Daryl dear, please only add the acid after you have combined the water and the grains. Let the mash sit for 10 minutes, take a sample, cool it down to 22 degrees and check. You will be ruining the strike water by adding the acid first. Also life is much simpler using a calculator like Bru n Water......it'll tell u the exact amount of acid needed, rest of your process is just - ON THE MONEY..........................love your videos.......cheers love
Thanks for your comment and feedback! You make a great point about adding acid to the mash water and I have now changed this part of my process. I'm glad to hear that you find using a calculator like Bru n Water to be helpful for determining the amount of acid needed. I also find this to be a useful tool, especially when dealing with unfamiliar water profiles. Thanks again for watching my videos and for your kind words. Cheers to you too!
Very enjoyable video Daryl! I do love a good pale ale. After your encouragement I'm trying out Kveik Voss for the first time. Last Monday I brewed a golden ale but added 500g of wild gorse flowers to the boil. Hoping to bottle this weekend. So a double whammy on the experimental front!
As far as rinsing your grain bag with plain hot water, that would only bring your gravity and ABV down. If you rinsed it with the wort, it would stay the same. Squeezing the bag (which I always do out of principle and habit) only increases the volume of your wort, not the "strength." The converted free-swimming wort is the same gravity as the wort clinging to the grain in your bag. Rinsing it with water dilutes it (and that's not a bad idea if you need to hit your numbers and you're too high). Otherwise, fully converted wort is as strong as it is ever going to be, squeezing or not. I hope that makes sense.
Great video Daryl! Beer looks great! One of my best pale ales with Lutra (use that yeast also almost exclusive now) was with Magnum for a short bitter punch and then Mosaic and Citra.
Nice one Henrik! I'm moving towards more Lutra brews, got an upcoming video where I compare it with voss... SPOILER, I now prefer Lutra! That sounds like a winning mix of hops
Thanks for the content Daryl. Going to try a version of this recipe today. 30 min boil, haven't tried that so will have a go, bit of a time saver. Brew shop only had Voss yeast and had to replace Centennial with Cascade (I said it is a version of your recipe) Keep up the great videos!
Thanks for watching! Yes I did and it was still around 5.6. Others have said that perhaps I should have only altered the PH during the mash but I did not encounter any issues on this brew day when altering the water at the start. Could be that I just got lucky?!?
Hi Daryl. Another great video. Out of interest, do you use some sort of false bottom or equivalent, so that you can turn the burner back on during the mash, without damaging the bag? Cheers!
I don't use a false bottom, I just make sure to keep stirring the grains whilst I've got the burners. Never had a bag damaged by the burners, but a false bottom is a great way to make it less likely!
Cheers! I did do that the first few times but then had comments that I needed to prepare the water before the mash! Perhaps I need to do a little mix of the two next time and slightly alter the water ahead of the mash and the continue to alter as the mash begins to get it bang on? I did test it during the mash and it was still around 5.6. Perhaps I just got lucky this time?!?
@@Kveiksmithdaryl Yes mate, I always add Phosphoric or Lactic last as you can never tell what your grain will do (as it differs from batch to batch), don’t worry that it takes a few mins to dial in, you will be ok. Ignore the comments on water before the mash - most pro brewers add salts to grist and pH adjusters post mash from my experience. It certainly is the chosen method amongst the majority of the UK Brew tubers. Nice video mate.
It would depend on the water profile of the water you're using. There are water chemistry calculators out there (For free!) which can help you match. You'll need to check your water providers website to if you're using tap water
Hi, my fermentation temperature was probably around 35 degrees celsius. This fluctuated quite a bit as I don't have accurate fermenting temperature control, but if you check out my previous video about Kveik yeast I explain why this isn't a problem. Thanks for watching!
![ง้อ (ALRIGHT) - FOURTH Prod. by URBOYTJ [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qs8ZeV6Dqj8/mqdefault.jpg)
Daryl dear, please only add the acid after you have combined the water and the grains. Let the mash sit for 10 minutes, take a sample, cool it down to 22 degrees and check. You will be ruining the strike water by adding the acid first. Also life is much simpler using a calculator like Bru n Water......it'll tell u the exact amount of acid needed, rest of your process is just - ON THE MONEY..........................love your videos.......cheers love
Thanks for your comment and feedback! You make a great point about adding acid to the mash water and I have now changed this part of my process.
I'm glad to hear that you find using a calculator like Bru n Water to be helpful for determining the amount of acid needed. I also find this to be a useful tool, especially when dealing with unfamiliar water profiles.
Thanks again for watching my videos and for your kind words. Cheers to you too!
I am originally from Bath, now live in Melbourne. I brew all grain, keep the videos going, cheers.
Cheers John! I live not too far from Bath, love visiting there, especially for the Christmas Market! Thanks for watching
Very enjoyable video Daryl! I do love a good pale ale. After your encouragement I'm trying out Kveik Voss for the first time. Last Monday I brewed a golden ale but added 500g of wild gorse flowers to the boil. Hoping to bottle this weekend. So a double whammy on the experimental front!
Gosh this sounds absolutely brilliant! Love the idea of brewing with gorse, might have to try it some time!
Beer looks and sounds great!!!
Cheers! I'm really pleased with it!
As far as rinsing your grain bag with plain hot water, that would only bring your gravity and ABV down. If you rinsed it with the wort, it would stay the same. Squeezing the bag (which I always do out of principle and habit) only increases the volume of your wort, not the "strength." The converted free-swimming wort is the same gravity as the wort clinging to the grain in your bag. Rinsing it with water dilutes it (and that's not a bad idea if you need to hit your numbers and you're too high). Otherwise, fully converted wort is as strong as it is ever going to be, squeezing or not. I hope that makes sense.
Thank you, great advice
Great video Daryl! Beer looks great!
One of my best pale ales with Lutra (use that yeast also almost exclusive now) was with Magnum for a short bitter punch and then Mosaic and Citra.
Nice one Henrik! I'm moving towards more Lutra brews, got an upcoming video where I compare it with voss... SPOILER, I now prefer Lutra! That sounds like a winning mix of hops
Interesting video, beer looks great.
Thanks so much for watching!
Thanks for the content Daryl. Going to try a version of this recipe today. 30 min boil, haven't tried that so will have a go, bit of a time saver. Brew shop only had Voss yeast and had to replace Centennial with Cascade (I said it is a version of your recipe) Keep up the great videos!
Amazing! I'm all for having trying twists on recipes, hope it went well! I love a 30 minute boil!
Open the cascade and leave it at room temp for a month or so to crank up the grapefruit notes you get from it.
Looks like a very tasty pale ale Daryl. I was wondering if you rechecked your ph after you started your mash? Cheers
Thanks for watching! Yes I did and it was still around 5.6. Others have said that perhaps I should have only altered the PH during the mash but I did not encounter any issues on this brew day when altering the water at the start. Could be that I just got lucky?!?
Hi Daryl. Another great video. Out of interest, do you use some sort of false bottom or equivalent, so that you can turn the burner back on during the mash, without damaging the bag?
Cheers!
I don't use a false bottom, I just make sure to keep stirring the grains whilst I've got the burners. Never had a bag damaged by the burners, but a false bottom is a great way to make it less likely!
Hi
Voss kveik dose it make a grate British ale?
I’ve had success using both Voss and Lutra for this. Lutra is more neutral so you get less of a ‘farmhouse’ taste to the beer
Mate, your grain will affect your pH, always mash in then add your pH until you meet the target dude, you’ll find it easier and more accurate.
Cheers! I did do that the first few times but then had comments that I needed to prepare the water before the mash! Perhaps I need to do a little mix of the two next time and slightly alter the water ahead of the mash and the continue to alter as the mash begins to get it bang on? I did test it during the mash and it was still around 5.6. Perhaps I just got lucky this time?!?
@@Kveiksmithdaryl Yes mate, I always add Phosphoric or Lactic last as you can never tell what your grain will do (as it differs from batch to batch), don’t worry that it takes a few mins to dial in, you will be ok. Ignore the comments on water before the mash - most pro brewers add salts to grist and pH adjusters post mash from my experience. It certainly is the chosen method amongst the majority of the UK Brew tubers. Nice video mate.
Great video!
In the end, what is your exact water profile?
Thank you :-)
Thanks so much for watching! I've now added the exact water profile details to the description
@@Kveiksmithdaryl thanks 🍻
Try Sabro hops mate
It's on my list! So many hops I'm desperate to try!
Great video. If you used the water profile from AB, does this mean we can copy that even with a different water profile ?
It would depend on the water profile of the water you're using. There are water chemistry calculators out there (For free!) which can help you match. You'll need to check your water providers website to if you're using tap water
Hey man. My english listening is not so good and I dont know if you told the fermentation temperarure. Can you answer me?
Hi, my fermentation temperature was probably around 35 degrees celsius. This fluctuated quite a bit as I don't have accurate fermenting temperature control, but if you check out my previous video about Kveik yeast I explain why this isn't a problem. Thanks for watching!
@@Kveiksmithdaryl Nice! I'll whatch the others videos. Thanks for your help!
@@Kveiksmithdaryl Nice! I'll whatch the others videos. Thanks for your help!