Been flying model planes since 1959. Started with C/L, plastic, flat wood, to build up balsa. 1976 started with radio, 1/2 A to .60 sized engines, from 2 channel to 6. Ridge Rut with a TD .049 and 2 channels, fly all afternoon burn a Quart of fuel.
Greetings from west central Pennsylvania, another great video Larry and I am a big fan of mylar covering underneath tissue, silk, etc. I use glue stick as you did and one tip is lightly mist water on to the contact side of the mylar before applying to balsa structure and this makes it even easier to position for a wrinkle free finish before glue stick sets up. Keep up the great work.DaveW
Thanks Dave! In all these oldtimers, I'm just using pure mylar, no tissue under them, seems to work nice and I avoid having to dope the wings/tail/rudder (fuselage is doped polyspan light).
Thanks for the Mylar covering tutorial. I never would have thought to use a glue stick to adhere it to the framework. I've always gone the thinned Sig Stix-It route but my next covering job will be with the glue stick.
You're welcome, this is the only video where I actually show the covering process, in response to a number of viewers requesting mylar videos, I was hesitant because it's pretty primitive! I've been using Uhu for over 10 years and for the most part it works well for sticking the mylar to the balsa, I've had some really nice covering jobs with it.
Could you do a tissue on Mylar covering video? I always get wrinkles. Great improvements on the kit. Amazing performance despite the weight of the radio gear.
Yes, the Ritz has potential! I don't do tissue on Mylar for several reasons 1) I use Mylar to avoid having to dope the flying surfaces, but putting tissue on Mylar would require doping and so kill that advantage and 2) I don't see the point, if I need strength then I use 1/3 mil mylar, which is practically puncture proof - been flying several planes for years without damage, and 3) I've heard that tissue on Mylar still reacts to high humidity, and that's one of the reasons I stopped using tissue in the first place - it loosens even with 4 coats of dope! So, I'm not a fan of tissue on Mylar, though I know that some people would disagree with this (sorry!).
Thank you for your awesome videos. I know taking the time to provide this content takes time away from the more enjoyable aspects of your hobby but it is so helpful to those of us that are learning and trying to catch up. I have a question that I haven’t seen you address. What type of paint do you use to paint the Mylar? Anything we should know about painting Mylar that you would like to pass on? Thanks again for your very original content.
Thank you. I do mention in some videos that I use 'just for flowers' spray paint, check out the Pacific Ace video. In the build videos, I always mention the color that I used, some are more translucent than others!
Hey bud im building a wisp after seeing your vid on one. Wings are a bit flexi before covering. After applying tissue, shrinking and easy dope do you thing it will reduce the flex or should i add strip thin balsa right across leading and trailing edge to reduce flex?
@@sablatnic8030 Not surprising - I'd guess that his name is Gerald, but that he goes by Jerry, however some people aren't sure, so they go with Gerry. I'm going with Jerry since that's what's on the plan (though it's probably short for Gerald)!
DeWitt Clinton Park, been flying there for over a decade. You can see a good aerial shot of the park in my "Modified Bob white wakefield with camera" video.
Ah you noticed. I agree, the mike on my old camera was better, more natural sounding, but the mike on my 'newer' (already more than a few years old!) camera is not as good, I also didn't like it, it sounds more muted, but the video is better so I'm using it anyway, sorry about that!
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Been flying model planes since 1959. Started with C/L, plastic, flat wood, to build up balsa. 1976 started with radio, 1/2 A to .60 sized engines, from 2 channel to 6. Ridge Rut with a TD .049 and 2 channels, fly all afternoon burn a Quart of fuel.
I enjoy seeing you doing videos again.
Greetings from west central Pennsylvania, another great video Larry and I am a big fan of mylar covering underneath tissue, silk, etc. I use glue stick as you did and one tip is lightly mist water on to the contact side of the mylar before applying to balsa structure and this makes it even easier to position for a wrinkle free finish before glue stick sets up. Keep up the great work.DaveW
Thanks Dave! In all these oldtimers, I'm just using pure mylar, no tissue under them, seems to work nice and I avoid having to dope the wings/tail/rudder (fuselage is doped polyspan light).
This was fun! Thanks for the Mylar tips. I'm pleased to see you posting again regularly.
That 500 wind launch was incredibly sketchy! 😀
@@archivist17 I think the motor bunched up in the front and killed the prop for a moment.
Great video as usual. Thank you for sharing
Loved the video! Some day I have to build a rubber powered plane again. Nice to see you back in action!
Nice to be doing some outdoor again! I have another video or two in the works.
I've been waiting to see this video .
Your planes are beautiful .
I think I'm gonna have to build one of the those in the future. Bucket list is getting big. 😁 ETA: I now have a kit for one. So, near future.
Thanks for the Mylar covering tutorial. I never would have thought to use a glue stick to adhere it to the framework. I've always gone the thinned Sig Stix-It route but my next covering job will be with the glue stick.
You're welcome, this is the only video where I actually show the covering process, in response to a number of viewers requesting mylar videos, I was hesitant because it's pretty primitive! I've been using Uhu for over 10 years and for the most part it works well for sticking the mylar to the balsa, I've had some really nice covering jobs with it.
Like the video,,I have this same kit and have been waiting for winter too build it, saved this video for the great information CONTENT, 🛩🛩🤗
Could you do a tissue on Mylar covering video? I always get wrinkles. Great improvements on the kit. Amazing performance despite the weight of the radio gear.
Yes, the Ritz has potential! I don't do tissue on Mylar for several reasons 1) I use Mylar to avoid having to dope the flying surfaces, but putting tissue on Mylar would require doping and so kill that advantage and 2) I don't see the point, if I need strength then I use 1/3 mil mylar, which is practically puncture proof - been flying several planes for years without damage, and 3) I've heard that tissue on Mylar still reacts to high humidity, and that's one of the reasons I stopped using tissue in the first place - it loosens even with 4 coats of dope! So, I'm not a fan of tissue on Mylar, though I know that some people would disagree with this (sorry!).
Very nice stuff, I just wanted to say that I've seen some 5 min epoxies that become brittle and fail within a year.
Yes, I had that happen with the Gorilla epoxy, however Devcon seems to be very good and I've never had a problem with it.
Thanks!
Thank You for the Mylar covering method! How do You paint on Mylar?
I use 'just for flowers' spray paint, two light coats, check my Pacific Ace video.
Thank you for your awesome videos. I know taking the time to provide this content takes time away from the more enjoyable aspects of your hobby but it is so helpful to those of us that are learning and trying to catch up.
I have a question that I haven’t seen you address. What type of paint do you use to paint the Mylar? Anything we should know about painting Mylar that you would like to pass on?
Thanks again for your very original content.
Thank you. I do mention in some videos that I use 'just for flowers' spray paint, check out the Pacific Ace video. In the build videos, I always mention the color that I used, some are more translucent than others!
Thanks! I did hear “just for flowers” but thought that was part of the color name and not the product name.
Hey bud im building a wisp after seeing your vid on one.
Wings are a bit flexi before covering. After applying tissue, shrinking and easy dope do you thing it will reduce the flex or should i add strip thin balsa right across leading and trailing edge to reduce flex?
Hard to say without seeing it, but tissue and dope should stiffen it up a bit so I'd guess you're OK.
👌👍👌
Constructed by Gerald Ritz, or named in honor of him?
Designed by Jerry Ritz - do a search on outerzone.co.uk for Ritz and you'll find another design - a tractor - with the same shaped wing by Jerry.
@@domoremath Thanks!
@@domoremath Found it - somewhat confusing that Jerry Ritz, Gerry Ritz and Gerald Ritz is the same person.
@@sablatnic8030 Not surprising - I'd guess that his name is Gerald, but that he goes by Jerry, however some people aren't sure, so they go with Gerry. I'm going with Jerry since that's what's on the plan (though it's probably short for Gerald)!
What park are you flying in?
DeWitt Clinton Park, been flying there for over a decade. You can see a good aerial shot of the park in my "Modified Bob white wakefield with camera" video.
Your mic has changed! Its diff bud
Ah you noticed. I agree, the mike on my old camera was better, more natural sounding, but the mike on my 'newer' (already more than a few years old!) camera is not as good, I also didn't like it, it sounds more muted, but the video is better so I'm using it anyway, sorry about that!
I would be a nervous wreck flying in that park like that. All I can see is those lights eating my airplane.
I've hit the trees but so far I've never hit the lights!
Rubber powered free flight, The only way to fly..