Great video, I have a 7x7 and I having issues finding the NOA, the city is asking for the permit and one of the request to fill the form is the NOA, Suncast only has the assembly manual, if you have the NOA please help me on how I can find it 😊
I don't know what the NOA is for this shed. I charged it on my credit card. So I think you can just provide a receipt stating you paid for it. That should suffice as an NOA. I am not 100% sure on that but that is my best guess.
I just assembled my modernist 7x8 shed. Had the same problem in the back left corner. The sun warped the roof panel. I stopped building and waited until the next morning before the sun hit the shed. Everything seemed to line up then. Also I removed the big plastic screws in the left rear panel until the roof was in place. I took one more step not in the instructions by adding a vinyl coated cable thru the main roof support across from left to right and anchored it to the treated wood platform to help strengthen the structure in high winds. Im not sure I completely trust 3/8” screws to keep it grounded. Go over the bolts at the ends so it doesnt stress the plastic walls.
I was wondering the same thing. That's one of the reasons I put my shed under this big tree. I thought having it in the shade would not only keep it cooler but it would protect it from the sun.
I built the 8x7 version of that, and I had the exact problems with the roof. For me, the roof wouldn’t line up because the plastic was bent. Had to hit it really hard with a mallet to get the left roof to line up. Even after lining it up perfect there were still small gaps in the ceiling, which I ended up fixing with black spray foam.
Thanks for the info! I got the roof panels to line up really good but one of my corners is off a little bit. I was thinking of trying some of the spray foam. I didn't know they had black spray foam though. I will have to check it out.
Did you only use one level of pavers? And what size pavers? I have this project sitting outside and I'm currently trying to figure out if pouring concrete, pavers, or a wood frame would be cheaper.
I am making a video about the shed base. This is what I ended up doing. I leveled the shed area and then I put down a layer of gravel and then a layer of sand before I put down the pavers. I put concrete around the edges of the pavers to lock them into place. It took a lot of gravel and sand though. I got the big contractor bags. I think they weigh 5 or 6 hundred pounds each. I had them put it in my truck with a forklift. It took a few trips too and I have a 3/4 ton truck. You can get it delivered though. A concrete slab would be best but that will cost more and take more time. The wood frame would be the next best but you will need to level the area and put gravel under the wood frame or use concrete block footings. My concern with the wood is that it wouldn't last as long. The pavers are a good compromise but the problem with pavers is that you need to anchor the shed to the base and it will be a little more challenging to screw the bolts into the pavers. I used 12 inch pavers. They are easier to work with but the bigger pavers would give you a bigger area to screw bolts into the pavers.
Any problems with the two black tracks for the barn door? I got one in, but the other one is about a half inch longer than the edge of the indented channel area it is supposed to fit into. And the four holes the black bolts go into don’t line up? I can drill new holes but l’m still going to have one edge of the tail slightly over the edge of the channel.
I put a few pieced on backwards and had some issues getting them to line up. Check the metal frame pieces on the other side of the header and make sure they are on right before you drill out the holes.
@@ThatHobby Thanks. Yes I actually did have the same problem with the metal frame pieces (3 of them) lining up on the backside as well. So one of them is over the lip on the end. The 2 header pieces are flush, it just seems the channel where the frame goes is also a little short on that side as well. The 2 header pieces are flat and not bent so not sure what the issue is. I have measured the frame pieces to make sure they are the right ones and obviously only 2 black tracks I know are correct. I’ll keep working on it. Thanks for the reply
That part was pretty challenging for me too. Some how the metal frame was a little off and wasn't lining up with the grooves in the back wall panels. Once I adjusted the frame I was able to get it to fit a little better. There are also 2 groves in the front header that have to line up with the metal roof frame too.
I had to get some help putting on the header. It was a little tricky to get it to slide into place. My wife used a step ladder to get on the other side and hold it in place while I pulled it down into the groves.
I haven't decided what I want to do yet. I have a paver base with gravel under it. So a bunch of masonry screws will keep it from moving around but I was also thinking of drilling a few bigger holes in the pavers and putting some longer anchors in there with some concreate epoxy. I will make some update videos about the base and the anchors.
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Thank you for the advice. Using a dumbbell to hold the roof down did the trick for me.
Glad it helped! Yeah some parts line up just fine but I had to put some weight on the back corner to get it lined up enough to screw it in.
how heavy was dumbbell
Thank you so much for video,make my jobs (install) easy 👍👍
Glad to hear that
Great video, I have a 7x7 and I having issues finding the NOA, the city is asking for the permit and one of the request to fill the form is the NOA, Suncast only has the assembly manual, if you have the NOA please help me on how I can find it 😊
I don't know what the NOA is for this shed. I charged it on my credit card. So I think you can just provide a receipt stating you paid for it. That should suffice as an NOA. I am not 100% sure on that but that is my best guess.
I just assembled my modernist 7x8 shed. Had the same problem in the back left corner. The sun warped the roof panel. I stopped building and waited until the next morning before the sun hit the shed. Everything seemed to line up then. Also I removed the big plastic screws in the left rear panel until the roof was in place.
I took one more step not in the instructions by adding a vinyl coated cable thru the main roof support across from left to right and anchored it to the treated wood platform to help strengthen the structure in high winds. Im not sure I completely trust 3/8” screws to keep it grounded. Go over the bolts at the ends so it doesnt stress the plastic walls.
That's good advice. Thanks
Wow! Thank you Sir! You did a great job! Happy Wife… Happy Life ❤️
So nice of you
Good looking sheds, I would like to see a review video of the quality in a few years, I just bought mine.
I was wondering the same thing. That's one of the reasons I put my shed under this big tree. I thought having it in the shade would not only keep it cooler but it would protect it from the sun.
I built the 8x7 version of that, and I had the exact problems with the roof. For me, the roof wouldn’t line up because the plastic was bent. Had to hit it really hard with a mallet to get the left roof to line up.
Even after lining it up perfect there were still small gaps in the ceiling, which I ended up fixing with black spray foam.
Thanks for the info! I got the roof panels to line up really good but one of my corners is off a little bit. I was thinking of trying some of the spray foam. I didn't know they had black spray foam though. I will have to check it out.
Did you only use one level of pavers? And what size pavers? I have this project sitting outside and I'm currently trying to figure out if pouring concrete, pavers, or a wood frame would be cheaper.
I am making a video about the shed base. This is what I ended up doing. I leveled the shed area and then I put down a layer of gravel and then a layer of sand before I put down the pavers. I put concrete around the edges of the pavers to lock them into place. It took a lot of gravel and sand though. I got the big contractor bags. I think they weigh 5 or 6 hundred pounds each. I had them put it in my truck with a forklift. It took a few trips too and I have a 3/4 ton truck. You can get it delivered though. A concrete slab would be best but that will cost more and take more time. The wood frame would be the next best but you will need to level the area and put gravel under the wood frame or use concrete block footings. My concern with the wood is that it wouldn't last as long. The pavers are a good compromise but the problem with pavers is that you need to anchor the shed to the base and it will be a little more challenging to screw the bolts into the pavers. I used 12 inch pavers. They are easier to work with but the bigger pavers would give you a bigger area to screw bolts into the pavers.
How wide is hte opening for the door?
Any problems with the two black tracks for the barn door? I got one in, but the other one is about a half inch longer than the edge of the indented channel area it is supposed to fit into. And the four holes the black bolts go into don’t line up? I can drill new holes but l’m still going to have one edge of the tail slightly over the edge of the channel.
I put a few pieced on backwards and had some issues getting them to line up. Check the metal frame pieces on the other side of the header and make sure they are on right before you drill out the holes.
@@ThatHobby
Thanks. Yes I actually did have the same problem with the metal frame pieces (3 of them) lining up on the backside as well. So one of them is over the lip on the end. The 2 header pieces are flush, it just seems the channel where the frame goes is also a little short on that side as well. The 2 header pieces are flat and not bent so not sure what the issue is. I have measured the frame pieces to make sure they are the right ones and obviously only 2 black tracks I know are correct. I’ll keep working on it. Thanks for the reply
Right there’s not real labels. All the boxes and bags don’t have matching lettering so confusing.
Thank you for your video
Thanks for watching! Yeah I got a little confused in a few parts. I am really glad I built it though. I am so glad to have a nice shed in my backyard.
@@ThatHobby we are halfway through it that’s why needed your video….slow and steady. Sure we will love it too.
Im having roof issues as well and can’t seem to align it.
That part was pretty challenging for me too. Some how the metal frame was a little off and wasn't lining up with the grooves in the back wall panels. Once I adjusted the frame I was able to get it to fit a little better. There are also 2 groves in the front header that have to line up with the metal roof frame too.
Think I might have to remove a lot of the metal from the front header . It’s heavy to lift by my self and I short
I had to get some help putting on the header. It was a little tricky to get it to slide into place. My wife used a step ladder to get on the other side and hold it in place while I pulled it down into the groves.
How did you secure it to the ground?
I haven't decided what I want to do yet. I have a paver base with gravel under it. So a bunch of masonry screws will keep it from moving around but I was also thinking of drilling a few bigger holes in the pavers and putting some longer anchors in there with some concreate epoxy. I will make some update videos about the base and the anchors.
@@ThatHobbythat's where we are at
Always frustrating when you got a million parts... 👍
So true! I am really glad it is all done though. It's pretty nice to have a big shed like this.