i guess im asking randomly but does someone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid lost the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Remington Zechariah Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
I've always loved the concept of Peltier coolers. Mainly because you're draining heat from a source using electricity (which by design produces more heat). While it may not be as efficient as a simple heatsink, it is much faster.
Sorry, clicked comment before asking the question I wanted. I got a ton of solar cells. Rated roughly, .5 VDC at 5 amps. First of all, they are very very very hard to solder together. I had to be so careful. I used braided to series them together. What I'd like to do, is make a better solar system unit. Basically, being able to convert, say the .5 vdc to roughly 12 vdc, (Of course amperage drop). So I started with a Joule thief type circuit. Then to a simple NPN/PNP oscilator to up the voltage to somewhere I can start converting to useful voltages, etc. I ended up doing a two cell series. More like useful 1 VDC at 5 amps. The problem of course, is that this performance of the cells is dependent on the sun. I can't always count on .5 vdc, thats why the converter. So If I have two cells, I can reasonably work with .5 to 1 vdc. But I need a good circuit to deal with these varying voltages, to a constant 12 vdc, or even 6 vdc. What do you have in mind if you would be so kind as to suggest to me some circuits. Please and thank you!
Simply awesome!! I have build one my self but I realised that my cold "heatsink" was to small so I have start again. It's always good to go overkill with the insolation ;)
I think you are the best youtuber, you just put so much time in your projects and explain everything very nice! You deserve way more subscribers! Keep it up bro Greetings from Serbia!
This idea is good for an educational project, but I wouldn't use the on-off type of control you are using, trust me on this I have already worked with TEC modules before. Every time you turn of the system heat will flow from the hot side to the cold one, making your fridge work as a heater when the voltage is turned off, this will cause your microcontroller to act way faster than you are expecting and with that the life of the TEC will be substantially reduced. There are two ways to control the power output of a TEC module properly, one of them is using a fast acting PWM signal (it must have a higher frequency then the heat flow inside the module), the other one is using a linear power regulator, witch is more complex but very interesting to put to work. Linear Technology produces one IC specific for this purpose the LTC1923, it's very good, also Maxim Integrated has a whole line of drivers and power controllers for TEC modules.
to you think that using PWM is a good thing? that was also my first idea on mine, but my arduino is a 5v,and my Peltier is a 12 V, i drive my fan with a PWM pin linked to a static relay. ... unfortunately, my SSR support only 2 amps, and already burnt one o my 8 channels (I'll use it on another project, don't worry for it) so what could be a good solution?... I'm curious because a friend of mine just told me his peltier has died 3 minutes ago... and I'm scared it happens to me too pretty soon.. thanks :)
To effectively reduce the risk of the issue with the on-off thing, you need like a 5 volt low power mode to keep heat from coming over to the cold side again.
This can be greatly reduced if you let the external fan on for a minute or so after the TEC is off. If possible, switching the Peltier from 12 to 5v and finally off(but still leaving the fan on for a while) would give another help in cooling down the Peltier element.
Old Post, but very good point. On off controls are notoriously bad for efficiency. In Air-conditioner land, all the good ones now use "inverter" technology, what really means it's not an on/off control with a two degrees hysteresis, but a DC control.
This is an interesting concept. I appreciate your thinking and idea to create new things. I saw u using a circular saw to cut the MDF. May be you should have have used to cut all the pieces so you can avoid sanding. All in all a great project. Looking forward to see how you complete it.
This is extremely interesting - thanks !Would you consider building a portable hand held size cooler ?This would be very practical and have many applications.
Thanks for the great video! Perfect timing as I need a very tiny "fridge" to keep my solder paste in @ about 10°C max but handy near my bench. I may try another hotbox by reversing the peltier module to warm up the paste without having to use a hot water bath.
This is awesome! I've been looking at building a cooler with Peltier modules and I've been wondering how they could be made more efficient. I know this is 5 years old - but thank you for making such a great video with narration. So many videos just play music which is not helpful. I have a few questions for you about how to set up variable speed controllers - probably a PWM, on fans. I'd be happy to chip in a bit extra to your Patreon campaign if you've got 5-10 mins. Thanks.
a few comments; Peltiers should really be driven with a constant current like LEDs. on-off or PWM regulation of peltiers are generally a bad idea since the loss is proportional to I^2 and every time they are off you have a "leak" between the hot and the cold side
Dude, just ran the module in my cooler, runs much more efficient. It has less resistance, therefore produces less heat. Im only using 30 wattsish to get my 13can igloo cooler down to 40 degrees
Nice build, I plan on making something similar at some point. I'm not sure MDF was the right choice for the inside though. You're likely to get condensation forming which will wreck MDF in a few hours.
Im a student bro.you cant learn these electrical thingy on your own.Even if you can you still need to have a qualification or a.k.a certification for it.Im currently studying Electric and electronic course.
Hi Scott, Using a thermostat will not save any energy in fact it will use quite a bit more so be less efficient. I use a peltier cooler as may main refrigerator. Is one of those small car peltier fridges but is used at 5V in winter and 6V in summer constant no thermostat in this way it uses about 10W in winter and 12W in summer (this includes the peltier element and a fan) and keeps inside temperature at around 15 to 17C below ambient good since I get 4 to 7C depending on ambient temperature. If it where to use a thermostat I will have a lot of loss (during off time) trough the peltier element since the peltier element is a good thermal conductor. Of course a classic compressor cooler will still be way more efficient. Still my small fridge is good enough for me and uses just 7 to 9kWh/month or under 100kWh/year. Your experiment was wrong because you had the cold heatsink at room temperature and was quite large so there was a lot of power transfered to ambient so you did not got good temperature delta.
Makes sense, though you co fused me at the end when you said "your experiment was wrong because you had the cold heatsink at room temperature..." Wasn't it the hot heatsink? and wouldn't the power be transfered FROM ambient instead of TO? Also, could this be solved by having the peltier on at a low power when he programmed it to be off?
+Ciroluiro He had both heat-sinks at room temperature when he performed the experiment he wen used a fan to blow room temp air on both. If the cold side will have been in an thermally enclosed box then the air in that box will have been cooled allowing the cold side of the peltier to get at even lower temperature same for the air inside the box. You can see having both sides of the peltier at room temperature like a short circuit almost. Having the peltier on at lower power will solve the losses compared to having it completely off but still having the peltier at higher power will be less efficient than having it at constant lower power just enough to equalize the losses and keep the inside of the box at the designed temperature. In this case maybe the target is to get the drink at low temperature as fast as possible and cost is less important but this can be optimized by having peltier work at higher power until a threshold temperature is reached and then reduce the power to a level where temperature can stay constant.
Great video. I been thinking why do people use a fan to coll the Peltier module? Why not trap the peltier device between two water sources pump the cooler water around pipes to the fridge back into the hot peltier water side and return to the cold. Would this be enough to cool? If needed might need a fan to cool the pipes. Would this work?
Neodimium magnets in the door, the density of the insulation higher is better. The peltier modules in the bottom and the thermistor in the top for convection effect. what if you uses two peltier modules, the first one for cooling the refrigerator like the video, the second attached to the hot side of the first for use it like a energy generator, with the energy generated I think would supply power to a small fan or even the arduino. was just thinking...
I'm actually making the exact same thing, I just took my dead ps3 fan instead of pc cooler.. but thank you to make me understand how work peltier module ! you're awesome :D the difference with my thing is that I'm also managing the fan's speed, because ps3 fans are really loud but one more thank you!
+Jordan FISSEUX use the PWM method pulse the power on very fast at different intervals for different speeds, he shows how to make on I do believe but there are tutorials on youtube
kevin tate I'm already doing PWM, I'm driving a static relay with pwm for the fan, and it works perfectly with it, but for the peltier I'm using a normal relay (which are fast enough to use pwm, static relays are 2 amps :) but thank you :)
Jordan FISSEUX Don't use PWM on peltier modules because they lose their efficiency and eventually will die, look around in the comments there are some explanations on why
No need to waste an Arduino on this, eBay has some nice Chinese temperature control modules with relays AND an LED display of current temperature AND setpoint for only $4 or $5 US. They are adaptable to either turn off OR turn on any 12V device at the setpoint you can set with up/dn buttons. And they come with the resistive thermal device sensor (RTD).
have you got a link to one on ebay? great video GreatScott btw love that you've explained how to keep cool without using unnecessary power! that was the missing step for me!
rstevewarmorycom so Would this completely replace the Arduino itself, Would I have to buy anything differently with anything else, Electronics wise? Let me know when you can thanks
Question: Do the fans always stay on and it only the peltiers that get turned on and off ? I going to build one ;but, for my purpose it will be a little larger only needs to be about 70 F (21. C) inside.
Great project! My only comments would be using the pea method for applying thermal paste as mentioned in another comment. Also, i think a copper plate at the back of the cooler would be significantly more efficient than the aluminium, especially where you stacked the aluminium to reach the heat sinks. (of course copper is significantly more expensive). Of course I don't know if the use of a better thermal conductor will lend much aid to an inefficient cooling methods like thermo electrics in the end.
i repair and install cooling machines and will take a look if it would be possible to put an evaporator of some sort and a condenser to a small fridge. all though it would require a compressor and many more components. but the smallest it could be would be still too big for a "small" fridge
Way better than those ice and fan air conditioners touted, yet peltier is highly energy wasteful if you are willing to pay the price including ambient temp increase if environment matters, it will work great.
Es wäre wesentlich Energieeffizienter wenn du die Strom- oder Spannungszufuhr der Peltierelemente regeln würdest. Die Fan Motoren haben einen recht geringen Energieverbrauch im vergleich zu den Elementen. PWM oder ausschalten der Elemente ist nicht gut da im Ausgeschalteten zustand die beiden Seiten thermisch komplett leitend sind und es zu ständiger dehnung bzw stauchung des Materials kommt. Da die heiße Seite dann sofort die kalte Seite beheizt und umgekehrt. Besser ist also ein PWM signal mit einem Kondensator gleich zu richten um die Peltierelemente konstant auf einem niedrigeren Energielevel zu betreiben. ich habe mir letztes Jahr auch so eine Box für Vatertag gebaut, allerdings hatte ich leider keine Zeit mehr die Elektronik so zu erstellen wie ich es eigentlich wollte.
Thanks for a great video) I am wondering why do you prefer relay to MOSFETs? They are both cheap but MOSFETs are smaller and don't click. It would great to hear you opinion.
turning the Peltier completely off at desired temperature is not a good idea because when completely turned off it will start conducting heat from the hot side (heatsink) to the inner cold side. Instead, shift it to 5 volts and it will keep running efficiently and at lower power.
Some time ago I had the chance to salvage a lot of stuff from a complete IBM Blade Center before that one went to the dump. I still have some rather large copper CPU coolers - think something like 5 kg of copper, each. I think those would be quite good for such a project ...
Try to do another one with several of this devices in cascade and energize them with only 10% of the maximum current , and you should get a huge COE. in theory better than the Rankine cycle
I have a mini fridge with a case around your size. The peltier unit is a TEC1-12705. I want to upgrade it takes quite a long time to reach 7 degrees. Would a TEC1-12708 give better temperature, if I optimize the cooling and power supply?
Thanks, I've wondered what the marking on peltier plates meant, I e recently bought a pair of 5 volt ones, TEC1-4905. They can draw around 3 amps each I believe so I can run them from a good wall wart USB power supply.
Hi scott, this is off topic q, i just need a short ans. Since you are the master of electronics. I jist want to know if the potentiometer output or gimbal output or switches from an rc radio remote consider as ppm or pwm signal?
I am trying to bring the temperature of a 10 inch squared box surrounded by a 5 inches of styrofoam down to 20- with a single pelter thru a small hole cut out of the back of this box. What wattage pelter do I need and can it be air cooled or would water work better? thanks
Good day mate! you mentioned before that connecting the peltier with electricity would produce heat and cold energy but if the peltier is chilled or heated it would produce electricity. Why didn't you use diodes(reverse or forward bias?) for the peltier electricity not to travel in your circuit? is it because of the relay? (Bad english, Sorry)
great job great scott! can you make an electric generator from a peltier and a candle to charge a phone? in amazon is one on sale but it's 100 us dollars, too much for a peltier! regard!
I Just Bought one of marlow industries's Triton ICE Modules from Digikey. Im Going to see how much more efficient it is compared to what im using now. They only go up to 6.5 Amps, But Im tired of running 8 amps at 12 volts when I may not need to. I want efficiency which am fully aware is difficult to achieve, even with liquid cooling.
Question about power usage. Would slowly reducing the power on the peltier modules be any more efficient for when the fridge is near the target temperature instead of just turning them off and then back on when the interior heats up?
Would you tell how thick your aluminium is.? I use 2mm thick of aluminium and the same 12706 peltier module. I creat the same sandwich with fan-heatsink-peltier-aluminium combine but can't reach expected coldness. When peltier's cold side was about -5 degrees, aluminium was only about 19s. Any suggestion?
Nice project! Quick question, initially you were using the fan to force air to the hot side so the cold side would cool correct? Then you used and old CPU fan the forces hoy air our from the fins. Is this correct?
Hello Scott. By any change do you have an newer model for a cooler? I want to sell chocolates and I need to make a mini cooler to expose the chocolates. I need an average temperature of 18C. Do you think this project will work? Do you have any tips for newer technology? Thanks.
Oh man 8° mag kalt genug für Ur-Krotizer sein, aber was mache ich wenn ich richtiges Bier kühlen möchte? ;-) Nichts desto trotz exzellente Erklärung, wie immer!
Nice project. Love the ghetto styrofoam cutting!
i guess im asking randomly but does someone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid lost the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Remington Zechariah Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Remington Zechariah it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account!
@Kole Valentin Glad I could help =)
Tired of using a fridge? Just build a fridge!
Lol xD
Small !! and portable !!
Ville O. Lmao
your knowledge of electrical engineering is masterful. it must be empowering to know all this, did you go to school for it?
Effeciency is wrong.Cooling,too American education.
@@murkselferkel1732 He is german.
I've always loved the concept of Peltier coolers. Mainly because you're draining heat from a source using electricity (which by design produces more heat). While it may not be as efficient as a simple heatsink, it is much faster.
As a french i love the way you pronounce Peltier! Thanks for your videos dear neighbour
Sorry, clicked comment before asking the question I wanted.
I got a ton of solar cells. Rated roughly, .5 VDC at 5 amps. First of all, they are very very very hard to solder together. I had to be so careful. I used braided to series them together.
What I'd like to do, is make a better solar system unit.
Basically, being able to convert, say the .5 vdc to roughly 12 vdc, (Of course amperage drop). So I started with a Joule thief type circuit. Then to a simple NPN/PNP oscilator to up the voltage to somewhere I can start converting to useful voltages, etc.
I ended up doing a two cell series. More like useful 1 VDC at 5 amps.
The problem of course, is that this performance of the cells is dependent on the sun. I can't always count on .5 vdc, thats why the converter. So If I have two cells, I can reasonably work with .5 to 1 vdc. But I need a good circuit to deal with these varying voltages, to a constant 12 vdc, or even 6 vdc.
What do you have in mind if you would be so kind as to suggest to me some circuits.
Please and thank you!
Simply awesome!! I have build one my self but I realised that my cold "heatsink" was to small so I have start again. It's always good to go overkill with the insolation ;)
I love your videos. Finally someone makes a proper video about making a fridge with a Peltier module
+John Alfred Thank you ;-)
you are awesome dude.. i love the special touches, the finishing, efficiency and most of all the solid design
This was done in preparation for Oktoberfest
Genau!
@@chefkoch2467 du bist spät
@@leocat2662 So wann fangen wir an?
I think you are the best youtuber, you just put so much time in your projects and explain everything very nice! You deserve way more subscribers! Keep it up bro Greetings from Serbia!
+Infinity Well, thank you very much.
This idea is good for an educational project, but I wouldn't use the on-off type of control you are using, trust me on this I have already worked with TEC modules before. Every time you turn of the system heat will flow from the hot side to the cold one, making your fridge work as a heater when the voltage is turned off, this will cause your microcontroller to act way faster than you are expecting and with that the life of the TEC will be substantially reduced. There are two ways to control the power output of a TEC module properly, one of them is using a fast acting PWM signal (it must have a higher frequency then the heat flow inside the module), the other one is using a linear power regulator, witch is more complex but very interesting to put to work. Linear Technology produces one IC specific for this purpose the LTC1923, it's very good, also Maxim Integrated has a whole line of drivers and power controllers for TEC modules.
to you think that using PWM is a good thing? that was also my first idea on mine, but my arduino is a 5v,and my Peltier is a 12 V, i drive my fan with a PWM pin linked to a static relay. ... unfortunately, my SSR support only 2 amps, and already burnt one o my 8 channels (I'll use it on another project, don't worry for it) so what could be a good solution?... I'm curious because a friend of mine just told me his peltier has died 3 minutes ago... and I'm scared it happens to me too pretty soon.. thanks :)
To effectively reduce the risk of the issue with the on-off thing, you need like a 5 volt low power mode to keep heat from coming over to the cold side again.
This can be greatly reduced if you let the external fan on for a minute or so after the TEC is off. If possible, switching the Peltier from 12 to 5v and finally off(but still leaving the fan on for a while) would give another help in cooling down the Peltier element.
Old Post, but very good point.
On off controls are notoriously bad for efficiency.
In Air-conditioner land, all the good ones now use "inverter" technology, what really means it's not an on/off control with a two degrees hysteresis, but a DC control.
Pretty nice, but I think that the hot days ended for this year *:D*
+Skitty™ | Garry's Mod Player Yes. But I started the project 2 months ago and didn't wanted to wait until next summer to release the videos.
GreatScott! Oh, okay then *:D*
+GreatScott! Still useful for those in the southern hemisphere!
+Jordan O'C (Xenro66) 'muricans and their hot "beer"... here in Europe we drink cold beer even in winter. Beer warms you up!
+HalfMonty11 simple, Just invert the peltier plate
Can’t wait until you hit 1 million subs
Gude!
Schöne Videos, weiter so!
Handkreissäge= circular saw
Sichsäge= jigsaw
Dekupiersäge= scroll saw
now this is what I can say proper educational video ..... keep going on mate ...
overkill is your specialty lol you leave no stone unturned, thats why i subscribed
This is an interesting concept. I appreciate your thinking and idea to create new things.
I saw u using a circular saw to cut the MDF. May be you should have have used to cut all the pieces so you can avoid sanding.
All in all a great project. Looking forward to see how you complete it.
This is extremely interesting - thanks !Would you consider building a portable hand held size cooler ?This would be very practical and have many applications.
good idea, that's like a survival life hack
Thanks for the great video! Perfect timing as I need a very tiny "fridge" to keep my solder paste in @ about 10°C max but handy near my bench. I may try another hotbox by reversing the peltier module to warm up the paste without having to use a hot water bath.
This is awesome! I've been looking at building a cooler with Peltier modules and I've been wondering how they could be made more efficient. I know this is 5 years old - but thank you for making such a great video with narration. So many videos just play music which is not helpful. I have a few questions for you about how to set up variable speed controllers - probably a PWM, on fans. I'd be happy to chip in a bit extra to your Patreon campaign if you've got 5-10 mins. Thanks.
a few comments; Peltiers should really be driven with a constant current like LEDs. on-off or PWM regulation of peltiers are generally a bad idea since the loss is proportional to I^2 and every time they are off you have a "leak" between the hot and the cold side
Your homebrew styrofoam cutter made up for the fact that you drink warm beer - 8 degrees haha. Great video :)
Lefty for the WIN! Keep up the good work!
Love the styrofoam cutter. So resourceful!!
Dude, just ran the module in my cooler, runs much more efficient. It has less resistance, therefore produces less heat. Im only using 30 wattsish to get my 13can igloo cooler down to 40 degrees
Thank you! I have been researching ways to create a mini fridge that I could pop in to a table and be able to grab drinks at will.
I love the fact that you're german :D
+jordnot Recognised by the beer? Haha :D
Most of professional tools and peoples are form German
@@araigumakiruno like Hitler
@@freazy1626 just a piece of paper or blood in body
@@oguzhantosun5687 The whole body
Nice build, I plan on making something similar at some point. I'm not sure MDF was the right choice for the inside though. You're likely to get condensation forming which will wreck MDF in a few hours.
+Wobblycogs Workshop Several paint layers protect the inside MDF from the condense water.
Use foil-faced polyisocyanurate (PIU) board in preference to Styrofoam. Better insulation, use less power, beer stays colder longer.
THX for German Amazon links, they help me so much!!!!!
You even can make small pool on the cold side of module, because water is better heat conductor.
Der gute alte Radler...
im on my way on becoming like you(pro electrical & electronic diy master)wish me luck bro!
Good luck
Thanks bro.stay cool!
MyBikeKnowsNoSpeedLimit s how??
Im a student bro.you cant learn these electrical thingy on your own.Even if you can you still need to have a qualification or a.k.a certification for it.Im currently studying Electric and electronic course.
MyBikeKnowsNoSpeedLimit s can you suggest me some ways to excel at Electronics.I am getting so frustrated with my success rate in DIY project s
great vid scott! btw you have put the thermal paste wrong. dont use a card just make a small drop
writing out stuff seems to sink in more. great job.
Hi Scott,
Using a thermostat will not save any energy in fact it will use quite a bit more so be less efficient. I use a peltier cooler as may main refrigerator. Is one of those small car peltier fridges but is used at 5V in winter and 6V in summer constant no thermostat in this way it uses about 10W in winter and 12W in summer (this includes the peltier element and a fan) and keeps inside temperature at around 15 to 17C below ambient good since I get 4 to 7C depending on ambient temperature.
If it where to use a thermostat I will have a lot of loss (during off time) trough the peltier element since the peltier element is a good thermal conductor.
Of course a classic compressor cooler will still be way more efficient.
Still my small fridge is good enough for me and uses just 7 to 9kWh/month or under 100kWh/year.
Your experiment was wrong because you had the cold heatsink at room temperature and was quite large so there was a lot of power transfered to ambient so you did not got good temperature delta.
Makes sense, though you co fused me at the end when you said "your experiment was wrong because you had the cold heatsink at room temperature..." Wasn't it the hot heatsink? and wouldn't the power be transfered FROM ambient instead of TO?
Also, could this be solved by having the peltier on at a low power when he programmed it to be off?
+Ciroluiro He had both heat-sinks at room temperature when he performed the experiment he wen used a fan to blow room temp air on both.
If the cold side will have been in an thermally enclosed box then the air in that box will have been cooled allowing the cold side of the peltier to get at even lower temperature same for the air inside the box.
You can see having both sides of the peltier at room temperature like a short circuit almost.
Having the peltier on at lower power will solve the losses compared to having it completely off but still having the peltier at higher power will be less efficient than having it at constant lower power just enough to equalize the losses and keep the inside of the box at the designed temperature.
In this case maybe the target is to get the drink at low temperature as fast as possible and cost is less important but this can be optimized by having peltier work at higher power until a threshold temperature is reached and then reduce the power to a level where temperature can stay constant.
What size cooler is this? Car coolers use 4-5 amps at 12 volt. That is about 1/2, and quite a bit colder too, just by changing the voltage?
A video on how to build a small portable room air conditioner would not be bad.😊
Great video. I been thinking why do people use a fan to coll the Peltier module? Why not trap the peltier device between two water sources pump the cooler water around pipes to the fridge back into the hot peltier water side and return to the cold. Would this be enough to cool? If needed might need a fan to cool the pipes. Would this work?
Here on Brazil, we need to have something about 2ºC/-2ºC for enjoy the beer :P
Great project! ^_^
Mmmmm, Radler. Makes me [almost] miss business trips to Germany.
If you don't use an aluminium plate on the cold side, it can reach -18°C
Neodimium magnets in the door, the density of the insulation higher is better. The peltier modules in the bottom and the thermistor in the top for convection effect.
what if you uses two peltier modules, the first one for cooling the refrigerator like the video, the second attached to the hot side of the first for use it like a energy generator, with the energy generated I think would supply power to a small fan or even the arduino.
was just thinking...
Good job great Scott, I’m working on building on my own.
man your the have best electronic channel :-)
Amo tú canal todo lo esplicas y quitas todas las dudas posibles.
Really you are Great, and your projects are very useful........
I'm actually making the exact same thing, I just took my dead ps3 fan instead of pc cooler.. but thank you to make me understand how work peltier module ! you're awesome :D the difference with my thing is that I'm also managing the fan's speed, because ps3 fans are really loud
but one more thank you!
+Jordan FISSEUX use the PWM method pulse the power on very fast at different intervals for different speeds, he shows how to make on I do believe but there are tutorials on youtube
kevin tate I'm already doing PWM, I'm driving a static relay with pwm for the fan, and it works perfectly with it, but for the peltier I'm using a normal relay (which are fast enough to use pwm, static relays are 2 amps :) but thank you :)
Jordan FISSEUX Don't use PWM on peltier modules because they lose their efficiency and eventually will die, look around in the comments there are some explanations on why
Oh OK thanks, I'll just use a if - else if with temperature limits then :)
Jordan FISSEUX But the heat flows to the cold side and heats up the refrigerator fast than you think
No need to waste an Arduino on this, eBay has some nice Chinese temperature control modules with relays AND an LED display of current temperature AND setpoint for only $4 or $5 US. They are adaptable to either turn off OR turn on any 12V device at the setpoint you can set with up/dn buttons. And they come with the resistive thermal device sensor (RTD).
+rstevewarmorycom Sounds good as well.
have you got a link to one on ebay? great video GreatScott btw love that you've explained how to keep cool without using unnecessary power! that was the missing step for me!
Sure, here: $2.00 US Free Shipping !!!
W1209-Digital-thermostat-Temperature-Control-Switch-12V-sensor-Module-50-110-C
www.ebay.com/itm/W1209-Digital-thermostat-Temperature-Control-Switch-12V-sensor-Module-50-110-C-/262136733680?hash=item3d08911ff0:g:e8YAAOSwlV9WSVPw
Item # 262136733680
thank you!
rstevewarmorycom so Would this completely replace the Arduino itself, Would I have to buy anything differently with anything else, Electronics wise? Let me know when you can thanks
Question: Do the fans always stay on and it only the peltiers that get turned on and off ? I going to build one ;but, for my purpose it will be a little larger only needs to be about 70 F (21. C) inside.
"Simplified" schematics.
Cool! I think I am going to build 34 of these for each room.
Great project! My only comments would be using the pea method for applying thermal paste as mentioned in another comment. Also, i think a copper plate at the back of the cooler would be significantly more efficient than the aluminium, especially where you stacked the aluminium to reach the heat sinks. (of course copper is significantly more expensive).
Of course I don't know if the use of a better thermal conductor will lend much aid to an inefficient cooling methods like thermo electrics in the end.
if you use 30cl bear you can probably cool 4 at the time horizontaly, in the case of needing to cool more beers for more people.
Sweet! I have a couple of these peltier generators laying around I bought a few years back. Maybe I will have a use now.
This is a great demonstration !
i repair and install cooling machines and will take a look if it would be possible to put an evaporator of some sort and a condenser to a small fridge. all though it would require a compressor and many more components. but the smallest it could be would be still too big for a "small" fridge
the coolers cant disipate heat. you have close the fins with the stryfoam.
nice project. i like it alot.
"The Seebeck effect"- That is a great discovery! ty. :)
You have surprising good demos sir. Thanks for them. Well presented. Thanks again
Way better than those ice and fan air conditioners touted, yet peltier is highly energy wasteful if you are willing to pay the price including ambient temp increase if environment matters, it will work great.
oh man,,, so much science for this beer )))
perfect timing.. i just received some peltier modules for the (almost) same idea ;-)
Nice video, only a little advice use mask for MDF dust, is highly toxic
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the temperature it cools to depend on the external temperature? So more hot day less cool drink?
Es wäre wesentlich Energieeffizienter wenn du die Strom- oder Spannungszufuhr der Peltierelemente regeln würdest. Die Fan Motoren haben einen recht geringen Energieverbrauch im vergleich zu den Elementen. PWM oder ausschalten der Elemente ist nicht gut da im Ausgeschalteten zustand die beiden Seiten thermisch komplett leitend sind und es zu ständiger dehnung bzw stauchung des Materials kommt. Da die heiße Seite dann sofort die kalte Seite beheizt und umgekehrt.
Besser ist also ein PWM signal mit einem Kondensator gleich zu richten um die Peltierelemente konstant auf einem niedrigeren Energielevel zu betreiben.
ich habe mir letztes Jahr auch so eine Box für Vatertag gebaut, allerdings hatte ich leider keine Zeit mehr die Elektronik so zu erstellen wie ich es eigentlich wollte.
Thanks for a great video) I am wondering why do you prefer relay to MOSFETs? They are both cheap but MOSFETs are smaller and don't click. It would great to hear you opinion.
turning the Peltier completely off at desired temperature is not a good idea because when completely turned off it will start conducting heat from the hot side (heatsink) to the inner cold side. Instead, shift it to 5 volts and it will keep running efficiently and at lower power.
Some time ago I had the chance to salvage a lot of stuff from a complete IBM Blade Center before that one went to the dump. I still have some rather large copper CPU coolers - think something like 5 kg of copper, each. I think those would be quite good for such a project ...
+Gregor Ottmann Sounds promising.
From my understanding if you want to double the cooling you have to quadruple the power
Try to do another one with several of this devices in cascade and energize them with only 10% of the maximum current , and you should get a huge COE. in theory better than the Rankine cycle
This guy is pretty damn smart, definitely want him on my team during the Apocalypse
Yeah this is what looking for thanks for making this
I bought ice :) Great video.
I have a mini fridge with a case around your size. The peltier unit is a TEC1-12705. I want to upgrade it takes quite a long time to reach 7 degrees. Would a TEC1-12708 give better temperature, if I optimize the cooling and power supply?
Thanks, I've wondered what the marking on peltier plates meant, I e recently bought a pair of 5 volt ones, TEC1-4905. They can draw around 3 amps each I believe so I can run them from a good wall wart USB power supply.
Hi scott, this is off topic q, i just need a short ans. Since you are the master of electronics. I jist want to know if the potentiometer output or gimbal output or switches from an rc radio remote consider as ppm or pwm signal?
I am trying to bring the temperature of a 10 inch squared box surrounded by a 5 inches of styrofoam down to 20- with a single pelter thru a small hole cut out of the back of this box. What wattage pelter do I need and can it be air cooled or would water work better? thanks
Circular saw not jigsaw :)
I got very mad when he said that.
I think you should use a semiconductor refrigerator module
Good day mate! you mentioned before that connecting the peltier with electricity would produce heat and cold energy but if the peltier is chilled or heated it would produce electricity. Why didn't you use diodes(reverse or forward bias?) for the peltier electricity not to travel in your circuit? is it because of the relay? (Bad english, Sorry)
great job great scott! can you make an electric generator from a peltier and a candle to charge a phone? in amazon is one on sale but it's 100 us dollars, too much for a peltier! regard!
I Just Bought one of marlow industries's Triton ICE Modules from Digikey. Im Going to see how much more efficient it is compared to what im using now. They only go up to 6.5 Amps, But Im tired of running 8 amps at 12 volts when I may not need to. I want efficiency which am fully aware is difficult to achieve, even with liquid cooling.
Amazing ideas to make life easy .
toller Typ und sehr schlau! wie Pedanterie! liebe dein Video Scott! Great guy and very smart! like pedantry! love your video Scott!
THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR, THANKS!!!!!
Question about power usage. Would slowly reducing the power on the peltier modules be any more efficient for when the fridge is near the target temperature instead of just turning them off and then back on when the interior heats up?
Would you tell how thick your aluminium is.? I use 2mm thick of aluminium and the same 12706 peltier module. I creat the same sandwich with fan-heatsink-peltier-aluminium combine but can't reach expected coldness. When peltier's cold side was about -5 degrees, aluminium was only about 19s. Any suggestion?
how would it have performed if you had used all-in-one watercooler blocks ? :)
Nice project! Quick question, initially you were using the fan to force air to the hot side so the cold side would cool correct?
Then you used and old CPU fan the forces hoy air our from the fins. Is this correct?
Can i use only one relay for 6 peltiers connected in parallel?
Can we use op amp (as a comapartor) with temperature sensor instead of aurdiuno. Also motherboard processor heatsink are sufficient for this project ?
Hello Scott. By any change do you have an newer model for a cooler? I want to sell chocolates and I need to make a mini cooler to expose the chocolates. I need an average temperature of 18C. Do you think this project will work? Do you have any tips for newer technology? Thanks.
Question for your q&a
If you use an h bridge to power the pelt ire, and reverse the polarity will the hot side become cold and the cold become hot?
Oh man 8° mag kalt genug für Ur-Krotizer sein, aber was mache ich wenn ich richtiges Bier kühlen möchte? ;-)
Nichts desto trotz exzellente Erklärung, wie immer!
a perfect beer is served at 3degrees celcius imho slightly depending on the beer ofcourse
Thank you man... I think the part on peltier module is really useful ;D
Might have to get some of these modules and try this just for the heck of it. LOL I have all kinds of big heatsinks.
maby this is a stupid question but can you make a video about how you can use a rpi to control a led strip over the internet