Snapmaker 2.0 - DIY Rotary Module - part 1

แชร์
ฝัง
  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ธ.ค. 2024

ความคิดเห็น •

  • @reevan8
    @reevan8 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    You're awesome for creating this and sharing all the details! Thank you!!

  • @christophermccool7305
    @christophermccool7305 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You seem to be the leader in solid mods for the Snapmaker. I’m wondering if you’ve looked at or if the BigTreeTech Ebb36/42 boards would work for developing modules. They look ideal for making better Laser/CNC/3DP modules if firmware can be figured out, but that’s not my talent.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi,
      thanks for the nice feedback.
      I haven't heard about BigTreeTech Ebb36/42 so far - I'll take a closer look at these boards when I have some free time.

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    it's been a while since I contacted you.
    I had a lot of fun at the rotary until today.
    Suddenly I can't run a run boundery anymore.
    B positioning with 1 and 5 degrees is no problem, that works without problems.
    At the run boundery I hear an abrasive sound and the rotor barely rotates.
    Do you have an idea what that might be? I have already tightened the screws in the stepper motor, but they were tight.
    Kind Regards.

  • @vireshnatha850
    @vireshnatha850 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi,
    Are you able to share all the links for the items that were used

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Links for the components you can find in the description of the second part .

    • @vireshnatha850
      @vireshnatha850 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin thank you

  • @mohamadteskie398
    @mohamadteskie398 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Hi Ronin,
    Very impressed by your skills. I regret not seeing your video earlier.
    I have completed the full project. I have 2 problems now:
    1. Rotation direction is flipped. How can this be fixed?
    2. The scale of the rotation is wrong. If I try to laser a square on a round object, the outcome is a rectangle (on the B axis).
    I am very sure the file is done right as I used Snapmaker Rotary tool before.
    Thank you!

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hi @mohamadteskie398,
      if the rotation is flipped then swap the two motor wires. If you used the same stepper motor type (17HS15-0404S), the connection to terminals is as follows:
      A2 - blue,
      A1 - green,
      B1 - black,
      B2 - red
      Regarding the scale: it is appropriate if:
      - the motor has 200 steps
      - the planetary gear has a ratio of 100:1
      - the gears of the toothed belts have a ratio of 1:2
      Do a test directly from the Snapmaker screen and rotate, for example, 90 degrees. What is the effect?
      P.S.
      One person wrote to me about similar symptoms - the stepper motor shaft was sliding in the gear (it was not tightened properly). Check - it can be it, also check that the pulleys on the shaft do not slip. On the shaft, I made indentations for the heads of the bolts to make sure that the pulleys will not slip.
      Good luck, let me know.
      Regards
      Ronin

    • @mohamadteskie398
      @mohamadteskie398 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@RoninRonin
      Thank you for getting back to me. I have fixed the rotation direction issue.
      Regarding the scale, I think I found the issue. The P/N you suggested is PLE17-G100 and what I ordered is EG17-G100.
      I tried to move the B axis 360 degrees on the screen and that caused the rotary tool to turn 90 degrees only!!
      Any suggestions for a solution before I order another gearbox?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hi@@mohamadteskie398,
      the planetary gear you used is correct,
      but I think you installed the pulleys incorrectly - you probably swapped them. Check if it is like in the video - a pulley with 30 teeth ion top and a bigger pulley with 60 teeth on the bottom ?
      See : th-cam.com/video/caKUuR9GnFo/w-d-xo.html
      Good luck, let me know.
      Regards
      Ronin

    • @mohamadteskie398
      @mohamadteskie398 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@RoninRonin
      You are awesome Ronin. Thank you for taking the extra steps to help me troubleshoot the problem. Everything is working fine now!!
      Thank you again.

  • @brunovandenbossche9283
    @brunovandenbossche9283 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Impressive project!
    Do you also intend to share the source code of the project instead of only the binary?
    Thx

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Hi Bruno, the best version of the source code is posted on GitHub by Snapmaker developers - there are comments etc. I just adapted to this hardware. The program is trivial: it is an array of CAN frame constants values that are sent as responses to snapmaker 2.0 queries.
      In my opinion, more interesting for you is the information why such specific values ​​should be in these frames, what should be changed to support other functions, etc.
      Because this module is connected to the same CAN bus as all line modules - any erroneous changes in the values ​​in the CAN frames may cause uncontrolled operation, etc. - it is a bit dangerous. Before you do anything you need to know exactly where to change, why exactly this and what values .
      I am going to post a dedicated, long article on the snapmaker forum with a detailed description of CAN communication. I still don't have time for this but I know it will be useful for many users.

    • @brunovandenbossche9283
      @brunovandenbossche9283 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin I'm struggling a bit with this. What changes did you make to the build of the project to be able to compile it to an arduino target? Did you just add an additional target to the existing platform.io project config, or did it require more changes?
      Thanks

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Bruno,
      I don't use Arduino IDE - maybe for some simple projects sometimes. In my professional work I use Atmel Studio / AVR Studio etc. But I use Arduino modules because they are available and cheap.
      By analyzing the source code of the Snapmaker I understood the main principles of CAN communication and then I programmed it for ATmega328P and MCP2515. I think it is also possible in the Arduiuno IDE but I haven't tested it.

  • @fredafonso1514
    @fredafonso1514 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    bonjour quelle est la référence du composent en C3 svp ? merci d'avance

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Fred,
      this is a typical SMD capacitor 100nF in the 0805 housing - you can buy it in any electronic component store.

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    I myself suspect a problem with the stepper motor.
    In that case, I read earlier that you used a heavier stepper motor. Can you tell me which that is and where it is for sale?
    Or could the gearbox be broken?
    What do you think?
    Kind Regards

  • @fredafonso1514
    @fredafonso1514 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    merci pour le partage quelles sont des composants a souder sur votre carte ?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Fred,
      The easiest way is to download the schematic diagram - it contains the values and types of components. All of them can be purchased at typical electronics stores.

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    I will certainly apply the linear supports you advised.
    I do wonder if the rails on the bottom plate of the snapmaker are screwed or attached in some other way.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Jan.
      I screwed mine - it requires drilling a few holes in the base.
      Some people use double-sided silicone tape.
      But of course, do as you prefer.

  • @Manu041089
    @Manu041089 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello Ronin,
    great work. I want to try it by myself. Currently I am looking for all parts.
    Currently I am looking for all parts. what parts do I need to finish the PCB. Capacitor, plug..
    Can you please help me find the right parts?
    Kind Regarts

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello,
      you have to look at the diagram - it's shared, all component types and designations are there.
      But if you have problems with something, let me know.
      Components aren't critical, you can use substitutes with similar parameters.

    • @Manu041089
      @Manu041089 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin
      Thank you very much.
      Then i try to order all the parts. 😉

  • @robertsilesian1283
    @robertsilesian1283 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin.
    The first Nano Board programmed with your hex file worked. Board recognized as a Rotary module and was operational for several days. Now the SM does not recognize the rotary module even once. I was programming the second Nano Board and also SM does not recognize. The SM on the CAN bus is working properly. Changing the CAN BUS module did not help either. I connected NANO to the serial monitor but I don't know the speed and something appears on the serial monitor.
    Can you help? What information is transferred to the serial monitor and what parameters should be set for transmission?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi,
      if the rotation module is not correctly recognized, the problem is a CAN communication error. So, check :
      1. Connect the computer with the USB cable,
      2. Run the Snapmaker Luban software
      3. In the console window enter M1999 - this will restart the device and generate a boooting log.
      The logs will appear in the console window, first the "echo" section, then the "other" section. In the "other" section, all CAN modules report ID and firmware version.
      This rotary module should reported:
      ...
      others

    • @robertsilesian1283
      @robertsilesian1283 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@RoninRonin Thanks for your reply. That was failed power supply 5V for arduino and CanBus module, SM now recognizing corectly your Rotary module from NANO.

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    In the schematic I see an XL6090, 24V to 40V step-up converter. I can't find it further in the descriptions.
    Would like your help in this.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      The specific type does not matter - it is important that the DC / DC module has the appropriate dimensions and allows for increasing the voltage to about 40 V DC. Newer versions of these modules available now on the market are the XL6009 and the XL 6019 - I used the XL6009 (as shown in the video at 5:38). You can find it on amazon.com or aliexpress.com - there are links in the description of the second part of the video.

    • @jan.walhof
      @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRoninA'm confused now. The project uses, I think, 5V and not 40V ?

    • @jan.walhof
      @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin I see that the DRV8825 needs 40V. This 40V comes from the XL6090, but this component do I see nowhere further in the discription(s).

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@jan.walhof The 24VDC power supply from the Snapmaker 2.0 controller is converted to 5V DC (for logic) and up to 40V DC to power the stepper motor - it can then rotate much faster. But it is necessary to limit the stepper motor current with the DRV8825 stepstick.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@jan.walhof Ah, I can see now. I corrected the diagram so that there would be no misunderstandings. The correct type is XL6009 as in the reference provided in the description, you can also use XL6019. Thanks for paying attention.

  • @Aieieo
    @Aieieo ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey could you share a link to the source code please?

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    Everything works great.
    Please tell me which ball bearing you used for the tailstock? Is it the 688zz?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi,
      nice to know everything is working fine.
      Yes, I used the F688ZZ 8x16x5mm bearing for the tailstock.

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    so far I have only used the laser, not cnc.
    With greyscale and line direction horizontal I get a distorted image. Plain text becomes italic. Pictures come out crooked.
    I think the power for turning the B-axis is not enough. I mentioned earlier that I could not get to 40 volts with the stepup converter.
    With the vertical line direction setting, it works ok.
    What do you think? What can be done?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Jan,
      Probably for some reason it is slipping on the shaft or gears somewhere. One person wrote to me about similar symptoms and it turned out that the stepper motor shaft was sliding in the gear (it was not tightened properly). Check - it can be it, also check that the pulleys on the shaft do not slip. On the shaft, I made indentations for the heads of the bolts to make sure that the pulleys will not slip.

    • @jan.walhof
      @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin thank You
      Ronin. I check the stepper motor shaft. I also made, already from the beginning, those indentations. Will keep you informed.

    • @jan.walhof
      @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@RoninRonin Hi Ronin,
      A little late, but I can inform you that indeed the shaft was slipping.
      Everything works as it should. I am very happy with it.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Jan,
      I'm glad that everything is already working - thanks for the feedback .

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    My build is progressing.
    Possibly my last question:
    The stepper has 4 wires. I see on the datasheet that the colors are subject to discussion. You have on your board the connections B2, B1, A1 and A2.
    Which color should be on B2, B1, A1 and A2 respectively. Thanks in advance for your help.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Jan,
      sorry for the late reply (vacation trip etc.)
      If you used the same stepper motor (17HS15-0404S), the connection to terminals is as follows:
      A2 - blue,
      A1 - green,
      B1 - black,
      B2 - red

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin, I'm in the process of ordering all the parts. Only the AM1SS-2405S-NZ Converter DC/DC I can't order. Amazon and Ebay accept order and the cancellation follows the day after. Do you have a suggestion/tip for a suitable equivalent?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Jan.
      You can use e.g. IE2405S, IK2405SA (XP POWER) or AM1S-2405SZ (AIMTEC).
      The last one requires changing the inductor for a value of approx. 12-18 µH - check the specific value in the documentation. I don't know which country you live in, but on the manufacturer's website: www.aimtec.com you will find a list of local distributors. International distributors that I use frequently: www.farnell.com and www.tme.eu, have now these products in stock.

  • @scotts8112
    @scotts8112 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hi Ronin. Is the EasyEDA file available for this project? Should C2 be 220uF 50V?
    Thanks!

    • @scotts8112
      @scotts8112 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hello Ronin. I have it working, finally!! I am still printing the other components, I hooked it up to the printer and it recognized the module. Thank you much for everything here. I would like to add a couple comments to help anyone who decided to try this project in the future.
      My first try was with an AT Mega168. I had a couple on hand. Although the code will flash to the 168 successfully, the Snapmaker never recognized it.
      The video has the stepper driver shown in two different positions, make sure you put it in right before powering the board.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Hi,
      C2 220uF is connected after the DC/DC converter - the voltage here is approximately 5 -5.5 V DC, so this capacitor must be designed for this voltage (or higher).
      Links to all shared files, diagrams, etc. can be found in the video description.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @scotts8112 I'm glad everything works.
      You're right - in the second part of the video (at 1.43 minutes) when I check whether the PCB fits the housing the stepstick is inserted in the wrong direction.
      Thanks for noticing that.
      The correct position is shown in the first part of the video when setting the stepstick current.

    • @scotts8112
      @scotts8112 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Another thing to note is that the Snapmaker will not recognize the Rotary module with the 3D print head connected.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@scotts8112 yeah,
      Snapmaker developers decided on this functionality.
      The rotary module (original or my DIY version) only works with a CNC or Laser head.

  • @Dr_Tom_Servo
    @Dr_Tom_Servo 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    So you designed and sourced the main board? I know next to nothing about electronics so my apologies for the misnaming.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      In short, yes. It is a DIY project compatible with the original Snapmaker 2.0 controller. In the second part of the video, you can see how each part was made and how the module works when assembled and commissioned.

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    The output of the stepper XL6009 is with me up to 38.47V.
    I bought several but I can't get to 40V.
    What do you think that raises objections?
    Note: The XL6019 does deliver 40V, but pins do not match the mainboard.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi,
      it probably won't be a big difference - it could possibly affect your max speed
      - you have to check after assembling everything. In my opinion, it will be fine for all standard work and applications.

    • @jan.walhof
      @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you, I will finish the build now.

  • @aristonderbaez8076
    @aristonderbaez8076 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello Ronin, what is the voltage of capacitor c1 of 4.7, is it 35v or 50v?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi,
      any of these will be good, it must be more than 24V DC.

    • @aristonderbaez8076
      @aristonderbaez8076 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin

    • @aristonderbaez8076
      @aristonderbaez8076 ปีที่แล้ว

      Do you have Facebook to send the video of the piece so you can see what I did wrong?@@RoninRonin

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi,
      of course:
      facebook.com/ron.in.16100921

  • @jackmove187
    @jackmove187 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for the informative video, it’s a great resource to have. I am in the process of making one myself and was wondering where did you get the four pin inductor to connect to the PCB? What 6.8uh SMT did you use?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I don't know which four pin inductor you mean?
      The green connectors marked A1, A2 and B1 and B2 are used to connect a bipolar stepper motor.
      The value of the L1 inductor is not critical - it's a simple EMI filter - it can be quite different.
      Value 6.8uH is recommended in the AM1SS-2405S-NZ documentation, if you use a different inverter (eg AM1S-2405SZ, the id value should be around 12-18 uH) etc.
      In this case, component L1 is NLV08MTC6R8 Viking - SMD footprint 1008.

    • @jackmove187
      @jackmove187 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@RoninRonin Ah, thank you. The SMD is the info I need. I got it now. I am not an expert at this yet but I have to take the next step at some point and I thought this would be good next step build. Thank you again for all your work.

    • @jackmove187
      @jackmove187 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I purchased the NLV08MTC6R8 L1 inductor but it’s quite smaller than the one you have on your PCB. Really tiny actually. Am I missing something? Where did you purchase the one you have on your board?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      If it has similar parameters, everything will be OK. As I already wrote, this element is not of key importance in this system, the converter will handle it. Check, if necessary, to make sure that the voltage at the output from the converter is not greater than 5.5 V DC (it would be dangerous for Arduino).

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    One more question.
    I'm getting most of the parts now. But the stepper motor 17HS15-0404S is difficult to obtain.
    Do you have a proposal for replacement?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      You can use 17HS15-0406S which has 6 wires and connect it as bipolar. Motors you can buy directly from the manufacturer www.omc-stepperonline.com or www.aliexpress.com.
      Regarding the other options, if you use the PLE17-G100 gearbox then the coupled stepper motor should have a shaft 24mm long and 5mm diameter.
      Additionally, it should have 200 steps (1.8 deg) and similar electrical parameters (12V, 400mA). Ideally, it should have similar dimensions.

  • @sto2441
    @sto2441 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin, what will happen if I make Snapmaker firmware update when DIY rotary module is connected....does rotary module firmware updated too?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi,
      this DIY module has blocked option to update the firmware by the Snapmaker controller - because it is just a different hardware.
      Besides, this module reports the FW version 9.9.9. The Snapmaker 2.0 controller checks if the FW in the module is lower and then tries to update it.
      In this case FW will always be higher than in the controller, so does not even try to send unnecessary CAN frames related to a possible update.

  • @いっさ-p2i
    @いっさ-p2i 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Can you provide the source code?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi いっさ, as I wrote in a similar comment : the best version of the source code is posted on GitHub by Snapmaker developers - there are comments etc. I just adapted to this hardware. The program is trivial: it is an array of CAN frame constants values that are sent as responses to snapmaker 2.0 queries.
      In my opinion, more interesting for you is the information why such specific values ​​should be in these frames, what should be changed to support other functions, etc.
      Because this module is connected to the same CAN bus as all line modules - any erroneous changes in the values ​​in the CAN frames may cause uncontrolled operation, etc. - it is a bit dangerous. Before you do anything you need to know exactly where to change, why exactly this and what values .
      I am going to post a dedicated, long article on the snapmaker forum with a detailed description of CAN communication.

    • @いっさ-p2i
      @いっさ-p2i 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin Thank you response. i wait

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello Ronin,
    for your information:
    It was fortunately not the stepper motor nor the gearbox.
    It was the step-up converter XL6009. The input voltage and the output voltage were both 24V. I bought a new, more solid, converter. It could even generate an output of more than 40V. The board was a bit bigger so it took some tinkering to get it in place, but it works and even better than before, I think.
    Kind Regards

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Jan,
      Sorry for the delay in replying - I've been very busy at my job. But from what I read, you have already found the cause and solved the problem. 👌Congratulations and thanks for the information. Good luck, best regards.

  • @patricepeccard2195
    @patricepeccard2195 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin, it's really a very nice project, well designed... I really would like to make one for my snapmaker, unfortunatly it's the small one 250T. I'm I wrong to say that your design is for the 350T? Did you share the arduino source code ? if not are you able to do so ? I would like also to order the pcb to get it made by professionnal like jlcpcb, but I'm not sure if I know enough to order with your shared files. can you give me any advise about it ?
    I will appreciate your help.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi,
      All the necessary files are available under this movie and its second part.
      To order a PCB, just upload to JLCPCB shared zipped gerber files. Upload to arduino shared HEX file - as I showed it in another movie. Everything will work.
      Important !
      If you do not have good knowledge about electronics, soldering etc. ask someone with appropriate qualifications for help. For such a person, everything will be simple and clear. Some people from the Snapmaker group on Facebook have already ordered PCBs (minimum order from JLCPCB is 5 pcs). Try to contact them - they have more PCBs than they need and they can resell or even solder for you.

    • @patricepeccard2790
      @patricepeccard2790 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin hi Ronin, thanks for you answer I appreciate and will try to make it works, congratulation for this high quality project

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    Your project can be used without changes (except the bottom plate) for an A250 instead of an A350?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes of course, the total weight (with a tailstock) is 2.17 kg - less than the original rotary modules ( for A350 is 2.4 kg, for A250 is 2.2kg ).
      If you want a larger working area, it was better to mount it
      more rearward.
      P.S.
      For all CNC works, I recommend the use of linear supports, which additionally stabilize the position of the bed - you will appreciate their advantages also during 3D printing. Multiple line support designs
      for Snapmaker 2.0 you can find on
      www.thingiverse.com

    • @jan.walhof
      @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin Thank you Ronin. I will certainly apply the linear supports you advised. I do wonder if the rails on the bottom plate of the snapmaker are screwed or attached in some other way.

  • @jan.walhof
    @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Ronin,
    Thank you so far for all the help.
    I have completed the construction of the rotary module.
    My snapmaker 250 recognizes the rotary module. I see the settings for B with laser. However, the stepper does nothing.
    I hear a light buzzing when setting up B. So the stepper is probably activated by the software.
    I can't turn the shaft by hand. Previously, this was possible. It seems to be stuck.
    Do you have an idea what might be going on?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Jan,
      I don't know exactly what components you used, which stepper motor, stepstick version, etc.
      First of all, it is necessary to correctly limit the current on the stipstick to the value specified by manual of the stepper motor.
      The original stepstick DRV8825 has 0.1 Ohm measuring resistors on the board. Then: Current Limit = VREF × 2. But it happens that there are different values ​​of the resistors on the stepstick - then the setting method / formula is different.
      Also check :
      - you have not mistaken the colors of the wires of the Snapmaker cable (STEP signal should be yellow, etc.)
      - the stepstick is installed in the right direction (some people burned it by inserting it upside down in the PCB) :)
      - have you made all 3 jumpers on the PCB under the stepsick - so that the step division is correct - M0, M1, M2 connected to 5V
      - also check by connecting only the stepper motor (without the attached gear) - maybe something is blocked there.
      Let me know - I will try to help you.

    • @jan.walhof
      @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin Hi Ronin,
      first the components i used: Stepper: 17HS15-0404S, stepstick: Drv8825, Step-up: XL6019, CAN Bus module: MCP2515, everything according to your assignment.
      - I have adjusted the limit of the current for the stepstick according to your instructions (200mv).
      - The connections for the snapmaker cable are correct.
      - I don’t know if the stepstick is placed correctly, in your video’s I see different alignment, f.i. video1 at 8:11 and video1 at 8:29 (current adjustment) are different. My alignment is according 8:29.
      - The jumpers under the stepstick (m0,m1,m2) are ok.
      - The connections of the stepper are 2B-red, 1B-black, 2A-green, 1A-blue.
      I doubt that is correct.
      I now only have PCB board with the stepper motor connected, everything else has been removed.
      Please let me know the right alignment of the stepstick. After that, I propose to continue.
      Thank you for helping me further.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Stepstick placed according 8.29 (current adjustment) is correct.
      Make sure you plug the module into the correct socket on the controller. The rotating module is correctly recognized in each 8-pin controller socket, but the signals (Step, Dir) for the rotation of the B axis are only generated in the Add-on2 socket (sixth from the top).

    • @jan.walhof
      @jan.walhof 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Ronin,
      The Rotary is connected to the add-on2 Socket of the Snapmaker.
      Do You think the steppermotor connections are ok?
      I ordered a new DRV8825 because I think the existing one died. After receivement i will give it a new try.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Jan,
      You wrote that: "... I hear a light buzzing when setting up B. So the stepper is probably activated by the software ..." .
      So maybe motor doesn't have enough energy to work that fast?
      Jog speed of movements given from the touch panel is always 3000 but if you use Luban software for this, in the Workspace window in the Control field you have the option of selecting the jog speed (3000, 1500, 500, 200). So choose jog speed like 500 or 1500 and then try to turn the B axis 5 degrees etc.
      If it works, it means the motor doesn't have enough energy to move that fast
      and you need to increase the voltage on the DC / DC converter for the motor to run faster.
      Check it out and let me know.
      P.S.
      In the original stepstic DRV8825, the maximum Vmot voltage is 45V DC. But some Chinese clones of the DRV8825 module have a much lower maximum Vmot voltage - you need to check with the supplier's documentation. I set about 40 V DC because it was enough for this motor to run at the maximum speed set by the Snapmaker controller and Luban software.

  • @mattnewsholmr6843
    @mattnewsholmr6843 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Whats the correct package size for the L1 inductor?

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Inductor L1 is SMD footprint 1008 (NLV08MTC6R8 Viking)

    • @mattnewsholmr6843
      @mattnewsholmr6843 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RoninRonin thanks willget one ordered

  • @Bl4ckJump3r
    @Bl4ckJump3r 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey @Ronin Nice Project. Can you Upload the Fusion360 Project File? And what is the dimension of the Rod? Greetings from Germany

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi,
      sorry for the late reply - I have too many hobbies and passions :)
      Thanks for your nice feedback.
      Regarding Fusion 360 - I use the free version which is limited to 10 active projects. Those 3D projects in which I do not anticipate changes and which I no longer need after exporting to the STL format, etc., I usually delete.
      This was also the case with the files of this project - so I'm sorry but I don't have them anymore :(

    • @digitalman269
      @digitalman269 ปีที่แล้ว

      I too would like to know what the dimensions of the 8mm rod was cut down to (approximately). Do we buy 200mm, 300mm or 400mm?

  • @shafror
    @shafror 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Awesome work, makes me wonder what you do for living lol. I think my soldering skills are good enough to replicate this, if I can source parts in Canada. Huge thanks! I have an A350T, and assume your code is upwards compatible. I have no knowledge of Snapmaker firmware.
    I'm also building my custom enclosure, would love to see how you built yours.

    • @RoninRonin
      @RoninRonin  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks.
      The code is compatible with the current Snapmaker firmware.
      If in the future Snapmaker developers change something in the firmware, I will probably also do it and provide the appropriate code.

  • @suzettakleppen6640
    @suzettakleppen6640 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    𝐩𝓻Ỗ𝓂Ø𝓈M