I've been buying buying premade band sets but just made my own with the help of this video, this should save me some money in the long run, also I just clamp my bands on to my scout but have just tied a set on with your help and it works just fine, useful skill to know and I may eventually give making my own fork a go. Thanks for taking the time to do this tutorial, very clear and easy to follow 👍
Hey thanks man. I prefer clips to wrap and tuck. However the clips on the torque aren't as good as the scout lt. I am glad the video helped you out man. You can save lots of money making your own bands.
Thanks much, I always enjoy your videos. I thought I'd share a recent safety discovery. I've been making frames from quality 3/4 inch fir board and haven't had any problems. Hundreds of shots through each of them. I recently got some spruce in the same dimensions. It is too weak for a slingshot!!!!! I just had a spruce frame snap in two while I was drawing, right between the forks. Thankfully I always pre draw before bringing it near my face, or I would have caught the fork tip in the teeth. For anyone considering making their own, choose you materials carefully. Have a great day everyone!
@@ATOMark Even with fir I'm very choosy. The stuff I've been using is finishing grade board for molding, baseboards etc. The grain is much tighter than typical lumber grade stuff. Hardwoods are difficult to find where I live (Outside Vancouver). I've made quite a few V frames that shoot well. Taper two equal length sticks. Bind them together with scrap rubber, tap a wedge between them to resist the rubber and push the forks apart. Adjust it to make it even and then bind it again tightly and vertically to hold the wedge in place. I've used both broom stick and rattan. If you file the appropriate area flat you can shoot with a thumb supported grip. Otherwise they're pinch grip which I find affects my accuracy.
@@ATOMark Yeah! I'm right there in Biddeford! I'm working with another fellow to try and get a Maine Slingshot Club or something going on. Freakin' love this hobby!
Cool vid Mark 😮 You can just use a bit of the Amber belt lnsted og a thread. When you wrap&tuck. Wayne Martin showed me that😊. Love your channel! Cheers, Sis ❤
I know there are a bunch of these out there but with a foot of snow falling I figured it would be a good time to show a complete step by step band build. Hope you enjoy.
My pleasure buddy. Just don't get caught in the trap maxing out your bands all the time. Try to add a little bit and your bands will last a lot longer.
@@ATOMark I hear that. I’ve been adding some to my bands for longevity of the bands and it also makes them more comfortable to shot. I’m only target shooting for now anyway but I did max a couple of bands for fun to see what they would do. They shot fast but didn’t last long at all. I plan on getting my chronograph out and start a log book to keep a record of my different band cuts and performance. Such as latex manufacturer, type of latex, longevity, speed and so on.
Where are you located? I have ordered templates from only 2 places aliexpress (both arrived broken ) and slingshooting.com (great quality and well packed) I will order all my templates from them as you can make custom setups and they make them to order. Shipping is a little long though. 3-4 weeks
There is no best elastic. Really it comes down to the shooter. I like gong chi .5 ( cattyshack.co.uk) snipersling yellow .5 (snipersling.com) South wales catties .55
Some may think this is a crazy question but I am gonna ask anyway because I have not heard it mentioned on any of the band tying videos anywhere. So you have a straight edge and a tapered edge on your band, it’s important to keep the straight edge so it is on top when it is drawn back, is that correct or you should just know that
Personally I don't worry about that at all. Both exact bands have the same amount of elastic . Dimensions and weight. I have found absolutly no difference top, bottom, inside ot out. "The only bad question is one you didn't solve!" Ato
Helllloooooo out there.You are doing a great job but you need to slow it down because you are going so fast you are getting your cm & mm all fouled up & I'm a Yankee in the U.S. which means I have to convert what your saying into inches & fractions...so when you foul up cm with mm it really gets confusing on my end.
Thanks Mark! Great stuff! Question, you commented that those bands were way too strong for 3/8" steel, do you have a way of calculating the band taper for a particular weight projectile or is it just a matter of trial and error? How do you approach choosing your band width and taper? As kids we made our (innertube) bands as strong as we could draw and then learned what sized rocks worked best. I have progressed since my first childhood ...my slingshots are still homemade from natural forks but I'm using tapered latex bands and steel ammo now. :)
Well I used to have a chart somewhere that precise had of reccomrded ammo to band thickness. I seem to have lost it. But in this video I think I used .65 precise. I used to make bands 25-15 and they sent 9.5 screaming through the air. I think the bands in this video were 30-20 lol just too much elastic. I probably could have shot a brick with those. Overpowering your bands won't necessarily make them faster but it acts like dry firing them and they won't last.
@@ATOMark OK, thanks for the quick reply! Got to thinking after posting my question that with the variety of bands (regular, cold weather) and thicknesses and tapers and draw lenghts that it would probably be necessary to try a couple of band sets anyway. ...Was just being lazy.
A great tutorial Mark.....u have a great way of explaining things bud👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻I never knew about the prestretch....question for u.....why did the second band not stretch the same as the first???? Also.....what kinda pen is best to write on latex with a very fine line....🤙🏻🤙🏻
I used to use a felt tip pen but it ended up leaking and I haven't replaced it yet. Ball point seems to work well though. As for the stretch I usually stretch them at the same time. It is possible that I stretched one more than the other. But if you are going to do a pre stretch do them both at the same time.
My roller cutter wont cut in one smooth cut and leaves nicks in the edge is this my roller cutter or is it because the straight edge im using is a steel ruler and its catching on it or something?
Ya im pretty sure your blade is worn out and needs to be changed. If you catch the metal edge from time to time it can put rolls in the knife and cause these problems. It can be dangerous though. Those funny nicks can cause early wear and odd breaks in your band. Might be good to switch to a plastic ruler and change up that blade.
@@ATOMark ok thanks ill get a thicker plastic ruler and change the blade. Iv noticed sometimes it catches on the edge of the roll cutter so the roll cutter might just be detective ill get a new one if that Dosent help. Cheers
It depends on how I set them up. If I am looking for max performance I get from 200-300 shots if I set them up where max speed isn't important I can get near the 1000 shot mark.
One time I made a band set that was completely inconsistent and always shooting left. I couldn't figure it out at all. I put a new identical set on and the problem went away. Not sure if it was the bands or me but sometimes when shooting is tuff any change can reset your game and get you back on track.
Nice tutorial, but one thing bothers me. Now one side of Your bands is straight and other one is not. Do You tie those now so, that straight side is same way on both sides. Both straight sides in or both out ? Not affecting to Your accuracy anyhow I think, but I'm just interested.
You know I thought the same thing but I don't see any difference at all. I used to throw them out I put one on top of each other they are even except for the very ends. They will be tied to the frame and pouch. All the active band length are the same. Now I don't worry about it. I just slap them on. Most of the time I use templates these days and you don't get the straight edge with them. Maybe there is but I cant see it.
Because I cut the first band off the sheet. One side of the first band was flat and the other was tapered the second band was tapered both sides. He was wondering if it caused an issue with accuracy. I mentioned that I dont believe it does because if you put the 2 bands on top of eachother they are the same dimensions accept at the very ends where the bands attach to the frame. Which is non active band length. All the active band length is even in size.
“Be gentle with it, your pushing a whole bunch of rubber through a small hole” lmao that made my day 😂
Hey brother! A lot of great info! You are a great Sensei. Thanks for sharing!
Lol thanks brother stay safe out there.
I've been buying buying premade band sets but just made my own with the help of this video, this should save me some money in the long run, also I just clamp my bands on to my scout but have just tied a set on with your help and it works just fine, useful skill to know and I may eventually give making my own fork a go.
Thanks for taking the time to do this tutorial, very clear and easy to follow 👍
Hey thanks man. I prefer clips to wrap and tuck. However the clips on the torque aren't as good as the scout lt. I am glad the video helped you out man. You can save lots of money making your own bands.
Thank you!! God bless! I'm very new to this and knew nothing. Now I know where to start and what to do. Priceless!
Phenomenal wrap and tuck👍thank you.Set up looks ready for a soup 🍜 can😊
Really nice video , love it thanks for sharing .
Thanks man. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Stay safe.
GREAT STUFF,,,,,
Thanks man.
Thanks for this.
Thank you for the time and effort you put in this! Very good info
Thanks man.
Another great and informative vid, keep them coming.
Thanks buddy stay safe
Thanks much, I always enjoy your videos. I thought I'd share a recent safety discovery. I've been making frames from quality 3/4 inch fir board and haven't had any problems. Hundreds of shots through each of them. I recently got some spruce in the same dimensions. It is too weak for a slingshot!!!!! I just had a spruce frame snap in two while I was drawing, right between the forks. Thankfully I always pre draw before bringing it near my face, or I would have caught the fork tip in the teeth. For anyone considering making their own, choose you materials carefully. Have a great day everyone!
Very good tip. I only use hard woods for frames and haven't tried any soft woods. I wish they were good.....it would be alot less work.
@@ATOMark Even with fir I'm very choosy. The stuff I've been using is finishing grade board for molding, baseboards etc. The grain is much tighter than typical lumber grade stuff. Hardwoods are difficult to find where I live (Outside Vancouver). I've made quite a few V frames that shoot well. Taper two equal length sticks. Bind them together with scrap rubber, tap a wedge between them to resist the rubber and push the forks apart. Adjust it to make it even and then bind it again tightly and vertically to hold the wedge in place. I've used both broom stick and rattan. If you file the appropriate area flat you can shoot with a thumb supported grip. Otherwise they're pinch grip which I find affects my accuracy.
really good video, very helpful and really enjoyable im going to do what you do!
Great informative video thanks 🙏
Thanks my friend . Stay safe.
You too 👍
Nice one Viicar!
Thanks brother
Good tutorial Mark, thanks!
Thanks buddy. Stay safe
excellente vídeo tres instructive
merci je suis heureux que vous l'ayez trouvé utile. reste en sécurité mon ami
Excellent video! You helped me realize I was using the universal taper tool all wrong! If you’re ever in Maine we should have a shoot out!
Oh cool you are not too far away. I love Maine. I used to vacation at York Beach and Old Orchard. I haven't been there in years though.
@@ATOMark Yeah! I'm right there in Biddeford! I'm working with another fellow to try and get a Maine Slingshot Club or something going on. Freakin' love this hobby!
@@kd7gxfsmd me too. I hope when things get a little better I can start club up here in Canada. Possibly host some tournaments. Could be fun.
Very nice video... 👍👍
Thanks buddy
Cool vid Mark 😮 You can just use a bit of the Amber belt lnsted og a thread. When you wrap&tuck. Wayne Martin showed me that😊. Love your channel! Cheers, Sis ❤
I am not a fan of amber belt. Much prefer the constrictor knot. Or Cristal string. But that's just me.
really cool tutorial, thks a milllion!
I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Good tutorial 👍.
Thanks man.
Love the videos my guy. I love my torque
I know there are a bunch of these out there but with a foot of snow falling I figured it would be a good time to show a complete step by step band build. Hope you enjoy.
Great video and information Mark! I just recently started making my own bands and this was a great help! Thank you
My pleasure buddy. Just don't get caught in the trap maxing out your bands all the time. Try to add a little bit and your bands will last a lot longer.
@@ATOMark I hear that. I’ve been adding some to my bands for longevity of the bands and it also makes them more comfortable to shot. I’m only target shooting for now anyway but I did max a couple of bands for fun to see what they would do. They shot fast but didn’t last long at all. I plan on getting my chronograph out and start a log book to keep a record of my different band cuts and performance.
Such as latex manufacturer, type of latex, longevity, speed and so on.
Good idea to keep a record. Once you dial in a band set you can reproduce the magic over and over.
👍👍👍
....Great vid!! They are called arterial forceps, or hemostats, by the way, & you can get em at your fishing tackle shop!!!
Yup thats where I got mine.
For mine from ebay. 😀
Hey, Mark - you ever post a vid of you firing those bands?
No not yet but I still have them. Too much snow. I will do it when I can really blow some stuff up. Should be fun.
Great information pal 👍
Anyway precise 0.65 band
what taper would you recommend for 8mm steel?
20-or even 18-12
Love the vids, keep”em” coming.. One question, where’s the best and fastest to order band templates from??
Thanks in advanced...
Where are you located? I have ordered templates from only 2 places aliexpress (both arrived broken ) and slingshooting.com (great quality and well packed) I will order all my templates from them as you can make custom setups and they make them to order. Shipping is a little long though. 3-4 weeks
GZK china..
What is the best brand of band material and where do you get it?
There is no best elastic. Really it comes down to the shooter. I like gong chi .5 ( cattyshack.co.uk) snipersling yellow .5 (snipersling.com) South wales catties .55
Hi haw are you
Please can you let me what is the best ruber bands for a real hunting
Thanks ❤❤
Hello, I am from Colombia South America, Great videos. Where you can buy the templates to cut the Bands? Best regards
I bought all mine from slingshooting.com the first one I ever bought was from aliexpress and it arrived broken
Some may think this is a crazy question but I am gonna ask anyway because I have not heard it mentioned on any of the band tying videos anywhere. So you have a straight edge and a tapered edge on your band, it’s important to keep the straight edge so it is on top when it is drawn back, is that correct or you should just know that
Personally I don't worry about that at all. Both exact bands have the same amount of elastic . Dimensions and weight. I have found absolutly no difference top, bottom, inside ot out. "The only bad question is one you didn't solve!"
Ato
Thank you for the clarification
Helllloooooo out there.You are doing a great job but you need to slow it down because you are going so fast you are getting your cm & mm all fouled up & I'm a Yankee in the U.S. which means I have to convert what your saying into inches & fractions...so when you foul up cm with mm it really gets confusing on my end.
My apologies brother. I will try to stick to one of them in the future. Here in Canada we learn and use both........ its a mess lol
Thanks Mark! Great stuff! Question, you commented that those bands were way too strong for 3/8" steel, do you have a way of calculating the band taper for a particular weight projectile or is it just a matter of trial and error? How do you approach choosing your band width and taper? As kids we made our (innertube) bands as strong as we could draw and then learned what sized rocks worked best. I have progressed since my first childhood ...my slingshots are still homemade from natural forks but I'm using tapered latex bands and steel ammo now. :)
Well I used to have a chart somewhere that precise had of reccomrded ammo to band thickness. I seem to have lost it. But in this video I think I used .65 precise. I used to make bands 25-15 and they sent 9.5 screaming through the air. I think the bands in this video were 30-20 lol just too much elastic. I probably could have shot a brick with those. Overpowering your bands won't necessarily make them faster but it acts like dry firing them and they won't last.
@@ATOMark OK, thanks for the quick reply! Got to thinking after posting my question that with the variety of bands (regular, cold weather) and thicknesses and tapers and draw lenghts that it would probably be necessary to try a couple of band sets anyway. ...Was just being lazy.
What size rotary cutter fella? 45 or 60?
I got a 60. I originally bought a 45 but it didn't work with some Jigs
A great tutorial Mark.....u have a great way of explaining things bud👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻I never knew about the prestretch....question for u.....why did the second band not stretch the same as the first????
Also.....what kinda pen is best to write on latex with a very fine line....🤙🏻🤙🏻
I used to use a felt tip pen but it ended up leaking and I haven't replaced it yet. Ball point seems to work well though. As for the stretch I usually stretch them at the same time. It is possible that I stretched one more than the other. But if you are going to do a pre stretch do them both at the same time.
How did the 20-30 shoot
It was stupid. Really heavy for less speed.
My roller cutter wont cut in one smooth cut and leaves nicks in the edge is this my roller cutter or is it because the straight edge im using is a steel ruler and its catching on it or something?
Ya im pretty sure your blade is worn out and needs to be changed. If you catch the metal edge from time to time it can put rolls in the knife and cause these problems. It can be dangerous though. Those funny nicks can cause early wear and odd breaks in your band. Might be good to switch to a plastic ruler and change up that blade.
@@ATOMark ok thanks ill get a thicker plastic ruler and change the blade. Iv noticed sometimes it catches on the edge of the roll cutter so the roll cutter might just be detective ill get a new one if that Dosent help. Cheers
How many days do you generally get out of one set of bands?
It depends on how I set them up. If I am looking for max performance I get from 200-300 shots if I set them up where max speed isn't important I can get near the 1000 shot mark.
What type of band material and thickness?
His was precise .65
Hi mark
Doing everything the same Do you sometimes have a band that will shoot way too the right or left Headrekers.
One time I made a band set that was completely inconsistent and always shooting left. I couldn't figure it out at all. I put a new identical set on and the problem went away. Not sure if it was the bands or me but sometimes when shooting is tuff any change can reset your game and get you back on track.
Nice tutorial, but one thing bothers me. Now one side of Your bands is straight and other one is not. Do You tie those now so, that straight side is same way on both sides. Both straight sides in or both out ?
Not affecting to Your accuracy anyhow I think, but I'm just interested.
You know I thought the same thing but I don't see any difference at all. I used to throw them out I put one on top of each other they are even except for the very ends. They will be tied to the frame and pouch. All the active band length are the same. Now I don't worry about it. I just slap them on. Most of the time I use templates these days and you don't get the straight edge with them. Maybe there is but I cant see it.
Only one will have a straight side
@@ATOMark bud....I don't understand the question our friend asked....and I don't understand the answer either🤔🧐🤔.....can u expand please?
Because I cut the first band off the sheet. One side of the first band was flat and the other was tapered the second band was tapered both sides. He was wondering if it caused an issue with accuracy. I mentioned that I dont believe it does because if you put the 2 bands on top of eachother they are the same dimensions accept at the very ends where the bands attach to the frame. Which is non active band length. All the active band length is even in size.
@@ATOMark got it bud🤙🤙..thanks for clarifying that.....great tip width on the torque...does the handle feel nice and chunky????
That's a bad ass blacked out SWATCH you have on your wrist buddy