I just fill my planting beds or buckets with raked leaves and green grass and weeds. I top with just enough dirt to get the tomatoes or potatoes started. I can always add more if it breaks down too much. When I harvest the potatoes the green matter is completely broken down and most of the leaves are, too. I refill the bucket with more green yard trimmings and brown leaves and some of the broken down leaves from the bucket I just harvested. I do this over and over. I'm getting more and more soil to fill my grow buckets. It breaks down in my buckets as I'm growing in it. It's a good way when you don't have the big equipment.
Cool, about the buckets. I prep my buckets and other containers with a Hugelkulter method: assorted rotting wood, leaves, sticks, etc. in the bottom,topped 3:37 by six or 8 inches of unsifted, Compost, and or forest soil!
I would usually have a 9x9x9 pile in November of mostly maple leaves. I would sprinkle in a 3 lb bag of bone meal through out the pile. Adding food scraps and whatever. Over the winter the rain and snow would add moisture. In late April and early May, I'd sift it through a pair of 1/4" screens. Mother nature does all the work.
Watching you drive your tracked vehicle is so satisfying lol. It's so dang efficient. I don't have one so it's nice to see someone not have to break the back to move material!
Fallen leaves are truly like gold dust for the gardens, terrific soil improvements. My dear friend collected leaves for me from her pavement, I could not go and help her with this as I was sick, then we just went and collected 5 municipal waste bags full. What a blessing. We can have so much with just a little effort and it is amazing what we can do if we set our minds to it. Happy days.
I get a many yards of leaves every year from my property and dump them in piles. I never turn or move the piles until I am ready to use them after they completely break down which takes several years. Moving or turning them is more work than I want to do; I can wait.
I have about 35 oak trees on my property and I use every bit of my leaves. During the garden season, they serve his great mulch and over the winter all that plus the new leaves gets turned into compost through the next spring works out great never have had to burn one leaf.😂
Illinois here....I do this right in my garden every fall. I generally use 30-40 bags of leaves spread about 2ft deep on the growing area, then I spread hay (which I season outside over the growing season) thickly over the leaves to hold them in place. By spring (planting time) I plant directly into the mix....No Weeds, very little watering needed.... Using what most people throw out!
@Mike590A1 That's an awesome system you've got going on! Using leaves and hay that way is such a smart way to build soil and suppress weeds. It’s great to hear that you’re making use of materials others might toss-turning waste into an incredible resource! It’s also impressive that by planting time, the mix is ready to go without much work. Mother Nature sure knows how to reward that kind of care. Thanks for sharing your approach-sounds like you’ve got a thriving, sustainable garden in Illinois!
You have black gold there! I watched This Old House years ago and a lady couldn't get grass to grow. They came out and started by dethatching and removing that material. Ther they plug aerated and seeded. The had a load of decomposed leaves that was like black powder that they just flung with shovels over the entire lawn. They didn't cover it just scattered it on the top of the ground. You should have seen the grass it grew in just weeks. It was amazing, but to buy tat material is seriously like gold! I started a pile two years ago and it doesn't take long. I back into it with my 60" tiller and then turn it. I don't have near the amount you created.
@smartwatchonpluto Thank you for the kind words! It means a lot to know that sharing these videos makes a difference. We're happy to be part of such a supportive and curious community-appreciate you watching and engaging!
Hi from France ,very interesting video !! 👍 I must say I use another very simple method : with my big mower i pick up all dead leaves (2/3) mixed with 1/3 last autumn grass, and I cover all the garden with 5 till 10 cm, a good ground protection against rain , and just after winter a lot of leaves have disappeared, rotted by grass nitrogen , without compacted ground. And the leaves don't fly with winter wind .A very light work without any tiredness , and good result 😃 . But I don't forget that it's essentially carbon intake .
@@FarleyMan151 Is there an easy way to make biochar? I only have about 1/3 of an acre. I do have a firepit, or I have room to dig a hole. I'm currently building a 10' x 14' GH out of douglas fir and polycarbonate panels.
My test planting of two tomato plants, radish, cucumbers and carrots in a bed of a mix of unfinished compost made of green grass clippings, chopped leaves, pine straw, some urine & forest soil along with a little organic soil with 20 soil microbes, some lime pellets, bone meal, and organic fertilizer are doing great. I surrounded the bed with old oak firewood chunks I found that had started decomposing.
@@kahvac It`s shrinking down. I`ve been adding to it since last November and kept it wet but it wasn`t fully broken down at planting time. I added about 2 inches of rich forest soil to the top before planting but it already had some mixed in. There was no soil in this yard so I had to begin making it.
@@baneverything5580 Sounds good. I have tons of wood chips some about six years old, it can look like soil and things will grow in it but it is not soil..I found out the hard way even when using fertilizer it still needs soil added for plants to grow as they should. You'll be fine !
To each tandem dump truck load I get I add 3 tractor buckets of fresh chicken and rabbit manure and mix it in, it composts almost completely in 3 months....of course every 3 weeks I flip the pile......the most beautiful black compost😊
@barrypetejr5655 That sounds like an amazing system you’ve got going! Adding fresh chicken and rabbit manure to your loads and flipping every three weeks is a recipe for some nutrient-rich, beautiful black compost. It’s incredible how quickly it breaks down when you keep things aerated and balanced like that. I bet your plants love it-nothing beats homemade compost for the garden! Great work, and thanks for sharing your process!
I have become the leaf whisperer in my little neck of the woods! LOL My husband built me a collection spot out of pallets about 4 years ago. Same with 9 large garden boxes. I am finally to the point of my leaf collection that I have a 2 year rotating system and use the oldest for my garden beds. 3 years ago, I got the OK from the neighbor who owns the awkwardly shaped and placed land with easements on it to let me put garden scraps and this year, 4 other neighbors with their mulched leaves, onto his property that touches my property. (About 300 feet wide.) Last year I had some leaves and 2 other neighbors leaves, but this year I think two more neighbors see how much easier it is to mulch theirs and bring it to the back of my yard rather than put it in the garbage bin. The owner is OK with it so long as I spread it out. I don't want to be a know it all Karen but I really really really want him to come over and let me show him just how great the soil looks now after one year. I know come spring the weeds will be next to nil and I won't have to keep them out of my garden. We live in the high desert with canal water to water our lawns and gardens. My neighbor's side property was thistly, dry, dusty and full of goat heads and other weeds. I am actually quite excited to see what it will be like in the spring. Do you think it is a bridge too far if I ask him if I can plant some of the maple saplings that I have been nurturing along? This side we share is on the north side of my property and I would love to have that backdrop of trees.
@boysrus61 Sounds like you’ve built an amazing community project right there in your neighborhood! Your setup with the leaf collection and mulched leaves is incredible, especially in the high desert where soil improvement can be a real challenge. It’s great to hear how much progress you’ve made and how it’s already changing the landscape. I think inviting your neighbor to see the transformation is a wonderful idea-showing him the soil improvement might really impress him. As for the maple saplings, it doesn’t seem like a bridge too far to ask! If he’s already on board with the leaf mulching and sees the benefits, he may very well appreciate the idea of a natural tree backdrop as much as you would. You’re turning that area into a real sanctuary-keep up the amazing work!
Sounds like I'm in the same area. My rental has horrible dirt and bare spots. I'm mulching my leaves and spreading over bare spots with old compost sprinkled over 🤞🏻 I need to get more leaves but we've had too much rain so when the other tree leaves fall I'll just leave them. Put a ton in my flower/vegetable bed too.
Tractor makes that process fun. Doing this by hand with a shovel is difficult, hard to get everything turned and mixed properly. I have leaf piles that are a couple years old and still not completely soil yet.
Absolutely, using a tractor definitely makes the process much more manageable and efficient! It allows for thorough mixing and turning, which is crucial for the decomposition process. When done by hand, it can be quite labor-intensive and time-consuming, and it can be difficult to ensure that all the materials are properly aerated and mixed. Leaf piles can take a long time to break down into soil if they’re not turned and mixed regularly. This is because the microorganisms responsible for decomposition need oxygen, moisture, and a balanced carbon-to-nitrogen ratio to work efficiently. Without regular turning, the pile can become compacted and anaerobic, slowing down the decomposition process. If you’re looking for ways to speed up the process without a tractor, here are a few tips: Turn the Pile Regularly: Use a pitchfork or garden fork to turn the pile every few weeks to incorporate air. Add Nitrogen-Rich Materials: Mix in green materials like grass clippings or kitchen scraps to balance the carbon-rich leaves. Monitor Moisture Levels: Ensure the pile stays moist but not waterlogged. It should feel like a wrung-out sponge. Shred the Leaves: Shredded leaves break down faster than whole leaves. Consider using a leaf shredder or lawn mower to chop them up before composting. We’re all working towards the same goal of creating rich, healthy soil, and sometimes it just takes a bit of patience and persistence. Keep at it, and your leaf piles will eventually transform into valuable soil for your garden. Thanks for sharing your experience!
I’ve been doing this with leaves for years. I don’t get any from my municipality because I don’t know if roundup was used on the properties that they got them from. I only take leaves from trusted sources.
I can turn a bucket of compost into gold in a very short time. I will add meat material. Leave it open for a couple days . Inviting the soldier flys in close the lid and wait. They do amazing decomposing work. Never had an animal issue.
When you move your compost pile of composted leaves, why don't you plant directly into the ground and use that patch to grow a crop on as it will already be composted by nutrients leached from your compost heap and the small amount of compost you will always leave behind.
@michaelmayes9689 That’s a great suggestion! Planting directly into the enriched soil under a compost pile is definitely an efficient way to make use of those nutrients. For me, the composted leaves are a key ingredient in creating high-quality soil for my gardens and nursery, so I tend to move the pile and blend it into other areas. That said, your idea is something I’ll be exploring in upcoming videos and articles. There’s so much potential in leveraging the natural nutrient cycle for planting directly-stay tuned for more insights on this!
@johnduffy6546 Haha, good luck with that! Just tell Santa it’s not just a toy-it’s a necessity! Skid steers make life so much easier on the homestead. Fingers crossed he comes through for you this year!
I'm Lucky there are lots of brush turkeys in my area (NSW AU) they create their nest by basically gathering huge piles of mostly leaves and any other forest floor debris once they have hatched their young they leave these piles to breakdown and im able to cross a river and have access to tons of free leaf breakdown
Hi @raff6636! That sounds fantastic! Brush turkeys are definitely helpful little workers in your area. It's great that you can take advantage of their nest-building habits to access such a rich source of leaf breakdown. Nature's composters at their finest! Enjoy that free, nutrient-rich material for your garden. It's always amazing to see how wildlife and gardening can complement each other so perfectly. Happy gardening! 🌿🦃
Cảm ơn cháu rất nhiều vì lời khen dễ thương! Chú rất vui khi biết cháu cũng mê trồng cây giống chú. Lá khô không chỉ là "rác" mà còn là nguồn tài nguyên quý giá để tạo ra đất giàu dinh dưỡng cho cây trồng. Chú thường gom lá khô lại, ủ thành phân hữu cơ để nuôi đất và cây trên farm của chú. Nếu cháu có không gian, cháu cũng có thể thử làm cách này - vừa tốt cho môi trường, vừa giúp cây phát triển mạnh mẽ hơn. Chúc cháu luôn thành công và vui vẻ với niềm đam mê trồng cây của mình nhé! Nếu có thắc mắc gì về trồng cây, cứ hỏi, chú sẽ cố gắng chia sẻ kinh nghiệm của mình. 😊🌱
Thank you for the reminder! 🪱 Jumping worms are definitely a concern, and we take them seriously. We’re very careful about screening everything that comes onto the property-whether it’s soil, mulch, or plants-to minimize the risk of introducing them. Preventing their spread is a key part of maintaining healthy soil and ecosystems, so we stay vigilant and follow best practices to keep them at bay. Appreciate you looking out for us! 🌱
Here in Toronto we have lots of deciduous trees, and in fall people put their leaves into big yard waste bags for pickup by the city. I pick up these bags (well over 100 over a period of 3-4 weeks) and spread them several inches deep over my 2500 sq. foot vegetable garden. Looks like hell, and not much happens over the winter. In spring I move the leaves as needed off my planting rows ... lots of big fat earthworms underneath! By midsummer the leaves have almost completely disappeared. I also run large quantities of dry leaves through my old chipper-shredder, and dump them into a 10 cubic yard open-top storage bin. (The leaves must be dry, otherwise they plug up the chipper.) Also into this bin go wood chips from my tree trimmings, shredded bark from splitting firewood, etc. This material partially decomposes over the winter, and the following year I use it liberally for mulch around my vegetables. The plants love it, and by the end of the summer it too disappears into the soil. I have followed this routine for 20 years, and the soil and plant results are incredible. In my opinion leaves are like brown gold.
That sounds like an excellent system! Your method of collecting and utilizing leaves is a fantastic example of sustainable gardening. It's amazing how much organic matter you can process and incorporate into your garden. The presence of earthworms is a clear sign that your soil is thriving and healthy. I've also found that using leaves as mulch and then incorporating them into the soil greatly benefits plant health and soil structure. It's like having a continuous composting system right in the garden. Kudos to you for maintaining this routine for 20 years - the results must be truly remarkable! Leaves are indeed "brown gold" for the garden. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Yes, it is generally okay to include chestnut hulls in your compost along with leaves, but there are a few considerations to keep in mind to ensure the composting process is effective: Benefits of Adding Chestnut Hulls: Nutrient Contribution: Chestnut hulls can add valuable nutrients to your compost, including potassium and phosphorus, which are beneficial for plant growth. Organic Matter: Hulls contribute to the overall organic matter in your compost, helping improve soil structure when the compost is used in the garden. Considerations: Decomposition Rate: Chestnut hulls are quite tough and woody, which means they decompose more slowly compared to softer materials like leaves. To accelerate decomposition, it's a good idea to chop or shred the hulls before adding them to the compost pile. Balance of Greens and Browns: Ensure you maintain a good balance of greens (nitrogen-rich materials) and browns (carbon-rich materials). Leaves are typically brown, and chestnut hulls would also fall into the brown category. You may need to add more green materials (like kitchen scraps, grass clippings, or manure) to keep the composting process active. Moisture Management: Because hulls are more resistant to breaking down, they might cause the compost pile to dry out if not mixed well. Regularly check the moisture level and turn the pile to ensure even decomposition. Potential Allelopathic Effects: Some nut hulls, such as black walnut, contain compounds that can inhibit the growth of certain plants. Chestnut hulls do not have strong allelopathic properties, but it’s always good to compost them fully before using the finished product in your garden to avoid any potential issues. Tips for Effective Composting with Chestnut Hulls: Shredding: Shred the chestnut hulls to increase their surface area, which helps speed up the decomposition process. Layering: Layer the hulls with other compost materials to ensure they are well-mixed. Alternate between layers of green and brown materials. Turning: Regularly turn your compost pile to introduce oxygen and help break down the hulls and other materials evenly. Monitoring: Keep an eye on the moisture content and add water if the pile becomes too dry. The compost should be moist but not soggy. By managing your compost pile effectively, chestnut hulls can be a beneficial addition, contributing to the nutrient content and organic matter of your finished compost.
Great video.. thanks.. do you think adding some wood chips would speed the leaves to break down just as the broken down leaf mold does? I Have more wood chips and not so many leaves... yet!
I think it is possible to speed up the breakdown of wood chips by inoculate them with fungi from other wood chips that have been breaking down. I used forest floor debris to inoculate a pile of wood chips in the past I'm not certain that it's sped up the process however I think it may have because of the number of mushrooms that came out the next spring.
Wood chips are a source of carbon. It would be beneficial to add green materials like grass clippings, manure, or blood meal. Nitrogen in green materials is essential because it jumpstarts microbial activity, balances the C ratio, raises compost pile temperatures, and helps decompose tough carbonaceous materials. In essence, nitrogen serves as a catalyst for microbial growth, enabling microbes to efficiently break down carbon-rich materials through these biochemical reactions. The presence of nitrogen allows microbes to build the necessary proteins and enzymes, thereby enhancing the breakdown of carbon in a continuous cycle that produces both heat and nutrient-rich compost.
Yes and it helps me reduce the number of stones that I have to pick out of the finished product. It also helps to keep the lower part of the pile from going anaerobic if we get a lot of rain. The organisms need oxygen.
I have acres of pine and oak, unfortunately it makes my soil very acidic. I have learned to adjust the ph using clay. The only problem here is unless I place leaves in screened areas, the snakes bed in the piles and unfortunately they are the poisonous kind.
Thanks for sharing your experience! Dealing with acidic soil from pine and oak can be a challenge, but it sounds like you’ve found a smart solution with clay. As for the snakes, that’s definitely a tricky situation-safety first! The reptiles are likely seeking out the warmth generated by the piles as the leaves break down, which makes them an attractive spot. Screened areas are a great idea to keep the piles contained and discourage unwanted guests. Maybe elevating the piles slightly or turning them more frequently could help too. Stay safe out there, and good luck with your soil and leaves!
Thank you! 😊 It’s taken some practice, but I’ve learned a lot working with this machine. It’s a real game-changer for getting the job done efficiently! Appreciate the kind words. 🚜💪
@@GrowingABetterTomorrow You earned it. I am thinking of looking for a use one to take of needs at land. My leveled area is fractured basalt rock, so that is a challenge.
@cathyplantlover2862 Thanks, Cathy! I'm glad you think so! Turning leaves into soil has been a game-changer for us. It's a great way to recycle organic material and enrich our soil naturally. Have you tried anything similar in your garden?
The leave method is hard to beat. Its the easiest thing to get your hands on and your dumb neighbors are paying to bag it and haul it off... The world really is broken
Great question! I actually have a video coming up soon that will cover this topic in detail, so stay tuned! In the meantime, you can check out the article on our website titled "Inoculating Compost Systems: A Dive into Vermicast, IMO, JADAM, Biodynamic Preps, and Johnson-Su" for an in-depth look at different inoculation methods. It explains how these systems introduce beneficial microbes to enhance soil health and composting. You’ll find it at mindfullivingsanctuary.com. Let me know if you have any specific questions!
I have 2 micro forests on my 2 acres. one in front and one in the back. Probably 15 large trees incl. oaks. I would think the soil beneath them would be excellent from years of leaves falling/composting, but it's pretty unimpressive clay like the rest of my property. Why is that? Shouldn't the soil in these areas be amazing?
Hey @jonas3333, that's a great setup you have with your micro forests! It does seem logical that years of leaves would lead to rich soil, but there are a few reasons clay can still dominate the profile. Clay's dense structure makes it difficult for organic matter to penetrate deeply and alter the soil’s texture, especially when tree roots are competing for nutrients. One way to improve the soil is by adding a thick layer of wood chips or other natural mulches around the base of your trees. Wood chips help by slowly breaking down and adding organic matter, which improves soil structure and promotes beneficial fungi that work symbiotically with the tree roots. Over time, this can lead to a much richer, loamier soil as the organic material builds up and integrates, loosening the clay and enhancing drainage and nutrient retention. Thanks for sharing about your micro forests-it's always inspiring to see others dedicated to creating diverse, natural spaces!
The nearly finished leaf mold from the old pile has already been used around the farm, especially for potting, transplanting trees and bushes, and top-dressing trees in our three food forests. We go through quite a bit of this material each week! Also, with this lasagna layering method, we don’t need to add much from the previous batch to get great results. If the piles are managed well, a little inoculant goes a long way.
When I was a kid they used to take a pitchfork fishing where the Platte and Missouri meet in Nebraska there used to be worms every time you turned the soil... Now you gotta buy worms because there ain't any there... Fishing has gotten so bad too. The last 30 years have taken a toll on this world.
The world really went crazy when Trump got elected, then along came Biden, Covid, the border…. I love worms, can cultivate them but the crazy things going on in the world right now is unbelievable.
I just turned that new pile yesterday. I keep the thermometers in it to monitor the temperature. Temperature doesn't get very high but gets to about 100° f in about 2 weeks I'll probably turn it again. Thanks for asking
I take my yard vacuum and shred part of the leaves before winter hits, it provides nice insulation for the sleeping plants and by spring I reshred and re-lay the leaves so it helps to keep the moisture in the beds then I can add mulch or compost if another kind. It all ends up breaking down and builds the soil. I have so many worms in my soil I don't want to plant in it anymore for fear of chopping them up.I think people tend to overthink compost, go look under the debree in the woods. Gorgeous soil and no one had a hand in it. Mother nature provided everything necessary. Blessings for a gorgeous natural garden.
Thank you for your question, Robin. The leaves we use come from a location very close to our farm, and we have verified that there is no spraying done on them. Typically, there's no reason to spray leaves in the fall, and we've been careful to ensure the source is safe. We always recommend being aware of where your compost materials come from, but in this case, we feel confident that the leaves are free from any harmful chemicals. If you have any more questions or concerns, feel free to ask!
No I don't do any shopping or shredding of the leaf matter or of weeds for that matter. The system works very well. You can see the videos that I created in the fall and winter when I first got the leaf material in the process of turning it a few times.
Hi @MrWookie21! That's an interesting question. While humans have certainly refined the concept of piling organic material for composting or mulching, similar processes occur naturally in nature. For instance, in forests, organic matter accumulates on the forest floor as leaves, branches, and other plant materials decompose over time. This natural decomposition process enriches the soil with essential nutrients and creates a fertile environment for plant growth. So, while we may have formalized the practice, the idea of piling organic material to improve soil fertility is rooted in nature itself.
@johnblay155, you're absolutely right! Water is crucial for speeding up the composting process, especially for leaf mold. It helps to break down the materials faster and encourages microbial activity. Thanks for highlighting this important step!
Wow, what a boon. Ten wheeler's full!!! Those trees bring up nutrients from deep, deep in the earth, put them in the leaves then dump 'em on the ground. Talk about good mulch and compost! I need to find a source like that! Unfortunately, your leaves are haunted though....... Don't visit them at night on a full moon. Heh.....
Hi @3Sphere, Absolutely, those truckloads of leaves are like gold for our garden! It's amazing how trees draw up nutrients from deep in the soil and then deposit them in their leaves, which become nutrient-rich mulch and compost when they fall to the ground. It's nature's way of recycling and enriching the soil. Finding a good source of leaves can make a huge difference in your gardening efforts. And as for the haunted leaves, we'll be sure to keep an eye out for any supernatural activity on full moon nights! Thanks for the fun comment! Best, Kevin
Mulch and leaves brought in from other properties is a prime method of exponential asian jumping worm expansion Once a property gets infested there is no going back.
If you're adding nitrogen (kitchen scraps) to your leaf pile, then how is it a fungal process producing leaf mold? The food scraps attract bacteria, which produces compost, not leaf mold. No?
You're right to point out the distinction between composting and leaf mold production. While adding kitchen scraps to the leaf pile can indeed introduce nitrogen and accelerate the decomposition process through bacterial activity, our approach to leaf mold is slightly different. Leaf mold is primarily a fungal process, and it typically occurs when leaves are left to decompose under conditions that favor fungal growth, such as high humidity and low oxygen levels. The key is to balance the carbon (leaves) with just enough nitrogen (from green materials or kitchen scraps) to keep the pile active without overwhelming it with bacteria. In our process, we aim to maintain this balance to promote fungal activity, which is essential for producing that fine, crumbly leaf mold. You can see in our video how we manage the pile, using a mix of leaves and occasional kitchen scraps, ensuring that we maintain the right conditions for both fungi and bacteria to work together, albeit with a slight bias towards fungal decomposition. Thanks for bringing up this important point!
When considering purchasing a tractor as a beginner gardener, the first step is to define what you need the tractor to do for you. This will depend on your farming or gardening activities and future plans. For example: Market Gardening: If you're growing a variety of crops for market sales, you may need a compact tractor with versatile attachments like a tiller, plow, or a PTO-driven implement to help with tasks like bed preparation or planting. Compost Management: A small or mid-sized tractor with a front-end loader or bucket will help you manage large compost piles by moving material easily. Hauling Material: For hauling logs, mulch, or other materials, consider a tractor with a loader or forks. It’s important to think about whether you will be moving material frequently or just occasionally. Snow Removal: If you need a tractor for winter work, look for one that can handle a snowblower or plow, ensuring it has enough power to manage snow in the areas you frequent. Mowing and Plowing: If you're working in fields or forests, your tractor should be powerful enough to run a mower, plow, or a brush cutter for land management. It's also important to consider: Tractor Size: What size tractor do you need based on your available space and tasks? A smaller tractor may be more maneuverable and economical, while a larger tractor can handle heavier tasks. Usage: How many hours a week will you use the tractor? If it’s a tool you’ll use often, investing in a higher-quality or more powerful model might be worth it. Income Generation: If your work generates income (e.g., market gardening), investing in a more capable tractor might be a good choice for improving efficiency. Do your research on different tractor brands and models that match your needs. Popular brands like John Deere, Kubota, and New Holland offer options for small farms, but be sure to match the tractor’s capabilities with your tasks. Consulting with local dealers and experienced farmers can also provide valuable insight into the best tractor for your situation.
"Soil" is made up of a combination of clay, silt and sand. These three forms of rock are INORGANIC materials, meaning they have never been part of a living organism. Fallen leaves (and flowers, fruits, etc.) , on the other hand, are ORGANIC material, meaning they were once part of a living organism. They are broken down (composted) by micro organisms on the upper soil layer. When this composting process is complete, two elements are produced: CO2 (carbon dioxide) and H2O (water vapor. Both these elements are released into the atmosphere. Organic material cannot become "soil" (inorganic material). When one lays down a layer of mulch or compost in their garden and notices that it gradually disappears over time, what one is seeing is composting process where the material is dissipating into the atmosphere, not down into the ground (the soil).
Thank you for your thoughtful comment! 🌱 You’ve highlighted an important distinction between inorganic soil particles (clay, silt, and sand) and organic matter like leaves, flowers, and compost. While it's true that organic material doesn't become "soil" in the strict sense of inorganic particles, its role in creating healthy soil is vital. Organic matter doesn’t just dissipate into the atmosphere during decomposition. In addition to releasing CO2 and water vapor, a portion of it is transformed into humus, a stable, carbon-rich substance. Humus integrates into the soil structure, improving its ability to retain moisture, support microbial life, and provide nutrients. When we discuss soil, we’re not simply talking about inorganic vs. organic materials; we’re talking about an ecosystem that plants need to survive. Soil is alive, teeming with microorganisms that play a crucial role in cycling nutrients and building the structure plants depend on. These microorganisms need organic material to thrive. In turn, they create a balanced soil structure that allows for proper water retention, aeration, and root support. Mulch or compost disappearing over time is part of this dynamic process, where organic material is consumed by soil life and transformed into resources plants can use. This is why adding organic matter is essential in regenerative farming and gardening-it sustains the ecosystem within the soil that makes plant life possible. Thanks again for opening up this important discussion! 🌿
@YourAashique Thanks for tuning in! Hope you found the video helpful, no matter what time zone you're in. Turning leaves into soil is truly a global topic-happy composting!
I believe its because of limited space, gradually the guys have gotten to know me and the things we do and they feel good about someone using the material as valuable resource.
Thanks for your comment! I understand your concern about the cost of equipment, storage, and maintenance. While it's true that these factors can add up, there are a few key points to consider: Long-term Savings: The initial investment in equipment can be offset by the long-term benefits of producing high-quality compost for our garden. This reduces the need for purchasing commercial compost and fertilizers. Sustainability: Turning leaves into soil helps us recycle organic matter that would otherwise go to waste, promoting a more sustainable and eco-friendly gardening practice. Efficiency: With the right equipment, the process of breaking down leaves into soil is much faster and more efficient, allowing us to keep up with our gardening needs. Customization: Making our own compost allows us to control the quality and composition, ensuring the best possible results for our specific gardening conditions. Multi-functionality: The equipment we use for composting also serves multiple purposes, including construction projects and earthworks. This versatility helps justify the investment, as the machinery is not limited to a single function. While it's not for everyone, for those of us deeply invested in our gardening projects, the benefits can definitely outweigh the costs. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts!
I can't get much in the way of leaves but scrounge every bit of organic matter I can & add shredded brown cardboard for additional carbon. My total area under cultivation is only 75m²/90yd² excluding paths (these have a 5cm/2" layer of chipped prunings & branches applied annually). As I'm no dig/no till, I apply 2.5cm/1" of compost every year & this alone requires 1.8m³/2.5yd³ plus more for 30 potato tubs, potting on, decorative planters... Last year, I managed to make more than I needed, so I'm letting it age more & will steam sterilise to use for seed sowing.
@din75cschmoo Haha, I hear you! Turning compost by hand is no joke-it’s a serious workout! Believe me, I've been there. A Bobcat definitely makes life easier, but there’s something rewarding about the old-fashioned way too. Keep at it, and maybe one day you’ll have some heavy machinery of your own to make the job a bit lighter!
Thank you for your comment! While it's true that half a year might seem typical for a compost pile, our demonstration was specifically focused on the process of transforming leaves into leaf mold (not a compost video). Leaf mold naturally takes longer than thermophilic composting due to its reliance on fungal decomposition rather than bacterial heat generation. We've made numerous videos on thermophilic composting, which can break down organic material much more quickly, often within a few weeks. Leaf mold, however, is a different product with unique benefits, particularly for soil structure and moisture retention. Each process has its own timeline and advantages, and we enjoy sharing the diversity of composting methods with our viewers. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your comment! While it’s true that the composting process involves the release of some carbon dioxide as organic matter breaks down, this doesn't mean that compost doesn't contribute to soil formation. Here's why: Compost Enriches Soil: Compost is a crucial component in building healthy soil. When organic matter like compost is added to soil, it enhances the soil structure, improves water retention, and increases nutrient availability for plants. Nutrient Cycle: Composting is part of the natural nutrient cycle. While some carbon is released as CO2 during decomposition, the remaining organic matter becomes humus-a stable, nutrient-rich material that is essential for soil health. Humus helps to bind soil particles together, creating a crumbly texture that improves aeration and root penetration. Soil Microorganisms: Compost introduces and supports a diverse population of beneficial microorganisms in the soil. These microbes continue to break down organic matter, cycling nutrients and contributing to the formation of rich, fertile soil. Organic Matter: Adding compost to soil increases its organic matter content. Organic matter is a key component of soil, contributing to its physical, chemical, and biological properties. It helps to retain moisture, reduce erosion, and provide a slow-release source of nutrients for plants. Carbon Sequestration: While some carbon is released during composting, the process also sequesters carbon in the form of stable organic matter in the soil. This helps mitigate climate change by storing carbon in the soil rather than releasing it all into the atmosphere. In summary, composting is a vital process that not only recycles organic waste but also plays a significant role in building and maintaining healthy soil. The end product, compost, enriches the soil, supports plant growth, and contributes to sustainable gardening and agriculture practices. So, while some carbon is indeed released during decomposition, the benefits of compost in creating and enhancing soil far outweigh this aspect.
While we can't replicate the exact complexity of natural soil formed over centuries, we can certainly create a soil-like medium that supports plant growth. By mixing mineral components (sand, silt, clay) with organic matter (compost, leaf mold), and ensuring proper aeration and nutrient balance, we can produce a healthy, fertile growing medium. This process mimics natural soil formation and provides the necessary conditions for plants to thrive. So, yes, we can create soil that meets the needs of our gardens and landscapes!
Leaf mold and compost both contribute valuable properties to soil, but they are different. Leaf mold is made from decomposed leaves and is excellent for improving soil structure and moisture retention, whereas compost is made from a variety of decomposed organic materials (kitchen scraps, garden waste) and is rich in nutrients. Together, they create a well-rounded, fertile soil mix. So, yes, we can create soil that meets the needs of our gardens and landscapes!
Absolutely wrong, if you didn't learn anything from this then you already know what's being done here or you are not capable of learning or don't want to. Tractor, shovel or turning bin, doesn't matter how big.
Hi @indrekkpringi, I understand your frustration, but creating soil from leaves doesn’t necessarily require heavy machinery like a tractor. There are several simpler, more accessible methods that can be just as effective: Composting Pile: You can create a compost pile in your backyard. It doesn’t require any machinery, just some space, and a bit of effort. By regularly turning the pile with a pitchfork or shovel, you can help the decomposition process along. Leaf Mold: Another method is to make leaf mold. Simply gather leaves in a pile or a bin, keep them moist, and let them decompose naturally over time. This process takes longer but requires minimal effort and no machinery. Mulching: You can also use leaves directly as mulch. Spread them over your garden beds to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Over time, they will break down and enrich the soil. While it may seem daunting, starting small and being consistent can yield great results without the need for heavy equipment. Happy gardening! 🌿
@@GrowingABetterTomorrow I have places where I pile up the leaves every autumn for years and they don't turn into soil here in Quebec and it rains a lot here... BTW: with a 6-7 month winter, the decomposing only happens for 4 months, and there are no earth worms here in the Laurentions; just granite and trees. So the lesson is: don't assume something works everywhere; there are exceptions for everything.
I just fill my planting beds or buckets with raked leaves and green grass and weeds. I top with just enough dirt to get the tomatoes or potatoes started. I can always add more if it breaks down too much. When I harvest the potatoes the green matter is completely broken down and most of the leaves are, too. I refill the bucket with more green yard trimmings and brown leaves and some of the broken down leaves from the bucket I just harvested.
I do this over and over.
I'm getting more and more soil to fill my grow buckets. It breaks down in my buckets as I'm growing in it.
It's a good way when you don't have the big equipment.
Fantastic job
Cool, about the buckets. I prep my buckets and other containers with a Hugelkulter method: assorted rotting wood, leaves, sticks, etc. in the bottom,topped 3:37 by six or 8 inches of unsifted, Compost, and or forest soil!
Don’t use yard trimmings if you use a lot of chemicals and fertilizers in your grass. Only natural grass fertilizers are safe to use.
I would usually have a 9x9x9 pile in November of mostly maple leaves. I would sprinkle in a 3 lb bag of bone meal through out the pile. Adding food scraps and whatever. Over the winter the rain and snow would add moisture. In late April and early May, I'd sift it through a pair of 1/4" screens. Mother nature does all the work.
leaf mold soil is almost always over 7 ph without added calcium
Tomatoes need lots of calcium or you get blossom end rot.@glen.simpson
Excellent set up! Leaves are black gold! Wonderful to have such a resource!
Watching you drive your tracked vehicle is so satisfying lol. It's so dang efficient. I don't have one so it's nice to see someone not have to break the back to move material!
Compost is a "Long Game" strategy. So beneficial when done right.
I make 40yrd of finished compost every 6 months
@@antwain7942 Woaah!
@@3Sphere it takes a lot of n2. Some sugar and a good amount of water. I turn it every 4 weeks. I couldn’t do it if I didn’t have a tractor.
Fallen leaves are truly like gold dust for the gardens, terrific soil improvements. My dear friend collected leaves for me from her pavement, I could not go and help her with this as I was sick, then we just went and collected 5 municipal waste bags full. What a blessing. We can have so much with just a little effort and it is amazing what we can do if we set our minds to it. Happy days.
I love watching the transformation of my compost pile.
I get a many yards of leaves every year from my property and dump them in piles. I never turn or move the piles until I am ready to use them after they completely break down which takes several years. Moving or turning them is more work than I want to do; I can wait.
Machine operator artistry at its finest! Nice dirt too. 👍
I have about 35 oak trees on my property and I use every bit of my leaves. During the garden season, they serve his great mulch and over the winter all that plus the new leaves gets turned into compost through the next spring works out great never have had to burn one leaf.😂
Illinois here....I do this right in my garden every fall. I generally use 30-40 bags of leaves spread about 2ft deep on the growing area, then I spread hay (which I season outside over the growing season) thickly over the leaves to hold them in place.
By spring (planting time) I plant directly into the mix....No Weeds, very little watering needed....
Using what most people throw out!
@Mike590A1 That's an awesome system you've got going on! Using leaves and hay that way is such a smart way to build soil and suppress weeds. It’s great to hear that you’re making use of materials others might toss-turning waste into an incredible resource! It’s also impressive that by planting time, the mix is ready to go without much work. Mother Nature sure knows how to reward that kind of care. Thanks for sharing your approach-sounds like you’ve got a thriving, sustainable garden in Illinois!
You have black gold there! I watched This Old House years ago and a lady couldn't get grass to grow. They came out and started by dethatching and removing that material. Ther they plug aerated and seeded. The had a load of decomposed leaves that was like black powder that they just flung with shovels over the entire lawn. They didn't cover it just scattered it on the top of the ground. You should have seen the grass it grew in just weeks. It was amazing, but to buy tat material is seriously like gold! I started a pile two years ago and it doesn't take long. I back into it with my 60" tiller and then turn it. I don't have near the amount you created.
Just want to thank you and others that share these
@smartwatchonpluto Thank you for the kind words! It means a lot to know that sharing these videos makes a difference. We're happy to be part of such a supportive and curious community-appreciate you watching and engaging!
Hi from France ,very interesting video !! 👍 I must say I use another very simple method : with my big mower i pick up all dead leaves (2/3) mixed with 1/3 last autumn grass, and I cover all the garden with 5 till 10 cm, a good ground protection against rain , and just after winter a lot of leaves have disappeared, rotted by grass nitrogen , without compacted ground. And the leaves don't fly with winter wind .A very light work without any tiredness , and good result 😃 . But I don't forget that it's essentially carbon intake .
I just started doing the same htis fall: can't wait to see how it turns out!
@@chriswise9674 I've been doing this for a few decades. It works well. I also use biochar.
@@FarleyMan151 Is there an easy way to make biochar? I only have about 1/3 of an acre. I do have a firepit, or I have room to dig a hole. I'm currently building a 10' x 14' GH out of douglas fir and polycarbonate panels.
@@chriswise9674 Best method that I know of: th-cam.com/video/PtnRdVHTSe4/w-d-xo.html
My test planting of two tomato plants, radish, cucumbers and carrots in a bed of a mix of unfinished compost made of green grass clippings, chopped leaves, pine straw, some urine & forest soil along with a little organic soil with 20 soil microbes, some lime pellets, bone meal, and organic fertilizer are doing great. I surrounded the bed with old oak firewood chunks I found that had started decomposing.
It will be even better next year !
@@kahvac It`s shrinking down. I`ve been adding to it since last November and kept it wet but it wasn`t fully broken down at planting time. I added about 2 inches of rich forest soil to the top before planting but it already had some mixed in. There was no soil in this yard so I had to begin making it.
@@baneverything5580 Sounds good. I have tons of wood chips some about six years old, it can look like soil and things will grow in it but it is not soil..I found out the hard way even when using fertilizer it still needs soil added for plants to grow as they should. You'll be fine !
lol love your picture
I am very impressed by your video Kevin, especially because you take the time to reply to those who comment. 👍
Great scooping skills.
To each tandem dump truck load I get I add 3 tractor buckets of fresh chicken and rabbit manure and mix it in, it composts almost completely in 3 months....of course every 3 weeks I flip the pile......the most beautiful black compost😊
@barrypetejr5655 That sounds like an amazing system you’ve got going! Adding fresh chicken and rabbit manure to your loads and flipping every three weeks is a recipe for some nutrient-rich, beautiful black compost. It’s incredible how quickly it breaks down when you keep things aerated and balanced like that. I bet your plants love it-nothing beats homemade compost for the garden! Great work, and thanks for sharing your process!
I have become the leaf whisperer in my little neck of the woods! LOL My husband built me a collection spot out of pallets about 4 years ago. Same with 9 large garden boxes. I am finally to the point of my leaf collection that I have a 2 year rotating system and use the oldest for my garden beds. 3 years ago, I got the OK from the neighbor who owns the awkwardly shaped and placed land with easements on it to let me put garden scraps and this year, 4 other neighbors with their mulched leaves, onto his property that touches my property. (About 300 feet wide.) Last year I had some leaves and 2 other neighbors leaves, but this year I think two more neighbors see how much easier it is to mulch theirs and bring it to the back of my yard rather than put it in the garbage bin. The owner is OK with it so long as I spread it out. I don't want to be a know it all Karen but I really really really want him to come over and let me show him just how great the soil looks now after one year. I know come spring the weeds will be next to nil and I won't have to keep them out of my garden. We live in the high desert with canal water to water our lawns and gardens. My neighbor's side property was thistly, dry, dusty and full of goat heads and other weeds. I am actually quite excited to see what it will be like in the spring. Do you think it is a bridge too far if I ask him if I can plant some of the maple saplings that I have been nurturing along? This side we share is on the north side of my property and I would love to have that backdrop of trees.
@boysrus61 Sounds like you’ve built an amazing community project right there in your neighborhood! Your setup with the leaf collection and mulched leaves is incredible, especially in the high desert where soil improvement can be a real challenge. It’s great to hear how much progress you’ve made and how it’s already changing the landscape.
I think inviting your neighbor to see the transformation is a wonderful idea-showing him the soil improvement might really impress him. As for the maple saplings, it doesn’t seem like a bridge too far to ask! If he’s already on board with the leaf mulching and sees the benefits, he may very well appreciate the idea of a natural tree backdrop as much as you would. You’re turning that area into a real sanctuary-keep up the amazing work!
Sounds like I'm in the same area. My rental has horrible dirt and bare spots. I'm mulching my leaves and spreading over bare spots with old compost sprinkled over 🤞🏻 I need to get more leaves but we've had too much rain so when the other tree leaves fall I'll just leave them. Put a ton in my flower/vegetable bed too.
I'd definitely ask the neighbor if he'd be okay with planting trees. Get some throve or make some and fertilize them
What do you mean insulation for the fog trees???
Wow, super idea, super video.
I usually "harvest" leaves with lawn mower, that has collector box. That way you speed up the process.
thoughts and prayers for your mower blade
@redemptiverevelation my last one lasted 8 years and was still mulching stuff when the lawn mower broke 😂
Tractor makes that process fun. Doing this by hand with a shovel is difficult, hard to get everything turned and mixed properly. I have leaf piles that are a couple years old and still not completely soil yet.
Absolutely, using a tractor definitely makes the process much more manageable and efficient! It allows for thorough mixing and turning, which is crucial for the decomposition process. When done by hand, it can be quite labor-intensive and time-consuming, and it can be difficult to ensure that all the materials are properly aerated and mixed.
Leaf piles can take a long time to break down into soil if they’re not turned and mixed regularly. This is because the microorganisms responsible for decomposition need oxygen, moisture, and a balanced carbon-to-nitrogen ratio to work efficiently. Without regular turning, the pile can become compacted and anaerobic, slowing down the decomposition process.
If you’re looking for ways to speed up the process without a tractor, here are a few tips:
Turn the Pile Regularly: Use a pitchfork or garden fork to turn the pile every few weeks to incorporate air.
Add Nitrogen-Rich Materials: Mix in green materials like grass clippings or kitchen scraps to balance the carbon-rich leaves.
Monitor Moisture Levels: Ensure the pile stays moist but not waterlogged. It should feel like a wrung-out sponge.
Shred the Leaves: Shredded leaves break down faster than whole leaves. Consider using a leaf shredder or lawn mower to chop them up before composting.
We’re all working towards the same goal of creating rich, healthy soil, and sometimes it just takes a bit of patience and persistence. Keep at it, and your leaf piles will eventually transform into valuable soil for your garden. Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@GrowingABetterTomorrow thank you. My leaf piles have done exactly as you described, compacted and slimy, anaerobic.
This is tremendous, leaves mould to soil
Hi Kevin, have a great day
I’ve been doing this with leaves for years. I don’t get any from my municipality because I don’t know if roundup was used on the properties that they got them from. I only take leaves from trusted sources.
I will try this, thank you😊😊😊
Welcome 😊
I can turn a bucket of compost into gold in a very short time. I will add meat material. Leave it open for a couple days . Inviting the soldier flys in close the lid and wait. They do amazing decomposing work. Never had an animal issue.
"all spring 'lawn'.." that was good 👍
I've had a leaf pile for two years and it's just now starting to look right
You're living the dream.
Yes we are indeed! Thanks for the comment!
Yes I am on the same page / Doing the same thing 💥
When you move your compost pile of composted leaves, why don't you plant directly into the ground and use that patch to grow a crop on as it will already be composted by nutrients leached from your compost heap and the small amount of compost you will always leave behind.
@michaelmayes9689 That’s a great suggestion! Planting directly into the enriched soil under a compost pile is definitely an efficient way to make use of those nutrients. For me, the composted leaves are a key ingredient in creating high-quality soil for my gardens and nursery, so I tend to move the pile and blend it into other areas.
That said, your idea is something I’ll be exploring in upcoming videos and articles. There’s so much potential in leveraging the natural nutrient cycle for planting directly-stay tuned for more insights on this!
I pretty much do the same thing with the leaves in our yard i have 55gal barrels and just flip em when i feal like it
I'm still trying to 'sweet-talk' Santa into bringing me a skidsteer
@johnduffy6546 Haha, good luck with that! Just tell Santa it’s not just a toy-it’s a necessity! Skid steers make life so much easier on the homestead. Fingers crossed he comes through for you this year!
I'm Lucky there are lots of brush turkeys in my area (NSW AU) they create their nest by basically gathering huge piles of mostly leaves and any other forest floor debris once they have hatched their young they leave these piles to breakdown and im able to cross a river and have access to tons of free leaf breakdown
Hi @raff6636! That sounds fantastic! Brush turkeys are definitely helpful little workers in your area. It's great that you can take advantage of their nest-building habits to access such a rich source of leaf breakdown. Nature's composters at their finest! Enjoy that free, nutrient-rich material for your garden. It's always amazing to see how wildlife and gardening can complement each other so perfectly. Happy gardening! 🌿🦃
Cháu là người Việt Nam nhưng rất mê trồng cây. Nhìn chỗ lá khô của chú mê quá ạ
Cảm ơn cháu rất nhiều vì lời khen dễ thương! Chú rất vui khi biết cháu cũng mê trồng cây giống chú. Lá khô không chỉ là "rác" mà còn là nguồn tài nguyên quý giá để tạo ra đất giàu dinh dưỡng cho cây trồng. Chú thường gom lá khô lại, ủ thành phân hữu cơ để nuôi đất và cây trên farm của chú. Nếu cháu có không gian, cháu cũng có thể thử làm cách này - vừa tốt cho môi trường, vừa giúp cây phát triển mạnh mẽ hơn.
Chúc cháu luôn thành công và vui vẻ với niềm đam mê trồng cây của mình nhé! Nếu có thắc mắc gì về trồng cây, cứ hỏi, chú sẽ cố gắng chia sẻ kinh nghiệm của mình. 😊🌱
Keep an eye out for jumping worms! They can wreak havoc on your property and effectively impossible to get rid off
Thank you for the reminder! 🪱 Jumping worms are definitely a concern, and we take them seriously. We’re very careful about screening everything that comes onto the property-whether it’s soil, mulch, or plants-to minimize the risk of introducing them.
Preventing their spread is a key part of maintaining healthy soil and ecosystems, so we stay vigilant and follow best practices to keep them at bay. Appreciate you looking out for us! 🌱
10/10, that an expensive way to make compost(nice machine). Leaf-mold sells for $145 per cy here.
Where are you located?
@@josiahthornton9125 HTown TX
It would help if you could add some type of manure (horse, cow, etc.) and also some green grass clippings from spring and summer lawn cutting.
Here in Toronto we have lots of deciduous trees, and in fall people put their leaves into big yard waste bags for pickup by the city. I pick up these bags (well over 100 over a period of 3-4 weeks) and spread them several inches deep over my 2500 sq. foot vegetable garden. Looks like hell, and not much happens over the winter. In spring I move the leaves as needed off my planting rows ... lots of big fat earthworms underneath! By midsummer the leaves have almost completely disappeared. I also run large quantities of dry leaves through my old chipper-shredder, and dump them into a 10 cubic yard open-top storage bin. (The leaves must be dry, otherwise they plug up the chipper.) Also into this bin go wood chips from my tree trimmings, shredded bark from splitting firewood, etc. This material partially decomposes over the winter, and the following year I use it liberally for mulch around my vegetables. The plants love it, and by the end of the summer it too disappears into the soil. I have followed this routine for 20 years, and the soil and plant results are incredible. In my opinion leaves are like brown gold.
That sounds like an excellent system! Your method of collecting and utilizing leaves is a fantastic example of sustainable gardening. It's amazing how much organic matter you can process and incorporate into your garden. The presence of earthworms is a clear sign that your soil is thriving and healthy.
I've also found that using leaves as mulch and then incorporating them into the soil greatly benefits plant health and soil structure. It's like having a continuous composting system right in the garden. Kudos to you for maintaining this routine for 20 years - the results must be truly remarkable! Leaves are indeed "brown gold" for the garden. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Hi is it ok to have chestnut hulls mixed in with leaves for compost?
Yes, it is generally okay to include chestnut hulls in your compost along with leaves, but there are a few considerations to keep in mind to ensure the composting process is effective:
Benefits of Adding Chestnut Hulls:
Nutrient Contribution: Chestnut hulls can add valuable nutrients to your compost, including potassium and phosphorus, which are beneficial for plant growth.
Organic Matter: Hulls contribute to the overall organic matter in your compost, helping improve soil structure when the compost is used in the garden.
Considerations:
Decomposition Rate: Chestnut hulls are quite tough and woody, which means they decompose more slowly compared to softer materials like leaves. To accelerate decomposition, it's a good idea to chop or shred the hulls before adding them to the compost pile.
Balance of Greens and Browns: Ensure you maintain a good balance of greens (nitrogen-rich materials) and browns (carbon-rich materials). Leaves are typically brown, and chestnut hulls would also fall into the brown category. You may need to add more green materials (like kitchen scraps, grass clippings, or manure) to keep the composting process active.
Moisture Management: Because hulls are more resistant to breaking down, they might cause the compost pile to dry out if not mixed well. Regularly check the moisture level and turn the pile to ensure even decomposition.
Potential Allelopathic Effects: Some nut hulls, such as black walnut, contain compounds that can inhibit the growth of certain plants. Chestnut hulls do not have strong allelopathic properties, but it’s always good to compost them fully before using the finished product in your garden to avoid any potential issues.
Tips for Effective Composting with Chestnut Hulls:
Shredding: Shred the chestnut hulls to increase their surface area, which helps speed up the decomposition process.
Layering: Layer the hulls with other compost materials to ensure they are well-mixed. Alternate between layers of green and brown materials.
Turning: Regularly turn your compost pile to introduce oxygen and help break down the hulls and other materials evenly.
Monitoring: Keep an eye on the moisture content and add water if the pile becomes too dry. The compost should be moist but not soggy.
By managing your compost pile effectively, chestnut hulls can be a beneficial addition, contributing to the nutrient content and organic matter of your finished compost.
Great video.. thanks.. do you think adding some wood chips would speed the leaves to break down just as the broken down leaf mold does? I Have more wood chips and not so many leaves... yet!
I think it is possible to speed up the breakdown of wood chips by inoculate them with fungi from other wood chips that have been breaking down. I used forest floor debris to inoculate a pile of wood chips in the past I'm not certain that it's sped up the process however I think it may have because of the number of mushrooms that came out the next spring.
Wood chips are a source of carbon. It would be beneficial to add green materials like grass clippings, manure, or blood meal. Nitrogen in green materials is essential because it jumpstarts microbial activity, balances the C ratio, raises compost pile temperatures, and helps decompose tough carbonaceous materials. In essence, nitrogen serves as a catalyst for microbial growth, enabling microbes to efficiently break down carbon-rich materials through these biochemical reactions. The presence of nitrogen allows microbes to build the necessary proteins and enzymes, thereby enhancing the breakdown of carbon in a continuous cycle that produces both heat and nutrient-rich compost.
Does that sand layer inform you on where to stop harvesting?
Yes and it helps me reduce the number of stones that I have to pick out of the finished product. It also helps to keep the lower part of the pile from going anaerobic if we get a lot of rain. The organisms need oxygen.
my dream of living place.....
I have acres of pine and oak, unfortunately it makes my soil very acidic. I have learned to adjust the ph using clay. The only problem here is unless I place leaves in screened areas, the snakes bed in the piles and unfortunately they are the poisonous kind.
Thanks for sharing your experience! Dealing with acidic soil from pine and oak can be a challenge, but it sounds like you’ve found a smart solution with clay. As for the snakes, that’s definitely a tricky situation-safety first! The reptiles are likely seeking out the warmth generated by the piles as the leaves break down, which makes them an attractive spot. Screened areas are a great idea to keep the piles contained and discourage unwanted guests. Maybe elevating the piles slightly or turning them more frequently could help too. Stay safe out there, and good luck with your soil and leaves!
Nice! Thanks
@atrenthillman Thanks for watching! Glad you liked it! 🚗👍
You are expert driver on that machine.
Thank you! 😊 It’s taken some practice, but I’ve learned a lot working with this machine. It’s a real game-changer for getting the job done efficiently! Appreciate the kind words. 🚜💪
@@GrowingABetterTomorrow You earned it. I am thinking of looking for a use one to take of needs at land. My leveled area is fractured basalt rock, so that is a challenge.
looks like a great idea to me!!!
@cathyplantlover2862
Thanks, Cathy! I'm glad you think so! Turning leaves into soil has been a game-changer for us. It's a great way to recycle organic material and enrich our soil naturally. Have you tried anything similar in your garden?
The leave method is hard to beat. Its the easiest thing to get your hands on and your dumb neighbors are paying to bag it and haul it off... The world really is broken
How does inoculation happen?
Great question! I actually have a video coming up soon that will cover this topic in detail, so stay tuned! In the meantime, you can check out the article on our website titled "Inoculating Compost Systems: A Dive into Vermicast, IMO, JADAM, Biodynamic Preps, and Johnson-Su" for an in-depth look at different inoculation methods. It explains how these systems introduce beneficial microbes to enhance soil health and composting. You’ll find it at mindfullivingsanctuary.com. Let me know if you have any specific questions!
I have 2 micro forests on my 2 acres. one in front and one in the back. Probably 15 large trees incl. oaks. I would think the soil beneath them would be excellent from years of leaves falling/composting, but it's pretty unimpressive clay like the rest of my property.
Why is that? Shouldn't the soil in these areas be amazing?
Hey @jonas3333, that's a great setup you have with your micro forests! It does seem logical that years of leaves would lead to rich soil, but there are a few reasons clay can still dominate the profile. Clay's dense structure makes it difficult for organic matter to penetrate deeply and alter the soil’s texture, especially when tree roots are competing for nutrients.
One way to improve the soil is by adding a thick layer of wood chips or other natural mulches around the base of your trees. Wood chips help by slowly breaking down and adding organic matter, which improves soil structure and promotes beneficial fungi that work symbiotically with the tree roots. Over time, this can lead to a much richer, loamier soil as the organic material builds up and integrates, loosening the clay and enhancing drainage and nutrient retention.
Thanks for sharing about your micro forests-it's always inspiring to see others dedicated to creating diverse, natural spaces!
Skid steer is a great tool to have
Track loader
Why didn't you put the entire old pile on the new pile?
The nearly finished leaf mold from the old pile has already been used around the farm, especially for potting, transplanting trees and bushes, and top-dressing trees in our three food forests. We go through quite a bit of this material each week! Also, with this lasagna layering method, we don’t need to add much from the previous batch to get great results. If the piles are managed well, a little inoculant goes a long way.
There are hardly any worms in the soil anymore.
When I was a kid they used to take a pitchfork fishing where the Platte and Missouri meet in Nebraska there used to be worms every time you turned the soil... Now you gotta buy worms because there ain't any there... Fishing has gotten so bad too. The last 30 years have taken a toll on this world.
The world really went crazy when Trump got elected, then along came Biden, Covid, the border…. I love worms, can cultivate them but the crazy things going on in the world right now is unbelievable.
This kind of makes me think of making yogurt where you take a few spoons from your old batch to make your new batch.
Excellent video.
how often do you turn piles? i get truck loads of leaves and they are not even close to finished in 6 months
I just turned that new pile yesterday. I keep the thermometers in it to monitor the temperature. Temperature doesn't get very high but gets to about 100° f in about 2 weeks I'll probably turn it again. Thanks for asking
I take my yard vacuum and shred part of the leaves before winter hits, it provides nice insulation for the sleeping plants and by spring I reshred and re-lay the leaves so it helps to keep the moisture in the beds then I can add mulch or compost if another kind. It all ends up breaking down and builds the soil. I have so many worms in my soil I don't want to plant in it anymore for fear of chopping them up.I think people tend to overthink compost, go look under the debree in the woods. Gorgeous soil and no one had a hand in it. Mother nature provided everything necessary. Blessings for a gorgeous natural garden.
Worms make everything better
@johnduffy6546 Absolutely! Worms are nature’s little powerhouses-turning scraps into gold for the garden. Every healthy soil starts with happy worms!
If you’re getting it from the city, then how do you know what’s been sprayed on they?
Thank you for your question, Robin. The leaves we use come from a location very close to our farm, and we have verified that there is no spraying done on them. Typically, there's no reason to spray leaves in the fall, and we've been careful to ensure the source is safe.
We always recommend being aware of where your compost materials come from, but in this case, we feel confident that the leaves are free from any harmful chemicals. If you have any more questions or concerns, feel free to ask!
So you don't need to chop or shred them?
No I don't do any shopping or shredding of the leaf matter or of weeds for that matter. The system works very well. You can see the videos that I created in the fall and winter when I first got the leaf material in the process of turning it a few times.
great vid
thanks bro
Glad you liked it
Excellent video. Thank you. Subscribed.
thank you so much, super helpful
You're welcome!
Was just realising ; are there examples of piling organic material in nature or is it just a human concept?
Hi @MrWookie21! That's an interesting question. While humans have certainly refined the concept of piling organic material for composting or mulching, similar processes occur naturally in nature. For instance, in forests, organic matter accumulates on the forest floor as leaves, branches, and other plant materials decompose over time. This natural decomposition process enriches the soil with essential nutrients and creates a fertile environment for plant growth. So, while we may have formalized the practice, the idea of piling organic material to improve soil fertility is rooted in nature itself.
The only thing missing is water. Wetting it down will make compost quick.
@johnblay155, you're absolutely right! Water is crucial for speeding up the composting process, especially for leaf mold. It helps to break down the materials faster and encourages microbial activity. Thanks for highlighting this important step!
Wow, what a boon. Ten wheeler's full!!! Those trees bring up nutrients from deep, deep in the earth, put them in the leaves then dump 'em on the ground. Talk about good mulch and compost! I need to find a source like that! Unfortunately, your leaves are haunted though....... Don't visit them at night on a full moon. Heh.....
Hi @3Sphere,
Absolutely, those truckloads of leaves are like gold for our garden! It's amazing how trees draw up nutrients from deep in the soil and then deposit them in their leaves, which become nutrient-rich mulch and compost when they fall to the ground. It's nature's way of recycling and enriching the soil.
Finding a good source of leaves can make a huge difference in your gardening efforts. And as for the haunted leaves, we'll be sure to keep an eye out for any supernatural activity on full moon nights! Thanks for the fun comment!
Best,
Kevin
What zone do u live in?
We are in Central New York zone 5a
Mulch and leaves brought in from other properties is a prime method of exponential asian jumping worm expansion Once a property gets infested there is no going back.
If you're adding nitrogen (kitchen scraps) to your leaf pile, then how is it a fungal process producing leaf mold? The food scraps attract bacteria, which produces compost, not leaf mold. No?
You're right to point out the distinction between composting and leaf mold production. While adding kitchen scraps to the leaf pile can indeed introduce nitrogen and accelerate the decomposition process through bacterial activity, our approach to leaf mold is slightly different.
Leaf mold is primarily a fungal process, and it typically occurs when leaves are left to decompose under conditions that favor fungal growth, such as high humidity and low oxygen levels. The key is to balance the carbon (leaves) with just enough nitrogen (from green materials or kitchen scraps) to keep the pile active without overwhelming it with bacteria. In our process, we aim to maintain this balance to promote fungal activity, which is essential for producing that fine, crumbly leaf mold.
You can see in our video how we manage the pile, using a mix of leaves and occasional kitchen scraps, ensuring that we maintain the right conditions for both fungi and bacteria to work together, albeit with a slight bias towards fungal decomposition. Thanks for bringing up this important point!
How can I get a tractor
When considering purchasing a tractor as a beginner gardener, the first step is to define what you need the tractor to do for you. This will depend on your farming or gardening activities and future plans. For example:
Market Gardening: If you're growing a variety of crops for market sales, you may need a compact tractor with versatile attachments like a tiller, plow, or a PTO-driven implement to help with tasks like bed preparation or planting.
Compost Management: A small or mid-sized tractor with a front-end loader or bucket will help you manage large compost piles by moving material easily.
Hauling Material: For hauling logs, mulch, or other materials, consider a tractor with a loader or forks. It’s important to think about whether you will be moving material frequently or just occasionally.
Snow Removal: If you need a tractor for winter work, look for one that can handle a snowblower or plow, ensuring it has enough power to manage snow in the areas you frequent.
Mowing and Plowing: If you're working in fields or forests, your tractor should be powerful enough to run a mower, plow, or a brush cutter for land management.
It's also important to consider:
Tractor Size: What size tractor do you need based on your available space and tasks? A smaller tractor may be more maneuverable and economical, while a larger tractor can handle heavier tasks.
Usage: How many hours a week will you use the tractor? If it’s a tool you’ll use often, investing in a higher-quality or more powerful model might be worth it.
Income Generation: If your work generates income (e.g., market gardening), investing in a more capable tractor might be a good choice for improving efficiency.
Do your research on different tractor brands and models that match your needs. Popular brands like John Deere, Kubota, and New Holland offer options for small farms, but be sure to match the tractor’s capabilities with your tasks. Consulting with local dealers and experienced farmers can also provide valuable insight into the best tractor for your situation.
Thanks for the info! Look out for the poison ivy on the tree where you placed the camera when you were on the machine.
"Soil" is made up of a combination of clay, silt and sand. These three forms of rock are INORGANIC materials, meaning they have never been part of a living organism.
Fallen leaves (and flowers, fruits, etc.) , on the other hand, are ORGANIC material, meaning they were once part of a living organism. They are broken down (composted) by micro organisms on the upper soil layer. When this composting process is complete, two elements are produced: CO2 (carbon dioxide) and H2O (water vapor. Both these elements are released into the atmosphere.
Organic material cannot become "soil" (inorganic material). When one lays down a layer of mulch or compost in their garden and notices that it gradually disappears over time, what one is seeing is composting process where the material is dissipating into the atmosphere, not down into the ground (the soil).
Thank you for your thoughtful comment! 🌱 You’ve highlighted an important distinction between inorganic soil particles (clay, silt, and sand) and organic matter like leaves, flowers, and compost.
While it's true that organic material doesn't become "soil" in the strict sense of inorganic particles, its role in creating healthy soil is vital. Organic matter doesn’t just dissipate into the atmosphere during decomposition. In addition to releasing CO2 and water vapor, a portion of it is transformed into humus, a stable, carbon-rich substance. Humus integrates into the soil structure, improving its ability to retain moisture, support microbial life, and provide nutrients.
When we discuss soil, we’re not simply talking about inorganic vs. organic materials; we’re talking about an ecosystem that plants need to survive. Soil is alive, teeming with microorganisms that play a crucial role in cycling nutrients and building the structure plants depend on. These microorganisms need organic material to thrive. In turn, they create a balanced soil structure that allows for proper water retention, aeration, and root support.
Mulch or compost disappearing over time is part of this dynamic process, where organic material is consumed by soil life and transformed into resources plants can use. This is why adding organic matter is essential in regenerative farming and gardening-it sustains the ecosystem within the soil that makes plant life possible.
Thanks again for opening up this important discussion! 🌿
Watching this on 14th December 2024 at 1346 hours IST.
@YourAashique Thanks for tuning in! Hope you found the video helpful, no matter what time zone you're in. Turning leaves into soil is truly a global topic-happy composting!
Your town turns leaf gold into air pollution? Rationale?
I believe its because of limited space, gradually the guys have gotten to know me and the things we do and they feel good about someone using the material as valuable resource.
Go away ! You have nothing worthwhile to say.
Read and get educated prior to replying.
IT DOES NOT MAKE SENSE - FACTOR THE COST OF EQUIPMENT COST, STORAGE, MAINTENANCE ???
Thanks for your comment! I understand your concern about the cost of equipment, storage, and maintenance. While it's true that these factors can add up, there are a few key points to consider:
Long-term Savings: The initial investment in equipment can be offset by the long-term benefits of producing high-quality compost for our garden. This reduces the need for purchasing commercial compost and fertilizers.
Sustainability: Turning leaves into soil helps us recycle organic matter that would otherwise go to waste, promoting a more sustainable and eco-friendly gardening practice.
Efficiency: With the right equipment, the process of breaking down leaves into soil is much faster and more efficient, allowing us to keep up with our gardening needs.
Customization: Making our own compost allows us to control the quality and composition, ensuring the best possible results for our specific gardening conditions.
Multi-functionality: The equipment we use for composting also serves multiple purposes, including construction projects and earthworks. This versatility helps justify the investment, as the machinery is not limited to a single function.
While it's not for everyone, for those of us deeply invested in our gardening projects, the benefits can definitely outweigh the costs. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts!
I assume the expensive equipment has far more uses than just flipping a pile of leaves, otherwise you have a good point.
I can't get much in the way of leaves but scrounge every bit of organic matter I can & add shredded brown cardboard for additional carbon.
My total area under cultivation is only 75m²/90yd² excluding paths (these have a 5cm/2" layer of chipped prunings & branches applied annually). As I'm no dig/no till, I apply 2.5cm/1" of compost every year & this alone requires 1.8m³/2.5yd³ plus more for 30 potato tubs, potting on, decorative planters...
Last year, I managed to make more than I needed, so I'm letting it age more & will steam sterilise to use for seed sowing.
Let me use you bob cat so I don’t have to bust my back turning the pile over by hand😬
@din75cschmoo Haha, I hear you! Turning compost by hand is no joke-it’s a serious workout! Believe me, I've been there. A Bobcat definitely makes life easier, but there’s something rewarding about the old-fashioned way too. Keep at it, and maybe one day you’ll have some heavy machinery of your own to make the job a bit lighter!
More like turning leaves into compost mulch.
Half a year is not quickly. That’s a typical compost pile.
Thank you for your comment! While it's true that half a year might seem typical for a compost pile, our demonstration was specifically focused on the process of transforming leaves into leaf mold (not a compost video). Leaf mold naturally takes longer than thermophilic composting due to its reliance on fungal decomposition rather than bacterial heat generation.
We've made numerous videos on thermophilic composting, which can break down organic material much more quickly, often within a few weeks. Leaf mold, however, is a different product with unique benefits, particularly for soil structure and moisture retention. Each process has its own timeline and advantages, and we enjoy sharing the diversity of composting methods with our viewers. Thanks for watching!
Compost returns to carbon gas, so we can’t call it soil
Thank you for your comment! While it’s true that the composting process involves the release of some carbon dioxide as organic matter breaks down, this doesn't mean that compost doesn't contribute to soil formation. Here's why:
Compost Enriches Soil: Compost is a crucial component in building healthy soil. When organic matter like compost is added to soil, it enhances the soil structure, improves water retention, and increases nutrient availability for plants.
Nutrient Cycle: Composting is part of the natural nutrient cycle. While some carbon is released as CO2 during decomposition, the remaining organic matter becomes humus-a stable, nutrient-rich material that is essential for soil health. Humus helps to bind soil particles together, creating a crumbly texture that improves aeration and root penetration.
Soil Microorganisms: Compost introduces and supports a diverse population of beneficial microorganisms in the soil. These microbes continue to break down organic matter, cycling nutrients and contributing to the formation of rich, fertile soil.
Organic Matter: Adding compost to soil increases its organic matter content. Organic matter is a key component of soil, contributing to its physical, chemical, and biological properties. It helps to retain moisture, reduce erosion, and provide a slow-release source of nutrients for plants.
Carbon Sequestration: While some carbon is released during composting, the process also sequesters carbon in the form of stable organic matter in the soil. This helps mitigate climate change by storing carbon in the soil rather than releasing it all into the atmosphere.
In summary, composting is a vital process that not only recycles organic waste but also plays a significant role in building and maintaining healthy soil. The end product, compost, enriches the soil, supports plant growth, and contributes to sustainable gardening and agriculture practices. So, while some carbon is indeed released during decomposition, the benefits of compost in creating and enhancing soil far outweigh this aspect.
@@GrowingABetterTomorrow awesome reply and thanks for the time it took to type this👏🏼👏🏼👊🏻
You're making compost not soil, they're different things and you can't make soil.
While we can't replicate the exact complexity of natural soil formed over centuries, we can certainly create a soil-like medium that supports plant growth. By mixing mineral components (sand, silt, clay) with organic matter (compost, leaf mold), and ensuring proper aeration and nutrient balance, we can produce a healthy, fertile growing medium. This process mimics natural soil formation and provides the necessary conditions for plants to thrive. So, yes, we can create soil that meets the needs of our gardens and landscapes!
Leaf mold and compost both contribute valuable properties to soil, but they are different. Leaf mold is made from decomposed leaves and is excellent for improving soil structure and moisture retention, whereas compost is made from a variety of decomposed organic materials (kitchen scraps, garden waste) and is rich in nutrients. Together, they create a well-rounded, fertile soil mix. So, yes, we can create soil that meets the needs of our gardens and landscapes!
how fun is life when you are that pedantic?
Gee... unless you have a goddamn tractor; this is completely useless.
Absolutely wrong, if you didn't learn anything from this then you already know what's being done here or you are not capable of learning or don't want to. Tractor, shovel or turning bin, doesn't matter how big.
Hi @indrekkpringi,
I understand your frustration, but creating soil from leaves doesn’t necessarily require heavy machinery like a tractor. There are several simpler, more accessible methods that can be just as effective:
Composting Pile: You can create a compost pile in your backyard. It doesn’t require any machinery, just some space, and a bit of effort. By regularly turning the pile with a pitchfork or shovel, you can help the decomposition process along.
Leaf Mold: Another method is to make leaf mold. Simply gather leaves in a pile or a bin, keep them moist, and let them decompose naturally over time. This process takes longer but requires minimal effort and no machinery.
Mulching: You can also use leaves directly as mulch. Spread them over your garden beds to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Over time, they will break down and enrich the soil.
While it may seem daunting, starting small and being consistent can yield great results without the need for heavy equipment. Happy gardening! 🌿
@@GrowingABetterTomorrow
I have places where I pile up the leaves every autumn for years and they don't turn into soil here in Quebec and it rains a lot here... BTW: with a 6-7 month winter, the decomposing only happens for 4 months, and there are no earth worms here in the Laurentions; just granite and trees.
So the lesson is: don't assume something works everywhere; there are exceptions for everything.