Musings on Radial Arm Saws
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- I get a lot of questions about my radial arm saws one of the big ones is why do I have so many? I think what it comes down to is I just think they look cool. I don't know that they're any better than a good compound miter saw I just like the way they look. I also think you get more for your money buying the older tools. I go over safety then talk about blades and the negative hook angle. I go over each saw and what I use it for and how much I paid for it. I talk about jerking the blade on smaller size and smooth cut of largest size. This is due to the strength of the motor and the momentum of the blade.
Some of the tools used in this project
Radial Arm Saws
MBF: vintagemachiner...
MBC: vintagemachiner...
GP: vintagemachiner...
Cantilever Clamps: amzn.to/1TJmAFx
KANT TWIST Quick Acting Fixture Clamp: amzn.to/1TJn2DP
Freud 8-1/2-Inch Saw Blade ://amzn.to/2qtNTfT
Oshlun 8-1/2-Inch Negative Hook Saw Blade :amzn.to/1TJmTQJ
Amana 16 Inch Saw Blade: amzn.to/2n34xVN
Freud 10 In. Super Stacked Dado: amzn.to/2gs6lkz
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Thanks for this post, Frank. Now I don't feel so alone. Currently, I am down to four RAS, all sharing the same bench and each dedicated to a single purpose: the biggest and most powerful strictly for 90 crosscuts with gauging fence; one for dado; one with inexpensive blade for chopping up trash; and one set up like a shaper with a pair of blades spaced to the desired thickness of a tenon. On very large, heavy stock, cutting tenon cheeks by moving the saw carriage rather than with a sliding table feels very safe and effective. Of course initial level setup of the table and a custom guard are a must.
wow, I like it
I had an old Delta in a small shop at my last home. Due to room, I saw it as a luxury. When my shop expanded, I became enamored with Jay Bates' miter saw station. In hindsight, I wish I had created a set up like yours, but that'll be for a shop down the road. BTW, there isn't a video of yours that I watch that I don't get distracted by your shop. You did a really nice job with that.
Enjoy the thought you put into describing of your approach to the shop and building. thanks for being you.
you should make this a series about all the different types of equipments in your workshop, now that is a series i would love to watch :P
nathann10 me too!!
I used to think I had too many radial arm saws. Now I realize that I don't have enough.
yup
How many you need = how many you have + 1
just like clamps. LOL
So very true. Though for clamps I think the number (+1) would be a lot higher ;)
Thanks Frank, well worth watching as always. I like that the timing of your video uploads so often coincides with my Saturday or Sunday morning coffee. Your collection of working vintage woodworking equipment is inspiring and important as it preserves both the equipment and a window into a time where machinery was designed and built to last for generations, not months. Many thanks for sharing.
Lovely video! Im not a wood worker myself but love learning new things. Thanks, Frank!
I have an Italian made DeWalt 1251 (10"), bought it new in the 1980's with router and dado attachments.......still have it. It was my first stationery power tool and I did both cross and rip cuts on it for decades. If you rip in the correct direction and use the anti kick back pawls it's safe but does create a lot of dust. Now I just use it for cross cutting planks down to size. It's underpowered really so I also use the rocking cutting action to prevent jamming the blade in the wood or take less depth cuts. Still my pride and joy on the shop even though not used as much. The best book on RAS is from Mr. sawdust.....well worth reading it.
Cheers
Well it did rip that board...right out of your hands! HAHAHA. I'll show myself out.
That right there was funny I don't care who you are.
I did that with a molding head cutter. Was like a missile going across the shop and through the divider wall. Learn quick not to do that again. Lol
Feeding the board in from the wrong end isn’t a fair way to judge whether it’s safe to rip on a RAS.
+1 for Pat Newnam. Well said Pat.
Just got one and looking forward to getting it up and running. Thanks for all the great videos Frank.
I never had a shop teacher, but came to a similar conclusion on how to draw the saw across the work. My technique comes from canoeing. I have the strong arm virtually locked, so the saw can't climb forward, it is bone on bone. And I use rotation of my shoulders and torso to complete the cut. You have to set your feet appropriately.
The possibility one might cut an arm off with the radial arm, (maybe it would be better if it was called a "radial track saw"), is basically the same as exists with the bandsaw. There is a reason BSs are used to break down meat. Yet most people seem pretty comfortable with BSs, and yet they are the most likely saw to usher you into the emergency. Positive attitude and skillful use, rule.
I am a big believer in the idea one only uses saws for their safe use. Table saws and routers are other do all tools, but in a world where a lot of us have picked up cheap tools from china and deindustrialization, I don't push tools, the '50s are a long way in the rear view mirror. I have my great uncle's radial track saw, and it was the only stationary power tool he owned. I don't have any idea how many I have... So horses for courses.
I did once do a project with my dad where we used his RS to rip a bunch of 1" pine. We had a Ryobi saw, and we moved it outside. It is not super powerful, or scary. Some of the issues around tools have to do with their power. You can survive things done on lightweight tools that will swat you badly if attempted on huge powerful models. Anyway, it was fine, with two people. It was a little kludgy. And the dust was all over the place.
Speaking of two people. You have to set boundaries. Nothing goes south faster than people reaching into the cut zone to "help". The feeder on an RS or a TS has to have a strategy for what happens in the case of kickback. Be out of the way, and your feed tools need to be such they won't hit you on the way by. The second guy is just there to receive the stock. He should not try to help the basic cutting, or bad things may some day happen.
I like when you "pop" in. I am easily amused.
I had a very similar experience trying to rip on a radial arm saw, terrifying. You're acting was pretty spot on haha
Having a few radial arms saws is also so convenient in terms of swapping blades
My buddy has one, and it truly is badass. Just a gorgeous, incredibly smooth machine. Very precise.
Honestly Frank, I could sit hear and listen to you talk about your old tools all. day. long.
Ok!😂 at 3:18 I actually jumped and my heart skipped when you fed it in the wrong way before I realized it was just a reenactment! 😂 people jump in scary movies. I jump when I see people do the wrong thing on power tools and equipment! FAR scarier than any movie!😑
Oh good. now I'm on Craigslist. :)
I got my MBF from a guy for free. The wiring was drying up and no one would pay. It was complete with a wooden bench made for it by the gentleman's father (original purchaser). Along with a sears 4" bench vice, many blades, shapes, Sanders, etc. It had the Saber saw attachment and an old Maytag washing machine motor mounted as a grinder. All still usable. Ive repaired all wiring and replaced one knob. One question, fo you know where to get roller head bearings? I love mine. And will keep working with it till I die. I'm quite sure it will still be alive even after I'm not.
Thank you for always making really good videos frank. You are a huge inspiration!!
If you look closely near the dust shoot, it says in red letters don’t rip or plough from this end.simple trick is make sure dust shoot Or pawls are opposite of your in feed.
Re your experience ripping with a RAS: “If a cat sits on a hot stove, that cat won't sit on a hot stove again. That cat won't sit on a cold stove either.”
― Mark Twain
I really could have used this video 25 years ago. Thank you, Frank.
I bought an Omga 2nd hand just for the depth/length of cut. It's so precise that I hardly ever use my mitre saw.
Some of the MBCs have the tag on the base. Most of the others have the tags on the column.
I grew up using radial arm saws. I love them, but I think the main problem with them for most people today is their need for space. A chop saw takes up so much less room. However if you have room there's no reason not to have one.
that is true
The other advantage that CMS and SCMS have is their ability to do an almost infinite degree oc ut, right up to about 50, which a RAS can only do 45-0-45.
I use my radial saw to make dados in wide stock, then I rip it on the table saw to make two pieces that match exactly. It's great for bookcases.
+Gary Myers perfect
Nothing better than watching some Frank musings on a Monday morning. :)
I gave this a thumbs up before even watching!!!!!!!!!
Big Mike is talking i tried but im missing a couple. ya know... radial arm saw and all
I grew with the old DeWalt radial arm saw and was taught all the things you mention. I'm a little more comfortable with them than the table saws although I have a healthy respect for what they can do with wood and flesh.
I paint a red patch on table 3" on each side of blade. I use a "stiff arm" technique to prevent self feeding. A sharp blade is really important.
Robert a blade with a negative hook angle with stop self feeding.
Mike West It can still happen at least on every saw I've ever owned (3). Power & sharp blade, and feed technique are key.
Lee Valley published a book some years ago called "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw". After reading that and adjusting my DeWalt, I got much better crosscuts.
I had a furniture-making business - I had a radial arm saw, a bandsaw, a planer-thicknesser and a lathe. With those machines and my hand tools, I reckon I covered all the bases. The bandsaw was indispensable, but I used the Shopmate radial arm saw ALL the time - it was SO versatile! I probably did all the things you mentioned in the manufacturer's claims - and, I still have all my fingers!!
New vid from Frank? This is gonna be a good day
There are zillions of these saws out there. In the 60's, every suburban "Dad" had one. In my work I sometimes have to clean out houses where the occupants have abandoned the contents. I took a brown 1952 Craftsman RA saw to the dump this last week and gave away the one before that, a 70's Craftsman. Simply have no room to store and there are loads of them for $75 around here that do not sell. I myself don't find RAs very accurate and they are VERY non repeatable. They are OK for cutting a clean end on a long plank. I just don't consider them to be good for work better than framing-grade. For cabinets, no. The DeWalts are possibly the best-made ones. The consumer-grade Craftsman and Deltas aren't very accurate saws in my experience. I'm not putting anyone down, if you get good use of a RA saw, good for you.
I love your dust collection. Did you ever do a video on making it
I love em
I confess I did wonder why you had so many but then again, I think I decided a while back that it was because more saws = good :-D Thanks for sharing your musings, Frank.
they just keep showing up to the party lol
Great video! Now pls do one on why you have 6 full-size cabinet table saws. jk😊
I would like to add that in my search for a radial arm saw I read a lot of ads on CL for saws that had recalls on them. The CL prices were about double the recall average of $75.
Very informative, Frank. Thank you for the great videos.
RIP Ghost Frank
i have an old school craftsman r.a.s. and rarely use it mostly because it's in my garage LOL and secondly there's no blade guard for it so I'm a little Leary about using it but alot of good info !thanks for sharing👍 and alot of saws holy crap..
Joe basement woodworking hey! it sounds like we have the same radial arm saw from Craftsman, mine is a Sears/Craftsman. If that's the case, I just thought I'd let you know that that saw was recalled because it didn't have a blade guard and people were getting hurt. you can look it up online and if you want they'll send you a box and postage and all that and if you send it back they'll give you $100. Just a little food for thought
Which ones would you get rid of Frank?
You mentioned the "versatility" of the radial arm saw. I wanted my first power saw to be a radial arm saw just because of this feature. I had no money at the time for a lot of power tools. The saw was advertised as a boring machine (horizontal and vertical) and even as a router. That was almost 50 years ago. I had owned my saw for a couple of years and my work had progressed to some cabinet work (graduated from "just boxes"). I had the machine in vertical mode and locked and was routing a slot. Instead of cutting the wood was "grabbed" by the bit and in an instant my right index finger was routed. I kept the digit but lost some of the nail and learned a valuable lesson. Routing belongs to a 10,000 to 25,000 RPM machine not a 3750 RPM saw motor. Some lessons, unfortunately, have to be learned the hard way--at least for me. Love your shop and your projects and of course your videos. Thanks.
Have you ever heard of Mr. Sawdust? His book shows safety for crosscut, ripping, beveling, dado, and all the other functions of a good radial arm saw. It is available at www.mrsawdust.com. There is so much more that can be done **safely** with a radial arm saw - more safely than with a table saw. Tommy Tompkins has an excellent series on beginning to use the Dewalt radial arm saw. Don't restrict your use of this totally flexible and multi-purpose tool because you are afraid of the safety aspects. In my opinion, it is a quantum leap more safe than a table saw. At one time, there was a BLIND female fine furniture builder who exclusively used the radial arm saw (forgot her name - sorry). She said she always knew where the blade was and where her wood was.
Nice. Thanks Frank. I just think that suction fence you made for them is splendid.👍🏼
This is my new favorite woodworking video. Those old DeWalt radial arm saws are awesome. Totally understand your love of them, especially for dados.
Frank, I wish I had seen a video like this in the early 80's when I worked at a local lumber yard. We had an 18" DeWalt without a return spring. One morning, I had ripped a 1X12 and then stacked the 2 pcs for a crosscut. I did not notice that the blad did not go all the way to the back of the track. When I pushed the power switch (which was mounted on the wall), the saw blade climbed over the boards and into my left arm!!!! Someone above was looking out for me as the blade got hung in the board and when the blade stopped it popped the breaker. I had to unwind my arm. I was very lucky that day. To this day, I still have full use of my arm. So my advice is to put a return spring on all radial arm saws.
Now THAT was helpful👍
I guess im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a way to log back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the login password. I would love any tips you can offer me
@Kyler Morgan Instablaster =)
@Keaton Byron i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Keaton Byron it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account :D
The faint "ow" followed by the halloween store severed hand flying across the table had me in tears...
Thanks, Frank. I have my dad's MBF that he bought new in about '58, a Craigslist early 1030 from about 1960, and a 5 horse, 14" GE, single phase. I grew up on the little one and did most of the crazy stuff that they showed in the books...cut semicircular grooves in faces of boards, ripped untold feet of lumber--inrip and outrip, even broke down plywood with the sheet vertical, resting on the floor. It all works if the saw is aligned and you're careful. Only ever had one bad kickback, on a little workpiece, and it was a missile.
I also have a carcass of a 16", TEN HP, long arm GEX. It was abused and somebody may have paid for that, as the arm end cap is brazed together where the carriage once burst through on its way out the end of the arm. The stop bolt was missing when I got it; probably was on the day all hell broke loose, too. I'd hate to have seen that, but the advantage of underpowered MB-whatever's is that they hardly have the torque to run away like that. They generally stall.
Would my old Craftsman radial arm saw be at risk from water damage, if I put a Lapidary blade in it, and did some wet cutting on large stones?
I've always been surprised by how low you have your saws. I prefer to have a radial arm saw higher up so it is easier to hold it back.
I had a radiial arm saw that I gave away because of the reason you like the Dewalts and they don't have the problem. It was just too flimsy.
Frank, your videos are always great. I love the fact that you mix up topics - sometimes your building something and other times you're just walking is through your thoughts on something. It keeps it very interesting as a viewer when I never know what I'm going to get!
Keep up the great work!
Using a negative hook blade is a great tip! I will put one on my saw today. Thanks! This is a great video.
I heart your radial arm saws Frank. :-D We both acquired a GE from auction around the same time, and mine needed some love as well. But now I love that 880 pound beast.
i got one for peanuts 🥜 and want to sell it because i don't have 220 volts in my shop so a guy write to me and tell me I can put on 110 volts so it's the best tool a never see old and space like you say hahaha hahaha good video btw
For dado cuts, a RAS blows a table saw out of the water.
good to hear a different perspective on using them other than they are dangerous and have no place in the shop.
I remember when I was real young (back in the 50's) my Dad bought a DeWalt Radial saw. I think he might have kept it for less than a month. He made the mistake of just putting a piece of wood on the table, without holding it up against the fence, and the saw ripped the piece of wood out of his hand and jerked his hand into the blade and nicked him. It wasn't bad but it scared him enough that he got rid of it. I have a DeWalt chop (not the compound model) saw and I've always remembered that incident and always remember to make sure whatever I'm cutting is up against the fence and held very securely.
I'm a woman..a barber stylist retired. Still very young 😂 I can't believe I sit here with my ginormous cat on my lap and watch you and all these tools and things you make every single day. I binge watch you instead of Netflix now. This is much more informative and entertaining. You are so funny too
Another great video Frank, your shop insights/philosophy videos are just as interesting as your project ones, keep them coming! As a beginner who is building my shop and also starting a family I wonder if you have done (or would consider doing) a video on your approach to shop safety/education/rules for your kiddos. I think it is great that they get to help out and have their own projects sometimes, and am interested in how you go about including them/encouraging their interest in a safe way.
I really like how you teleport around the shop :)
Hey Frank, what's a tool meetup? I love in Portland myself, would love to know where to come across new old tools, since good flea markets are scarce around here.
great video well heck every video you do is great.... but I like hearing your perspective.... you should do more random talking videos on anything is does not even have to be woodworking related.... lots of other channels have a second channel for the random that might be something to consider I am sure all of us would subscribe to that one also
Two things about ripping with a RAS:
1 wood goes in to meet the blade as it comes toward it and the blade guard is swivelled and lowered to prevent the stock from climbing.
2: you should have anti kick back rod with claws on at the far side. This should be lowered to 1/8" below the top of the stock so that the claws drag the surface of the stock.
All RAS fans will enjoy this: th-cam.com/video/HiGH0Qsu3ak/w-d-xo.html
Stephen Shipley That’s a pretty cool and interesting Video ! Thanks for sharing
On the far side? Do you mean on the out feed side? I just bought a used craftsman and want to ensure I set it up as safe as possible.
im right there with you i have 3 set up and parts from another one in boxes. i don’t have the nice old ones i have the middle age ones. 1511 and 970 type. they are so quiet compared to a chop saw and such a pleasure to use and they make me happy. i got all of mine for less then 75. i’m just getting a vfd to run the 3 phase one i have. I like the bigger 2 ph ones i have as well.
I just got one the other day for 10$ and now I need to build a base and a few other things for it to be able to use it. Love your shop by the way.
I really like your setup, but a radial arm saw is the most frightening tool I can imagine. Nothing intimidates me more! My dad had a Monarch 12" and we used it in ways it was never meant to be used.
There should be a metal tag on the left side of the vertical column that has the model number and serial number stamped in it. I just picked up a 10" Dewalt GWI model for $100. Serial number is 275610. So it was made in 1958. Mine is 1.5 hp. It also has a switch for 120 / 240 volts.
yes.... nice old tech. sexy sassy curves. and to be fair I like my dw1551 more then my sliding miter saw.
Bought my DeWalt radial arm saw at a tag sale for $75 when I was 14. Unfortunately it’s the more squared off looking model but that’s ok. My shop now is small and the saw is in storage and I’ve thought about selling it a few times but I haven’t because I know it’s not worth much. After watching your videos, I can say with certainty that it will be in my next shop, and maybe even this one if I can figure out a way to make the space
Another excellent video. Thanks for your content. Very helpful, especially the part on hook angle and safety.
I don’t always rip full sheets of plywood, but when I do use my 14” 3hp radial arm saw.
Instead of Frank Makes, you should have put Frank Muses on your video thumbnail.
Props for the Alien reference. That's the first thing to pop into my head whenever I see a shot of your saws. ;)
Just when Saturday became boring, this video shows up in my sup box. Just perfect!
I didn't realise you had that many :-) .. no such thing as too many tools
Some things about radial arm saws I've learned. Just based on my own observations, not to be taken as a fact:
1.) Modern cheap high quality blades are made for miter saws, and they must be compatible with miter saws, meaning all the new blades sold in big box stores, have anti-kickback teeth called "Shoulder teeth" in between each cutting tooth, so there is no need for a negative hook angle anymore.
2.) Negative hook angle is something someone invented a long time ago, as a solution for overly aggressive early blades without the shoulder guide teeth. Chainsaws have shoulder teeth called "rakers" in between each tooth, and if you file the rakers down, you cannot use the saw because it will kick so hard when you engage the cut. Buying a Diablo blade, means you don't need a negative hook angle, because they are one of the many blades that have the anti-kickback "cut blocking" raker teeth.
3.) If you are using a very expensive furniture grade saw blade, made in America, like a Forrest brand blade, it will not have any shoulder teeth. It's not clear why they remove the shoulder teeth from the expensive blades, but I suspect it's due to the possibility of the shoulder teeth causing accidentally tear out of the material. Beware that expensive blades, could potentially cause a runaway climb due to the blade having no cut limiting blunt raker teeth.
4.) I believe ripping is far safer than crosscutting on a radial arm saw. This is contrary to popular opinion. But the popular opinion is dead wrong. That's because people have gotten used to using a radial arm saw for crosscuts, and so they have never actually performed a single rip cut. But when you study the design, a radial arm saw setup for crosscuts, is the most dangerous tool ever invented. Pulling a blade towards you on a ball bearing carriage, with the motor aggressively trying to drive the blade towards your body, is perhaps the single worst idea that man has ever conceived. Yes, It's very fun, but inherently extremely dangerous, possibly fatal.
5.) There is no inbuilt mechanism of safety in crosscutting, unless you have a modern Craftsman or Rigid saw with a hinged plastic blade guard that covers the wood completely.
6.) In rip cuts, there are inbuilt safety measures which prevent catastrophic injury. A rip cut being difficult, does not mean that it's dangerous. Something being difficult does not make it inherently dangerous. Crosscutting is very easy, but also extremely dangerous. The opposite is true for rip crutting on a RAS. Rip cutting requires a little more forethought and planning, but the major safety concerns (being cut) are completely eliminated when the blade is set in a fixed position, during a rip cut.
7.) During a rip cut on a RAS, the carriage is no longer sliding around freely, the blade is locked into one position, it cannot move. Thus the blade cannot accelerate and move towards you on it's own, and even if there is an accident, the wood material is ejected AWAY from the blade, pushing your body and hand away from the blade in the event of a kickback.
8.) Rip cutting can cause injury from a straight line kickback. Standing out of the line of the material, in case of a kickback, would eliminate the major danger in a rip cut. But the possibility of having the carriage suddenly accelerate towards your hand, is completely eliminated during ripping. The constant fear of having your hand in "the path of the cut" is no longer a concern, because there is no way the blade can reach you.
9.) In rip cutting, the guard actually does something, as you adjust it down to cover the entire blade. In the case of crosscutting, the blade guard is often set so high, that it really only functions as a fancy dust shroud.
10.) Table saws are easier to use for ripping, but have catastrophic safety problems during a kickback. Radial arm saws are more cumbersome to use and a little more tedious to setup, but do not have the dangerous capability of a severe life threatening kickback that a table saw has. That's because the material cannot jump up onto the blade, and be ejected upwards towards your abdomen or neck, like a typical "frisbee kickback" on a table saw.
Thank you for the long description. It's good to know.
All tools are dangerous to one degree or another, the issue is how good you are a keeping the complacency at bay. You should never use a ras for ripping, ever. Get a table saw and set the saw depth to just above the surface of the wood. If your hand slips on a table saw you cut your hand, if your hand slips on a ras, you lose your hand.
8:37 IMO, you're using it wrong !
Have you tried pulling the blade fully towards you FIRST and make the cut by pushing the blade away from you - like normal ;)
The top of a sawbench blade comes toward the operator and you push the wood into it. Here, the wood is still, the cutting edge of the blade is moving away from you - so I think the correct use is to push the blade away from you while making the cut ??????????????? (Maybe then you wouldn't have to jerk the blade!)
I'm with you in using the radial arm saw almost exclusively for cross cuts. With a little common sense safety cautions there great.
I watched the first 4 Minutes and wondered why you had already changed up your dust collection on your tables, before your switched to your OTHER RAS table with the new setup. :) Didn't realize you had some many Radial Arm saws, lol.
Hi Frank from Melb Australia...
I'm wondering if the Dovètail slides on your deWalts need to be adjusted for clearance/play (if possible) ... I'm always holding my breath waiting for kickback when I watch you draw the saw towards you ... not withstanding your comments about the jerking techque you employ on the smaller saws... maybe Tom Lipton at Oxtool channel could offer some advice on deWalt (gib) clearance adjustment???...
Cheers from Rodney in Melb
Great shop, I love the RAS too.
Negative hook is older thinking. +5 TCG is Ideal. For 10” no less than 40T. Freud LU83 thin kerf combo blade or the more expensive Forrest Woodworker 1 special model co designed byWally Kunkle Mr. Sawdust. Delphi DeWalt forum or OWWM.org are great resources.
Did I actually count 5 saws? Wow.
I noticed a crusty-looking camelback drill in the background. Subject of an upcoming restoration & series I hope??
I have a smaller, older, worse-condition camelback which came to me for free after being lightly damaged in a garage fire which I hope to restore.
Thanks for what you do!
Man, I have nothing against radial arm saws, although I use modern ones that just saw and nothing else (Graule), but must you have the blade extend beyond your back fence when in resting position? That's just dumb. Maybe you know what you're doing but some idiot is going to hurt himself some day.
Good video, good info. One note: I think the reason the blade tries to stop during a cut is because of the direction of rotation of the blade. Because the downward force of the blade is on the near (cutting) side, the blade is trying to "clime" out of the stock. The radial arm prevents that so the blade is caught in between and gets stuck so it stops. This tends to, among other things, throw the breaker switch or fuse for the circuit supplying power to the saw. Your technique of "back and forth" movement of the blade helps mitigate that tendency to climb. Another technique that works is to pull the blade through the stock very slowly and steadily.
Good video, a few comments - I have given much thought to the differences between radial arm saws vs table saws. I disagree that table saws are more accurate. Philosophically the radial arm saw is more accurate because the work is stationary and the blade moves. Table saws are inherently more dangerous in comparison because it lacks direct control over the blade as seen with a firm straight armed grip on a RAD. RAD's are also superior because they cut down into the wood, leaving no tearout, whereas table saws approach from the bottom, creating tearout on the top-rear of the work piece. This is why RADs are the best in the business for finish quality crosscuts. RADs are also equally capable, and safer than table saws when it comes to ripping - safer because you feed against the blade and there's no chance of kickback. Of course you need to feed it in the right direction. For someone who is observant and has an affinity for detail, a good RAD is a more capable tool at the end of the day, for someone who lacks these qualities, it's a dangerous and ineffective tool.
I have a DeWalt Model 500274 9" model that was my dad's, not sure of the vintage, but probably early 60s, possibly earlier. The top of the arm has a much gentler curve so it does not have the aesthetics of the older models. He had a molding head for it (I still have it) that is absolutely terrifying! I will never use it. I, like you, only use it for crosscutting. It is very handy and is fairly precise. Frank, thank you for the palm against the handle suggestion. It takes quite a while for the blade to stop when shut off, which is something else to be very aware of.
Frank, I'm such a slacker I only own 2 DeWalt RASs. Trying to decide whether to build two separate tables or put them on a common table like you have.. Any tips? Pros and cons?
The judicious use of featherboards and ripping AGAINST the blade
rotation can control overfeeding. Also, whenever possible, put the board
in behind the blade and cut away from yourself. I've ripped thousands
of feet of boards that way. And if you can find a ratcheting wheel and
rig up a way to use it with a hold down, it can keep the saw from
throwing a board back in your face
I am torn between the practicality of adding a RAS to my shop for dados (2 car garage) and the space it would occupy. It would be primarily for dados which I find bothersome to cut on the TS as you can't easily align the blade for multiple cuts with visual precision spacing. Anybody else find it practical?
Hi Frank. Living in Ireland we had a site called "DoneDeal" but our prices are no where as low as the U.S. I'd love to get a nice band saw but you're looking at over €1200 euro for a clean second hand. Maybe we don't have the volume as you do over their. ;) Derek
In my tiny little hobby shop, I have two and find I use both. Great video!
The REASON the Larger Saws cut Smoother and Easier is because they Produce much more " TORQUE" within the larger motors that drive the blades : )
we've got 2 radials at the place I work. massive blades. haven't used them a ton, but I've probably got at least 20 or 30 hours on them. things still scare me.
only thing they are used for is cutting wood to length for what we build. no angles, nothing. just 90 degree cuts.
Does a video overviewing RAS collection and opinions, gets downvoted anyway. 72 People are butthurt tracksaw Users.
Hi Frank, there is a group called De Walt Radial Arm Saws Anonymous. Not well known, but they are available to help.....
On the topic of safety, it is important to read and understand the instructions and warnings for any machinery, including the warnings on the machine itself.
At 2:58 you talked about the dangers of some of the "crazier things you can do" with a radial arm saw, and then went on to describe how you attempted to rip a piece of wood, but was unsure of which direction to rip it in, and ultimately ended up ripping it from the wrong direction, putting yourself in a dangerous situation.
And this is exactly why people need to take the time to read the instructions and warnings.
It specifically tells you on the saw (3:55) in red capital letters "CAUTION - Do not rip or plough from this end". Someone has even put some additional red paint on that side to ensure that it can easily be determined which side to rip from.
Tools are generally only dangerous when used improperly.
I find it hilarious at the overpriced ones on craigslist... People think just cause it's old and new ones are very expensive they got something special... Good thing about them is if you already have one, you may as well add a couple more because it's not taking up anymore space.