To measure between two holes the easiest way with the calipers is to use the inside measurement points on the top of the caliper. the will give you the direct measurement from one outside edge to the opposite outside edge. then you can subtract the radius of the hole to get the distance to the center.
If I am understanding correctly that your method is what I think it is.... then you would subtract the hole diameter, not the radius. Here is how I do it.... Step 1: Measure hole diameters. (It's easier/better to measure a wire that just fits the hole) Step 2: Take a measurement from hole EDGE to hole EDGE, use either the outside or inside measuring function of the caliper. Step 3a: If measurement was taken using outside function of the caliper, your length will be short. Add one hole diameter. Step 3b: If measurement was taken using inside function, your length will be long. Subtract one hole diameter. You should now have the distance between holes, center to center. Bonus!.... If your holes are different sizes, you can add the sizes together then divide by two. Then simply use this new number in place of the true hole diameter.
If you add the exterior dimensions on a courtyard layer (f.CrtYd or b.CrtYd) then the design rules error checker will catch components place to close together.
Well I thought I was doing ok, its saved in the library and I can find it in the library, I can then click on the symbol in my circuit on the schematic, click assign footprint, find it in the library, click apply save schematics & continue, then click ok, but it still doesn't show in the pcb view and if I got back to the schematics it and highlight the symbol it says footprint unknown 😑
With this particular buck converter you do not want to use holes at all. It is kinda tricky to stuff pins between the converter and your own pcb. It is much more easier to solder the buck converter directly on pads on your own pcb, SMD style. This also gives you some space to place more SMD things on the other side. I typically use this buckconverter (the version without that cursed potentiometer) as a sort 'backpack'. I always place it on the bottom side of the board. Just my 2 cents. Furthermore: Nice vid!
You are missing quite a lot in you definition. 1) Defining a courtyard (CrtYd) is very useful to avoid overlapping components (But also a PITA if you want to place parts under some other parts). 2) Defining a fabrication layer may make the populating easier. Basically you put enough in this layer to show how to mount the part. When populating the PCB manually you have a printout of the fabrication layer next to you (To be honest, it am not good at doing this). The silkscreen is more for fault finding, not as much for mounting the PCB (This is not an absolute). You can assign a default footprint to a schematic symbol. I moved from Eagle to KiCad some years ago. In many cases I believe KiCad is better, but there is definitely a learning curve.
What about when measuring a part that is not surface mount? Such as a resistor? I have one that is 48mmx9.75mm. I drew the symbol the size of my component and added the pins. When making the footprint it is only two through holes. Should these be 48mm apart or should I allow for additional space on either side of the component and bend the leads to fit the pcb during insttallation?
Signal flow is normally left to right, not up and down. The pencil sketch is OK but can be done in CAD. Pin numbering sequence in example is arbitrary and is never used as in this example. Use Manufacturer's part numbers for unique parts, not a generic name like in this example. Center-point of of part is EXTREMELY important, as it is used by machine placing. (Not the "module" in this example). For symbols not so critical, but does not hurt. Grid alignment for Symbols is VERY important, as else it could mess up a schematic. TURN ON grids to 0.1" in schematic for correct pin spacing, text not important for this. Making the Footprint turn on the grid, decrease grid resolution until you find the center point on the drawing. Everything in he foot print is referenced from the CENTER not corners like the mechanical engineers. Start with making a document layer outline of the part for error proofing. Read the mfg. data sheet for the part, usually at the end of the document. Use whatever measurement units are used in the document. Center point most often has to be calculated as most data sheet are crap. All pad locations are referenced +-XY from the center. If pad boundaries are in the data sheet they can be drawn in a document layer for the footprint for error checking. Beware of "standard" foot prints. Very often small deviation between manufacturers can make you a bad day. Many foot prints also have several similar looking names, some four or five for the exact same foot print. Use IPC standard for silkscreen *Pin1* orientation marks, and make sure orientation marks can be easily read after the part is placed and not covering it up. This may mean editing every foot print in your libraries, as many foot print designers seem to lack practical experience. The library part, (called "Device" in other programs) also need a B.O.M reference, Vendor, Part Number, Price, and Hyperlink. This takes time, but saves massive amount of time putting a BOM together. I'm not a KiCAD expert
The footprint library in DipTrace is far better! You can also see the footprint AND the pad and their numbering. With KiCad not. I just get freaking errors 29 of them!!! R3 Pad not found in footprint. It had pads when I made it.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
A good basic tutorial which should help someone just getting started.
Exactly what I was hoping for!
To measure between two holes the easiest way with the calipers is to use the inside measurement points on the top of the caliper. the will give you the direct measurement from one outside edge to the opposite outside edge. then you can subtract the radius of the hole to get the distance to the center.
If I am understanding correctly that your method is what I think it is.... then you would subtract the hole diameter, not the radius.
Here is how I do it....
Step 1: Measure hole diameters. (It's easier/better to measure a wire that just fits the hole)
Step 2: Take a measurement from hole EDGE to hole EDGE, use either the outside or inside measuring function of the caliper.
Step 3a: If measurement was taken using outside function of the caliper, your length will be short. Add one hole diameter.
Step 3b: If measurement was taken using inside function, your length will be long. Subtract one hole diameter.
You should now have the distance between holes, center to center.
Bonus!.... If your holes are different sizes, you can add the sizes together then divide by two. Then simply use this new number in place of the true hole diameter.
For a perf board the hole centers are .1 inch. Setting the grid at that makes it easy to set the holes.
If you add the exterior dimensions on a courtyard layer (f.CrtYd or b.CrtYd) then the design rules error checker will catch components place to close together.
Thanks for the information!
This was very interesting and beneficial for me. Thanks for the information and keep the KiCad tutorials coming!!
Great video, thank you, stopped me going stir crazy trying to build a footprint 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
Well I thought I was doing ok, its saved in the library and I can find it in the library, I can then click on the symbol in my circuit on the schematic, click assign footprint, find it in the library, click apply save schematics & continue, then click ok, but it still doesn't show in the pcb view and if I got back to the schematics it and highlight the symbol it says footprint unknown 😑
With this particular buck converter you do not want to use holes at all. It is kinda tricky to stuff pins between the converter and your own pcb. It is much more easier to solder the buck converter directly on pads on your own pcb, SMD style. This also gives you some space to place more SMD things on the other side. I typically use this buckconverter (the version without that cursed potentiometer) as a sort 'backpack'. I always place it on the bottom side of the board. Just my 2 cents. Furthermore: Nice vid!
Overall very nice demonstration
Thank you.
Hey! Love your channel, thanks for stopping by!
@@SimpleElectronics :)
You are missing quite a lot in you definition.
1) Defining a courtyard (CrtYd) is very useful to avoid overlapping components (But also a PITA if you want to place parts under some other parts).
2) Defining a fabrication layer may make the populating easier. Basically you put enough in this layer to show how to mount the part. When populating the PCB manually you have a printout of the fabrication layer next to you (To be honest, it am not good at doing this). The silkscreen is more for fault finding, not as much for mounting the PCB (This is not an absolute).
You can assign a default footprint to a schematic symbol.
I moved from Eagle to KiCad some years ago. In many cases I believe KiCad is better, but there is definitely a learning curve.
Thanks for the comment
What about when measuring a part that is not surface mount? Such as a resistor? I have one that is 48mmx9.75mm. I drew the symbol the size of my component and added the pins. When making the footprint it is only two through holes. Should these be 48mm apart or should I allow for additional space on either side of the component and bend the leads to fit the pcb during insttallation?
Very useful! Many thanks 😊
Signal flow is normally left to right, not up and down.
The pencil sketch is OK but can be done in CAD.
Pin numbering sequence in example is arbitrary and is never used as in this example.
Use Manufacturer's part numbers for unique parts, not a generic name like in this example.
Center-point of of part is EXTREMELY important, as it is used by machine placing. (Not the "module" in this example). For symbols not so critical, but does not hurt.
Grid alignment for Symbols is VERY important, as else it could mess up a schematic. TURN ON grids to 0.1" in schematic for correct pin spacing, text not important for this.
Making the Footprint turn on the grid, decrease grid resolution until you find the center point on the drawing. Everything in he foot print is referenced from the CENTER not corners like the mechanical engineers.
Start with making a document layer outline of the part for error proofing.
Read the mfg. data sheet for the part, usually at the end of the document. Use whatever measurement units are used in the document. Center point most often has to be calculated as most data sheet are crap. All pad locations are referenced +-XY from the center. If pad boundaries are in the data sheet they can be drawn in a document layer for the footprint for error checking.
Beware of "standard" foot prints. Very often small deviation between manufacturers can make you a bad day. Many foot prints also have several similar looking names, some four or five for the exact same foot print.
Use IPC standard for silkscreen *Pin1* orientation marks, and make sure orientation marks can be easily read after the part is placed and not covering it up. This may mean editing every foot print in your libraries, as many foot print designers seem to lack practical experience.
The library part, (called "Device" in other programs) also need a B.O.M reference, Vendor, Part Number, Price, and Hyperlink. This takes time, but saves massive amount of time putting a BOM together.
I'm not a KiCAD expert
Can you please show it's 3D view also?? I shall be very grateful
The footprint library in DipTrace is far better! You can also see the footprint AND the pad and their numbering. With KiCad not. I just get freaking errors 29 of them!!! R3 Pad not found in footprint. It had pads when I made it.
I did all this shit and it still can't find the pad!
"Like so" .....you mean "Like that".