Thanks for the video. I'm new to this as a hobby and started with Elgin 12s pocket watches, mostly grade 315. I was frustrated because I couldn't get any to run (I bought several scrap movements trying to find ones with intact balance staffs. It took a bit to figure out I wasn't winding the mainsprings correctly. Trying to hand wind a mainspring and the get the t-end onto the slot and the hole on the end of the spring into the hook on the barrel (on some not all barrels) is impossible. I bought replacement mainsprings from cas-ker but even then it is hard (I have yet to succeed to get it lined up before pushing it out of the retention ring into the barrel. After that I am stuck with removing it and with no winder...
I did buy some winders from aliexpress but they are movement specific and too small for pocket watch size barrels. Any suggestions on winders. Bergeon 5356 would cover all possibilities but $1200 is a bit much unless you are servicing a lot of watches.
The set I use for pocket watches is CE Marshall 40346. Probably was made in 1940's. This should cover most sized PWs. Price have been crazy but sets like this have been selling for about 100 last I looked. K&D has a set that looks the same but parts are not interchangeable with other brands. Would look for complete set.
Great video, it answered my questions as I'm about to try installing my first "T" end mainspring. I'm wondering, after winding the mainspring into the drum and having left that little bit out of the winder, if it wouldn't be a little easier to hold the winder in one hand and the barrel in the other, and then position the T-end of the mainspring into the barrel and then move the barrel closer to the winder so that it sandwiches the mainspring end against the inside of the barrel while you then fully insert the winder into the barrel? Basically, instead of having to grab the mainspring end with tweezers and maneuver it into the barrel, if you couldn't instead maneuver it in by using the barrel to gather it up, press it against the winder, and then finish inserting the winder all the way into the barrel? If that makes sense :)
That is a good way yes. Either holding the barrel or having in flat on the bench, and inserting the spring in, t end first, at a slight angle. I've used that several times and do prefer it over tweezers now. -RedVitis
Thanks for the video, it's very instructive on using this winder. I have this same winder and I'm curious as to whether the steel ferrule is solidly attached to the button end of the tool. On mine, which Is suspect me be in less than perfect condition, the metal ferrule is not attached well so that when you press the ejector button, the whole tool moves rather than the ejector button of the tool. I know see in your first image that what I'm calling the ferrule has two dimples, one to lock the tool barrel, and one to better attach the ferrule to the button knob. Mine only has a dimple at the barrel end. I think that's where my problem lies. Must have been a blemish product. I did pick up some handy techniques from your video as well, esp. on how you hold the watch barrel during MS removal. Thanks again. Cheers.
The ferrule ( metal tube) must be tight to the handle. My Winder had the same problem as yours, if I took your meaning correctly. I used 5 min epoxy to repair, lightly sanding the contact surfaces first. The bond was strong enough after a few hours, probably better to cure longer.
I, personally, don’t trust new mainsprings for grease. Who knows how long they have been sitting? I like to clean them with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Then I put Moebius mainspring grease between my thumb and forefinger and regrease the spring. I believe that oil is too light for a pocket watch mainspring.
@@redvitiswatches Yes, Moebius 8200. Your method is good and you give great instructions. Keep up the great videos. I am not criticizing you, just personal preference and the way I was taught by a master watchmaker. I like your method of taking out the mainspring and using a spare barrel.
@@larrydemaar409 No worries, Larry. It's overwhelming all the products, so I like to be sure. I haven't used it before, will pick some up. Thanks again.
Sure no worries. The bridle on this ms has a tab that must align with a hole in the barrel. It never (in my experience) aligns by popping in from ring. For american watches, fitting the bridle to the hole first, once you practice, makes it easy.
It seems a tortuous means by which to let out a mainspring. Why not bend down, with pliers if necessary, the alloy retaining ring and allowing the spring to expand into your controlling fingers. If the m/s, in its ring, is a reasonable fit in the barrel why not put it straight into its new home? This also avoids the possibility, slight though it maybe, of coneing the new m/s. And, if fitting pivot end mainsprings. Yes, they are a cow. Good luck!
I value my fingers too much to try it your way. In the video, the spring was pressed into a barrel, which is better, but the T-end isn't likely to align with the slot in the barrel.
This video helped me a lot! Thank you!
Glad to hear that @user-jb8fx8sb4e!! Welcome to the channel. -RedVitis ⌚️ ⏱️
Thank You for the tutorial ! Well done
Good instruction. The hole end mainsprings really fire me up sometimes getting them in right haha.
I've had my moments 😉 We all have with them.
Thanks for the video.Good instruction
You are very welcome. -RedVitis
Thanks for the video. I'm new to this as a hobby and started with Elgin 12s pocket watches, mostly grade 315. I was frustrated because I couldn't get any to run (I bought several scrap movements trying to find ones with intact balance staffs. It took a bit to figure out I wasn't winding the mainsprings correctly. Trying to hand wind a mainspring and the get the t-end onto the slot and the hole on the end of the spring into the hook on the barrel (on some not all barrels) is impossible. I bought replacement mainsprings from cas-ker but even then it is hard (I have yet to succeed to get it lined up before pushing it out of the retention ring into the barrel. After that I am stuck with removing it and with no winder...
I did buy some winders from aliexpress but they are movement specific and too small for pocket watch size barrels. Any suggestions on winders. Bergeon 5356 would cover all possibilities but $1200 is a bit much unless you are servicing a lot of watches.
The set I use for pocket watches is CE Marshall 40346. Probably was made in 1940's. This should cover most sized PWs. Price have been crazy but sets like this have been selling for about 100 last I looked. K&D has a set that looks the same but parts are not interchangeable with other brands. Would look for complete set.
Great video, it answered my questions as I'm about to try installing my first "T" end mainspring. I'm wondering, after winding the mainspring into the drum and having left that little bit out of the winder, if it wouldn't be a little easier to hold the winder in one hand and the barrel in the other, and then position the T-end of the mainspring into the barrel and then move the barrel closer to the winder so that it sandwiches the mainspring end against the inside of the barrel while you then fully insert the winder into the barrel? Basically, instead of having to grab the mainspring end with tweezers and maneuver it into the barrel, if you couldn't instead maneuver it in by using the barrel to gather it up, press it against the winder, and then finish inserting the winder all the way into the barrel? If that makes sense :)
That is a good way yes. Either holding the barrel or having in flat on the bench, and inserting the spring in, t end first, at a slight angle. I've used that several times and do prefer it over tweezers now. -RedVitis
Thanks for the video, it's very instructive on using this winder. I have this same winder and I'm curious as to whether the steel ferrule is solidly attached to the button end of the tool. On mine, which Is suspect me be in less than perfect condition, the metal ferrule is not attached well so that when you press the ejector button, the whole tool moves rather than the ejector button of the tool. I know see in your first image that what I'm calling the ferrule has two dimples, one to lock the tool barrel, and one to better attach the ferrule to the button knob. Mine only has a dimple at the barrel end. I think that's where my problem lies. Must have been a blemish product. I did pick up some handy techniques from your video as well, esp. on how you hold the watch barrel during MS removal. Thanks again. Cheers.
The ferrule ( metal tube) must be tight to the handle. My Winder had the same problem as yours, if I took your meaning correctly. I used 5 min epoxy to repair, lightly sanding the contact surfaces first. The bond was strong enough after a few hours, probably better to cure longer.
I, personally, don’t trust new mainsprings for grease. Who knows how long they have been sitting? I like to clean them with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Then I put Moebius mainspring grease between my thumb and forefinger and regrease the spring. I believe that oil is too light for a pocket watch mainspring.
Thanks for the tips! 👍 I think 8200 is the one you referred to?
@@redvitiswatches Yes, Moebius 8200. Your method is good and you give great instructions. Keep up the great videos. I am not criticizing you, just personal preference and the way I was taught by a master watchmaker. I like your method of taking out the mainspring and using a spare barrel.
@@larrydemaar409 No worries, Larry. It's overwhelming all the products, so I like to be sure. I haven't used it before, will pick some up. Thanks again.
Why not just bend down the alloy m/s retaining ring?
Other ways may be easier than the one I used. Can you explain to me a little better how this would help?
why didn't you just pop the new mainspring into the barrel, instead of unwinding and rewinding it? it seems counterintuitive to me.
Sure no worries. The bridle on this ms has a tab that must align with a hole in the barrel. It never (in my experience) aligns by popping in from ring. For american watches, fitting the bridle to the hole first, once you practice, makes it easy.
@@redvitiswatches thanks for the explanation. I'm an old gear-head and am dipping my toes into watchmaking. Fascinating mechanisms for sure!
It seems a tortuous means by which to let out a mainspring. Why not bend down, with pliers if necessary, the alloy retaining ring and allowing the spring to expand into your controlling fingers. If the m/s, in its ring, is a reasonable fit in the barrel why not put it straight into its new home? This also avoids the possibility, slight though it maybe, of coneing the new m/s. And, if fitting pivot end mainsprings. Yes, they are a cow. Good luck!
I value my fingers too much to try it your way. In the video, the spring was pressed into a barrel, which is better, but the T-end isn't likely to align with the slot in the barrel.