The Howdens continuous 2.4m bracket is a game changer its about £7 a length but holes every 50mm so you can always pick up the studwork wherever it is . Just notch out unit so they go straighf back to wall . I know how you feel though when you put a load of prep work in just for someone to change plans and it count for nothing just takes all energy and enthusiasm away and as much as you want to forget about it it just niggles away at you all thr way through the job
Hi David🖐You're the 2nd person to recommend the continuous fixing rail👊so I'm definitely going to consider this if this happens again👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Dell, what a shock 🫨 .The tall carpenter, kitchen fitter extrodinar. Problems galore . Using a step ladder. Will wonders never cease.😂🎉 Glad you're back great show..
What I've done in the past on stud walls is cut a 100mm strip out of the plaster board at the height of the brackets and replaced it with 12mm plywood with 4 x 2 noggins glued and screwed to the back of it then glue and screw the plywood to the studs so you have about 56mm to fix the brackets to anywhere a long the length.
Good to see you back Del, another kitchen job 👍 Finally got round to doing my own at the tenth time (year!! 😂) of asking a couple of years back. The old wall units were fastened to the plasterboard with standard red plugs. How they had stayed up so long I’ll never know. I suddenly became a lot more confident in the strength of the toggle fittings, as you were using!
Hi Del, the frustration of being a chippy. 🤨 If I fitted more kitchens I’d definitely have a few pieces of ply for appliance spaces. Great idea to keep it all square. 👊🏻🚜🚜🚜😆
Great to hear you back again Del , big kitchen looking good, that's part of been a carpenter, sorting out someone else's problem 🫣 no problemo to Del boy , excellent 😂🇮🇪☘️👋🤓
Hi Del, great way of getting over that mate. I don’t trust them toggle fixings either if I’m honest. Like you said a unit full plates/glasses can be seriously heavy. What I’ve done in the past is cut out the plasterboard and replace it with a stick of ply but it’s a messy old process. I like your solution more. You can get self adhesive colour match cover caps for screws hole mate, they work a treat. 🍻
Hi Lewis👊Sounds like we're on the same wavelength bud, and I had seen those colour matched 'stickers' but getting the tight wad builder to pay for them is another issue all together🤔30k soon mate🤞
Hi Del hope you're well, I had a similar issue on a kitchen a few weeks ago I got a continuous 2.4m wall bracket, loads of screw holes in it to pick up the studs all I had to do was notch each carcass over the bracket 👍
Hi Del, with kitchen fitting you’ve definitely got to have your wits about you, I’ve had batches of oak painted doors come out at carcass width so 600 door for a 600 unit panels not square and bugger all help from suppliers other than send a tin of paint out
I've fitted magnet kitchens for years in my experience I've hung rows and rows of wall units on platerboard fixings and by the time they are all hung and fixed together they are surprisingly stong as it sort of form one solid block, but always good practice to get at least to or three solid fixings too
it never rains but it pours....its good to see the issues that can arise on site...sometimes you watch vlogs and nothing ever goes haywire all seems to just fit perfect first time you never see any issues or mistakes made...nice one
Hi Arthur🖐You're quite right, and I've always tried to stay honest with my videos, which means, occasionally, there is problems to sort out👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
hello dell have not seen you in a while i love the way you have got over that major fixing problem of the wall units .....as i say if anyone can get over the problem is dell well done mate ...looking forward to the next episode
Hi Del. I see someone in the comments does similar to what I used to do. Cut out a strip of gyproc and let in a length of ply. The other way I did them was a length of 2x1 on the wall and hang them on that. The old units back then didn't have solid back.both hook blocks were side mounted. Just a bit of notching. Agree with you wouldn't rely on just cavity fixings.
As a 60 yo pro kit fit, could l give you a tip? Hang your corner wall cabinet doors, see how they line up and work away from them. The hinges sag if you are hanging one door from another, and that could cause you all sorts of problems.The toggle fixing are fine for what you are doing.
Hi there🖐I've been advised to start with the corner wall unit by other guys well, but I always worry that you need to know your EXACT high/low point in the floor, and then set your wall unit hight from that. As I explained in the previous video, I make sure everything is set out from the corner wall unit which usually works out for me👍Appreciate your comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Del, I've used cabinet hanging rails on stud wall, much better than those short hanging brackets, a 2mtr hanging rail will support 150kg & you fix into every stud. Other way is cut out strip of plasterboard & set in length of ply to fix cabinets to. Old chippy I worked with use to notch studs to take 4x1, even 6x1 then plasterboard over, gave solid fixing for cabinets,etc.
Hi Stuart🖐What's come from this video, is me discovering these hanging rails👊and I will be buying some, just in case, for the next one👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
The integrated fridges definitely as you say needs a space for the fridge doors to open, I had a 25mm infill and I'm very lucky that I can get all the fridge drawers out, it's tight. I think a 50-75mm is recommended.😃👍
The weak points are much less once all fastened together, but you're always on the side of caution, I've a cupboard thats loaded with crockery 😂 I've no idea how its attached, but it's still up 😂 👍
Just done a kitchen in a old cottage one wall 50mm out of upright and over 3 meters 120 mm out and low ceiling with wall units and extractor nightmare of a job but looks good now 👌 so no how you feel Dell
Great job. Similar job I have to do. Got some half depth base units (3) 400 x 400 to fit to inside of garage wall plus others. Trying to figure if I'd be better hanging them on a continuous hanging rail to make sure they are all level of fix them as in the video each cabinet with 2 single brackets.
No matter how thorough you are with your planning and thinking ahead , one small change can balls it all up . I could see that was a fake smile there Del 🙂↔️😤😤🤬. We just have to get on with mate , hope you’re well matey 🧱👍🏼
Good watch del I’m starting my first kitchen install for Wren Nxt Monday so starting supplementary works first plastering electrics etc then install 17th Love doing kitchens 👍
Del….food for thought on the next one, rip down some osb for pattress with 2x1 set back in the stud. Will get rid of the headaches of flip flopping customers and builders 😂
Hi there🖐Great suggestion 👍 and I would love to do this, but my builders arenot very good with supplying my with anything other than a pile of 3x2's for the studwork😬so noggins it is😶Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
The linear wall bracket was designed for issues like this mate. Hafele make them amongst others. Ironmongery direct sell them. You just need to notch the wall unit to allow the unit to hook on.
Hi Chris🖐Yes, it seem the main thing I will take from posting this video is that there is a perfect solution for the problem I faced in the form of the continuous wall bracket you and a few others have mentioned👍Appreciate your comment😎Cheers Del
Hi there🖐Yes, that would have been an option, but I tend to stick to the drawings just in case the customer doesn't like it👍Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Jonathan🖐They usually are around 2050mm to the noggin center from the floor👍 (top of wall unit from floor is 2120 and fixing line for the wall brackets is around 60mm down from that) Cheers Del
O heck Del .deffintly not good when the plans change after you have first fixed it the the first plan 😯😯😯😯 Typical builders. At least you managed to sort things out. Those cavity fixings are good used them a lot 👍👍👍👍
My way of dealing with a lack of noggins is to cut out say a hundred mm wide strip of plasterboard along the line of the fixing brackets, then screw in a line of noggins, and refix the plasterboard. It's all hidden, so no need to be too fancy with the reinstatement.
That's a great way of doing it Trevor👍and I probably would have done that, but the builder didn't want me to spend the extra time and insisted on just keeping his fingers crossed that hollow wall fixings would do😵💫Cheers Del
Hi Del, brilliant job so far. Not very often i see you on a ladder ha. I wonder if its worth the effort to notch the studs for 18mm plywood. Say you rip a full sheet in two so you have 2 feet of fixing from the ceiling?
Hi Del, does seem your builder left you a right headache this time, but I was wondering as you had pulled the base units off the wall by 10mm because of the pipe why did not have to pull the wall units on the studwall by 10mm also ? Have a good bank holiday and I'll look forward to part 3
Hi Kevin🖐I can't remember if I covered it in the earlier video, but as the base unit corner post was not pre-formed, it meant that I could reduce it by 10mm so that the wall units lined up perfectly👍Like you say though, if the corner post WAS a pre-formed one, I would have packed the wall until run off by 10mm👊Great comment and thanks for watching bud😎
Hi there🖐Yes, and occasional I have been able to hide the odd screw at shelf level👍(and then hope the customer doesn't alter the height later😬). Cheers Del
Hi there🖐I'm having problems with arthritis pain in many of my joints, which has meant I'm not working as much, and consequently not doing so many videos😬I've got a lot of footage of the last kitchen I did, and will be knocking a couple videos out on that soon🤞Thanks for asking and I hope you are well🤩Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter oh nasty stuff then, how age creeps up and bites fast, I’m not looking forward to it but somethings got to give after the years of battering ourselves for a bit of coin😬 fingers crossed all gets better for you soon mate 👍🏻 - Rhys
Great idea👍but the French cleat doesn't really allow for any adjustment, especially if the wall is slightly out of plumb and you need to pack the back out a little😶Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
![The Chickens From 40 Years Ago Have Come Home to Roost… [Carpenter’s Home Renovation Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3wldNfartP8/mqdefault.jpg)
The Howdens continuous 2.4m bracket is a game changer its about £7 a length but holes every 50mm so you can always pick up the studwork wherever it is . Just notch out unit so they go straighf back to wall . I know how you feel though when you put a load of prep work in just for someone to change plans and it count for nothing just takes all energy and enthusiasm away and as much as you want to forget about it it just niggles away at you all thr way through the job
Hi David🖐You're the 2nd person to recommend the continuous fixing rail👊so I'm definitely going to consider this if this happens again👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Buzzing mate didn’t know Howdens did these
@@stuartbarratt9820 yes mate didn't know till a few years ago will try and find a code later on 👍
RKC0135 that's the code 👍
@@davidtuffin6993 that be great pal thanks again stu
Great job👌👋👍
Thanks for watching John😎Cheers Del
Hi Dell, what a shock 🫨 .The tall carpenter, kitchen fitter extrodinar. Problems galore . Using a step ladder. Will wonders never cease.😂🎉 Glad you're back great show..
What's it coming to Tim, when I'm not tall enough to do a job😆Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Well done, everything seems complicated nowadays, not a job for beginners, excellent work as always. You're a very clever man
Hi Andrew🖐Thankyou for you great comment🤗and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
What I've done in the past on stud walls is cut a 100mm strip out of the plaster board at the height of the brackets and replaced it with 12mm plywood with 4 x 2 noggins glued and screwed to the back of it then glue and screw the plywood to the studs so you have about 56mm to fix the brackets to anywhere a long the length.
Love this solution Anthony👍Definitely gives lots of meat for fixings💪Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Good to see you back Del, another kitchen job 👍
Finally got round to doing my own at the tenth time (year!! 😂) of asking a couple of years back. The old wall units were fastened to the plasterboard with standard red plugs. How they had stayed up so long I’ll never know. I suddenly became a lot more confident in the strength of the toggle fittings, as you were using!
That's amazing that the old units stayed up just on red plugs🤯I guess the expanding metal ones are pretty strong💪Cheers Del
Hi Del, the frustration of being a chippy. 🤨
If I fitted more kitchens I’d definitely have a few pieces of ply for appliance spaces. Great idea to keep it all square.
👊🏻🚜🚜🚜😆
Hi Dan🖐Hope you're well bud🤞We all moan, but we love it really🤪Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter all good thanks Del , hope you too. 🙌
Great to hear you back again Del , big kitchen looking good, that's part of been a carpenter, sorting out someone else's problem 🫣 no problemo to Del boy , excellent 😂🇮🇪☘️👋🤓
Always appreciate your comments John🤩Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter 👍
Hi Del, great way of getting over that mate. I don’t trust them toggle fixings either if I’m honest. Like you said a unit full plates/glasses can be seriously heavy. What I’ve done in the past is cut out the plasterboard and replace it with a stick of ply but it’s a messy old process. I like your solution more. You can get self adhesive colour match cover caps for screws hole mate, they work a treat. 🍻
Hi Lewis👊Sounds like we're on the same wavelength bud, and I had seen those colour matched 'stickers' but getting the tight wad builder to pay for them is another issue all together🤔30k soon mate🤞
Hi Del hope you're well, I had a similar issue on a kitchen a few weeks ago I got a continuous 2.4m wall bracket, loads of screw holes in it to pick up the studs all I had to do was notch each carcass over the bracket 👍
Where you get track from
Pal???
x2🤔
Sounds really interesting Andrew👍I've not seen that before😶Where do you get them from🤔Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter only ones I can find online are mega expensive and look flimsy as hell maybe wrong @andrewplatt
Hi Del, with kitchen fitting you’ve definitely got to have your wits about you, I’ve had batches of oak painted doors come out at carcass width so 600 door for a 600 unit panels not square and bugger all help from suppliers other than send a tin of paint out
I've fitted magnet kitchens for years in my experience I've hung rows and rows of wall units on platerboard fixings and by the time they are all hung and fixed together they are surprisingly stong as it sort of form one solid block, but always good practice to get at least to or three solid fixings too
Hi there🖐Thanks for your comment🤗and it's reassuring to know these type of fixings are probably stronger than we might think 🤔 Cheers Del
it never rains but it pours....its good to see the issues that can arise on site...sometimes you watch vlogs and nothing ever goes haywire all seems to just fit perfect first time you never see any issues or mistakes made...nice one
Hi Arthur🖐You're quite right, and I've always tried to stay honest with my videos, which means, occasionally, there is problems to sort out👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
hello dell have not seen you in a while i love the way you have got over that major fixing problem of the wall units .....as i say if anyone can get over the problem is dell well done mate ...looking forward to the next episode
Hi Stevie🖐Yeah, I've been busy with health issues so been a bit quiet with the videos😬Appreciate your comment bud and thanks for watching 😎
Hi Del. I see someone in the comments does similar to what I used to do. Cut out a strip of gyproc and let in a length of ply. The other way I did them was a length of 2x1 on the wall and hang them on that. The old units back then didn't have solid back.both hook blocks were side mounted. Just a bit of notching. Agree with you wouldn't rely on just cavity fixings.
Hi there🖐Yes, yours is a great solution and would work perfectly in this situation👍Appreciate your comment bud and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
As a 60 yo pro kit fit, could l give you a tip? Hang your corner wall cabinet doors, see how they line up and work away from them.
The hinges sag if you are hanging one door from another, and that could cause you all sorts of problems.The toggle fixing are fine for what you are doing.
Hi there🖐I've been advised to start with the corner wall unit by other guys well, but I always worry that you need to know your EXACT high/low point in the floor, and then set your wall unit hight from that. As I explained in the previous video, I make sure everything is set out from the corner wall unit which usually works out for me👍Appreciate your comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Great work Del, that jobs been a right pain but we have got there.
Just got get paid for it now Kev😶
@@thetallcarpenter what's that thing called being paid🤔 thought we worked for the love of it.
@@Kfiskplumbing 🤔
Hi Del, next time give these a go ( bullfix universal heavy duty p/b fixings ) Ive used them on new builds and they do work.
Hi Jim🖐I'll check them out👍Cheers
Del, I've used cabinet hanging rails on stud wall, much better than those short hanging brackets, a 2mtr hanging rail will support 150kg & you fix into every stud. Other way is cut out strip of plasterboard & set in length of ply to fix cabinets to. Old chippy I worked with use to notch studs to take 4x1, even 6x1 then plasterboard over, gave solid fixing for cabinets,etc.
Hi Stuart🖐What's come from this video, is me discovering these hanging rails👊and I will be buying some, just in case, for the next one👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I use my prefered brand Timco Advanced Coach Screw ,they have a flange head to fit hanging rail, M6 size.
The integrated fridges definitely as you say needs a space for the fridge doors to open, I had a 25mm infill and I'm very lucky that I can get all the fridge drawers out, it's tight. I think a 50-75mm is recommended.😃👍
You're quite right, and I was able to get the drawes out in the end👍(just). Thanks for watching 😎
Great video Del! !!!! thank you
Thanks for watching Michael 😎
The weak points are much less once all fastened together, but you're always on the side of caution, I've a cupboard thats loaded with crockery 😂 I've no idea how its attached, but it's still up 😂 👍
The 'force' must be strong with you wall cupboard fixings Mark😆Cheers Del
Just done a kitchen in a old cottage one wall 50mm out of upright and over 3 meters 120 mm out and low ceiling with wall units and extractor nightmare of a job but looks good now 👌 so no how you feel Dell
I feel lucky bud😆(I won't complain anymore😉) Cheers Del
Great job. Similar job I have to do. Got some half depth base units (3) 400 x 400 to fit to inside of garage wall plus others. Trying to figure if I'd be better hanging them on a continuous hanging rail to make sure they are all level of fix them as in the video each cabinet with 2 single brackets.
I think the continuous fixing rail sounds like the best option there👊Cheers Del
No matter how thorough you are with your planning and thinking ahead , one small change can balls it all up .
I could see that was a fake smile there Del 🙂↔️😤😤🤬.
We just have to get on with mate , hope you’re well matey 🧱👍🏼
Hi Steve🖐All well down here mate, and I did enjoy watching you and Alex on SB with Roger🤩
Good watch del
I’m starting my first kitchen install for Wren Nxt Monday so starting supplementary works first plastering electrics etc then install 17th
Love doing kitchens 👍
Good luck getting paid from Wren…100% something will be missing on delivery day and the customer will not sign off until its complete
@@The_Council_Basher well it will be complete when I’ve finished so it will be signed off before I leave the job
Hi Brian🖐It always helps when doing a job, it you enjoy it🤩All the best with your kitchen👍Cheers
Del….food for thought on the next one, rip down some osb for pattress with 2x1 set back in the stud. Will get rid of the headaches of flip flopping customers and builders 😂
Hi there🖐Great suggestion 👍 and I would love to do this, but my builders arenot very good with supplying my with anything other than a pile of 3x2's for the studwork😬so noggins it is😶Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
The linear wall bracket was designed for issues like this mate. Hafele make them amongst others. Ironmongery direct sell them. You just need to notch the wall unit to allow the unit to hook on.
Hi Chris🖐Yes, it seem the main thing I will take from posting this video is that there is a perfect solution for the problem I faced in the form of the continuous wall bracket you and a few others have mentioned👍Appreciate your comment😎Cheers Del
Nice one Del. 🚴👍
Cheers Barry🤩
Hi Del. You were worried about the fridge door opening enough. Did you consider putting the fridge in between the two tall cupboards?
Hi there🖐Yes, that would have been an option, but I tend to stick to the drawings just in case the customer doesn't like it👍Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Del, what height did you put the original noggins in for the ‘standard’ height units when you put in the stud wall?
Hi Jonathan🖐They usually are around 2050mm to the noggin center from the floor👍 (top of wall unit from floor is 2120 and fixing line for the wall brackets is around 60mm down from that) Cheers Del
I would like to have seen you measure and fit the brackets for the units to go on then adjust to plumb
Hi Anthony🖐I have covered this in previous videos, but will talk about next time I'm doing a kitchen👍Cheers Del
O heck Del .deffintly not good when the plans change after you have first fixed it the the first plan 😯😯😯😯
Typical builders.
At least you managed to sort things out.
Those cavity fixings are good used them a lot 👍👍👍👍
Hi John🖐I suppose is part of the job bud🤔and keeps us on our toes I guess😆Cheers Del
My way of dealing with a lack of noggins is to cut out say a hundred mm wide strip of plasterboard along the line of the fixing brackets, then screw in a line of noggins, and refix the plasterboard. It's all hidden, so no need to be too fancy with the reinstatement.
That's a great way of doing it Trevor👍and I probably would have done that, but the builder didn't want me to spend the extra time and insisted on just keeping his fingers crossed that hollow wall fixings would do😵💫Cheers Del
👍👍👍. Thanks Del
My pleasure Pete🤩
Hi Del, brilliant job so far. Not very often i see you on a ladder ha.
I wonder if its worth the effort to notch the studs for 18mm plywood.
Say you rip a full sheet in two so you have 2 feet of fixing from the ceiling?
Hi Dan🖐That would be an awesome fixing, unfortunately the builder on supplies 3x2 CLS so it might make the wall a bit weak😬Thanks for watching 😎
great video del
Thank Neil🤩
Glad the painter saved 43 seconds not painting the middle of that wall
😂😂😂 So true
😂
That's how tight the builder is🤪Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Do you ever use the space plugs Del, glued onto the carcass?
Hi there🖐I've used them occasionally when the kitchen company supplied them👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers
Thanks del 👍
No worries Paddy🤩Thanks for watching 😎
Hi Del, does seem your builder left you a right headache this time, but I was wondering as you had pulled the base units off the wall by 10mm because of the pipe why did not have to pull the wall units on the studwall by 10mm also ? Have a good bank holiday and I'll look forward to part 3
Hi Kevin🖐I can't remember if I covered it in the earlier video, but as the base unit corner post was not pre-formed, it meant that I could reduce it by 10mm so that the wall units lined up perfectly👍Like you say though, if the corner post WAS a pre-formed one, I would have packed the wall until run off by 10mm👊Great comment and thanks for watching bud😎
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks Del 👍👍
👍
Cheers Adrian😎
Set your screws so they land behind the top shelves, sometimes we get lucky...
Hi there🖐Yes, and occasional I have been able to hide the odd screw at shelf level👍(and then hope the customer doesn't alter the height later😬). Cheers Del
use the gap in the back. Batten out the wall. Spread the load.
That's another great option👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
How are you del? Haven’t seen much from you recently mate hope all is well👍🏻
Hi there🖐I'm having problems with arthritis pain in many of my joints, which has meant I'm not working as much, and consequently not doing so many videos😬I've got a lot of footage of the last kitchen I did, and will be knocking a couple videos out on that soon🤞Thanks for asking and I hope you are well🤩Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter oh nasty stuff then, how age creeps up and bites fast, I’m not looking forward to it but somethings got to give after the years of battering ourselves for a bit of coin😬 fingers crossed all gets better for you soon mate 👍🏻 - Rhys
@@Lyonscarpentry Yeah, getting is a bitch😵💫Thanks for your comment bud 👍
@@Lyonscarpentry Yeah, getting is a bitch😵💫Thanks for your comment bud 👍
You could have put a French cleat on the wall and on the back panel of the wall unit made from a piece of batten ,problem solved and no screws needed.
Great idea, I'm stealing that.👍🙂
Great idea👍but the French cleat doesn't really allow for any adjustment, especially if the wall is slightly out of plumb and you need to pack the back out a little😶Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
Glad I’m not the spark on that one, I’d be well annoyed 😂
Hi there🖐Yes, the poor old sparky is ever suffering😲Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Nice to see you back Del. I did feel your pain
Great to have you watching Mark🤩Cheers
Yeah hard fixing, mate Builder shouldn’t of changed it. 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Builders eh Jimmy😆Cheers Del
👊🫡
Cheers Richard😎
the person that recommended those toggle fixings is not a mate do not use this shite
Hi Andy🖐I guess everyone speaks as they find🤔and as I mentioned in the video, I still use a secondary fixing method👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
👍
Thanks Paddy👊