I have one 50 watts that doesn't work and its power supply or adapter is outputting 46 vdc steady but it doesn't work they rated to work on 34 volt anyway I measured the led cob in diode mode there was 0.6 voltage drop and when I connected a 24 vdc motor to the led , one line has illuminated ! although I connected it in parallel so the the current is what been divided! it really weird why it wouldn't work if I give it extra power not less? I hate leds I'm gonna shift back to sodium vapor light it’s much fascinating and reliable, even when I wanted to test the board it was waxed completely you can’t reach nothing!! most of the faulty leds i met in the past were just flickering and I just change the smoothing capacitor and they work fine but this one is different case
I love those COB LEDs. got once a ton of midsized Cree LEDs as they had a good price and i have after like 5+ years still some of them around. I built a lot of bright working lights, DIY (flooder) „flashlights“ with 100W+ power consumption as well air cooling via cpu heatsink and going way above the rated max current What i like those COBs also very much for… going way below the rated current and they get SUPER EFFICIENT (at the cost of CRI and color accuracy)
And yes, those COB LED are typically a big array of a lot LEDs in different patterns parallel and in series. They are awesome, but they have some drawbacks as well. "High" voltage needed for example, my relatively compact, round 50W or 66W models, i dont remember exactly, need about 36V for its rated current of i think 1,5A around. About 39V make about 4A (so >150W power draw!). If you dim them, you also have to realise.... either you stick with the regular efficiency but no CRI and color accuracy loss, so you control the light output via PWM dimmer. If you dim them with a "simple" constant current source they will change color and lose most of its CRI value while dimmed. Also, as awesome it is to boost those COB LEDs as my DIY flooder putting out >20.000 Lumen by bulding a array of 2 of them and yank the sh*t out of them by going 4A+, their efficiency goes VERY BAD. The rated current values are somewhat a "sweet spot" to have as "much as possible" light and reliable, yet reasonable efficiency as well. Only going much below this rated current, and only by doing it with constant current will increase efficiency to nearly unexpected levels. My 50 or 66W COB LEDs, when running them on lets say 3W, they are SUPER BRIGHT. Any 3-5W single LED running at 3W will be much darker, so much less efficient. The COB LEDs i use are running on super low current while doing just 3W (36V LEDs, i would guess now around 31-33V @ 0,1A).
Yeah, I put together a kit for a 100W COB LED with parts I got off AliExpress/eBay, and I definitely know what you mean by finding the right balance between brightness and accuracy. The thing is so bright it can light up an entire basement almost as bright as all the pre-existing lights. It consumes ~96W, and if that’s only because my power supply only goes up to 31V and the COB LED is rated for 32 or 36V I think? I honestly don’t remember so please correct me if I’m wrong :) Now I don’t remember whether or not I used constant current in this video, but if I didn’t I definitely should have. I run my 100W COB at 31V (psu maximum) and 3.112A, any more current and I don’t notice any increase in brightness but the Heatsink starts getting really warm. Some day I may get a real powerful power supply that can go up to 40 or something volts and give at least 10A of current 🙃 Electricity is just so cool when you think about it, especially in the context of electrochemistry. The way physical matter like simple rocks & minerals mined from the earth, when put in the right arrangement, can literally generate the very same electricity that runs our world today. Like the way battery materials on their own are only useful for their own properties, but when combined, they suddenly form a little chemical system that is the battery cell. It might sound weird, but whenever I make a battery cell it’s like I’m bringing it to life, so it’s always a bit difficult for me to break it apart to reuse the electrodes.
@@KeonsLabpretty obvious that they are supercaps and the video is released anyways already. I built some months ago with supercaps a hybride battery for my E-Scooter. A used, well balanced and still fine 48V 12,8Ah LiIon battery pack which was just a bit too stressed with the ripple created by the modified scooter (controller shunt mod, easy and awesome!) I added in parallel to the pack a supercap bank and put it together as a single battery. Helped also a bit to reduce stress on the battery when im charging via charging port while riding the scooter. I have built a detachable DC DC buck/boost converter and i can charge this scooter from ANY 10-60V DC source with up to around 10A (basically super fast 1 hour charging time!) Or i can use tool batteries or any RC Lipo whatever to extend the range (while riding…)
I have one 50 watts that doesn't work and its power supply or adapter is outputting 46 vdc steady but it doesn't work they rated to work on 34 volt anyway I measured the led cob in diode mode there was 0.6 voltage drop and when I connected a 24 vdc motor to the led , one line has illuminated ! although I connected it in parallel so the the current is what been divided! it really weird why it wouldn't work if I give it extra power not less? I hate leds I'm gonna shift back to sodium vapor light it’s much fascinating and reliable, even when I wanted to test the board it was waxed completely you can’t reach nothing!! most of the faulty leds i met in the past were just flickering and I just change the smoothing capacitor and they work fine but this one is different case
I love those COB LEDs.
got once a ton of midsized Cree LEDs as they had a good price and i have after like 5+ years still some of them around.
I built a lot of bright working lights, DIY (flooder) „flashlights“ with 100W+ power consumption as well air cooling via cpu heatsink and going way above the rated max current
What i like those COBs also very much for… going way below the rated current and they get SUPER EFFICIENT (at the cost of CRI and color accuracy)
And yes, those COB LED are typically a big array of a lot LEDs in different patterns parallel and in series.
They are awesome, but they have some drawbacks as well. "High" voltage needed for example, my relatively compact, round 50W or 66W models, i dont remember exactly, need about 36V for its rated current of i think 1,5A around. About 39V make about 4A (so >150W power draw!).
If you dim them, you also have to realise.... either you stick with the regular efficiency but no CRI and color accuracy loss, so you control the light output via PWM dimmer.
If you dim them with a "simple" constant current source they will change color and lose most of its CRI value while dimmed.
Also, as awesome it is to boost those COB LEDs as my DIY flooder putting out >20.000 Lumen by bulding a array of 2 of them and yank the sh*t out of them by going 4A+, their efficiency goes VERY BAD.
The rated current values are somewhat a "sweet spot" to have as "much as possible" light and reliable, yet reasonable efficiency as well. Only going much below this rated current, and only by doing it with constant current will increase efficiency to nearly unexpected levels.
My 50 or 66W COB LEDs, when running them on lets say 3W, they are SUPER BRIGHT. Any 3-5W single LED running at 3W will be much darker, so much less efficient. The COB LEDs i use are running on super low current while doing just 3W (36V LEDs, i would guess now around 31-33V @ 0,1A).
Yeah, I put together a kit for a 100W COB LED with parts I got off AliExpress/eBay, and I definitely know what you mean by finding the right balance between brightness and accuracy. The thing is so bright it can light up an entire basement almost as bright as all the pre-existing lights.
It consumes ~96W, and if that’s only because my power supply only goes up to 31V and the COB LED is rated for 32 or 36V I think? I honestly don’t remember so please correct me if I’m wrong :)
Now I don’t remember whether or not I used constant current in this video, but if I didn’t I definitely should have. I run my 100W COB at 31V (psu maximum) and 3.112A, any more current and I don’t notice any increase in brightness but the Heatsink starts getting really warm. Some day I may get a real powerful power supply that can go up to 40 or something volts and give at least 10A of current 🙃
Electricity is just so cool when you think about it, especially in the context of electrochemistry. The way physical matter like simple rocks & minerals mined from the earth, when put in the right arrangement, can literally generate the very same electricity that runs our world today.
Like the way battery materials on their own are only useful for their own properties, but when combined, they suddenly form a little chemical system that is the battery cell.
It might sound weird, but whenever I make a battery cell it’s like I’m bringing it to life, so it’s always a bit difficult for me to break it apart to reuse the electrodes.
Why are the caps blurred?
Oh 😂 It was to keep the surprise for the videos which came after it
@@KeonsLabpretty obvious that they are supercaps and the video is released anyways already.
I built some months ago with supercaps a hybride battery for my E-Scooter.
A used, well balanced and still fine 48V 12,8Ah LiIon battery pack which was just a bit too stressed with the ripple created by the modified scooter (controller shunt mod, easy and awesome!)
I added in parallel to the pack a supercap bank and put it together as a single battery.
Helped also a bit to reduce stress on the battery when im charging via charging port while riding the scooter. I have built a detachable DC DC buck/boost converter and i can charge this scooter from ANY 10-60V DC source with up to around 10A (basically super fast 1 hour charging time!)
Or i can use tool batteries or any RC Lipo whatever to extend the range (while riding…)
Awesome ‼
Thanks!!