Worth pointing out a few points. 1 you don't need to take off the clutch arm at all, just the clutch cable. 2 don't touch the arm when removing the cover and put a little paint mark on where the arm now sits in relation to the triangle marking on the cover. You can then line the paint mark back up again on installation of the cover and the arm will be perfectly in line. The clutch arm turns more when the cover is removed/installed you see. 3 Make sure you push and give the clutch cover plate a good wiggle before fastening the springs as the plate will drop a little more and close up all the slack in the plates and pull arm. 4 You need to check the stack height is within spec, normally always is but worth checking. 5 make sure to soak your new plates in oil for hours before installing them. 6 The front most bolt on the outside cover needs a little lock tight on it.
In the service manual the picture shows that the new clutch install first then the flat disk then the spring like bowl disk then friction disk then clutch disk and so on. In this video not same as 2008 user manual service clutch plate picture shown.
I got the same problem, when first riding the bike it feels good exept for the clutch. When i pull the clutch and shift gear i just feel the clutch popping loose trough the clucht lever... it's so grabby and not smooth so this mod will get rid of that problem ? Wil there be less clutch power due to the last plate who wont grab ?
Word of advice, fast forward your recording of removing the cover or any prep work for actually starting the work. The whole first 4:20 is unnecessary since it takes common sense to remove the cover and you didn’t really cover any needed info during that time. Other than that good video and explaining what to do for those who don’t know what to do
Krishan P if someone has to wing and take lots of time unscrewing a few bolts to take the cover off and really require a video explanation of unscrewing cover bolts then they probably shouldn’t be working on something that requires a bit more experience or knowledge as a clutch 🤷🏾♂️ I still gave him credit for the remainder of the video it was just a recommendation 🙄
@@navystrackstar Its always nice to find a video that shows it all... is all im saying. Nobody has experience on a clutch unless you try it for the first time... Does your skip ahead button not work?
Hi pal see the first metal ring is it pure flat on both sides or is 1 side ever so slightly rounded the same as clutch plates them self flat side outwards.
I did the mod and it is slightly better. Especialy when going hard from 0 it has the comon feeling of a good clutch. However i started searching for this clutch errors because of the tension thats getting into the clutch when driving and up and down shifting. When pulling the clutch you feel the cable pulling when schifting gear does anyone have this same feeling ? Seems to be normal because of the slipper clutch ??
@@chrishendry1480 i'm still anoyed by it and fight it every day ;-) I think it's just the mechanism that pulls the tension off the clutch that is pulling too less. They sure made this to let the clutchlever feel softer but i think it could have been a little more hard it the plates could just engages a little more so the friction between the big stack of clutchplates would be less when pulling the clutch. I always got the feeling when i'm on standstill and pull the clutch the bike still wants to go when i'm in first gear. And when i am in neutral and pull the clutch to kick it in first it has a verry hard click all because the clutchplates do nog engages enough. Only cure for this problem would be to adjust the clutchleverarm in the engine to let it pull a little bit more.
moekakke you need to make sure the the clutch arm ( engine side) is in the right position, so that when you when you push it forward with your finger to when it stops, the end of the arm should line up with the triangle mark underneath the clutch case. It needs to start to disengage from that point👍
@@chrishendry1480 if i have not done that correctly i better not work on my own bike don't you think ? ;-) No matter what you do when you pull the clutchlever the clutch just never ever desingage enough to have al friction from the clutch. That is also why the bike most of the times makes a hard noise when you go from neutral to first in standstill. I noticed that my pressure plate bearing is gone to. So i'm gonna change it in a few days and maybe this will improve the clutching a bit god knows...
You don't clip the Y springs behind the nut? on my R6 I clipped the ears off 2 springs and reassembled and its crazy how much better it is on decel at the track.
I know for the R6, clipping those ears off helps with the slipper clutch smoothness. I've looked into it for my race bike but was too scared to go cutting things off. I'm not sure if the R1 works the same or not. The mod in this video is simply grabbiness associated with letting go of the clutch lever. On this generation R1, sometimes it sort of "grabs" a little bit and then jerks hard when letting out the clutch, instead of one clean smooth motion. This mod doesn't address anything with the slipper function.
John-Paul Craig ahh. Well the clutch looks identical so I wonder if modifying the slipper function would also help. It made a huge difference on the R6. I left the judder Springs in at the back too but some people remove them but then it’s harder to launch
hello i live in argentina and i can't get the serious kit, but if the oem yamaha parts, is it the same? you had no problems using it?improve clutch the same way you do bass kit
After converting the clutch with the graves clutch kit, when the time comes to replace your clutch plate, do you replace everything including that 1 friction plate that comes with the graves kit?
Yeah, I would think you need to buy a clutch replacement pack and the pieces that get swapped out in the graves kit. Since I just got the parts from the 2008 model, it may be possible to just buy a full 2008 clutch replacement kit and be done, but i'm not 100% sure.
For those encountering a loose clutch cable after installing the clutch @ 16:48 there's another video addressing this issue th-cam.com/video/D4Imz3tEAfA/w-d-xo.html Worked like a magic trick!
just as a general maintence I want to change the clutch. Has 14k miles on it. Its not necessary to change the springs right? on the parts listed above the last one (springs) doesnt show up at yam official dealers? any ideas
You shouldn't need to, no. The springs I used were optional and they were the YEC race springs. They're extra heavy (not good for traffic). But yeah, your stock springs should be just fine unless one managed to break or something.
John-Paul Craig thanks a bunch, don’t think I would attempt this without your video. So 👍🏼 you can make the change with draining the oil at the normal height of the bike is on the side stand. Do you think this is ok ?
@@baigsy01 if it's a normal sportbike, or like this r1, you should not have to drain the oil. I'd put a pan underneath in case there's any dripping, but most sportbikes have the oil collect in the pan well below the clutch. For instance in you have a sight glass, the oil level should be below your clutch cover, so it should be plenty safe. The exception would be something like a grom where there's just one engine cover that hides the oil pan, clutch, etc. And glad I could help, thanks for the compliment.
It's just for a heavier feel. Makes the clutch lever feel pretty heavy. I simply did it because I wanted to have race springs in it. In reality, it doesn't do much. It's even a bad idea somewhat for a street bike because traffic and holding the clutch lever gets tiring even faster. I was just in there already so figured I'd try it out.
Sorry for the late reply. Mine is specifically a 2009. I replaced the clutch springs with firmer race springs, but that is completely optional and not directly a part of this mod. I just did it because i had it opened up anyway, so killing two birds with one stone, that's all.
This is ONLY for 2009-2014 Yamaha R1s, it doesnt apply to any other bike. The point is to have smoother clutch transition and engagement. I'm not sure what rn22 means.
rn22 is model name of Yamaha R1 from 2009-2014. Now I have Yamaha from 2012, and I have strange noise from clutch, and when i try to move on my bike he behave is unnormal compared to my older GSXR . So I try to find solution what is wrong with my bike
Thank you for the great tutorial! 2 stupid questions for you: 1) You were soaking those parts just in motor oil yes? 2) Do you need to drain the oil from the bike beforehand?
Yes, they we're soaking in oil. And if you have the bike on the kickstand, you don't need to drain any oil. It should all be far below the clutch once it sits.
I got rid of the clutch mod i just had too much problems shifting the clutch was not letting go that easely anymore and there was resistance in the gearbox. I hate having to put force when i shift ! Maybe i will change my mind later i just don't know. The only reason for this mod is to have a smooth start from standstill and even then it leads it's own life...
Are you referring to around 9:06? If so, the last friction plate is thrown out because its at the end of the stack. I believe it's the same as all the others, but for the sake of simplicity, it's easiest to remove the last one because that's where the new parts go in. As for functionally why this works any different than before...I don't really know, i just followed instructions based on the Graves clutch kit and it worked out, so i made the video to give an idea of the work involved. But I'm not much of a clutch expert overall.
@@JohnPaulCraig Ty very much, I've researched it a little bit now and it would seem that it's to spread the stress's on the basket and would appear that most modern clutches are following this design now :-)
Waste of money. Did the same install on my 2012 Yamaha r1, nothing works no engagement of the clutch to get the motorcycle going, clutch just making a screeching noise.
Worth pointing out a few points. 1 you don't need to take off the clutch arm at all, just the clutch cable. 2 don't touch the arm when removing the cover and put a little paint mark on where the arm now sits in relation to the triangle marking on the cover. You can then line the paint mark back up again on installation of the cover and the arm will be perfectly in line. The clutch arm turns more when the cover is removed/installed you see. 3 Make sure you push and give the clutch cover plate a good wiggle before fastening the springs as the plate will drop a little more and close up all the slack in the plates and pull arm. 4 You need to check the stack height is within spec, normally always is but worth checking. 5 make sure to soak your new plates in oil for hours before installing them. 6 The front most bolt on the outside cover needs a little lock tight on it.
Good points, thanks! I kinda just make these as I go to give people an idea of what they might be getting into. Always appreciate additional info.
From 2012 there is no circular spring anymore. And all the discs have the sale thickness
In the service manual the picture shows that the new clutch install first then the flat disk then the spring like bowl disk then friction disk then clutch disk and so on. In this video not same as 2008 user manual service clutch plate picture shown.
No wire?? I left mine out. I broke 2 of them trying to install it....
I got the same problem, when first riding the bike it feels good exept for the clutch. When i pull the clutch and shift gear i just feel the clutch popping loose trough the clucht lever... it's so grabby and not smooth so this mod will get rid of that problem ? Wil there be less clutch power due to the last plate who wont grab ?
Word of advice, fast forward your recording of removing the cover or any prep work for actually starting the work. The whole first 4:20 is unnecessary since it takes common sense to remove the cover and you didn’t really cover any needed info during that time. Other than that good video and explaining what to do for those who don’t know what to do
Brandon Blanding_916
To be fair common sense isn't too common...lol
neillgarcia5 true statement lol
Disagree... Inexperienced riders wont know and will waste lots of time trying to "wing it". Nice vid buddy!
Krishan P if someone has to wing and take lots of time unscrewing a few bolts to take the cover off and really require a video explanation of unscrewing cover bolts then they probably shouldn’t be working on something that requires a bit more experience or knowledge as a clutch 🤷🏾♂️ I still gave him credit for the remainder of the video it was just a recommendation 🙄
@@navystrackstar Its always nice to find a video that shows it all... is all im saying. Nobody has experience on a clutch unless you try it for the first time... Does your skip ahead button not work?
what frame slider is that? not the normal one but the ones you have right infront of the rear sets. i’d like to get a set
It's the Graves Clutch Slider.
thank you 🙏🏽
Are each of the friction plates different sizes or just the last one and are all the steel plates the same size as well?
find out?
I believe first and last are thinner than middle ones
Hi pal see the first metal ring is it pure flat on both sides or is 1 side ever so slightly rounded the same as clutch plates them self flat side outwards.
The ring at around 9:50 is definitely slightly rounded. The other ones are the same on both sides.
I did the mod and it is slightly better. Especialy when going hard from 0 it has the comon feeling of a good clutch. However i started searching for this clutch errors because of the tension thats getting into the clutch when driving and up and down shifting. When pulling the clutch you feel the cable pulling when schifting gear does anyone have this same feeling ? Seems to be normal because of the slipper clutch ??
Did you ever sort it out?
@@chrishendry1480 i'm still anoyed by it and fight it every day ;-) I think it's just the mechanism that pulls the tension off the clutch that is pulling too less. They sure made this to let the clutchlever feel softer but i think it could have been a little more hard it the plates could just engages a little more so the friction between the big stack of clutchplates would be less when pulling the clutch. I always got the feeling when i'm on standstill and pull the clutch the bike still wants to go when i'm in first gear. And when i am in neutral and pull the clutch to kick it in first it has a verry hard click all because the clutchplates do nog engages enough. Only cure for this problem would be to adjust the clutchleverarm in the engine to let it pull a little bit more.
moekakke you need to make sure the the clutch arm ( engine side) is in the right position, so that when you when you push it forward with your finger to when it stops, the end of the arm should line up with the triangle mark underneath the clutch case. It needs to start to disengage from that point👍
@@chrishendry1480 if i have not done that correctly i better not work on my own bike don't you think ? ;-) No matter what you do when you pull the clutchlever the clutch just never ever desingage enough to have al friction from the clutch. That is also why the bike most of the times makes a hard noise when you go from neutral to first in standstill. I noticed that my pressure plate bearing is gone to. So i'm gonna change it in a few days and maybe this will improve the clutching a bit god knows...
You don't clip the Y springs behind the nut? on my R6 I clipped the ears off 2 springs and reassembled and its crazy how much better it is on decel at the track.
I know for the R6, clipping those ears off helps with the slipper clutch smoothness. I've looked into it for my race bike but was too scared to go cutting things off. I'm not sure if the R1 works the same or not. The mod in this video is simply grabbiness associated with letting go of the clutch lever. On this generation R1, sometimes it sort of "grabs" a little bit and then jerks hard when letting out the clutch, instead of one clean smooth motion. This mod doesn't address anything with the slipper function.
John-Paul Craig ahh. Well the clutch looks identical so I wonder if modifying the slipper function would also help. It made a huge difference on the R6. I left the judder Springs in at the back too but some people remove them but then it’s harder to launch
hello i live in argentina and i can't get the serious kit, but if the oem yamaha parts, is it the same? you had no problems using it?improve clutch the same way you do bass kit
Correct, i just used the OEM parts that i listed, nothing special and it all worked well.
After converting the clutch with the graves clutch kit, when the time comes to replace your clutch plate, do you replace everything including that 1 friction plate that comes with the graves kit?
Yeah, I would think you need to buy a clutch replacement pack and the pieces that get swapped out in the graves kit. Since I just got the parts from the 2008 model, it may be possible to just buy a full 2008 clutch replacement kit and be done, but i'm not 100% sure.
For those encountering a loose clutch cable after installing the clutch @ 16:48
there's another video addressing this issue th-cam.com/video/D4Imz3tEAfA/w-d-xo.html
Worked like a magic trick!
just as a general maintence I want to change the clutch. Has 14k miles on it. Its not necessary to change the springs right? on the parts listed above the last one (springs) doesnt show up at yam official dealers? any ideas
You shouldn't need to, no. The springs I used were optional and they were the YEC race springs. They're extra heavy (not good for traffic). But yeah, your stock springs should be just fine unless one managed to break or something.
John-Paul Craig thanks a bunch, don’t think I would attempt this without your video. So 👍🏼 you can make the change with draining the oil at the normal height of the bike is on the side stand. Do you think this is ok ?
@@baigsy01 if it's a normal sportbike, or like this r1, you should not have to drain the oil. I'd put a pan underneath in case there's any dripping, but most sportbikes have the oil collect in the pan well below the clutch. For instance in you have a sight glass, the oil level should be below your clutch cover, so it should be plenty safe. The exception would be something like a grom where there's just one engine cover that hides the oil pan, clutch, etc.
And glad I could help, thanks for the compliment.
John-Paul Craig super dupper, Will let you know how how I get on.
So, got through most of the mod, but while the plates I turned the wheel. Is this an issue?
John-Paul Craig What did you get with changing springs? If i keep old ones, do i loose on smoothnes or something else?
It's just for a heavier feel. Makes the clutch lever feel pretty heavy. I simply did it because I wanted to have race springs in it. In reality, it doesn't do much. It's even a bad idea somewhat for a street bike because traffic and holding the clutch lever gets tiring even faster. I was just in there already so figured I'd try it out.
@@JohnPaulCraig Tnx for quick answer. I am mainly ride in city, so i won't change springs then
What year is this. I just took mine apart. Waiting for parts but i did not have the first little springs you out in. I have a 2012 yzf r1
Sorry for the late reply. Mine is specifically a 2009. I replaced the clutch springs with firmer race springs, but that is completely optional and not directly a part of this mod. I just did it because i had it opened up anyway, so killing two birds with one stone, that's all.
Tried the mod, really didn’t change a whole lot. Took it out and went stock.
only thing it does is help clutch judder off the line and wierd engagement in cold weather
Olá qual o site que você compra as peças? grato
What do you want to achive this modification ? How can i check condition fo my clutch in rn22?
This is ONLY for 2009-2014 Yamaha R1s, it doesnt apply to any other bike. The point is to have smoother clutch transition and engagement. I'm not sure what rn22 means.
rn22 is model name of Yamaha R1 from 2009-2014. Now I have Yamaha from 2012, and I have strange noise from clutch, and when i try to move on my bike he behave is unnormal compared to my older GSXR . So I try to find solution what is wrong with my bike
Thank you for the great tutorial! 2 stupid questions for you:
1) You were soaking those parts just in motor oil yes?
2) Do you need to drain the oil from the bike beforehand?
Yes, they we're soaking in oil. And if you have the bike on the kickstand, you don't need to drain any oil. It should all be far below the clutch once it sits.
I got rid of the clutch mod i just had too much problems shifting the clutch was not letting go that easely anymore and there was resistance in the gearbox. I hate having to put force when i shift !
Maybe i will change my mind later i just don't know. The only reason for this mod is to have a smooth start from standstill and even then it leads it's own life...
I like the grabby clutch.
Excellent video John but can I ask why the last friction plate is placed in differently ?
Are you referring to around 9:06? If so, the last friction plate is thrown out because its at the end of the stack. I believe it's the same as all the others, but for the sake of simplicity, it's easiest to remove the last one because that's where the new parts go in. As for functionally why this works any different than before...I don't really know, i just followed instructions based on the Graves clutch kit and it worked out, so i made the video to give an idea of the work involved. But I'm not much of a clutch expert overall.
@@JohnPaulCraig Ty very much, I've researched it a little bit now and it would seem that it's to spread the stress's on the basket and would appear that most modern clutches are following this design now :-)
for clutch plates. metal plates have one side smooth other side has sharp edge. how do they go?
sharp egde facing outside of the clutch ,
Is the first ring same as clutch plates. Sharp edge ?
My first ring has a flat side on it ?
Awesome video thanks for sharing what frame sliders are you using???
The frame sliders and clutch slider are all from Graves.
For all the parts you listed, will they work with a 2010 yzfr1?
Rory Taylor yes, I have a 2009, 2010 is the same engine wise and all. All same parts.
Thanks man!
Hey bro, did you need to but a longer bolt to for the Frame Sliders?
All the sliders are from Graves and came with all the necessary hardware.
Did it work, has the grabbyness benn cured?
It worked for me, yeah.
Waste of money. Did the same install on my 2012 Yamaha r1, nothing works no engagement of the clutch to get the motorcycle going, clutch just making a screeching noise.
sounds like installation error.
Koshunae you are absolutely correct lol
Yep.. done it 1h ago, test it.. grabby clutch is gone :) everything works perfect!
Nice
I ride R1 09 in Thailand
บีบอย ไม่สนโลก Always good to see more Yamaha riders!
liar
What is the torque of the clutch cover
8.7 lb
How the fuck do you get the cover back on without knocking the toothed rod out of the hole it sits in?
You mean the one at 12:37? It didn't seem too bad. Once the piece that the springs screw into is on it kinda holds it enough to not fall back out.
Thanks.. I have done to my bike and im happy with it.
Thanks motochaotic
Ryan Fagan Thanks DJ Snugs!
Im change in 10 minutes. Very slow
Nice👍