the grey rt plug
Hi good video BUT you could mention the voltage 24v white connector low voltage switching not 240v on the 240v switch purple connector next to the mains in difference ! Some people mistaking bridge the live in the hive by mistake to send it back.
I did think it was quite self explanatory and if people follow it exactly as I have done it then they will have success.
@@Jstorfs19 I followed exactly as you have done and blew the board right by the low voltage rt. I tool L and N from fused spur and run a signal into 1 and 2 low v RT and connected brown to 1 and blue to 3. Any idea why this could be?
@@boxingfreddy100 I’ve literally just done the same. Did you find out why this happened? Cheers.
thanks for the video. I thought hive only goes to 230v RT, but you connected to 24v. can it go either way??
Go Forit hi, I’m sure it can but that’s the way I have connected it and it’s absolutely fine with no issues ... sorry for delay in replying
Go Forit hi, did you manage to connect your hive receiver. Did you connect it via the 24V or 230v, I’d be extremely grateful if you could let me know ???
@@sajmohammed I’d like to know this too
I always go via the live and rt for my link with the Vailant.
Hi. I only have the 2 connection wires going to the current receiver. Can I just install those and it will work or do I need to connect power the the hive hub?
Hi, you have to have a power cable going to the hive otherwise it will not work!
The power obviously powers the hive and the signal wires that are described in the video send the on/off signal to the boiler once the hive tells it too and this is what makes the heating come on and go off as per the app / room thermostat etc .... hope that makes sense
@@Jstorfs19 so just need to connect the signal wires to 1 and 3 in the hub and wire a plug to live neutral and earth in the hub. Guessing I don't need to bother with the link in the boiler?
@@korgscrew2000 that’s correct.... there is no need at all to send a power wire from the hive to the boiler if the boiler already has power!
Mine didn’t so it was easier to take a spur from the hive into the boiler if that makes sense
Thanks. I've installed but the heating is constantly on. Do I need to remove the jumper cable that you did?
@@korgscrew2000 definitely !!
You have to contact it as I have done otherwise the heating will stay on!!!
Simply connect those cables exactly as I have... and make sure you remove the red jumper it should look exactly the same as mine
Hiya buddy can u run the boiler without having seperate thermostat in this case the hive that uve installed
Aaron hall sure you can .... on the control panel you will see two silver buttons just simply push the button in and the boiler fires up in manual mode👍🏼👍🏼
Hi, I have the ecotech 831 with internal mechanical clock. Do I leave the clock in place and set it on constant? Thanks.
Stephen Robbins yes leave the clock in place and set it to constant as the hive will do the rest or turn it on and off according to the app 👍🏼
That RT 24v connection is a low voltage, so it shouldn't be connected to 230v from the time clock common and load
Hi
I have an analogue timer on my Vaillant ecotec, do u need to disconnect it?
Does it realy need the earth conected , i have conected it without the earth and the burner doesn't go higher stays on minimum and the most tempeture it goes to ,45 degrees, boiler is ecotec pls 824
Thank you
2 wires that are connected to the boiler are only a command wire so if you are just connecting the control box to the boiler than you only need the two wires as illustrated in the video.
Are you talking about the power to the Hive Unit? Or the boiler?
Either way both should really have an earth….. for safety really. Hope this helps
@@Jstorfs19 i have connected everything as per video but when heating is on ,burner status si on low , it barely raises the heating to 45 degress
@@slvs91 have you tried adjusting the burner temperature on the boiler control display? The hive unit does nothing more than tell the boiler to turn on or off….it replaces the thermostat and that’s all it does.
Do you still have a thermostat connected?
@@Jstorfs19 how do i adjust that? Its a vaillant ecotec plus 824
th-cam.com/video/6t6QnYkXuXA/w-d-xo.html
Take a look at this and it shows you 👍🏼
Can you confirm any issue's related to 230v AC or 24v installation. There appears to be a difference and I'm assuming that this video is for a 24v installation. Seems like this could have consequences if you get it wrong.....
The wires coming from the hive are COMMAND wires I have used blue and brown but they are not connected to 240v
They are simply COMMAND wires. They send a signal to the boiler to turn off and turn on nothing more.
If you follow this video EXACTLY how it is then you will have no problems at all.
@@Jstorfs19 thank you for your reply. Have followed it and it appears to be working. Your video was much easier and clearer to follow than most of the ones I found. Thanks
Thanks to this video I burned the pcb. 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
You could have just run a 240v feed to the 240v rt plug from a linked common behind the hive receiver
I could of done and I did explain that I ran the 240v feed from the boiler and basically used the hive as a connector to wire both before sending it into a fuse spur. The 240v cable was already coming out the boiler into the fuse spur sp It was far easier to run both those 240 cables to the hive and connect them there. 👍🏼
Hi, I was going to install the Tado smart thermostat on my Vaillant Ecotec 831 boiler however I spoke with an engineer who said while it can be done the Ecotec boilers it will not run as efficiently as they would using their own controllers.
This is due to vaillant having their own Ebus chip and third party controllers can only control the boiler to be on or off rather than gradual heat control, this wasn't always the case with the previos vr65 which I think were opentherm but since the vr66 this seems to not work aswell with third party.
Because of this I decided to only purchase the Tado radiator thermostats which come with the bridge in order to run those as an extra while keeping my Vaillant controller.
Please can you or anyone else confirm this to be true?
Hi Jason, I am sorry but I can’t offer any advice regarding this a Tado smart thermostat it’s not something I am familiar with. But I wish you well with it.
I’m sure someone on here will be able to help but sadly I can’t.
Kind regards.
Bit late to the party but does anyone know what to do if the valiant has a timer on the front panel? Thanks in advance.
It looks like the timer connects to the bus adapter next to where you connect the hive 23v.
Hi buddy my hive is still showing first light red can you please guide me how to fix that
Rest all the connections are the same as urs
Muhammad Dilbar
If your receiver has a red status light this means it has lost connection to your thermostat. This could be due to poor signal between your devices or flat batteries in your thermostat. You may also see your heating showing as 'offline' in the Hive app.
When this happens, you can still turn your heating and hot water on and off by using the buttons on the receiver. When you press the central heating (or hot water) button, a green light will come on indicating that this function is on.
However, as the receiver is unable to communicate with the thermostat, it won't know when it has reached a target temperature so the boiler will remain on until you switch it off. You will need to press the relevant button on the receiver again to switch your heating or hot water off manually.
Hive Hint: Sometimes the Hive Thermostat will use any Hive Light bulbs you have to route temperature messages. This is normally fine but can cause the thermostat to drop offline . If this happens, just turn your lights off at the wall socket then take the batteries out of the thermostat and put them back in again. You should turn your lights back on once the thermostat has reconnected.
If the status light on the receiver remains red, try the below steps:
Step 1
If you have an older version of the Hive thermostat then please follow the steps for Thermostat - no rf - Hive 1.
Step 2
If you have the newest version of the Hive thermostat then please follow the steps for Thermostat - no signal - Hive 2.
Step 3
If the receiver status light remains on red after attempting this then switch the boiler off and then on again at the isolation switch/fuse spur (this should be located near your Hive Receiver next to your boiler). The receiver status light will then turn green. Wait 10 minutes and then go to 'manage devices' in the Hive app where the thermostat and receiver should now be showing as 'connected'.
If the receiver status light remains on red you may need to purchase a signal booster.
Important to know not all boilers will be low voltage and some use 240v
Valiant??
Don't forget..you have to be a gas safe registered engineer to be able to do this job on this particular boiler
You also need to fill out a minor works certificate for the electrical installation but I bet the gas fitters don’t 😂
I had similar installation (not with Hive, but Drayton Wiser), all is good, except heating is constantly ON despite showing turning off in app and thermostat? Followed the documentation shown below for the Single Zone CombiBoiler: Model WT714R, WV714R..
m.media-amazon.com/images/I/A1nSDCNGA7S.pdf
Anyone can please suggest what is the cause..
if helps, boiler Black cable in Terminal 1 and Grey in 3. Thanks.
Try putting the black in terminal 3 and the grey in terminal 1
Those wires if you have them the wrong way round then the boiler will be off when it should be on and on when it should be off. So just reverse those two cables!
After all they are only a command cable sending a signal to the boiler!
@@Jstorfs19 exactly as you said. Resolved. Many thanks 🙏