Wonder what the rating of these safes are according to EN1143-1 ? They have some great features but at the end of the day they're just steel boxes and seems not that thick steel. The issue is that these day there's something called an angle grinder and even small ones cut quite fast in steel. Don't get me wrong there are steel boxes that get EN1143-1 grade I rating but higher ratings require special cut and crush resistant concrete in combination with steel. But they're also in a very different weight class in more than one meaning.
Is there any way to get, for example, a 24-gun safe; barebones on the inside?? I want to do my own custom interior build and really want that military grade locking bar system.
Has anyone tried to drill open one of these safe locks....I had the honor(or misfortune)of having to drill open the safe lock on a Washington series safe. For those that don't know it has ball bearing hard plate in the door. What a pain in the a**. Your company gets 2 thumbs up for that. 👍👍
Locking tabs look easier to cut then bars. I would assume it's hardened steel. Then again the safes are really nice but 98% of safes are all made this way which is a big weakness. Anyone with a grinder and cut off wheel can get through the sides or back very quickly. People put lots of effort into the doors of safes to keep it from getting opened. Yet leave the other 3 sides very vulnerable within steel and a little bit of drywall that doesn't stop anything.
Yet you won't find anything better for $1,200. (Liberty Centurion 24 with electronic lock) Also, if keeping it relatively light because you live a mobile lifestyle or in a manufactured home is important, again, nothing beats a Centurion 24. It certainly beats its competitors and it certainly beats not having any safe at all. Liberty makes much stronger products than the Centurion, but if you want to keep the safe under 400 lbs, there is NOTHING better out there. Not everyone can justify owning a 2,000 lb juggernaut with half inch thick steel walls...
@@brianwhite9015 not denying it being a nice safe just stating a common flaw with most of the safes being made today. As far as light weight unless you bolt it to the floor I don't see the point two people could take a 400-600lb safe out of a house easily with a hand Dolly. I do agree a safe is better then no safe. I just think they should make them out of AR steel (abrasive resistant) at least. Especially now days with how good cordless handheld tools are.
@simple man grinders make a lot of noise, and I have protective neighbors. They know I won't be doing any steel grinding in my house, especially when I'm not home. My safe and my armed neighbors are more than enough security. It'll do until I buy a brick and stick home here in the near future. Also, empty at 370lbs it was quite the effort getting it up the porch steps and inside with two men and a hand truck, it's not that easy. And full it weighs at least 500lbs.
Thanks for the video, I know know if my home falls on the safe it's still good. How good it it from keep someone with a power saw from getting in from the side of the safe? Please add more still around it and try to keep at a good price. Also their are someone people that one that can hold about 4 rifles and handguns.
Yeah. I love the good old dial lock too. I can understand the convinience of an electronic if it's operated at a daily basis. In that event I'd probably prefer a fingerprint lock. An EMP is not that likely. It has to be rather strong to destroy a lock that is mostly inside the safe. But there sure are both benefits and trade offs of each lock type that you need to be aware of. The dial lock can be decoded if you're extremely skilled and have time. There's also auto dialers that will brute force them in reasonable amount of time. Some day they'll be cheaply available on Ali Express. Their strength is clearly no power and very secure although a little slow to open because dialing process takes time. The electronic lock is convinience. Again very secure and just about nobody will be able to open it without destroying safe. There's however some unknowns. Does someone have a superduper mastercode somewhere? Have the manufacturer made the electronics to secure standards? Some of the cheaper locks you can just hook up your own keypad accessible from front and then open it. Then there's keys. A good key lock is very secure and pick resistant (but not 100%) and cheap. The big disadvantage with keys is that people tends to keep them somewhere "secure" and when a burglar finds them (they often does!) then they have easy acces to the safe. If you're carrying the key with you and you're victim of a street robbery - not only dothey most likely find something with your address on (social security card in many countries) but if they also see that key then they have an even higher incentive to visit your home. Safe keys are very distinct and means that there's guns and/or valuables at your home - bingo. So yeah combination is the way to go. You however have to decide whether to pick the mechanical or the electronic. Choose a good one and it's very secure for ordinary home use. If I stumble upon a good 4 disc lock I might consider upgrading - makes auto dialing take much longer. After all autodialing is the most likely non destructive attack as decoding is difficult even for skilles persons and as said it's probably a matter of time before auto dialers are cheaply available to anybody. After all they're just simple mechines containing no really expensive parts - all just standard industrial parts available to anybody (but putting them together is the hard part)
What I haven't seen are videos where they allow experienced thieves to attempt to cut into the safe. All that crushing, dropping, rolling down hills, blowing up stuff is misdirection. It's theatre. Allow real thieves to take a grinder to the side of it and let's see how long it takes to compromise the safe.
It would be defeated in a matter of seconds because these are just RSCs. Their doors don't have much armor and the other 5 sides have even less. Why Liberty doesn't make a true safe I do not know. They have the expertise and the capability to do this if they wanted to, and they could easily built a high-quality RSC Level 2/3 or even a TL-rated safe.
It's a great apartment safe. I have one bolted to the floor. I sound like an idiot but I had an accidental discharge Beretta 92. Bypassed the decocker and thumbed the hammer down on a loaded chamber. My greasy thumb slipped off the hammer and boom 💥 the round passed through the back of the safe two walls (4 sheets of drywall) a wall stud and a closet door, passed laterally through 6 blinds, bounced off my dual pane glass sliding back door and landed on the carpeting. I was mortified. The 92 is as safe as they come the safe however is not bullet proof. I intentionally load and unload my carry piece in the safe guess I need sand bags.
Like all manufacturers, they make a range of safes from cheap and nasty, to the top of the line with hefty solid steel rather than thin sheet metal. You get what you pay for - it doesn’t matter how good they look, or their features they offer, unless it’s more than thin sheet metal then you are buying cosmetic security - I’ve seen cheap safes opened in less than 5 minutes with jemmy bars or disc cutters.
I couldnt agree more. The sheetmetal boxes of drywall on display here are security theater at best and outright fraud at worst. Sturdy, Graffunder, and any TL30 safe should be considered long before these fancy painted tin cans. There are bound to be used deals somewhere if you look in the right place. No reason to lower your expectations this far.
@@1FAST91SONOMA Every single safe you named can be cut into just as easily as a Liberty safe..With a oxy/acetylene torch i can cut through half inch steel like it's butter..Before you spew bullshit about no one carries around a oxy/acetylene torch well they also don't carry around grinders..
@@yo.jessooo you're delusional at best and a straight up liar at worst. Even your oxy/ace cutting setup would struggle with a Graffunder safe. You probably didnt bother to look into how they're built. Cordless angle grinders are cheap, powerful, and extremely common. They're routinely used to break into lower quality safes.
Wanted a Liberty, too bad your sales rep in San Antonio doesn't return ( twice ) phone calls. Makes one wonder about customer service when needed....I bought a Fort Knox !!
This is a very interesting video of how Liberty builds their product. I think I will be buying another Pendleton safe though when I need another safe, long live Pendleton safes💪
I used to deliver particle board to these guys, out of Salt Lake, I’m guessing for their shelves. I’ve been in their facility many many times and I was always very impressed with the quality and beauty of their safes. Fast forward 10 years and now I’m in the market for something along the lines of their USA models. Wish I could still get one with the Harley Davidson logo that I used to see in their warehouse but I can’t seem to find them anywhere these days. But Lady Liberty 🗽 will do just fine for me!!
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Ashton Alejandro i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Ashton Alejandro WTF IT REALLY WORKED! Just hacked my ig account details after roughly 40 minutes of using the site. Just had to pay 15$ but for sure worth it =) Thank you so much you saved my ass!
If I had to buy a new safe today, it would be Liberty! Luckily, I was able to afford a great large safe in 1992 that has the expanding foam seal, 3/8" steel door front, 8 bolts and it class 3 fire rate for 90 minutes at 1,650 degrees F according to the owners manual. Today after 40 years of marriage even my wife said it was the best decision I had made for purchases. Now, if I can get just one more thing right?
4:57 - he screwed up the paint... big blob of paint right over the "USA series" logo he just applied. Guess thats one more destined for a ridiculous marketing stunt meant to make 11 gauge look like a strong safe. The more of these promotional videos I see the more Im glad I spent my money on steel from Sturdy (a local family-owned business) instead of drywall and faux leather trim stapled to particle board from Liberty or any of the other companies commonly sold in stores. I almost bought a Liberty safe but instead I got more metal, more room, and less moisture issues from substandard insulation materials.
And regardless of how much steel you put in your safe. A 15 dollar Diablo blade will be able to go through like it was a liberty safe. So you are the idiot who paid more for nothing.
Sturdy is by far a better safe. It is a true safe, these are not. Most box store safes are RSC rated and can be broken into with a fire axe. Sturdy, Vault Pro and Homeland would be my choices if i wanted to have a piece of mind. Hell, Steelwater safes are better than these.
@@Kenny1594 no, I paid less and got more metal (at least double the metal) and a stronger linkage design, better materials, as well as over 40% more storage space. Those insisting Liberty is anything more than a glorified locker are the morons.
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Bought a Lincoln 25 today, cant wait for delivery!
3:30 any good safe deserves a good home too. Send a Lincoln 50 my way
That’s why I love my Liberty Safe
We bought our centurion for a reason. 👍
Wonder what the rating of these safes are according to EN1143-1 ?
They have some great features but at the end of the day they're just steel boxes and seems not that thick steel. The issue is that these day there's something called an angle grinder and even small ones cut quite fast in steel. Don't get me wrong there are steel boxes that get EN1143-1 grade I rating but higher ratings require special cut and crush resistant concrete in combination with steel. But they're also in a very different weight class in more than one meaning.
Is there any way to get, for example, a 24-gun safe; barebones on the inside?? I want to do my own custom interior build and really want that military grade locking bar system.
I make this steel, kinda cool to see it being processed
Has anyone tried to drill open one of these safe locks....I had the honor(or misfortune)of having to drill open the safe lock on a Washington series safe. For those that don't know it has ball bearing hard plate in the door. What a pain in the a**. Your company gets 2 thumbs up for that. 👍👍
I'm extremely happy with my Liberty safe! Great product AND it's made in the USA! Great job Liberty!
Still happy with liberty knowing they'll give your combo to the feds for political persecution?
Just ordered my first safe a Liberty 🗽 of course! Can't wait to have my stuff secured!
Unless the goberment ask your safe code to "Liberty" Safes.
Locking tabs look easier to cut then bars. I would assume it's hardened steel. Then again the safes are really nice but 98% of safes are all made this way which is a big weakness. Anyone with a grinder and cut off wheel can get through the sides or back very quickly. People put lots of effort into the doors of safes to keep it from getting opened. Yet leave the other 3 sides very vulnerable within steel and a little bit of drywall that doesn't stop anything.
Agree totally, and then use junk particle board inside for shelves.
Yet you won't find anything better for $1,200. (Liberty Centurion 24 with electronic lock) Also, if keeping it relatively light because you live a mobile lifestyle or in a manufactured home is important, again, nothing beats a Centurion 24. It certainly beats its competitors and it certainly beats not having any safe at all. Liberty makes much stronger products than the Centurion, but if you want to keep the safe under 400 lbs, there is NOTHING better out there. Not everyone can justify owning a 2,000 lb juggernaut with half inch thick steel walls...
@@brianwhite9015 not denying it being a nice safe just stating a common flaw with most of the safes being made today. As far as light weight unless you bolt it to the floor I don't see the point two people could take a 400-600lb safe out of a house easily with a hand Dolly. I do agree a safe is better then no safe. I just think they should make them out of AR steel (abrasive resistant) at least. Especially now days with how good cordless handheld tools are.
@simple man grinders make a lot of noise, and I have protective neighbors. They know I won't be doing any steel grinding in my house, especially when I'm not home. My safe and my armed neighbors are more than enough security. It'll do until I buy a brick and stick home here in the near future. Also, empty at 370lbs it was quite the effort getting it up the porch steps and inside with two men and a hand truck, it's not that easy. And full it weighs at least 500lbs.
@brianwhite9015 that safe needs to start gaining weight brother.
Wow, how cool
Great rugged safes
Thanks for the video, I know know if my home falls on the safe it's still good. How good it it from keep someone with a power saw from getting in from the side of the safe? Please add more still around it and try to keep at a good price. Also their are someone people that one that can hold about 4 rifles and handguns.
I have the FatBoy Extreme and almost need another safe already after two years.😎🇺🇸
EMP resistance is not EMP proof. A CME like the one in 1859 Carrington Event., will it open? My mechanical dial lock will.
Yeah. I love the good old dial lock too. I can understand the convinience of an electronic if it's operated at a daily basis. In that event I'd probably prefer a fingerprint lock.
An EMP is not that likely. It has to be rather strong to destroy a lock that is mostly inside the safe. But there sure are both benefits and trade offs of each lock type that you need to be aware of.
The dial lock can be decoded if you're extremely skilled and have time. There's also auto dialers that will brute force them in reasonable amount of time. Some day they'll be cheaply available on Ali Express. Their strength is clearly no power and very secure although a little slow to open because dialing process takes time.
The electronic lock is convinience. Again very secure and just about nobody will be able to open it without destroying safe. There's however some unknowns. Does someone have a superduper mastercode somewhere? Have the manufacturer made the electronics to secure standards? Some of the cheaper locks you can just hook up your own keypad accessible from front and then open it.
Then there's keys. A good key lock is very secure and pick resistant (but not 100%) and cheap. The big disadvantage with keys is that people tends to keep them somewhere "secure" and when a burglar finds them (they often does!) then they have easy acces to the safe. If you're carrying the key with you and you're victim of a street robbery - not only dothey most likely find something with your address on (social security card in many countries) but if they also see that key then they have an even higher incentive to visit your home. Safe keys are very distinct and means that there's guns and/or valuables at your home - bingo.
So yeah combination is the way to go. You however have to decide whether to pick the mechanical or the electronic. Choose a good one and it's very secure for ordinary home use.
If I stumble upon a good 4 disc lock I might consider upgrading - makes auto dialing take much longer. After all autodialing is the most likely non destructive attack as decoding is difficult even for skilles persons and as said it's probably a matter of time before auto dialers are cheaply available to anybody. After all they're just simple mechines containing no really expensive parts - all just standard industrial parts available to anybody (but putting them together is the hard part)
Going to buy a revere. Lowest end but still better than any china safe.
What I haven't seen are videos where they allow experienced thieves to attempt to cut into the safe. All that crushing, dropping, rolling down hills, blowing up stuff is misdirection. It's theatre.
Allow real thieves to take a grinder to the side of it and let's see how long it takes to compromise the safe.
It would be defeated in a matter of seconds because these are just RSCs. Their doors don't have much armor and the other 5 sides have even less. Why Liberty doesn't make a true safe I do not know. They have the expertise and the capability to do this if they wanted to, and they could easily built a high-quality RSC Level 2/3 or even a TL-rated safe.
@@RDROff I wish they would, because I'd buy one in a heartbeat.
any safe on the market can be cut into by a grinder...lol
It's a great apartment safe. I have one bolted to the floor. I sound like an idiot but I had an accidental discharge Beretta 92. Bypassed the decocker and thumbed the hammer down on a loaded chamber. My greasy thumb slipped off the hammer and boom 💥 the round passed through the back of the safe two walls (4 sheets of drywall) a wall stud and a closet door, passed laterally through 6 blinds, bounced off my dual pane glass sliding back door and landed on the carpeting. I was mortified. The 92 is as safe as they come the safe however is not bullet proof. I intentionally load and unload my carry piece in the safe guess I need sand bags.
i cant wait til my fat boy jr extreme gets delivered ..i am so excited!!!
Happy with my Lincoln.
Like all manufacturers, they make a range of safes from cheap and nasty, to the top of the line with hefty solid steel rather than thin sheet metal. You get what you pay for - it doesn’t matter how good they look, or their features they offer, unless it’s more than thin sheet metal then you are buying cosmetic security - I’ve seen cheap safes opened in less than 5 minutes with jemmy bars or disc cutters.
I couldnt agree more. The sheetmetal boxes of drywall on display here are security theater at best and outright fraud at worst. Sturdy, Graffunder, and any TL30 safe should be considered long before these fancy painted tin cans. There are bound to be used deals somewhere if you look in the right place. No reason to lower your expectations this far.
@@1FAST91SONOMA Every single safe you named can be cut into just as easily as a Liberty safe..With a oxy/acetylene torch i can cut through half inch steel like it's butter..Before you spew bullshit about no one carries around a oxy/acetylene torch well they also don't carry around grinders..
@@yo.jessooo you're delusional at best and a straight up liar at worst. Even your oxy/ace cutting setup would struggle with a Graffunder safe. You probably didnt bother to look into how they're built. Cordless angle grinders are cheap, powerful, and extremely common. They're routinely used to break into lower quality safes.
@Jeremy Collins yeah let's compare 25k plus safe to a safe that cost under 10k..And no a torch will cut that Graffunder with ease..
Wanted a Liberty, too bad your sales rep in San Antonio doesn't return ( twice ) phone calls. Makes one wonder about customer service when needed....I bought a Fort Knox !!
This is a very interesting video of how Liberty builds their product. I think I will be buying another Pendleton safe though when I need another safe, long live Pendleton safes💪
That door seal expanding under heat is absolutely brilliant.
I used to deliver particle board to these guys, out of Salt Lake, I’m guessing for their shelves. I’ve been in their facility many many times and I was always very impressed with the quality and beauty of their safes. Fast forward 10 years and now I’m in the market for something along the lines of their USA models.
Wish I could still get one with the Harley Davidson logo that I used to see in their warehouse but I can’t seem to find them anywhere these days. But Lady Liberty 🗽 will do just fine for me!!
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Gideon Dariel Instablaster ;)
@Ashton Alejandro i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Ashton Alejandro WTF IT REALLY WORKED! Just hacked my ig account details after roughly 40 minutes of using the site.
Just had to pay 15$ but for sure worth it =)
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
@Gideon Dariel no problem :D
Hell yes. Bought a colonial 30.
Very slowly. 7 months, still waiting
If I had to buy a new safe today, it would be Liberty! Luckily, I was able to afford a great large safe in 1992 that has the expanding foam seal, 3/8" steel door front, 8 bolts and it class 3 fire rate for 90 minutes at 1,650 degrees F according to the owners manual. Today after 40 years of marriage even my wife said it was the best decision I had made for purchases. Now, if I can get just one more thing right?
I don’t want a safe with walls made of rolled steel
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Luv ir
Phoenix az
The resort 4326 n 35th ave #1015 phoenix az
RodrigueZ
4:57 - he screwed up the paint... big blob of paint right over the "USA series" logo he just applied. Guess thats one more destined for a ridiculous marketing stunt meant to make 11 gauge look like a strong safe. The more of these promotional videos I see the more Im glad I spent my money on steel from Sturdy (a local family-owned business) instead of drywall and faux leather trim stapled to particle board from Liberty or any of the other companies commonly sold in stores. I almost bought a Liberty safe but instead I got more metal, more room, and less moisture issues from substandard insulation materials.
You know you can easily wipe off wet paint... Guaranteed no damage done dumbass.
And regardless of how much steel you put in your safe. A 15 dollar Diablo blade will be able to go through like it was a liberty safe. So you are the idiot who paid more for nothing.
Sturdy is by far a better safe. It is a true safe, these are not. Most box store safes are RSC rated and can be broken into with a fire axe. Sturdy, Vault Pro and Homeland would be my choices if i wanted to have a piece of mind. Hell, Steelwater safes are better than these.
@@Kenny1594 no, I paid less and got more metal (at least double the metal) and a stronger linkage design, better materials, as well as over 40% more storage space. Those insisting Liberty is anything more than a glorified locker are the morons.
@@1FAST91SONOMA There is no way you got "double" the metal and paid less. Post links lying scum bag.
The door has big gaps to get a pry bar in it looks like can u cut the side open with a grinder those videos worrie viewers like me
Oh the little box. Give me two. Military style???? Give me a fucking brake. Sales pitch that's all it is. Junk.
WATCH 2nd King Hyung Jin Sean Moon (Heir of 1st King Second Coming Sun Myung Moon) on TH-cam at: ROD OF IRON KINGDOM!
Ohhhh no
My gosh
It’s an American 🇺🇸
ReeeeeEeeeee!!!!
Way cool.