Thanks William! Guess what? This reel was bought in Australia when I was in uni in the late 1990s. I worked part time at Mossops in Brisbane and bought it staff price 😂. So many great memories from my days Down Under 🦘
Good job!! However, I was always told that that little circlip on the main gear shaft you see after removing the handle nut had a dual purpose: one to keep the shaft in place, but also to act as a handle retention device when and if the handle nut "wandered off." In fact, years and years ago, there wasn't a handle nut retainer mounted on the handle. I would suggest, you look into the ceramic pawls for the level-wind. I've been running them since they came out, never have a problem, they improve the feel greatly. I'd also add the Shimomura Smooth Operator to the handle side plate. On the washer for the 5152 gear, I've always had better luck with leaving the one on the sideplate side of the gear assembly, HMMV. I noticed your running two brake blocks on the backlash pins. As you cast the reel and get used to the feel, you might get to the point where you're be able to run one small or even none! Yoe best work up to it, running one larger brake block instead of the two small, then dropping down to the one small one. I used to run no brake blocks but for the past 15 years or so I ran one small one on my 1500s and only on the reels. a couple of 2500C IARs I used for long casting in beach conditions, I ran two mediums, but those reel were set up to rund "loose and fast." Really good video and content.
Thanks for the great info Charles. I’m gonna use it as a roadmap! You’re right about the brake blocks too. The first few casts after tuning I found that the 2 blocks were limiting my distance too much. I’m running 1 small brake block right now.
@@UrbanBFS: there's no rule that says you have to run both brake blocks the same size, either. I've noticed over the years that some people can tend to get maybe a bit too "diligent" in making sure they're running the correct brake blocks for the conditions. There's also a tendency to make sure the spool tension is always just right. IMO, the best casting and fishing is when the response to the actual conditions is with the thumb, not a mechanical device. It's far easier to adapt on the fly than trying to install little light weight brake blocks when it so windy that you need new ones those brake blocks can blow away! Lastly, the ring on the reel where the brake blocks bear, the actual braking surface, it takes a while, but when you tear down the reel, check this location out, as the blocks wear, the "stuff" accumulates in that ring and if wet, can get "gummy" and slow down the reel. This also can happen on the bigger Ambassadeurs, but the larger ones just kind of power through any stiction.
@@charlesadams1721 as always, great info and an enjoyable read. I too use my thumb as the master controller, but find that using the bare minimum of brake blocks are a great help in "settling things down" during the cast - especially so for ultra light bfs stuff. I take the lightest lure I want to fish and give it a few casts on various brake settings to find the lowest number of brakes that allows good distance but doesn't need "over-finessing" of the thumb, leaning more on the distance side of this equation. I've had too many encounters trying a quick cast to rising fish only to backlash in my excitement - the bigger the rise, the bigger the backlash! Nerves! Many times the brake blocks helped save or at least minimized the catastrophe. Anyway, once that is set, I only vary the spool tension for different weights and rarely find the need to fiddle with the blocks after. Not sure why, but this system of mine works better (for me) with centrifugal brakes than magnetic.
Jim Bob13 to the best of my knowledge, yes it does. However, depending on the model, the cogwheel may not come stock with a circlip and will need to be cut off to remove it.
Don't forget the upgrades include lighter spool - which means way less momentum once they are actually spinning...so will not spin as long with a lighter spool and the same bearings...however, lighter spool and reduced resistance to starting to spin (via upgraded components) will massively improve casting performance with lighter lures.
Thanks Paul Gaskell you nailed it! It’s like bicycle wheels where the heavier wheels will free spin longer than light “racing” wheels due to momentum. However, the lighter wheels start up and accelerate with less effort. Thanks for watching!
![TENGAS DAUN [ULTRALIGHT BFS]: FISHMAN BEAMS SIERRA5.2UL & ABU AMBASSADEUR 1500C](/img/n.gif)
You got all the skills to make a good TH-cam channel!
I love my 1500c I have been using it since I was a teenager and I am 56 now and I’ll use it until I die.
john cline I know what you mean! My 1500 is the only reel I feel guilt-free spending on upgrades 😂
I've just watched this and the first vid of yours on the 1500 Great stuff and thank you for doing them on my all time favourite reel 🇦🇺👍🎣❤️
Thanks William! Guess what? This reel was bought in Australia when I was in uni in the late 1990s. I worked part time at Mossops in Brisbane and bought it staff price 😂. So many great memories from my days Down Under 🦘
Missing the c-clip on the driveshaft
Why he took the handle off?
Good job!!
However, I was always told that that little circlip on the main gear shaft you see after removing the handle nut had a dual purpose: one to keep the shaft in place, but also to act as a handle retention device when and if the handle nut "wandered off." In fact, years and years ago, there wasn't a handle nut retainer mounted on the handle.
I would suggest, you look into the ceramic pawls for the level-wind. I've been running them since they came out, never have a problem, they improve the feel greatly.
I'd also add the Shimomura Smooth Operator to the handle side plate.
On the washer for the 5152 gear, I've always had better luck with leaving the one on the sideplate side of the gear assembly, HMMV.
I noticed your running two brake blocks on the backlash pins. As you cast the reel and get used to the feel, you might get to the point where you're be able to run one small or even none!
Yoe best work up to it, running one larger brake block instead of the two small, then dropping down to the one small one. I used to run no brake blocks but for the past 15 years or so I ran one small one on my 1500s and only on the reels. a couple of 2500C IARs I used for long casting in beach conditions, I ran two mediums, but those reel were set up to rund "loose and fast."
Really good video and content.
Thanks for the great info Charles. I’m gonna use it as a roadmap!
You’re right about the brake blocks too. The first few casts after tuning I found that the 2 blocks were limiting my distance too much. I’m running 1 small brake block right now.
@@UrbanBFS: there's no rule that says you have to run both brake blocks the same size, either. I've noticed over the years that some people can tend to get maybe a bit too "diligent" in making sure they're running the correct brake blocks for the conditions. There's also a tendency to make sure the spool tension is always just right. IMO, the best casting and fishing is when the response to the actual conditions is with the thumb, not a mechanical device. It's far easier to adapt on the fly than trying to install little light weight brake blocks when it so windy that you need new ones those brake blocks can blow away!
Lastly, the ring on the reel where the brake blocks bear, the actual braking surface, it takes a while, but when you tear down the reel, check this location out, as the blocks wear, the "stuff" accumulates in that ring and if wet, can get "gummy" and slow down the reel. This also can happen on the bigger Ambassadeurs, but the larger ones just kind of power through any stiction.
@@charlesadams1721 as always, great info and an enjoyable read. I too use my thumb as the master controller, but find that using the bare minimum of brake blocks are a great help in "settling things down" during the cast - especially so for ultra light bfs stuff.
I take the lightest lure I want to fish and give it a few casts on various brake settings to find the lowest number of brakes that allows good distance but doesn't need "over-finessing" of the thumb, leaning more on the distance side of this equation.
I've had too many encounters trying a quick cast to rising fish only to backlash in my excitement - the bigger the rise, the bigger the backlash! Nerves! Many times the brake blocks helped save or at least minimized the catastrophe.
Anyway, once that is set, I only vary the spool tension for different weights and rarely find the need to fiddle with the blocks after. Not sure why, but this system of mine works better (for me) with centrifugal brakes than magnetic.
Charles Adams I've ALLWAYS used two or none for balance of the spool shaft
Very nice work! I’m thinking of super tuning a 5000 but I’ve never done it before.
Thanks for watching! Sadly i dont have a 5000 available for modding. But if im not wrong, the steps are pretty similar :)
the link does not show the parts for the new bearings.....
Hey! hmm, which link were you referring to?
Does this kit work on the original reels with the one arm handle?
Jim Bob13 to the best of my knowledge, yes it does. However, depending on the model, the cogwheel may not come stock with a circlip and will need to be cut off to remove it.
Good job! Like it..👍
thank you!
Japnese custom parts is available in your country ?
nope. but i get mine online at www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp. you'll need to check if they ship to your area!
A lot of wasted time. The upgrades really didn't improve the performance that much.
Don't forget the upgrades include lighter spool - which means way less momentum once they are actually spinning...so will not spin as long with a lighter spool and the same bearings...however, lighter spool and reduced resistance to starting to spin (via upgraded components) will massively improve casting performance with lighter lures.
Thanks Paul Gaskell you nailed it! It’s like bicycle wheels where the heavier wheels will free spin longer than light “racing” wheels due to momentum. However, the lighter wheels start up and accelerate with less effort. Thanks for watching!