Thank you! one more question, how do you find out the part number? Do you have a list of part numbers, what did you change. I have the same W460 and I need to replace everything the same! Please 🙏
@@ShamilIandarbaev sorry I don’t, I just used the model number on there site and many others, if your not sure send them an email, there more than happy to help
hi Scotty, at 13:24 i noticed you tightening the driveshaft nuts with a hammer and screwdriver. I thought these were supposed to be like 200nm torque? Did you tighten them after?
@@Scotty66 sorry i watched that part again, is it the earlier G that applies too? the 463 states its 180 - 200 nm. with .01 play via a dial indicator. Both seem to be tapered bearings. I am buttoning up a w463 front end and I don't want to wreck these bearings. Also thanks for making such a detailed and well documented G restore/build it is really awesome to see so much of a build a to z.
@@bentickner1 Hi Yes they are taper bearings so any pressure would destroy them, I set them up by feel, absolute minimum play but must have play to not destroy them, the locking tabs keep the lock nuts on place ( me using a hammer and screwdriver is to bend over the locking plates) If they were torqued even to 50 they would crush and not move. I’m not a GWagon expert, this was the first one I have restored ( have done another one since) All Mercedes in general I have worked on use taper bearings on the front and don’t have a torque setting. But please check for yourself, hope this helps
@@Scotty66 i think you are a gwagon expert. it seems the 180-200 is the torque applies to the outer nut to lock it to the inner nut so you are definitely correct about the bearings being good following your method.. This is why I asked. Thank you so much for all your help and guidance.
Commentary is good - just wondering why you didn't use the special wrench for the outer lock nut or just make one from a hardened socket. Makes life a lot easier as it should still be torqued down to what MB say then ease back off by about 90 degrees. That way you will never over tighten and have early failure of the bearings. Also where did you get the bushings from? I am up for changing mine out on the 230GE SWB
Thanks for the update.
Commentary is better than subtitles
A definite improvement mate. Really enjoyed it.
Awesome man this is great. I just bought a w460 so this is an excellent way to get familiar with it
¡👋🏼hi Scottie…Liking your work!
Top video Scotty. Commentary better 👍
yes i much prefer commentary
What parts and manufacturer did you use when fix axle? Could you please send all list?
kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/2-startseite?q=model-MB+W460%5C/+W461
Thank you! one more question, how do you find out the part number? Do you have a list of part numbers, what did you change. I have the same W460 and I need to replace everything the same! Please 🙏
@@ShamilIandarbaev sorry I don’t, I just used the model number on there site and many others, if your not sure send them an email, there more than happy to help
hi Scotty, at 13:24 i noticed you tightening the driveshaft nuts with a hammer and screwdriver. I thought these were supposed to be like 200nm torque? Did you tighten them after?
Watch again and listen
@@Scotty66 sorry i watched that part again, is it the earlier G that applies too? the 463 states its 180 - 200 nm. with .01 play via a dial indicator. Both seem to be tapered bearings. I am buttoning up a w463 front end and I don't want to wreck these bearings. Also thanks for making such a detailed and well documented G restore/build it is really awesome to see so much of a build a to z.
@@bentickner1 Hi
Yes they are taper bearings so any pressure would destroy them, I set them up by feel, absolute minimum play but must have play to not destroy them, the locking tabs keep the lock nuts on place ( me using a hammer and screwdriver is to bend over the locking plates)
If they were torqued even to 50 they would crush and not move.
I’m not a GWagon expert, this was the first one I have restored ( have done another one since)
All Mercedes in general I have worked on use taper bearings on the front and don’t have a torque setting. But please check for yourself, hope this helps
@@Scotty66 i think you are a gwagon expert. it seems the 180-200 is the torque applies to the outer nut to lock it to the inner nut so you are definitely correct about the bearings being good following your method.. This is why I asked. Thank you so much for all your help and guidance.
Ahh ok yes that makes sense to torque the outer nut once the inner locked, yes the outer nuts were tightened then locked.
Commentary is good - just wondering why you didn't use the special wrench for the outer lock nut or just make one from a hardened socket. Makes life a lot easier as it should still be torqued down to what MB say then ease back off by about 90 degrees. That way you will never over tighten and have early failure of the bearings. Also where did you get the bushings from? I am up for changing mine out on the 230GE SWB
kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/2-startseite?q=model-MB+W460%5C/+W461
Hi, can you say what kind of bushes and if possible link for them, thanks 👍
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265258624212?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bFyZicElSOa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jIrj_TmlSVq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY