It's drill powered also it needs even more power to draw in its own fuel and needs a separate battery source for it's ignition and it melts in 10 seconds
I love this stuff because its a window into the past. Imagine you had this crazy theory that you could make a steam engine run off explosions! This is what i imagine it was like, constantly tweaking and modifying to simplify and increase efficiency.
Easy man run a steam train off of explosions. Watch what you are thinking. They might lock you up in a hospital for having such a crazy idea. What next using Hydraulics to steer a car.
Steam engines are more efficient and can be made smaller than petrol engines and can run off of a multitude of materials. I don't know why we shifted to gas engines...
@@madbrick923 naw man! go tear apart an old week whacker, and cut open its exhaust! it's just a bunch of chambers that makes the air move thru and causes a resistance, enough for the engorged to have a bit more pressure! Not all that hard to make out of Lego. Also, please if you can, aim the exhaust away from the points! (spark gap, ignition point spring thing) any unburnt fuel will be ignited by that lol
One other thing you can do is add a sort of "transmission" on the end of it to run the fuel pump at the correct speed in relation to the speed of the piston (could be done fully with Lego to reduce the non Lego parts)
This is the reason why it doesn't work. Without the piston seal, it is physically impossible for the engine to generate power from the burning and expanding gas. I would guess creating good enough seal from lego parts is pretty much impossible. I can imagine some type of epoxy coating for the cylinder maybe, and then sanding/polishing it to match the "piston".
There are many "easy to fix" problems here. First your engine doesn't make enough compression, piston should be 2mm from the cylinderhead at tdc. Second thing is that your air intake opening point should be lowered to at least the middle of the stroke (instead of all the way at the top). Now al your pressure your making with the piston is getting wasted, because the air intake port is so high and doesn't close when the piston is in it's compression stroke. Third thing is to make sure your exhaust pressure goes away as soon as possible. Exhaust should be at the middle of the stroke (or even higher). Don't go to high with the exhaust port else you won't be able to make compression. Don't worry about not having back pressure, that's a story for another day and not important for now. Fourth and last thing is that your ignition is way to late. It should be way and way earlier. Since the engine is made out of legos making compression is hard. So don't try to compress the air and fuel like your doing now but make the ignition timing earlier. Now you'll be already compressing an explosion of gasses into the combustion chamber. Therefore there will be high pressure and de piston will have a good powe stroke. Don't go to crazy though, it's still legos. I hope this can help you, I'm not a mechanic but a 2 stroke enthusiast and I've worked quite a lot on them.
@@kshusband The tip about the ignition timing certainly would. The other tips are irrelevant since in a 4 stroke inlet en outlet isn't controlled by holes in a cylinder. You might even try using a glowplug instead of a timed spark. Way easier, this is often used on smaller engines. Like rc-cars.
Intake port is too high not enough closed room for compression, the intake port needs to be lower then the exhaust port. You can find on google or youtube how a 2 stroke cylinder looks like but yours needs to be without transfer ports becouse you dont have a closed block.
He doesn’t have any compression. The “cylinder” isn’t compressing anything all its job is is for show. All he is doing is putting in fuel, sparking it, and calling it a motor. at some stage he can make it more like a true motor but rn he literally made a air pump that sparks. 😂
That's just amazing. I make a lot of Lego engines similar to that, but I've never seen one that ACTUALLY fires. You should try making a 4-stroke engine, that'd be cool.
Give version 4 some intakeports a little above the exhaustports on the oposite side. And force the air-fuelmmix into the cylinder. You don't have much compression now.
Ok, Great Idea. But If I may make some kind suggestions. 1 try building a hit and miss motor. They run at slower revolutions. 2 I believe your bug zapper power supply did not provide the necessary voltage that particular spark plug utilizes. All modern spark plugs utilize 12 volts. You may want to consider trying a glow plug or boosting your voltage to 12 volts and the necessary amperage. Or look into a coil spark plug system found in the early engines. A modern designed system can be found in lawn mowers and two stroke weed wackers. 3 try utilizing Pure alcohol for fuel. Now I doubt you can get ahold of alcohol used in rocketry which is the ideal candidate since it burns longer and cooler. But you could potentially use high-proof liquor alcohol which is known as ethyl alcohol such as vodka and moonshine and can be found everywhere. I hope that you read my suggestions. I would love to see this project come to a successful conclusion it's a wonderful idea. 😎
A mechanism to alter timing will help! A reluctor wheel from distributor, coil and module, like everything in a Honda director can be simply wired for trigger timing. Just cut other high points and have that one trigger point. Or flat metal disk with high point, like a .010 air gap. Variable reluctor sensor will close the circuit by grounding out coil through module. The vr sensor can just be grounded, and other rising wire will go to triggering side of module, which will get converted to ground trigger through module to ignite coil.
4:17 When you forget to turn the fuel pump on Your intake ports need to be set lower than your exhaust ports for scavenging You need to valve the intake.
If your switching to nitromethane for fuel, you might as well convert to a glow plug and glow igniter. That might work better than a spark plug. PS, you better put the 6 speed transmission on that thing.
Mad Brick cannot wait till you create a efficient engine and join the official LEGO builder team to make products of these and sell them to all the children.
I just built a 4 stroke lenoir cycle combustion engine from an old 110ccm air compressor. Ive learnt a few things in wanna share: 1) compression is everything. Try to seal the piston by sticking pieces of tape to its sides. You could also make a piston from jb weld (check out makerj101s video on that) 2) use a flap/reed valve. You can easily make one from thin spring steel (feeler gauges are made from spring steel shhets in different thicknesses so you can choose from different strengths and they’re like 10 bucks) 3) the carburetor needs to be precisely tunable. You should shorten your intake hose and add a second ball valve to control the mix rate (air to fuel vapor)
I was waiting for this for ages, and it's finally out! I can't wait for the new and improved version! Also, try building a larger box around the cylinder, where water can flow through, it might cool off the legos enaugh not to melt, and make the crank-case closed, so you can put oil as lubricant in there. The oil might cool it from the inside as well. Thanks for continuing the project!👍
A real engine of any kind has an intake and exhaust manifold, the exhaust manifold creates a vacuum which when the exhaust valves open, pull the piston up when it is at the bottom of the combustion chamber. The intake manifold is specifically made to flow as much air that is needed by the engine once the intake valves open but that’s not as important for your 2-stroke engine. What you need is a vacuum to pull the cylinder up on the exhaust stroke. Good luck, I hope that helps!
I gotta say I LOVE your spark plug triggering mechanism. It's simple and elegant, simply triggered by the piston reaching maximum compression, it's wonderful. It's quite unfortunate that it never was able to power it self. I have a feeling that it might not be causing enough boom. Regular petrol would work better then the normal 2stroke mix with your design since you are not lubing any parts. Also lengthening the crank shaft and adding a second piston on an opposite timing would help immensely. It would cut the amount of energy you need per each explosion in half.
7:45 I think whats happening is i think the fuel and air is not being mixed well but your getting the right amounts for it, so maybe you can try to find a way to mix the fuel and air very well and that might make it fire up, THIS IS SO EXCITING!!
Thats really cool. Of course i didn't had the experience you had with the engine, you know better than me but but i think all the engine needs to run on its own is a carburetor for 2 stroke engines and more compression. The engine would still burn due to the legos but at least it would run on its own for some seconds Edit:i just realised that a carburetor can't be used in this engine because as you said in the video, it dosen't use crankshaft power to deliver fuel air mix in the cylinder.
I think the piston needs some form of seal within the cylinder to maintain compression, like oiling rings and such on a normal piston. I think youre only achieving single cylinder pops when the pressure plus afr is correct on that specific compression stroke. There is something to be said about a circular piston as well. A rectangular piston will not experience pressure forces evenly across it and thus im guessing would transfer to the rod weird, as well as weird bore and stroke issues leading to odd flywheel momentum. For the engine to sustain itself that first pop has to be strong enough to throw the flywheel hard, getting the whole system to rotate quickly enough to build high pressure for the next combustion stroke. I suggest going bigger with the whole design. Scale the entire thing up to make everything more structurally sound and rigid, and get enough air and fuel in that cylinder to go bang even with garbage compression. Also, 2 stoke engines are witchcraft and run on hopes and dreams.
tips: put a smaller flywheel, put an air injector so it works, add oil (if you dont have use vegetable oil), when the piston goes up shorten the gap between the piston head and the upper thingy where the spark plug goes in. following those tips it might work idk i dont have the pieces needed to do that
I might know a couple of ways how to make it run by itself you could try and make a square piston ring to help compression and adding 1 or more cylinders would help
Hey, Remember in a 2 stroke the exhaust Port needs to be a little bit higher than the intake Port, and they need to be on the opposite side of eachother in order to make an air flow through the cilinder
Cool idea dude, but what you are missing is compression. You will never get that thing running like that because of the immense amount of blow by. For a decent combustion cycle, you have to have a near perfect or at least decent seal from the piston to the cylinder walls. Without that, you wont get the proper combustion and any combustion that does happen will seep past the piston and out of the engine. hope this helps
yeah, i wont consider this a running engine unless it runs under its own power and not a self destructing drill powered piece of plastic. You were holding it back the whole time with that drill instead of actually trying to start it by hand.
Remember this is a 2 stroke. If you use air pump to pump in the air-petrol mixture you maybe have the right pressure, but the biggest issue with your design, you put too high the intake hole and becouse it you haven't got any comression. Put the intake port down to the bottom dead center almost same level (upper edge a bit lower than the exhaust) as the exhaust port. If the piston seal enough and you have a good compression ratio at least 8:1 it should work :-) . I hope i helped.
A smoother head may help improve the combustion as it would make less surface area for the gas to make contact with, therefore increasing its force being sent downward
I believe the biggest issue with this design is that the intake port is at the top of the cylinder, so all the compression goes back to the intake tube, or is provided by the air pump... You need to place the intake so that when the piston is down, fuel goes in, but as the piston rises, the piston wall should cover the intake, so that the fuel can be compressed, as the piston rises. Ideally you should feel a bit of resistance when you crank the engine my hand, then you know the air is compressed at the top. Also this is a 2 stroke engine, these work at very high RPMs, you have low RPM, and one cause may be the very heavy flywheel, it's hard to spin up that wheel quick enough, and it acts as a brake.
yeeah, it is still not perfect, but it is definetly the best one on youtube. you got the best results out of all people that tried it! awesome, dont give up!
Make a rudimentary carb so you can adjust your air fuel mix and get vaporised fuel rather than just liquid. That might give it a bit more of a kick. Also, a one way valve on the fuel inlet would help with building a little bit of compression, otherwise when it comes back up you’re probably pushing fuel back down the line, assuming it holds any compression at all. Cool idea though though, would love to see it run on its own!
I have a feeling your timing is a bit early. When the nitromethane had a proper thump at it you could see the combustion chamber lift up. and the whole thing "knocked". Everything else seems good enough. Also this being a two stroke it needs some back pressure but I am not expecting any meaningfull power out of this anyways. Get two of those big light gray gear and put one on the crank shaft and the other next to it to which you will have the spring ignition system hooked up. Now you can advance the timing in the division of each tooth. When too early just slide the gears out of mesh and rotate one of the gears in the direction you want and mesh them again. You get a much more accurate timing that way. And that should be it. It should at least semi work if you make the timing a little bit later. With the gear directly attached you can advance the timing in 90 degrees only but if you use two gears you have 360 divided by the number of teeth. Good luck I want to see this thing work even if just for 10 seconds. With the spring youre a little tooo early on ignition
Maybe form a gasket around the piston like a piston ring, so blowby is reduced and compression can be kept in. This engine would run with just a bit of compression built in.
It may be worth trying to advance the timing. Normally the spark plug would actually fire just before TDC (top dead center). Combustion is a somewhat slow process and by firing before TDC peak cylinder pressure actually occurs slightly after TDC. It’s hard to say but maybe this is what you’re seeing in the clip at 4:06. The timing may be too delayed causing combustion to occur too late in the cycle. This is just from my experience with larger displacement 4-stroke gasoline engines so somebody correct me if this doesn’t apply with 2 strokes or other fuels.
The main problems I see are that 2 strokes are made with the holes for exhaust and air specifically and Lego isn't exact enough to get able to get those correct. Also there is no seal so the negative/positive pressure system can't work. Since that doesn't work there is no compression during combustion so it doesn't make enough force to make power.
so its a drill powered air pump and melts
It's drill powered also it needs even more power to draw in its own fuel and needs a separate battery source for it's ignition and it melts in 10 seconds
@@madbrick923 But it works, and that's awesome.
Mad Brick it’s a 2 stroke you need exhaust for backpressure
@@theun-knownmusician5468 you don't need Backpressure on a 2 Stroke, take the exhaust off on any 2 Stroke ever made and it will run.
Mad Brick Ey the nitro guel inot to good to flam nitro yous a glue plug
I love this stuff because its a window into the past. Imagine you had this crazy theory that you could make a steam engine run off explosions! This is what i imagine it was like, constantly tweaking and modifying to simplify and increase efficiency.
Woah dude. Deep
Yeah dude DEEP....
Easy man run a steam train off of explosions. Watch what you are thinking. They might lock you up in a hospital for having such a crazy idea. What next using Hydraulics to steer a car.
I recommend watching videos of hit-miss engines. They look and sound steampunk AF. They are fascinating.
Steam engines are more efficient and can be made smaller than petrol engines and can run off of a multitude of materials. I don't know why we shifted to gas engines...
Use a little bit of aluminium foil on the cilinder head to slow down the melting
comic sans skeleton ah yes slow down the inevitable
@@madbrick923 I mean you eat dont you?
@@135christian1 😂😂😂 good one
@@madbrick923 and a fan too, active cooling
@@madbrick923 Technically no combustion engine will run forever.
remember, this is a 2 stroke. The exhaust needs some backpressure, not an open hole, it won't run well at all :)
David The Awesome One! Yeah I need another vaccum system at the exhaust but it would mean the engine will be comprised of more and more nonlego parts
@@madbrick923 naw man! go tear apart an old week whacker, and cut open its exhaust! it's just a bunch of chambers that makes the air move thru and causes a resistance, enough for the engorged to have a bit more pressure! Not all that hard to make out of Lego. Also, please if you can, aim the exhaust away from the points! (spark gap, ignition point spring thing) any unburnt fuel will be ignited by that lol
David The Awesome One! Plus it’s a square piston 😆 it will never seal well enough
That's not true in all cases.
One other thing you can do is add a sort of "transmission" on the end of it to run the fuel pump at the correct speed in relation to the speed of the piston (could be done fully with Lego to reduce the non Lego parts)
Seems like you need a better seal on the piston
Might be able to make a ring if you used circular Legos but finding ones that would be large enough would be a problem
Yes he needs compression
Yeah it's a rectangle piston it wont seal well tbh
This is the reason why it doesn't work. Without the piston seal, it is physically impossible for the engine to generate power from the burning and expanding gas. I would guess creating good enough seal from lego parts is pretty much impossible. I can imagine some type of epoxy coating for the cylinder maybe, and then sanding/polishing it to match the "piston".
I came to the comments to type the same thing lol
That's really cool! Never expected such a build could be made, great job!
BigAllan me neither, this whole idea originated from a couple of stupid ideas in high school.
Hi Allan
Well It couldn’t by them, engine was never able to idle on its own
There are many "easy to fix" problems here.
First your engine doesn't make enough compression, piston should be 2mm from the cylinderhead at tdc.
Second thing is that your air intake opening point should be lowered to at least the middle of the stroke (instead of all the way at the top). Now al your pressure your making with the piston is getting wasted, because the air intake port is so high and doesn't close when the piston is in it's compression stroke.
Third thing is to make sure your exhaust pressure goes away as soon as possible. Exhaust should be at the middle of the stroke (or even higher). Don't go to high with the exhaust port else you won't be able to make compression. Don't worry about not having back pressure, that's a story for another day and not important for now.
Fourth and last thing is that your ignition is way to late. It should be way and way earlier. Since the engine is made out of legos making compression is hard. So don't try to compress the air and fuel like your doing now but make the ignition timing earlier. Now you'll be already compressing an explosion of gasses into the combustion chamber. Therefore there will be high pressure and de piston will have a good powe stroke. Don't go to crazy though, it's still legos.
I hope this can help you, I'm not a mechanic but a 2 stroke enthusiast and I've worked quite a lot on them.
Let's say I'm making a 4 stroke engine with an intake and an exhaust valve and everything.
Would these tips apply the same way?
@@kshusband The tip about the ignition timing certainly would. The other tips are irrelevant since in a 4 stroke inlet en outlet isn't controlled by holes in a cylinder. You might even try using a glowplug instead of a timed spark. Way easier, this is often used on smaller engines. Like rc-cars.
I mean, we're 1/3 of the way into the video and he remembers exhausts are a thing xD
Me: makes a simple house out of legos with no instructions
This guy: coward.
At least you can make a house
Intake port is too high not enough closed room for compression, the intake port needs to be lower then the exhaust port. You can find on google or youtube how a 2 stroke cylinder looks like but yours needs to be without transfer ports becouse you dont have a closed block.
He would kinda need compression for it to work
He doesn’t have any compression. The “cylinder” isn’t compressing anything all its job is is for show. All he is doing is putting in fuel, sparking it, and calling it a motor. at some stage he can make it more like a true motor but rn he literally made a air pump that sparks. 😂
My Thought exactly mate, i mean there is barley any compression.
That's just amazing. I make a lot of Lego engines similar to that, but I've never seen one that ACTUALLY fires. You should try making a 4-stroke engine, that'd be cool.
Me to
YES IT'S FINALLY HERE
Centorea 88 English cringe
Kennys Boat Eh? What are you on about?
@@chair5728 it was different last night. "ITS FINALLY HERR" was what it said. (edited)
Give version 4 some intakeports a little above the exhaustports on the oposite side. And force the air-fuelmmix into the cylinder.
You don't have much compression now.
Wait a second so you made an engine and forgot to even make an exhaust?!
It has exhaust ports on the bottom
@@northwestwendover he forgot but then he made it
@Loli4lyf what 2 stroke doesnt make exhaust? i think ik what youre trying to say but the execution was awful
Made a combustion engine with plastic lego... Lol, it's funny
@Davi Ribeiro why not, lol
"After an unsuccessful run, I realized that I forgot to make the exhaust ports."
Yep, that'll do it
Aint no wayyyyyy, THAT THING SPITS FLAMES?!?!?
Ah well its finally time :D
This man is the next Elon Bricks
LEGO mindstorms used for autonomous driving XD
Ok, Great Idea.
But If I may make some kind suggestions.
1 try building a hit and miss motor. They run at slower revolutions.
2 I believe your bug zapper power supply did not provide the necessary voltage that particular spark plug utilizes. All modern spark plugs utilize 12 volts. You may want to consider trying a glow plug or boosting your voltage to 12 volts and the necessary amperage.
Or look into a coil spark plug system found in the early engines. A modern designed system can be found in lawn mowers and two stroke weed wackers.
3 try utilizing Pure alcohol for fuel. Now I doubt you can get ahold of alcohol used in rocketry which is the ideal candidate since it burns longer and cooler.
But you could potentially use high-proof liquor alcohol which is known as ethyl alcohol such as vodka and moonshine and can be found everywhere.
I hope that you read my suggestions. I would love to see this project come to a successful conclusion it's a wonderful idea. 😎
6:53 kinda sounds like my parents when they mysteriously are clapping at night
Waitet a Long time for this! And I like it!🙂👍
JMHDK yeah 2 years is a long time
Brillant! But forgetting the exhaust port is quite essential 😃😃😃
When bro was showing how the exhaust works the engine just backfired
It wasn't even running of fuel then...
a pull start would be so cool
Love you guys for actually making a fuel burning engine! But you melted Lego...😞😂 Will there be a version 4???
They can probably fix it
Might have to upgrade to aluminum pistons but there’s always room for improvement
@@trashpanda3902 ... They can probably melt it Down completely and recast?
Here's a tip... Cylindrical pistons are more efficient 😉
@@benneal3897 indeed, this is like a formula 1 car motor
A mechanism to alter timing will help!
A reluctor wheel from distributor, coil and module, like everything in a Honda director can be simply wired for trigger timing. Just cut other high points and have that one trigger point. Or flat metal disk with high point, like a .010 air gap.
Variable reluctor sensor will close the circuit by grounding out coil through module. The vr sensor can just be grounded, and other rising wire will go to triggering side of module, which will get converted to ground trigger through module to ignite coil.
Good job and keep doing this
You're a man of focus, comitment and sheare fricking will
4:17 When you forget to turn the fuel pump on
Your intake ports need to be set lower than your exhaust ports for scavenging
You need to valve the intake.
If your switching to nitromethane for fuel, you might as well convert to a glow plug and glow igniter. That might work better than a spark plug. PS, you better put the 6 speed transmission on that thing.
Never in my life would I ever think I'd see a Lego in line one that is straight piped
"What engine ya got in that?"
-"lego single cylinder!"
L1
Very nice job, Keep it up and improve ;)
Brent thanks always room to improve
@@madbrick923 thanks to you, make a 2t engine in lego you are the only one to do this stuff ;)
Mad Brick cannot wait till you create a efficient engine and join the official LEGO builder team to make products of these and sell them to all the children.
I just built a 4 stroke lenoir cycle combustion engine from an old 110ccm air compressor. Ive learnt a few things in wanna share:
1) compression is everything. Try to seal the piston by sticking pieces of tape to its sides. You could also make a piston from jb weld (check out makerj101s video on that)
2) use a flap/reed valve. You can easily make one from thin spring steel (feeler gauges are made from spring steel shhets in different thicknesses so you can choose from different strengths and they’re like 10 bucks)
3) the carburetor needs to be precisely tunable. You should shorten your intake hose and add a second ball valve to control the mix rate (air to fuel vapor)
Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees it’s finally here
He don't working because he have a very small compression,but don't worry, this project is very cool!
If you cover the cylinder with any liquid than it will act as an heat sink making it survive longer
never heard of a 42th gear before
I was waiting for this for ages, and it's finally out! I can't wait for the new and improved version! Also, try building a larger box around the cylinder, where water can flow through, it might cool off the legos enaugh not to melt, and make the crank-case closed, so you can put oil as lubricant in there. The oil might cool it from the inside as well. Thanks for continuing the project!👍
A real engine of any kind has an intake and exhaust manifold, the exhaust manifold creates a vacuum which when the exhaust valves open, pull the piston up when it is at the bottom of the combustion chamber. The intake manifold is specifically made to flow as much air that is needed by the engine once the intake valves open but that’s not as important for your 2-stroke engine. What you need is a vacuum to pull the cylinder up on the exhaust stroke. Good luck, I hope that helps!
Running the NGK plug in that bad boi eh? Nicely done ;)
Gotta have the best performance!
Man that sounds like bodies clapping together doing the sideways tango.
This is amazing, now make a 6.2L V8 out of lego, with gas, oil, spark plugs, valves, exhaust, etc.
you need a second piston, so that instead of relying on the drill, both pistons rely on eachothers combustion.
Amazing! Now you can fit it on a LEGO Honda or a Lawnmower
I gotta say I LOVE your spark plug triggering mechanism. It's simple and elegant, simply triggered by the piston reaching maximum compression, it's wonderful. It's quite unfortunate that it never was able to power it self. I have a feeling that it might not be causing enough boom. Regular petrol would work better then the normal 2stroke mix with your design since you are not lubing any parts. Also lengthening the crank shaft and adding a second piston on an opposite timing would help immensely. It would cut the amount of energy you need per each explosion in half.
This guy actually bought a real good japanese NGK to put in a tiny lego engine. 👏👏👏
When your bored in quarantine
You’re*
XGamer 🌝
7:45 I think whats happening is i think the fuel and air is not being mixed well but your getting the right amounts for it, so maybe you can try to find a way to mix the fuel and air very well and that might make it fire up, THIS IS SO EXCITING!!
Me: how doesn’t this catch on fire?
(7:58) ooohhhhhh
Thats really cool. Of course i didn't had the experience you had with the engine, you know better than me but but i think all the engine needs to run on its own is a carburetor for 2 stroke engines and more compression. The engine would still burn due to the legos but at least it would run on its own for some seconds
Edit:i just realised that a carburetor can't be used in this engine because as you said in the video, it dosen't use crankshaft power to deliver fuel air mix in the cylinder.
I think the piston needs some form of seal within the cylinder to maintain compression, like oiling rings and such on a normal piston. I think youre only achieving single cylinder pops when the pressure plus afr is correct on that specific compression stroke. There is something to be said about a circular piston as well. A rectangular piston will not experience pressure forces evenly across it and thus im guessing would transfer to the rod weird, as well as weird bore and stroke issues leading to odd flywheel momentum. For the engine to sustain itself that first pop has to be strong enough to throw the flywheel hard, getting the whole system to rotate quickly enough to build high pressure for the next combustion stroke. I suggest going bigger with the whole design. Scale the entire thing up to make everything more structurally sound and rigid, and get enough air and fuel in that cylinder to go bang even with garbage compression. Also, 2 stoke engines are witchcraft and run on hopes and dreams.
Nothing like the smell of melting plastic and gasoline
I love seeing all these lego channels popping up. Maybe lego is getting a new interest
Holy shit bro i know this was a while ago but this is so sick!, the flames coming out of those three holes is nice 👌
everybody gangsta till the lego engine shoots flames
tips: put a smaller flywheel, put an air injector so it works, add oil (if you dont have use vegetable oil), when the piston goes up shorten the gap between the piston head and the upper thingy where the spark plug goes in.
following those tips it might work idk i dont have the pieces needed to do that
The literal definition of turning your pistons to liquid XD
It's awesome! Don't give up keep trying!!
I clicked on this video and got an ad for bricks. That was the first time I got an add for bricks
I might know a couple of ways how to make it run by itself you could try and make a square piston ring to help compression and adding 1 or more cylinders would help
You basically made an engine out of Legos!? I love it!😍
Amazing, now a full car
Hey, Remember in a 2 stroke the exhaust Port needs to be a little bit higher than the intake Port, and they need to be on the opposite side of eachother in order to make an air flow through the cilinder
Good effort lad this was ace
even though it didn't actually work it was pretty cool
Now everything isn’t impossible for lego. Not even engines will stop them
Absolute madlad
Cool idea dude, but what you are missing is compression. You will never get that thing running like that because of the immense amount of blow by. For a decent combustion cycle, you have to have a near perfect or at least decent seal from the piston to the cylinder walls. Without that, you wont get the proper combustion and any combustion that does happen will seep past the piston and out of the engine. hope this helps
Metal Lego bricks would be perfect here
Madlad actually did it
yeah, i wont consider this a running engine unless it runs under its own power and not a self destructing drill powered piece of plastic. You were holding it back the whole time with that drill instead of actually trying to start it by hand.
LOVE the work you're doing on this channel. Can't wait to see more
Amazing, 2 of my favorite things in one, love the channel
That thing starts better then my scooter
OH MY GOD
Install this on your car for crazy hp 😎
Remember this is a 2 stroke. If you use air pump to pump in the air-petrol mixture you maybe have the right pressure, but the biggest issue with your design, you put too high the intake hole and becouse it you haven't got any comression. Put the intake port down to the bottom dead center almost same level (upper edge a bit lower than the exhaust) as the exhaust port. If the piston seal enough and you have a good compression ratio at least 8:1 it should work :-) . I hope i helped.
now, this is epic
To have this engine run, you a compression! Engines don’t work if they don’t have a compression.
New to the channel this popped up on my home page at the top!
same
This is the kind of stuff I wish I could have done with my legos as a kid, but I was unaware at the time.
The weird but amazing things TH-cam recommends me is an art form
A smoother head may help improve the combustion as it would make less surface area for the gas to make contact with, therefore increasing its force being sent downward
Yeah, I was wondering why the head didn’t have a flat cover, and flat pieces aren’t too hard to get a hold of.
There is a reason why real engines are made of metal
Yes he’s back
I believe the biggest issue with this design is that the intake port is at the top of the cylinder, so all the compression goes back to the intake tube, or is provided by the air pump...
You need to place the intake so that when the piston is down, fuel goes in, but as the piston rises, the piston wall should cover the intake, so that the fuel can be compressed, as the piston rises. Ideally you should feel a bit of resistance when you crank the engine my hand, then you know the air is compressed at the top.
Also this is a 2 stroke engine, these work at very high RPMs, you have low RPM, and one cause may be the very heavy flywheel, it's hard to spin up that wheel quick enough, and it acts as a brake.
yeeah, it is still not perfect, but it is definetly the best one on youtube. you got the best results out of all people that tried it! awesome, dont give up!
The next video: building a fully lego combustion engine car!
Make a rudimentary carb so you can adjust your air fuel mix and get vaporised fuel rather than just liquid. That might give it a bit more of a kick.
Also, a one way valve on the fuel inlet would help with building a little bit of compression, otherwise when it comes back up you’re probably pushing fuel back down the line, assuming it holds any compression at all.
Cool idea though though, would love to see it run on its own!
The rings of smoke it was blowing at 11:15 😂
Imagine this being the future engine
This is so beautiful
This is what I have subscribed for!
God, this guy is _so_ f**king smart!
I have a feeling your timing is a bit early. When the nitromethane had a proper thump at it you could see the combustion chamber lift up. and the whole thing "knocked". Everything else seems good enough. Also this being a two stroke it needs some back pressure but I am not expecting any meaningfull power out of this anyways.
Get two of those big light gray gear and put one on the crank shaft and the other next to it to which you will have the spring ignition system hooked up. Now you can advance the timing in the division of each tooth. When too early just slide the gears out of mesh and rotate one of the gears in the direction you want and mesh them again. You get a much more accurate timing that way. And that should be it. It should at least semi work if you make the timing a little bit later. With the gear directly attached you can advance the timing in 90 degrees only but if you use two gears you have 360 divided by the number of teeth. Good luck I want to see this thing work even if just for 10 seconds. With the spring youre a little tooo early on ignition
Imagine this guy making inline 4 or even V6/V8 lego engine with some aluminium in manfold and then creating a lego openwheels cart to race lol
You should turn it into a v eight
Maybe form a gasket around the piston like a piston ring, so blowby is reduced and compression can be kept in. This engine would run with just a bit of compression built in.
8:56 i see ya peepin
It may be worth trying to advance the timing. Normally the spark plug would actually fire just before TDC (top dead center). Combustion is a somewhat slow process and by firing before TDC peak cylinder pressure actually occurs slightly after TDC. It’s hard to say but maybe this is what you’re seeing in the clip at 4:06. The timing may be too delayed causing combustion to occur too late in the cycle. This is just from my experience with larger displacement 4-stroke gasoline engines so somebody correct me if this doesn’t apply with 2 strokes or other fuels.
The main problems I see are that 2 strokes are made with the holes for exhaust and air specifically and Lego isn't exact enough to get able to get those correct. Also there is no seal so the negative/positive pressure system can't work. Since that doesn't work there is no compression during combustion so it doesn't make enough force to make power.