Good advice on how to setup your brackets. A lot of the time I just never even include the overexposed bracket when I merge my photos. Thanks for sharing Jim.
Thanks and that will vary by camera, so it's best to Google yours. But for my Sony, I set up Auto Exposure Bracketing in one of the menus, turn it on in my Drive Mode selector, and then I use the Exposure Compensation dial to pick the -5 starting point. It's all really quick.
Again, another excellent walkthru (tho a little finicky in some of the adjustments) of your work flow. Thanks for the detailed explanation, especially of the use of midtone luminosity masking. HOWEVER - in the thumbnail for the video, I'm seeing significant haloing in the pic of the lone scraggly tree with the blue/purple sky background. ?Your comments/suggestions?
Hi there and not sure what you mean by finicky in some of the adjustments? Re: the tree, yes for my thumbnails I tend to boost contrast a little more than normal to make them stand out a little more. But that's just for the thumbnail. Thanks.
@@JimNix Here, I mean a lot of minor adjustments that are hard to see on TH-cam; perhaps the changes are more apparent on your computer (or monitor) in real time.
I want an option that when I "export (In NEO or any non-destructive editor), it keeps the date, time, exif data from the original image. It seems such a problem to me it makes it like a NEW IMAGE... but it isn't. Am I the only one that HATES this problem? How are you supposed to deal with say editing a 5 year old image and it wants to try saying this is a new image? Thanks!
Good advice on how to setup your brackets. A lot of the time I just never even include the overexposed bracket when I merge my photos. Thanks for sharing Jim.
thanks Ron and if I am making a full HDR I will use all 3 images but my brightest is usually a 0 or -1 exposure so it works for me
Great video as always. How do you set up the camera to take a-5,-3 and a-1 automatically with the bracket feature in camera
Thanks and that will vary by camera, so it's best to Google yours. But for my Sony, I set up Auto Exposure Bracketing in one of the menus, turn it on in my Drive Mode selector, and then I use the Exposure Compensation dial to pick the -5 starting point. It's all really quick.
Thanks
Again, another excellent walkthru (tho a little finicky in some of the adjustments) of your work flow. Thanks for the detailed explanation, especially of the use of midtone luminosity masking.
HOWEVER - in the thumbnail for the video, I'm seeing significant haloing in the pic of the lone scraggly tree with the blue/purple sky background.
?Your comments/suggestions?
Hi there and not sure what you mean by finicky in some of the adjustments? Re: the tree, yes for my thumbnails I tend to boost contrast a little more than normal to make them stand out a little more. But that's just for the thumbnail. Thanks.
@@JimNix Here, I mean a lot of minor adjustments that are hard to see on TH-cam; perhaps the changes are more apparent on your computer (or monitor) in real time.
@@billzigrang7005 ah right, makes sense and yes sometimes the smaller, more subtle adjustments are difficult to see on video
Jim like your results. Is Luminar Neo nondestructive.?
Yes you can always reset any adjustment back to the base raw file with no impact on it. Thanks.
I want an option that when I "export (In NEO or any non-destructive editor), it keeps the date, time, exif data from the original image. It seems such a problem to me it makes it like a NEW IMAGE... but it isn't. Am I the only one that HATES this problem? How are you supposed to deal with say editing a 5 year old image and it wants to try saying this is a new image? Thanks!
Hmm, I do believe there will be adjustments to the Catalog in Luminar at some point, so perhaps they will address this then. Otherwise I am not sure.
I haven’t see you for a while
I'm still here! 😀Thanks for watching.