Every time I watch this series, I learn and find something new. Also as a friendly reminder I would totally buy the 1/4x1/4x1/4" grooving plane! Heck I'd buy two!
The reason you do not want the bit to bottom out is to allow full tightening. The taper varies by router brand, but is likely close to 3:1. This means you must push the collet into the socket 0.003” for every 0.001” of closure. If the bit is bottomed out it will cause a conflict. The tighter it gets, the friction stops the inward movement and the bit will not be tight. If the bit floats the collet will only need to slide against the socket. The connection will be much tighter.
When you tighten the collet it forces the male taper into the female taper hard enough to actually drive the bit. When you loosen it, the tapers are still stuck. Either tap it as you did, or twist the nut farther. The snap ring is there to pull the male taper out. You will find it easier to tighten and loosen if you arrange your wrenches such that you can grip both in the same hand. Last grip on the tightening, first grip on the loosening.
You don't want the shank of the bit touching the end because that metal on metal contact would act as a drill ower time and damage it. Try crossing the keys so you can squeeze them with one hand to get the bit out (it's easier and safer than pushing on them with both hands). Thank you for all the knowledge you are sharing!
Are you sure this is for a router? I think it will confuse itself with a utilitarian style end table at some point in time and not want go in to your shop. Probably think it's to fancy. Looking good.
Ken Surratt the whole idea is using shop equipment to practice. If all you do is pocket screw cabinets together you gain no experience so will be a complete newb when making what you built the shop to make.
Every time I watch this series, I learn and find something new. Also as a friendly reminder I would totally buy the 1/4x1/4x1/4" grooving plane! Heck I'd buy two!
You are a really good teacher !!!
It is a pleasure to watch your very candid style of teaching / sharing. Thanks man
Awesome teacher - Thanks
The reason you do not want the bit to bottom out is to allow full tightening. The taper varies by router brand, but is likely close to 3:1. This means you must push the collet into the socket 0.003” for every 0.001” of closure. If the bit is bottomed out it will cause a conflict. The tighter it gets, the friction stops the inward movement and the bit will not be tight. If the bit floats the collet will only need to slide against the socket. The connection will be much tighter.
When you tighten the collet it forces the male taper into the female taper hard enough to actually drive the bit. When you loosen it, the tapers are still stuck. Either tap it as you did, or twist the nut farther. The snap ring is there to pull the male taper out. You will find it easier to tighten and loosen if you arrange your wrenches such that you can grip both in the same hand. Last grip on the tightening, first grip on the loosening.
Inspiring work man! Thank you!
You don't want the shank of the bit touching the end because that metal on metal contact would act as a drill ower time and damage it.
Try crossing the keys so you can squeeze them with one hand to get the bit out (it's easier and safer than pushing on them with both hands).
Thank you for all the knowledge you are sharing!
All the best from a far away Serbia 🇷🇸 !
Thank you for sharing.
Looking good ....
Microjig has an adjustable foot so when pushing a piece through the cutter, the side touching the table, can keep the grripper level
👍😎
Are you sure this is for a router? I think it will confuse itself with a utilitarian style end table at some point in time and not want go in to your shop. Probably think it's to fancy.
Looking good.
Ken Surratt the whole idea is using shop equipment to practice. If all you do is pocket screw cabinets together you gain no experience so will be a complete newb when making what you built the shop to make.
Yep
Allen socket with adapter in small drill = rapid adjuster. 😉
Sean. I’m lost on the slot cutter. Can’t see it either. Hard to see. Too dark, not enough light.