Great rundown of the lens! I found that this video can also apply to the MC-III version (MC Tele Rokkor-PF 135mm f/2.8, with the rubber waffle grip with 5 rows).
One in the mail today. Smegma on the lenses, for I paid $9.99 on ebay for it. The rest of the lens is smooth. No tight spots. I thought this would be my first lens to practice on to take apart. And yes, I'm keeping it away from my other lenses!
I have that lens, and I am amazed at the engineering and the craftsmanship it took, unlike the plastic radios that pass as lenses today. Now that I see how it's built internally I appreciate it more!
I just bought a copy of this lens that has a small amount of fungus with the intention of cleaning it. What's the best way to dissolve the adhesive to tear down the lens elements? I'm assuing isopropyl alcohol will do the trick, or perhaps a heat gun? Do you replace the adhesive when you reassemble? Thanks for your videos, theyre very helpful!
Hi, thanks for a very good walk through! I have the version with rubber grip on the focusing ring but it seems to be very close or even 100% close internally so I used your guide to fix a ton of problems with an old wreck I got. The only thing I still have a light problem with is that there is play in the focusing thread (helicoid). I can see at 10:57 that there is a screw on the outside of the mechanism in your video, is that screw for tightening the play in the whole focusing mechanism? Thanks and best regards from Sweden!
Hmm, I don't think so. In my understanding, that screw is the focusing limiter. When you focus in or out, a piece on the focusing ring itself hits against this screw, limiting how far you can focus in either direction. If there is too much play in the focusing, try to determine where this coming from. Make sure all the components of the lens are tightly coupled together first and that the play is not coming from somewhere else. If the focusing threads themselves seem to be to blame, you may need to add some new lubricant. I've seen a few lenses where the focusing feels like it suddenly slips. Cleaning out the old lubricant and adding a small amount of new lubricant evenly over the threads sometimes can help with this
Excellent video Matt. However, I am struggling to disassemble the front lenses (I have some haze on the rear side of the front lens). Looks like there is some black glue used to secure the front ring. Any tipp on how to unmount the front lens? Do I need to use glue again when reassembling the lens?
I went a bit further by accident and took out the blades. It's a nightmare to put them back together. I wonder if lens technicians use special tools to deal with those blades and really small holes on the rotating plate when positioning them properly without wasting too much time.
Yes the blades take some time to get used to but with more practice, as long as you take it slow, its not so bad. No clue how these were originally put together but I imagine they had some sort of specialized machine or tool to help with the process I didn't take apart the diaphragm in this video but I do show the steps in a number of other videos, such as th-cam.com/video/BUQAchLpI8k/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/jgGzCbmxxSc/w-d-xo.html MC Minoltas from this era are generally pretty similar when it comes to the diaphragm so you should be able to apply those steps to this lens as well. As you probably know, it is important never touch the blades with your fingers. I also recommend slightly marking the blades or taking a photo of them before taking them apart so you can line things up again. This particular lens is nice because you can reassemble the diaphragm outside of the lens and then slide it back in place.
i just got this lens and the focusing ring is so stiff, so i should do full disassembly right? or can i just reach the helicoid from rear or front maybe?
Great rundown of the lens! I found that this video can also apply to the MC-III version (MC Tele Rokkor-PF 135mm f/2.8, with the rubber waffle grip with 5 rows).
very usefull, thabnk you
One in the mail today. Smegma on the lenses, for I paid $9.99 on ebay for it. The rest of the lens is smooth. No tight spots. I thought this would be my first lens to practice on to take apart. And yes, I'm keeping it away from my other lenses!
I have that lens, and I am amazed at the engineering and the craftsmanship it took, unlike the plastic radios that pass as lenses today. Now that I see how it's built internally I appreciate it more!
I just bought a copy of this lens that has a small amount of fungus with the intention of cleaning it. What's the best way to dissolve the adhesive to tear down the lens elements? I'm assuing isopropyl alcohol will do the trick, or perhaps a heat gun? Do you replace the adhesive when you reassemble? Thanks for your videos, theyre very helpful!
Matt, keep up the good work! I picked up the 135 f2.8 a few months ago. Great lens
Is the Lens Glass RADIOACTIVE?
Hi, thanks for a very good walk through! I have the version with rubber grip on the focusing ring but it seems to be very close or even 100% close internally so I used your guide to fix a ton of problems with an old wreck I got. The only thing I still have a light problem with is that there is play in the focusing thread (helicoid). I can see at 10:57 that there is a screw on the outside of the mechanism in your video, is that screw for tightening the play in the whole focusing mechanism? Thanks and best regards from Sweden!
Hmm, I don't think so. In my understanding, that screw is the focusing limiter. When you focus in or out, a piece on the focusing ring itself hits against this screw, limiting how far you can focus in either direction.
If there is too much play in the focusing, try to determine where this coming from. Make sure all the components of the lens are tightly coupled together first and that the play is not coming from somewhere else. If the focusing threads themselves seem to be to blame, you may need to add some new lubricant. I've seen a few lenses where the focusing feels like it suddenly slips. Cleaning out the old lubricant and adding a small amount of new lubricant evenly over the threads sometimes can help with this
Excellent video Matt. However, I am struggling to disassemble the front lenses (I have some haze on the rear side of the front lens). Looks like there is some black glue used to secure the front ring. Any tipp on how to unmount the front lens? Do I need to use glue again when reassembling the lens?
I went a bit further by accident and took out the blades. It's a nightmare to put them back together. I wonder if lens technicians use special tools to deal with those blades and really small holes on the rotating plate when positioning them properly without wasting too much time.
Yes the blades take some time to get used to but with more practice, as long as you take it slow, its not so bad. No clue how these were originally put together but I imagine they had some sort of specialized machine or tool to help with the process
I didn't take apart the diaphragm in this video but I do show the steps in a number of other videos, such as th-cam.com/video/BUQAchLpI8k/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/jgGzCbmxxSc/w-d-xo.html MC Minoltas from this era are generally pretty similar when it comes to the diaphragm so you should be able to apply those steps to this lens as well.
As you probably know, it is important never touch the blades with your fingers. I also recommend slightly marking the blades or taking a photo of them before taking them apart so you can line things up again. This particular lens is nice because you can reassemble the diaphragm outside of the lens and then slide it back in place.
i can't open firstpart after screw up 2 tiny screw,, so tight !!
i just got this lens and the focusing ring is so stiff, so i should do full disassembly right? or can i just reach the helicoid from rear or front maybe?