Mines is a lot cleaner, & I do love it. I'm from Southern California so we don't worry about snow or too much rain, although these past 12 months it has rained pretty good. My 4R has the original paint & it still shines. No dents even, just minor dings here & there. But bleeding the clutch on these 4Runners is a huge pain on the arse. A shop even had me buy a new clutch & break bracket & even they had a very hard time bleeding the clutch with new break & master cylinder. They used several bleeding machines as I did. But they finally got it the old fashion way, a jar half filled with new clutch fluid (which I think it actually uses DOT3 break fluid), at the end of the slave cylinder about 2 feet raised above the ground, then had several of their mechanics pump the clutch pedal by hand & feet till one got tired, then the other mechanic will continue the process. I just never understand why sometimes it's easy & fast to bleeding since I've done it myself, but sometimes it's been nearly impossible. The clutch & break pedal bracket on these have already been cracked & welded multiple times. That's why the mechanic shop assumed I couldn't bleed it. Then they replaced it with a new bracket, just to suffer as I did till they finally got it. So my original bracket was actually fine even though it was cracked & welded twice before. But oh well, it has a new one.
I've done many transmission/clutch jobs on older BMWs, domestic trucks, and tractors but never on my '94 4runner and so I watched your video to get me warmed up for what is ahead of me. Thank you for the great camera work and voice-overs. It also gave me ideas to flat-out replace other items while I'm in there so I won't have to worry about them later. Thanks! -Mark
The clutch bleeding process can be a real pain on the arse. Some times the job can be done easily, but for whatever reason sometimes it's a real pain even by using various methods & machines. The last time, I got so fed up that I simply sent it to a mechanic shop. They had me purchase a new clutch & break pedal bracket & they still struggled a lot in bleeding the clutch using various methods & machines also.
Reverse is a little tricky even with a new clutch? Sucks. I guess the 2nd generation stick shift 4Rs are notorious over all, for clutch problems. 1 other clutch related problem, the clutch pedal & brake pedal bracket. As you press the clutch in, a part of the bracket where the crack is, flexes away from the floor, which means less of the master cylinder plunger rod goes into the master cylinder, not pushing sufficient fluid into the system, which in turn, does not allow for full disengegement of the clutch disc & pressure plate. And for reverse, good luck. I've replaced the clutch pedal & break bracket last year. But now I'm having a hard time engaging every gear, but mostly fists & second gear. Reverse gear, I have to engage it before turning on the engine to back up. Or if the engine is already on, I have to turn it off, engage reverse, then turn it back on. And any gear is always slightly engaged. Having the clutch pedal pressed in, the vehicle still is moving slightly because the clutch is not fully disengaged. So I'm about to tackle the clutch kit replacement with new flywheel in about 3 weeks. I already have all the parts. Not looking forward to doing this job on my 1991 4runner v6 4x4, again.
pushing in the clutch risks bending fingers on on pressure plate and pulling out and striping what little threads u uhad screwed into the bell housing get tool next time
How long did this take you? I'm wondering how feasible it is for someone with basic mechanical skills and tools but not a legit mechanic to do? Just ordered the parts for mine. Thin I can get a Jack and will pick up stands if need to.
So I had a missing bolt on slave and had it fixed at shop cause bolt was broke I couldn’t get out and they said they had a hard time bleeding I noticed it is still hard to get in gear when cold bled it out again clutch now starts engaging at bottom truck appears to have new master cylinder and slave looks good I added a little bit more play in peddle same thing out in 5th and tried taking off it died so I assume clutch is ok. Any thoughts?
I'll try taking a guess at what is wrong because no one else has in a year . That is a long wait . Check the peddle mounting bracket for cracks .. I'm curious about why the bolt broke off . What was the problem before the problem ? Why did the shop need to bleed the air out of it ?
I used to have the same problem till it stopped engaging even once the engine was worm. Check your clutch pedal wire adjustment at the pedal bracket. While down there, check for cracks across the bracket. These pedal brackets are notorious for cracking across. As you push the clutch pedal, the bracket frame raises upward which won't allow the pin attached to the pedal to fully insert into the clutch master cylinder, you know, the plunger looking rod. Even here in Southern California, every 2nd generation 4runner at the junkyard had the pedal brackets welded multiple times by previous owners. Long story short, I sent my 4runner to a reputable shop to bleed the clutch. They had me buy a new pedal bracket. Guess what? They still had a hell of a time bleeding the clutch. They replaced clutch master & slave cylinder. They still couldn't bleed it using various methods & multiple machines. Till they were successful at bleeding it the old method. Transparent hose at the slave cylinder, the other end on a glass jar half full of clutch fluid, the jar was raised 2 feet off the ground at level with the slave cylinder, several guys tool turns pumping the clutch pedal by hand till they got it. Keep in mind, it's not clutch fluid that Toyota uses, it used DOT 3 break fluid. Just check the required fluid. Don't assume all clutches use clutch fluid. I've had my 1991 4Runner over 10 years. I had to bleed the clutch multiple occasions & I don't know why sometimes it's been easy to bleed & sometimes it's nearly impossible. I'm not the only one who has come across this problem. Good luck with yours. Also, try changing the bushing on your stick shift. I bought my replacement kit on yotashop.com. Fill up your gear fluid might as well once the shifter lever is removed. I discovered that I needed 2 pints of gear oil.
you prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account? I was dumb lost the account password. I love any tips you can offer me!
@Ibrahim Blake I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
find itself" i think u shouldve found a clutch alingment tool and made customer buy a new flywheel or this clutch will be just as shity as the last.at least use a deep socket
Eric at SMA would faint if he saw a 90's Toyota that was that clean and rust free underneath! Thank you Oregon! Todd the retired trucker.
Mines is a lot cleaner, & I do love it. I'm from Southern California so we don't worry about snow or too much rain, although these past 12 months it has rained pretty good. My 4R has the original paint & it still shines. No dents even, just minor dings here & there. But bleeding the clutch on these 4Runners is a huge pain on the arse. A shop even had me buy a new clutch & break bracket & even they had a very hard time bleeding the clutch with new break & master cylinder. They used several bleeding machines as I did. But they finally got it the old fashion way, a jar half filled with new clutch fluid (which I think it actually uses DOT3 break fluid), at the end of the slave cylinder about 2 feet raised above the ground, then had several of their mechanics pump the clutch pedal by hand & feet till one got tired, then the other mechanic will continue the process. I just never understand why sometimes it's easy & fast to bleeding since I've done it myself, but sometimes it's been nearly impossible. The clutch & break pedal bracket on these have already been cracked & welded multiple times. That's why the mechanic shop assumed I couldn't bleed it. Then they replaced it with a new bracket, just to suffer as I did till they finally got it. So my original bracket was actually fine even though it was cracked & welded twice before. But oh well, it has a new one.
I've done many transmission/clutch jobs on older BMWs, domestic trucks, and tractors but never on my '94 4runner and so I watched your video to get me warmed up for what is ahead of me. Thank you for the great camera work and voice-overs. It also gave me ideas to flat-out replace other items while I'm in there so I won't have to worry about them later.
Thanks!
-Mark
The clutch bleeding process can be a real pain on the arse. Some times the job can be done easily, but for whatever reason sometimes it's a real pain even by using various methods & machines. The last time, I got so fed up that I simply sent it to a mechanic shop. They had me purchase a new clutch & break pedal bracket & they still struggled a lot in bleeding the clutch using various methods & machines also.
Reverse is a little tricky even with a new clutch? Sucks. I guess the 2nd generation stick shift 4Rs are notorious over all, for clutch problems. 1 other clutch related problem, the clutch pedal & brake pedal bracket. As you press the clutch in, a part of the bracket where the crack is, flexes away from the floor, which means less of the master cylinder plunger rod goes into the master cylinder, not pushing sufficient fluid into the system, which in turn, does not allow for full disengegement of the clutch disc & pressure plate. And for reverse, good luck. I've replaced the clutch pedal & break bracket last year. But now I'm having a hard time engaging every gear, but mostly fists & second gear. Reverse gear, I have to engage it before turning on the engine to back up. Or if the engine is already on, I have to turn it off, engage reverse, then turn it back on. And any gear is always slightly engaged. Having the clutch pedal pressed in, the vehicle still is moving slightly because the clutch is not fully disengaged. So I'm about to tackle the clutch kit replacement with new flywheel in about 3 weeks. I already have all the parts. Not looking forward to doing this job on my 1991 4runner v6 4x4, again.
Nice South Main Auto reference there.
Do you have any videos on head gasket replacement for these motors?
I think you're kind of comparing apples to oranges with the 4runner and Cherokee as the 4runner has IFS and the jeep has a solid axle...
The Jack Shack our straight axle trucks ride better than that Cherokee lmao.
I love the old toyotas
pushing in the clutch risks bending fingers on on pressure plate and pulling out and striping what little threads u uhad screwed into the bell housing get tool next time
Thanks for posting this!
Great job Jimmie
How long did this take you? I'm wondering how feasible it is for someone with basic mechanical skills and tools but not a legit mechanic to do? Just ordered the parts for mine. Thin I can get a Jack and will pick up stands if need to.
This took me about 4-5 hours. I also work slow.
he has most definitely watched at least some AvE
You should just start your own business. Make it a reality show on TH-cam lol
Nice Pho-runner !
You should use a torque wrench. On the pressure plate.
So I had a missing bolt on slave and had it fixed at shop cause bolt was broke I couldn’t get out and they said they had a hard time bleeding I noticed it is still hard to get in gear when cold bled it out again clutch now starts engaging at bottom truck appears to have new master cylinder and slave looks good I added a little bit more play in peddle same thing out in 5th and tried taking off it died so I assume clutch is ok. Any thoughts?
I'll try taking a guess at what is wrong because no one else has in a year .
That is a long wait .
Check the peddle mounting bracket for cracks ..
I'm curious about why the bolt broke off . What was the problem before the problem ?
Why did the shop need to bleed the air out of it ?
I used to have the same problem till it stopped engaging even once the engine was worm. Check your clutch pedal wire adjustment at the pedal bracket. While down there, check for cracks across the bracket. These pedal brackets are notorious for cracking across. As you push the clutch pedal, the bracket frame raises upward which won't allow the pin attached to the pedal to fully insert into the clutch master cylinder, you know, the plunger looking rod. Even here in Southern California, every 2nd generation 4runner at the junkyard had the pedal brackets welded multiple times by previous owners. Long story short, I sent my 4runner to a reputable shop to bleed the clutch. They had me buy a new pedal bracket. Guess what? They still had a hell of a time bleeding the clutch. They replaced clutch master & slave cylinder. They still couldn't bleed it using various methods & multiple machines. Till they were successful at bleeding it the old method. Transparent hose at the slave cylinder, the other end on a glass jar half full of clutch fluid, the jar was raised 2 feet off the ground at level with the slave cylinder, several guys tool turns pumping the clutch pedal by hand till they got it. Keep in mind, it's not clutch fluid that Toyota uses, it used DOT 3 break fluid. Just check the required fluid. Don't assume all clutches use clutch fluid. I've had my 1991 4Runner over 10 years. I had to bleed the clutch multiple occasions & I don't know why sometimes it's been easy to bleed & sometimes it's nearly impossible. I'm not the only one who has come across this problem. Good luck with yours. Also, try changing the bushing on your stick shift. I bought my replacement kit on yotashop.com. Fill up your gear fluid might as well once the shifter lever is removed. I discovered that I needed 2 pints of gear oil.
Good job well done
Good job Jimmy!
you prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb lost the account password. I love any tips you can offer me!
@Will Cassius Instablaster =)
@Ibrahim Blake I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Ibrahim Blake it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account!
@Will Cassius glad I could help xD
Creeper, knee pads, and rubber gloves are your friends, man.
Nice video
Good Job.
I'd buy the 4runner to replace the Lincoln
oh ya luk clutches have put up with the most violent abuse with 37s on a 3slow ive seen and for the price u wont find better
LUK clutches are amongst the best and used on manyOEM's- unless he got some used piece of shit
A 3 slow 4 runner
Dude you need a bigger shop..
Ahhh yes working on some rice 🍚
Are you sure that’s a 94? Looks like a 90 or 91
1990_4Runner I’ve got a 94 and it’s identical to this besides the paint job
It looks like a 90 or a 91 to me too, the headlights are the sealed beam type, not the 92 facelift style.
find itself" i think u shouldve found a clutch alingment tool and made customer buy a new flywheel or this clutch will be just as shity as the last.at least use a deep socket
If he had a new fly wheel he wouldn't be able to eyeball it the groove ..😮