Great video Chris. I live where you used to teach and am so disappointed that you stopped before I was able to book a course. I think accuracy is the hardest thing, so many things that impact. I always struggle with sharpness and achieving flat edges. I also think your final point about attitude is a really good one.
Hi Roy. Thanks for the comment. I thought you might like to know that Nick Thompson, who took over my workshop at tthe Cornmill when I retired, is now based at Sunnybank Mills in Farsley where he offers courses. He has a fantastic setup there, I was there yesterday doing some machining, his courses are excellent andd very popular. Worth checking out The Northern School of Woodwork.
Hi Chris long time no see . Chris you was my tutor at Jacob Kramer college Leeds Teaching me antique furniture restoration .A lot of years ago Just a few words to say thank you for all your help kindness and support thank you
Good to hear from you Terry. It's sad the way the furniture department at the Art College declined from the time when I taugh there, it has gone completely now. I have a workshop in Ilkley, do drop in for a chat if you are passing sometime.
Very good tips Chris and enough to get me to subscribe. A point though. Using the term "Engineers Square" would be specific to only a few country's.And especially the U.K., Austrailia and a few more. It's still the proper and correct term for those that do know what's meant. Better might be also adding the term machinist's square since the rest when looking for one can use that for a search term.
Thanks for subscribing, it's appreciated. I suppose the problem with naming of tools comes about through using a global platform like TH-cam. Hopefully people will know what I mean when they see the tool in the video.
Yes Joe, but it has to be sharp and light as you say, a thick soft pencil will highlight the line but also obscure it. Marking waste is important in helping you to saw on the correct side of the line.
Hi Chris, just watched your latest video. I'm sure you already know, that vernier is the scale and caliper is the tool so you can have vernier or digital calipers. You may notice, digital calipers also have a vernier scale.
Hi Lloyd, thanks for the comment. I'm not sure I did know but I would guess everyone knew what I was talking about. I'm not very precise with words sometimes it's a chip breaker others it's a cap iron!
Aren't the machinist squares just press fitted in between a slot. Meaning if you want to move it you can, although I haven't on mine, yet. No need to dress them. Unless you mean something happens to one edge....🤦 16:06 When chiseling the board. Why didn't you cut them closer and then knock them sideways breaking them. A lot quicker? Or is there a reason to cutting them fat. I like how you hang your clamps. 🙋 Was wondering if you was gonna show how to square that chiseled to make the center flat from mark to mark all the way across.🤷😐
I'm not sure how the squares are fitted, I have always assumed they are fixed in some way, otherwise you would have to be checking them all the time to check they had not been knocked out of square, for instance when dropped. Also it would be difficult to do very slight adjustments. But I would be interested to learn differently. I see what you mean about taking more wasting cuts and knocking sideways. I have always done it the way shown and not thought to do it any other way. You would need to do a lot of cuts before you could knock it sideways sop it may not be quicker. I will experiment when I get time. Not sure what you mean in your last comment, my other video on cutting a lap joint may answer it th-cam.com/video/esy25rsWtl4/w-d-xo.html
Pleased to see the vernier calipers on your list .. a lot of hand tool purists seem to poo-poo them. Like you, I have mine on the bench most of the time. .. great video as always
They use the fixed jaw to run down the side or edge of the part and the point to scribe the work. It's an extremely poor practice since it stresses the calipers in ways it was never designed to take while wearing out the sharp tip. Some metal working videos are bad for showing this practice by some who have no idea of what there doing. Of course the new entry level people see this and copy them.
I can see it may work for marking metal but I couldn't see it working with wood, the point would not make a clean enough mark (check out my latest vid. on marking gauges). I agree that it would also ruin the calipers.
My main interest is metal working although I do a limited amount of wood working. It's inaccurate while marking metal as well since the caliper has to be slightly tilted so the fixed jaw can run down an edge. You could use a Patek Philippe wrist watch as a light weight hammer, that doesn't mean it's a good idea. The proper use of the correct layout tools are designed for the task, reasonable to buy, and the scribes are capable of being resharpened. A $6 scribe makes far more logical sense than over stressing and vastly shortening a $200 + tools accuracy lifespan. At most in a commercial machine shop where time is money I might do so, but then plan on replacing the tool every year or so. Not when I'm buying my own good tools for use at home. Using any caliper in that way demonstrates laziness and a distinct lack of knowledge of what that type of abuse does. There's a great deal more to craftsmanship than just the finished project. And yes a good accurate square and marking knife or a marking gauge would always give you far better results every single time when doing a layout on wood because there designed for that specific job.
When you showed four fingers for tip#4, how the hell did you fold down your little finger while holding the others straight!? That's not natural. (Nice video.)
I’ve done a few weekend courses with Chris,he’s a very talented cabinet maker,a great teacher and decent guy also. Howard 👍.
Great video Chris. I live where you used to teach and am so disappointed that you stopped before I was able to book a course. I think accuracy is the hardest thing, so many things that impact. I always struggle with sharpness and achieving flat edges. I also think your final point about attitude is a really good one.
Hi Roy. Thanks for the comment. I thought you might like to know that Nick Thompson, who took over my workshop at tthe Cornmill when I retired, is now based at Sunnybank Mills in Farsley where he offers courses. He has a fantastic setup there, I was there yesterday doing some machining, his courses are excellent andd very popular. Worth checking out The Northern School of Woodwork.
This is a very helpful video. Thank you 😊
Just wanted to chime in and say thanks for this, as a new woodworker learning on my own, information like this is invaluable.
Thanks Ryan, appreciated.
Hi Chris long time no see . Chris you was my tutor at Jacob Kramer college Leeds
Teaching me antique furniture restoration .A lot of years ago
Just a few words to say thank you for all your help kindness and support thank you
Good to hear from you Terry. It's sad the way the furniture department at the Art College declined from the time when I taugh there, it has gone completely now. I have a workshop in Ilkley, do drop in for a chat if you are passing sometime.
Excellent presentation. Very valuable information provided.
Thank you, Chris
Great information to go by especially the last one. Take care.
Great tips as always Chris.Thank you
Excellent points chris , cheers
I was surprised at the difference between a H and HB pencil, thanks.
Yes, the problem with the HB is that it's so soft. You can get a point on it but it wears away very quickly leaving a stub which is not accurate.
Very good tips Chris and enough to get me to subscribe. A point though. Using the term "Engineers Square" would be specific to only a few country's.And especially the U.K., Austrailia and a few more. It's still the proper and correct term for those that do know what's meant. Better might be also adding the term machinist's square since the rest when looking for one can use that for a search term.
Thanks for subscribing, it's appreciated. I suppose the problem with naming of tools comes about through using a global platform like TH-cam. Hopefully people will know what I mean when they see the tool in the video.
A sharp pencil in the knife line used lightly helps to see the marked area.Shade all waste.
Yes Joe, but it has to be sharp and light as you say, a thick soft pencil will highlight the line but also obscure it. Marking waste is important in helping you to saw on the correct side of the line.
Hi Chris, just watched your latest video. I'm sure you already know, that vernier is the scale and caliper is the tool so you can have vernier or digital calipers. You may notice, digital calipers also have a vernier scale.
Hi Lloyd, thanks for the comment. I'm not sure I did know but I would guess everyone knew what I was talking about. I'm not very precise with words sometimes it's a chip breaker others it's a cap iron!
Aren't the machinist squares just press fitted in between a slot.
Meaning if you want to move it you can, although I haven't on mine, yet.
No need to dress them.
Unless you mean something happens to one edge....🤦
16:06
When chiseling the board.
Why didn't you cut them closer and then knock them sideways breaking them. A lot quicker? Or is there a reason to cutting them fat.
I like how you hang your clamps. 🙋
Was wondering if you was gonna show how to square that chiseled to make the center flat from mark to mark all the way across.🤷😐
I'm not sure how the squares are fitted, I have always assumed they are fixed in some way, otherwise you would have to be checking them all the time to check they had not been knocked out of square, for instance when dropped. Also it would be difficult to do very slight adjustments. But I would be interested to learn differently.
I see what you mean about taking more wasting cuts and knocking sideways. I have always done it the way shown and not thought to do it any other way. You would need to do a lot of cuts before you could knock it sideways sop it may not be quicker. I will experiment when I get time.
Not sure what you mean in your last comment, my other video on cutting a lap joint may answer it th-cam.com/video/esy25rsWtl4/w-d-xo.html
Pleased to see the vernier calipers on your list .. a lot of hand tool purists seem to poo-poo them.
Like you, I have mine on the bench most of the time.
.. great video as always
Thanks for the comments Mike.
I like to use hand tools and Vernier callipers. Just need to bring my tool skills up to justify the calipers. 🤔 Oh well, back to the bench. 😊
Are you standing on a Bongo Board?
Sorry. Me no understand.
a sharp pencil in the knife line
Yes, sharp and light.
Just to add. A lot of younger viewers have probably never even heard of a vernier scale, never mind knowing how to read one!
That's partly why I mentioned digital calipers.
I see people use vernier to as marker that makes me feel a bit uneasy.
I think it would me too. How do they actually do that?
They use the fixed jaw to run down the side or edge of the part and the point to scribe the work. It's an extremely poor practice since it stresses the calipers in ways it was never designed to take while wearing out the sharp tip. Some metal working videos are bad for showing this practice by some who have no idea of what there doing. Of course the new entry level people see this and copy them.
I can see it may work for marking metal but I couldn't see it working with wood, the point would not make a clean enough mark (check out my latest vid. on marking gauges). I agree that it would also ruin the calipers.
My main interest is metal working although I do a limited amount of wood working. It's inaccurate while marking metal as well since the caliper has to be slightly tilted so the fixed jaw can run down an edge. You could use a Patek Philippe wrist watch as a light weight hammer, that doesn't mean it's a good idea. The proper use of the correct layout tools are designed for the task, reasonable to buy, and the scribes are capable of being resharpened. A $6 scribe makes far more logical sense than over stressing and vastly shortening a $200 + tools accuracy lifespan. At most in a commercial machine shop where time is money I might do so, but then plan on replacing the tool every year or so. Not when I'm buying my own good tools for use at home. Using any caliper in that way demonstrates laziness and a distinct lack of knowledge of what that type of abuse does. There's a great deal more to craftsmanship than just the finished project. And yes a good accurate square and marking knife or a marking gauge would always give you far better results every single time when doing a layout on wood because there designed for that specific job.
When you showed four fingers for tip#4, how the hell did you fold down your little finger while holding the others straight!? That's not natural. (Nice video.)
I didn't realise I was a freak, thanks for that :)
lignt is also important ...i
Very true Cyrille. Perhaps I should do anothe vid - Seven more tips to improve you accuracy:)
there is so much to do to improve acuracy :) ... of course you can
Steel rule
Engineers square
Marking knife
Sharp tools
Creep up on lines
Vernier
Attitude