I live 20 minutes from Buffalo Arms. It's very nice having them so close when I need stuff for my own Remington rolling block or my other black powder rifles, because when the website shows not in stock, you can most of the time knock on their door and they'll fix you up in a few hours.
Properly cared for, a Rolling Block is virtually indestructible. What I saw here is not a restoration but a good cleaning of a rifle which was only dirty and with a light veil of rust. And what a complicated work for the cleaning rod ! Most of the Rolling Block cleaning rods are similar, if not the same, and an original is still quite easy to find. When I bought my French army Egyptian Rolling Block thirty years ago, it didn't have its rod either, but I found one, original, without any problem... interesting film anyway, and a great respect paid to this rifle, a thing we don't see so often now on TH-cam. So, well done, mate !
My dad was a full blood Swede, mom was half German and half French/Canadian, so I have a love for everything Swedish, I have owned the 6.5 Swedish Mauser as well as their Semi-auto, in fact I took a couple white tail with the semi-auto in 6.5, a really fine round for deer, soft shooting, very accurate and deadly if shot placement is proper. I have always wanted a rolling block but never had the opportunity to own one, now days with the price of guns and my now limited retirement income the chances of owning one are slim to none, but should the chance of snagging one in 6.5, I think I might well sell of a few computers or perhaps a gun or two to raise the funds. Great video on the recovery of a fine old firearm, and it appears a fun shooter, wish I could get to the range more but the cancer that hit me a couple years ago left me, well a bit out of shape for shooting fun any more. I sold off most of my guns before the price went nuts, story of my life but kept my old .45's from my cop days and a little .22 revolver just for fun and of course dad's old .22 that is about ready to head up to my grandsons as they are coming of shooting age, and that has been the plan since they were born.
Such great craftsmanship. And what an absolutely ingenious and simple locking mechanism. I happen to live about 1h30m from Huskvarna. You got me thinking maybe I should go check out their museum.
Excellent reconditioning job. I picked up a valuable tip from your video during reassembly. I have a Model 1867 Swedish in .50-70 and a Danish Rolling Block in 8X58R. May I suggest a couple things to do in reloading, to improve accuracy? First, you shouldn't have any resistance when chambering a round. None. So, size the cases all the way to the head. Then, chuck each case in your drill press and use a good file to reduce the rim diameter a bit. Chamber the case and repeat until the case literally falls into the chamber. Mike the diameter and repeat with all your cases. Trust me, you'll see why. You won't have to resize much after the cases are fire-formed. Next, measure the bullets as you intend to fire them- after sizing, or no sizing, whatever. Get an expander plug from RCBS a thousandth larger. Use this to expand the case as far as you will be seating the bullet. This will avoid distorting the bullet while seating and destroying your rifle's accuracy. Get or make a belling tool to bell the case mouth slightly before you seat the bullet. This also will improve accuracy. Seat with a punch that matches your bullet configuration. You will probably experiment with seating depth, crimp or not, amount of powder, etc. Your rifle is quality. It should deliver 100-yd. groups of 2" or 3". But, you gotta do your part. That's a pretty rifle. Good luck.
I've redone a couple of these over the years. I did an old civilian sale Rolling Block that never left the US and was in .43 Spanish. Turns out many were sold here in the US in the 1870's because not all of the early Remington made guns for foreign countries left the US. I needed to do some spring work on it and shot that one for a while. Then I redid a #4 Rolling Block in .22LR for my son. That one I got cheap because it worked but there was something wrong with the spring. So I took it apart and some time during its life the sear spring snapped off and the owner took to other springs from whatever he had, laid them over each other so they functioned but it had a heavy trigger pull. I replaced the springs with some older ones I found and now it shoots great. I've got a .32 rimfire #4 I've gotten shells for that uses a .22 Short as a blank and it's filled with black powder and either a heeled .32 bullet or a .310 roundball compressed on to the powder. It works great out to 25 yards.
I have a baby RB in 32. I converted it to centerfire shoots 32 long brass shortened the case a tad have a old skinny long scope. A J.W. Fecker. It's soots good.
Great video. I have one of these that externally is pristine and mechanically as new. Unfortunately it is severely pitted just ahead of the chamber. The pit is about 3/8 inch diameter and almost down to the outer barrel wall. I wanted to use it, but in my country it required proofing. A specialist gunsmith examined it and said the proof house would refuse to test it. Now it’s a wall hanger. I’ve examined several at arms fairs with pristine barrels but worn finish or mechanically poor. Too expensive to buy to swap parts. Still looking though. Thanks for posting in such a detailed and methodical way. 👍🏻
I have one, found it in the ground when digging for a new waterpipe some 20 years ago, rusted too far to get going but its a nice wall hanger, managed to make it look clean and some parts working.
A very sweet Swedish rolling block! as near to perfect as possible after 150+ years. The only addition I would make to your restoration would be a stock treatment of linseed oil. Beautiful gun and respectable shooting!!
I'm late to this party but so cool to watch. I happened upon the French gunsmiths rolling block video and saw your comments about hoping to acquire one of these, Too cool!
I'm not a gun smith nor a rolling block enthusiest but I couldn't stop watching this video Great job and congrats on the functioning rifle :) Well I guess I'm going to have to binge watch some of your videos now LOL Thanks for the great video :)
Nice looking rifle and good job cleaning it! The slight resistance when closing the breech looks similar to mine (Kongsberg Våpenfabrikk) if I use untrimmed .50-70 brass in it, so you might want to measure the chamber length and see if your cases need a bit of trimming. I generally go with 50 grs of Wano PPP (FFFg) behind a Lyman 515141 and cardboard "wad". Not much to gain by increasing the charge beyond that in my rifle, but your mileage may vary. Also, I do not really find it necessary to size the brass unless the cartridges get hard to load in the rifle. Not sizing the cases gives a little more room for the bullets when seated so that they won't deform.
I did have to trim the cases in the video to 42mm. At 44 the sticking was much more pronounced. That's a good tip about not sizing, I'll have to see if I can skip that step to make the brass last longer
I have a 12,17x44r CF, Carbine, and an 1867/95 8×58r Rifle. The Rifle is Ex.Con. Blue, and the Carbine is used " in the White" I dismantled using Chapman and Webster Gun Screw Drivers, with exact slot fit an width. No rust on Rifle ( looks Factory, unused), but the Carbine is well used ( no rust) Have made 8x58RD ammo for the Rifle ( from Starline .45/90 cases to get the full lenght). Lebel Military cases work for 12.17x44R Blanks BP. Hexx to clean afterward. Very strong positive actions. Comparison to M1902 7mm Rifle, and 1867/74 11mmx50R Egyptian...also a 1882 in 11mm Reformado ( Spanish) by Oviedo. Plus Five Receivers ( complete) M1914 8mm Lebel by Rem. Bought in Italy ( no barrels or woodwork...project for Film Guns, with Carbine, Musketoon and Long versions on either 50/70 Blank, or .45 calibre for "5-in-1" BP Blank...depends on Seamless Steel Tube or real Smoothbore Barrels ( not rifled) DocAV Australia
Very cool, thank you. I have an old rolling block hanging on my wall right now. Couldn't help looking at it the whole time I watched you. Mine actually is in great shape and could be shot as is...I just don't have anyway to load my own rounds. Can't see buying everything for the one gun though. It was still very enjoyable watching your video. 👍
You might look into how the buffalo hunters did it with minimalist equipment. I have seen it done with a nail to punch out the expended primers and a wooden dowel to seat the new ones. You would then measure the powder and dump it in. Many modern black powder shooters use an over the powder wad with a pea sized or smaller dab of black powder lube on top of the wad. Then the properly sized bullet is simply pressed down on top of all of the aforementioned, making certain that it is very firmly seated in order to compress the powder. By the way after you have fired you have fired each round its an excellent idea to drop the empty casing immediately into a jug of water with dish soap added because black powder is very corrosive and will ruin your casings otherwise. On straight wall cartridges a crimp would be optimal but not absolutely necessary in single shot rifles. There should be some good videos on how too's! Also some old books are available.
I have a French rolling block in 8mm LaBelle that just needed a good cleaning I also have a Mexican rolling block that looks like Pancho villa's army marched over covered with scratch and dings and no fireing pin and broken extractor the 3rd one I have is a Russian in7.62x54r it is almost in new condition it was just completely covered in cosmlene and cleaned up nicely
I'd be very interested in seeing pictures of the 7.62x54r rolling block. I've heard of them before but they're VERY hard to find even pictures of. My email is in my bio
@@rakumprojects I got it thru sarco about 10 yearsago I don't know if they have any more but you can try I love to send you a pic as soon as I get home from Japan in July I hope the gun grabbers don't get it
If you have to cut a thread on a small diameter piece of rod like that again, try scratching the thread in the lathe first. You don't need to go to full depth with the threading tool and you might find the job will spin in the chuck if you do, but if you take light cuts and just go to about half of the thread depth then you can finish the job with the die. The die will follow the track you have made and go on nice and square.
I bought this gun for black powder cartridges some years ago. It looks like newer use before coming out of a arsenal. It was a nice gun shooting very well.
good job on the M1867! my stepfather have two rolling blocks and one of them was a M1867 but was converted to 12ga for hunting and the other was built by a smith a long time ago, sadly both have been deactivated(welded barrels) as hunting with these kind of rifles in Sweden are forbidden nowadays(hunting guns must have a ammo capacity more than one round). they could have been re-permitted for competition shooting at the range but my stepfather opted to have them plugged and under a memorial permit(required by law) as his father had them before him and grandfather had them before his father, stepfather just wanted to keep them as wallhangers.
I picked up a sporterized one, years ago. Neat history. Mine had the chamber reamed for the 50-70 gov. The thing to be aware of is that the bores can be very tight. Mine measures .482 bore and .506 groove.
great recording of the restore process. i have a 2nd allen conversion trapdoor (1866). you need to use real BP. Pyrodex is not the same. 1.5F Olde Eynesfoes is great stuff, a card wad and lube pill under the boolit work wonders in keeping fouling soft for better shot/shot accuracy. nice rifle!!
Husqvarna kept on making guns up until 1989. Just remember that the calibre of the barrel isn't actually .50 when sourcing bullets, but .479 .41 old Swedish factory decimal inches. They repurposed the barrels from the 1860 muzzle, and 1864 chamber loading rifles in inventory.
The bore (groove to groove) on mine measures around .512". They did re-use barrels from older rifles, but this isn't one of them. Those are usually identifiable from the rear band being just a few inches ahead of the receiver.
@@rakumprojects Excellent! That definitely makes life easier for you I wonder what batch that was made in. I have rebarrelled one of my m/1861 rifles with an 1867 barrel and although it's clearly not a reused ML barrel, it is certainly in .479 bore.
Muy buen trabajo !!!! Hace poco me regalaron uno , al que le estoy haciendo las partes de madera , por q no las tiene, esta en muy mal estado, pero para adorno va a servir , es un 43 spanish ! Abrazos desde argentina !!!!!
You did not show any cleaning of the bore. I'm sure you did, though, its the most important part of the rifle. BTW, the tight fit of the action parts illustrates how precise hand fitting, even on a mass-produced service rifle, was de rigueur in 1874 Sweden.
hi there. nice job indeed and i love your presentation style. hey what was your carding wheel, grit size material ect. i'm having trouble finding such a thing here in N.Z but must be availiable. thanks.
If you could help me out. I've got a Swedish rolling block. 1873 in 12.7x44mmR converted from 12.7x42mm. But my extraction is broken. If I could get the measurements of how long it is. Maybe I could replace it.
I have recently acquired a Rolling Block rifle in .43 Spanish and your Restoration video has helped in enabling me to pull apart all the relevant pieces for cleaning and restoration. The clearing/ramrod has been replaced at some time and does not have a screw thread to retain it, can you please tell me what type/size of thread this is so that I can purchase the correct Dia. The clearing rod is 5mm diameter. Great video and of great help
Many thanks for the information I now need to see how that equates to the correct size in the UK where these things are measured and listed differently.
Fine work and video! The rolling block is such a simple, ingenious and strong action. Any idea the muzzle velocity? That long barrel should give it a boost.
In my restorations I try to be as minimally invasive as possible. I want the well used look without the rust that will cause further decay. I'm not after a fresh out of the factory look.
You could have started your thread straight by clamping the rod in your lathe chuck then keep the die holder against the flat face of your tailstock screw.
No! You can't. .43 spanish is a black powder round, .454 casull runs about 60,000 psi. If you want to do such a conversion, you HAVE to use an ORIGINAL smokeless powder action. Even then, you're pushing the limits of century ago metallurgy. 7mm Mauser and .303 brit max out at about 45k. Lebel and 7.62 russian about 40k at that time. That's commercial max loads. Every shot of a casull would be like a proof load in those actions. At best, you'd be battering the action to death slowly.
Greetings from Australia, My Husqy prefers 55gn of 2 F and the same bullet but sized to .510. It shoots dead on at 200m with its barrel sights and has won my clubs 200 trophy even competing against repro Sharps etc that are fitted with vernier sights. It's one of my favourite bp shootin irons. See my icon pic :-)
Hodgedon 777 powder want corrode your rifle because it doesn't have sulfur in it! I've been using it in my black powder cartridges for a lot of years and I haven't ever had rust and corrosion problems! Always had good accuracy with it.
You should look to see if you can find the original side bayonet for it instead of the one that attaches to the front site,but other than that that's a nice old rifle
Such a beautiful Rifle, with a HUGE round! Sure it's black powder, but man, that be a huge bullet, I can see why when guys got hit by those bullets back then those bullets tended to remove limbs when they encountered them. I love the old breach block rifles , like the Rotating block and the falling block Rifles, the late 1800s falling blocks were my favorite. Classical firearms at their best, for the 19th century anyways. very nice rifle, I'm really jealous.
These are parallel tip screwdrivers made in Switzerland by PB Swiss. I strongly prefer dedicated screwdrivers over the generic gunsmith bit sets. And these don't damage screw slots.
I live 20 minutes from Buffalo Arms. It's very nice having them so close when I need stuff for my own Remington rolling block or my other black powder rifles, because when the website shows not in stock, you can most of the time knock on their door and they'll fix you up in a few hours.
Properly cared for, a Rolling Block is virtually indestructible. What I saw here is not a restoration but a good cleaning of a rifle which was only dirty and with a light veil of rust. And what a complicated work for the cleaning rod ! Most of the Rolling Block cleaning rods are similar, if not the same, and an original is still quite easy to find. When I bought my French army Egyptian Rolling Block thirty years ago, it didn't have its rod either, but I found one, original, without any problem... interesting film anyway, and a great respect paid to this rifle, a thing we don't see so often now on TH-cam. So, well done, mate !
Conservation is probably a better term
My dad was a full blood Swede, mom was half German and half French/Canadian, so I have a love for everything Swedish, I have owned the 6.5 Swedish Mauser as well as their Semi-auto, in fact I took a couple white tail with the semi-auto in 6.5, a really fine round for deer, soft shooting, very accurate and deadly if shot placement is proper. I have always wanted a rolling block but never had the opportunity to own one, now days with the price of guns and my now limited retirement income the chances of owning one are slim to none, but should the chance of snagging one in 6.5, I think I might well sell of a few computers or perhaps a gun or two to raise the funds. Great video on the recovery of a fine old firearm, and it appears a fun shooter, wish I could get to the range more but the cancer that hit me a couple years ago left me, well a bit out of shape for shooting fun any more. I sold off most of my guns before the price went nuts, story of my life but kept my old .45's from my cop days and a little .22 revolver just for fun and of course dad's old .22 that is about ready to head up to my grandsons as they are coming of shooting age, and that has been the plan since they were born.
Such great craftsmanship. And what an absolutely ingenious and simple locking mechanism.
I happen to live about 1h30m from Huskvarna. You got me thinking maybe I should go check out their museum.
deras museum är Guld! var där i sommras fastnade där i säkert 5 timmar
Great job! Your video is perfect!
Calm voiceover, no stupid music, detailed and well paced video. Thanks for sharing this with us. 👍🏽👍🏽
No joke, one of my favorite vids on TH-cam. Well done and much appreciated! I know more today thanks to you 🎉
Excellent reconditioning job. I picked up a valuable tip from your video during reassembly. I have a Model 1867 Swedish in .50-70 and a Danish Rolling Block in 8X58R. May I suggest a couple things to do in reloading, to improve accuracy? First, you shouldn't have any resistance when chambering a round. None. So, size the cases all the way to the head. Then, chuck each case in your drill press and use a good file to reduce the rim diameter a bit. Chamber the case and repeat until the case literally falls into the chamber. Mike the diameter and repeat with all your cases. Trust me, you'll see why. You won't have to resize much after the cases are fire-formed. Next, measure the bullets as you intend to fire them- after sizing, or no sizing, whatever. Get an expander plug from RCBS a thousandth larger. Use this to expand the case as far as you will be seating the bullet. This will avoid distorting the bullet while seating and destroying your rifle's accuracy. Get or make a belling tool to bell the case mouth slightly before you seat the bullet. This also will improve accuracy. Seat with a punch that matches your bullet configuration. You will probably experiment with seating depth, crimp or not, amount of powder, etc. Your rifle is quality. It should deliver 100-yd. groups of 2" or 3". But, you gotta do your part. That's a pretty rifle. Good luck.
Great tips, thank you. I was more concerned about just shooting the rifle, but now I can proceed with tweaking things and pursuing accuracy.
I've redone a couple of these over the years. I did an old civilian sale Rolling Block that never left the US and was in .43 Spanish. Turns out many were sold here in the US in the 1870's because not all of the early Remington made guns for foreign countries left the US. I needed to do some spring work on it and shot that one for a while. Then I redid a #4 Rolling Block in .22LR for my son. That one I got cheap because it worked but there was something wrong with the spring. So I took it apart and some time during its life the sear spring snapped off and the owner took to other springs from whatever he had, laid them over each other so they functioned but it had a heavy trigger pull. I replaced the springs with some older ones I found and now it shoots great. I've got a .32 rimfire #4 I've gotten shells for that uses a .22 Short as a blank and it's filled with black powder and either a heeled .32 bullet or a .310 roundball compressed on to the powder. It works great out to 25 yards.
I have a baby RB in 32. I converted it to centerfire shoots 32 long brass shortened the case a tad have a old skinny long scope. A J.W. Fecker. It's soots good.
@@jlyle51❤
Great video. I have one of these that externally is pristine and mechanically as new. Unfortunately it is severely pitted just ahead of the chamber. The pit is about 3/8 inch diameter and almost down to the outer barrel wall. I wanted to use it, but in my country it required proofing. A specialist gunsmith examined it and said the proof house would refuse to test it. Now it’s a wall hanger. I’ve examined several at arms fairs with pristine barrels but worn finish or mechanically poor. Too expensive to buy to swap parts. Still looking though. Thanks for posting in such a detailed and methodical way. 👍🏻
I have one, found it in the ground when digging for a new waterpipe some 20 years ago, rusted too far to get going but its a nice wall hanger, managed to make it look clean and some parts working.
A very sweet Swedish rolling block! as near to perfect as possible after 150+ years. The only addition I would make to your restoration would be a stock treatment of linseed oil. Beautiful gun and respectable shooting!!
He should get the bayonet for it aswell, for completion
Swedish rolling block rocks !
I'm late to this party but so cool to watch. I happened upon the French gunsmiths rolling block video and saw your comments about hoping to acquire one of these, Too cool!
Pure craftsmanship lovely restoration
She's beautiful, congrats and great work as always😊
I'm not a gun smith nor a rolling block enthusiest but I couldn't stop watching this video Great job and congrats on the functioning rifle :) Well I guess I'm going to have to binge watch some of your videos now LOL Thanks for the great video :)
I like your work and your rifle it's a fine looking piece! Keep up the good work and looking forward to watching more of your videos!
Nice looking rifle and good job cleaning it! The slight resistance when closing the breech looks similar to mine (Kongsberg Våpenfabrikk) if I use untrimmed .50-70 brass in it, so you might want to measure the chamber length and see if your cases need a bit of trimming. I generally go with 50 grs of Wano PPP (FFFg) behind a Lyman 515141 and cardboard "wad". Not much to gain by increasing the charge beyond that in my rifle, but your mileage may vary. Also, I do not really find it necessary to size the brass unless the cartridges get hard to load in the rifle. Not sizing the cases gives a little more room for the bullets when seated so that they won't deform.
I did have to trim the cases in the video to 42mm. At 44 the sticking was much more pronounced. That's a good tip about not sizing, I'll have to see if I can skip that step to make the brass last longer
I have a 12,17x44r CF, Carbine, and an 1867/95 8×58r Rifle. The Rifle is Ex.Con. Blue, and the Carbine is used " in the White"
I dismantled using Chapman and Webster Gun Screw Drivers, with exact slot fit an width.
No rust on Rifle ( looks Factory, unused), but the Carbine is well used ( no rust)
Have made 8x58RD ammo for the Rifle ( from Starline .45/90 cases to get the full lenght).
Lebel Military cases work for 12.17x44R Blanks BP.
Hexx to clean afterward.
Very strong positive actions.
Comparison to M1902 7mm Rifle, and 1867/74 11mmx50R Egyptian...also a 1882 in 11mm Reformado ( Spanish) by Oviedo.
Plus Five Receivers ( complete) M1914 8mm Lebel by Rem. Bought in Italy ( no barrels or woodwork...project for Film Guns, with Carbine, Musketoon and Long versions on either 50/70 Blank, or .45 calibre for "5-in-1" BP Blank...depends on Seamless Steel Tube or real Smoothbore Barrels ( not rifled)
DocAV Australia
I have a carl gustaf rolling block made in 1876, in 12,17x44R. Nice old rifle in original condition. And it works😂👍
Very cool, thank you. I have an old rolling block hanging on my wall right now. Couldn't help looking at it the whole time I watched you. Mine actually is in great shape and could be shot as is...I just don't have anyway to load my own rounds. Can't see buying everything for the one gun though. It was still very enjoyable watching your video. 👍
You might look into how the buffalo hunters did it with minimalist equipment. I have seen it done with a nail to punch out the expended primers and a wooden dowel to seat the new ones. You would then measure the powder and dump it in. Many modern black powder shooters use an over the powder wad with a pea sized or smaller dab of black powder lube on top of the wad. Then the properly sized bullet is simply pressed down on top of all of the aforementioned, making certain that it is very firmly seated in order to compress the powder. By the way after you have fired you have fired each round its an excellent idea to drop the empty casing immediately into a jug of water with dish soap added because black powder is very corrosive and will ruin your casings otherwise. On straight wall cartridges a crimp would be optimal but not absolutely necessary in single shot rifles. There should be some good videos on how too's! Also some old books are available.
Another good job with a terrific fun gun to shoot in the end
Nice job restoring a fun shooter. Very cool.
Thanks,always enjoy your projects.
A very fine restoration, excellent work!
First time watching, really enjoyable vid. Thanks
Nicely done greetings from sweden
I have a French rolling block in 8mm LaBelle that just needed a good cleaning I also have a Mexican rolling block that looks like Pancho villa's army marched over covered with scratch and dings and no fireing pin and broken extractor the 3rd one I have is a Russian in7.62x54r it is almost in new condition it was just completely covered in cosmlene and cleaned up nicely
I'd be very interested in seeing pictures of the 7.62x54r rolling block. I've heard of them before but they're VERY hard to find even pictures of. My email is in my bio
@@rakumprojects I got it thru sarco about 10 yearsago I don't know if they have any more but you can try I love to send you a pic as soon as I get home from Japan in July I hope the gun grabbers don't get it
If you have to cut a thread on a small diameter piece of rod like that again, try scratching the thread in the lathe first. You don't need to go to full depth with the threading tool and you might find the job will spin in the chuck if you do, but if you take light cuts and just go to about half of the thread depth then you can finish the job with the die. The die will follow the track you have made and go on nice and square.
I have one. Great Video! Congrats! Good Job!
Great project... bookmarking for when I take apart my New York State rolling block 🙂
Very nice and detailed video, thank you sir. Best regards from Sweden!
I bought this gun for black powder cartridges some years ago. It looks like newer use before coming out of a arsenal. It was a nice gun shooting very well.
good job on the M1867! my stepfather have two rolling blocks and one of them was a M1867 but was converted to 12ga for hunting and the other was built by a smith a long time ago, sadly both have been deactivated(welded barrels) as hunting with these kind of rifles in Sweden are forbidden nowadays(hunting guns must have a ammo capacity more than one round). they could have been re-permitted for competition shooting at the range but my stepfather opted to have them plugged and under a memorial permit(required by law) as his father had them before him and grandfather had them before his father, stepfather just wanted to keep them as wallhangers.
I picked up a sporterized one, years ago. Neat history. Mine had the chamber reamed for the 50-70 gov. The thing to be aware of is that the bores can be very tight. Mine measures .482 bore and .506 groove.
If I remember correctly mine measured around .512-513" in the grooves. Any smaller and I'd have to size the bullets down
great recording of the restore process. i have a 2nd allen conversion trapdoor (1866). you need to use real BP. Pyrodex is not the same. 1.5F Olde Eynesfoes is great stuff, a card wad and lube pill under the boolit work wonders in keeping fouling soft for better shot/shot accuracy. nice rifle!!
Very good. Thank you for posting
Husqvarna kept on making guns up until 1989.
Just remember that the calibre of the barrel isn't actually .50 when sourcing bullets, but .479
.41 old Swedish factory decimal inches.
They repurposed the barrels from the 1860 muzzle, and 1864 chamber loading rifles in inventory.
The bore (groove to groove) on mine measures around .512". They did re-use barrels from older rifles, but this isn't one of them. Those are usually identifiable from the rear band being just a few inches ahead of the receiver.
@@rakumprojects Excellent! That definitely makes life easier for you
I wonder what batch that was made in.
I have rebarrelled one of my m/1861 rifles with an 1867 barrel and although it's clearly not a reused ML barrel, it is certainly in .479 bore.
Nice video. I enjoyed it.
Nice Job! Looks Great!
Muy buen trabajo !!!! Hace poco me regalaron uno , al que le estoy haciendo las partes de madera , por q no las tiene, esta en muy mal estado, pero para adorno va a servir , es un 43 spanish ! Abrazos desde argentina !!!!!
Fantastic job!
You did not show any cleaning of the bore. I'm sure you did, though, its the most important part of the rifle. BTW, the tight fit of the action parts illustrates how precise hand fitting, even on a mass-produced service rifle, was de rigueur in 1874 Sweden.
hi there. nice job indeed and i love your presentation style. hey what was your carding wheel, grit size material ect. i'm having trouble finding such a thing here in N.Z but must be availiable. thanks.
It's made by Grobet in the USA, part #16.463. I'm not sure if there's a NZ distributor, but if not, look for a wheel with wires measuring .003"
If you could help me out. I've got a Swedish rolling block. 1873 in 12.7x44mmR converted from 12.7x42mm. But my extraction is broken. If I could get the measurements of how long it is. Maybe I could replace it.
I'm fairly sure that any bar type extractor will fit. Mine measures 1.147" long overall.
i really enjoyed this
I had one of these chambered in 8x58mmRD. Can't say I was the biggest fan of it.
Why's that? I like the rolling block as an action and the 8x58rd as a cartridge, I think they'd be a good combination.
Very nice work 👏 you should really take care of your hands. Gloves when you're dipping them into kerosene 😊
I have recently acquired a Rolling Block rifle in .43 Spanish and your Restoration video has helped in enabling me to pull apart all the relevant pieces for cleaning and restoration. The clearing/ramrod has been replaced at some time and does not have a screw thread to retain it, can you please tell me what type/size of thread this is so that I can purchase the correct Dia. The clearing rod is 5mm diameter.
Great video and of great help
I'm sure the actual thread size is different but I made my cleaning rod with a 10-32 thread pitch and it holds well enough.
Many thanks for the information I now need to see how that equates to the correct size in the UK where these things are measured and listed differently.
@@Peter-b7d try 3/16-32 BSF. I had to use British threads on my Norwegian Krag, the same could be the case here.
There was no mentioning of the most important aspect of this rifle, which is the bore condition of a black powder rifle…
It's in great condition. The bore is shown right around 04:30
Fine work and video! The rolling block is such a simple, ingenious and strong action. Any idea the muzzle velocity? That long barrel should give it a boost.
I'm not sure of the muzzle velocity. If I had to guess I'd say it's around 1000-1200 fps
What cal. Conversion would you choose? I guess 30.06 is too much,black powder 45/70?
Some people convert these to 50-70 because the cartridges are very similar
Very nice and useful video.The carding wheel is the one that Brownell has or something different? Thank you
Yes, the 4 row wheel.
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It looks like your bore has an octagonal shape internally? What are your bore dimensions/diameter ?
It looks octagonal due to the deep rifling but it is round. The grooves measure around .512"
Question from a rank amateur....
Why didn't you blue the parts after cleaning and polishing with the sanding wheel?
In my restorations I try to be as minimally invasive as possible. I want the well used look without the rust that will cause further decay. I'm not after a fresh out of the factory look.
@@rakumprojects Fair enough. Thanks for responding.
Just a thought but you might could use 4f powder. I've never tried it but it is more powerful than the regular stuff.
very nice indeed, well done 😉
You could have started your thread straight by clamping the rod in your lathe chuck then keep the die holder against the flat face of your tailstock screw.
Good idea. I think I was avoiding using the lathe due to the amount of stick out it would have had. But I could have done it unpowered
@@rakumprojectsYes, you'd only need a couple of turns by hand to get it started square to the rod. The rifle turned out a fine piece.
Applying Mark Novak's teashings I see :) Good to see ppl treating the gats good
Hello, I would like to know if I can convert a Remington Rolling Block caliber 43 Spanish to the 454 casul?
No! You can't. .43 spanish is a black powder round, .454 casull runs about 60,000 psi. If you want to do such a conversion, you HAVE to use an ORIGINAL smokeless powder action. Even then, you're pushing the limits of century ago metallurgy. 7mm Mauser and .303 brit max out at about 45k. Lebel and 7.62 russian about 40k at that time. That's commercial max loads. Every shot of a casull would be like a proof load in those actions. At best, you'd be battering the action to death slowly.
Greetings from Australia, My Husqy prefers 55gn of 2 F and the same bullet but sized to .510. It shoots dead on at 200m with its barrel sights and has won my clubs 200 trophy even competing against repro Sharps etc that are fitted with vernier sights. It's one of my favourite bp shootin irons. See my icon pic :-)
Hodgedon 777 powder want corrode your rifle because it doesn't have sulfur in it! I've been using it in my black powder cartridges for a lot of years and I haven't ever had rust and corrosion problems! Always had good accuracy with it.
I need to try 777. I've only ever used Pyrodex RS and real black powder.
You should look to see if you can find the original side bayonet for it instead of the one that attaches to the front site,but other than that that's a nice old rifle
Very cool
You didnt get it coated?
hey rakum, do you prefer WD40 over balistol?
WD40 is much easier to get for me, no stores around me carry Ballistol. Plus I don't like the smell to be honest.
@@rakumprojects are you in the eastern US? the further west i go people seem to like the smell of balistol more, in my own experience.
@@southern.pride0 You're right on the money
@@rakumprojects must be one of those things.
i appreciate the input, you stay safe and god bless.
If you are going to do much of that kind of work get yourself a good set of Brownells hollow ground screwdrivers...
These are parallel tip screwdrivers, made by PB Swiss
Hoe are the axis puns held in place? Can't they just be pushed past the retaining screws? Or am i missing something? Amazing work
There's a small head on the axis pins so they can't be pushed through the action.
In 1965 a general store I went to had a barrel full of Spanish rolling block rifles for $10.00 ! 43 Spanish caliber was not for me.
Such a beautiful Rifle, with a HUGE round! Sure it's black powder, but man, that be a huge bullet, I can see why when guys got hit by those bullets back then those bullets tended to remove limbs when they encountered them. I love the old breach block rifles , like the Rotating block and the falling block Rifles, the late 1800s falling blocks were my favorite. Classical firearms at their best, for the 19th century anyways. very nice rifle, I'm really jealous.
OK, so what is thread on the cleaning rod?
I used a 10-32 die. Whether that's correct, or close enough I'm not sure
I have a Swedish roller 8n 32x40.
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And here I was thinking that Husky only made things with engines
Great renovation! Black powder smells better than Pyrodex
Is there anyone on utube that owns a decent set of gunsmiths screwdrivers?
These are parallel tip screwdrivers made in Switzerland by PB Swiss. I strongly prefer dedicated screwdrivers over the generic gunsmith bit sets. And these don't damage screw slots.
Yeah I noticed when I saw they were numbered my thought was they had to be expensive.
BACO has real black powder, 1.5 Swiss, no fake stuff
A lot of moose have been shot with these rifles.
Go AI reader.
Nasal resonance not good.