Thank for for this video. I don't have any irigation and was wanting to do soaker hoses but now after you great information I am going to do it your way. Thank you so much for making the time to teach us.
So glad you found our video helpful -- Drip Irrigation is definitely the way to go! Please don't hesitate to reach out to our wonderful customer service team if you happen to run into any questions during your planning phase! :) Here is a link to submit a help ticket to our team should you ever need it: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new
Soaker hoses are great If you use y connection we’re there is no end.take cap off the end connect the end to the double valve and bingo even pressure all way around
If I was getting water to a newly planted seedling on a farm where I was not able to visit very often, is it possible to use a drip line running from a 3 gallon bucket to the seedling. If these seedlings get 2.8 to 3.0 gallons per week they will grow and thrive. From my question you can tell I have no experience with this type of resource. I am hoping you can steer in the right direction. Thanks for your video.
Heya Wayne! Thank you for asking. I do think that's something we could help with and you will have a couple options. If you already have the bucket, there's a small rig, complete with a solar powered pump, that you could use to pump water out of the bucket and to the plant. It even has a timer, so you could pick your cycles and distribute that 3 gallons at times of your choosing. On our site, this one is called Claber Aqua-Magic. Alternatively, there is also a gravity option that could work -- the gravity option I'm thinking of comes with the container, so it could be a good option if you don't already have the 3 gallon bucket. It comes with a 5 gallon container and drippers to slowly gravity release the water over time, it would be no trouble to only put about 3 gallons of water in it. On our site, this one is called Watering Rock (the 5 gallon container is designed to look like a rock, allowing it to blend in with landscapes when desired). I'd be happy to go into more detail with you if you'd like links or have more questions -- contact us via our Contact Us link here: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new -- that contact link goes straight to us and you'll get an actual person (possibly even me!). -Adam
Absolutely! The "How to Contact Drip Depot" link on our website goes straight to customer service -- actual people, not bots and not automated and we'd be happy to look things over with you :)
Very good question! Mostly this will come down to run length -- with 1/4" drip line, you want to top out at about 20' - 30' (depending on spacing and emitter flow), whereas 1/2" drip line can achieve much longer run lengths, upwards of 200' depending on spacing and flow. The reasons mostly come down to friction loss, smaller diameter tubing experiences more friction loss than larger diameters given the same flow rates going through them :)
You sure can! It's very common in Ag to bury these in fact. I would say it slightly increases the risk of clogging (particularly in 1/4" drip line, 1/2" not as much), but clogs are easy to fix in this type of tubing and they're well designed to resist it, particularly when the water is filtered. An air vent or similar can also help reduce the risk of clogging when burying the drip lines.
You bet! Poly tubing actually got its start in cold weather places because of its resistance to freeze damage. If you have end caps at low points, usually a gravity drain of the lines will be more than sufficient to winterize it. We actually tried to cause some freeze damage to tubing for our winterization video -- we filled tubing up 100% full with water, capped both sides and put it the freezer for a few weeks. No damage, and we were hoping for some so we could use it in the video to show the importance of winterization. I still recommend winterizing by draining the lines, but it does show the resistance to freeze damage is a real property of the tubing :) The head assembly parts (timer, filter, pressure regulator) should still come in, but the tubing itself is safe to leave outside over winter and above-ground once it's drained. Likewise with emitters if they're drained.
Love this simple and informational😁
Thank for for this video. I don't have any irigation and was wanting to do soaker hoses but now after you great information I am going to do it your way. Thank you so much for making the time to teach us.
So glad you found our video helpful -- Drip Irrigation is definitely the way to go! Please don't hesitate to reach out to our wonderful customer service team if you happen to run into any questions during your planning phase! :) Here is a link to submit a help ticket to our team should you ever need it: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new
Thank you for your simple instructions.
Soaker hoses are great If you use y connection we’re there is no end.take cap off the end connect the end to the double valve and bingo even pressure all way around
If I was getting water to a newly planted seedling on a farm where I was not able to visit very often, is it possible to use a drip line running from a 3 gallon bucket to the seedling. If these seedlings get 2.8 to 3.0 gallons per week they will grow and thrive. From my question you can tell I have no experience with this type of resource. I am hoping you can steer in the right direction. Thanks for your video.
Heya Wayne! Thank you for asking. I do think that's something we could help with and you will have a couple options. If you already have the bucket, there's a small rig, complete with a solar powered pump, that you could use to pump water out of the bucket and to the plant. It even has a timer, so you could pick your cycles and distribute that 3 gallons at times of your choosing. On our site, this one is called Claber Aqua-Magic.
Alternatively, there is also a gravity option that could work -- the gravity option I'm thinking of comes with the container, so it could be a good option if you don't already have the 3 gallon bucket. It comes with a 5 gallon container and drippers to slowly gravity release the water over time, it would be no trouble to only put about 3 gallons of water in it. On our site, this one is called Watering Rock (the 5 gallon container is designed to look like a rock, allowing it to blend in with landscapes when desired).
I'd be happy to go into more detail with you if you'd like links or have more questions -- contact us via our Contact Us link here: help.dripdepot.com/support/tickets/new -- that contact link goes straight to us and you'll get an actual person (possibly even me!). -Adam
this made it easy to accomplish what i wanted. thanks
Excellent. Will customer service help me double-check my plan?
Absolutely! The "How to Contact Drip Depot" link on our website goes straight to customer service -- actual people, not bots and not automated and we'd be happy to look things over with you :)
How do you decide to use 1/2" drip vs 1/4" drip?
Very good question! Mostly this will come down to run length -- with 1/4" drip line, you want to top out at about 20' - 30' (depending on spacing and emitter flow), whereas 1/2" drip line can achieve much longer run lengths, upwards of 200' depending on spacing and flow. The reasons mostly come down to friction loss, smaller diameter tubing experiences more friction loss than larger diameters given the same flow rates going through them :)
Great video Adam! Thank you for inspiring us home gardeners to start building our own drip irrigation system.
Can you bury these?
You sure can! It's very common in Ag to bury these in fact. I would say it slightly increases the risk of clogging (particularly in 1/4" drip line, 1/2" not as much), but clogs are easy to fix in this type of tubing and they're well designed to resist it, particularly when the water is filtered. An air vent or similar can also help reduce the risk of clogging when burying the drip lines.
Is this suff Durable enough to survive winters? Apparently it just sits on top of the ground.
You bet! Poly tubing actually got its start in cold weather places because of its resistance to freeze damage. If you have end caps at low points, usually a gravity drain of the lines will be more than sufficient to winterize it.
We actually tried to cause some freeze damage to tubing for our winterization video -- we filled tubing up 100% full with water, capped both sides and put it the freezer for a few weeks. No damage, and we were hoping for some so we could use it in the video to show the importance of winterization. I still recommend winterizing by draining the lines, but it does show the resistance to freeze damage is a real property of the tubing :)
The head assembly parts (timer, filter, pressure regulator) should still come in, but the tubing itself is safe to leave outside over winter and above-ground once it's drained. Likewise with emitters if they're drained.