If anyone reading this is on a typical Autofocus style body (such as a Sony A7, etc).. you can do this as well. It won't be nearly as clean as seen here, where the lens is designed to really make it easy for you. BUT, you still have multiple options that work fantastic. One is adapting vintage lenses, which mirror the experience seen here pretty closely. Adapters are typically cheap, lenses are available for very cheap (My favorite- the Asahi Pentax 28/3.5 SMC Takumar- was $30). The other option is getting contemporary manual lenses manufactured for your exact mount. In the case of Sony, you have a few options... but the gold standards are Zeiss (Loxia) and Voigtlander. They are less fidgety and prone to aged-related wear than their vintage counterparts. Dialing in zone/range focus is very straight forward with modern manual lenses, where-as it might take some experimentation with vintage lenses. Everything else he talks about here still applies. Just keep in mind that the focus throw will not be as short and sweet. BUT, it may come with upsides as well. For instance, the Voigtlander 21/3.5 Color Skopar can focus very close. So it has a short throw for 1.5ft to infinity.. then a very long throw for under 1.5ft. We lose the ability to whip back to 2ft minimum distance at a hard stop like seen here... but we gain the ability to focus much closer. Similar quirks exist for many lenses (look into the Helios aperture limiter, for instance). Anyway. A little ramble for those who may end up here and think they can't pursue this with their random modern cam ✌
You forgot to mention the crucial part that's the distance that would actually be in focus eg feet / metres at each of your three positions eg @4ft f16 what will be in focus would be roughly 3ft - 8ft that's why it's called zone focus. the extremities of the zone being softer focus.
Zone focusing works as long as you can guess how far a particular zone area is. I guess the real training is guessing your distances. Also with zone focusing you can forget shallow depth of fields, which I particularly don't use. I use f/5.6 and smaller in street photography.
Would it be correct to say that you shouldn't expect tack-sharp focus? I get the gist of mid- to high-aperature settings allowing for greater depths to appear in focus, but isn't it just that there's a wider gradient of slightly-to-very-to-genuinely in focus content based on their depth/distance from the focal plane?
I used zone focusing when I first started taking pictures but my interest led me to sports photography. I mastered manual focusing very quickly. This was before autofocus technology ;)
Thanks for the how-to video. I have no problems tactile zone focusing with my 35mm lens on my Leica bodies. However, I do have problems with my other Leica lenses and with my other cameras. I probably just need to practice more with them.
I like the idea of zone focusing but the thing is, it only works well at f16 and f11. Maybe also f8 but then it gets more critical to estimate the distance to your subject correctly. So yea, for street photography you probably don’t want go go below f8 but in cloudy, rainy areas of Europe that‘s not always possible 😅
Try scale focusing by feel. Jae Rose made a video about it recently. You can get down to f/2.8 or f/4 with a 35mm or 28mm lens. Back when I did street, I did a variation based on framing (full length, 3/4, and above waist length) in both horizontal and vertical orientations. It’s a lot easier to mentally tie the framing you want with a physical (unnumbered) distance than trying to get good at telling how many meters away everything is and where you should pull the focus tab for that distance.
Sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I was dumb lost the account password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Troy Blaine I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
thank you very much, great video i recently got an old petri 7s II and the framing guides/focus guide are too faded to see, i will practice this method on my digital first
Good looks on the video...I just picked up a M10-P not too long ago after using the Q-P ...using manual focus has always been an issue for me because of my near sightedness...so been trying to practice zone focusing more and more these days...will definitely try out your tips after I get my Leica 28mm 👊👊
Question - when mounting M lenses on an adaptor (for Fuji in this case), is the distance scale thrown off by the thickness of the adaptor? I find my M lenses don’t focus at infinity properly. Thanks
Excellent tutorial, just got a Leica SL2-S and will be using a 35mm f1.4 in manual focus. Never used manual focus so this zone focus tutorial was very helpful. Thanks Ian (UK)
subbed! I'm new to film, I went out last Tuesday and took about 7/36 shots, I'm so noob the film didn't even move. Too bad buuut got it working now, will try again the next time I leave the confines of my space haha. I learned a lot with your sunny 16 vids. Can't thank you enough for that. Cheers!
Thanks for the video (& for shooting film!). I am waiting on a few Russian rangefinders to play with but got an odd camera today with zone focus scale only. No distance, just "Close-ups", "Groups", & " Scenes". Might head to the city tomorrow and shoot a roll of B&W. I have one of those Keks light meters on order. How is it compared to the Voigtlander at half the price? Thanks again!
Surely a lens is not at it's optimum performance at f16. Leica's are superb wide open. f8 is OK, I would be wary of f16. Do you find it works well? What ISO would you need at f16 because you might get camera shake or movement blur?
You forgot to talk about aperature for zone focusing. This technique is useless if someone is using fully open aperature.I expect you will explain to the guys how to do zone metering drawn on the lens
This was a dope video. I got a Minolta X-700 about a year after I bought my first SLR (thanks to you 😎🤙🏽) This is gonna help me tremendously. Thanks bro
I like your 3-point system! I've always looked at the distance scale on the lens to get it close to where I want prior to shooting. That may go back to my days of shooting weddings with a Hasselblad...I had a rapid focus lever on the lens & I put obvious markings along the ring of the lever so I could quickly move the focus & with a glance tell where it was. Not as fast as your system but it still worked! #Canongang!
Because with hyperfocal, you get much more depth of field, both in front and behind your subject. You don't need to focus at infinity to get infinity in focus, if that makes sense...
Чувак, спасибо за объяснение. Недавно купил Yashica FX-3 Super 2000 и не понимаю, как попасть в точный фокус при f-1.7 Репетира диафрагмы на фотоаппарате нет)
Do you have any tips for setting shutter speed/aperture when you're zone focusing? I'm newer to photography and doing this quickly is what I struggle with the most
@kuka. Well given that he personally discusses about purchases and makes recommendations to viewers who are watching for his review its disingenuous to say something but does the opposite.. Anyway whatever floats your boat lol.
@@mr_cramberry "disingenuous to say something but does the opposite.." Are you upset that he has changed his mind? LOL how childish you have to be to say that LMAO
@@bcegerton you can find adapters to pretty much any old lenses. Just Google the name of the lens mount of the old lens to Fuji x (for example "konica ar to Fuji x"). The adapters are pretty cheap. The konica lenses are good and cheap, there are probably better ones but im happy with the results!
As ‘Scotty’ from Star Trek would say and consistently pointed out; “You cannot change the Laws of Physics, Captain!” Please, please use the phrase ‘Accepted Sharpness’ on either side of the Focus Plane! ‘Zone Focusing’ isn’t the answer to a Maiden’s Prayer! Indeed, it a compromise ….! By the way ….. What? No mention about the f-stop? Or did I miss it?
Sorry to be a grammar cop but the better word might be “reactive” rather than “reactionary.” Good stuff though. Only video I’ve seen that deals with the three-ranges idea.
Doesnt really matter if its a leica. As long as you have the scale visable on the lens if i understand it correctly. Ofc its easier with a rangefinder at least since you have a shorter focus span
You can do this with any lens. Having scale marks will definitely help you understand how it works though. Since my Nikon modern lenses don't have any markings, it wasn't until I got back into shooting film as an adult that it started to make sense.
If anyone reading this is on a typical Autofocus style body (such as a Sony A7, etc).. you can do this as well. It won't be nearly as clean as seen here, where the lens is designed to really make it easy for you. BUT, you still have multiple options that work fantastic. One is adapting vintage lenses, which mirror the experience seen here pretty closely. Adapters are typically cheap, lenses are available for very cheap (My favorite- the Asahi Pentax 28/3.5 SMC Takumar- was $30). The other option is getting contemporary manual lenses manufactured for your exact mount. In the case of Sony, you have a few options... but the gold standards are Zeiss (Loxia) and Voigtlander. They are less fidgety and prone to aged-related wear than their vintage counterparts. Dialing in zone/range focus is very straight forward with modern manual lenses, where-as it might take some experimentation with vintage lenses. Everything else he talks about here still applies. Just keep in mind that the focus throw will not be as short and sweet. BUT, it may come with upsides as well. For instance, the Voigtlander 21/3.5 Color Skopar can focus very close. So it has a short throw for 1.5ft to infinity.. then a very long throw for under 1.5ft. We lose the ability to whip back to 2ft minimum distance at a hard stop like seen here... but we gain the ability to focus much closer. Similar quirks exist for many lenses (look into the Helios aperture limiter, for instance).
Anyway. A little ramble for those who may end up here and think they can't pursue this with their random modern cam ✌
You forgot to mention the crucial part that's the distance that would actually be in focus eg feet / metres at each of your three positions eg @4ft f16 what will be in focus would be roughly 3ft - 8ft that's why it's called zone focus. the extremities of the zone being softer focus.
Zone focusing works as long as you can guess how far a particular zone area is. I guess the real training is guessing your distances. Also with zone focusing you can forget shallow depth of fields, which I particularly don't use. I use f/5.6 and smaller in street photography.
Finally someone who explains zone focusing using a rangefinder camera without creating more confusion. Thank you.
Bro， your sample pictures are better than 99% of youtube film camera channel
Learned to dig zone focusing with my first love, the Lomo LC-A. Good tips man.
After viewing multiple zone focusing videos, THIS made it clear! THANK YOU!!!
Would it be correct to say that you shouldn't expect tack-sharp focus? I get the gist of mid- to high-aperature settings allowing for greater depths to appear in focus, but isn't it just that there's a wider gradient of slightly-to-very-to-genuinely in focus content based on their depth/distance from the focal plane?
With F16 and on the street with fast moving people how do you get a shutter speed of 1/500? You would need a very sensitive film like 3200 ISO?
I used zone focusing when I first started taking pictures but my interest led me to sports photography. I mastered manual focusing very quickly. This was before autofocus technology ;)
Tty
Thanks for the how-to video.
I have no problems tactile zone focusing with my 35mm lens on my Leica bodies. However, I do have problems with my other Leica lenses and with my other cameras. I probably just need to practice more with them.
I like the idea of zone focusing but the thing is, it only works well at f16 and f11. Maybe also f8 but then it gets more critical to estimate the distance to your subject correctly. So yea, for street photography you probably don’t want go go below f8 but in cloudy, rainy areas of Europe that‘s not always possible 😅
Try scale focusing by feel. Jae Rose made a video about it recently. You can get down to f/2.8 or f/4 with a 35mm or 28mm lens.
Back when I did street, I did a variation based on framing (full length, 3/4, and above waist length) in both horizontal and vertical orientations. It’s a lot easier to mentally tie the framing you want with a physical (unnumbered) distance than trying to get good at telling how many meters away everything is and where you should pull the focus tab for that distance.
You guys over there have to buy 800-3200 film. Or push some 400 if your camera permits.
He didn't mention enough about the f stop setting and iso Glad you guys mentioned it here.
Great tip. I found for those unique occasions that its best to remember where your infinity is on you lens as well as the minimum focus distance
Sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I was dumb lost the account password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Benicio Sterling instablaster =)
@Troy Blaine I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
thank you very much, great video
i recently got an old petri 7s II and the framing guides/focus guide are too faded to see, i will practice this method on my digital first
Good looks on the video...I just picked up a M10-P not too long ago after using the Q-P ...using manual focus has always been an issue for me because of my near sightedness...so been trying to practice zone focusing more and more these days...will definitely try out your tips after I get my Leica 28mm 👊👊
how do you know how many feet your subject is away from you without a tape measure?
Question - when mounting M lenses on an adaptor (for Fuji in this case), is the distance scale thrown off by the thickness of the adaptor? I find my M lenses don’t focus at infinity properly. Thanks
Thanks this was so simple. I just got a iiiF and wanted to zone focus with it.
Dude. You’re almost to 100k 🙌🏼
Excellent tutorial, just got a Leica SL2-S and will be using a 35mm f1.4 in manual focus. Never used manual focus so this zone focus tutorial was very helpful. Thanks Ian (UK)
subbed! I'm new to film, I went out last Tuesday and took about 7/36 shots, I'm so noob the film didn't even move. Too bad buuut got it working now, will try again the next time I leave the confines of my space haha. I learned a lot with your sunny 16 vids. Can't thank you enough for that. Cheers!
Thanks for the video (& for shooting film!). I am waiting on a few Russian rangefinders to play with but got an odd camera today with zone focus scale only. No distance, just "Close-ups", "Groups", & " Scenes". Might head to the city tomorrow and shoot a roll of B&W. I have one of those Keks light meters on order. How is it compared to the Voigtlander at half the price? Thanks again!
Can someone help me. Is this also applicable for a canonet QL17 with a 45mm lens?
Surely a lens is not at it's optimum performance at f16. Leica's are superb wide open. f8 is OK, I would be wary of f16. Do you find it works well? What ISO would you need at f16 because you might get camera shake or movement blur?
great video, you make focusing look so easy.
the 3 point system is helpful for me cus my Konica c35v only had 4 focus modes, 3 feet, 5 feet, 10 feet, and infinity😭
You forgot to talk about aperature for zone focusing. This technique is useless if someone is using fully open aperature.I expect you will explain to the guys how to do zone metering drawn on the lens
Its not useless it just means your zone will be very small with an open apeture (i.e f1.4-2.8 small zone vs f5.6-11 big zone)
Zone focus all the time with my Rollei 35!! 😊🤙🏼
Yeah man I'm going to try this this weekend!
Thanks.
This was a dope video. I got a Minolta X-700 about a year after I bought my first SLR (thanks to you 😎🤙🏽)
This is gonna help me tremendously. Thanks bro
f/8 and be there!
@@namaste597 old journo motto. Lens zone focused at f/8 and be in an interesting place.
I like your 3-point system! I've always looked at the distance scale on the lens to get it close to where I want prior to shooting. That may go back to my days of shooting weddings with a Hasselblad...I had a rapid focus lever on the lens & I put obvious markings along the ring of the lever so I could quickly move the focus & with a glance tell where it was. Not as fast as your system but it still worked! #Canongang!
try hyper-focal focusing. Its more forgiving than Zone focusing
Question 🙋♀️: how to get the right exposure when using zone focusing? 🙏🏼（ shutterspeed ？）
Use the sunny 16 rule to get correct exposure! KingJvpes has a vid on it as well, have a look for it on his channel.
Thanks, 79 just got M8, the video help me understand. 07/8/2022.
What about the influence of aperture?
how is this zone focusing? I thought it depends on your f/stop?
Can you explain which aperture you are using in zone focusing please? Thanks a lot
He's using f16
I first learned how to do this with a 1950s Voightlander Vito.
super helpful video! could you add info on m and cm next time? :) youll benefit much more people with this simple tweak! thank you!
I love this method! Lots of great tips here fam 👌🏾
actual video starts at 4:42
Best video I've seen on zone focusing. Thank you.
Loving it!!
what about if you want to shoot wide open?
Why go to infinity focus rather than hyperfocal distance?
Because with hyperfocal, you get much more depth of field, both in front and behind your subject. You don't need to focus at infinity to get infinity in focus, if that makes sense...
Чувак, спасибо за объяснение. Недавно купил Yashica FX-3 Super 2000 и не понимаю, как попасть в точный фокус при f-1.7 Репетира диафрагмы на фотоаппарате нет)
На f1.7 практически никак) все что объясняет автор уместно для диафрагм f8-f16. На открытых диафрагмах нужно наводиться вручную через видоискатель
Thanks for this. I’m kind of forced to learn this method because my rangefinder patch is missing lol.
Do you have any tips for setting shutter speed/aperture when you're zone focusing? I'm newer to photography and doing this quickly is what I struggle with the most
8.0 on aperture gives u a good start
Super helpful
So good! Thank you
Very well explained - many thanks !
Thanks for the tips
Awesome
Killing it man. Thanks for the simplicity. Hope you’re doing well! 👏👏👏
Do you have tips for a KS super II? i just got one, my first analog. I mean, i had a Lomo la Sardina but it doesn't count haha! :) Thanks!
Great video man, super helpful. Always wondered how people can be so fast while Street photographing and nail focus, so i guess this is how! Thanks!
I thought you were gonna sell your summicron from the previous video. Or was that click bait?
Even if that's the case, why do you even care.....?? It's none of your business lol
@@kokioi8640 he just asked, what are you mad about lmao
@@Lavi-Aemilia-Astori and I just gave my opinion lmao
@kuka. Well given that he personally discusses about purchases and makes recommendations to viewers who are watching for his review its disingenuous to say something but does the opposite..
Anyway whatever floats your boat lol.
@@mr_cramberry "disingenuous to say something but does the opposite.." Are you upset that he has changed his mind? LOL how childish you have to be to say that LMAO
great explanation. i really need a tab on my lens - is this something you can buy for non leica lenses?
Not 'acceptable focus' (focus is either achieved or not), but 'acceptable sharpness'.
Thank You for sharing!
Great info man! Suscribed
Thx man.
I've been waiting for your some upload videos to your channels, more need to learn coming from you. As always minolta gang....
Am I crazy or are your fire alarms chirping
Lol it's been going on in his videos for months. Definitely not crazy
It's honestly so irritating... tons of people have mentioned it, but he refuses to do anything about it.
@@godscola just irresponsible really
Yashica gang rise up!
I can maybe use this scale on my Pentax ( first 35mm SLR ) but could I use it on my Fuji XT3?
Depends on what lens you are using on the Fuji but i guess not unless you have a lens with the focusing scale on the lens. Not sure how if not.
@@Benjaminjohansson93 Yes, unless I marked it out, not something I want to do. I’ll leave it for my 35mm
@@bcegerton or maybe if you get an adapter and use old lenses 😁 ive tried it on my Fuji with old konica lenses, works great!
@@Benjaminjohansson93 Thanks for that, been wondering which lenses would fit, just no idea when it comes to adapters
@@bcegerton you can find adapters to pretty much any old lenses. Just Google the name of the lens mount of the old lens to Fuji x (for example "konica ar to Fuji x"). The adapters are pretty cheap. The konica lenses are good and cheap, there are probably better ones but im happy with the results!
As ‘Scotty’ from Star Trek would say and consistently pointed out; “You cannot change the Laws of Physics, Captain!”
Please, please use the phrase ‘Accepted Sharpness’ on either side of the Focus Plane!
‘Zone Focusing’ isn’t the answer to a Maiden’s Prayer! Indeed, it a compromise ….!
By the way ….. What? No mention about the f-stop? Or did I miss it?
Honestly: i can't hear this "squarespace" shit anymore :D
Sorry to be a grammar cop but the better word might be “reactive” rather than “reactionary.” Good stuff though. Only video I’ve seen that deals with the three-ranges idea.
When you live in cloudy Belgium and you have to shoot at 1/125 f 1.8 at ISO 100 even in the middle of the day
You gotta get yourself some 3200 speed film man.
FIRSTTTT
Man I wish I could do this with my camera, unfortunately it’s not a leica
Doesnt really matter if its a leica. As long as you have the scale visable on the lens if i understand it correctly. Ofc its easier with a rangefinder at least since you have a shorter focus span
You can do this with any lens. Having scale marks will definitely help you understand how it works though. Since my Nikon modern lenses don't have any markings, it wasn't until I got back into shooting film as an adult that it started to make sense.
@@atroche1978 @benjamin Johannson
I know guys, was just making a silly joke about the title
Great tips
It's called Range Focusing.
Working with old non rangefinder cameras you use it all the time. Simple and efficient most of those lenses are not fast anyway😂.
Good video, but add metrics. Feets are sus.
dude went from sleep walk to this
Your introduction is too long, so many references to other videos, asking to subscribe twice in a row... Just get to the point wth!