I'm a new subscriber, and new to BP. I recently retired and discovered that my small retirement pension is struggling to keep up with the demands of the hobbie...so, making my own caps was a logical decision. Your research has proved invaluable to me as well as the videos from the "everything black powder channel". Up here in N.E. TN. I'm finding it hard to obtain the miriad of do-dads needed keep this hobbie from being a bummer, so I searched the web and navigated through the scam sites, eBay price gougers, and sold out items from reputable web sights...to gather a small circle of small businesses that have what I need(except rem. #10 caps). I have a feeling that you retired out of a similar industry that I did, so I trust your research and the time you take to share your adventure with all of us history lovers who just want to enjoy our passion for the frontier lifestyle. Thanks brother
Great video, your an experimenter like myself. One suggestion re the surface tension/bubble problem with the dry load method. The eye dropper you are using will deliver quite large droplets of liquid, try some clear plastic pipettes, a whole range is available very cheaply on e-bay and they produce much smaller/controllable droplets which are easier to get down inside the cap in my experience.
this is great, i love tinkering with this stuff when i have time. really appreciate your videos. i 3d printed some caps that fit really good on my remington, and made them just a little longer to fit some priming compound in a little better. i havnt loaded any yet, also i was thinking about waterproofing paper cartridge paper and found battery terminial sealer, the clear kind in a spray can, waterproofs paper towels really well, i was just doing a quick experiment at work, havnt tried it yet on actual paper cartridges, my process is reallllly slow going, a min here and there is all i get.
Excellent results! I think you have developed a good technique for the production of reliable percussion caps. I thougt the Duco cement would be a better fixative than lacquer or cyanoacrylate glue. I dont know what would make a good waterproofing additive that also wouldn't impair the burning of the caps. My only thought along these lines would be some kind of silicone based preservative, like Thompson's Waterseal mixed with the slurry. I think any oil based silicone waterproofing would mix with the acetone, but I don't know if that would affect the ignition, or would take forever to dry out.
Terry, I enjoyed your percussion cap series. Thanks. I did want to share what I've done for a year or so now. Caps are nearly impossible to fine up here in New England (Maine). I use the Prime-All stuff and have the cap maker for #11 caps. I put the dry powder mix in my caps, and "fix" them with a acetate glue I made with a mix of acetone and plexiglass. Made this "glue" when I saw it on TH-cam. More on that in a minute. I've used Shellac, hairspray, straight acetone, with poor results. Then I stumbled on this Plexiglass glue. Great luck with that stuff. The Glue: About 6 oz. of acetone. 1 piece of plexiglass about 1" square and 1/4' thick. (Note: Be sure you use PlexiGlass and NOT Polycarbonate) I broke the plexiglass up into small chips and put them in the acetone to dissolve. Takes about 12 hrs. or more to totally dissolve. Agitate the solution with a vigorous shake now and then. If it doesn't totally dissolve and leaves a clear clump of goo in the acetone, it's too thick. Simply add more acetone until it puts all the plexiglass into solution. You've got the right mix when you spill a few drops on your workbench and it dries to a very slightly hard film. I get about 20 to 24 caps from one batch of Prime-All. One drop of "glue" from an eye dropper into each cap of powder. I apply the glue to only 10 caps at a time due to the quick drying time. At this point, I add paper "star". The "star": From McDonalds, I use the paper they wrap their breakfast burritos in. Same paper as used on their Bacon, egg, biscuits. (you get the picture). I have a paper punch from a craft shop that punches out a 5 point star about 1/4" across. The McDonalds paper is very thin and is totally consumed in the cap detonation without plugging the nipple. I push 1 paper star into the freshly glued Prime-All cap, with a wooden match stick. A little push and twist pushes out any trapped air. After the first paper star is pushed into the cap, the remaining paper stars are easily picked up with the residual glue on the end of the match stick and carried over the the next cap. I make 20+ caps in about 15 minutes, start to finish. Plastic primer tray from a pack of Small Pistol Primers is a must. I don't own any of these ideas. Picked it all up from other guys working through these problems and shortages that affect us all. If it helps you or any other guys, then that's what it's all about. I have pictures of my process, but I don't readily see a way to attach photos to comments. I can barely attach pictures to emails to our granddaughters! All the best, and thanks again for all you do for us. Where all in this together!
I'll have to try that because one of my uocoming videos is about 'plexiglass'. However "plexiglass" is a brand name of a sheet acrylic plastic and acrylic is rated as insoluble in acetone where polycarbonate is soluble. AND to cloud it up even more there are different types and brands of each. So, are you using actual "Plexiglass" brand?
Hmmm, the stuff used was not marked as plexiglass. It acted like acrylic. It broke into sharp chards when clamped in my bench vise, wrapped in a rag, and hit with a hammer. The OTHER material I have in the shop is marked Lexan, from Home Depot. Much different characteristics than the material I assumed to be plexiglass. Here is the link to the TH-cam video describing how to make the “glue”. .Youtu.be/iUqscl4EGxQ?si=qlxNG8DWiJYOglvq
Suggestion: to fight surface tension, try using a surface tension reducer... such as one small drop of Dawn dish washing detergent. FYI, dish washing detergents generally use excellent surface tension reducers to increase the effectiveness of the detergent. It makes sure the water carrying the detergent gets in all the tiny nooks and crannies, thus getting things "cleaner than clean."
Might make for an interesting test. I see three elements here. Will Dawn dissolve in acetone containing 20 - 25% nitrocellulose/nitroglycerin, does it work to reduce surface tension when dissolved in acetone with said lacquer, will it interfere with said lacquer curing, and does it interfere with the chemical reactions in the primer. OK, that's four. I'll put it on my list!
Hi Terry. I try to find the method that is the least fuss - I make a thick slurry then pick up an empty cap with tweezers and then I use the empty cap as a scoop and scoop it full. When it dries the cap is about 2/3 full, perfect for a strong bang. What works best with this method is thick slurry; what works best for your method is a thin slurry' The eyedropper method requires the caps be topped off once or twice while the scoop method with thick slurry only requires a single scoop and it is completely full. While you use the eyedropper 2 or 3 times per cap compared with a single scoop with my method, it may be that the eyedropper method is still the easier method as the eyedropper is quick and easy to handle. Certainly your reliability is excellent! I would like to see the methods compared. Many people are not aware that there are many types of nitrocellulose as the cellulose is a long chain with many sites amenable to nitration. NC may be lightly nitrated or heavily nitrated and it may vary quite a lot in solubility - eg the second skin liquid band aid is lightly nitrated soluble NC. Collodion, wart remover etc are lightly nitrated and soluble - NC used as a plastic for ping pong balls or old movie film is moderately nitrated, smokeless powder is a mix of soluble and insoluble NC that is heavily nitrated. I have heard somewhere that smokeless powder may be ground in a mortar and pestle and then it will dissolve to a degree in acetone - I suspect that there is a way to use smokeless powder dissolved in acetone as a hardener, but I have no idea how much to use, etc - that is part of the fun though. I have no idea re single base vs double base would work better as a hardening agent. Some double base has quite a lot of NG in it, blue dot has either 40% or 60% NG by weight depending on where you read it, either way it is a lot and likely would add energy to the cap (NC or smokeless powder is added to some of the percussion compound recipes I have seen). Aluminum powder is often added (as is nitrocellulose) for magnum caps. Do you know if chlorate vs perchlorate makes a difference with H-48 type percussion caps? Perchlorate has more oxygen per mole but chlorate appears more reactive/unstable. Anyway, there is still much to explore re this subject and much fun to be had - enjoy!. PS isn't some hairspray NC based (hence the extreme flammability of some hair dos?
Nice. Thanks for the info Terry, very interesting. Keep on looking for that prefect mix (and making these great videos). I think you are on to something there. Could really help us BP shooters out a lot!
I actually just eyeballed it, about 20-25% Duco to 80 - 75% acetone. But now I'm making my own nitrocellulose lacquer by dissolving 4 heaping tablespoons of a double based smokeless powder in about a half pint of acetone for a few days. I then dilute that to about 1/4 lacquer to 3/4 more acetone. Again, I'm not using a strict "formula". Just dissolve enough smokeless powder so it forms a thick, black, syrupy goop. Then dilute that down more when using in a 1:3 ratio.
I appreciate the video and knowledge. Making your own caps seems to be quite a tedious process to say the least. I ran accross a technique using small pistol primers and vinyl tubing. Seemed to work and the fabrication process was much simpler. The only catch, you might have to shorten the nipples to make it work. RWS primers are currently available (Graf and Sons) but they are pricey at about $0.16/cap with shipping and HAZMAT. CCI primers are still out of stock, but their latest price works out to $0.12/cap. So even if CCI primers become available, they won't necessarily be cheap either. If you are lucky to find them at local retailers, you might get them at a more reasonabe price. But haven't seen caps available at any retailer in my area for going on four years now. Right now I am leaning toward just sucking it up and ordering a brick of 2500 RWS primers. Buy once cry once, but at least I will have enough primers to last me quite awhile and eliminate alot of frustration.
That narrower stem is the problem. It's why the 6 gauge needle didn't work. The eye dropper is already almost too small. But a good idea nevertheless! Thanks! :-)
I haven't been able to find new production RWS caps, but the old ones are more moisture resistant than CCI or Remington caps. I went hunting with some friends in a slight drizzle/mist, and I was using the RWS caps, while my friends all preferred the CCI and Remington caps. Mostly because the RWS caps cost almost $3.00 a tin more. But all three of my friends missed shots because of either hangfires or failure to fires. I got my deer about 40 minutes into our start. All of my friends when we met back p were complaining about their caps either not going off or not igniting the main charge. Since the lease where hunted at had a rule of no loaded firearms beyond the gate, I saw all three use up their caps to clear their rifles. I finally gave them some of my RWS caps and all three fired on the first cap. The next day, while I sat back at the cabin, they used my RWS caps and went back out. They were back inside of hour with all 3 getting their deer.
Good video, you were talking about retention in the slurry, just wondering they make something that when you are panning and you have flour gold floating on top of the water, you put a drop in your pan and all the gold sinks. It kills the retention. Would that help your slurry.
Hi Terry. You might try (if you have not already) 3 equal parts of Murphy's oil soap, rubbing alcohol and Hydrogen peroxide. Let soak for a few minutes. I have found it cleans the orange residue, or at least it did for me. I will be doing a few videos on homemade percussion caps soon. I have had to change how I do them, the bang caps now use a white substance that is not as powerful as previous ones. Go figure. Keep on Keeping on.
I'm looking for a replacement for the antimony also, and will have future videos on that as well. And I have all three ingredients in the garage so I will give it a try! What strength peroxide? Mine's 30%, and my alcohol's 90%.
I like Red Bull cans. Make great caps. And I'm making my own double base nitrocellulose/nitroglycerin lacquer hardener at a 25% concentration, or 1:3 lacquer to acetone. Adds more bang, dries harder, and waterproofs better than Duco. I anneal the aluminum before stamping and it forms near perfect caps every time. And I'll be introducing my own primer in a few days, antimony free, lead free, mercury free, water proof and formulated specifically for percussion caps. I'm calling it TO-24M.
Go to a Farm supply store and get a syringe and needle for injecting cattle. You will find a much larger bore to the needle and a larger syringe. Also have you done anymore experiments with super glue? The prime all, (H48 compound) without is F42 compound basicly the only difference is ground glass. If you do a search on F42 it will come up.
Maybe try some bees wax, perhaps a little bead of it into the cap, might have to experiment with using hot air to get it to melt over the primer. Might not be possible without ignition…
If you dry fire one hundreds of times a day every day for months or years you may flatten the nose of the nipples out a little... maybe... the myths and old wives tales surrounding black powder would fill several volumes and it's nearly all BS. This myth stems from the modern firearms safety rule of always treat a firearm as if it's loaded, even when it isn't. A good rule in itself but common sense says once verified unloaded any firearm is just an expensive club. A better version of this rule might be "Always verify a firearm is unloaded before treating it as if it is." In other words, never "assume".
i traded for an 1851 with swollen nipples, but it has a really heavy hammer spring, heavier than any of my other revolvers, dont know what year it was made, my others are within the last 8 or so years.
ok, this is going to sound odd. but, if you get hurt, have a fire, or have any significant injuries, if i was you, i would get a lawyer and file a law suit. this whole primer thing has gone on for far to long. if the makers of these are unwilling to ramp up production, and we have no other choice but to make our own, we should sue them. if they start losing millions of $, maybe then they will ramp up production.
![ฮักเทื่อสุดท้าย - บอย ศิริชัย [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-1PoPoQ-B-k/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm a new subscriber, and new to BP. I recently retired and discovered that my small retirement pension is struggling to keep up with the demands of the hobbie...so, making my own caps was a logical decision. Your research has proved invaluable to me as well as the videos from the "everything black powder channel". Up here in N.E. TN. I'm finding it hard to obtain the miriad of do-dads needed keep this hobbie from being a bummer, so I searched the web and navigated through the scam sites, eBay price gougers, and sold out items from reputable web sights...to gather a small circle of small businesses that have what I need(except rem. #10 caps). I have a feeling that you retired out of a similar industry that I did, so I trust your research and the time you take to share your adventure with all of us history lovers who just want to enjoy our passion for the frontier lifestyle.
Thanks brother
Great video, your an experimenter like myself. One suggestion re the surface tension/bubble problem with the dry load method. The eye dropper you are using will deliver quite large droplets of liquid, try some clear plastic pipettes, a whole range is available very cheaply on e-bay and they produce much smaller/controllable droplets which are easier to get down inside the cap in my experience.
I will look into that. Mine are from Hobby Lobby.
This is fantastic. Between you and @everythingblackpowder, a guy can keep his firelocks stoked up in perpetuity.
this is great, i love tinkering with this stuff when i have time. really appreciate your videos. i 3d printed some caps that fit really good on my remington, and made them just a little longer to fit some priming compound in a little better. i havnt loaded any yet, also i was thinking about waterproofing paper cartridge paper and found battery terminial sealer, the clear kind in a spray can, waterproofs paper towels really well, i was just doing a quick experiment at work, havnt tried it yet on actual paper cartridges, my process is reallllly slow going, a min here and there is all i get.
Excellent results! I think you have developed a good technique for the production of reliable percussion caps.
I thougt the Duco cement would be a better fixative than lacquer or cyanoacrylate glue. I dont know what would make a good waterproofing additive that also wouldn't impair the burning of the caps. My only thought along these lines would be some kind of silicone based preservative, like Thompson's Waterseal mixed with the slurry.
I think any oil based silicone waterproofing would mix with the acetone, but I don't know if that would affect the ignition, or would take forever to dry out.
Terry, I enjoyed your percussion cap series. Thanks. I did want to share what I've done for a year or so now. Caps are nearly impossible to fine up here in New England (Maine). I use the Prime-All stuff and have the cap maker for #11 caps.
I put the dry powder mix in my caps, and "fix" them with a acetate glue I made with a mix of acetone and plexiglass. Made this "glue" when I saw it on TH-cam. More on that in a minute. I've used Shellac, hairspray, straight acetone, with poor results. Then I stumbled on this Plexiglass glue. Great luck with that stuff.
The Glue: About 6 oz. of acetone. 1 piece of plexiglass about 1" square and 1/4' thick. (Note: Be sure you use PlexiGlass and NOT Polycarbonate) I broke the plexiglass up into small chips and put them in the acetone to dissolve. Takes about 12 hrs. or more to totally dissolve. Agitate the solution with a vigorous shake now and then. If it doesn't totally dissolve and leaves a clear clump of goo in the acetone, it's too thick. Simply add more acetone until it puts all the plexiglass into solution. You've got the right mix when you spill a few drops on your workbench and it dries to a very slightly hard film.
I get about 20 to 24 caps from one batch of Prime-All. One drop of "glue" from an eye dropper into each cap of powder. I apply the glue to only 10 caps at a time due to the quick drying time. At this point, I add paper "star".
The "star": From McDonalds, I use the paper they wrap their breakfast burritos in. Same paper as used on their Bacon, egg, biscuits. (you get the picture). I have a paper punch from a craft shop that punches out a 5 point star about 1/4" across. The McDonalds paper is very thin and is totally consumed in the cap detonation without plugging the nipple. I push 1 paper star into the freshly glued Prime-All cap, with a wooden match stick. A little push and twist pushes out any trapped air. After the first paper star is pushed into the cap, the remaining paper stars are easily picked up with the residual glue on the end of the match stick and carried over the the next cap. I make 20+ caps in about 15 minutes, start to finish. Plastic primer tray from a pack of Small Pistol Primers is a must.
I don't own any of these ideas. Picked it all up from other guys working through these problems and shortages that affect us all. If it helps you or any other guys, then that's what it's all about. I have pictures of my process, but I don't readily see a way to attach photos to comments. I can barely attach pictures to emails to our granddaughters!
All the best, and thanks again for all you do for us. Where all in this together!
I'll have to try that because one of my uocoming videos is about 'plexiglass'. However "plexiglass" is a brand name of a sheet acrylic plastic and acrylic is rated as insoluble in acetone where polycarbonate is soluble. AND to cloud it up even more there are different types and brands of each. So, are you using actual "Plexiglass" brand?
Hmmm, the stuff used was not marked as plexiglass. It acted like acrylic. It broke into sharp chards when clamped in my bench vise, wrapped in a rag, and hit with a hammer. The OTHER material I have in the shop is marked Lexan, from Home Depot. Much different characteristics than the material I assumed to be plexiglass. Here is the link to the TH-cam video describing how to make the “glue”. .Youtu.be/iUqscl4EGxQ?si=qlxNG8DWiJYOglvq
@@charliewhorton2714 that sounds like acrylic, and it sounds worth trying! 🙂
Suggestion: to fight surface tension, try using a surface tension reducer... such as one small drop of Dawn dish washing detergent. FYI, dish washing detergents generally use excellent surface tension reducers to increase the effectiveness of the detergent. It makes sure the water carrying the detergent gets in all the tiny nooks and crannies, thus getting things "cleaner than clean."
Might make for an interesting test. I see three elements here. Will Dawn dissolve in acetone containing 20 - 25% nitrocellulose/nitroglycerin, does it work to reduce surface tension when dissolved in acetone with said lacquer, will it interfere with said lacquer curing, and does it interfere with the chemical reactions in the primer. OK, that's four. I'll put it on my list!
Hi Terry. I try to find the method that is the least fuss - I make a thick slurry then pick up an empty cap with tweezers and then I use the empty cap as a scoop and scoop it full. When it dries the cap is about 2/3 full, perfect for a strong bang.
What works best with this method is thick slurry; what works best for your method is a thin slurry'
The eyedropper method requires the caps be topped off once or twice while the scoop method with thick slurry only requires a single scoop and it is completely full.
While you use the eyedropper 2 or 3 times per cap compared with a single scoop with my method, it may be that the eyedropper method is still the easier method as the eyedropper is quick and easy to handle. Certainly your reliability is excellent! I would like to see the methods compared.
Many people are not aware that there are many types of nitrocellulose as the cellulose is a long chain with many sites amenable to nitration. NC may be lightly nitrated or heavily nitrated and it may vary quite a lot in solubility - eg the second skin liquid band aid is lightly nitrated soluble NC. Collodion, wart remover etc are lightly nitrated and soluble - NC used as a plastic for ping pong balls or old movie film is moderately nitrated, smokeless powder is a mix of soluble and insoluble NC that is heavily nitrated.
I have heard somewhere that smokeless powder may be ground in a mortar and pestle and then it will dissolve to a degree in acetone - I suspect that there is a way to use smokeless powder dissolved in acetone as a hardener, but I have no idea how much to use, etc - that is part of the fun though.
I have no idea re single base vs double base would work better as a hardening agent. Some double base has quite a lot of NG in it, blue dot has either 40% or 60% NG by weight depending on where you read it, either way it is a lot and likely would add energy to the cap (NC or smokeless powder is added to some of the percussion compound recipes I have seen). Aluminum powder is often added (as is nitrocellulose) for magnum caps.
Do you know if chlorate vs perchlorate makes a difference with H-48 type percussion caps? Perchlorate has more oxygen per mole but chlorate appears more reactive/unstable.
Anyway, there is still much to explore re this subject and much fun to be had - enjoy!.
PS isn't some hairspray NC based (hence the extreme flammability of some hair dos?
Nice. Thanks for the info Terry, very interesting. Keep on looking for that prefect mix (and making these great videos). I think you are on to something there. Could really help us BP shooters out a lot!
Your tenacity is admirable!
unfortunately, its not like that here.
good video Terry. I was wondering what your formular was for the Duco cement and acetone, thanks.
I actually just eyeballed it, about 20-25% Duco to 80 - 75% acetone. But now I'm making my own nitrocellulose lacquer by dissolving 4 heaping tablespoons of a double based smokeless powder in about a half pint of acetone for a few days. I then dilute that to about 1/4 lacquer to 3/4 more acetone. Again, I'm not using a strict "formula". Just dissolve enough smokeless powder so it forms a thick, black, syrupy goop. Then dilute that down more when using in a 1:3 ratio.
I appreciate the video and knowledge. Making your own caps seems to be quite a tedious process to say the least. I ran accross a technique using small pistol primers and vinyl tubing. Seemed to work and the fabrication process was much simpler. The only catch, you might have to shorten the nipples to make it work.
RWS primers are currently available (Graf and Sons) but they are pricey at about $0.16/cap with shipping and HAZMAT. CCI primers are still out of stock, but their latest price works out to $0.12/cap. So even if CCI primers become available, they won't necessarily be cheap either. If you are lucky to find them at local retailers, you might get them at a more reasonabe price. But haven't seen caps available at any retailer in my area for going on four years now.
Right now I am leaning toward just sucking it up and ordering a brick of 2500 RWS primers. Buy once cry once, but at least I will have enough primers to last me quite awhile and eliminate alot of frustration.
A glass pipette, with a rubber bulb, might have a narrower stem than the medicine dropper and might make loading the cap with fluid easier.
That narrower stem is the problem. It's why the 6 gauge needle didn't work. The eye dropper is already almost too small. But a good idea nevertheless! Thanks! :-)
I haven't been able to find new production RWS caps, but the old ones are more moisture resistant than CCI or Remington caps. I went hunting with some friends in a slight drizzle/mist, and I was using the RWS caps, while my friends all preferred the CCI and Remington caps. Mostly because the RWS caps cost almost $3.00 a tin more. But all three of my friends missed shots because of either hangfires or failure to fires. I got my deer about 40 minutes into our start. All of my friends when we met back p were complaining about their caps either not going off or not igniting the main charge. Since the lease where hunted at had a rule of no loaded firearms beyond the gate, I saw all three use up their caps to clear their rifles. I finally gave them some of my RWS caps and all three fired on the first cap.
The next day, while I sat back at the cabin, they used my RWS caps and went back out. They were back inside of hour with all 3 getting their deer.
I saw some advertised in stock at muzzle loaders.com
yes sir ur on to a good thing keep up the great work
That prime all really corodes your gun ,good video tho
Good video, you were talking about retention in the slurry, just wondering they make something that when you are panning and you have flour gold floating on top of the water, you put a drop in your pan and all the gold sinks. It kills the retention. Would that help your slurry.
Hi Terry. You might try (if you have not already) 3 equal parts of Murphy's oil soap, rubbing alcohol and Hydrogen peroxide. Let soak for a few minutes. I have found it cleans the orange residue, or at least it did for me. I will be doing a few videos on homemade percussion caps soon. I have had to change how I do them, the bang caps now use a white substance that is not as powerful as previous ones. Go figure. Keep on Keeping on.
I'm looking for a replacement for the antimony also, and will have future videos on that as well. And I have all three ingredients in the garage so I will give it a try! What strength peroxide? Mine's 30%, and my alcohol's 90%.
@@timesgonetech3057 Mine is just store bought. It all works just the same.
Use copper sheeting and 1:4 ratio of duco to acetone
I like Red Bull cans. Make great caps. And I'm making my own double base nitrocellulose/nitroglycerin lacquer hardener at a 25% concentration, or 1:3 lacquer to acetone. Adds more bang, dries harder, and waterproofs better than Duco. I anneal the aluminum before stamping and it forms near perfect caps every time. And I'll be introducing my own primer in a few days, antimony free, lead free, mercury free, water proof and formulated specifically for percussion caps. I'm calling it TO-24M.
On the dry method try some cheap cheap hairspray. I think you will be surprised and it drys very quick.
Go to a Farm supply store and get a syringe and needle for injecting cattle. You will find a much larger bore to the needle and a larger syringe. Also have you done anymore experiments with super glue? The prime all, (H48 compound) without is F42 compound basicly the only difference is ground glass. If you do a search on F42 it will come up.
Hello from sweden.
Hello, Sweden, from the USA!
22 shells have ground glass in them
Some primers have ground glass and some don't. I've used PrimeAll with and without and can't tell the difference.
Maybe try some bees wax, perhaps a little bead of it into the cap, might have to experiment with using hot air to get it to melt over the primer. Might not be possible without ignition…
I'm using double base smokeless powder dissolved in acetone and it works great. I've soaked caps in water for several minutes and they still fired.
Maby try pump bottle hair spray ?
Some company needs to make a nipple that will hold small pistol primers
Problem then is would the ATF redefine it as a firearm. Such devices and modern pistol cartridge primers did not exist in the mid 1800s.
Is it true you should never dry fire a black powder pistol? I feel like that's a myth but I hear it everywhere
If you dry fire one hundreds of times a day every day for months or years you may flatten the nose of the nipples out a little... maybe... the myths and old wives tales surrounding black powder would fill several volumes and it's nearly all BS. This myth stems from the modern firearms safety rule of always treat a firearm as if it's loaded, even when it isn't. A good rule in itself but common sense says once verified unloaded any firearm is just an expensive club. A better version of this rule might be "Always verify a firearm is unloaded before treating it as if it is." In other words, never "assume".
i traded for an 1851 with swollen nipples, but it has a really heavy hammer spring, heavier than any of my other revolvers, dont know what year it was made, my others are within the last 8 or so years.
Also the nipple may batter a hole in the hammer face.
Try hair spray.
Hair spray, spray shellac, spray polyurethane, Camp Dry - got a lot more testing to do! :-) thanks for watching!
ok, this is going to sound odd. but, if you get hurt, have a fire, or have any significant injuries, if i was you, i would get a lawyer and file a law suit. this whole primer thing has gone on for far to long. if the makers of these are unwilling to ramp up production, and we have no other choice but to make our own, we should sue them. if they start losing millions of $, maybe then they will ramp up production.
My making my own caps has nothing to do wirh a shortage. My corner gun store is fully stocked on percussion caps and reload primers.