Unipolar 3D printer part 14 - FIRST BENCHY!!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ย. 2023
- Get PCBWay's high quality 3D printing services at: www.pcbway.com/ !
The TIME HAS COME for the first test prints on my $50 3D printer project!!! At first I had some really terrible results until I realized the awfully brittle green PLA I was using was responsible for most of it, and using some newer Geeetech filament fixed many of them. What it couldn't fix was a healthy amount of layer shift in the X-axis but I already hinted at something of the sort happening in episode 7: • Building a unipolar 3D... and since I want to install lead screws on this printer ASAP that's not a big deal. Unfortunately I somehow managed to smash my glass printbed in the process of filming this video, so I'll have to make a new one before the next episode.
Thanks to Hollyland for providing their Lark M1 wireless lavalier microphone:
bit.ly/49ib8Qy *
Here's some affiliate links** to parts I got for this printer:
5pcs A4988 stepper motor drivers: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Apv00b
Cheapy hotend kit: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A217Gn
Arduino mega 2560: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AnxG2B
Geeetech PLA filament: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBW...
4010 turbine fan: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AnUid9
100k NTC temperature sensor for heated bed: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A9cOwJ
10m nylon coated fishing line: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9HKabt
Keep in mind I got a few of these items during sale, so the total might well be above $50 now (especially with inflation)
* Don't ask me why they wanted me to put a link to a French store in particular, their official website is www.hollyland.com/ but you can also find the mic at major retailers like amazon and aliexpress ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
** if you decide to purchase something through an affiliate link I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you :)
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I guess this ends on a bit of a bittersweet note!
What did you guys expect the print quality to be like, better or worse?
We expected it to be interesting, and I doubt it won't be.
I think you won't be disappointed 😅
So happy to see it going finally, it needs tuned really bad I'd suggest googling "teaching tech 3d printer calibration" which will walk you thru step by step and dial in your printer!
well if not for sliping x drive i presume (you are using marlin right now?) that is pretty much the quality i expected, a bit faster maybe, but i have no idea where 1mm nozle even came from, it require a lot of flow to satysfi and a lot of heat to malt plastic evenly, and good fan to cool down, so i did not expected to see bogger nozzles than "standard" 0,4.
but you keep talking leadscrew conversion and it will be even slower because you don't even expect how much speed it needs to move
1,25A nema 17 motor can only push m8 threaded rod with a x gantry about 10 mm/s without loosing steps, 4 leads leadscrew probably could move it twice as fast but also with more torque required for slower speed, this is why leadscrews are used on mils but rarely on 3d printers as x-y drive
why not go with proven toothed belt and stationary motors?
I think the quality was great!
How many times did you loop the string around the x-axis pulley? Can you do more loops, or does the string get tangled?
If it gets tangled, you can cut a section of bolt and mount it to the shaft to guide the string loops so they don't tangle with each other.
To keep the bolt thin, mount the section of bolt to the motor from the outsides of both (like a o -clamp of epoxy).
Or try using different string. Monofilament will slip.
Are you using fly-fishing line (i forget the name)?
Man, I must congratulate you. You built this printer from the ground up and just for it to print anything at all, it is a huge accomplishment! I am in the 3D printing world since 2019 and I can tell you, this machine of yours can print much better with very little modifications. If I can give you only one advice, make that bowden tube the shorter you can. I did it on my Ender 3 and it improved a lot artefacts and under extrusion problems.
Thank you! Ultimately I plan on removing the bowden tube altogether and turning it into a direct drive!
@@ChronicMechatronicdo reverse bowden instead! Makes loading and unloading filament much easier.
@@xiar5546 nah I decided I don't like bowden at all, I'll put the spool on top and have it feed like on the Prusa I3. Reverse bowden still requires torque from the extruder to pull the filament through, so the only surefire way to make that 28BYJ-48 work is without one...
@@ChronicMechatronic😊 Is better
I agree! The fact that it's made from wood & technically operates as intended is pretty amazing!
I have been following this series from part 5, I loved this series as it was like the old days of reprap where you made a printer out of anything and it somehow worked but even though the print quality wasnt the best you had fun (for the most part) also following that 50 dollar budget was insane. Good work!
It's not over yet! I'm sure I can get the print quality up to a reasonable standard, even within the $50 budget (pretty sure I have like $4 left over and the threaded rods for lead screws only adds like 80 cents...)
But yeah, I had a lot of fun and learned more than I imagined I would!
Next video BTW will be a rundown of all the things I could have done better - which, to me at least, feels like the really important bit 😅
Chronic Mechatronic is my favourite diy-3d-printing youtube-channel , awesome work Benjamin 👍
Thank you ☺️
I’d move the extruder as close as possible to the hotend. Direct drive would be ideal. The stepper is using all its torque trying to push through the Bowden tube. The shorter and most direct path will help a lot. Then decrease retraction distance and increase retraction speed.
Very nice project, congrats. Man, if you mount the extruder in the X structure, like is done in the ender 3, the bowden tube could be even shorter. I think it could improve even more the retraction problem.
Thanks. I might've expressed myself ambiguously, what I meant was I want to turn it into a direct drive extruder. With the filament spool on top, feeding the bare filament down to the hotend like on the Prusa I3
@@ChronicMechatronic Im sorry, that was my bad, i commented before you say it on the video and didn't change the comment by lazzlyness
@@ChronicMechatronic Im sorry, that was my bad, i commented before you say it on the video and didn't change the comment by lazzlyness
No problem :)
I'm sure everyone that sees your enthusiasm , tenacity, enquiring mind and problem solving would agree you have a great future ahead of you. Great stuff..well done so far.
Thanks ☺️
Love your username BTW!
@@ChronicMechatronic Cheers... Bet you were doing backflips at Starship launch and CT might get more than a quick look when you see one in the flesh. Looking forward to you building your own ouy of tin cans, string and scrap washing machine components etc👍
@@Cybertruck1000 haha spot on, I wouldn't call myself a Musk fanboy but yeah I'm following the Starship journey and it'd be a lie to say I've watched a few videos about Tesla... Great idea, instead of tin cans I think I'd use washing machine side panels given I already have to take them apart for the motors. And for the battery, lithium cells from disposable vapes? Sounds like an awesome project!
Remember that even known good filament will suck up moisture and become bad! You can tell by bending it (you noticed it too - if it's wet, it snaps easily while if it's dry, it bends).
Here in Veneto, Italy filament can become bad in 2 weeks during the summer, as it's so humid :)
You can get a cheap food dehydrator, use it to dry the filament and it will become like new! There are loads of tips online on how to do it. In a pinch, you can also dry it in the oven but be very careful as PLA softens at around 50-55C and ovens aren't that precise with temperatures... Or you can build your own with a heater, a fan and a thermistor :)
Yeah, I forgot to mention I already tried to dry that green filament twice, for hours I cooked the living daylight out of it in a modified oven, but right after it was just as bad as before. It's really insane, I can only presume it somehow degraded...
Glad you're having fun with this.
First of all, great job!!! I love all the process you went to get here. I adhere to the idea of mounting the extruder motor to the X axis, it'll make the PTFE tube a lot shorter. Also, you can just use metallic binder clips to mount your glass to the bed, you don't need to drill holes, and it could help with the expansion of the glass by the heat. Can't wait for the next video!
Thanks! Actually I might've expressed myself ambiguously, what I meant to say was: I plan to attach the extruder directly to the hotend and get rid of almost all bowden tube. I like the idea of the filament spool being on top of the printer and feeding the bare filament down to the hotend like on the Prusa I3
Super happy and excited to finally see your printer working despite all its problem! This proves to me that cheap 28BYJs stepper still has its use even though they're not recommended... Can't wait to see what you will do next!
You did a great job with the DIY hot bed. You won me over with that.
congrats on gettting your 3D printer to work! It was a long awaited video from you. I too am building a DIY 3D printer from scratch and ran into the same problem with the screw of the thermistor shorting out. I am building a corexy style 3D printer and its almost complete. I just hope it works
Thanks! If my janky construction works, I'm sure your corexy will work too! Good luck! 🤞
@@ChronicMechatronic Yeah I hope it does. Thanks
5:40 *builds 3d-printer*, is amazed it 3d-prints.
:-) Awesome!
Haha! I know it's weird, but after such a long time seeing it actually come to live for the first time was a special moment!
I've been following along since the first video, man you are amazing!
If I recall correctly you were one of my first 100 subscribers which is awesome! Thank you so much for sticking around all this time!
Great printer man. I started my own work on a frankenstein printer project ❤
Pretty cool low tech printer. Definitely shorten that Bowden tube more. Those byj steppers also have quite a bit of backlash, so if you're using it for the extruder, you can look at the Cura option to prime an extra amount. Or if you're using Marlin firmware, it has options to compensate for backlash.
I'm happy for you! :)
That is a cool first bash, Especially using timber and ply. You will learn and take in so much playing with that. Mk2 will be a beast ;-) Im currently building a long throw bed slinger RC plane Wing/fuselage printer from scratch, I like the way youve used Arduino because thats proved to me it works.. Top job my friend. Enjoy.
for a shity printer it looks realy cool. but leadscrew slow? i use leadscrew TR8x8 and i printed yesterday a benchy with in 20 min 0.4 nozzle 0.2 layerheight if you ask me that isnt slow. still in the progress of tuning. i made my own MB with a teensy 4.1 for the microcontroller
I am very happy for you! The next step is to get filament from used plastic bottles!
sounds like the green pla is saturated with water. all filament will pull moisture from the air. for the best results you should dry filament before use regardless. itll help a ton as that water can mess with a lot when you try to tune the printer. the bowden tube is quite long id wonder if youd fair better direct drive ontop of the hotend.
i think the benchy gives a idea of what is happening to cause the x axis to slip. either the fritction of laying down the next layer ontop of the previous and or the obstruction caused by the previous layer of plastic curling up. the hull showed significant signs of deforming and i suspect its because tiny bits of plastic are curling up at the tip of the hull. the motor cant overcome the added force needed to push that away and ends up slipping
I tried to dry that green filament several times but it never changed. But yes, I plan to turn it into a direct drive extruder to get rid of the bowden tube altogether!
23:35 Those artifacts are from the bowden tube. I'm not sure if it's missing steps or just the time delay from having to compress the filament in the tube before getting any pressure in the melt zone, but converting to direct drive/reverse bowden should eliminate them.
Thanks!
You also have under-extrusion, which is why you have gaps in the print.
Great man
we are almost there👀
Switch from nylon fishing line to spectron to reduce your backlash and stretching when changing directions
It's stainless steel, just nylon coated
Put Klipper on it. You can adjust much more options and it’s easier to change parameters. But I think you will need a Rpi or similar board.
First of all we all must congratulate you, this printer blows my mind for how cheap It Is. You could try buying Better stepper motors like nema 14 or 17, they Will cost a bit considering the fact that each Is 14 dollars plus you must have a motherboard that works with them but they Will make your prints have much more resolution and something like no layer shifting.
Anywayas congrats for the work.
Thanks :)
It wouldn't even really be necessary to buy decent stepper motors, in a Canon flatbed scanner I found a pancake stepper with 200 steps/revolution (the one I used on my demo)
With enough of those all my resolution issues could've been avoided - but well, it requires bunch more effort in part sourcing. I think I'll do that for my next printer :)
@@ChronicMechatronic yes! Now with the lead schrews It Will be even Better; i can't wait to see the next episode
Very good job Chronic. The 1:35 _FlashBack_ was an Integza style comment 😅
Sorry in advance if this has been addressed prior but you can convert 28BYJ-48 to a bipolar stepper for increased torque by simply using a drill bit and then can be controlled directly off a a4988 or most bipolar stepper drivers.
I know, and I kinda wished I'd done that, but increasing the voltage does the trick until I turn it into a direct drive
It's Alive !!
You don't have the mat with the Z axis at right angles. That's why you have a tilted printout. You also have an extruded pod, which is why you have gaps in the print.
the filament would be much improved if you dry it, although it is easier to just get a new roll... The cheapest filament dryer is to just put the roll on it's side on top of the heated bed for a day or two (a cover would be good as well)
Amazing 🎉❤❤
Thanks 😄
If you really want to get janky, print a calilantern, use the calculator to find a skew value, and you can compensate for the slant in software
Edit: ignore this, I saw your other comment reply
Wonder if you change that q4os for klipper? It’s designed specifically for 3D printing and has pressure advance and some other features that would iron out your printer.
I knew I'd get requests for Klipper 😂
I'm not sure it's hardware compatible with that underpowered laptop but I'll look into it. Maybe the UI will be better than the outdated version of Repetier Host I'm currently running on there
Don’t know what happened to my other reply, but I wasn’t requesting, I was offering some advice.
You’ve done a great job, think your x can be resolved by tightening the line more securely and making sure it doesn’t stretch. Maybe another wrap or 2 to help it grip the spindle.
Klipper is just a service that runs on a Linux distro. Think of it like a webpage. You’d have to create a custom printer config, but you said you’re using a ramps copy and arduino. I’m sure 90% of pin mappings would be laid out already by someone else already.
Why? Klipper has put shaping, can help with your artifacts on the sides, and you can set it up without an accelerometer. Little more entailed but you’re the king. 😊
Klipper also has pressure advance which would help with some of your extrusion issues.
Personally I think it’ll be easier to tune your printer, and basically that’s where you are. You now have a 3d printer, Congratulations! 🍾🎉 🎈
Now you’re refining it.
On a side note, I actually found your channel because of the fishing line x axis. Some German,Dutch guy some years ago, built one with dc motors and string. I have an idea that would benefit from something like that and lower my cost significantly. Hence why I searched him and you out.
I’m open for questions or anything like that so hit me up.
You’re doing good Bo!
your benchy turned into a speed boat!!!
Ikr? I specifically printed it in that orientation to at least have it look speedier 😁
Best of Luck brother
Please what IS logiciel programme you use?
Thx
It's called Repetier Host
@@ChronicMechatronic
Please bro you Can help me to programming m'y machine?
I find programme IS very diffuclt
I already used this little motors on my extruder and it didn't work, i had a lot of underextrusion. After prints it got burning hot and didn't have enough torque. Im not sure if it will work very well
I think as a direct drive it'll work reasonably well, just not with any bowden tube involved
@@ChronicMechatronic makes more sense. When you finish the direct drive could you test the max flow of it??? Im so curious
can i use ardino uno for this printer as mega is exceding my budget
As far as I know there's some out there that have done it, but I don't know how it works given the Uno doesn't have enough pins. I recommend you look into using an ESP32 or STM32 dev board instead as they're a lot cheaper. Had I known is was possible at the time, I would've gone with that approach too.
Use skew correction with klipper to compensate for that X-Z skew.
Hmm interesting idea if it works, what exactly does skew correction do? If it just moves each layer by a set amount to counteract, it won't work because I'm getting dynamic layer shift based on how long the print head takes for that layer. On denser layers or bigger objects it's worse than on quick uniform prints
You can dry your filament by laying the spool on a heated bed at 45 Celsius, maybe covered by a cardboard box. Do not come close to 60 Celsius that will melt the PLA.
The green filament is way past the point of no return, I tried several times to dry it and it didn't change a thing
wonderful :D
23:44 gap banding on cube may be a flat of dirty spot on extruder gears
That is so cool. You COULD go all the way and make a mendel extruder and print with weed whacker filament 🤣. Great job, dude!!
Oh wow, the mendel extruder sounds awesome! I might do that for my next printer 😂
2:49 what a coincidence I have the same exact multimeter which I bought from certain someone who got if from a mystery box 😂
Haha, I got mine directly from Aliexpress!
Broh I know it's irrelevant but would explain with aid of animation how pmw is generated focusing more on capacitor charging and discharging,
If someone else made the animation for me, or paid me for the two months it'd take me to make that video myself, sure :)
Joke aside, animation is extremely time consuming. I assume you're talking about my PWM generator based on the astable multivibrator, there are animations for how an astable multivibrator works already out there so I recommend you check those out :)
that thermister short is a very common issue with that style
My congratulations
Once you have a working frame, and ability to print, the possibilities for upgrades are endless. For a great part cooling and the whole kit for mounting everything moving on the X axis can recommend the Hero Me Gen7 platform. I personally modeled some parts to fit this kit on my old chinese printer and it's been a great performer.
Your print quality is on par with my expectations, the thing I did not expect is 1mm nozzle
But why do you want to change the fishing line axis movement system? Isn't it easier to custom make wider "fishing line drum" for X axis, which can withstand all the up-down travel of fishing line? The software changes of steps per mm is easier than threaded rod conversion. I understand that you are limited with stepper resolution, but on video it looks not bad at all. I personally would go with belt conversion with 3d printed parts from modified Prusa printer's 3d models. Belt is quite cheap, you seem to have bearings at disposal, and with some printed gears you can decrease axis resolution with current steppers
Thanks :)
The problem with making a new X-axis drive drum for the fishing line, is that I'd also have to make a new gear reduction from scratch. Currently I have about ~10 per millimeter on both the X and Y-axis. If I install a new drive drum on the existing gear it'll have to be a bigger diameter which increases the length of string wrapped around it's circumference and thereby spreads those 10 steps over a larger distance, which of course reduces my resolution even further. I would have to make a new reducer gear with higher reduction ratio to compensate, and in my case that's ultimately more complicated than putting in a lead screw which conveniently does the speed reduction for me. After I realized microstepping didn't work on those steppers the fishing line was only ever meant to be for testing, so the way I did it on the X-axis it doesn't really work very well (aka the constant layer shift) .
The low resolution may not look too bad on camera, but I doubt I could print usable parts with it other than quite big ones, certainly no gear teeth as every diagonal movement actually results in a stairstep motion of the printhead.
@@ChronicMechatronic but now you have a whole-ass-working-3d-printer, just the right thing to print some custom gears! I just afraid that leadscrews (expetially with off-the-shelf hardware store threadrods like M8x1) would be very very slow to print. It may eliminate some Linear Advance problems that you have on the other hand.
@@Kato0909 lead screws will no doubt be painfully slow, but sufficient gear reduction to get the same resolution would be just as slow. It's really the best I can do with the current stepper motors if I want it to work well. If I went through enough ewaste I could find more 200 steps/revolution motors like the one I used for my demo, then I could go with a normal belt style configuration, but at this point I just want to make it work with the motors I have :D
@@ChronicMechatronic Understandable
I think the mendel in on theme for this one... It is an ultra diy not great, but very interesting mechanism. Imho the next printer should be a modern printer made with this one, the reprap philosophy! This whole project is so cool because you are doing what the community did to get here. pulling yourself by the bootstraps!
You're probably right, but now I already have that V6 :(
When I planned this printer making a hotend from scratch myself seemed a bit too difficult, otherwise I'd have done it in a heartbeat 😂
But yeah, I totally intend to make the next printer a lot better using this one to print the parts! 3D printed 3D printers used to annoy me a lot, because: "how am I supposed to build my 3D printer if I don't already have a 3D printer?" but now that I have one I see the advantage complex 3D printed shapes offer in the design 😅
You're probably right, but now I already have that V6 :(
When I planned this printer making a hotend from scratch myself seemed a bit too difficult, otherwise I'd have done it in a heartbeat 😂
But yeah, I totally intend to make the next printer a lot better using this one to print the parts! 3D printed 3D printers used to annoy me a lot, because: "how am I supposed to build my 3D printer if I don't already have a 3D printer?" but now that I have one I see the advantage complex 3D printed shapes offer in the design 😅
@@ChronicMechatronic your machine is amazing. never get rid of it. I'm looking forward for the next one. I want to build a full reprap mendel like in the old days one day. I started 3d printing when the i3 was already out and always thought about doing it.
hey man! At 8:00 since its a roll of PLA, it can't really spit water, because its non hygroscopic, is think it was liquid because the thermistor table wasn't set correctly or the PID values were incorrect... At least I think so
Sorry, PLA is hygroscopic, tons of people here told me I need to dry it. :)
My temperatures are reasonable from what I've been able to verify, even though it's set to bang bang control instead of PID.
@@ChronicMechatronic I was thinking that the thermistor you got for the hotend doesn’t perfectly match the preprogrammed thermistortable in Marlin eg; its underreporting temperature to the controller. So it may think that its only at 200C but its actually at 250C. This is something that happened to me with a project of mine…
@@Fejszi I know, but if it was that far off I'd definitely have noticed. I measured it with an IR thermometer, and while that's only reliable within a dozen degrees or so, it measured pretty much bang on. And since the other filament worked fine I'm sure it's just the green stuff that was bad.
My English is not very good, I was going to have a question, why didn't you convert the unipolar stepper motor to a bibolar stepper motor?
I did a long explanation of that in a previous video, converted bipolar and real bipolar aren't quite the same thing, but main reason was the excuse to make a PCB for the sponsor 🤫😉
@@ChronicMechatronic Thank you for your reply. I cannot understand your videos very well because my English is bad. Thank you for informing me. ❤️
@@Yate669 no problem!
Your English sounds pretty decent though, I've come across much worse 😊
get a box little smaller than your bed and put the filament under the box on the bed and heat your bead to 50C for over night and that should dry your filament out!
I tried to dry that green filament several times and it did nothing. I think it's past the point of no return...
Always print temp towers to see how it influences things. Thermistors are repeatable devices, but not amazingly well calibrated. I print a lot of my PLA at "195-200C" is it actually that temperature? Who the heck knows! It's just the setpoint where I get good temperature towers with PLA. I have ABS that I have to print at "215C" or it looks just like your PLA, foamy and oozes like crazy. Also figure out your volumetric flow rates, in your case you need to slow it down via that. so your cooling can catch up with all the heat being pumped out, IMO. Also you probably don't want to use 0.4 layer heights even with a 0.6 nozzle, I actually get pretty crappy results 0.3 with my 0.6 CHT knock-off FYI, stick with 0.2 heights until it's dialed in, a thicker nozzle is still laying down thicker walls and more plastic, so a great way to make parts stronger with less walls. Also having your wall detached, likey isn't the result of your stepper resolution or anything mechanical unless you have bad backlash or extrusion pressure at that point of the print. I've seen that on tons of different printers in various ways until they are fully dialed in.
I printed a temp tower in my Halloween special and didn't see a difference 😂
Yeah the 0.4mm layer height was a silly idea, especially since it requires more filament throughput from the extruder which just exacerbated the underextrusion... I somehow assumed I need to use a big diameter nozzle with bigger layer heights 😂
What else would cause the detached external perimeter, if it's not the resolution?
The Leaning Tower of Pisa is just a structural problem.
Why did you decide to go for a bedslinger?
Good question, I actually don't know. There was no particular thought behind it, when I designed this printer all I knew about 3D printing was the existence of Ender 3 and Prusa I3, and since those were bedslingers I guess mine became one too. I don't think I even knew what corexy was at the time thb...
Although if I were to design one today, I'd still go for a bedslinger, coreXY seems just a little daunting.
Be sure to use "magic" numbers on slicing height: a z slice must be the exact height your stepper actually causes the head to rise.
Are you doing this?
I'm glad to hear you used 6 v. I told you earlier about my friend using 12v for Halloween pulleys! 😂
*exact MULTIPLE of height
Oh I hadn't heard of that yet, but crunching the numbers just now I get exactly 24 steps for 0.2mm layer height with my 96 halfsteps per revolution and the 0.8mm pitch lead screw 😅
Yeah it was your comment where we talked about the 6V, thanks for the idea!
You could KEEP the x-axis from slipping if you moved the x-axis motor to the end to wind up/release excess string ( much like a belt). To gather string from the other end, loop the string around an idler pulley on the other end, and back to the motor. Now the motor can still slip BUT since the motor isn't actually MOVING along x, you can wrap the string many times around the shaft to increase friction. You can even use a bolt to wind up the string so it doesn't tangle on itself. I did this on a zaxis where gravity provided the tension instead of looping back to the motor. It works amazing. And yeah i calculated minimal cosine error too! It's very very very small.😊
@@ChronicMechatronic were all your previous slices/prints also magic numbers?
you can combat the chromic shift by simply skewing your models in the other direction by the same amount of degrees as the thing keeps shifting.
That was what I thought as well and was totally intending to do, but the tilt angle fully depends on the complexity of the model. For a small uniform object like the cube it would work, but as soon a model has layers with more complex geometry that takes longer to print, the shift will be worse on those and irregular overall like in the benchy.
I guess it would be possible to write code to postprocess the Gcode file and increase X by a certain amount per milimeter traveled, but at that point it would be easier (for me at least) to just install lead screws.
I might be able to help with the Gcode postprocess bit. If you want to try that out you can share the gcode files for cube and benchy.
Well done! I think you aren't that far from getting a "proper" print even with current hardware.
ITS GOT A MOUTH!!!!
Bro I want to try to make this can you supply me with the code for the build?
I used stock Marlin compiled for Ramps 1.4
There's videos out there on how to do it, they're way better than I could do
OK@@ChronicMechatronic
The audio was playing before I saw the video and thought it was Blippy. My bad my dude, my bad. Decent project.
Hahaha!
I really like your project. I would like to help you to improve it. Let me know how to get in contact with you
3Д принтер из дерева... Круто!
I need the prototype of this printer in SolidWorks if you can give it to me please
Doesn't exist, the model was made in Sketchup. Also this printer is highly experimental and designed around parts I had laying around, I don't recommend fully replicating it
The Leaning Tower of Pisa is just a design problem of the printer.
well guess what i was doing watching your video, printing another junk 3d printer, actually one part just finished printing after 3 hours of 0,8mm nozzle pushing petg
add some 1$ nema 17 motors of unknown orgins, broken laptop motherboard, some arduinos from under my bed and the only things i will need to buy is power suply, hotend and lead screws
i can see your design fighting too, but i don't think bare glass of unknown orgin is a good idea, at least not mounted this way because it cracked from thermal stress, you could try mounting it with some clamps with rubber pads but it most likely crack again from the corner that is the coldest, holes as you could see are a big problem
but you could also see that swaping to 0,4mm nozzle make for much less stress on your extruder motor and hotend
if you already using linux on that laptop you can install klipper on it (and mcu firmware on the arduino) and you could have a very nice interface to controll the printer in real time directly on a laptop with no 3rd party programs in the way because now you are using computer to run terminal program to talk to a printer that is doing its own things and may or may not tell you what is going on over serial
Cool! It kinda depends where you are in the world though, everywhere I looked people sell their broken printers for $50 upwards, at which point I might as well buy new ones if steppers is all I'm after. And I don't have connections at the kind of places where old printers would be discarded left and right as if it's trash...
I'm 98% sure the cracked bed was my doing, because after some handling (probably more like banging around) I saw that tiny crack in the corner, which then turned into a big one when I heated it up. And I had done all the test prints on it before without any problem. The glass (from the scanner unit of an inkjet printer) may not be borosilicate, but in my tests for the hotbed I exposed one to much more severe temperature gradients (one half heated to 150C the other cold), so if anything it would definitely have cracked there.
As for Klipper, I knew I'd get many requests 😁
I personally really couldn't be bothered, I think Marlin works just fine in the setup I have right now, but if it makes you guys happy I'll at least try ;)
@@ChronicMechatronic the fact is i am also beginner with klipper , my last project run marlin but i want faster printing than ender 3 just becaose so i am making 90% 3d printed monster of a printer called "the 100" or rakther it's poor defective cousin so i don't expect 100 mm/s printing as the project promises but more like half of that, still faster than anything else i can buy so the printer is literally at this time 3 spools of filement :] and few linear rod rails having seller on local ebay selling used nema 17 motors from dismantled panasonic dot matricx printers really helps because they mostly come even with gt2 gears and vibration mounts
technically you now own a 3d printer if you are able to cheat the system you could 3d print proper puley for it if you counterwarp the model and then slightly fix on drill "lathe" because your warp seems to be pretty consistant withshapes that have the same crossection all the way trough, only question is how about roundness
bro , dont get a lead screw on your X axis , leadscrew is slow , painfully SLOW , just get a standard belt and pully
leadscrew on x and y wont work becoz you will be too slow to extrude and you will over cook your filament inside the extruder before it exits , you need to achieve a minimum amount of speed and flow to extrude correctly
that cube will take more than an hour with leadscrews
also put your filament in an oven at 70-80 deg for 20 min and it should be way better
Lead screw is unfortunately the only way to make it work with these stepper motors. The resolution just isn't there, with a belt I'd need to add more gear reduction at which point it'll be just as slow. I agree it'll be painful to have print jobs take so long but the only alternative using these steppers is living with diagonals being a stairstep motion.
Good point with the overcooked filament tho, it's something I'll have to work around somehow
Very nice, i feel bad now for applauding your use of fishing line as out of the box thinking. At leaste its printing the best it can given the design, you could say flawless. I wonder if turning off the heat fixed some quality issues because ive heard slight fluctuations in bed temperature change your Z height, giving you those artifacts. Its why they PID tune the bed so it keeps an accurate temperature. Since you didnt do all these calbiratons it really is prtining well for what it is. Id love to see AI reach a point where it can take the jankiest of printers and compensate appropriatley. Until then it seems we are limited by play and tolerances,materials and deisgn. But one day, with the powe of AI we wont need such perfect machines i think, they'll just compensate. Printers print blind basically, its amazing we can get them to be as good as they are. Well done, and you wach, 100 years from now people will have perfect prints , wierd ugly prints will be rare and sought after, and people will prupsoley make algorthims to immitate early printer artifacts for that retro 3d printing feel.
It's not really fault of the fishing line per se I think, just the sloppy way I implemented it makes it look bad. After all the Y-axis works fine without any layer shift. I'm not sure I would trust it to not at least slightly shift on really long multi day print jobs, but as long as it's done correctly it should work. Also very important is to take the bending radius into consideration or else it will result in metal fatigue. I've had the X-axis line break on me several times already, the Y-axis one was fine after I switched from the thicker 0.5mm stuff to two parallel runs of 0.3mm line (heatbed episode).
Most of the artifacts were from underextrusion I think, my bed theoretically shouldn't move up and down since the leveling screws are attached directly to the glass instead of to a metal plate underneath that could warp. I'm actually running neither bed nor hotend on PID, just old fashioned bang bang control since I wasn't keen on having to tune things. Definitely need to reflash the firmware to fix that.
I hope in 100 years we've come up with something better than pumping dinosaur juice through glorified glue guns to build stuff though...
Yeah 100 years is way far off, by then we will be programming idividual atoms to make things maybe. More like 10 years people will be longing for imperfect retro 3d prints after they've gotten perfect. But you never know what the future hold, im starting to think it will be more plastic then metal, i have a lot more respect for this material. My monitor would be 10lbs hevier if i needed a metal eneclosure. Its still not metal, maybe carbon fibrer replaces that in the future. Like if you could print carbon fibre to any form. Maybe they'll look back at this age as the metal age, a tough dirty, finger cutting age of metal ,grease and fire, that gives way to the soft plastic electric carbon powered future? @@ChronicMechatronic
ithink the next step is making 3d printed cosplay
If the printer can print its own parts I can buy the parts
Is this the 'not how to do it' channel? lol I am going to build a $20 pcb etch like this..
Yes lol! Looks like I'm somehow addicted to building shitty CNCs haha
btw, i'm pretty sure you can control the unipolar stepper as a bipolar by just not using the center taps. It doesn't require any extra hardware (or like the other youtube actually cut the trace)@@ChronicMechatronic
@murraymadness4674 I did for X and Y! No idea what episode it was in, but I used only four of the six pins.
Огонь!
i get how repetier host is neccessary without a PI (or any other computer) as a Host, but it still is one of the worst pieces of Software i ever had the misfortune to use
The outdated version I have on that Linux laptop is even worse than the newest windows release
I hope I helped you.
ты просто сумашедший XD
удачи!
Why arent you using a .4mm nozzle?
I am if you watched far enough into the video
@@ChronicMechatronicYeah i saw that sorry 😂 I just thought you only had a 1mm nozzle or something
@@rubenstenlund ah okay, the reason I stuck to bigger nozzles at first, was the low positioning resolution of the print head. With a 1mm nozzle a single misstep only makes up 10% of the diameter, but with a 0.4 it's already 25%.
However those concerns were apparently unnecessary, given the result wasn't actually any worse whith the 0.4mm one.
But after switching to 0.6mm I somehow lost the 1mm nozzle, so now it's the other way round 😅
now for the real challange: klipperize it
I knew I'd get lots of people screaming: KLIPPER!!! 😂
Sorry for english it's not my native language.
BEEED